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More Ways to Create Better Images Without Buying More Gear

28 Jul

Jay Maisel has to be one of the most interesting photographers alive today. He is 85 years old and he still makes a point of carrying his camera with him every day, everywhere he goes. I recently watched a few videos where Scott Kelby spent a few days with Jay, just wandering through the streets of New York and later, walking through Paris.

In these two different videos, Jay imparts his photography philosophy, and how he makes his images. The remarkable thing I noticed is that Jay almost never talks about photography equipment. Rather, he speaks about technique, about getting it right in camera, and making sure you spend time getting the best shot possible.

This article is a follow on from an article I did a while ago, which had a similar title to this one – 5 Ways to Create Better Images Without Buying More Gear. I now want to expand on that and add 5 more things you can do to improve your photography without buying more gear.

#1 Show the viewer something different

This is something really important that, but we don’t often think about. There are so many things being photographed every day.

5 more things image 8

Think about this: if you go to Paris, you will no doubt want a photo of the Eiffel Tower. Of course, every photographer does. The challenge is, we have all seen photographs of the Eiffel Tower, so, how will your image be different from anyone else’s? Better still, how will you make the image look like it is taken from a new vantage point or angle.

These are the tough questions, the things that we need to think about as photographers. You could try a few things, go in really close and get some detailed shots of the metal structure, find an area of it that is looking old and grungy, maybe try and shoot it from a very extreme angle, work hard to show your viewer something they haven’t seen before.

Think of the photos you have seen of the Eiffel Tower. If your image looks like any of those shots, then you need to try something different. The goal here is not to be different for the sake of being so, but to try and be unique.

Of course, you should shoot the usual postcard shot, at least you have that, but then play around, walk around, lie on the ground, shoot straight up, put your camera lens against the structure, try anything to get an angle that you have never seen before.

Show me something I have never seen before. – Jay Maisel

Look for something you have not seen before

This is one of Jay Maisel’s key messages, “Show me something I have never seen before”. He is not being flippant, we have all seen a car, a tree, a glass building, and people on the street. What he is looking for is to be shown these everyday subjects in a different way, that’s the key to this principle.

#2 Practice patience

In the video with Jay Maisel, he mentions that he was once out doing street photography with another well known photographer. As a typical New Yorker, he was walking at a pretty quick pace. After some time, the other photographer turned to him and said, “Jay, do you know why you aren’t getting any good shots? You’re walking too quickly”.

That comment caused Jay to slow down. Not only did he slow down his walking pace, but he slowed everything. He would stop in a place for five or 10 minutes. He would find a scene he liked and then, like a theatre stage, he would wait for the actors to appear, the people on the street. So he stands in a particular spot sometimes, for up to 20 minutes, and just waits for something to happen.

Sitting and waiting can result in some great images

Sitting and waiting can result in some great images

Give it a try. Next time you are out photographing in your city, stop for a while. Observe the scene in front of you. Make note of how people are moving through that scene, and start looking for an opportunity to make an image. It may take a while, if you can, sit down and just watch, pretty soon, the right person will enter your “stage” and you will have your image.

#3 Change your composition

We all know about the rule of thirds, very often it is our first introduction to composition. It’s a good starting point for creating good composition, but there are many other ways to make your images look compelling.

Composition is one area of photography that can make a vast difference in your images. Simply changing from landscape to portrait orientation for example. More than that, look a little deeper. There are some great techniques you can use to enhance your composition.

5 more things image 10

One of these is using depth of field. A shallow depth of field will isolate your subject and make the background less distracting. Speaking of backgrounds, make sure that you have looked at the background in your image and that there is nothing distracting that will take the viewer’s eye off the subject.

You could also try and frame your subject using a door frame, a window, or some overarching trees. The frame will point the viewer to the subject and, if done correctly, framing can be a very powerful compositional tool.

Remember to change your viewpoint. Lie on the ground, get as low as you can, or maybe get up as high as possible. If your viewpoint is unusual, your subject will benefit immensely.

Shooting from a different viewpoint can make all the difference

Shooting from a different viewpoint can make all the difference

#4 Go out empty

Another piece of Jay Maisel wisdom is to go out empty, and let your images fill you up. What does that mean?

