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Check out These 3 Great Photography Deals from SnapnDeals [Limited Time]

17 Oct

This week over at our sister site – SnapnDeals – we have some great photography related deals all live for a limited time right now.

Here’s what you can get your hands on:

50% off ‘How to Photograph Kids – Naturally’ Course

NewImageThis online course by Brent Mail (recent contributor to dPS with this popular post) is all about helping you to take great photos of children.

It will help you on many levels in photographing kids – all the way from how to connect with kids, the right equipment and settings to use, best props, how to edit these images as well as how to share online and display at home, or present the finished products to clients as part of a profitable photography business.

Save 50% on Brent’s course here for the next week only.

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13% off Dan Bailey’s Zen Photographer eBook

This brand new eBook by explorer, adventurer and photographer Dan Bailey is all about turning your passion for photography into focus.

It is an 81-page collection of essays and photographs that are designed to ignite your imagination, inspire creativity and generally fill your brain with rock solid tips, insight and advice – advice that can save you time and prevent you from making many common mistakes as you travel along on your own photography path.

Grab Dan’s eBook via SnapnDeals here.

55% Off a range of C1Styles CaptureOne Presets

PresetsFor the next 6 days you can pick up their Spring Drops, Italy 1970, Hot Summer and B&W Portraits preset packs to be used in CaptureOne at under half price.

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Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Check out These 3 Great Photography Deals from SnapnDeals [Limited Time]

The post Check out These 3 Great Photography Deals from SnapnDeals [Limited Time] by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The Secrets of Great Portrait Photography – Great Video from Brian Smith

07 Oct

Late last year I was giving a copy of celebrity portrait photographer Brian Smith’s book – Secrets of Great Portrait Photography: Photographs of the Famous and Infamous. It was a great read and one that gave me load of ideas for my own portraiture.

Today I was surfing on YouTube and came across a great lecture that Brian Smith gave at B&H Photo that really is a great walk through of the book and many of the tips in it. While long – the video is really useful on many levels.

The video goes for almost an hour and a half so grab yourself a beverage and snack and make yourself comfortable – it really is a great watch!

Get Brian Smith’s Book – The Secrets of Great Portrait Photography

Grab Brian’s book here and check out more of Brian Smith’s work on his website.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

The Secrets of Great Portrait Photography – Great Video from Brian Smith

The post The Secrets of Great Portrait Photography – Great Video from Brian Smith by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Maternity Photography – 7 Tips for Taking Great Shots

29 Sep

In this tutorial Natalie Norton shares 7 great tips for great Maternity Photography.

7 Tips for Creative Maternity Photography

When I first began doing maternity work I made a pledge. A commitment I swore I’d stand by through thick and thin. I promised myself I’d never take “the maternity picture.” You know the one. Daddy’s arms around mommy’s belly with hands affectionately forming… gag… excuse me… a heart. There’s NOTHING wrong with this photo. AT ALL. Calm your rage oh you who just did this exact shot this afternoon.

It’s just that I didn’t want to do the typical maternity image that every mother who’s every had her belly photographed has in one of her 9 baby albums (9 for the first child that is… 1 for the second…a few images in an envelope somewhere for the third… and oh, that poor fourth child, he has to borrow pictures from his brother when he’s highlighted on the bulletin board in Kindergarten). I marched right into that first session ready to stand by my commitment to creativity! I’d no sooner pulled out my camera than mom, all giddy with excitement, said “Woo! Can we do that shot with Daddy’s arms around me and our hands forming a heart over my belly button?!?” I stood by that pledge of mine for a full… well, 2.4 seconds. Of course I did the shot. But guess what? I did a lot of other stuff that she’d never have dreamed of. Guess which image DID NOT get purchased. Belly button heart.

