RSS
 

Posts Tagged ‘Creating’

Tips for Creating Dance Portraits

07 Nov

Dance and music have always been a part of my life, but work and my wife have kept me a bit busy lately. So when I had some photography assignments for a few dance concerts, I knew it was going to be a lot fun. It also made me realize that it can also be a bit challenging. In that split second, there is movement, emotion and a story to be captured. You need to anticipate that split second and capture the motion.

Emotion 1

When it comes to your viewers, you want them to believe and see that motion for themselves. So here a few tips to get prepared for a dance portrait. Why would you shoot dance portraits and how would you plan for it?

  • Dance concert – You are asked to take dance portraits as part of a dance concert.
  • Promotion – You are asked to take portraits of the dancer to promote them or the upcoming event that they are currently working on.
  • Head shots– You are helping the dancer to build their portfolio so that they can be represented by an agency or could be sent for casting calls.
  • To fulfil your creativity – You just want to experiment, unleash your creativity, and add Dance portraits to your portfolio.

Whatever might be the reason for your dance portraits here are a few things that are common while planning and executing a dance portrait session:

1. Knowledge and research

It’s always good to know what dance form your model or dancer is learning or practicing. This would help you to do your ground work which includes researching the dance form, checking online for inspiration and creating your mood board.

Research the clothing that is required for that dance form. You can either find a stylist to source the clothes for you or even better just ask the dancer if they would have something appropriate and comfortable that they can wear for the shoot. If you are doing this as part of a dance concert you would not have much say in it, as that will be predefined.

Knowledge and Research  1

Knowing the dance form can also help you choose music tracks for the shoot. Again your model can be a great help in this. Ask your model if they can bring along suitable music which you can play in the studio during the shoot. This helps to establish the environment.

2. Motion

The most important part in a dance portrait is motion or the sense of it. As a photographer you have to make sure that the viewer can visualize the motion. This can be done in a few ways:

  • It can be as simple as capturing someone mid-jump to convey motion.
  • Hair movement.
  • Dress or costume movement.

Some techniques which can be useful for this are, to use a fast shutter speed. Fast shutter speed ensures that the movement is frozen. This can also be achieved by using a flash. At times having a motion blur can also help create a sense of movement.

Motion 1

Motion 2

3. Emotion

Dance is all about motion and emotion. It’s an art form that involves facial emotions combined with body language to convey the idea or concept.

Make sure that you chat with your dancer beforehand to confirm the look they are after. This helps in two ways; one, it tells you what to expect and second you can adjust your lighting to capture the desired mood or add some more drama.

Emotion 2

Emotion 3

4. Anticipation

If you understand dance this one is very easy to master. But if you don’t you might need to work with your instinct. As a dance concert photographer you are expected to anticipate the movement and capture it at the right time to emphasize the effect. If you are photographing a dance concert the best way to address this, is to attend the dress rehearsal. This gives you an idea as to what to expect on the day. What will the lights be like and most importantly what are the critical moments that you need to capture and the best location from which to capture them?

Anticipation  1

If you are doing dance portraits in a studio this factor won’t be of much importance as you have more one on one time to repeat a step or pose if you missed it in the previous shot.

5. Energy

Capturing the energy of the dancer can make the photo look lively. One thing that works for me is I tell them the camera can capture their voice along with the picture. So don’t let them just stand there and smile. Tell them to shout or do something that they can’t do with their mouth closed. This could be done at the end of the shoot when you have got all your shots and just want to take some fun shots.

Energy 1

6. Creative twist

As with any photography, adding that creative twist is always fun. You can experiment with many of different techniques.
You can try panning where you follow the dancers’ movement, making sure that the dancer is in focus and blurring the background.
Drag the shutter (keep the shutter open for longer duration) and capture creative blur. Or try your hand at stop motion where the shutter is left open for a longer duration and a flash is fired at the very end to freeze the final movement.

Creative Twist 1

A few tips for dance portraits:

  • A fast shutter speed helps freeze the motion, but if you want a creative blur a slow shutter speed will do the trick.
  • A faster lens, like f/2.8 or lower, is better suited to take photos of a dance concert where flash photography is usually not allowed.
  • Do not be scared to use a high ISO for a dance concert, this will add grain (noise) to your photo, but you will be able to use higher shutter speed to freeze the motion. Sometimes grain isn’t all that bad.
  • Most important have fun and enjoy what you shoot.

Have you done any dance photography? Share your experience and any other tips you might have in the comments below.

The post Tips for Creating Dance Portraits by Siddhesh Jukar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Tips for Creating Dance Portraits

Posted in Photography

 

5 Tips for Creating Creepy Halloween Photos

30 Oct

It’s the most wonderful time of the year! For some people that is Christmas, but for other’s it means that it’s time for the goblins and ghosts and all of the scary creatures to come out of hiding and find their way into our everyday lives. Theme parks have Halloween themed nights, scary movies are on television, haunted house tours start having people waiting in line and of course, it’s time for photographers to break out of their everyday subjects and come up with something dark and sinister to shoot.

Here are some tips to help you when you are  preparing to shoot some creepy Halloween photos.

CreatingaHalloweenPhotoshoot_DigitalPhotographySchool_LoriPeterson

The fear of clowns is called Coulrophobia.

#1  Pick a theme

When you choose your theme make sure it is one that you know that you can do without scaring yourself. If you have a fear of something, picking that as your theme may not be the best idea. Just because the theme is for Halloween does not mean that you need to bring zombies or blood into the shoot if you do not want to. Your theme could encompass some of the phobias that people have, including clowns, spiders, cemeteries, dolls, or death.

You can make your theme as twisted and as dark as you feel comfortable doing. Remember that there are more themes out there than just clowns, ghosts, and witches. You might even use the photoshoot as a way to get over the things that scare you. Your fears of clowns might be a little more alleviated if you are helping a clown with their costume and makeup and then watching them use their iPhone during breaks.

#2  Scout your location

CreatingaHalloweenPhotoshoot_DigitalPhotographySchool_LoriPeterson_DiadelosMuertos

The fear of the dead is called Necrophobia and the fear of bones is Cartilogenophobia.

Find a spot that is in the woods (if you can) so that you can shoot without being disturbed. You can also do a photo-shoot in a cemetery, but remember that most cemeteries close at dusk and please be respectful of the gravesites. While you may not know the people, that is the final resting place of someone’s loved one. Don’t climb on the headstones as some are very fragile. Wherever you decide to shoot make sure you leave the place as you found it. If the perfect location is on private property, ask for permission to use it. Stay off train tracks (that’s dangerous and illegal in most states). If shooting in a cemetery, be mindful that on the day you decide to shoot that there might be people there for a funeral. Move away from them and be respectful of their grief and what they are going through that day. If you are shooting in a park or in the woods and are approached by people, explain what you are doing. Some people will ask for your business card so they can look for the images online.

# 3 Will you need costumes or props?

You need to figure out (based on your theme) if you will need to find costumes that are already made or create costumes yourself.  The best costumes are usually the ones you make. Take elements of your idea and figure out what parts of it you can create yourself. Then the costume is customized and won’t resemble anyone else’s work. You can also add props to really create your look and pull it together.

