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10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear

02 May

The post 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeb Buchman.

What’s the best landscape photography gear? What gear do you need to take stunning landscape photos?

In this article, I share with you my 10 most essential gear items – items that I use all the time in my own landscape photography, and items that I highly recommend you purchase if you’re after the best landscape shots.

So read through this list. And ask yourself, “What am I missing?”

Then, if you can, take a trip to the (online) camera store!

Let’s get started.

1. The internet

Whenever I plan a landscape photography photoshoot, I usually begin by googling the area. If it’s a relatively well-known location, you will probably find some very interesting, comprehensive websites made by other photographers or adventurers/bloggers.

The problem is that if it’s a famous location, you will also get a ton of not-so-interesting (and even incorrect) information, as well. Going through Google results to separate the helpful and high-quality blogs or websites from the crummy ones is an art form. But with a little practice, reading a few sentences of a blog will clue you in as to whether or not the information you’ve found is worth considering.

If you can’t find two or three really good blogs about your location, head over to AllTrails. It has a sizeable database of locations that have been hiked, including user reviews of the location and the level of difficulty. If you’re planning to photograph a famous site, Tripadvisor has a good database of information, including nearby places to stay.

With blogs, AllTrails, and/or Tripadvisor, you’ll be off and running (probably with more information than you need). In most cases, the tricky part is searching through everything you find and turning it into an overall plan of action.

2. A strong backpack

When it comes to landscape photography gear, a backpack is absolutely essential – and it’s not a good place to go cheap. You get what you pay for, and it’s very important you use a strong, water-resistant bag, one with reinforced padding.

Do yourself a favor and invest in a high-quality bag, like the Lowepro Pro Trekker. It will take care of your camera and lenses, and it will last you many years.

essential landscape photography gear waterfall

3. A weather-sealed camera

Eventually, you’re going to drop a camera. It happens to the best of us (at least, that’s what everyone told me the first time I dropped a camera!), especially those of us who shoot in less-than-perfect weather conditions.

So make sure you purchase a camera made from durable materials – go for a metal alloy body instead of a plasticky, entry-level camera. My first full-frame DSLR was the Nikon D700, and that camera could survive being run over by a small truck. A perfect companion for the clumsy beginner that I was back then.

Also consider investing in a quality raincoat for your lens/camera. I don’t recommend getting one of the cheap, flimsy, clear plastic covers made from recycled sandwich bags; they will tear easily and won’t stay put in windy conditions. Instead, get a cover that is heavy duty because one good coat will last a long time, and they aren’t too pricey.

4. A sturdy tripod

A tripod is an item you don’t want to mess around with. In fact, this is the one item more than any other that I would recommend you consider really splurging on.

Why? A tripod is designed to keep your camera steady, to handle poor footing out in the muddy, rocky, sandy wilderness, and to protect your camera setup from sudden falls. This requires ultra-solid construction – which doesn’t come cheap.

Plus, a flimsy tripod could end up costing you a chunk of cash in repair bills. It only takes one good gust of wind to knock over an unstable tripod. If you buy a nice camera and lens but mount it on an entry-level tripod, it’s like putting old, worn tires on a Ferrari. The car won’t run properly, and it’s dangerous for the rest of the setup.

A good tripod will outlive the rest of your kit, so it’s rare you’ll need to invest in more than one over the course of many years. Spending a few extra bucks goes a long way toward having a more stable, secure setup.

To find an excellent tripod, check out Really Right Stuff, Manfrotto, Gitzo, and Feisol. In my opinion, you should strongly consider carbon fiber tripods over aluminum; they’re lightweight, and they’re also ridiculously strong.

5. Lenses

Lenses are where the fun begins and your wallet ends.

See, lenses are the single most important piece of landscape photography equipment you can buy. You can have the finest camera, tripod, backpack, memory cards, and accessories available – but if you don’t have quality glass, you’ll seriously struggle to take a great photograph.

I typically prefer to shoot with prime lenses as opposed to zoom lenses. Why? Because I want to get as intimate with the scene as possible. With zoom lenses, I tend to get a bit lazy and shoot without adequately working the scene. There is no substitute for moving your feet and seeing the composition with your own eyes rather than through the viewfinder. This special perspective is lost if you zoom instead of walking around and considering the scene.

That said, lens choice is pretty subjective. I know plenty of photographers who prefer using zoom lenses; that’s great, and most of the time, the best gear for you is the gear you’re most comfortable with.

But here’s my suggestion: Before buying any lens, prime or zoom, rent it first. Because you can’t know how the lens will work for you until you use it in various situations.

6. A reliable remote trigger or shutter release

Remote triggers are often overlooked by landscape photographers. But I firmly believe that a remote trigger makes a big difference.

Without a remote, you have to physically press the shutter button on top of the camera, and no matter how careful you are, and no matter how securely fastened the camera is to the tripod, this will introduce some shake.

So if you want a tack-sharp image, don’t let anything touch the camera. Get your setup as steady as a concrete slab.

Instead of pressing the shutter button with your finger, invest in a reliable remote shutter release. They aren’t expensive, and they can go a long way toward keeping your photos sharp.

7. Filters

In landscape photography, some filters are almost as essential as good lenses. I’ll keep it brief here and stick with just a few basic filters I always travel with.

A circular polarizer

A polarizing filter helps mitigate the nasty, harsh reflections of the sun off shiny objects such as water and wet rocks. Using a circular polarizer is easy; you simply turn the filter until you see the glare disappear.

A polarizer will also help darken the sky and make it a deeper, richer blue. Some people like that look, and some don’t. I use a polarizer practically all the time when shooting in daylight.

A neutral density filter

An ND filter basically acts as sunglasses for your lens: it blocks some light from reaching the camera’s sensor, thereby slowing down the exposure.

For example, a 3-stop ND filter allows through three stops less light than you’d get without the filter attached. A 5-stop ND filter will allow five stops less light, and so on.

For the serious landscape photographer, I’d recommend carrying a 2-stop, 3-stop, and 10-stop ND filter. If you want to do some long exposure waterscape work, the 10-stop filter will help make the water silky smooth. You can also stretch out clouds or turn people into invisible ghosts with ND filters.

A graduated neutral density filter

GND filters are similar to ND filters, but only the upper portion of the filter is darkened. And the darkening effect is gradual, starting strong at the top and getting darker as you move toward the middle:

When would you need a GND filter?

Generally, in sunrise and sunset situations when the sky is brighter than your foreground. You can use a graduated neutral density filter to darken the horizon while keeping the foreground nice and bright.

In other words, a GND filter balances the light from the brighter horizon and the darker foreground.

A reverse graduated neutral density filter

A reverse GND filter is like a standard GND, except the tint gets darker as you move from the outer edge of the glass toward the middle.

When would you use a reverse GND filter? They’re great for shooting sunrises and sunsets where the horizon line is the brightest area of the frame and the sky gets progressively darker as you move upward.

A UV or clear filter

I want to do everything I can to protect my lenses from wear and tear.

So I always have a clear or UV filter on the front of every lens I own.

This does nothing to help improve the photograph, but it does a great job protecting the front lens element from dirt and dust, or from me walking into a door lens-first, which has happened more times than I prefer to admit.

essential landscape photography gear waterfall with rainbow

8. Extra batteries and memory cards

Always, without exception, carry an extra battery for your camera, an extra memory card, and extra batteries for other battery-powered devices.

If you’re bringing along a flash that takes four batteries, take an extra set of four with you. Chances are you won’t need them – but there will always be the one time when you do want them and wish you had thought to pack them.

9. The Photographer’s Ephemeris

The Photographer’s Ephemeris is a clever app that accurately details when and where the sun and moon will rise and set.

If you’re out chasing sunsets and sunrises for photographs, this app is a must-have.

10. A good pair of shoes

No joke. For landscape photographers, having a comfortable pair of shoes is like having good vision. If your feet aren’t comfy, then nothing else matters; you will not be as good a photographer as you would be with comfy feet.

This especially holds true on longer hikes, so invest in a good pair of hiking boots. Make sure the boots strike a balance between breathing well and offering some water resistance.

Essential landscape photography gear: conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the best landscape photography gear – and you’re hopefully ready to take a few stunning landscape photos of your own!

So buy the gear you need. Then get out, have fun, and start shooting!

What do you view as essential landscape photography gear? What gear do you always take with you when shooting landscapes? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeb Buchman.

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8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings

29 Apr

The post 8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Many people have attempted to capture a picture of the bright ball of light that governs the night sky, but getting your moon photography settings just right can be quite tricky. It’s easy to get frustrated when taking photos of the moon, especially when so many moon shots online look crisp and clear.