Very often, you may go out on a shoot and are “hunting” for a particular image. Maybe you are looking for a man with a blue shirt riding a red bicycle, which is pretty specific, and really difficult to find. The challenge is that if you are looking for only that one type of shot, you may miss all the others that are out there.

By going out empty, you are open to whatever comes into your viewfinder. You may get a shot that you never thought of before or have seen before, that’s the point. Sometimes it is good to shoot with constraints, it forces you to be creative.

 

By going out empty, you may be surprised at what you will see

By going out empty, you may be surprised at what you will see

At other times, go out without any limitations, simply look at what unfolds in front of you and shoot whatever you find interesting. That’s one way to get some great shots. Also, be open to what happens while you are out shooting.

I was photographing in an old area in the East Side of Vancouver. A lady came up to me and asked what I was doing, and I told her I was looking for some great shots of the homes in the area. She asked if I wanted to see inside her home, I am so glad she invited me. Her home was amazing, and it was a great opportunity to see inside a true heritage home.

#5 It’s not about cropping, but about framing

As photographers, we can become a little lazy. We will compose the shot, look at the scene, and realize we need to move a little to the left because there is something distracting in the shot. Many times, we might think, “It’s okay, I can crop that out later”.

5 more things image 9

Yes, that is true, you can crop it out later, but it may change the whole perspective of the shot. I might mean that you lose another important piece of information.

Jay Maisel reminds us that it’s about framing, not cropping. He says that it is the photographer’s responsibility for what is in the frame and, sometimes more importantly, what is NOT in the frame. Instead of assuming you can crop something out later, maybe move around the subject a bit, look at it from different angles, and then decide what needs to be in the frame and what doesn’t.

As Jay says, “The photographer is responsible for everything in the frame”. Make sure that everything that’s in the frame is there for a reason, otherwise, change it.

5 more things image 5

You are responsible for everything in the frame.

Of course there are no rules in photography, there are only guidelines. These ideas are simply suggestions that can help you improve your images, and to see more clearly. Once you begin practicing these things, you won’t have to think about them as much. You will do them instinctively, and that’s when your photography will change and become more mature.

So get out there and give these ideas a try, practice one of these suggestions on each photoshoot or photowalk you do. Keep making the changes and slowly working on your craft, and you may look back in a year and be astounded at how much your work has improved.

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The post More Ways to Create Better Images Without Buying More Gear by Barry J Brady appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Don’t Delete Your Failed Images – Instead Learn from Your Mistakes with These Tips

28 Jul

I know you’ve done it. It’s okay to admit it. I’ve done it too! We all have! You’ve shot some terrible photographs.

Perhaps you shot the whole time in the wrong white balance, or you didn’t pay attention to shutter speed and everything is blurry. When this happens it’s incredibly disappointing. Frustrated and angry with yourself, you consider the experience a write-off, and delete the images. Then you head for the snack cupboard searching for some kind of solace.

But, everyone makes mistakes when they shoot, even professionals. There are times when we get excited and forget to check our settings, or make sure we are using the right lens for the right moment. It happens.

Image 1

We were canoeing and in my rush to get an image of a small bird I underexposed the shot.

These failures don’t have to be a complete waste though. There’s nothing negative about making mistakes. Willie Nelson once said, “Once you replace negative thoughts with positive ones, you’ll start having positive results.”

So with that in mind, start looking at every photograph you take, as a step forward. Don’t delete those mistakes right away. You can learn a lot about taking good photographs from the missteps you make. I’ve met some photographers who have created a special file for all of their failures. Then when they have a little bit of time, they peruse through the collection and reflect upon them. This type of exercise can help you grow as a photographer.

There are lots of ways to reflect on your images. Some people make mental notes about their images. Others like to use a written journal format. I know of a few photographers who use the keyword section in Lightroom to make notes. I’ve even seen a detailed scrapbook in which the photographer printed out his failures and scribbled notes beside each. Just be sure to pick a format that works for you. Regularly reflecting on your work is important.

To start you down the path here’s a list of questions that you can use to help you reflect on your images.

Reflection Tips

  • In the first few seconds of viewing the photograph, what was the first emotion you experienced? Why? Now let it go. Detach from the emotion and be critical.
  • Why do you consider this image a failure? Don’t analyze too much just scribble down the first thought that comes to your mind. Try to make this part of the analysis a stream of consciousness.
  • What were your goals or intentions when you shot this image? Why were you unable to meet those goals?
  • If you could turn back time and reshoot the image what would you do differently?
  • Think carefully about the image and come up with one key piece of learning that you can take away from this experience.