Sometimes your models for your shoots will have pieces that will work and you can add jewelry or scary elements. You can find fake blood or for some photo-shoots you can even call your local butcher shop and they may be willing to help you out with some real props. They won’t be as surprised as you might think if you tell them you are a photographer and you need a pig heart for a photoshoot. You might be the one surprised when they ask “Do you want the heart with the valves attached or not?”.

CreatingaHalloweenPhotoshoot_DigitalPhotographySchool_LoriPeterson_EvilQueen

The fear of blood is called Hemaphobia.

#4  Find Your Models

Most photographers have at least a handful of models that they call for photoshoots. Ask your models if they are interested in doing something different from their regular sessions. If you are using children, make sure that their parents understand how the shoot might be scary. When they arrive talk to them about what you are doing and make it fun for them. They are less likely to be frightened once they see any masks or props before they are used. Give your models breaks if they are wearing masks. They can get hot no matter what time of year it is and some vintage masks have a very rubbery smell to them. Let children handle the props being used before you even pick up your camera so that they are familiar with them. You can even show them how you want them to be held and what you are wanting to get from the images. Some children actually enjoy scary stuff and will be more than happy to jump in. Some might need a little more guidance and support from you, so make sure you are paying attention to them.

aubrey bw fb

Lori_Peterson_Unconditional

The fear of dolls is called Pediophobia.

#5 Think Outside of the Box

Witches, ghosts and other Halloween ideas might not be your cup of tea because they are always associated with Halloween. Start thinking of things that fall outside of the typical Halloween realm. In the Halloween movies you were scared of Michael Myers because you could not see his face (and for other reasons too, but you had no idea what lurked under that Shatner mask.). Find some scary masks at a costume shop or online. Look for a gas mask, Plague Doctor, or clown mask. You can even use your own imagination and modify them to make them even scarier. When you can’t tell the identity of the person under the mask there is mystery and a little fear too. Don’t be afraid to create your own props or take old dolls or masks and modify them for your photoshoot.

CreatingaHalloweenPhotoshoot_DigitalPhotographySchool_LoriPeterson_ThePlagueDoctor
The wonderful thing about doing these types of shoots is that you don’t just have to do them close to Halloween. You can work on your ideas at any point through the year and accumulate the props, masks, costumes, or whatever you need and build up to the shoot. You can scout for your location to figure out where you want to do your shoot and what time of year. Exploring your creative side with Halloween photo shoots can bring a new insight into the work you do and you can have a lot of fun with these types of shoots.

Use these tips to participate in the weekly photography challenge: Spooky images for Halloween

The post 5 Tips for Creating Creepy Halloween Photos by Lori Peterson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Tips for Creating Creepy Halloween Photos

Posted in Photography

 

8 Tips for Creating an Online Photography Portfolio

12 Sep

Dreaming about a career as a professional photographer? With the right guidance, practice, skills, network, and portfolio, you can make your dream come true.

Developing the necessary skills required to be a professional photographer cannot easily be summed up in a single blog post, let alone many. And networking… well, if you are like most artists, that can be nightmarish, but nevertheless, is absolutely critical. As your referral network grows, so will your business. But that can take years.

So, you may ask yourself, how do I start?

BBB online portfolio

Step 1 – create your portfolio. This is a great starting point to help launch your career as a photographer.

Here are eight tips to get you on the right path to creating an online photography portfolio and securing those potential gigs.

1. Show off your work:

In other professions, people use their resumes to apply for potential jobs. However, as a photographer, your portfolio will act as the resume and will showcase the breadth of your work. It will give potential clients a deeper look into your particular forte and expertise.

2. Organize:

Site organization

Your breadth of work should be arranged according to theme or subject. If your work is presented in an organized and easy to navigate way, chances are, potential clients will appreciate the curation and level of professionalism that went into putting your portfolio site together. It also makes their lives a lot easier when looking through your work.

3. Show your best work:

Remember, this is your portfolio site, not your external hard drive. So, you want to make sure that only the best of the best goes up. No one needs to see every single thing you ever shot. Clients need to know what you are good at, so make sure to show only those images that truly count. You may also want to put your best work at the forefront of your site. Most clients are busy and don’t have the time to scan through every photo in all of your galleries, so make sure the work that you are most proud of is at the beginning of your photo galleries.

4. SEO, SEO, SEO:

Often times photographers create beautiful sites and then wait around hoping that clients will see them. However, they forget that they need SEO (search engine optimization). How will anyone hire you, if they can’t find you in a search? Use a portfolio service that enables you to take control of your SEO, and includes search engine friendly URLs, crawl-able content, and unique meta tags. These features will drive traffic to specific places on your site and build links to more than just your homepage.

Seo friendly page names

5. Website Builder Versus Custom Website:

You may have good intentions to build your own custom portfolio site, wanting it to be a representation of your own unique brand. However, make your life easier and focus on your work, and leave the coding and technicalities to the professionals. Portfolio builder sites will take the guesswork out of the process and will allow you to quickly put together a working, professional site in a short amount of time, so that you can focus on creating and refining your photography.

6. Choose a platform that makes your life easier:

Nowadays, there are so many portfolio sites to choose from that it can be overwhelming. Some highlight cheap services, various levels of efficiency, and different features. For an aspiring photographer, you want a site that is easy to use, and has a large selection of customizable and flexible templates, so that the site you create truly reflects your personal branding and style. You may also want to use a site that includes unlimited photo proofing. As a professional photographer, you may find yourself uploading thousands of visuals, and you don’t want to be stuck paying for each upload. Stick to a platform that allows you to do this without charging exorbitant fees.

7. Choose a platform that makes your client’s life easier:

Look for a platform that makes it easy for potential clients to use. The platform you decide to go with, should make it easy for clients to navigate your portfolio using a desktop computer, tablet, or smartphone. Using a portfolio website service, with responsive design, will allow your clients to see your site perfectly formatted to their device. Also, if you plan a career as a commercial photographer, like focusing on weddings, kids, etc, you may want to give your clients the option to purchase certain images directly from your site. Look for a site that has a built-in e-commerce function that clients can use to easily choose and purchase the images they love.

8. Marketing:

Marketing

Lastly, you want a site that helps you to connect all your social media pages with your portfolio site. This way, visitors can share your photos on social media platforms with just a click, allowing you to gain more visibility for your brand. You also want to look for a platform that helps you manage your client email list, so that you are ready and organized for sending mass emails.

It may at first seem overwhelming all the things you need to do to get your portfolio together. However, if you really sit down and get your plan together and choose the right portfolio website builder, you can create a beautiful, professional site in days. Now get out there and start putting your site together!

More tips on making a portfolio here:

  • Turning Pro Part I: Portfolio and Persistence
  • How To Build A Portfolio Without Clients
  • How to Present Your Photographic Portfolio and Get Photography Work

The post 8 Tips for Creating an Online Photography Portfolio by Julian Dormon appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 8 Tips for Creating an Online Photography Portfolio

Posted in Photography

 

Beyond the Postcard – 14 Tips for Creating Unique Photographs in Iconic Locations

28 Aug

Photography has been around since the early 1820’s. Of course, back then the technology of “picture taking” was not accessible to the common person. But have things ever changed! With the availability of digital cameras ever present, even in our cell phones, take a moment to consider these facts. Every two minutes today there are as many photos taken as were taken in the entire 19th century (1800s), and ten percent of all the photos ever taken were snapped within the last twelve months!