Fortunately, capturing great moon shots isn’t too difficult once you wrap your head around a few basic elements. With a little patience and practice, you’ll be taking excellent photos of the moon in no time at all!

Moon photography settings: the basics

The first thing to know about shooting the moon is that it’s deceptively bright. You might not think of this giant ball of rock as particularly luminous when compared to the sun, but it puts out way more light than you might think. This makes it tricky to calculate exposure and get your other moon photography settings just right.

The other important item to keep in mind is that the moon is not a slow celestial body. In Greek mythology, Selene, the goddess of the moon, speeds across the night sky in a glowing chariot. Our ancient ancestors knew what they were talking about! If you take a picture of the moon, you have to keep its constant movement in mind; otherwise, you’ll never get a great shot.

Moon Photography Settings Moon Behind Trees — Nikon D7100 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/8 | 1/180s | ISO 640

The final part of the equation to remember is that the moon, while relatively close in a galactic sense, is pretty far away when you look at it from the perspective of a photographer. If you want a good picture of the moon, you need at least a 200mm lens – and even then, it’s best to use a crop-sensor camera for a bit more reach. So a focal length of 300mm or greater is recommended, and photographing the moon is one time when megapixels really do matter. Unless you have a very long zoom lens, you’ll be cropping your images quite a bit.

If you want a simple answer to the question of what moon photography settings to use, here’s my advice:

Shoot with a fast shutter speed of at least 1/180s.
Use a small aperture like f/8.
Keep your ISO low – so that when you crop, your picture will remain clean and not noisy.
Use a telephoto lens.
Always shoot in RAW; that way, you have plenty of room to edit the colors, sharpness, and other elements of your photo afterward.

Moon Photography Settings Clouds and Foreground Trees — Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4.8 | 1/200s | ISO 640

While the above advice is a good starting point, you will need to experiment and figure out which settings are right for you. It’s a good idea to dive a little deeper into aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to find out what effect they have on your moon photos so you can get the shots you’re aiming for.

Now let’s take a closer look at the best moon photography settings:

1. Use Manual mode

This might be intimidating if you’re used to letting your camera make exposure decisions for you, but moon photography is a great way to learn Manual mode.

Your camera knows what to do in most well-lit situations, but shooting the moon isn’t one of them. You have to take control, and Manual mode lets you choose the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – all of which are critical to getting good pictures of the moon. You must be very specific about your exposure settings, and Manual mode lets you dial in the precise values you need.

Crescent Moon with Trees in Foreground — Dim morning light meant I had a bit more freedom to adjust my exposure settings, which was very easy to do in Manual mode.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/180s | ISO 200

2. Shoot in RAW

You have enough to worry about when taking pictures of the moon: exposure settings, weather concerns, cloud cover, foreground obstructions…and that’s just the beginning.

Setting the right white balance and making sure your highlights and shadows are perfectly captured is almost impossible to do in the moment. Thankfully, RAW can save the day.

Crescent moon Unprocessed RAW — This is the unprocessed RAW file straight out of my camera.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/180s | ISO 200

Shooting in RAW gives you ultimate flexibility when editing your moon photos in a program such as Lightroom. You can adjust the exposure, tweak the sharpening, bring out details you might have missed, and of course, adjust the white balance to your heart’s content.

The JPEG format is fine for many photographic situations, but not moon photography. For best results, use RAW.

Crescent moon processed RAW — The exact same image as above, but after the RAW file was processed in Lightroom. Adjustments include white balance, boosted exposure, and tweaks to the highlights/shadows.

3. Use a fast shutter speed

Shutter speed is a good place to start when thinking about moon photography settings because of how fast the moon moves across the sky. Similar to sports photography, you’ll need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

1/180s is a good starting point, but if you can go higher without increasing your ISO, I recommend doing so. 1/250s is good and so is 1/300s (go beyond that, and you start to get diminishing returns).

full moon — My 1/10s shutter speed was much too slow, and the picture is blurry as a result. 1/10s lets in a lot of light, but the moon moves too much to get a crisp, sharp picture at that shutter speed. Compare this to the image at the end of the article, and you will notice a huge difference!

Nikon D200 | Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 | 300mm | f/11 | 1/10s | ISO 200

4. Keep your ISO low

Cameras have come a long way, and what used to be considered a crazy high ISO – like 3200 or 6400 – is now easily achieved without a huge loss in image quality. Things are a bit different when taking photos of the moon, though. Lower ISOs are always preferable, and that holds doubly true for photos of our nearest celestial neighbor.

ISO 100 or 200 is best, but that might not be realistic given the lens you’re using. Generally speaking, you should be fine with ISO 800 or lower, partly because you will get a cleaner image, but also because you will have more leeway when editing your RAW files afterward.

5. Use a small aperture, but not too small

Most lenses have what’s known as a sweet spot, where the image isn’t too soft and chromatic aberration is well-controlled. This sweet spot isn’t usually at the widest or smallest aperture, but somewhere in the middle.

For that reason, I like to take pictures of the full moon at an aperture between f/4 and f/8. However, the optimal aperture will depend on your particular lens and the type of photos you’re taking.

Moon Photography Settings Crescent and Venus — A crescent moon is very dim! Normally, I recommend a smaller aperture, but for this shot, I needed all the light I could get. I used a large aperture of f/2.8 and an unusually slow shutter speed to capture this celestial dance between the moon and Venus.

Nikon D7100 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 180mm | f/2.8 | 1/90s | ISO 100

Honestly, of all the moon photography settings to worry about, I would put aperture at the bottom of my list. Before you consider the aperture, make sure you have a fast shutter speed and the lowest possible ISO. Finally, adjust your aperture until you get a picture you like.

Even if your photos are not tack-sharp because you had to shoot wide open, it’s a trade-off I recommend making. I would rather have a slightly blurry result than a higher ISO setting that will result in noise, especially in the deep blacks of the night sky.

6. Underexpose slightly

It might seem counterintuitive, but when taking pictures of the moon, you don’t want your images to be as bright as possible. I get my best results when underexposing by one stop or more, depending on the situation.

The easiest way to do this is to set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so your light meter indicates a properly exposed picture. Then drop the exposure by one or two stops. The result is a picture without any blown highlights and plenty of room for editing (as long as you make sure to shoot in RAW).

Full Moon with Power Lines in Foreground — My light meter told me this photo was properly exposed – but in the end, the moon was too bright. I should have dropped the exposure to darken the image.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/200s | ISO 360

I also recommend using spot or center-weighted metering when doing moon photography. The moon is extraordinarily bright compared to the dark sky around it, which causes all sorts of confusion for your camera’s light meter. Telling your camera to meter based on one small portion of the scene (i.e. the moon) will help you get a better initial exposure value, one that you can then fine-tune.

7. Get creative

Taking pictures of the moon is enthralling, especially if you have never done it before. But after a few shots of that big bright ball of light in the sky, start thinking of a new approach. Try putting trees, buildings, or other objects between you and the moon. Experiment with taking pictures during the waxing or waning crescent phase.

Moon Photography Settings Lunar Eclipse — Instead of taking one single picture of the moon during a lunar eclipse, I took 20 and combined them in Photoshop. The end result was much more visually interesting than a single shot would’ve been.

Also, try getting shots at dawn or dusk when you can catch the sky in a rich blue or purple. These are simple, fun ways of taking pictures of the moon that can produce some unexpected results.

8. Manually focus to infinity

Your camera’s autofocus might struggle when it comes to getting pictures of the moon, but you can take care of this by adjusting your lens’s focus point manually.

Make sure your lens is focused as far out as it will go (this is often indicated by an infinity symbol on the lens barrel).

Moon photography settings: conclusion

Moon Photography Settings Full Moon — Nikon D200 | Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/250s | ISO 200

There’s no magic or secret sauce when it comes to getting great shots of the moon. The only real trick is to get the right moon photography settings and to keep practicing until you’re happy with the results.

Try some of these tips as a starting point, and then branch out and see what you can come up with. You might be surprised at the pictures you’re able to take!

Moon photography settings FAQ

Can I take a picture of the moon with my phone?

It’s possible, but this is an area where a DSLR or mirrorless camera with full manual controls really has the edge. A mobile phone can’t zoom in very far, and even those that do have optical zoom lack the light-gathering ability required for good moon shots. That’s not to say it can’t be done, but you’ll likely get significantly better results with a dedicated camera.

Do I need an expensive zoom lens to get a picture of the moon?