7 Maternity Photography Tips

Here’s 7 tips toward creative maternity photography:

1. The Great Outdoors:

So many maternity sessions are done in studio. I understand the reasons behind this. I’ve been pregnant. 3 times over. I’m not the petite and pretty pregnant. I’m the gal you find wedged between the double doors at The Sizzler. Studio shoots are great because there’s privacy. I can’t argue with that. Particularly if you’re going to do anything in less than a fully clothed state (that’s my PC way of saying naked). But there’s something about being outside. Taking that natural beauty of a woman who’s ready to bring new life into the world and placing her in the majesty of the great outdoors is simply breathtaking.

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Maternity Photography

2. At Home:

When you shoot a mommy-to-be in her own home she’s comfortable to let go in a way that she may not be otherwise. This is a fantastic reason to hold maternity sessions at home. This is not however why I do it. As a photographer I feel like it’s my responsibility to help my subjects feel comfortable and capable of giving me their best, no matter where we’re shooting. I pride myself on my ability to do this. To me, it’s a HUGE part of my success as a photographer (Uh oh. I feel a post in this regard coming on… check back soon). I shoot maternity sessions at home primarily because it’s wonderful for a couple to have a capture that truly shows what their life was like at the time their baby came to be a part of their family. I’m a second generation photographer so I’ve got some really lovely shots of my sweet momma awaiting my arrival. My favorite however is a simple picture of her standing by my bassinet with her hand on her tummy. I CHERISH it.

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3. Simplify:

No matter where you shoot, studio, home, outside, 7Eleven, you’ve got to simplify your surroundings. The beauty of a mother anticipating the arrival of her child should be captured in a way that allows the miracle to speak for itself. Pregnancy doesn’t require anything “else” to be present in a photograph to help tell it’s story. Everything in the frame that may not belong will simply serve to distract from the story that’s already being told, naturally. Pay attention to background.

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4. Help Her Feel Beautiful

Women don’t generally feel very sexy when they’re pregnant. Understandably so, and trust me I connect with this feeling as much as the next gal. But just because an expectant mother doesn’t feel sexy, that doesn’t mean she’s not totally knock out. Bring that out in her. Pull that beauty out of her. A good way to do this is by talking as you shoot. It’s perfectly appropriate to say things like: “That’s beautiful!” “Yes, perfect!” “Oh that’s just LOVELY.” “Pregnancy looks good on you girl!” Whatever works! If you’re a male photographer you’ll need to be careful about what you say in this crazy world of sexual harassment, but you’re even more capable of pulling the beauty out of her than a female photographer. It’s one thing when your girlfriend tells you you’re beautiful, but when your girlfriend’s brother tells you that you’re looking good, you actually believe it. Obviously be careful and be genuine. The success of this tip will depend on your personality, but you can help her help herself. If she feels pretty she’ll look a whole heck of a lot better. It’s that simple.

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5. Highlight Relationship:

Hopefully new babies are coming into a loving home. I always try to include photographs that highlight the tender relationship between mom and dad, because bringing a child into the world with someone is arguably love in it’s purest form.

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6. Don’t Forget the Siblings… or the dog for that matter:

Remember that often a baby is coming into an established family unit (not to say that Mom and Dad alone aren’t an “established family unit” but for the sake of my point, go with me on this one). If the siblings are available, make sure to include them in at least a few frames. I have to mention the dog, because I’ve got a sister-in-law who’s dog, Wanda (seriously that’s her name) is her pride and joy. When she and her hubby have kids, you can trust that Wanda will be right there in at least a handful of her maternity photos. She’s as much a part of the family as the next guy.

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7. Give ‘em Something Different:

Don’t just shoot what’s always been shot. This is a good general rule of photography. I really try to be “consistently inconsistent” (I recently heard another photographer, Nate Kaiser of theimageisfound.com, use this term and I had to pirate it). Let me explain, you’ve got to approach each shoot as it’s own. I’m very committed as a photographer to tailoring each shoot for the subject I’m photographing. Like I said before, this is a good general rule that applies particularly to maternity photography. Even though millions and millions of mothers have given birth to millions and millions of babies for millions and millions of years, a momma-to-be needs to feel like her pregnancy is miraculous, special and sacred, that the things she’s experiencing are unique only to her. Because they are.

