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Posts Tagged ‘Images’

A New View: 65+ Illuminating Larger-Than-Life Macro Images

02 May

[ By Steph in Art & Photography & Video. ]

Screen Shot 2016-05-01 at 3.04.12 PM

Few of us would ever get a glimpse of the tiniest rope-like iridescent quills on a peacock’s feather, the scales on a moth’s wing, dew droplets on a spider’s eyes or the planetary patterns on a bubble of soap if not for the macro photographers who carefully document details too small for the naked eye to see. It’s almost as if we’ve shrunk small enough to stare an arachnid in the face, or put ourselves in danger of being trapped by a carnivorous plant.

Spiders by Jimmy Kong
macro spider 1

macro spider 2

macro spider 3

macro spider 4

Six to eight spider eyes stare back at you, reflecting the image of a camera lens, the human holding it, and sometimes a light. Photographer Jimmy Kong captures images of all sorts of creatures, but his spiders seem to have so much personality, watching curiously as he gets close enough to spot the tiny hairs on their legs.

Butterfly and Moth Wings by Linden Gledhill
macro butterfly wings 1

macro butterfly wings 2

macro butterfly wings 3

macro butterfly wings 4

Tiny overlapping scales reminiscent of flower petals reveal the smallest details of their shapes and vivid colors in a series of macro butterfly and moth wings by Linden Gledhill, a biochemist by training.

Coral & Other Sea Life by Daniel Stoupin
macro coral 1

macro coral 2

macro coral 3

150,000 shots went into this video documenting the secret lives of ‘slow’ marine animals like coral and sponges, their movements being too small to be seen without a time lapse. Says Bioquest Studios, “Why so many? Because macro photography involves shallow depth of field. To extend it, we used focus tacking and deconvolution algorithms. Each frame of the video is actually a stack that consists of 3-12 shots. just the intro and last scene are regular real-time footage.”

Peacock Feathers by Waldo Nell
macro peacock 1

macro peacock 2

macro peacock 3

macro peacock 4

Go closer and closer and closer to a peacock feather, and the level of detail and color variation only gets more intense, with the smallest parts revealing themselves to be tiny ropes. Photographer Waldo Nell used an Olympus BX 53 microscope to take hundreds of individual shots, combining them to get the images seen here to get the depth of field that is typically lost in this kind of photography.

Carnivorous Plants by Joni Niemelä
macro carnivorous 1

macro carnivorous 2

macro carnivorous 3

macro carnivorous 4

The sticky insect-baiting appendages of carnivorous plants get a good inspection in all their alien beauty in this series by Joni Niemelä. Each photo offers a different view of the Drosera plant, commonly known as the ‘sundew.’

Next Page – Click Below to Read More:
A New View 65 Illuminating Larger Than Life Macro Images

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[ By Steph in Art & Photography & Video. ]

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25 Dilapidated Images of Urban Decay and Grunge

29 Apr

Many photographers are fascinated with old things, the more decayed and falling apart the better. Urban decay and grunge is a popular subject for photographers in cities. Some go out of their way to find abandoned buildings and little known spots.

Perhaps like these images:

Wayne Stadler

By Wayne Stadler

Vincent Ferron

By Vincent Ferron

RAFFI YOUREDJIAN

By RAFFI YOUREDJIAN

Ghalam_DAR

By ghalam_DAR

Anna S.

By Anna S.

Claudia M Eastman

By Claudia M Eastman

Nano Anderson

By Nano Anderson

Simon Samuelsson

By Simon Samuelsson

OlavXO

By olavXO

Howard Ignatius

By Howard Ignatius

Freaktography

By Freaktography

Freaktography

By Freaktography

Andre Valente

By Andre Valente

Freaktography

By Freaktography

Pietromassimo Pasqui

By Pietromassimo Pasqui

Maurizio

By Maurizio

Oreste Messina

By Oreste Messina

Maurizio

By Maurizio

Mariyan Dimitrov

By Mariyan Dimitrov

Daniel Go

By Daniel Go

Kamil Dziedzina

By Kamil Dziedzina

Darkday

By darkday

Darkday

By darkday

Guillaume DELEBARRE (Guigui-Lille)