A zoom lens helps, but it doesn’t have to be expensive. Even a basic 55-250mm kit lens, like the one that might have come with your camera when you bought it, is fine. Just make sure to follow some of the tips in this article, and you can get some good moon pictures.

What white balance setting should I use to get a picture of the moon?

That really depends, and there’s not always a good answer. Some people like to use the Daylight setting because the moon is reflecting the sunlight and has no actual light of its own. Just make sure you shoot in RAW so you can adjust your white balance after you take the picture.

How do I keep both the moon and the foreground in focus?

First, make sure you are using a small aperture like f/8 or f/11, which will give a much wider depth of field. In addition, you need to put a lot of space between you and your foreground objects. If you’re shooting through tree branches in your own backyard, they will always end up far too blurry. Position yourself so the trees, buildings, or other foreground objects are farther away; this will help make sure they are more in focus.

How do I get the moon to look so big? My moon pictures never look like the professional shots I see online.

Many people have asked me this, and it all comes down to your lens. A longer focal length will make the moon appear larger. If you don’t have a long lens, you can rent one for the few days that a bright full moon is visible. Many professional moon pictures are also cropped, and if you use a very high megapixel camera, you have a great deal of freedom to crop without a huge drop in quality.

The post 8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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‘A Year in Photos’ documentary covers winning imagery from Sony World Photography Awards

24 Apr

The annual Sony World Photography Awards is one of the world’s most reputable competitions for creatives. DPReview makes it a point to cover every announcement. Over the course of the past year, over 330,000 images were submitted to its myriad of contests covering contemporary events and issues. A documentary, produced by Chocolate Films, showcasing the winning images, as well as the stories behind them, was recently released.

Hosted by British stand-up comedian and art historian Jacky Klein, who curiously stated that submissions came in from over 200 countries (she possibly meant territories as well), A Year in Photos from Sony World Photography Awards 2021 features imagery, behind-the-scenes takes, and interviews from some of the award-winning photographers. Some of the jurors also share what they love about a particular photographer’s style the most.

Winning imagery addresses how some people believe the novel Coronavirus was a conspiracy.

Naturally, a good deal of imagery discussed in the hour-long film cover the impact of climate change and the pandemic. As winning photographer Coenraad Heinz Torlage stated early on in the film, ‘I think photography is a powerful medium to speak for those who can’t speak for themselves.’ A Year in Photos from Sony World Photography Awards 2021 can be viewed in its entirety above or here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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11 Portrait Photography Ideas to Inspire You

22 Apr

The post 11 Portrait Photography Ideas to Inspire You appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Coming up with fresh portrait photography ideas is challenging for many photographers. Whether you take a lot of portraits or are a beginner, it’s always best to have a few good ideas up your sleeve.

So here are 11 portrait photography ideas to create great images of whoever is in front of your camera, starting with…

1. Communicate well

Let your portrait subjects know what you want from them. Talk to them about what you are doing with the lighting, props, and background. This will build their confidence in you and show them you are serious about taking some great portraits.

Don’t be shy. Be interested in who they are and how they are feeling. Ask them questions. Show an interest in what they want.

Woman in a field — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/3.2 | 1/2000s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

2. Light based on the mood

Style your lighting to suit the mood of the portrait you are creating. If you want a soft, gentle portrait, use soft lighting and add lights or reflectors to reduce strong shadows.

Alternatively, embrace the darkness and generate a sullen atmosphere by creating a shadowy, dark effect. Purposely underexpose so you create a sense of mystery.

portrait of a woman in the market — Nikon D800 | 50mm | f/2.2 | 1/250s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

3. Make use of the environment or isolate your subject

Wherever you are, look around and think about how you can incorporate elements of the environment into your portrait photos. Think about whether showing some of the location will add to the portraits you are making.

If there’s nothing suitable to include in the photo, then isolate your subject. Blur the background by using a shallow depth of field, or find a plain, blank background to position your subject in front of.

a monk sweeping leaves portrait photography idea — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/4 | 1/400s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

4. Ask your subject what they want

Even if you have some good portrait photography ideas of your own, ask your subject what they want. You may be surprised at what they have to offer.

The young lady in the photo below told me to include ice cream in our planned portrait session. So I bought ice cream. We were challenged by the weather. Even indoors with the air conditioning on full, the ice cream melted too quickly. So we made the most of it!

a young woman with an ice cream — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/6.3 | 1/200s | ISO 100
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

5. Use many lighting and background setups

Think outside the box and use different lighting setups and backgrounds during the portrait session. By controlling the lighting and backgrounds, you can create a strikingly diverse set of portraits.

portrait photography idea a young woman with an ice cream — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/9 | 1/200s | ISO 100
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

6. Take a series of portraits

Take a series of portraits with the aim of displaying them together. Keep the lighting and background the same for each shot and capture a range of expressions and poses from your model.

If you isolate your model on a plain background, you can print the entire series as a single image. Or you can frame each shot on its own but hang the series together.

Three portraits of a girl in a green scarf — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/8 | 1/160s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

7. Photograph your subject’s hands

Hands bring a fresh dynamic and can help add more story to your pictures. You can have the hands holding something, or you can just arrange them nicely.

Giving your subject something to do with their hands will often help them relax. People can feel uneasy when they don’t know how to place their hands. So guiding the hands with some directions or suggestions will help your subject feel more comfortable.

portrait photography idea of a woman with a snake — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/11 | 1/200s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

8. Go with the flow

Sometimes, your subject may have some great ideas that are quite different from yours. Go with the flow and include these. Take the photos they want because they will always be enthusiastic and more expressive when trying out their own ideas.

Even if the ideas your subject suggests are not so stellar, take the photos anyway. This will help your subject build confidence and strengthen the relationship between the two of you.

Then, once you’ve spent some time capturing the photos they want, move on to your own portrait photography ideas.

two kids acting out a scene — Nikon D800 | 55mm | f/5.6 | 1/200s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

9. Capture the moment

Be prepared to capture special moments as they happen. Don’t be peering down at your camera and fiddling with the settings. Instead, engage with your subject. Be constantly aware of what they are doing and how they are looking. You want to be ready when they smile (and even when they grimace).

When your subject is engaged in an activity, getting your timing right can be more challenging. For the street portrait below, I had to move to keep up with my subject. He was demonstrating the quality of the wallets he had for sale. He poured lighter fluid on one and set it alight to show that it was not made of plastic. It all happened very quickly!

Man with a wallet on fire — Nikon D800 | 20mm | f/4 | 1/125s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

10. Incorporate some movement

Portraits do not need to be still. Movement can help add liveliness to a photo.

Have your subject walk or jump. You can also get them to turn their head quickly, like I did for this photo:

portrait photography idea a woman spinning around — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/2.8 | 1/160s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Head movement works best when a person has long hair, but it can be a good idea even for shorter-haired subjects.

Any movement can make way for spontaneity, so don’t forget about the importance of capturing the moment (as I discussed in the previous section). Be ready for anything that might happen.

11. Expose for good skin tones

I’ll add one technical idea:

Set your exposure so your subject’s skin tone is well exposed. This is especially important when there’s a lot of contrast in your composition.

For instance, wedding portraits of a bride and groom can be challenging. A stunning bride in a white dress and a groom looking handsome in his dark suit can make it difficult for you to find a balanced exposure setting. So spot meter off their faces; this will ensure you end up with a good exposure.

Two Akha woman having a laugh portrait photography idea — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/5.6 | 1/200s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Bonus tip: Show your subject the portrait

Here’s a bonus portrait photography tip:

As soon as you have a few good photos, show your subject. Until you do this, they may not have a clear idea of what you are doing or how you are framing them. But once you show them how good you are making them look in the portraits, they will feel better about themselves. This boosted confidence will only lead to more great portraits.

portrait photography idea a woman with an elephant — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/11 | 1/100s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Portrait photography ideas: final words

It can be challenging to come up with good portrait photography ideas, so I hope this list was helpful.

The next time you have a person in front of your camera, remember these ideas – and use them!

Do you have any portrait photography ideas? Share them (and your portrait photos) in the comments below!

The post 11 Portrait Photography Ideas to Inspire You appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

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Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos

21 Apr

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

What is smartphone RAW photography, and how can you set up RAW imaging on your phone? If high-quality photos are your goal, you must know how to do smartphone RAW photography.

For a long time, only standalone cameras supported RAW format. But these days, many smartphone manufacturers are including it as a feature on their devices – and in this article, I’ll share with you step-by-step instructions for capturing RAW photos on iPhones, Samsung phones, and Huawei phones.

And in case your native camera app doesn’t support RAW, I’ll include a list of third-party apps that produce RAW photos.

