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Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

How to Find a Great Sunset Photography Location

05 Mar

We all know that one essential ingredient to a great photograph is beautiful light, and that some of the best light happens during sunset. But what truly makes a great sunset photography location?

Acacia tree or umbrella thorn in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.

Acacia tree or umbrella thorn in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania.

In my experience, the best locations are ones where you can find two different compositions, that will work under different lighting situations, to double your chances of making a spectacular sunset image.

To understand what I’m getting at, first think about the direction of light. As the sun descends in the sky and approaches the horizon, the last of the sun’s rays have a wonderful warm hue, that can light up the tips of mountains, and cast a golden glow on the land in the direction opposite the sun. Then there’s usually a lull for a few minutes when nothing much happens, giving you a chance to change position to face the sun. When the sun falls below the horizon, you’ll have an opportunity to make backlit or silhouette photos.

Salton Sea Moments

Finding Your Location

It’s best not to leave location scouting for the last minute, or you won’t have enough time to find a spot with two good compositions, in both directions. Scouting a location is a good activity for mid-afternoon, when you’re probably not going to be photographing anyway, due to the harsh light. Leave your gear at home, or only take minimal equipment to record the scene, so you don’t have a heavy load and you can move quickly and easily.

Arches National Park, Utah

Arches National Park, Utah

Before you go scouting, don’t forget to find out the exact direction where the sun will set. This is easy to find with a quick internet search and a compass, or using an app on your phone or tablet.

When you are scouting, what you’re looking for is a good composition for both a front-lit scene and a backlit scene. They don’t necessarily have to be at the exact same spot, but it should take you no more than a few minutes to walk between them.

Sunset at Arches National Park, Utah.

Sunset at Arches National Park, Utah.

Composition Tips for Front-lit Scenes

For your front-lit scene, you are going to have nice golden light throughout the landscape, and if there are any mountains in your frame, they will have dramatic bright light on the top. What I usually look for in this kind of a scene is depth, by using foreground elements to emphasize the distance between foreground and background.

Jumbo Rocks

Try to find some leading lines that will guide the viewer’s eye through the image, and ideally lead to something in the background. Or, find other interesting features, such a plant or colourful rocks, to place in the foreground of the scene.

Composition Tips for Backlit Scenes

Once those final rays have disappeared from your front-lit scene, you’re ready to change positions and get ready for the backlight. In a backlit scene, everything on the ground is going to be in shadow, so you no longer need to worry about depth – it’s all going to be black anyway. So now what you are looking for is something with a great shape, to make an interesting silhouette against the colourful sky. This can be jagged mountains, sea stacks on the ocean, a cactus, or anything else that has a really strong shape. Don’t pick anything that is going to just look like a vague blob of darkness.

Sunset at Joshua Tree National Park, California

Sunset at Joshua Tree National Park, California

In the Field

Keep these composition ideas in mind when you scout your location, and if you need to, mark your chosen spots with a GPS while you are scouting, to make it easier to find your location when you return to the scene for sunset.

Go early! If there are any clouds on the horizon where the sun will set, the last rays for your front-lit scene will come sooner than expected.

Boondocking spot off Ogilby Road near Yuma, Arizona.

Ogilby Road near Yuma, Arizona.

Exposure for Front-lit Scenes

As the sun descends in the sky and approaches the horizon, your scene will have a more even exposure than it would have earlier in the day. But you still may want to use a graduated neutral density filter, to even out the exposure between the brighter sky and the darker land.

Exposure for Backlit Scenes

When exposing for a backlit scene, it’s important not to use an exposure setting that takes the whole frame into account, like matrix or evaluative metering. Instead use spot metering, and meter on a sky portion of your image, which will capture the dramatic colours in the sky, while allowing your subject in the foreground (the one with the great shape) to become a silhouette.

Ogilby

Conclusion

You can only plan so much when it comes to sunset photography, the rest is up to mother nature. You can only guess what is going to happen with the clouds and the light. When you get there, you may only have clouds for your front-lit scene and not the backlit one. But at least if you plan out two different shots, you’ll double your chances of coming home with a stunning sunset photo.

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The post How to Find a Great Sunset Photography Location by Anne McKinnell appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Modes of Transportation

05 Mar
Rishi Bandopadhay

By Rishi Bandopadhay

We humans have many ways of getting ourselves from point A to point B, methods of transportation, or vehicles, such as:

  • Planes
  • Trains
  • Car/automobiles
  • Bus
  • Bicycle
  • Motorcycle
  • Boat
  • Scooter
  • Sailboat
  • Cruise ship
  • Skateboard
  • Rollerblades
  • Etc. and the list can go on and on . . .
Joan Campderrós-i-Canas

By Joan Campderrós-i-Canas

Sese_87

By sese_87

Weekly Photography Challenge – Modes of Transportation

That leaves it pretty wide opened for you this week. You could shoot traffic on a busy street, try some panning, freeze or stop the motion by choosing the appropriate shutter speed, take a bus or train and shoot from inside, just for a few ideas.