By Guillaume DELEBARRE (Guigui-Lille)

Thomas Hawk

By Thomas Hawk

 

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28 Diverse Images That Showcase People Photography

23 Apr

People have a diverse range of emotions, styles, and looks and capturing that with a camera is the photographer’s job. From posed studio portraits, to street photography or candid shots, getting the character and essence of a person in an image is the goal. Let’s see how these photographers did with people photography:

United Nations Photo

By United Nations Photo

Darlene Hildebrandt

By Darlene Hildebrandt

Jim O'Connell

By Jim O’Connell

Darlene Hildebrandt

By Darlene Hildebrandt

Shahab

By Shahab

Tyrone Daryl

By Tyrone Daryl

Fouquier ?

By Fouquier ?

Sebastian Rieger

By Sebastian Rieger

Khánh Hmoong

By Khánh Hmoong

Christopher Michel

By Christopher Michel

Astrid Westvang

By astrid westvang

David Stanley

By David Stanley

Eric Montfort

By Eric Montfort

Chryssa Kotsanidou

By Chryssa Kotsanidou

T W I N K A

By T W I N K A

Enki22

By enki22

Tilman Haerdle

By Tilman Haerdle

Elena Penkova

By Elena Penkova

Monique Prater

By Monique Prater

Ivan Constantin

By Ivan Constantin

Michael Salvato

By Michael Salvato

Kannan Muthuraman

By Kannan Muthuraman

Hernán Piñera

By Hernán Piñera

Meena Kadri

By Meena Kadri

Rod Waddington

By Rod Waddington

Rod Waddington

By Rod Waddington

Meena Kadri

By Meena Kadri

Umberto De Peppo Cocco

By Umberto De Peppo Cocco

People photography week

This week on dPS we’re featuring articles all about different kinds of people photography including portrait, event and travel photography. See all the previous ones below, and watch for more people photography articles over the next few days.

  • How to Take Low Key Head-shots
  • How to Do a One Light Portrait Setup and Use it as Your Back-up Plan
  • Travel People Photography – Tips and Pitfalls
  • 8 Tips for Photographing Men

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The post 28 Diverse Images That Showcase People Photography by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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4 Steps on How to Read Images and Learn to Replicate the Results

18 Apr

Earlier, I wrote an article called: why asking what camera settings were used may not be as helpful as you think, and in it, I touched on the concept of reading an image.

Learning to read images – from a technical perspective and not a conceptual one – is something that I believe all photographers must be able to do, as it allows you to get a rough guide on what settings may have been used to create an image. They won’t be the exact settings; but you’re most likely not going to have the exact same lighting environment as what a particular photo was taken in.

Shallow Apeture 1

A wide aperture was used her to achieve a shallow depth of field.

Dive in to read an image

To begin reading images you must have, at the very least, a good understanding of aperture, shutter speed and to a lesser extent, ISO. You’ll want to understand how these things affect the image in different ways. For example, if you saw an image with a lot of motion blur, you would know from your understanding of shutter speed that a slower shutter speed was used.

As you become more proficient with lighting and off-camera flash, you can even read how the subject was lit with artificial lighting, and begin to replicate how it was done. But don’t worry! This article will be focussing on the three major aspects of photography exposure (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) to help you begin your journey to reading images.

Slow Shutter 2

What shutter speed was used here – a fast or slow one?

Step 1: Shutter Speed – Fast or Slow?

I find that determining whether a fast or slow shutter speed was used first, can help greatly when it comes to determining aperture and ISO later. The first thing you will want to ask yourself when assessing shutter speed is; was it fast or slow? This can be decided by how much, or how little, motion blur is present in the image, as that is what shutter speed controls.

If everything in the image is pin sharp, and there is absolutely no motion blur at all, then a fast shutter speed would have been used. However, if there is a lot of motion blur, then a slow shutter speed was used.
Here are some points that you can take out of knowing if the shutter speed is fast or slow:

Shutter Speed Table

But how fast is a fast shutter speed, and at what point does the shutter speed become slow? To answer this, think of your shutter speed in relation to your subject’s speed. For example, when photographing sports or other fast action, you may find using a shutter speed of 1/1000th is required to freeze your subjects. This is because your subjects are moving quite fast. However, if you were to photograph people walking down the street, you would not need the same shutter speed, as your subjects are not moving as fast.