Now let’s practice your reflection skills. It’s not easy to analyze your own photographs; it can take some time to perfect. Let’s analyze some of my failures, and some successes.

View each image, and really look at it in a critical sense. You can use the guiding questions from above to help you. After you’ve finished your reflection, scroll down and take a look at my notes, see if you agree with my thoughts. Perhaps you noticed something different then I did.

Image 2

What did you come up with? Keep in mind there’s no right or wrong to this whole process. Some people might argue the image isn’t a failure. I personally, hate it.

Notes about the image

  • I cut off the hockey stick, it’s bad framing.
  • She’s looking down at the puck, there is no eye contact.
  • Loss of impact or connection with the viewer.
  • The edge vignette makes it too dark.

Ways to improve

  • Mark out the ice and give players a guideline for where to stop.
  • Remind players to look at the camera at all times.
  • Remove one complication by having kids skate without the puck (Photoshop the puck into the image in post-processing).

Image 3

Compare the shot above, with the previous image. It was taken in the same arena a few months later. Do you think there’s a difference? The framing is certainly better and he makes eye contact with the camera. Have I improved over the first shot?

Let’s consider another mistake. This image was shot for a magazine article. Can you tell why it’s a fail?

Image 4

Notes about the image

  • Her face is slightly out of focus.
  • The client wanted a unique angle for the shot but the focus is on the ball.
  • The houses behind in the background don’t suggest or support that we are on a soccer field.

Ways to improve

  • Ensure the focus is on the correct part of the scene by using back button focus.
  • Always take the time to set up the scene. Remember that the background is as important as the foreground.
  • Direct the player more to remain in a certain area.

Here’s the image the magazine chose to use for the article. You can see how the background gives this image more context than the previous shot.

Image 5

The more you reflect upon your images, the more you will grow as a photographer. If you find you are stuck in a rut, this kind of activity may just be a way to move forward. Coming back to images after a few days, or weeks, is always a good idea. By separating yourself from the image it will help you to analyze it more carefully.

I’ve posted a few more images here for you to reflect upon below. Once you’ve finished analyzing my work, try it on some of your own shots. Leave some examples in the comments below, and include your reflections.

Image 6

Image 7

Image 8

This is an opportunity to grow and become a stronger photographer. I expect that everyone who shares will be heartened by the fact that they are not the only ones to have taken a bad photograph. If you choose to reply to other people’s posts, please be kind and be constructive. This is all in the name of learning, we are not here to criticize each other.

Keep in mind, even geniuses have some failures!

“I have not failed. I’ve just found 10,000 ways that won’t work.” – Thomas Edison

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The post Don’t Delete Your Failed Images – Instead Learn from Your Mistakes with These Tips by Erin Fitzgibbon appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Photographers to Get (Small) Reward for Their Creative Commons Images

19 Jul

dotspin

Image courtesy: Dotspin

Someone is benefitting from your Creative Commons-licensed images, and it probably isn’t you. Sure, you might get a little thrill out of knowing that you’re helping a designer with a small budget (or a blogger with no budget) to use an attractive image. And if you’re able to see your pictures in use, the validation can be a fun boost. But that’s a big ‘if’ and it’s pretty much where the benefits end. One new company, though, believes that photographers willing to give away their pictures should receive more for their efforts. Dotspin is trying to line up gifts for photographers who apply Creative Commons licenses to their pictures and give them away on social media sites.

The company has been online since the beginning of May and is still in beta. Its aim, says co-founder Gastón Paladini, is to reward photographers for their contributions to the Internet.

“The idea come from a vision to have a more fair web for all. We think that social media users should be recognized for good content (photos) shared and to be protected in a legal way (copyrights).”

Dotspin is connected to both Instagram and Twitter. Having signed in using an account on either one of those services, Dotspin’s users can take a picture, apply their filters and upload it to their account, tagging the image with the hashtag #dotspin.

The hashtag ensures that the photo is also submitted to Dotspin where, by default, it is licensed as Creative Commons. A settings page, however, allows photographers to change the type of license applied. Rather than selecting one of the various Creative Commons licenses in use, they’re asked whether they’re willing to allow modifications and commercial usage in addition to personal use.