Ben Salter

By Ben Salter

Harald Kobler

By Harald Kobler

Bob Jagendorf

By Bob Jagendorf

Joiseyshowaa

By joiseyshowaa

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

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Visual appetite: Eric Wolfinger’s food photography

03 Mar

Eric Wolfinger is a traveling food photographer who spent six years cooking and baking professionally before working behind the lens. An immersive photographer known for weaving practical instruction with powerful storytelling, the cookbooks he shoots go on to become the classics of their category. His first project, ‘Tartine Bread,’ was nominated for a James Beard Award and is now in its ninth printing. Twelve books later he is still hungry and on the move.

In this presentation from PIX 2015, Eric takes us on a journey that includes baking bread in San Francisco, scuba diving in Korea to photograph fishermen, and details the challenges of photographing an entire book within the confines of a restaurant kitchen in Manhattan. He also reminds us that no job is too small in pursuit of your dreams.

If you’re feeling hungry and want to see more mouthwatering food photos, visit Eric’s website for a visual feast.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Getting Started with Long Exposure in Fashion Photography

03 Mar

Editor’s note: Once you try to use long exposure in fashion photography, you’re likely to do it again and again. Not only can it bring outstanding results in terms of originality of your images, but it’s also a great way to add a funny bone to your portrait sessions and thus, get more natural, sincere model looks. In this post, Continue Reading

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The journey: Michael Brown on photography at the edge of the world

28 Feb

Michael Brown is an award-winning director and a pioneer of adventure filmmaking. He has summited peaks on all seven continents (including five summits of Mount Everest) and made first kayak descents of wild rivers in places like Bhutan and Chile, all with the camera rolling.

Brown goes into some of the world’s most hostile environments — where there’s little room for error — and comes away with stunning visual footage and stirring stories that remind us of our shared humanity. He believes that if you can imagine a goal, you can achieve it.

In his talk from PIX 2015 Michael takes us on a very personal journey to the edges of the world, including climbing Mt. Everest with blind climber Erik Weihenmayer. In the process, he shares important lessons about risks, relationships and the importance of challenging ourselves and mentoring others.

To learn more about Michael’s work you can visit his web site at Serac Adventure Films.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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7 Tips for Better Adventure Photography

28 Feb

Adventure photography has continuously become more and more popular for outdoor photographers, thanks to new technology in cameras, and the outlets of social media platforms like Instagram, that are very photography-friendly. You may have seen some posts that are routinely labeled as “epic” and want to know how to create the same awe-inspiring feeling in your own photographs.

The good news is you can! But, just like in other fields of photography, composition is extremely important when you want to start dabbling in epic scenes. Let’s look at some tips to help you start shooting better adventure photography.

1- Always have your camera on

PHOTO 1

Like a lot of photographers, you may suffer from battery anxiety, the fear that your battery is going to die and you’ll miss that one shot you’ve been waiting for your entire life. Well, when you constantly have your camera turned off, you’re probably going to miss more amazing split second shots, than if your battery died. That’s why you should always leave your camera on when you’re out shooting adventure photography.

Are you out hiking with your friends? Leave the camera on. What about spelunking in some caves? Leave the camera on. What if you’re zip-lining through a jungle canopy? First, leave your camera on, and then hold on to your camera tightly.

You won’t have to worry about battery anxiety if you properly pack, including extra batteries to take with you. Simply leave your camera on, never put your lens cap on, use a lens hood to protect the lens, and take a micro-fibre cloth to clean the lens. Your fear of the battery going dead should never stand between you, and freezing an adventurous moment in time.

2 – Put yourself in the frame

Adventure photography features people living their lives to the fullest, by placing them in amazing landscape scenes. But, what if you aren’t in nature with anyone else? I’m sure you’ve faced that dilemma before. Well, instead of feeling like all is lost, think outside the box and put yourself into the frame.

PHOTO 2

It may feel a bit strange at first to feature yourself in a photograph, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do,in order to get the shot! If you’ve never done this before, all you have to do is mount your camera on a tripod, and set it to the 10-second delayed timer. Once you press the shutter and the timer starts, get into position, and wait for the camera to do its thing.

You might want to also set your camera to take a series of shots once the ten second timer is complete, to be sure you get a suitable photograph. Many cameras have the option to use the timer, or one with continuous shots. Sometimes you might not get in place fast enough, but using a multiple shot sequence will allow you to have a couple more frames to get into position.