Below are examples of slow and fast shutter speeds. Notice the presence of motion blur in the images where a slower shutter speed was used, but action is frozen with a fast shutter speed. In images that will use a slow shutter speed, it is often recommended you use a tripod to stabilize your camera, and prevent camera shake.

What isn’t important is knowing the exact shutter speed; that is something that you will be able to experiment with to get the results you want. All you are doing here is identifying if a slow or fast shutter speed was used, to give you a starting point.

Slow Shutter 3

A tripod was used when taking this photograph to prevent blur that can be caused by camera shake. The shutter speed was 3.2 seconds.

Slow Shutter 4

The reason there is one rider sharper than the others in this frame, is because even though all riders are moving at the same speed, the rider who is sharpest is moving slower, relative to where I was positioned taking this photograph. The shutter speed used here was 1/6th.

Fast Shutter 2

Notice how everything is sharp in this image, and there is no blur? This means that a fast shutter speed was used (in this case 1/2000th), and because the subject is quite fast, a faster than normal shutter speed was needed.

Fast Shutter 1

Again, notice how everything is sharp and there is no blur? This means that a fast shutter speed (1/1250th) was once again used.

Step 2: Aperture – Large or Small?

In step one I mentioned that determining whether a fast or slow shutter speed was used first, can greatly help you in determining the aperture. Here’s why. If you are familiar with the exposure triangle you will know that in nearly all cases when a fast shutter speed is used, it is associated with a large aperture (small f-number). Conversely, the slower the shutter speed, the smaller the aperture becomes. So if you see a photo that has motion blur present, it is highly likely that the photographer used a smaller aperture; or if you see a photo where moving objects are frozen, the photographer has most likely used a larger aperture to enable a faster shutter speed.

Another way you can determine the aperture is by looking for bokeh, or subject isolation. The more bokeh that is present in the image, the more the subject is isolated. To achieve this, the photographer would use a larger aperture. On the other hand, if everything in the image is in focus, then the photographer employed a smaller aperture to increase their depth of field.

Small Aperture 1

Everything in this photograph is in focus, which would mean that a small aperture (larger f-number; like f/11 in this image) was used to increase the depth of field.

Shallow Aperture 2

Notice how the background in this image is blurred out a lot, and the subject is very isolated? This is a sign that a larger aperture (small f-number; in this example f/3.5) was used to decrease the depth of field.

Step 3: ISO

ISO is one of the parameters that isn’t so important in determining what settings may have been used when reading an image. Use ISO to get the settings that you need to use, to create the shot you want. For example, if you want to use the slowest shutter speed you can, set your camera’s ISO to its lowest setting. Conversely, if you want to use a very fast shutter speed, you may find that you have to increase your ISO.

Step 4: Focal Length

Focal length is something that is often overlooked in images, but it is a very important element indeed. It does more than simply allow a photograph to add more in the frame, or zoom in closer. Different focal lengths evoke different emotions in the viewer when looking at an image. For instance, if a wide angle lens was used, it places the viewer in the scene and can make them feel like they were there; whereas a longer focal length places the viewer further away from the subject, and evokes a more voyeur emotion.

The great thing about focal length is that it is quite easy to distinguish approximately which one was used. To make it simpler, breaking down focal lengths in to three groups can help greatly.

  • Wide: <50mm (i.e. 14-50mm on full frame, 10-35mm on cropped or APS-C sensor)
  • Normal: ~50mm-85mm (35-56mm cropped sensor)
  • Telephoto: 85mm+ (130mm+ on cropped sensor)

You can use the presence of compression to distinguish the different types of focal length. A wide angle lens accentuates the foreground and increases distances in the frame, as well as having a very wide field of view. This effect increases as the focal length decreases – or gets wider. On the other end, a telephoto lens will give you much more compression, and make distances in the frame look shorter. Their field of view will decrease, and the affects of aperture, particularly larger apertures, will be more pronounced. That’s why f/2.8 at 16mm looks different than f/2.8 at 200mm, if your subject is kept the same size in the frame.