The image will appear in Dotspin’s galleries watermarked with a colored dot, but not before the community has voted on it. Users are presented with two random pictures and asked which they prefer. Images that receive a large number of votes receive “dotcredits,” points which they can redeem for rewards.

At the moment those rewards come from Dotspin, based on “some agreements with Amazon.”

“But we think that soon the suppliers and brands will come to us to offer their products on the Dotspin catalogue,” says Gastón.

Put Your Ads in Front of… Picture-Takers

He may be right.  Instagram currently has more than 100 million users, offering a massive potential market for sellers looking to promote their goods. It’s likely that Dotspin will be able to find some companies who are willing to offer vouchers or freebies in the hope of turning the winners, as well as the site’s users, into future customers.

But the site will face a number of challenges too.

The first is the lack of demographic data. Awarding points that users can redeem means that suppliers can’t target their advertising. They’ll have to settle for offering their products to a demographic made up of roughly of people who like taking pictures. That’s a broad category.

The voting system, too, leaves much to be desired. At the moment, two images are placed against each other at random, forcing users to choose between a picturesque sunset and a mirror-shot selfie, for example. A voting system that pitched two images showing similar topics or that were shot in similar styles against each other might be a more serious way of judging talent.

But a bigger problem is the site’s goal itself. Gastón’s aim to reward people willing to give away their images may be fair and reasonable, but the lack of rewards on offer so far hasn’t stopped people from sharing their pictures. Flickr alone has more than a quarter of a billion photos available under one form of Creative Commons license or another. Donors of those images have made them available with no hope of reward. Gastón wouldn’t say how many photographers have signed up since the site’s beta launch but he did indicate that the numbers are “much more than we thought.”

That could be a good sign but it will be interesting to see whether Dotspin is able to capture a good chunk of the photographers willing to allow people to use their images.

Creative Commons Users Want Tracking for Their Photos, Not Thanks

The most likely outcome is that some photographers currently sharing their images through Instagram and Twitter will sign up to Dotspin and start adding the hashtag. They’ll enjoy the extra feedback provided by the voting system, especially if it’s enhanced. And if the site is able to bring in donors, they might feel a rush if they’re able to win enough credits to pick up a free app download or a discount from a printing service.

But none of those rewards is likely to have an impact on photo-sharing as a whole. They aren’t likely to encourage it and the odd prize isn’t going to come close to rewarding photographers for giving away for free an asset that costs other photographers a great deal to produce.

That’s because when photographers add a Creative Commons license they aren’t doing it for the reward. They’re doing it because they want people to use their images — even the images that few people are ever likely to use. And most of all they want to see their pictures in use.

That would have been a much more powerful reward than goodies redeemable against voted credits. If a platform were produced that highlighted the best of the most recent Creative Commons-licensed images, helped publishers, bloggers and editors to find them, and informed the photographers each time an image was downloaded and told them where it was going to be used, that would be much more rewarding.

And if that service also gave the photographers a share of the page’s revenues, then photographers who applied Creative Commons licenses to their images would really start to feel the benefits.


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27 Serene Images of the Natural World

15 Jul

This week we are doing a series of articles to help you do better nature photography. See previous articles here:

  • 3 Habits Every Outdoor Photographer Should Develop to Avoid Missing Shots
  • 5 Tips for Better Nature Photography

So here are some examples of some shots of nature to give you some ideas, or just to make you feel refreshed like a walk in the woods.

Nutmeg66

By nutmeg66

Matoff

By Matoff

Dave Edens

By Dave Edens

Anderson Mancini

By Anderson Mancini

Moyan Brenn

By Moyan Brenn

Daniel Sallai

By Daniel Sallai

Moyan Brenn

By Moyan Brenn

Susanne Nilsson

By Susanne Nilsson

M.shattock

By m.shattock

Md. Al Amin

By Md. Al Amin

Chris Gin

By Chris Gin

ELKayPics / Lutz Koch

By eLKayPics / Lutz Koch

Jack Haskell

By Jack Haskell

Hehaden

By hehaden

W. Visser

By W. Visser

Jeff Power

By Jeff Power

U.S. Department Of The Interior

By U.S. Department of the Interior

Richard Walker

By Richard Walker

Christopher Michel

By Christopher Michel

Shutter Fotos

By Shutter Fotos

Neil Howard

By Neil Howard

Jason Carpenter

By Jason Carpenter

Sri Dhanush K

By Sri Dhanush K

Massmo Relsig

By Massmo Relsig

Images By John 'K'