3 – Subject placement in adventure photography

Subject placement is extremely important in adventure photography. You want to feature your subject (the person out adventuring) in the landscape, without any distractions or limitations. Anyone viewing your adventure photograph should never be confused about where the subject is, or what they are doing.

It doesn’t matter whether your subject is close to the camera, or way off in the distance. What matters is their placement in space. So, when you’re inspecting a landscape, and trying to decide where to place your subject, always look for a solid color or a negative space to place them.

PHOTO 3

The people in the landscape will stand out against a solid color and negative space, to allow your audience to locate the subject immediately. The last thing you want when you show a photo, is someone trying to find your subject because they are right on the horizon line, or lost in a pattern of shadows.

Not only will placing your subject in negative space clearly reveal where and what your subject is, but it will also eliminate any boring spaces in the photograph’s composition.

4 – Choose a better perspective

Perspective, or point of view, in photography ia always important when you’re trying to show a scene more creatively. Think about it; everyone walks around all day seeing everything at eye level. So, if you want to show something differently, shoot a perspective that isn’t at eye level.

Getting lower to the ground gives your subject in adventure photography a larger than life feel. This is usually shot with a wide angle lens, to fit a low perspective foreground, and the landscape into one photograph. Low perspectives show the importance of a person or activity, more than the landscape surrounding them.

PHOTO 4

Higher perspectives feature the landscape more than the subject, making the natural elements of the frame seem larger than they actually are in reality. These points of view are usually used to look down on your subject, while allowing you to show more of a landscape as well.

5 – Show scale

Do you remember doing science projects in school where you’d have to collect photo evidence of your specimen, by placing a pencil or coin next to it to show its size? Well, that’s called scale. You use an object of a well-known size next to your find, to give your audience an idea of the actual size of the specimen shown.

You can actually do the exact same thing in adventure photography. Everyone knows the average size of a human. However, when you show a photograph of just a cliff, it’s difficult for someone to get a really good idea of how large the cliff actually is.

The solution is to incorporate a well-known average size (in adventure photography that would be a person) into the frame, so your audience is able to get a much better idea of how large and grand the landscape actually is. This is a tremendous composition technique to use whenever you feel absolutely dwarfed in nature.

PHOTO 5

6 – Think about using silhouettes

Silhouettes are another great technique that you can use in adventure photography. Whenever you’re stuck in a bad lighting situation, one that has too much dynamic range to be able to capture both your subject and the landscape in good light, go directly for the silhouette shot.

To use silhouettes effectively in adventure photography, place your subject on a solid line within the scene. This could be either a horizontal or a vertical line. For example, you could place your subject on a hiking trail, or on a vertical wall, while rock climbing. Next, compliment your subject by placing an interesting background behind them, such as a forest or sunset.

The key to an effective complementary background is to create a composition that features your subject first. This goes back to what you learned on subject placement in adventure photography. Never overpower the subject of the photograph by hiding them in a complementary background.

PHOTO 6

7 – Make your audience jealous

Lastly, make your audience jealous with your adventure photography. Compose an adventure photograph in a way that makes people want to go where you went, and do what you did. The overall goal of adventure photography is to get people outside, exploring new places.

Let your audience live vicariously through your photography. When you’re able to do that, you’ve definitely stepped up your adventure photography game.

PHOTO 7

So, by all means, get out and document your adventures!

Do you have any other adventure photography tips to share? Or perhaps some of your favorite adventure photography images? Please do so in the comments below.

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Leica and Huawei announce partnership to ‘reinvent smartphone photography’

27 Feb

We’ve seen established members of the optical industry partner with smartphone makers before – Nokia high-end phones used to come with Carl Zeiss branded lenses, and Schneider Kreuznach optics have been used in various models from Chinese manufacturer Oppo. Now it seems we could soon see Leica-branded lenses and other imaging technology in Huawei smartphones. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Square

27 Feb

Shapes are everywhere, have a look around you. Do you see any squares like these images I shared previously?

Uqbar Is Back

By Uqbar is back

Weekly Photography Challenge – Square

There are many ways you could choose to approach this week’s challenge. You could take it literally and photograph:

  • Things which are square shaped
  • Images cropped into a square format
  • Patterns that include squares

Or you could take it a bit more off-beat and go for:

  • Squares as in city parks or plazas, and things that take place there
  • A person or thing which is a bit odd as in the old hippy phrase “He’s a square”
  • Something that happens directly, or shooting square on to the subject
Philippa Willitts

By Philippa Willitts

Tom Waterhouse

By Tom Waterhouse

Uwe Potthoff

By Uwe Potthoff

Eivind Barstad Waaler

By Eivind Barstad Waaler

Gianmaria Zanotti

By Gianmaria Zanotti

Steve Bailey

By Steve Bailey

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

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ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed Guide for Product Photography

24 Feb

Who said you have to be a professional photographer to take a good picture—but wait, a great product image requires more than just lights, aim and shoot! When you are shooting products to sell on your ecommerce store, you want to achieve the best results possible. A remarkable product image can give your online store a professional look that tells Continue Reading

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How to Choose the Best Lens for Travel and Street Photography

23 Feb

If you were to ask me what the best lens for street and travel photography is, the first thing I would advise you to do, is to think about what you need from the lens. In my case, the following criteria are important to me –  your list, of course, may differ.