Here is a small table with examples of the same scene photographed from the same point, but with different focal lengths.

Image courtesy of Canon

Image courtesy of Canon

Now you have had a quick introduction on how to read images. Remember, knowing the exact settings is not important, but knowing how to get an approximate guess is better than not knowing anything at all! With experience, you will become more proficient at reading images, and will be able to guess with more precision. The more you understand aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, the better you will be at reading images.

Along the way, you will also learn that different genres within photography use a different set of settings. For example, most landscape photographers will use smaller apertures, lower ISOs, and slower shutter speeds; whereas sports shooters for instance, will generally use higher ISOs, larger apertures, and faster shutter speeds.

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The post 4 Steps on How to Read Images and Learn to Replicate the Results by Daniel Smith appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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14 Essential Rain Photography Tips for Creating Dramatic Images

16 Apr

Wherever you travel, you are always free to take that perfect shot from the best angle. Not when it’s pouring down heavily, though. Winter is not always the best climate for comfortable outdoor photography. But guess what, if you are a clever photographer, you can take even better photos in the rain than on sunny days. Cold and stormy weather Continue Reading

The post 14 Essential Rain Photography Tips for Creating Dramatic Images appeared first on Photodoto.


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Impossible Photography: 15 Reality-Bending Images Defy Logic

12 Apr

[ By Steph in Art & Photography & Video. ]

erik johansson 1

A floor is a ceiling, a lake is made of shattered glass, carpets of grass cascade over the edge of the world and buildings sprout wheels and wander away in the fantastically surreal world of Erik Johansson. The photographer has spent much of the last decade refining his reality-bending image manipulation techniques, combining dozens of real photos to create effects that are often hyperrealistic yet physically impossible. As unlikely as it may seem, Johansson uses no CGI, stock photos or digital illustrations in his work – each image is a complex collage of his own photographs, captured on his Hasselblad HD5-40 camera.

erik johansson 12

erik johansson 13

erik johansson 14

On his YouTube channel, the artist offers behind-the-scenes videos for many of his works so we can see just how each one is assembled. For his newest piece, ‘Impact,’ Johansson carefully cut four massive mirrors into fragments, arranged them in a field and photographed his model standing among them in a kayak. Photos from this shoot are ultimately blended with images of a lake and additional studio photos of cracked mirror shards.

erik johansson 2

erik johansson 3

erik johansson 4

erik johansson 5

erik johansson 6

Depicting just about every step the artist takes during the process, the videos are just as impressive as the final images and make it clear that the arduous process requires many hours of retouching. Johansson even leaves in the parts where he experiments with various effects and ideas that don’t make it to the final version.

erik johansson 7

erik johansson 8

erik johansson 9

erik johansson 10

As he explains on his website, Johansson is interested in capturing ideas rather than moments, but with the goal of making each one look as realistic as possible, saying “The only thing that limits us is our imagination.”

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30 Action Packed Panning Images

09 Apr

Adding a feeling of motion to your images by using a slow shutter speed can be very effective. One technique to do that is panning, where you move the camera to match the subject and it blurs the background and keeps the subject relatively sharp.

You can pan just about anything that’s moving. Let’s see what these photographers found that they could pan:

Ram Reddy

By ram reddy

VR46

By VR46

Jamie McCaffrey

By Jamie McCaffrey

Flavio~

By Flavio~

Angus

By Angus

Amira_a

By amira_a

Lain

By Lain

Jamie Manktelow

By Jamie Manktelow

Silke Remmery

By Silke Remmery

Spreketek

By spreketek

Carlo Scherer

By Carlo Scherer

Darlene Hildebrandt

By Darlene Hildebrandt

Howard Ignatius

By Howard Ignatius

Msomm

By msomm

Mark Brooks

By Mark Brooks

Angelo Domini

By Angelo Domini

Melissa Himpe

By Melissa Himpe

Alex Matravers

By Alex Matravers

Jan Buchholtz

By jan buchholtz

DFSB DE

By DFSB DE

Groman123

By Groman123

Damianos  Chronakis

By Damianos Chronakis

AmaruDaiKyoko

By AmaruDaiKyoko

David Atkinson

By David Atkinson

Cocoa Dream

By Cocoa Dream

Al_HikesAZ

By Al_HikesAZ

Moisés  Silva Lima

By Moisés Silva Lima

Mbtrama

By mbtrama

Al_HikesAZ

By Al_HikesAZ

Angela N.