Let’s get started.

What is smartphone RAW photography?

native camera smartphone RAW photography — RAW format on the left/JPEG format on the right (taken in the Huawei P20 Lite native camera app.)

A RAW file is the unprocessed version of a photo. When you take a photograph, the camera records all sorts of information.

Then, if it saves it in JPEG – which is the most common format – it will use only the information it needs and discard the rest.

After that process, there’s no way to recover the information that was thrown away. So you’ll have less dynamic range and fewer details in the highlights and shadows. (The loss of information will be more noticeable if you want to do extreme editing, which can lead to unpleasant artifacts such as banding.)

smartphone RAW photography in Lightroom Mobile — Both these images were taken using the Lightroom app on a Xiaomi Redmi 8. There’s faint color banding in the sky on the JPEG image (right).

Most camera manufacturers have proprietary RAW file formats. For example, Nikon cameras generate NEF files, Canon files are CRW, and so on.

DNG format was developed by Adobe as an open-source RAW file, so it’s more compatible and any manufacturer can use it. In smartphone photography, DNG is the most commonly used RAW format.

Should you shoot in RAW on a smartphone?

If you want to do serious mobile photography, then yes. Photographing in RAW gives you great flexibility when you edit your photos.

However, RAW files are 10 to 12 times bigger than JPEG files – and that’s a lot of storage space. So you might not want to shoot in RAW for every single picture that you take.

If it’s an option on your phone, save the images to an SD card instead of the internal memory. Another storage solution is to send your files to the cloud or transfer them to your computer to be backed up on an external hard drive.

How to shoot in RAW: Step by step

Not all phones support RAW format, and the ones that do have different ways of enabling it.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for the most common smartphone brands:

For Huawei shooters

These instructions reference a Huawei P20 Lite; however, the process should be the same on all Huawei models that support RAW photography.

First, open the camera app and scroll through the Mode menu until you reach Pro. Select this mode, and keep in mind that RAW shooting is not available in the other photo modes.

Open your camera Settings menu by tapping on the gear icon (this will be in the upper left corner if you’re shooting in landscape orientation and in the upper right corner if you’re shooting in portrait orientation):

Tap Resolution:

Then scroll to the bottom, where you’ll find the Photo Format section. Enable RAW format:

Then close the settings and snap your photo! As long as you’re in Pro mode, the images will be saved in RAW (plus a JPEG copy).

RAW files are saved in Files > Internal Storage > DCIM > Camera > RAW. You can review them in the gallery under More Albums > Others > RAW.

For iPhone shooters

Not all iPhones support RAW format in the native camera app. If your iPhone doesn’t shoot in RAW, you’ll have to use a third-party app. Look for recommendations at the end of this article.

However, the iPhone 12 Pro and the iPhone 12 Pro Max both support Apple ProRAW (they need to have iOS 14.3 or later, though).

To enable ProRAW, go to Settings > Camera > Formats. Under the Photo Capture section, you can turn on Apple ProRAW.

Once you have enabled this function, you’ll have the RAW option when you’re taking pictures. Simply tap to turn it on or off. (That way, you can shoot in different formats without having to go through the Settings menu every time.)

When you take a photo and RAW is on, it will be saved as a DNG file of about 25 MB. But if you turn ProRAW off, your iPhone will create a JPEG or HEIF file – whichever you have selected as the default.

For Samsung shooters

Keep in mind that not all Samsung devices will support RAW files. However, for the Samsung devices that do support smartphone RAW photography, here’s how to set it up:

Open the camera app and scroll the options bar until you find More.

In the More menu, you can see different modes. Tap on PRO.

Then open Camera Settings and scroll down to Save Options.

Enable Save RAW copies.

Once you’ve done this, all the pictures you take in PRO mode will be saved with a RAW copy – in every other mode, the images will still be JPEGs.

If you want to save a JPEG file when shooting in PRO, you need to go to the Camera Settings and disable the RAW option.

If your Samsung phone doesn’t support RAW files in the native camera app, you can always download another app to do so. You’ll find a list of recommendations at the end of the article.

Apps to shoot in RAW

As I explained above, not all smartphones offer RAW shooting in their native camera app. However, there are plenty of third-party apps that will let you work in RAW. Here’s a list of a few good ones:

Lightroom Mobile (for iOS and Android). The free limited version includes the RAW function, though you will need to create an Adobe account. Of course, if you have an Adobe Lightroom or an Adobe Photography subscription, you already have access to the full version of Lightroom Mobile.

Lightroom mobile shoot in RAW — In Lightroom Mobile, you just have to tap on the top of the screen to open the menu and switch between DNG (RAW) and JPEG.

VSCO (iOS and Android). The RAW function is only for iPhone 6 and later. Older devices and Android phones can use VSCO as a camera and editor but won’t be able to shoot in RAW.

ProShot (iOS and Android). The RAW function works only on compatible phones. To know if your phone supports ProShot RAW, you might want to do some research before purchasing it. The cost is $ 1.99.

ProCam (iOS). Works on iPhones with 12 MP cameras – that’s iPhone 6s and later. It supports RAW files in Auto and Manual mode.

On1Photo RAW (iOS and Android). Free. Supports RAW and JPEG formats in all photo modes.

Flannl RAW camera (iOS). Free.

Manual Camera Lite: Professional Camera DSLR (Android). This free version supports RAW format on some phones. You can upgrade to the PRO version, but it’s not necessary to capture photos in RAW.

Smartphone RAW photography: conclusion

As you can see, it’s very easy to do smartphone RAW photography, no matter your phone type. It may take a few extra taps, but it makes a world of difference!

Now over to you:

Have you tried shooting smartphone RAW photos? Have you noticed a difference compared to your JPEGs? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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The Best Camera for Street Photography in 2021

20 Apr

The post The Best Camera for Street Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Choosing the best camera for street photography doesn’t have to be difficult, but it can take some time to weigh the options. Fortunately, with all the cameras available today, it’s tough to make a bad choice!

That said, there are some street photography cameras that stand out among their peers – thanks to a unique combination of features.

While street photography can be done with almost any camera, from mobile phones to medium format, there are a few characteristics to look for when choosing your gear. A small size, easy-to-use manual controls, a quiet shutter, and a fast response time are all very much appreciated when capturing slices of life in public spaces.

Other features like a tilting screen, a built-in ND filter, a bright viewfinder, and weather sealing are nice, but not deal-breakers for most photographers. Ultimately, you’ll need to decide what’s important to you and choose accordingly, but if you’re not sure where to start, this list will hopefully be of use.

(Note: In terms of ranking, the top three picks are ranked in order; after that, every camera is about equally good, followed by four honorable mentions that don’t quite make the cut.)

1. Fujifilm X100V

Best Camera for Street Photography Fuji X100F

Back in 2010, Fujifilm released the original X100, which featured a groundbreaking set of features including a hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder and an APS-C sensor. It quickly became a runaway hit.

The X100V is the fifth iteration of this camera, and over the years Fujifilm has steadily refined it for street photography. Aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and exposure compensation each have their own control dials, which makes them dead simple to adjust on the fly. The hybrid viewfinder lets you shoot with an old-school rangefinder or an ultra-modern mirrorless, and the flip-out touchscreen makes it easy to compose from low angles.

Other benefits for street photographers include a 23mm fixed lens mated to an APS-C sensor, which results in a 35mm equivalent field of view – perfect for street photography. The lens is sharp and bright with a maximum aperture of f/2, so you can take pictures with ease and never worry about missing a shot due to poor light. The built-in leaf shutter makes photography virtually silent, which is great if you value discretion.

The X100V is small but not exactly pocketable, and it has a full suite of customizable buttons and dials to suit your style. If you want a virtually no-compromises camera designed from the ground up for street shooters, the Fuji X100V is a fantastic option; it is, in my opinion, the best camera for street photography today.

Pros:

Stellar image quality
Easy-to-use controls
Hybrid optical/electronic rangefinder-style viewfinder (the only one of its kind among all the cameras on this list)
Beautiful JPEG files with a wide variety of available film simulations

Cons:

Weather sealing requires the purchase of an adapter ring for the front of the lens
Autofocus isn’t as fast as some of its peers
Expensive, especially for casual photographers
No image stabilization

2. Ricoh GR III

Best Camera for Street Photography Ricoh GR III

The Ricoh GR line of cameras has been a favorite of street photographers for years, and with good reason. The third iteration of this venerable camera series continues the tradition of being small in size but packing quite a punch, and it offers nearly everything a street photographer could want.