The Postcard: The Start Westward Monument in Marietta, Ohio.  (18mm 1/80th of a second at f/5, ISO 100)

The Postcard: The Start Westward Monument in Marietta, Ohio. (18mm 1/80th of a second at f/5, ISO 100)

So, with nearly 200 years worth of photographs in our collective albums and portfolios, it has become challenging to find an iconic view or subject that hasn’t been overdone by millions of photographers, especially when it comes to state and national outdoor landmarks. In order to look beyond the “postcard shot”, you need to research unique perspectives and techniques to capture that popular subject in a way that creates an original image. But first, go ahead and take that “postcard shot”. (You know you want to!) Then consider the following 14 different suggestions for creating unique photographs of the most popular spots.

#1 Check the internet

This is a resource past generations would have loved to have! By searching Google, Flickr, 500px and other photo sharing sites you can see how other photographers have captured most popular scenes. Besides seeing the images that have already been done, this will give you an idea of the layout of the location before you arrive. You may also find ideas that other photographers have tried and notice something that you might do differently to make the same image better.

#2 Get to know your location

Research the area by downloading maps and brochures from the internet. If your destination is only open certain days and hours, be sure you’ve garnered that information before you head out on your shoot. Stop at the visitor centers and ask questions.

#3 Talk to the locals

Talking to a “local” can often lead you to all kinds of special photo opportunities that may have never been visited before, such as discovering a special lighting effect that only happens at a certain time of the day or year, or maybe a waterfall that is hidden from view.

#4 Shoot at popular sites during the week

Avoid the weekends when the crowds can make it almost impossible to get an image, especially if you are looking for a shot free of human presence.

#5 Look for new angles

While looking for different angles, don't forget to explore all sides of your subject.

While looking for different angles, don’t forget to explore all sides of your subject.

Try to avoid the obvious straight-on shot that presents itself right in front of you,(the typical postcard shot), but look around for other angles instead – high, low or from the right or left. If you must shoot straight in front, try to include a foreground object.

Caution: If you are in a state or national park, be sure to abide by all park rules! Photographers sometimes tend to think that rules do not apply to them, but you will find that most park rangers will not agree with this point of view. These rules are put in place for your safety or to preserve the beauty of the area you are photographing.

#6 Photograph in different seasons

Photograph the scene or subject in all four seasons. Mother Nature provides amazing changes to scenery, from the different angles of the sun to the different colors of the leaves on the trees.

#7 Look for special events in nature

Some natural happenings can make your image unique, such as a full moon which may be included in the image if you are into nighttime photography. Special weather conditions can be conducive to producing a once-in-a-lifetime image. For example, some photographers may reject shooting on rainy days, but if you have the protective gear for your equipment, the rain can add special visual effects such as reflections or rainbows. Ice and snow coatings are often quite striking additions to outdoor objects both in nature or manmade.

#8 Look for special lighting

Of course the best light of every day will come during the golden hours, following the early morning sunrise and just before evening sunset. If you must shoot in the harsher lighting of midday, consider black and white images which can often produce some visually appealing contrast. If you are out on a heavily overcast day, you may be able to shoot all day, but in most of these cases avoid including the sky in your image. If you have the option, research natural lighting sources by using computer software, such as The Photographer’s Ephemeris, that show the position of the sun and moon to help you determine when the lighting will be best, and what time to arrive to capture your shot. These kinds of software can allow you to anticipate exactly when and where the best lighting may fall, on just the right spot, to create that once in a lifetime image.

Black and white image shot after dark was lit with an off camera flash from the left side of the image.

Black and white image shot after dark was lit with an off camera flash from the left side of the image.

#9 Add the human element

Including a person in the scene not only will add a sense of scale, but can also add excitement and fun to your photo, which will make your image much more interesting to your viewer.

Special events present an opportunity to include a human element, which add extra excitement to your image.

Special events present opportunities to include human elements, which add extra excitement to your images.

#10 Focus on details

Narrowing your focus to capture details can be an especially effective way to create a unique photo. Whether zeroing in on the part of the vista that makes that site unique, or the feature of the statue that expresses its purpose, an original visual story may be captured in your image.

#11 Include a foreground element

Incorporating a foreground object to frame the subject can add depth to your scene and also enhance the image. A foreground object can also be used to lead the viewer’s eye to the subject of your photo.

#12 Use special effects

Two filters that could help make that standout image are the polarizing and neutral density filters. Use of a polarizing filter will enhance the blue of the sky and add color saturation. Use of a neutral density filter will cut down the light entering your camera, which allows you to slow down shutter speeds to capture interesting motion effects with the sky or water. Experimenting with your white balance can also create some interesting results.

This image was created by using multiple exposures. the first image was of the monument against the sky, in the second the camera was turned upside down and captured the top of some nearby tree tops. In each image the sky was overexposed creating the white background.

This image was created by using multiple exposures. The first exposure was of the monument against the sky.  In the second exposure, the camera was turned upside down, capturing the top of some nearby trees. The sky was overexposed in each image, creating the white background.

In this image shot at night the white balance was changed to Tungsten, which causes the monument to have a teal color. The glow above the head was created by the moon glow.

This image was shot at night the white balance was changed to Tungsten, which caused the monument to have a teal color. The glow above the head was created by the moon’s glow.

#13 Vary your focal length

Try different lenses to get varied results, for instance a telephoto lens will not only bring the scene closer to you, but will also compress the scene. On the other hand, a wide-angle lens allow you get more of your subject in the view, make background objects appear farther away, which adds depth to the scene.

In this image the monument is captured just after sunrise giving the monument a nice glow. Also by using a telephoto lens at 150 mm @ f4.8 we compress the photo and the background is out of focus to make the monument stand out

In this image the monument is captured just after sunrise giving it a nice glow. Also by using a 150mm telephoto lens at f/4.8 we compress the photo and the background is out of focus to make the monument stand out.

#14 Experiment with DOF

To narrow your depth of field, open your aperture to a lower number, such as f/ 2.8, and make your subject stand out from the background. A distant landscape requires more depth of field to keep objects in focus, so you may want to close your aperture to something like f/16 to sharpen your image.

Researching your options and incorporating some of these tips will enhance the creative bent so many photographers already possess! Just don’t settle for the easiest, most common photographic result if you can take the time to shoot a more memorable image. Think and imagine your own photographic creations “beyond the postcard”. You’ll be glad you did!

Have any unique photographs from iconic locations or landmarks? Please share in the comments.

The post Beyond the Postcard – 14 Tips for Creating Unique Photographs in Iconic Locations by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Beyond the Postcard – 14 Tips for Creating Unique Photographs in Iconic Locations

Posted in Photography

 

Luminosity Masks Versus HDR Software For Creating Natural Looking HDR Images

27 Aug

Jimmy’s Luminosity Masks Tutorials – Art of Digital Blending Course For Photoshop is on sale now at 15% off over at SnapnDeals. Only until September 6th, grab it now!