By Images by John ‘K’

Ravas51

By ravas51

Lenny K Photography

By Lenny K Photography

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How to Create Beautiful Light Painting Images With an Illuminated Hoop

12 Jul

Early last year I collaborated with a friend who is a professional circus performer and hula hooper to create the unique images that you see in this article.

There are lots of good light painting photos around, but the factor that sets these ones apart is that my friend Tess used something called a FutureHoop – a transparent hula hoop that has built-in lights that can be programmed to flash in different colors and patterns. It helps that Tess is a trained dancer and hooper, so she was able to create some beautiful patterns with the FutureHoop.

painting with light

You can try this technique yourself – if not with a FutureHoop then with any number of colored light tubes or similar devices that are available (or make your own). Do a search on Amazon to see what you can find, and use your imagination to reveal their potential.

Whatever you end up using for your painting with light experiments, there are a number of things you need to consider to get the best results. Take care of these and you should be able to create some strong images.

Choose a Location

painting-with-light-7

Pick a good location. You need a dramatic background that complements the painting with light technique you choose to use. For these photos we went to Massey Memorial, built in remembrance of a past New Zealand Prime Minister on a hill in Wellington. I knew it would be a great place to take the photos because the marble pillars form a dramatic background. There was also plenty of room for Tess to move and dance with the FutureHoop.

Take the practicalities into consideration when choosing a background. For example, beaches often make good locations for painting with light photos, but you need to make sure your model can walk around safely in the near dark without tripping over rocks (or falling into the sea). Incidentally, isolated beaches are also a great place to try steel wool spinning, another form of painting with light.

painting with light

Pick a model

Pick the right model. Tess is a professional performer and I couldn’t have created these photos without her. She had the appropriate costume, including an illuminated bra that can also be programmed to give different color displays.

Her training also meant that she could strike professional poses. The following photo demonstrates this perfectly. Look at the arch of her back, the way her feet are positioned, and how the toes on her left foot are pointed. You can even see the flashing bra.

painting with light

The other thing that helped is that Tess thought about the patterns she would use on FutureHoop, and how she would move the hoop before the shoot. That helped us nail the shoot the first time.

Ask your model to practice, and be prepared to reshoot if necessary. It is possible that you won’t create your best images during the first attempt. During the shoot, look at the photos on the camera’s LCD screen and see what works and what doesn’t. Then you can suggest things that your model can try, or ask her to do something again if you didn’t quite time the photo correctly. Use feedback to refine the images and work towards something beautiful.

painting-with-light-15

Time of Day

Choose the right time of day. The best time for painting with light is twilight, as it is dark enough for the lights to show, but there is still enough ambient light to subtly illuminate the background, and maintain some color in the sky.

The only difficulty with twilight is that the light fades rapidly, so you have to keep up by changing the exposure settings as you go along. The photos you take earlier on in the shoot, will be different from the ones you take later, as the light is fading. The ratio between the light from the FutureHoop (or whatever devices you are using), which stays constant, and the ambient light, which is fading, changes.

painting with light

painting with light

The two photos above show the difference. The first was taken early in the evening, the second one when it was nearly dark. The pillars in the background in the first are lit by the light of the setting sun. The FutureHoop seems much brighter in the second because the ambient light levels are lower. Note that I darkened the background of the first image in Lightroom to match that of the second one.

This photo shows Tess warming up at the start of the shoot. It was still too bright as this stage for the painting with light photos – you can barely see the light of the FutureHoop.

painting with light

If you shoot at night the exposure should remain constant, but the sky will lack color. On the other hand, the light from the device your model is using could light up the background beautifully if it is close enough. So there may be advantages to working at night, rather than twilight, but in most cases the light during twilight will be better.