By angela n.

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The post 30 Action Packed Panning Images by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Critique Your Images Objectively: Ask for Other Points of View

08 Apr

What happens when you ask 150 people to look at the same photos and pick their favourites? The answer is simple: a pattern emerges. But which pattern emerges can be very surprising, as I found out recently.

Last year I decided to self-publish a photo book on Spain. I’d been wanting to do it for years. When the crowd-funding website Kickstarter announced it was opening up shop in Spain, where I live, I took it as a sign and made sure my project was uploaded the day they opened.

Alhambra palace ranked number 1

#1 ranked image by my crowd-fund book supporters.

But I wanted to do something different with the book. Then it hit me – I could get supporters to be a part of the process by choosing which photos would go in the book. I thought of it as crowd-funding meets crowdsourcing. I wanted everyone to play a role in my book. So I uploaded 240 images onto a private webpage, and gave everybody a password and a mission; chose your favourite 80 images. After the voting period was over, I tallied up the results and the top 80 images went into the book.

I was blown away by the results. Some of my personal favourites didn’t even make it in, and some other images that I didn’t think were particularly strong, ended up being extremely popular. It was very instructive. The one that stands out for me is of cows in a field beside a church in the mountains of northern Spain. I almost didn’t even include it in the original batch of 240 images. But not only did it make it into the top 80, it was the 6th most popular image!

Cows ranked 6

On the other hand, here’s a shot of a beach in the south of Spain that I quite like. But it didn’t make the cut – not even close. It ranked a mere 223rd. Fascinating!

Beach ranked 223

I think there are a number of things at play here. For one, the photographer often attaches a value to a photograph that the viewer doesn’t. If an image took repeated attempts to achieve, or was somehow difficult to get in another way — perhaps finding the right angle took hours, or maybe there was some fantastic luck involved that would be impossible for the viewer to appreciate — then it’s natural for the photographer to place a greater value on it. But the final image is what counts, and should be judged on its merits alone, which is sometimes hard for the photographer to do without bias.

Wild horse roundup ranked 133

Ranked #133

For instance, I particularly like this image of a church in the city of Salamanca. The strong graphic lines of the church’s shadow on itself, was not only dynamic because of its oblique orientation, but also offered a second yin-yang with the tourists, some in shade against the sunlight, the others in sunlight against the shade. But, it ranked only #208, again, not even close. But I find the fact it was not very popular more interesting, than disappointing. It wasn’t an obvious image to take, I had to see the opportunity first, then carefully compose, and wait for people to enter the light (and shade) at just the right time. I got it after almost an hour of waiting. Is that part of the reason I like it so much? I find that an interesting question.

Church shadows ranked 208

Of course the reverse also happens. The following image of the field of sunflowers was an easy photo to take, and much easier to spot as a photo-op, versus the church in Salamanca. Speaking as a photographer, I don’t think it’s one of my best images technically or creatively, but that doesn’t change the fact it’s a beautiful landscape. The people who look at your photos don’t (and shouldn’t) care about how hard or easy an image was to take. They either like it or they don’t. In this case, the field of sunflowers was very popular, ranking 4th overall.

Sunflowers ranked 4

Now, this doesn’t mean that you should only take photos that you think will be popular. But if you want to please a crowd with a slideshow, or a book, paying attention to what people like will make it more successful. It doesn’t matter how lucky you got, or how hard you worked to get a photo. The important thing is to try to look at it through other people’s eyes. If you enjoy sharing your images, it’s crucial to remove your own bias, and in the end it will make you a better photographer.

Editor’s note: How you can go about using this new knowledge without making a book? You can try posting a set of images as a collection on Facebook and ask people to rank their favorites. Or post a color and black and white of the same image and ask people which they prefer. Why not go ahead and try it here – post some photos in the comments below and rank each others images. How else can you look at your image objectively? 