If you type the term ‘HDR’ into google images you’ll very quickly see why HDR photography has a bad reputation. While we all differ in our tastes, in recent years, those strongly saturated, blurry and noisy HDRs have fallen out of fashion, even amongst HDR photographers.

Pink seascape

Luminosity Masks Versus HDR Software For Creating Natural Looking HDR Images

The goal, among many, is now a clean HDR look. HDR programs are attempting to tidy up their processes to meet the needs of the demanding HDR photographer. However, a large number of photographers are beginning to take the blending process into their own hands, and produced beautifully balanced HDRs using luminosity masks, probably the cleanest alternative to HDR software.

In fact, luminosity masking has become an exciting buzz-term in the world of digital photography, and there’s good reason for that.

If you’re new to luminosity mask exposure blending, you can see a beginner’s tutorial on dPS in my previous article: Exposure Blending Using Luminosity Masks Tutorial

In this article we’ll take a look at the benefits and challenges of luminosity masks versus HDR software.

Benefits of Luminosity Masks

1. Image quality

We’ve all seen over-saturated, noisy, messy, HDR images. One guaranteed way to avoid the poor image quality we normally associate with HDR is to manually blend your exposures in Photoshop using luminosity masks.

When exposure blending with luminosity masks, you’re working only with the RAW files to restore highlights and shadows. You do not affect any other part of the image. In other words, your final blended image will be, more or less, exactly the same image quality as your RAW files.

You do not affect any colour changes, you retain absolute sharpness, you don’t flare up noise (which means you can shoot at a much higher ISO), and you will not exaggerate chromatic aberration.

This is the major reason why so many are turning to luminosity masking to create natural, balanced HDRs.

Chilean sunset

Sunset at Puerto Natales, Chile

2. Complete control over what we blend

Artists of any genre fight for complete control over their ability to express themselves. And so it is in photography. One of the problems with using HDR software is that we have very little control over the blending process.

We rely on an algorithm to choose which areas to blend with which exposures. Then we’re given some sliders to adjust. Although this gives us greater control over the process, it isn’t giving us 100% control.

Through luminosity masking, we begin with a base exposure, and we then decide for ourselves which exposures we wish to use in the blending process, and which areas we wish to adjust, and at what opacity.

The image below is a good example of how you can make very precise changes with luminosity masks.

Hong Kong Light Trails

Hong Kong Light Trails

This image is made up of 11 exposures; six of which were used for the light trails, four were used for exposure blending, and one was used as the base exposure. You can learn how to create light trails like this here: How To Add Dramatic Car Trails To Your Photos In Photoshop

Below you’ll see the RAW file used for the base exposure.

HK Light Trails

Base Exposure

The only highlights I wanted to control in the image were the street lights, and even then I still wanted them to be bright. Through bright lights like this night cityscapes are able to give off a lot of energy and dynamism.

I very gently blended in three darker exposures to gain a little bit of control in those areas, without darkening them too much. If I ran my exposures through an HDR program, all of the highlights in the image would have been affected to some degree, which is exactly what I didn’t want.

For the darker areas, I only wanted to bring back information in one area, the side building to the right, which is noticeably dark. I used an exposure two stops brighter and, with luminosity masks, I easily painted details back into this area.

#3. No more halos and fewer ghosts

Halos simply don’t exist in luminosity mask exposure blending if you’ve done it correctly.

As for ghosts, you will rarely encounter a moving object that is difficult to blend. Since you use a base exposure, which will be done for most of your images, and simply reduce specific highlights and shadows, there shouldn’t be any ghosting.

The only challenge you may have, which is also a challenge when using HDR software, is if you have moving leaves on trees, for example, between exposures. Then the blending process is a little bit trickier.

#4. Become a better photographer

Mesa arch

Mesa Arch, Before and After Exposure Blending With Luminosity Masks

In my early days I was a die hard tone mapper. I’d approach a scene and think, “this would be a cool HDR subject”. I’d fire off some brackets and take them into Photomatix when I got home. I had a predefined routine of what to do, what result I wanted, and how to get there. I had tunnel vision.

When I began exploring luminosity masks, everything changed. I began to read a scene, not as an HDR subject, but in terms of its unique beauty and mood. I started to grasp more fully the use of light in controlling mood, whereas previously I was simply relying on getting the ‘HDR effect’ each time.

Rather than shooting off a set of automatic brackets, for a complex scene I will often bracket manually, changing the aperture, ISO and shutter speed to capture different elements of the scene. Then I’ll blend in each of the elements to hopefully get the best out of that scene.

In the Hong Kong Light Trails image above, the base exposures and brighter exposures, the light trails, and the darker exposures were all shot manually with different settings to achieve different effects.

It is through using luminosity masks, and taking my imagery into my own hands, that I have pushed myself in the field to achieve more.

#5. Combine with other HDR processes

One of the beautiful things about luminosity masks is that you can combine them with other exposure blending methods to complete the blending process. 32-bit processing is becoming an interesting way of blending exposures cleanly, but we are a long way off before the process is good enough and our monitors can handle true 32-bit files.

However, we can overcome the limitations of 32-bit processing by combining it with luminosity mask exposure blending. The tutorial below will show you exactly what I mean. The video is taken directly from the Art of Digital Blending course:

Challenges with Luminosity Masks

HDR software is simpler

Luminosity masks require more patience and a steeper learning curve than HDR software. The concept takes a little bit of time to get used to, and it will certainly challenge you to re-learn a few things.

While HDR software will take all of the leg-work out of it for you, luminosity masks require you to really think about your exposures and deepen your workflow.

Luminosity Masks don’t work on every occasion

Every now and then you’ll come across an image where luminosity masks won’t create a smooth blend between exposures. This happens because there isn’t enough contrast between the areas you wish to blend and the areas you don’t wish to affect.

In which case, using 32-bit processing or HDR software would be a good alternative.

Luminosity masks work in 8-bit mode

Like all live selections in Photoshop, luminosity masks work in 8-bit mode. They don’t affect the bit depth of your image, so if you’re working at 16 bits that won’t change. But there may be a chance of posterization in some cases.

A quote from Photoshop staff on the Adobe forum claims:

“The selection mask is 8 bits, regardless of the document precision. That fact has no affect on the precision of the image.

No, it won’t change the image or cause future posterization — the image data is still the same precision as it always was.”

So while this shouldn’t be an issue, it is something to be aware of.

Hong kong the peak view

Conclusion

HDR images don’t have to be messy, garish and overdone. There are many ways to cleanly blend exposures to create a beautifully natural and balanced HDR. Having luminosity masks in your arsenal, will give your workflow a superb cutting edge, that can quite literally change your imagery over night.

It will require a little bit of extra work on your part, but often the best things in life do.

Jimmy’s Luminosity Masks Tutorials – Art of Digital Blending Course For Photoshop is on sale now at 15% off over at SnapnDeals. Only until September 6th, grab it now!

  • Getting Real with HDR – a Step by Step Tutorial for Realistic Looking HDR
  • Is the Death of HDR Photography Coming?