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Happy Shooting!!

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Maternity Photography – 7 Tips for Taking Great Shots


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Getting Great Portraits At Sunset

14 Sep
As the sun dipped down I was able to completely remove the flash and use the sun as my main light source, with no fill. I simply moved around my subject, asking her to turn her head a little so I could see the changes in the light on her face, and position her so that the light was the most pleasing.  EOS 5D Mark III, EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/250.

As the sun dipped down I was able to completely remove the flash and use the sun as my main light source, with no fill. I simply moved around my subject, asking her to turn her head a little so I could see the changes in the light on her face, and position her so that the light was the most pleasing. EOS 5D Mark III, EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/250.

I try to take advantage of natural light for shooting portraits whenever I can.  It’s important to recognize the ways different types of natural light affect your images.  A few months ago I wrote about shooting portraits in midday sun.  This past week I was approached by a close friend who wanted a portrait taken.  After discussing ideas, we decided the beach at sunset would be our setting. Sunset can be as problematic as midday sun for a variety of reasons.   As sun dips lower in the sky, the light gets softer as atmospheric haze diffuses it. In addition, the color temperature warms up, giving a nice warm glow to your scene. However, even an hour before sunset, the light can still be harsher than preferred, casting odd shadows, or creating a harsh backlight. Using flash as fill can help, but as the sunlight takes on a warmer tone, the flash will appear to be too blue. So how do we solve these issues?

This was one of the first shots taken, on the boardwalk at the beach.  The sun was harsher than I wanted so opted to use wireless flash.  I positioned my friend with the sun at her back and over her right shoulder, and the flash to her front left.  I also had the flash set to high speed sync. I then set the flash to E-TTL, with flash exposure compensation set to even.  I set the camera's exposure compensation to -1, in Aperture Priority.  Doing this lessens the sun's impact on the image, helps darken the sky, and the background overall. Exposure was ISO 100, f/4, 1/4000.

This was one of the first shots taken, on the boardwalk at the beach. The sun was harsher than I wanted so opted to use wireless flash. I positioned my friend with the sun at her back and over her right shoulder, and the flash to her front left. I also had the flash set to high speed sync. I then set the flash to E-TTL, with flash exposure compensation set to even. I set the camera’s exposure compensation to -1, in Aperture Priority. Doing this lessens the sun’s impact on the image, helps darken the sky, and the background overall. Exposure was ISO 100, f/4, 1/4000.

Let’s deal with the harsh light, an hour or so before sunset first.  First, as I mentioned in my earlier post, you can use a scrim or reflector and modify the sunlight that way.  However, this time it was just me and my friend, so I had no one to hold the scrim or reflector and the wind on the beach was too gusty to risk putting the reflector on a stand. I had to use flash.  I was able to use off-camera flash, wirelessly.  I was shooting a Canon EOS 5D Mark III with an ST-E3 wireless flash transmitter mounted to the camera’s hot shoe. I used a 600EX-RT speedlite off camera, mounted on a lightstand.  Again, due to the wind, a softbox or umbrella was out of the question, so I left the flash bare.  There are several ways to compensate for the cooler color temperature of the flash.  You can use what’s known as a warming gel, or CTO (color to orange) gel, on the flash to match the temperature of the sunset.  This is fairly simple solution.  The other solution is simply to set your white balance for the flash, which will have two effects.  One, it will warm the illumination from the flash.  Second, it will warm the sunset light even more, which can be quite pleasing if not overdone.

As the sun dipped down I wanted to turn the flash off and go for a more natural look. The light was still a bit harsher than I wanted so I started shooting backlit. I tried some fill flash, but the light was casting unflattering shadows and not meshing well with the available lighting. Turning the flash off, I positioned my subject so she was facing away from the sun, but had some sand in front of her that reflected enough light back into her face to create some soft catchlights in the eyes.