An 18mm lens mated to the APS-C sensor results in a 28mm field of view; this is a bit wider than the Fujifilm X100V, and more like what you might see on a mobile phone. Some people like the wider angle, but I find the 35mm field of view much more pleasing and versatile. Image quality is outstanding, and high-ISO shots look great. Lots of photographers swear by the Ricoh black and white JPEGs, so if you like to shoot in monochrome, this might be a good option.

The Ricoh GR III has plenty of buttons but not as many dedicated controls as the Fujifilm X100V and other cameras on this list. It’s not quite as easy to rapidly change settings, but many custom functions can be mapped to specific buttons to make things easier. The maximum f/2.8 aperture isn’t as bright as the Fuji X100V, but the camera compensates with built-in image stabilization; this makes low-light photography a bit more practical as long as you are shooting still subjects. A non-tilting touchscreen makes composing shots a cinch, but the lack of a dedicated viewfinder is certainly something to consider if you prefer composing your shots by bringing the camera up to your eye.

Pros:

Small size makes it easy to carry in a pocket or handbag
Much more affordable than the Fuji X100V and some other options on this list
Excellent image quality
Built-in image stabilization

Cons:

f/2.8 lens is not as bright as the Fujifilm X100V
The lack of a built-in viewfinder means photos must be composed using the rear LCD screen
Battery life isn’t great, so you might consider carrying a spare

3. Sony RX100 VII

Best Camera for Street Photography Sony RX100 VII

The Sony RX100 line has been around for many years and has gone through myriad iterations to adapt to the demands of photographers. The most dramatic change in recent years is the lens, which used to have a much smaller focal range but now goes all the way from 24mm to 200mm (in equivalent 35mm measurements). This makes the RX100 VII an outstanding camera for many genres, including street photography.

While the lens isn’t nearly as bright as the Fuji X100V’s or Ricoh GR III’s, its maximum f/2.8 aperture on the wide end is great for daytime street photography. This quickly shrinks to a maximum f/4.5 aperture as you zoom in, but most street photographers typically shoot wide as opposed to telephoto.

The 1″ sensor in the Sony RX100 VII is what enables this camera to have such a versatile lens. And while it’s no match for its APS-C and full-frame siblings’ image quality and high-ISO performance, Sony makes up for it in terms of sheer technological prowess.

The RX100 VII camera is packed to the gills with features normally found on high-end mirrorless cameras costing thousands of dollars. Autofocus is snappy and reliable and includes subject tracking and eye AF, video recording is outstanding, and the pop-up viewfinder is a boon for street photographers. A rear touchscreen, a relatively robust set of manual controls, and several customizable buttons mean you can set the camera to shoot how you want to get the street photos you might otherwise miss. At the end of the day, the reason this camera earns a spot on my list is due to its unique combination of features and size; no other camera offers so much in so small a body.

Pros:

Very small size makes the camera extremely portable and pocketable
Incredible technology, from 4K video to fast, reliable autofocus
Versatile lens with a 200mm focal length at the long end
Optical stabilization helps you get clear shots of still subjects in low light

Cons:

f/2.8 aperture is only available at the widest end of the focal range
The small image sensor results in less depth of field and inferior high-ISO performance compared to other cameras
The pop-up viewfinder isn’t instantly accessible

4. Panasonic Lumix LX100 II

Best Camera for Street Photography Panasonic Lumix LX100 II

While the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II isn’t as feature-packed as other cameras on the list, it nonetheless acquits itself nicely in the world of street photography. It’s easy to use and packs fast autofocus and responsive controls, including dedicated dials for shutter speed and exposure compensation. The built-in 24-75mm (35mm equivalent) lens is great for wide-angle shots as well as tighter crops, and the bright f/1.7 aperture is perfect for low-light photography, though it does shrink to f/2.8 when zoomed to 75mm. Street photographers will love the small size of this camera, though the lens does stick out from the body enough to cause problems in a pocket or handbag.

Panasonic packs a lot of technology into its cameras, and the Lumix LX100 II has a range of high-tech features that make it well suited to street photographers. The autofocus points cover nearly the entire frame so you can focus almost anywhere, and built-in crop modes let you frame your shots in a variety of different aspect ratios.

The touchscreen makes focusing a breeze, which can be useful for on-the-spot candids, and the electronic viewfinder is great for thoughtfully composing your photos. Street photographers will also appreciate the aperture ring, which gives you full control over the aperture without requiring a trip to the camera menus.

Pros

Manual control dials for shutter speed and aperture
Built-in zoom lens covers a useful focal range for street photography
Small size

Cons

Image quality isn’t as good at higher ISO values
f/1.7 aperture is only available at the widest end of the focal length range
The viewfinder isn’t as sharp and crisp as others on this list, which makes composing some shots a little frustrating

5. Canon G1 X Mark III

Best Camera for Street Photography Canon G1X Mark III

The Canon G1 X Mark III combines the best of compact cameras and their larger-sensor DSLR/mirrorless brethren; the result is an imaging tool that is quite well suited to many types of street photography.

The G1 X Mark III’s overall appeal is a bit hampered by its size as well as some limitations of the built-in lens, but anyone after a street photography camera would be wise to consider it. The huge APS-C image sensor on the G1 X III makes for superb shots in a variety of lighting conditions, and a long list of impressive technical specifications makes this camera great for street shots.

Composing is simple with the rear LCD, and Canon goes one step further than most by offering a fully articulating touchscreen. Autofocus isn’t particularly noteworthy, especially when tracking moving subjects, but that’s usually not a primary concern for street photographers.

The 24-72mm (35mm equivalent) focal range of the zoom lens means you can get wide shots and street portraits, but the aperture range on the lens is definitely less than ideal. The f/2.8 maximum aperture (when zoomed out) is respectable, but the f/5.6 aperture when zoomed in severely limits this camera’s functionality in low light.

However, high-ISO shots look great, and street photographers will love the abundance of control dials and function buttons to access commonly used settings. The electronic viewfinder is crisp and sharp, and while not as nice as Canon’s high-end cameras, it’s certainly good enough for street photography.

Pros:

Excellent image quality, especially compared to some cameras on this list with much smaller sensors
Leaf shutter lets you use very fast internal flash sync speeds
Built-in neutral density filter lets you explore more creative possibilities

Cons:

Small maximum aperture limits the usefulness of the built-in lens, especially when zoomed in
Battery life is not great
The lens isn’t as sharp as others on this list

6. Nikon Z5

Best Camera for Street Photography Nikon Z5

The inclusion of the Nikon Z5 on this list might seem a bit strange, but hear me out. The Nikon Z5 isn’t specifically designed for street photography like the Ricoh GR III or Fuji X100V, and it’s larger and heavier than the Canon G1 X Mark III. You also need to attach a lens because it doesn’t include one like the Panasonic LX100 II and others.

But it has one standout quality for street photography: it is currently the cheapest full-frame mirrorless camera on the market. So for street photographers who value image quality above all else, the Nikon Z5 is definitely worth a look.

In addition to a full-frame sensor, the Nikon Z5 has plenty of other features to make street photographers sit up and take notice. Its flip-out touchscreen lets you shoot from up high and down low, and it has more than enough manual controls and customizable settings. It features a bright viewfinder, fast autofocus, built-in image stabilization, and an (optional) fully electronic shutter for discreet shooting.

The Nikon Z5 can be paired with Nikon’s Z lenses, many of which are outstanding for street photography. Bear in mind that the Z5 is expensive, heavy, and downright cumbersome next to its nimble, pocketable counterparts. But for full-frame street shooters, it’s one of the best options available.

Pros:

Exquisite image quality and autofocus performance
Dual memory card slots
Built-in image stabilization helps you get great shots with slower shutter speeds

Cons:

Larger than almost every camera on this list; it will not fit in a pocket
Very few small Z-mount lenses available, which limits its appeal for street photography

7. Olympus PEN E-PL10

Best Camera for Street Photography Olympus PEN E-PL10

The Olympus PEN series has long been beloved by street photographers, and while not up to the standards of some of its peers, the PEN E-PL10 definitely holds its own in key areas. It sports a Micro Four Thirds sensor, which sits comfortably between the 1″ sensor of the RX100 series and the APS-C sensors offered by cameras such as the G1 X Mark III and Fuji X100V. It strikes a nice balance between size and capability, with features that appeal to many street photographers.

Like the Nikon Z5, the PEN E-PL10 requires a separate lens, but Micro Four Thirds lenses are much smaller than their Nikon/Canon/Sony counterparts. For example, the 14-42mm lens (28-84mm equivalent) shown in the photo above makes the E-PL10 about the same size as the Fuji X100V when the lens is zoomed out to 14mm. And there’s a huge variety of MFT lenses, many of which are great for casual street shooting.