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The post How to Critique Your Images Objectively: Ask for Other Points of View by Mike Randolph appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Critique Your Images Objectively: Ask for Other Points of View

07 Apr

What happens when you ask 150 people to look at the same photos and pick their favourites? The answer is simple: a pattern emerges. But which pattern emerges can be very surprising, as I found out recently.

Last year I decided to self-publish a photo book on Spain. I’d been wanting to do it for years. When the crowd-funding website Kickstarter announced it was opening up shop in Spain, where I live, I took it as a sign and made sure my project was uploaded the day they opened.

Alhambra palace ranked number 1

#1 ranked image by my crowd-fund book supporters.

But I wanted to do something different with the book. Then it hit me – I could get supporters to be a part of the process by choosing which photos would go in the book. I thought of it as crowd-funding meets crowdsourcing. I wanted everyone to play a role in my book. So I uploaded 240 images onto a private webpage, and gave everybody a password and a mission; chose your favourite 80 images. After the voting period was over, I tallied up the results and the top 80 images went into the book.

I was blown away by the results. Some of my personal favourites didn’t even make it in, and some other images that I didn’t think were particularly strong, ended up being extremely popular. It was very instructive. The one that stands out for me is of cows in a field beside a church in the mountains of northern Spain. I almost didn’t even include it in the original batch of 240 images. But not only did it make it into the top 80, it was the 6th most popular image!

Cows ranked 6

On the other hand, here’s a shot of a beach in the south of Spain that I quite like. But it didn’t make the cut – not even close. It ranked a mere 223rd. Fascinating!

Beach ranked 223

I think there are a number of things at play here. For one, the photographer often attaches a value to a photograph that the viewer doesn’t. If an image took repeated attempts to achieve, or was somehow difficult to get in another way — perhaps finding the right angle took hours, or maybe there was some fantastic luck involved that would be impossible for the viewer to appreciate — then it’s natural for the photographer to place a greater value on it. But the final image is what counts, and should be judged on its merits alone, which is sometimes hard for the photographer to do without bias.

Wild horse roundup ranked 133

Ranked #133

For instance, I particularly like this image of a church in the city of Salamanca. The strong graphic lines of the church’s shadow on itself, was not only dynamic because of its oblique orientation, but also offered a second yin-yang with the tourists, some in shade against the sunlight, the others in sunlight against the shade. But, it ranked only #208, again, not even close. But I find the fact it was not very popular more interesting, than disappointing. It wasn’t an obvious image to take, I had to see the opportunity first, then carefully compose, and wait for people to enter the light (and shade) at just the right time. I got it after almost an hour of waiting. Is that part of the reason I like it so much? I find that an interesting question.

Church shadows ranked 208

Of course the reverse also happens. The following image of the field of sunflowers was an easy photo to take, and much easier to spot as a photo-op, versus the church in Salamanca. Speaking as a photographer, I don’t think it’s one of my best images technically or creatively, but that doesn’t change the fact it’s a beautiful landscape. The people who look at your photos don’t (and shouldn’t) care about how hard or easy an image was to take. They either like it or they don’t. In this case, the field of sunflowers was very popular, ranking 4th overall.

Sunflowers ranked 4

Now, this doesn’t mean that you should only take photos that you think will be popular. But if you want to please a crowd with a slideshow, or a book, paying attention to what people like will make it more successful. It doesn’t matter how lucky you got, or how hard you worked to get a photo. The important thing is to try to look at it through other people’s eyes. If you enjoy sharing your images, it’s crucial to remove your own bias, and in the end it will make you a better photographer.

Editor’s note: How you can go about using this new knowledge without making a book? You can try posting a set of images as a collection on Facebook and ask people to rank their favorites. Or post a color and black and white of the same image and ask people which they prefer. Why not go ahead and try it here – post some photos in the comments below and rank each others images. How else can you look at your image objectively? 