Finally, the sun dipped down and softened enough that I could ask my subject to look directly into it. This creates a soft, warm look on the face with nice shadows.  Pay attention to how the light falls on your subject when doing this. Ask your subject to slowly turn her head so you can see how the light on her face changes as she does so.  This will give you an idea of how you want her to pose, using the sun as a point of reference for her positioning. The shot in question is the first image in the article.  I also used this technique in the last image, for a wider shot.

Another way to deal with the harsh sun is to shoot backlit. I had tried some fill flash on this shot but it just didn't look the way I wanted it to. The flash caused the noise to cast an unnatural shadow that I found unflattering. I turned the flash off and positioned her so the sand created some fill in her face.  EOS 5D Mark III with EF 24-70 f/2.8L II. ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/400.

Another way to deal with the harsh sun is to shoot backlit. I had tried some fill flash on this shot but it just didn’t look the way I wanted it to. The flash caused the noise to cast an unnatural shadow that I found unflattering. I turned the flash off and positioned her so the sand created some fill in her face. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 24-70 f/2.8L II. ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/400.

This was one of the last shots of the day.  The beach was nearly empty and I wanted to use the texture of the sand, the deep blue of the sky, and the red glow of the sun to create a graphically strong image. I positioned her so that if she turned her head her face would be lit by the sun and the sun would create a rim of light on her side. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 85mm f/1.2L II. 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 100.

This was one of the last shots of the day. The beach was nearly empty and I wanted to use the texture of the sand, the deep blue of the sky, and the red glow of the sun to create a graphically strong image. I positioned her so that if she turned her head her face would be lit by the sun and the sun would create a rim of light on her side. EOS 5D Mark III with EF 85mm f/1.2L II. 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 100.

 

Quick lighting diagram for the shot using off camera flash.

Quick lighting diagram for the shot using off camera flash.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Getting Great Portraits At Sunset


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Shoot Great Concert Photos & Win a Trip to Way Over Yonder Music Festival

10 Sep

Whether you’re a festival fanatic or haven’t seen a concert in years, we’ve got something you might like.

We’ve teamed up with Scoutmob, Paste Magazine and Hotel Tonight to send one lucky winner (& pal) to Way Over Yonder festival in Santa Monica, California.

Flights, hotel, festival tix (VIP, natch) and gift cards to the Scoutmob and Photojojo stores are included. And it takes all of 5 seconds to enter!

Enter to go to Way Over Yonder, free!

And… while you’re waiting to see if you won, improve your concert photography skills with a few of our favorite guides:

  1. Music Photography Made Simple
  2. Music Photographer’s Guide to Festival Photography
  3. Concert Photography Tips From Digital Photography School

p.s. A new iPhone is coming! To celebrate, every checkout in the shop gets free enrollment into our Phoneography 101 course today.

Related posts:

  1. Rockin’ Photography: How to Shoot Great Concert Photos It’s all about the D&B. (Dark and blurry.) If you’re…
  2. Get Out and Shoot! — 3 Great Ideas for Shooting Outside in Your Town or City There’s one sure-fire way to improve all of your shots:…
  3. Shoot to Sell: Taking Better Photos for eBay, Etsy & Instructables   We’ve teamed up with our buddies at Instructables to…


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10 Tips for Creating Great Family Portraits

19 Aug

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With my background being in classic style studio portraiture (aka “boring”), and 25 years experience photographing portraits and weddings, I have a few tips up my sleeve for you. If you’ve never done a family or group portrait before don’t be intimidated. Be honest with the family and tell they you’re just learning, I bet they’ll be willing participants to help you out and they get some nice photos in exchange.

With a little planning, doing a family portrait should be fun for both you, and the family you’re photographing. Here are 10 quick tips to help you have a successful and fun photo session.

SUMMARY – 10 TIPS FOR BETTER FAMILY PORTRAITS

  1. Use a tripod when possible
  2. Shoot in Manual exposure mode
  3. Lock the focus or use manual focus
  4. Arrange people with heads staggered
  5. Allow kids to be kids and get goofy with them
  6. If it bends, bend it – how to help people pose
  7. Pose people to flatter them
  8. Lighting is key – get some in their eyes
  9. Expression is everything!
  10. Have a little fun with it and let go

Let’s take a look at each in more detail.