The post Luminosity Masks Versus HDR Software For Creating Natural Looking HDR Images by Jimmy McIntyre appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Luminosity Masks Versus HDR Software For Creating Natural Looking HDR Images

Posted in Photography

 

Creating Swirly Bokeh with the Helios 44-2 lens

13 Aug

Hacking_Photography_Helios_44-2_Lens-0086

I recently bought a Sony A7 to compliment my Canon 6D DSLR. A friend convinced me that having small-form, full frame camera would be an entire different way of shooting. I value his opinion, so I picked one up. You can see how I used it in my last article:  when to trick your camera for the perfect exposure.

A New Love of Prime Lenses

I started off with a Sony 55mm f/1.8 and a 24-70mm f/2.8 lens that requires a Sony adapter. The 55mm shoots like a dream and is insanely light-weight.

The 24-70mm and adapter are super heavy and ridiculously front-heavy. It’s a great lens but after taking it out a few times, I concluded it wasn’t for me. I really enjoy having big apertures available for low light so I started looking for another prime lens.

A Lens Defect Leads to Awesome Bokeh

I was looking through photos on Flickr and noticed a few images in which the bokeh appeared to be swirling in a circular pattern. It was awesome and unlike anything I had ever seen!

I did some quick digging and found out this was called “swirly bokeh” and certain vintage lenses created this effect through a manufacturing defect. Well, this “defect” looked really cool to me and I wanted to incorporate it into my lens collection.

Meet the Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 Lens

sony a7, helios lens,

Sony A7 with Helios 44-2 58mm f/2.0 lens

I quickly found out that there is a cult following for a lens called a Helios 58mm f/2. This was a Russian-made lens that essentially tried to emulate a famous Zeiss one.

Several companies made these lenses over several decades, in the millions of units, so they aren’t exactly rare. This means they are really inexpensive because they are so common.

Where to Find the Helios 44-2 Lens

Out of the several models of these lenses, the Helios 44-2 model lens reportedly creates the “swirly bokeh” I was looking for. I did a quick search on Ebay and quickly found a ton of these for sale out of Russia and the Ukraine.

After looking at several of them I found one in excellent condition and ordered it for less than $ 50 including shipping. What a deal! I’ve seen plenty of people get even better deals on Ebay than I did.

Mounting it on the Sony A7 Camera

sony a7, helios lens, helios 44-2,

Mounting the Helios 44-2 to the Sony A7

These lenses were created for the Leica M-mount so I needed to get an M mount adapter for the Sony A7. I picked up a $ 10 Fotasy M42-NEX adapter which works perfectly.

It looks like a Franken-camera. I really dig how crazy this thing looks. Other photographers have stopped to ask what the heck this lens setup is.

Using Manual Focus and Manual Aperture Lenses

english setter, helios 44-2 lens,

The Sony A7 focus assist feature makes it easy to nail perfect focus each time.

I’ve never had a lens that was manual focus only, much less manual aperture. Instead of using a front or rear dial on the camera to choose your aperture, you grab a ring on the front of the lens to change it by twisting it to the left or right.

Some of you reading this are used to these type of lenses, but this was new to me.

Using the Manual Aperture Lens

While the aperture ring took some getting used to it really slowed my photo-taking process down. The aperture ring on the front of the lens reads 16 on the left, then 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, and 2 as you turn to the right. Simply twist the dial to change the aperture.

Manual Focus Rocks with the A7 and the Helios 44-2

Hacking_Photography_Helios_44-2_Lens-0431

Light pole in a Missouri truck stop parking lot surrounded by corn.

The standard challenge with manual focus is trying to eyeball the focus correctly. You might think your subject is in focus but you might be just an inch or two out of focus.

The A7 has focus assist (also called focus peaking) that lights up in-focus sharp details in red so you know what part of the image is in focus. This makes it so simple.

Taking a portrait? Twist the focus ring until a person’s eyes are rimmed in red and guarantee the eyes are sharp in focus. It’s so easy its almost like cheating!

Finally – the Swirly Bokeh

Hacking_Photography_Helios_44-2_Lens-0100

This unfocused image shows the popular swirly bokeh effect

I bought the lens right before a two-week trip to St. Louis, Missouri to visit family. It arrived the day before we left so it was ready to go right away. After a quick test shoot I decided I was going to shoot this Helios 58mm 44-2 exclusively for the entire trip.

Finding the swirly sweet spot

I took the lens into my in-laws yard to find out how best to find the swirly spot. When you shoot wide open at f/,2 close up to the subject, the background is a beautiful, buttery, soft bokeh.

flowers

This image was shot up close which caused the background to blur too much for the swirl I was looking for. I aimed up at a leaf that was a little further away, still shooting wide open at f/2.

It isn’t swirly bokeh yet, but it definitely has more shape to it. I’m getting closer.

branch bokeh

I took another shot with a subject at mid range, perhaps 4-5 feet away while still shooting wide open at f/2.

swirly bokeh, helios lens, helios 44-2

Can you start to see the swirl shape in the background? This photo showed me I’m getting closer. It seems that you need some decent distance from your subject, and you need some background that can fall into swirly bokeh in the distance.

I aimed up at a birdhouse about 8 feet away, which conveniently had a cute little toad in the lower peep hole and took the shot.

swirly bokeh, helios lens, helios 44-2

Success! Apparently you need a pretty good distance in the background so the little light spots and details can register into that swirl shape. I’m really in love with this Helios 44-2 lens.

The Helios 44-2 lens is fast with the f/2 aperture, weighs next to nothing, and was incredibly inexpensive at less than $ 50 including shipping. Even at very small apertures, it tops out at f/16, the lens puts out beautiful images.

Mississippi river,

The first of many manual focus prime lenses

I’ve had such a great time with this lens that I’m going to purchase more manual focus primes. The glass creates very unique images and I can’t wait to pick up my next one.

Have you ever mounted older lenses with your DLSR camera?

If so let me know what lens(es) you have in the comments below as I’m looking to try out even more. Share your images too please.

The post Creating Swirly Bokeh with the Helios 44-2 lens by Mike Newton appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Creating Swirly Bokeh with the Helios 44-2 lens

Posted in Photography

 

Overcoming the Fear – Creating Better Travel Photography Portraits

22 Jul

Pick up Oded’s new Snapn Guide (a dPS sister company) Snapn Travel here for only $ 7. A lifetime of travel memories in a Snap.

Traveling is fun and rewarding, but sharing memories of your journeys with friends, family and the world through your own beautiful images can be even better. Especially rewarding are images of the interesting people you meet along the way, because creating travel photography portraits can be an amazing addition to your portfolio.

But, if taking pictures of strangers while interacting with them makes you uneasy, maybe even feeling a bit of fear? GOOD! Then this article is for you.

F11A1011

The world of photography is divided between two groups of people: those who enjoy creating portrait photography and those who do not. Through discussion with my own students I have realized that only about ten percent of those who avoid portrait photography actually do not like it. The remaining ninety percent, so I discovered, are hiding, deep down inside, a photographer who really desires to shoot portraits, especially when he or she travels to interesting and distant places, meeting people from other cultures.

But it is not that easy. Let’s be honest, sometimes it’s super hard. So what we do is we wrap ourselves with excuses like: “I do not feel comfortable with this”,”I do not want to invade a person’s privacy” and as the “golden excuse” we used that one story of someone who shouted at us at some market in Morocco.