Technique and Camera Settings

Get your technique right. You need slow shutter speeds to take this type of photo, so a good tripod to support the camera and a cable release are necessities. I used shutter speeds between two and four seconds for these photos – you may need longer exposures depending on how long it takes your model to move the device you are using through the air. Tess moved quite fast, so the shorter shutter speeds we used worked better.

painting-with-light-16

Set your camera to Manual mode so that the exposure remains constant throughout the series (the moving lights will confuse your camera’s light meter in an automatic exposure mode). It is easy enough to open the aperture, or raise the ISO, if you need to as the light fades.

Use the Raw format to give you maximum leeway in post-processing. Shooting Raw simplifies the shoot greatly as you don’t have to worry about settings such as color profile until you sit down to process the photos.

In this shoot, once the camera was set up, I kept the aperture at f/8 or f/11 and raised the ISO as the light faded. I set the White Balance to Daylight so I could see the natural colors of the FutureHoop and the ambient light. Using auto White Balance may result in some strange color casts as the camera tries to compensate for the colored lights.

painting-with-light-14

Above all, have fun. If you both enjoy the process you create better images. If your model enjoys it she will want to collaborate with you on future ideas. Below are a few more images from our shoot – enjoy and hopefully they give you some ideas.

painting-with-light-6

painting-with-light-13

painting-with-light-12

painting-with-light-11

painting-with-light-10

painting-with-light-9

painting-with-light-8

Any questions? Let us know in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer.

And if you’d like to learn more about the basics of photography, then please check out my ebook Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras.

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The post How to Create Beautiful Light Painting Images With an Illuminated Hoop by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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21 Fun Images of People Laughing

09 Jul

Laughter is contagious. One person starts doing it and soon others around them follow.

Overduebook

By Overduebook

Capturing real human emotions with a camera can be challenging. Some people are guarded with their emotions, and getting a real smile, let alone a laugh can be difficult.

If you’re a portrait photographer it’s your job to make your clients feel at ease enough to relax and let their real emotions show. If you do candid or street photography it’s about paying attention and capturing just the right moment. Here are some images of people laughing to get you inspire or maybe to put a smile on your face too.

Notice they aren’t all technically perfect, but can you feel the emotion and hear the laughter? Then the image is successful. Yes, animals count too!

Naomii.tumblr.com

By naomii.tumblr.com

Marc Kjerland

By Marc Kjerland

Rosino

By Rosino

*Robert*

By *Robert*

Al-jubey

By al-jubey

Via Tsuji

By Via Tsuji

Gregory Gill

By Gregory Gill

David K

By David K

Rachael

By Rachael

Philippe Put

By Philippe Put

MichelleNMS

By MichelleNMS

Devon D'Ewart

By Devon D’Ewart

Filippey

By Filippey

Peter Kelly

By Peter Kelly

Alon

By Alon

Davina

By Davina

Tommy Wong

By Tommy Wong

Taminator

By taminator

Su-lin

By su-lin

François Reiniche

By François Reiniche

Sadiq Alam

By Sadiq Alam

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How to Use Light to Create Moody Images

04 Jul

It isn’t difficult to take sharp, well-exposed photos with modern cameras. But how do you take it a step further and create moody images that capture the spirit of a place?

What is mood?

I define mood as a feeling or emotion you get while experiencing something. For example, while travelling through Xi’an, a city in China, last year I spent some time in the city’s Muslim Quarter. I felt a mixture of things – overwhelmed by the crowds and the sticky heat, fascinated by the sights and smells coming from stalls selling home-made street food, and claustrophobic while wandering down hutongs (alleyways) connecting the main streets. Then there was the paradox of the city’s ancient open air mosque – a peaceful paradise amongst the noise and dirt of the old city.

Mood and light

The mood in this photo was created by the mix of artificial and natural light. The lights in the market stall bathe the scene in an orange glow, while the blue light of early evening creeps in at the edges.

Once you have the sense of the mood of a place, you can start thinking about how to capture that in a still frame. Part of the answer lies in composition and the subject. In this example it is obvious that well composed images taken amongst the hubbub of the Muslim Quarter in Xi’an will help capture the atmosphere. But the one thing you really have to pay attention to, the thing that will elevate your photos above the ordinary, is light.

How light and time of day affect your images

Most photographers are familiar with the idea that the moodiest, most evocative lighting comes at either end of the day, close to sunrise and sunset. Golden hour is the name for the time when the sun is close to the horizon, casting golden light that creates long, raking shadows. The blue hour is the time at dusk, or just before sunrise, when there is light in the sky and the natural color of the ambient light is deep blue.