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#1 USE A TRIPOD WHENEVER POSSIBLE

“Ugh”, I already know what you’re thinking. A tripod cramps your style. It’s too heavy and cumbersome. Your style is more free flowing. That all may be true and in some cases (like photographing kids running or doing more documentary style photography) it may be better to shoot hand held.  However, just consider another side of the coin.

When being photographed  most, if not all, people are nervous. Yes nervous! Some are down right scared, and some would even go as far to say that they “hate it”. So it is part of your job to help your subjects feel more comfortable and relaxed. That can be hard to do when you’re also nervous, especially if you’re new to portraits. But there’s a big advantage of putting that camera on the tripod.  Two actually.

#1 – it automatically forces you to slow down. That’s a good thing. You can check your settings, review the composition, and exposure to make sure you’ve got everything right. All to often it’s easy to get carried away once you put the camera up to your eye and forget to check something only to see later you had the wrong White Balance, or ISO was 6400, or you accidentally shot Small JPG. Slow down, avoid an “oops”.

#2 – it allows you to get your eye away from the camera so you can actually make eye contact with your subjects. They are very real people and they feel even more uncomfortable staring straight into your lens than they do looking at you. You can make gestures to get kids attention, or make faces. But you’ll get way better expressions by interacting with them than you will looking through the viewfinder. Try it!

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#2 SHOOT IN MANUAL EXPOSURE MODE

Assuming that you are setting something up, choosing the time of day and the location carefully, you have control of all the elements. Meaning, once you get set up the exposure should not need to change. But if you put it in Aperture or Shutter priority, depending in the metering mode selected, the camera could choose a slightly different exposure for each frame. You do NOT want that! Consistency is very important.This post is sponsored by our partners Wigs

Inconsistent exposures create more work in post processing, as you have to even them all out. It also can cause a slight color shift, increase noise (if underexposed) and other undesirable things. To keep your exposures consistent through the whole shoot, use Manual Mode. Just remember that each time you change the pose, location, etc, you need to check exposure again. I just fire off a quick test shot, review the histogram, adjust if necessary and continue.

#3 LOCK THE FOCUS

Just as you do not want the exposure to change from frame to frame, neither do you want the focus to be adjusted. Assuming you’ve taken #1 to heart and are using a tripod, you will not be moving. Likely if you’ve posed your group in a relatively static position, they will not be moving. Not much anyway. We are only concerned with moving closer to, or further away from the camera. So . . .

Set your camera up to do one of the following: use focus lock, back button focus, or use manual focus. With any of those options the focus will not change from shot to shot. If you use the shutter button to focus and someone moves a little bit so that the focus dot hits the background, you got another “oops”. If you aren’t sure how to do this, consult your camera manual.

Bonus tip: If your camera has video capabilities you have a neat way of doing manual focus. Turn on the Live View so you can see the image on your screen. Hit your “zoom” button (it may have a magnifying glass or a “+” sign on it) once or twice. The image on the screen will zoom in (your lens doesn’t) so you can see what is in focus which allows for much most precise manual focusing. Press zoom again to return to normal view and turn off Live View.

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#4 STAGGER THE HEADS

You may or may not have heard this one before, or perhaps you weren’t 100% what it meant. What you want to avoid is a boring straight line, row, or column of heads. Diagonal lines are more dynamic and add interest to an image, so try to do that with the people in your grouping.

Imagine there is a line drawn from each face to the next. Try and position them so that no head is directly on top of, or beside (same level) another. Make diagonal lines not totem poles. Use props to seat some people or bring some small folding stools. Have some people sit down, or stand up on something. Use what is naturally in the environment to pose them, or if you have nothing available just arrange them so the heights are staggered.