The PEN E-PL10 isn’t as feature-rich as some of its more pro-oriented siblings like the OM-D E-M1 Mark III, but it has a full complement of manual controls so you can get precisely the shot you’re after. Some street photographers might lament the lack of a dedicated viewfinder, but the articulating rear touchscreen makes composing photos easy and enjoyable.

The E-PL10 also stands out thanks to built-in image stabilization and fast, reliable autofocus. And the PEN E-PL10 is much less expensive than other cameras on this list, which makes it a great option for people wanting to get started with street photography.

Pros:

One of the smallest interchangeable lens cameras on the market
Excellent manual controls and built-in image stabilization
Inexpensive, even when factoring in the cost of a lens

Cons:

A Micro Four Thirds sensor means high-ISO shots aren’t top-notch
No dedicated viewfinder
Serious street shooters might outgrow the feature set of the camera rather quickly

Honorable mentions

The cameras listed below are all well-suited to street photography, but I generally consider them outliers in this type of discussion. While they are all worth considering, each is limited by some important factors, and I would generally recommend one of the initial cameras on this list over one of the honorable mentions.

However, if money, size, or access to the latest technology are not your primary concerns, then by all means, look at the models listed below.

8. Leica Q2

Best Camera for Street Photography Leica Q2

The Leica Q2 is a no-compromise street photographer’s dream. Everything about this camera is ideally suited to street photography, from its full-frame sensor to its exquisitely sharp 28mm f/1.8 lens to the brilliant optical viewfinder, durable construction, and weather sealing.

While you could buy several Fujifilm X100Vs and a Ricoh GR III for the same price as a Leica Q2, you would be making some compromises and tradeoffs in the process that you simply don’t have to think about with the Leica. So if money is no object and you don’t mind a massive lens protruding from the camera body, the Leica Q2 is my top recommendation.

9. Sony RX1R II

Best Camera for Street Photography Sony RX1R II

If you’re searching for an ideal street photography camera but can’t afford the Leica Q2, then the Sony RX1R II should sit at the top of your list. It’s similar to the Leica in many ways, with specs that surpass almost every camera at the top of this list, even if it doesn’t quite reach the same soaring heights as its German-made counterpart.

If the Q2 sits at the top of the podium, the RX1R is a very close second place. It’s expensive, but not quite as much as the Q2. It has a 35mm f/2 lens that isn’t quite as wide or bright as the Q2. It has a viewfinder, but it pops out like a periscope instead of being elegantly embedded in the camera body. While the rear screen flips out for greater versatility, the camera sacrifices weather sealing as a result.

In short, the Sony RX1R II is an outstanding camera for good reasons, but generally not one I would recommend for most casual street shooters.

10. Sony a6100

Best Camera for Street Photography Sony A6100

The Sony a6100 isn’t designed for street photography, but don’t overlook it. It’s a small, well-rounded, highly capable camera that also happens to serve the needs of street photographers quite well.

The Sony a6100 is a full-featured APS-C camera that accepts all of Sony’s E-mount lenses, and it packs some impressive technology to help you capture the images you’re after. Everything you would expect in a proper camera is here: manual controls, a bright viewfinder, great autofocus, and a flip-out rear screen. It’s small enough to tote around but not as pocketable as the Ricoh GR III or Sony RX100 VII. I would recommend pairing it with the 20mm (30mm equivalent) f/2.8 pancake lens, which essentially transforms this camera into a Fujifilm X100V.

Strictly from a street photography perspective, I prefer the X100V – but some might appreciate the technology and the ability to change lenses offered by the a6100.

11. Fujifilm X-E4

Best cameras for street photography Fujifilm X-E4

It almost doesn’t seem fair to relegate the Fujifilm X-E4 to the bottom of the honorable mentions category. In many ways, it seems like one of the best cameras for street photography you can buy! But while this camera has an extensive list of features that appeal to street photographers, I can’t recommend it over the Fuji X100V.

The X-E4 and the Fujifilm X100V share many common elements, from sensor size to flip-out screen to manual controls and even an integrated viewfinder. But while the X-E4 is newer and less expensive, it doesn’t come with a lens, and by the time you add one that is suited to street photography, the price is almost the same as an X100V.

And the X100V has a wide-aperture lens, better manual controls, and a hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder that will appeal to a lot of street photographers. As a small, capable, interchangeable lens camera, the X-E4 is great. But for street photography, the X100V is the better choice.

Best Camera for Street Photography Kids Walking in the Woods — Fuji X100F | f/2 | 1/600s | ISO 200

The best camera for street photography: final words

Street photography is all about capturing the candid everyday moments that make up the world around us. And almost every camera is capable of getting those shots – mobile phones, pocket cameras, and even DSLRs with big lenses.

There’s no rule that says the camera you already have isn’t going to be well suited to street photography. And your only inherent limitations are the ones you set for yourself. But if you’re looking for the best camera for street photography, I hope this list was helpful and gave you a few things to think about!

Street photography camera FAQs

Can I use my mobile phone for street photography?

Mobile phones are great for street photography, as long as you have plenty of light. When the lights go down, photo quality decreases dramatically, especially if you are shooting moving subjects. (Night Mode on mobile phones almost always requires your subjects to be very still.)

What focal range is best for street photography?

This one is largely a matter of personal taste, but anything between 25mm and 35mm is generally ideal for street photography. Much wider than 25mm and people start to look a bit distorted. Much narrower than 35mm, and you will have trouble fitting everything into the frame.

Can I use a DSLR for street photography?

While traditional DSLRs can certainly be used for street photography, I don’t recommend them when there are so many excellent mirrorless options available. DSLRs are large and conspicuous, and Live View shooting often uses contrast-detection autofocus (which is highly unreliable for dynamic street photography settings).

Do I need weather sealing on my camera?

Unless you are shooting in extreme weather conditions, you probably don’t need weather sealing. It’s nice to have for peace of mind and I wouldn’t recommend against it, but as long as you’re careful not to let your camera get soaked with rain or covered in dust, you’ll probably be fine.

Do I need to focus manually when shooting street photos?

Many street photographers enjoy shooting manually, which is very simple thanks to focus peaking on modern mirrorless cameras. However, autofocus works perfectly fine, and there is nothing wrong with using it for street photography.

The post The Best Camera for Street Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples)

18 Apr

The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Want tips for stunning landscape photography? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share 11 easy landscape photography tips – which are guaranteed to get you taking beautiful images, no matter your experience level. I’ve also included plenty of example photos, so you can see the tips in action (and know that they really do work!).

Let’s get started.

1. Maximize your depth of field

In landscape photography, a deep depth of field is almost always the way to go.

In other words:

You want as much of your scene in focus as possible. The simplest way to do this is to choose a small aperture setting (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16). Because the smaller your aperture, the greater the depth of field in your shots.

Do keep in mind that smaller apertures mean less light is hitting your image sensor. So you’ll need to compensate for the narrow aperture either by increasing your ISO or lengthening your shutter speed (or both).

PS: Of course, there are times when you can get some great results with a very shallow depth of field in a landscape setting. It’s just a tricky technique that requires a lot of finesse.

2. Use a tripod

To maximize your depth of field, you’ll be using a small aperture – and you’ll also likely shoot with a long shutter speed.

But unless you’re careful, you’ll end up with an unusably blurry image.

That’s where a tripod comes in handy. You can use it to stabilize your camera and keep your photos tack sharp for 1-second, 5-second, and even 30-second long exposures.

In fact, even if you can shoot at a fast shutter speed, a tripod can still be beneficial. It’ll force you to slow down and consider your composition more carefully.

Also, to prevent camera shake from pressing the shutter button, consider a remote shutter release.

3. Look for a focal point

Pretty much every shot needs some sort of focal point, and landscape photography is no different.

In fact, a landscape photograph without a focal point ends up looking rather empty. And it’ll leave your viewer’s eye wandering through the image with nowhere to rest.

Focal points can take many forms in landscape photos. They can range from a building or a structure (such as in the photo above) to an eye-catching tree, a boulder or rock formation, a silhouette, or something else entirely.

Also, think not only about what the focal point is, but where you should position it within the frame. The rule of thirds can be useful here.

4. Think foregrounds

Here’s one key tip that can make your landscape shots stand out:

Think carefully about the foreground of your composition…

…and include clear points of interest.

When you do this, you give those viewing the shot a path into the image. And you create a sense of depth, which is always a nice bonus.

5. Consider the sky

In landscape photography, you should always think about the sky.