The light at both these times is incredibly moody. Once you have found an interesting place to photograph, and identified with the spirit of the place, then you really can’t go wrong by venturing out at these times to take photos. Yes, you can take interesting photos at other times of the day, but the light won’t be as evocative.

One of the challenges of working in moody light, especially during dusk, is that light levels are low. This is less of a problem than it used to be because high ISO performance on modern cameras is so good you can easily raise the ISO to work with a hand-held camera in low light. It also helps if you have a prime lens, as this lets you use wider apertures which let more light in, enabling you to use lower ISOs or faster shutter speeds (or both). Image Stabilization in its various forms may also be useful.

Mood and light

This photo balances the orange glow from the lanterns against the fading blue light of the evening sky. I used an ISO of 6400 to work in low light shooting without a tripod.

If you are a landscape photographer, these points aren’t so important, as you would simply use a tripod to support the camera, allowing you to use small apertures, low ISO settings, and long shutter speeds (another tool for creating mood in the landscape) without camera shake.

Returning to my example of taking photos in Xi’an, I didn’t bother going out with my camera in the middle of the day (when the light was too harsh). Instead, I visited it in the late afternoon, when the fading light and encroaching artificial lights added to the mood, and helped me create a sense of place. This was as interesting time to work, as the low light and the crowds created various challenges to be overcome.

Mood and light

Look carefully at this image and you’ll see that the ground is glistening after a rain shower. Together with the out of focus orange lights in the background, this helps to add mood to the photo.

Mood and light

The green fluorescent lights in this image create a different type of mood. The fluorescent light is ugly, rather than beautiful.

Using color contrasts for more drama

One of the key aspects of light at the end of the day is that it often utilizes the contrast between orange and blue. It is something you see a lot in the landscape, with the orange light from the setting sun contrasting with the blue of the sea. Or you may have a photo taken during the blue hour, with a corresponding contrast created by an artificial light source. Sadly, the practise of using fluorescent or white LED lighting is making this less common, but it is something to look out for.

Mood and light

This photo, taken during the golden hour, shows the contrast between the orange light casty by the setting sun on the tower and flag, and the blue sky.

I recently came across an example of this color contrast in a blacksmith’s forge in Lincolnshire, UK. The forge is a historical building, and the people who work there use techniques that were used in the forge over a hundred years ago. The interior has changed little in that time – one of the blacksmiths told me that they are visited by people who remember the forge from childhood over 50 years ago, and say it still looks exactly as they remember it.

There were two types of moody lighting in the forge. One was daylight coming through the small windows, the other was orange light coming from the fire in the forge, and sparks cast by the blacksmith as he worked. I chose to emphasize these even more in post-processing, by using a split tone to give the background a cold blue color.

Mood and light

What examples of moody lighting can you think of? Please let me know in the comments.


Mastering Photography

If you’d like to learn more about creating beautiful photos with light then please take a look at my ebook Mastering Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Using Digital Cameras.

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23 Star Struck Images of Celestial Subjects

01 Jul

We can be star struck in more than one way. Celebrity sightings of famous Hollywood stars is one way, the other is by the celestial stars themselves – literally!

Let’s look at a few images of celestial subjects and see how they can be captured in photographs:

Star trails

Shannon Dizmang

By Shannon Dizmang

Prachanart Viriyaraks

By Prachanart Viriyaraks

Howard Ignatius

By Howard Ignatius

Howard Ignatius

By Howard Ignatius

Jeff Krause

By Jeff Krause

Rodger Evans

By Rodger Evans

Andrew

By Andrew

Aaron

By Aaron

Starry skies

Sian Monument

By sian monument

Rodney Campbell

By Rodney Campbell

Indigo Skies Photography

By Indigo Skies Photography

Aaron

By Aaron

Diana Robinson

By Diana Robinson

Indigo Skies Photography

By Indigo Skies Photography

Olli Henze

By Olli Henze

Dennis Behm

By Dennis Behm

Other kinds of stars

Alexey Kljatov

By Alexey Kljatov

Neal Fowler

By Neal Fowler

Nanabcn19

By nanabcn19

Ra1000

By ra1000

Thomas Hawk

By Thomas Hawk

Peter Miller

By Peter Miller

Roadsidepictures

By Roadsidepictures

Bonus – some from NASA

NASA's Marshall Space Flight Center

By NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center

NASA's Marshall Space Flight Center

By NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center

NASA's Marshall Space Flight Center

By NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center

NASA's Marshall Space Flight Center

By NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center

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The Secret to Getting Tack Sharp Images for the Web