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#5 IF IT BENDS, BEND IT

This is a general rule when photographing any people and it’s a good one. People tend to stand stiff and rigged when you position them, so you need to get them to bend a few body parts to look more natural. Nobody naturally stands stiff as a board. Here are a few starters

  • get them to shift their weight to one foot and stick out one hip, away from the camera
  • get them to put a hand in a pocket, I usually recommend thumb out otherwise they have a tendancy to shove their hand to the bottom of the pocket also not looking natural
  • OR hook a finger on their belt or a belt loop
  • if they are sitting lean forward a bit and put weight on one hip
  • if standing against something have them cross one foot over the other, toe down
  • if sitting (males) put one knee up, foot flat on the ground (make sure they rotate so you aren’t looking straight into their crotch

You get the idea. The best way to get someone to do any of this is to do it yourself and have them mirror you. Face them, do the pose you want them to do, and have them mimic it exactly.

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Example of bending body parts. The girls did a much better job here than the guys but even the arms bent at the elbow helps. Some people are stiff and you may have  a challenge with them. Just do your best.

#6 LET KIDS BE KIDS

I’ve found that often parents will tell their kids “you need to be good and smile” before a photo session. For many kids that puts too much pressure on them to “perform”. I usually prepare my parents by getting them to tell their kids this instead:

We’re doing to the park to take some photos. It will be a lot of fun.

That’s it! No expectations other than fun. Then prepare yourself. Bring along props, get mom to bring one of their favourite toys or books. I usually have a hand puppet and bubbles in my camera bag along with my gear. If the kids don’t want to sit and smile don’t force them. Then them run around and be kids for a while and shoot that. Play with them, make it fun. Then they may cooperate and sit for a bit a few minutes later.

When I’m photographing kids I make a total idiot of myself. I make funny noises, I sing songs (I’m really bad but they don’t care), I make fish faces, I play peek-a-boo behind the camera.  I run back and forth to the camera with the puppet. I lie on the ground, I stick my butt out. Kids are the ones that have life the right way around, it’s us adults that ruin it. Let them be kids, let them have fun. Then be ready to capture it when it happens.

This was a game of peek-a-boo around the tree.

This was a game of peek-a-boo around the tree. Look at those genuine smiles! You can’t force those.

#7 POSE PEOPLE TO FLATTER THEM

Here’s the bottom line – if mom thinks she looks fat she isn’t going to like them no matter how great the lighting and expressions (see #8 and #9 below). So get this one right.

Be aware of people’s perceived “flaws” and work with them. A list of some quick tips.

  • If someone has a bigger bottom half, don’t pose them walking away from the camera using a wide angle lens.
  • For double chins take a slightly higher camera angle, above their eye level. Making them look up stretches it out and minimizes the chin/neck area
  • A bump on a nose will show up when they face one way and not the other (usually) study their face to find out which way to shoot them
  • When you have a couple that has a huge height difference get the man (usually the taller one) to stand with his feet further apart. That will make him slightly shorter, closing the gap a bit.
  • For really heavy people (or those overly self-conscious of their weight) use the lying down in the grass pose and pile the kids on top. Works great every time. Hides tummies, stretches out chins and makes the kids closer in size because it’s just faces.
The lying in the grass, pile on top pose. Great for families with small children.

The lying in the grass, pile on top pose. Great for families with small children. This family didn’t need the pose to correct anything, it’s also just fun having the kids jump on top and squish mom and dad.

#8 LIGHTING IS KING – GET SOME IN THEIR EYES

Light can make or break any photograph, portraits are no different. The very derivative of the word photography is “drawing with light”. The biggest thing you want to make sure you do for portraits is get light into your subjects’ eyes. There are many ways to do that and that’s a whole huge topic but there are a few things you can do to set yourself up to start off with good light.