  • The lens should be small, lightweight, and unobtrusive.
  • The optical quality must be excellent.
  • Autofocus performance needs to be very good.
  • As I sometimes shoot in low light, a wide aperture is a must.

Best lens for street and travel photography

These criteria should point to several lenses that may be suitable for you. Perhaps you own these lenses already – in which case the next step is to take them out into the street, and take some photos with them. This is important, because you may find that in practice, the lens you prefer to use is different from the one you thought might be best.

For example, you may think that a zoom lens will come in useful because of the convenience of being able to quickly adjust focal length. But in reality, find that you prefer a prime lens with a wider aperture for shooting in low light, or using selective focus.

On the other hand, you may be approaching this exercise with the intent of choosing a lens to buy. It’s difficult to test a lens if you don’t already own it, although you may be able to borrow or rent it. If you can’t do that, the next best thing to do is to go online and do some research. Read some reviews of the lens. Look for articles written by photographers whose photos you like, who also use the lens you’re considering. Go onto Flickr and see if there is a group dedicated to the lens. Explore some good quality forums, ask the members if anybody owns the lens, and what they think of it.

My favorite lens

By now you are probably wondering what is my favorite lens for street and photography. The answer is – the Fujinon 35mm f/1.4 lens. To be honest, this has come as a surprise to me. When I first bought into the Fujifilm camera system, I thought that I would either prefer a short telephoto lens (such as the 56mm f/1.2) or a moderate wide-angle (like the 18mm f/2 pancake lens) for street and travel photography.

But in practice, I’ve found that I prefer the 35mm. It has received a lot of praise since it was released with the X-Pro-1 several years ago, and is a standard prime lens (for APS-C cameras). The angle-of-view is very similar to that of a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera, or a 25mm lens on a Micro four-thirds camera.

So, why has this lens worked so well for me? The short answer is that it is extremely versatile. I prefer to take the simple approach to street photography, and that means reducing the number of choices that I have to make. Using a prime means I don’t have to think about focal length, yet the versatility of this lens means I can use it a number of different ways.

For example, when photographing people I can keep my distance and frame the person in the context of their environment.

Best lens for street and travel photography

Or I can get closer and concentrate more on the person.

Best lens for street and travel photography

I can also get close to the subject for a tight detail shot, like this one.

Best lens for street and travel photography

Standard lenses for street photography

Working distance is a term used in macro and close-up photography to describe how far the lens is from the subject. You can apply this concept to street, and travel photography too. If you are using a telephoto lens, you will be farther away from the subject. That’s great for not being noticed, but it can also lead to a kind of detached feeling in the image. The viewer can tell you weren’t close to the action, and there may be a sense of lack of involvement in the scene.

A wide-angle lens forces you to get in closer to fill the frame. The closer you get to somebody on the street, the more likely they are to notice you, and react to the camera in some way. This is not necessarily a bad thing (Bruce Gilden has taken this confrontational style to an extreme) and using a wide-angle lens definitely shows involvement in the life of the street. It’s also an approach you can take if you like to go up to people, and ask permission to take their photo first.

The standard lens falls in-between these two extremes. It lets you get close enough to be involved in the scene, but not so close that people are overly bothered by what you are doing. It helps you blend in to what is a very common thing these days – people taking photos on the street (although most often with camera phones, not actual cameras).

Best lens for street and travel photography

By the way, all the photos in this article were taken in the Spanish city of Cadiz, and I wanted to show the people in context, with the historical buildings in the background, in at least some of the photos. The 35mm lens worked very well for this.

So, for me, the 35mm lens is a clear favorite for travel and street photography. But, what about you? What lenses do you prefer to use? Please let me know in the comments, I’d like to hear your thoughts.


Mastering Lenses photography ebookMastering Lenses

My new ebook Mastering Lenses: A Photographer’s Guide to Creating Beautiful Photos With Any Lens shows you how to get the best from the lenses you own already. A comprehensive guide to exploring the creative potential potential of wide-angle, normal and telephoto lenses, it’s also the ultimate buying guide for readers thinking about purchasing a new lens for their camera. Please click the link to learn more or buy.

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