29 Jun

Do your images end up looking soft when you resize them and export them for the web? When you resize an image, it loses some sharpness. With a 24 MP image measuring 6000 px you need to resize quite a lot to downsize it for optimal web use which is often around 800 px wide. That is why a set-once-and-forget Continue Reading

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Improve Your Photography by Getting the Right Feedback on Your Images

28 Jun

Have you ever felt that your photography isn’t improving as much as it once was? Do you feel that the level of your work is stagnating and not progressing much more?

Improve Your Photography

Yet you keep reading article after article, either on the web or in magazines. You hope that one of them will provide the next breakthrough for your work and help you rip through the barrier that will bring your photography to the next level. You show off your work to friends and family, and you hear the resounding praises of, “That’s a beautiful photograph” or, “You nailed it”, or any other form of overly positive, loving feedback. The people that you show your work to love it, but you feel that it’s just becoming a little boring, and the next image isn’t really any different from the last.

Justin

By Justin

Do this one thing to improve your photography

If this sounds like you, don’t panic; you’re very likely not alone! Even better, there is a very simple remedy for this. This remedy will not only help you now, but also continue to help you well into the future, and at all stages of your photographic journey. You won’t need to read anything extra for it, nor will you have to buy any equipment. To break through this barrier you need to do one thing: be more selective with the feedback you listen to.

The trouble with feedback from people like friends and family is that, unless they are photographers themselves, they won’t tell you want you need to hear. Rather, they will tell you what you want to hear – which is generally positive reinforcements – however, when you come to think of it, no one really wants to hear that their latest photo is rubbish!

But it’s this honest, yet brutal truth, that will ultimately help you take better photos. Sure, I’ll be the first to admit that it wasn’t the best feeling in the world when I was once told a collection of my photos weren’t that great. To make things worse, this came from a photographer whom I greatly admired and respected. It shook me up a little. It made me feel a little inadequate. It made me question if this was indeed the career for me, and if I actually had what it took to succeed.

Arileu

By arileu

But I needed to hear it. I needed to know what my work was actually like. Being continually told that my work was great and amazing wasn’t really helping with anything other than inflating my ego. I needed to hear exactly how a seasoned photographer viewed my work, and I needed to hear it honestly and clearly. This feedback set me on the direction that I needed to take to improve my game, and because it wasn’t sugar coated, I had no ambiguity about any of the feedback I had received.

Finding good feedback

This kind of feedback is not something that you will get from friends and family. You have to go out there and find a third party. A person that not only has no emotional connection with you, but also who knows one or two things about photography. By removing the emotional connection, you open the door for truth and honesty.

Quinn Dombrowski

By Quinn Dombrowski

How it’s delivered, however, is a variable you cannot control. This means you also need to bring something to the table; a thick skin. Some photographers, just like doctors, are fantastic at delivering bad news in a nice subtle, even positive, way. Others will tell you how it is, warts and all, without the sugar coatings. But where do you find this third party?

There are many avenues you can take to find the right third party for getting feedback on your work. Social media, such as Instagram and Facebook, can be great. Facebook in particular has many useful groups where you can seek feedback and critique on your work. But if keeping it in person and face-to-face is more your thing, looking around at camera clubs is another option. The feedback you get at camera clubs may not always be accurate, but it is a useful tool to network with other photographers.

S3aphotography

By s3aphotography

Just keep in mind exactly who your third party will be. You ideally would like your mentor to be involved in the genres you’re most interested in – there’s no point showing a wedding photographer, for example, a body of sport or landscape images. Also keep an open mind to having multiple people. This will help you smooth out any personal preferences each photographer may have, and find a more common denominator to look out for.

Being more selective with who you seek for feedback will help improve your photography immeasurably. It won’t always be easy to hear your work being torn apart, but if you keep at it and keep your chin up, you will come out the other side a stronger photographer and perhaps even a stronger person.

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