  • Choose the time of day to do the portrait! Ideally late evening about an hour before dusk is the best time for portraits. Why because the sun is lower on the horizon and you don’t get the harsh overhead light you do at midday. It’s more directional and usually a bit diffused if there’s haze on the horizon.
  • If you can’t shoot at dusk, find some shade. Get your family out of the sun, BUT make sure you don’t get the background lit up. Bright areas in the background will draw attention away from the subjects. Look for areas in the shade of large buildings, or under large trees.
  • Avoid using an overcast day simply because the lighting is even and less harsh than bright sunlight. While it is true the light is softer and less harsh, the direction isn’t great. Overcast days give you direct overhead lighting and dark eyes, especially anyone with deep eye sockets.
  • Add some light using a reflector or a flash if need be. Again this is a whole other class on lighting but learn to know when you need more light on their faces. If you cannot see a catchlight (the lightsource reflected in their eyes) then there isn’t enough light in their faces.

Just as important as getting some light in the eyes is having it come from a good direction. We’ve established overhead isn’t good direction, neither is straight from camera. So turning on your built-in pop flash isn’t going to give you good light. Neither is sticking a speedlight on top. Light direct from the camera angle flattens the subject, that is not what you want. You want the light to come from the side more, 30-45 degrees from camera is a good starting point. To learn more about this read my article on the 6 Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know.

This was done just before sunset. The sun is coming just over their shoulders on the left. I used a flash in an umbrella also to the left to add light to their faces, without it they'd be in shadow.

This was done just before sunset. The sun is coming just over their shoulders on the left, behind them. I used a flash, bounced into an umbrella also to the left to add light to their faces, without it they’d be in shadow.

#9 EXPRESSION IS EVERYTHING

So if lighting is king, getting the right expressions is everything! You can totally screw up the lighting, and the pose, but if you get them laughing or making “that” face – it’ll be a big hit!  So how do you do that?

See #1 first of all. Then look at #6. Being a photographer means that sometimes you have to also become a comedian, or a clown. Knowing the right thing to say or do to make people smile is mostly experience. Sometimes you’ll get tough adults too. The dad in the photo above by the brick wall pretty much has the same expression all the time. I’ve known this family and photographed them for 13 years, they’re friends too. So I know I can bug him a little bit or get out the ducky to have some fun at his expense.

If there are small children or babies involved make sure to get their attention. It even helps to have an assistant, tell them to bring Grandma along or a friend to help out. But what always happens is you get the kids all looking and smiling, and what are the parents doing? Looking at the kids!  Oops again! I always tell the parents, “no matter what keep looking at me as I make a total fool of myself, do NOT look at your child”.

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Baby laughing, everyone else followed instructions and looked at me, success!

#10 HAVE A LITLE FUN WITH IT

Last tip is to no take yourself so seriously. Create a few really whacky shots at the end of the session (or even in the middle if the energy seems to be fading). Tell them to do a group squish and really get them to squish. Often they will start laughing and as they pull apart you grab the shot. Do a pile on down in the grass. Ask them to jump in the air or make goofy faces (you make one too). It breaks the tension and lightens up the mood.

I volunteered my time at an event called Help Portrait last year that has photographers, make up artists and organizers giving their time to create portraits for people that otherwise couldn’t afford a professional one. They ended up sending most of the families to me, initially because I had the biggest area to do the group photo and later because the other photographers said I was the best with the kids.  To see some of my photos from that event go to Help Portrait, Edmonton  2012. 

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I was making a similar face!

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My off camera flash stopped working so this is direct from camera, not my first choice. But we were all tired and I thought this would be fun so we just went for it. Notice dad has a new expression!

BONUS TIP

Get the family to think about what they are going to wear. Some people disagree with my point of view on that, which is totally fine. But if you want to read more about it go to Clothing for Portraits.

Get out there and photograph some families and have fun!

 

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

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10 Tips for Creating Great Family Portraits


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When Bad Weather Means Great Photography

19 Aug

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Landscape photographer Carsten Krieger is no stranger to poor weather, but in this article he explains how you can get great shots even when the sun is hidden from view. His three-page article features several images taken in his native Ireland which should provide plenty of inspiration for those damp, rainy days that are just around the corner. Click through for a link to the full article. 