Blue guy

First, from my experience, getting yelled at (and all kinds of other problems) only starts when you take photos of someone from a distance and they catch you in the act.

Paprlika princeBut here is another fact: there is nothing like photographing someone from a close distance. The eyes, the feelings and the huge visual story potential within. Besides, when we work from a close distance while interacting with the person, we gain control of our tools as photographers: composition, background, the “decisive moment” and we also have that amazing ability to tell the photographed person: “you know what, let’s take one more shot”.

In 99% of my travel photography work with magazines, I photograph portraits from a close distance, without hiding myself or hiding the fact I am taking a photo. Now, some will say that when a person sees a camera, it affects the authenticity of the moment. I will address this issue later.

First rule: tell, do not just show

This is the # 1 mistake of bad travel photography: trying to show a story, instead of telling it. Creating a diary instead of evoking feelings. Here is the unpleasant truth; apart from our family and close friends, no one cares where we travel and who we meet along the way. If you want to succeed in exciting your viewers, you need turn to a different approach.

10

Before the digital era, it was enough if you traveled to the other side of the world and came back with images of people from some exotic tribe. You know, those “colorful” images, of people with a bone stuck in their nose. Today, when almost every corner of our planet has been photographed, this is not enough anymore and we have to return to the basics; to that one element that hasn’t changed since the beginning of time – a story.

We are just obsessed with stories. A person is not only clothes, a Cuban cigar or colorful sari; a person is an entire story. A story is a complex thing to create, so for the first step I will ask that your images be able to answer this question: how does the person in the image feel? Is it a comedy or a tragedy? Has he just finished a day of hard work or is he enjoying a vacation? Look at the person’s body language and listen to his voice. Try to convey the type of feeling you had while meeting this person.

134.jpg

Choose the right equipment

Remember the following equation – if you have a telephoto lens, you will to use it, because that is the easiest way of shooting people, from a distance. Instead, go with a wide lens (up to 50 mm for full frame, 35mm for cropped sensor). Also, try to avoid complicated and sophisticated equipment like flash and tripods. This will attract unwanted attention in the streets and you will be busy handling the gear instead of focusing on the story in front of you.

73 08

Read about the culture

Yes, in India they wear sari and in Cuba they smoke cigars. To get a more in-depth story of the culture, you have to learn about it first. Prior to your trip, do a brief study of the place you are about to visit. View images, read material and mainly, answer important questions like:

  • How will people react to the camera?
  • Do I need to pay for taking a picture?
  • Are there things that I should not photograph?

In order to answer these questions you can ask someone who visited the destination or look for information on the web. If you do not know anything about the culture, you will fall into the cliché of photogenic tourist traps. But if you come with knowledge, it will affect your photography. My editor at the National Geographic Traveler magazine calls this “photographic intelligence”. Go the extra mile and read about the history of the place, the religious system, the food and the local music, which leads me to our next tip.

F11A7455

Use the local music to your advantage

Recently I photographed a story on the Dominican Republic. It was the first time I worked on this side of the world and suddenly I felt as if I almost forgot how to take pictures. I did not approach anyone and at first, my photography did not come out well at all. So, I just listened to some local music on my headphones. I do not recommend staying with headphones all the time, because it cuts you off from the environment. But for the first day, it’s a great tip; it puts you in the groove and makes you feel good. In conclusion, on the first day of your trip, do not trouble yourself with approaching strangers. Relax, listen to the local music, get into the groove and warm up with easier image making: buildings, landscape, food, etc.

71

Get outside when the lighting is right

The meaning of “Photography” is drawing with light. Even the most photogenic person will not look good in unsuitable light. There are no rules about lighting – no “good” or “bad”. There is appropriate and inappropriate lighting, because light has varying qualities: color, direction, strength, softness, etc. According to most photographers, the best light for most situations is within the “golden hours”: around sunrise and sunset. If this is your first time approaching people in order to photograph them, let the light be on your side. Try adjusting the correct time to go outside. If you cannot control the time (like when on an organized tour) try to photograph people in the shade.

34

Force yourself – get out of your comfort zone

After a day of listening to the local music, getting the groove and warming up with easy shots, it is time to start working. Do not delay it, even if it is very hard for you. Just fake it until you make it:

  1. 72Choose: choose a person you would like to photograph. Don’t use excuses like: “I can’t find anyone special”. Just make the shot, even if it’s only for practice. It is very important that you choose a person who is not on the move, because you need to get ready BEFORE approaching him, so it will be easier in a static situation (a seller in market stand, or someone relaxing at the park)
  2. Get ready: know your lens and exposure. Think about the composition and background.
  3. Approach: ask the person if you can take their photo. You can ask verbally or just by lifting the camera and smiling, waiting for a smile back.
  4. Explain: it doesn’t matter if you are in NYC or Tibet; people want to know why you are taking their photo. You can tell them how much you liked their shop, pet, hair, etc., or just mention that you like portrait photography and you would like to take their photo. Usually this kind of good feedback will be enough.

Now, you might get a NO for an answer. That’s okay! Say “thank you” and then just “get back on the horse”, move on to the next person. You might get a YES. That’s wonderful! Relax, think about the framing and make the image.

F11A9627

So what about the authenticity of the moment?

It’s True. Usually when a person is asked to be photographed, they will put on a “mask”. You can call it their pose. Sometimes this pose might be the thing you are looking for. When photographing two men for a story I did in India for the National Geographic Traveler magazine, that pose (image below), which is so typical for the Rabari tribe men, was perfect for the story I wanted to tell.

Page 29 b

If you don’t want the pose, my solution – give your subject time and space. Do not stop him or her from making that pose. Give them a positive feedback and show them how nice the first photo came out. From my experience, after a minute or two, the masks fall. That is because someone eventually will enter your subject’s shop, or they will receive a phone call or anything that might make your subject forget you are still there. This is the moment of magic. This is when the best pictures happen.


Pick up Oded’s new Snapn Guide (a dPS sister company) Snapn Travel here for only $ 7. A lifetime of travel memories in a Snap

  • Learn how to bring the emotion of your trip home with you, not just a memory card.
  • Become a travel photographer instead of a photographing traveller.

 

The post Overcoming the Fear – Creating Better Travel Photography Portraits by Oded Wagenstein appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Overcoming the Fear – Creating Better Travel Photography Portraits

Posted in Photography

 

Creating Abstract Images in Nature

22 Jul

What is a working definition of “abstract” nature photography? Nature so easily lends itself to subjects realistic and dream-like, but what about abstract? You may have heard it said “If it is recognizable as an object – it is not an abstract,” but let’s challenge that notion.

Abstract pics_0006_Diagonal Lines

There are no clear rules to abstract photography. The object of the photo may or may not be recognizable. Abstract images may contain a small portion of an object or multiple objects. An abstract will often concentrate on a limited area of a subject that reveals a shape, pattern, form, color or texture. Movement can also create abstract images, such as rushing water or the wind blowing a flower. To capture an image in nature as an abstract, you don’t need any special equipment – just a camera, and the most importantly, your own imagination. What matters most is that your photograph reveals an eye-pleasing image, whether you can identify the actual subject or not.