Most landscapes will either have a dominant foreground or a dominant sky. And unless you include one or the other, your shot will end up looking boring.

Start by observing the sky. If it’s bland and lifeless, don’t let it dominate your shot; place the horizon in the upper third of the image (though you’ll want to make sure your foreground is interesting).

But if the sky is filled with drama, interesting cloud formations, or colors, then let it shine! Place the horizon in the bottom third of the frame to emphasize the heavens.

(Also, consider enhancing skies, either in post-production or with filters. For example, you can use a polarizing filter to add color and contrast.)

6. Use lines to lead the eye

One of the questions you should always ask yourself as you do landscape photography is:

“How am I leading the eye of those viewing this composition?”

There are a number of ways to lead the eye (and including a clear foreground subject works well). But one of my favorite ways is to provide viewers with lines that lead them into the image (such as the road in the photo above).

Lines give an image depth and scale. Plus, they can offer a point of interest by creating patterns in your shot.

7. Capture movement

When most people think about landscapes, they think of calm, serene, and passive environments. However, landscapes are rarely completely still – and if you can convey this movement, you’ll add drama and mood to your image. You’ll also create a point of interest.

But how can you convey movement in a landscape?

You can focus on wind in the trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying overhead, moving clouds, etc. Capturing this movement generally requires a longer shutter speed (sometimes a shutter speed of many seconds!).

Of course, a slow shutter speed means more light hitting your sensor, so you’ll either need a narrow aperture or an ND filter. You might also choose to shoot at the start or the end of the day when there is less light.

8. Work with the weather

A scene can change dramatically depending upon the weather, so choosing the right time to shoot is of major importance.

Many beginner photographers see a sunny day and think that it’s the best time to go out with their camera. However, an overcast day that is threatening rain might present you with a much better opportunity – you can create an image with real mood and ominous undertones.

Look for storms, wind, mist, dramatic clouds, sun shining through dark skies, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises, etc. And work with these variations in the weather rather than just waiting for the next sunny, blue sky.

9. Photograph during the golden hours

landscape photography tips snow at golden hour

I chatted with a landscape photographer recently who told me that he never shoots during the day. His only shooting times are around dawn and dusk because that’s when the light is best, and that’s when the landscape comes alive.

These golden hours, as they’re often called, offer great landscape photography for a number of reasons.

For one, you get gorgeous golden light. I also love the angle of the low sun; it creates interesting patterns, dimensions, and textures, all of which can enhance a landscape photo.

10. Think about horizons

landscape photography tips winding mountain road

This is an old tip but a good one. Before you take a landscape shot, always consider the horizon on two fronts:

Is it straight? While you can always straighten images later in post-production, it’s easier if you get it right in-camera.
Where is the horizon positioned in the frame? A natural spot for the horizon is along one of the rule of thirds gridlines rather than in the middle of the frame. Of course, rules are meant to be broken – but I find that, unless you’re photographing a very striking scene, the rule of thirds usually works here.

11. Change your point of view

You drive up to the scenic lookout, get out of the car, grab your camera, turn it on, walk up to the barrier, raise the camera to your eye, rotate left and right a little, zoom a little, then take your shot – before getting back in the car and driving to the next scenic lookout.

We’ve all done it. However, this process doesn’t generally lead to the “wow” shot that many of us are looking for.

Instead, take a little more time with your landscape photos. Find a more interesting point of view.

You might start by finding a different spot to shoot from than the scenic lookout.

You can also look for new angles; this could mean getting down onto the ground to shoot from below, or heading up high to gain a nice vantage point.

Explore the environment and experiment with different viewpoints. You might find something truly unique!

Landscape photography tips: conclusion

landscape photography tips waterfall in Iceland

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture some stunning landscape photography!

So grab your camera, head out, and find a subject to shoot.

It’ll be a lot of fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these landscape photography tips are you going to try first? And do you have any landscape photo tips of your own? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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15 Mountain Landscape Photography Tips for Stunning Images

16 Apr

The post 15 Mountain Landscape Photography Tips for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

Of all of the undertakings you can make with your camera, mountain landscape photography can be one of the most rewarding. Apart from the fact that mountains are straight-up beautiful, their imposing nature makes them a great landscape photography element.

This article will give you 15 quick tips – so you get better results the next time you go chasing after mountains.

1. Fill the frame

Mountains, by nature, are huge. You don’t have to get the entire thing in the frame. It’s just as acceptable to fill the frame with a certain element that draws your attention. This will make the mountain the background in your images.

Yes, it can be tempting to try and get a huge vista in the frame. But if you take a moment to look for smaller details that could make an interesting photo, you might find something unexpected.

15 mountain landscape photography tips — Although the entirety of the mountain isn’t in the frame, it is still clear that the background is a mountain, and the tight crop gives a clue to just how big it is.
Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM | 200mm | f/5.6 | 1/2000s | ISO 200

2. Use reflections when possible

mountain landscape photography lake reflection — Using reflections in your compositions is a great way to show off mountains.
Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | 35mm | f/16 | 1/50s | ISO 100

If the mountains you are photographing are near a body of water, you already have a ton of visual interest to use in your foregrounds.

If you can, wait until the water is still. Then you can use the reflections of the mountains in your composition. This may be personal taste, but it is always a winning combination in my book.

3. Show scale with smaller elements

village on a mountaintop — This tiny village near the top of a mountain in Spain shows just how enormous the landscape is.
Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100

Again, mountains tend to be huge, but when you shoot with an ultra-wide-angle lens, you wind up pushing the perspective back. And this makes it difficult to give your viewers a true sense of just how large things are within your frame.

You can combat this by including an element that shows the scale of things in the scene. Buildings, people, and animals all work well.

4. Include people in the landscape

As with the previous point, putting people in your mountain landscape photography can convey just how big the mountains are.

It does more than that, however. Because with the inclusion of a human element, you are adding something that your viewers can relate to.

5. Try a panorama

lake reflection with mountains — Stitching several images together into a panorama is a great way to ensure that you capture the entire scene.
Canon 7D | Canon EF 35mm f/2 | f/16 | 0.4s | ISO 100

When you are photographing mountains, don’t be afraid to take a sequence of shots that you can stitch together as a panorama.

Mountain ranges tend to suit the panorama format especially well because there is just so much to see!

6. Fill your foreground

This may be standard landscape photography advice, but it still applies when shooting mountains. If you’re using a wide-angle lens, you will have plenty of space in your foreground – and you’ll need to fill it with something interesting.

So pick a foreground subject and get up close to it. This could be flowers, an interesting rock formation, or something simple like a sign.

Then take a shot that combines the interesting foreground and a beautiful mountain background, like this:

mountain landscape photography foreground flowers with mountains in the background — Having lots of visual interest in the foreground of your images can help your viewers stay engaged.
Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 10mm | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100

7. Include a human element

mountain landscape photography village — Not all mountains are wild places. Including signs of human habitation can be a good way to capture something interesting.
Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM | 169mm | f/11 | 1/60s | ISO 100

By human element, I don’t mean people. Instead, I advise you to find something human-made that will show your viewers how the people that live nearby incorporate the mountain into their lives.

On their own, mountains are impressive. But as part of our world, they are also part of our lives. If you can show this in your images, you might be able to convey an interesting narrative.

8. Use a different focal point

In your mountain landscape photography, the mountain does not need to be the focal point of your image. Instead, you can find a different focal point and use the mountain as environmental information.

Of course, you can still take a photograph of the sweeping vista. But once that is done, look smaller – and see if there are other subjects to be found in the scene.

9. Use your GND filters

mountain with farm fields — Graduated neutral density filters are a great way to control your exposures.
Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 10mm | f/16 | 0.3s | ISO 100

To help you get good exposures while in the field, don’t forget to pack your graduated neutral density filters. These will allow you to even out your exposures at the time of capture, making it easier to process your images when you get back home.

10. Wait for the light

foggy mountain lake — Here, I waited from 4 AM to 8 AM for the fog to break. If you can, always, *always* try to wait out the weather.
Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 11mm | f/16 | 0.5s | ISO 100

This tip cannot be understated. If you want the best-looking mountain landscape photography images that you can produce, wait for the light to be at its best. If you get on location early and find the composition that you want, don’t be afraid to stay until the light shifts – even if it takes a couple of hours.

Yes, I know it can seem boring, and it’s hard to justify the effort, but please, trust me. It is very much worth the time and effort.

11. Use longer lenses

When you are packing for your trip into the mountains, don’t forget to take your longer lenses with you. Standard-length primes can be great for panoramas, but telephoto lenses can help you pick out smaller details in your scenes.