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How to Use Clouds to Enhance and Improve Your Images

07 Apr

Siberian Husky, 7 months old, male, white, lying on a hill with dramatic sky

Many photographers enjoy taking pictures of clouds, and it’s easy to see why. From the vivid patterns and brilliant sunset formations, to the storm clouds and unusual styles, there’s almost always something interesting happening in the sky. While there’s no doubt that clouds can make great subjects in their own right, I feel that they are most useful, photographically speaking when they’re used as backgrounds for other subjects. The proper use of clouds in an image can add texture, dimension, and drama to many photos, while enhancing or serving as an additional storytelling feature for your main subject.

Making clouds work for you in this way usually requires a little bit of planning, some location scouting (always fun!), the right subject, and, course, keeping a sharp eye on the sky for weather that will produce great clouds. Let’s get started!

Clouds = texture

First let’s examine how clouds can turn boring into brilliant. This image below of a Whippet was taken on a hill, on a clear day without any clouds at all. The plain blue background is striking, but the solid color perhaps lacks interest:

Whippet, portrait on hill

Now consider this shot, taken of the same dog back in the same location, but on a day with large summer clouds. The difference is immediately obvious – the clouds add some much-needed texture and drama, elevating this image above the plain blue version (and earned it a spot in an upcoming Whippet calendar).

Whippet, portrait on hill

A good landscape photo can also often benefit from some cloudy texture:

Farm fencing, fields, clouds

Reach for the sky

Finding a way to include clouds behind the subject is one of those photographic puzzles that we have to solve from time to time. Often, the key is to figure out how to raise the subject, or lower yourself. A great way to do this is to utilize a hill. Generally, the bigger the hill, the better, but even tiny knolls and rises can work.

Here’s a shot taken on a large hill, where I was able to get much lower than the horses.

Herd of horses grazing on hill, clouds

The hill blocks out anything distracting, and gives the photo a clean horizon line. But again, if this was just a blank, blue sky, the photo wouldn’t be as interesting, and wouldn’t pack as much of a punch. The clouds provide added texture, and help balance out the top of the photo.

Now here’s a photo where the subject was on just a tiny rise.

DJ-SM-20-159

Getting this shot required a little extra work on my part, as I had to get myself and my camera down close to ground and look up, but it worked. What you can’t see is that there were actually a lot of distracting elements all around the scene, that I was able to remove just by getting down low. A big part of photography is understanding what not to include in the viewfinder.

You can also take advantage of subjects that are already higher than you are.

Person pitching loose hay on haywagon with tractor, clouds in sky

Person pitching loose hay on wagon with tractor, clouds in sky.

Silhouettes optional

Remember, not all subjects against a sky have to be black silhouettes. Because the horses and clouds are being lit with the same light, from the same direction, detail and color remain consistent for both. In the case of the Whippet image, I used a large reflector board to illuminate her body, until her brightness matched the sky and clouds, preventing the Whippet from becoming underexposed.

Storytelling

It’s great to be able to use clouds as a storytelling device. Let’s look at a few examples of this:

Windmill on farm with clouds

I thought the big weathervane was an interesting subject, but the terrific approaching storm clouds were what really made me look twice. The weathervane says “weather,” but the subject combined with some actual weather maybe suggests the question, “What’s going to happen when the storm comes?”

How about this one?

Two cowgirls on hill with dramatic clouds and fencing

Again, even though the clouds aren’t the star, they’re still pulling their weight composition-wise, and add a lot of drama and balance to this shot. The cowgirls and their fence may be the main subject, but the clouds are adding some storytelling, too. It looks like rain, is that good? Do the cowgirls want rain, or not? It’s all up to the viewer to decide.

Girl on farm hill with clouds and stormy skies

Increase depth of field

If you’re using a telephoto lens, or if you’re close to your subject, you may want to stop your lens down a bit to increase your depth of field and keep your cloudy background looking distinct. If you would normally shoot a portrait at f/4 or f/5.6 for instance, try using f/11 or f/16 to help retain cloud detail.

Colorful clouds

One last takeaway, remember that clouds aren’t always white and grey. As with all types of outdoor photography, the golden hours can be your friend. In the case of clouds, a great sunrise or sunset can make the clouds turn red, pink, and orange. Don’t necessarily shoot towards the sun either, look on the opposite side of the sky to find more subtle, but still beautiful, colors.

Moon and clouds

Got a favorite image with a cloudy background?

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