In this article you are not going to find any magical camera settings to create abstracts, because you need to think “outside the box“. Discovering the right setting is often the key to a great abstract. Don’t be afraid to put your camera in manual mode, and experiment with different apertures and shutter speeds. Remember that your aperture will control your depth of field, and your shutter speed affects the sharpness or blurriness of the image. Likewise, normal rules of image composition do not always apply to abstract photography. The key is to become super-observant, looking for even the smallest of objects with which to create an abstract image.

Where we look to other forms of photography to tell a story or record an event, abstract photography is about capturing an emotion. There are five key elements you want to consider in creating abstract images: lines, shapes, textures, patterns and colors:

Lines

Lines are the base element of design, and their uses are the fundaments of any artistic image.

  • Lines that intersect are lines that come from different directions into and out of an image, which can give the viewer a sense of chaos.
  • Curved lines allow the viewer’s eye to explore the image in a smooth free-flowing manner, evincing a much calmer emotion than straight lines.
  • Repetitive lines or lines in repeating patterns manifest a sense of power and predictability, rhythm and movement in an image.
  •  Diagonal lines are more visually pleasing than verticals or horizontals and will lead the viewer’s eyes at a much slower pace than a straight up-down line. (By rotating your camera you can turn your verticals and horizontals into diagonals.)

Abstract pics_0007_out of the fog

Shapes

Shapes are found everywhere in nature, and can be used to create visual meaning in a photo. To capture an abstract image, choose a shape that is interesting and pleasing to the eye. It’s very important that the shape creates an emotional response from the viewer; this is called the “wow” factor.

  • Circles evoke flow, continuity and sensuality.
  • Triangles create a sense of stability if set on their base, or precariousness if set on their point.
  • Squares exhibit stability and order.
  • Spirals create a sense of energy, flexibility and life cycles.

pink flower

 Textures

Texture is created by the roughness of a surface and may seem to be completely random. Textures are often a product of lines. Light and shadow create depth (a macro lens can be useful to capture textures).

Abstract pics_0009_rocks

Patterns

Patterns are similar to textures, but are much more structured. Patterns can sometimes be mathematically composed by Mother Nature, for example; snowflakes and spider webs.

Abstract pics_0001_spiders web

Colors

Colors in abstracts are useful in catching your viewer’s attention.  Look for complementary colors as they will hold your viewer’s attention longer.

Abstract pics_0000_fall colors

Some other tips to get started on your photographic nature abstract project:

  • Photograph common objects. Trees, rocks, gravel, seashells, dew drops – even the most common of subjects can produce abstracts.
  • Use depth of field to capture the image you want. Change your F-stop (aperture) to control your depth of field.  This is especially useful when shooting textures, when you may need your entire subject to be tack sharp.
  • Use motion. Using a slow shutter speed to capture objects in motion can create some very interesting effects.
  • Experiment with your white balance. As mentioned earlier, in abstract photography you do not always need to follow the usual rules of   conventional photography and you are free to tweak your white balance to create interesting colors.
  • Adjust color saturation to create pleasing colors and look for complementary colors.
  • Look for creative uses of light for varying effects on your abstracts.

Abstract pics_0005_rushing water

Abstract Blurs

Another method to experiment with uses camera motion to create abstract blurs. Motion blurs are perfect for those nature settings that lack creative inspiration. This method takes a lot of experimentation and you will throw away a lot more images than you keep, but the rewards are worth it when you finally capture that great image. Look for subjects with lines, bright colors and good contrast, like trees and flowers. Warning: this method can become addicting!

Abstract pics_0003_first light

To set up your camera for abstract blurs:

  1. Set the camera to manual or shutter priority, which ever you are most comfortable with using.
  2. Set your ISO as low as possible.
  3. Set shutter speed between 1/4 and 1/20, depending on what your subject is and how close you are to it. Far-off objects may require a slower shutter speed than closer ones to get the blurred effect.
  4. Adjust your aperture to get a good exposure as you would normally do for any image.
  5. Look for lower light conditions such as early morning or late evening which will allow for slower shutter speeds without the need of using a very small aperture. It may become necessary to use a Neutral Density filter if your scene is too bright.
  6. Set your Focus. It is important to focus your camera on the subject even though your resulting image will not appear to be in focus. Press your shutter release half way down to focus on your main subject (back button focus can be a useful tool here).
  7. Now with your subject still in focus, move your camera to follow the lines of your subject, depressing the shutter as you pass by your main subject, it is important to follow through after the shutter is closed. This will keep all your color tones consistent all the way through your exposure. Experiment with the speed of your camera movement to find the best result.
  8. Repeat, until you get a result that is pleasing.

In conclusion, the next time you are out with your camera, be observant and look for visual details and interesting ways to express your emotional and artistic viewpoint with an abstract image found in nature. If you have any other ideas on how to make abstracts in nature, please share in the comments below.

The post Creating Abstract Images in Nature by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Creating Abstract Images in Nature

Posted in Photography

 

5 Tips for Creating a Photo Essay with a Purpose

24 Jun

As a photographer, you are a storyteller. The nouns are your subject matter; the verbs are the color and contrast that keep the story moving. A cast of characters all working together to get your point across. Instead of proper grammar, you ensure proper exposure. Instead of spelling errors, you watch for tack-sharp focus. For those times when the story is especially important and meaningful, or for when one image doesn’t say it all, there is the photographic essay. With blogging and social media, photo essays are more popular than ever: humorous or emotionally relevant, sparking debate or encouraging compassion, each with a story to tell.

melanie1

I’ve mentioned before that taking on a photo project is one of my favorite ways to reignite my love for photography, but beyond that, it’s a great way to get your message across and have your work seen by a larger group. A photo essay is intriguing; it’s something to talk about after people hear that you’re a photographer and want to know about the glitz and glamour of it all. It’s the perfect thing to tell them after you’re done going on and on about all of the red carpets, the celebrities, the fame, and the fortune. It also can be extremely satisfying and kick-start your creative wonderment.

By definition, a photographic essay is a set or series of photographs intended to tell a story or evoke emotions. It can be only images, images with captions, or images with full text. In short, it can be almost anything you want it to be. Which is where I struggle most–when the options are limitless. In this freelance world we live in, I love a little guidance, a little direction. Ideally, someone to tell me exactly what they want and promise to be thrilled with whatever I produce, for my fragile artist ego can’t take any less. While I continue my quest for that, I offer you these 5 tips for creating your own, completely without bounds, photographic essay:

1) Let it evolve on its own

Each time I’ve had a very specific concept in mind before I started shooting, it’s never been the end result. An example: for a hot minute, I offered a “day in the life” session to my clients. I was photographing so many of the same clients year after year that I wanted to be able to offer them a different spin on the portrait sessions I was doing for them. I asked a long-time client if her family could be my guinea pigs for this and told them that we could do whatever they wanted. We went out for ice cream, had a mini dance party in their living room, and I photographed a tooth that had been lost that very morning. Then, very last, I photographed the two young daughters with notes they had written, which to be honest, I’m not even sure how they had come about. I rushed home after the session and edited those last note pictures first just because they were so different from what I usually shoot, and posted them on my personal Facebook page the heading Notes Girls Write.

sarah

gracie

Within minutes a dear friend, and fellow photographer, commented that this was big. Bigger than just the two pictures. She and I would spend the next year working on a photo essay that became a blog, that in turn became a book entitled Notes Girls Write. We photographed hundreds of women of all ages with their notes, each one later expressing having their portrait taken with their own words was an extremely powerful moment for them. Beyond my beautiful children, the fact that I can make a bed with hospital corners like no one’s business, and the award I won in the 4th grade for “Most Patient”, Notes Girls Write is one of my proudest accomplishments. It evolved on its own, starting from a few similar photographs that struck a cord in viewers and becoming a large and powerful project, one of the biggest markers in my career so far.

lindsay1

IMG_6287b

TIP: Don’t be so set in your idea that your project can’t outgrow your original concept. Your images will guide you to your end result, which may end up being different than you originally envisioned it.