In other words:

There is a lot of room in landscape photography for lenses aside from the wide angles that dominate the genre.

12. Plan for the light

With the technology available to us, it’s easier than ever to know exactly which direction the light is going to come from on any given day of the year.

So once you know when and where you are going, do your research and figure out where the sun is going to rise or set. Then plan your shots based on that.

13. Plan for the weather

Like planning for the light, it’s also a good idea to plan for the weather. Knowing the weather will help you determine if you need to pack any extra gear like rain covers and waterproof clothing.

Of course, it’s also in the best interest of personal safety to have an idea of when snow or rain might appear. This is even more important if you intend to be on the mountain, especially after golden hour.

14. Don’t avoid bad weather

moody mountain landscape photography — After an entire day of low visibility, the fog broke for a total of five minutes, just long enough for a shot. Don’t avoid bad weather, even if you ultimately fail to get a photo.
Canon 7D | Sigma EF 10-20mm f/3.5 | 20mm | f/16 | 1/30s | ISO 100

While planning for bad weather is good, you don’t always need to stay indoors. Many times, the most interesting photos will come in the worst weather.

In fact, some of the best light I have ever seen has been during a break in a storm; these breaks allow just enough light to make things look like a fairytale.

And if you lock yourself away when the weather is bad, you’ll never get to experience such moments.

15. Be safe

Above all, strive for safety. Mountain landscape photography can be incredibly rewarding, but don’t risk your personal well-being for a great shot.

Watch where you’re going, take weather-appropriate clothing, be aware of the forecast, and tell somebody where you are going to be. And if you’re going to stay out until after blue hour, make sure you know exactly how to get back.

Mountain landscape photography: the end

I hope this article has inspired you to get out and create your own mountain landscape photography.

The next time you’re out shooting mountains, remember these tips – and have fun!

Have you photographed mountains before? Do you have any tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

What type of lens is best for mountain landscape photography?

All lenses have their uses. Wide-angle lenses are the most popular, but standard and telephoto lenses can work, too.

What’s the best time of day to photograph mountains?

It entirely depends on where the light is hitting the mountain. The golden hours are best as long as the sun isn’t behind your mountain.

How do you show how big a mountain is in a photograph?

You include an element that is easy for the viewer to identify, such as a person. This will give your images a sense of scale.

Why do the mountains in my photographs look so far away?

Wide-angle lenses distort perspective, and this can push everything back in the frame. Use a standard focal length (35mm to 50mm) for a perspective close to the human eye’s. To include more in the frame, consider shooting in a panoramic format.

The post 15 Mountain Landscape Photography Tips for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

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Triangle Composition in Photography: A Quick Guide (Plus Tips)

13 Apr

The post Triangle Composition in Photography: A Quick Guide (Plus Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Speaking about triangle composition, artist Wassily Kandinsky once said, “The impact of the acute angle of a triangle on a circle produces an effect no less powerful than the finger of God touching the finger of Adam in Michelangelo.”

Recognizing the momentum within a triangular shape, painters have regularly capitalized on the visual drama of triangular structures. But painters aren’t the only ones to utilize triangles; photographers have also made extensive use of the shape to add impact, lead the eye, and emphasize spirited angles unfolding within the photographic frame.

In this article, we’ll take a look at the dynamics of triangles in photographic composition.

What is triangle composition in photography?

Triangle composition relies on the use of triangular shapes or concepts to create a better image.

Triangles can be found everywhere. Signs, architecture, geography, sailboats, food, arrows, aviation, wallpaper, optical illusions (see the Penrose triangle); the list goes on!

Why are triangles useful?

Triangles are useful in composition for many reasons. Perhaps one of the most obvious selling points of triangles is their striking versatility.

For instance, triangles can represent direction and orientation; they can signal stasis or momentum. A triangle that recedes into the horizon creates the impression of perspective and depth. Off-kilter triangles paired with vivid colors create impactful shapes that express energy and dynamism. And depending on whether a triangle is facing left or right, it can represent progress, forward motion, or backtracking (just think of the symbols on a TV remote!).

Triangles in composition can also create order in chaos. That’s why triangles can be helpful in planning a photograph or figuring out why an image works the way it does.

Over time, artists have developed different compositional concepts to help create appealing imagery. The golden triangle is a visualization that divides the frame into four triangles, like this:

A diagram of the golden triangle composition rule

The golden triangle suggests one of three approaches:

Fill one of the triangles with a main subject.
Align some diagonal subject matter with at least one of the diagonal golden triangle lines.
Line up a significant point in the composition with a point of intersection.

A web with the golden triangle composition rule overlay — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/50s | ISO 100

Triangles found in both the natural and modern landscape can visually unite or disrupt a photograph.

And by incorporating triangles or the golden triangle overlay into a photographic composition, you can control the energy and focus of an image.

Common triangle types

There are several types of triangles you should know:

Self-contained triangles can be found throughout the natural and urban environment. These distinct shapes can command attention and often serve as a key component or structural element within a photograph.

(Interestingly, some triangles do extend beyond the frame, thus becoming more indirect triangular compositions.)

Other triangular formats include triangles with rounded edges, which deliver a softened visual effect.

Triangle composition leaves in the rain — Triangular patterns found in nature.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/5 | 1/160s | ISO 100

Implied triangles are more subtle arrangements of subject matter that can generate the impression of a triangle composition. Implied triangles aren’t a single specific triangular subject. Instead, they borrow from different elements in an image to form a triangle-like arrangement.

Out of focus lights arranged in triangle patterns — Implied triangles formed from points of light.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100s | ISO 250

The type and behavior of triangles can significantly impact a photograph.

To create stability or instability within an image, triangles can teeter on a point or rest firmly on a vertical line. Symmetrical triangles can signal equilibrium whereas asymmetrical triangles can represent an object to overcome or act as a symbol of intensification.

A triangle pointing at the sky can represent the peak of a goal or journey toward success. A triangle pointing at the ground can represent direction, a downfall, or a lessening of intensity.

Other triangles can point to specific subjects or even represent the main subject.

Tips for working with triangles

Triangles are intriguing shapes, and working with them doesn’t have to be hard.

Here are a few tips for creating beautiful triangle compositions in photography:

1. Use variety

Triangles come in many shapes and forms. To add variety to your photos, include different triangle sizes, types, and orientations (this will also help you develop an eye for the shape).

triangles on a sidewalk — Triangles can disrupt patterns and direct the viewer.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/125s | ISO 100

2. Try the golden triangle rule

As I explained earlier, the golden triangle is a visual device used to help create harmonious compositions.

While the golden triangle takes practice to visualize (see the overlay displayed above), it encourages you to make the most of the available subject matter. The rule also draws attention to areas in a composition that might otherwise be ignored.

3. Rules can be broken

Although triangle composition is an engaging approach to photography, compositional rules can be bent and broken.

The golden triangle serves as a guide or exercise rather than a definitive rule – and can therefore be manipulated or ignored.

And using triangular subject matter in a composition is pretty flexible. For example, rounded points or points that extend off the edge of the photograph can still suggest engaging and cohesive triangle-based compositions.

Triangle composition in photography: final thoughts

Over the centuries, triangles and triangle composition have come to represent strength, vitality, energy, and momentum.

By incorporating triangles (and the golden triangle rule) into your compositions, you can create dynamic, eye-catching photos.

So the next time you’re out with your camera, look for triangles – and create some powerful compositions!

A utility pole with triangle composition — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/9 | 1/250s | ISO 100

Triangle composition FAQ

What is triangle composition?

Triangle composition is either the incorporation of triangular shapes into photographic work or adherence to the golden triangle compositional rule.

What is the golden triangle?

The golden triangle is a compositional device. By mentally dividing an image into triangular sections, you can arrange elements to create beautiful compositions.

Where can I photograph triangles?

Triangles make up our world in many ways. Triangles can be found in the urban landscape as well as the natural environment. Once you start looking, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to photograph triangles.

How can I use triangle composition?

There are several ways to incorporate triangular compositions into a photograph. The most obvious ways involve photographing triangular shapes themselves and using the golden triangle rule to guide your compositions. You can also use implied triangles to loosely organize subjects in a triangular format.

The post Triangle Composition in Photography: A Quick Guide (Plus Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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Aesthetic Photography: Tips, Ideas and Examples

09 Apr

These days we are bombarded by visual content. We see images everywhere from giant billboards on the side of the road to handy little Instagram-sized squares in the palms of our hands. Chances are, every once in a while you see a photo that stops your mindless scrolling in its tracks. You are captivated by what you see and feel Continue Reading
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