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CGI vs. Photography – The Great Image Debate

31 Jul

As photographers we are now being faced with a new type of image revolution. It’s one that is so serious it could change the way that images are created, bought and sold. So what is better a real or CGI image? This new revolution threatens the very professional photographic industry that each of us aspire to be a part of. Continue Reading

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Great summer photo projects

19 Jul

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A good summer photo project doesn’t necessarily require a lot of expensive equipment, just a camera, an idea and and the persistence to see it through. Chances are you’ve already got everything you need to kick off a photo series of your own. At DPReview we’re always looking for new and interesting photos on the web and lately we’ve noticed a lot of inspired projects. Some are more fairly laborious, while others take a simple idea and run with it. Check out these projects and why not get started on your own?

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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4 Essential Ingredients for Great Landscape Photographs

27 Jun

When you are out in the field and you’re not sure if your the image you are making is any good, go through this quick mental checklist to see if your image contains these four essential ingredients.

1. Good Light

Light is by far the most important element of a landscape photograph. A photograph of a stunning location taken in harsh mid-day light will fall flat. A photograph of a boring location taken at that perfect moment when the light is magical will turn into a unique and memorable photograph.

I don’t actually believe that there is any kind of light that is inherently bad. You just have to know what to do with the light conditions that you are given.

Driftwood Beach on Jekyll Island, Georgia, USA, by Anne McKinnell.

Driftwood Beach on Jekyll Island, Georgia, USA.

The golden hour light of sunrise and sunset are usually a favourite time for photographers. My favourite time is the blue hour: twilight. It’s hard to go wrong with these two types of light.

When you have a day with bright harsh sunlight, take advantage of the opportunity to look for interesting shadows.

The white sky of an overcast day is an excellent time to photograph close-ups.

And what about those stormy days? Those can be the best of all with the dramatic clouds that accompany a storm.

2. Main Subject

The next thing is to make sure you have a main subject. That may sound pretty obvious but keep it in mind. You may find yourself, as I sometimes do, making an image of some general landscape without a clear subject. It’s just some land with some trees and maybe some water. You need to decide what the subject is and that will help you make an image that is more compelling.

Little Finland, Nevada, USA, by Anne McKinnell.

Little Finland, Nevada, USA.

When I get to a location I like to think of what it is about that place that grabbed my attention and I make that the main subject. That’s not to say you cannot then turn your attention to another main subject later, but if you have too many subjects in your scene, none of them with be the main subject and your image will be too general to be interesting.

While we’re thinking about the main subject, what is it about that subject that you like? Having descriptive words in your head when you are making an image will help you focus and bring that description into the image. What is it about the lake you like? Is it the reflection? The shape? The peacefulness? How it is so clear you can see the bottom? Not only will this help you convey meaning in your image, but it will help you write about it later.

3. Clean Background

Just as important as the main subject is what is behind it.

Clutter and distracting elements can ruin an otherwise good image. This is where perspective becomes important. You must find an angle to photograph your subject so there are no distracting elements in the background. That can mean getting up high and shooting down on your subject so the background is filled with only one texture, or getting low and shooting upwards so the background is filled with only sky.

Try to isolate your subject and simplify the image as much as possible.

Steptoe Butte in the Palouse Hills of Washington, USA, by Anne McKinnell.

Steptoe Butte in the Palouse Hills of Washington, USA.

4. Interesting Composition

I like to think of photography as the opposite of painting. Painters start with a blank canvas and start adding things to it, whereas photographers are presented with a scene full of details and must start eliminating things from it until it contains only the most important elements of the scene. Then, those elements must be arranged to create an interesting graphic design.

Remember the building blocks of composition that you can rely on to create interesting graphic designs:

  • lines
  • curves
  • textures
  • patterns
  • shapes
  • colours
  • frames

The “trick,” if there is one, is to make all four of these things come together. It will take patience, perseverance, and a little luck.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

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