2) If you think there’s something there, there’s likely something there

For the last year I have been a “foster mom” with a dog rescue group. Volunteers transport dogs that would otherwise be put down from overpopulated shelters, or seized from terrible situations, to my area, where dog adoption rates are much higher. These dogs live in foster homes while they receive medical care and basic training so that they can be adopted out to loving homes. It’s incredibly rewarding. Especially when I had hardwood floors.

I knew from the first time I met the transport van I wanted to document what it looked like: a van full of dogs that just narrowly escaped death arriving to temporary homes where they will experience a level of love and care which they’ve likely never known. I tear-up every time I see it. I am also put to work every time I am there, so taking photos while holding onto a 100 pound German Shepard is tough. It’s going to take me several trips to have enough images to do anything with, but that’s fine. I have no idea what I will be doing with these photos. I know they will find a home somewhere: maybe with the rescue group to raise awareness, or to help bring in volunteers, or maybe they will do nothing more than document my own story with volunteering, or perhaps something more. I’m not sure yet, but the point is that I have the images, ready for their time, whenever that is.

dog1

dog2

dog3

TIP: If you think there is something to it, there likely is. Even if it’s just a personal passion project. Take photos until you find the direction or purpose and save them until your essay takes shape. You may not end up using all, or any of the images, but in continuing to take photographs, your project will be defined.

3) Shoot every single thing

I’m the “World’s Worst Over-Shooter”. Need one image? Let me take a hundred so we know we have it. Luckily for my bad habit, the photographic essay needs over shooting. Whether you know what your plan is, or have no idea want your end result will look like, the more coverage you have, the better. This is one of the few times I push my luck and ask my subjects to work for me until they never want to see me again (I only photograph people though, so if you are photographing mountains or something, you have the added advantage of not pushing people until they cry or yell). Don’t be shy. Shoot everything you know you don’t need, just in case you need it. Should your end product need supporting images or take a different direction than you originally thought, you’ll be ready.

Take advantage of digital (if that’s how you shoot) and fill a memory card. You may end up trashing everything, or you may not. I had no idea that my Notes Girls Write project would span for as long as it did, but because I didn’t turn down anyone who was interested in the very beginning I ended up with some shots that told complete stories and expanded on the original concept.

sarah2

sarah3

TIP:  Think big. If you are shooting an essay where mountains are your subject matter, see the mountain in pieces and photograph the surrounding trees, rocks, and whatever else. This will save you having to return to the beginning of the project for supporting shots, or having to reshoot if your essay takes a different turn than you planned.

4) Ask for help with image selection

I struggle with this one–I let my personal feelings get involved. Throughout our Notes Girls Write project I was constantly picking images based on my personal feelings–the subjects that I had connected with more, and the girls that I knew were most interested in the project. This is where it is so helpful to have someone else help. Someone who has no personal feelings towards the images and will help you pick based only on the strength of the image and not your own feelings. Even if people were not involved as subjects, you tend to have personal feelings toward images that the general public may not see the power behind.

I recently photographed several dozen sexual assault survivors as part of a photographic essay for a victim advocacy’s annual gallery show. This event is meant to put faces on the survivors and raise awareness, and has been a large local event for years. I was thrilled to be selected to be the exclusive photographer, though this was one of the hardest projects I’ve ever taken on. The photo sessions themselves, whether five minutes or 30, were extremely emotional for the survivors and in the time I spent with them, I often learned a lot about their journey and experience. This made it difficult for me to pick which final images would be used for the show, based only on the power of the image and not my personal feelings. In the end several select friends helped me narrow each survivor’s images down, and the subjects themselves selected which would be the final image used, as ultimately this is their story.

SAVA1

SAVA2

SAVA3

TIP: All creative work is personal, and looking at photographs we take ourselves is incredibly hard to do with clear eyes. We see the mistakes, the personal feelings, the shot that could have been better. It’s impossible to always set these aside so when working on a project that is incredibly important to you, or large in scale. Have others help you decide what images to use for your final pieces. Bring in people who are interested in photography and people that aren’t. People that know about your subject matter and people that don’t understand it at all. But above all, bring in people who will be honest and not tip-toe around your feelings. Lastly, also bring a thick skin.

5) Tell your story, in fact shout it from the rooftops if you can

Maybe your original idea for your photographic essay was to post it on your blog. Awesome, nothing wrong with that, but are you sure it can’t be more? Shop it around, who can it help? Does this benefit a group, an organization, or a person? Could it inspire people? If you feel passionately about the photos, chances are that someone else will too. Your photographic eye doesn’t stop when your shooting is done. If you felt compelled to take the time to create a photographic essay, there are likely “readers” for your story.

img_6359b

TIP: This isn’t the time to be humble. Taking on a photo essay is a large endeavour. While there’s nothing wrong with having it be something you only did for your own personal growth, showing it around can be helpful both in experience and longterm benefit. Post it on social media, find appropriate places your essay could be displayed, and think about how it helped you. Every single photo essay I have done has led to an outstanding connection, or more work, and there is nothing wrong with getting those things along with the personal gain of accomplishing something you’re proud of.

The ideas are truly for a photographic essay are limitless. Truly.

Want a few more ideas for projects, try these?

  • Using a Photography Project to Spark your Creativity
  • Photography projects that make you feel alive
  • Jumpstart Your Photography – Start a 365 Project
  • 8 Photo Projects in Your Own Backyard

Have you ever done a photographic essay? What is your experience? Share with in the comments if you have, or have considered it. If you haven’t, what are you waiting for?

The post 5 Tips for Creating a Photo Essay with a Purpose by Lynsey Mattingly appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 5 Tips for Creating a Photo Essay with a Purpose

Posted in Photography

 

Updated: Creating the Leica T

25 Apr

Taifun_Body_Porto_cmyk09-sm.jpg

No one will deny that Leica cameras are expensive. But there’s more to the cost than just that red dot on the front. Each of the company’s new ‘T’ mirrorless cameras are built by hand in Germany with incredible precision. View the transformation from aluminum brick to finished product. We’ve just updated this slideshow with some insights from Leica’s head of product management, Stefan Daniel. Click through to see (and read) more. 

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Updated: Creating the Leica T

Posted in Uncategorized