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Posts Tagged ‘Create’

How to Create Better Photos by Adding a Sense of Motion

10 Sep

Photographing subjects in motion can be kind of tricky because of the very nature of photography as an art form: cameras capture still images, not moving pictures (unless you are Harry Potter and like to read the Daily Prophet).

Of course, one solution is to record a movie with your camera or phone, but even a movie is in itself a series of still images projected quickly, that only give the illusion of motion. Each individual frame is not moving, but put together it appears as though everything you see is changing. Another solution, and one I generally prefer, is to use some knowledge of composition to create a sense of motion in a single photograph. It’s not all that difficult, but these techniques do require a bit of knowledge, a lot of practice, and in the end your photos will be much more dynamic and interesting as a result.

motion-and-composition-bike-car

One of the most basic elements of composition is called the Rule of Thirds. It has to do with putting your subjects off-center in order to add more visual impact to your photos. It’s not a hard-and-fast rule, and some people swear by it while others reject it altogether, but understanding how it affects motion photography can go a long way towards giving your pictures an extra boost. To offer an example, take a look at the following image of my niece on her bike.

motion-and-composition-bike-center-panning-2

My niece on her bike. There’s clearly a sense of motion, but putting her in the center is not the best use of photographic compositional space.

This image involves a technique called panning, which helps create the illusion of motion by tracking a moving subject with your camera, while the shutter is open. But, take a look at how the girl is framed – she in the center of the image, and you can see her surroundings on all sides. It seems like a good picture at first, but take a look at how a simple compositional change can have a dramatic impact on the sense of motion created by the image.

motion-and-composition-bike-center-panning

Putting the subject off-center shows not just that the girl is biking, but the space into which she is traveling.

I took this second picture using spot focus on my camera which allowed me to select which focusing point to use, and selected a point on the left side of the frame. Doing this placed my niece right along one of the vertical gridlines, if we look at this image as it relates to the classic Rule of Thirds:

motion-and-composition-bike-left-panning-grid

Both the girl, and her bicycle, line-up with the one-third dividing lines, which helps create a more pleasing and dynamic composition.

Aligning my subject on the left third of the image (and the horizontal center of the bike along the bottom third) has done a couple of things. First, it makes for a more pleasing image due to the off-center placement of my subject. It allows us to see more context overall, since she is on one side and not dominating the entire image. Second, the other goal this placement accomplishes has to do with motion – we see her not only biking, but biking to somewhere. By showing us where she is going, our minds essentially create a greater sense of movement because we can see more context.

This works almost any time you have an object in motion, whether you employ the panning technique or not. Simply placing your subject on one side of the image (often along one of the dividers according to the Rule of Thirds) such that it is moving in the direction of the rest of the image (put more space in front of the subject than behind), will help your photos will seem much more dynamic and interesting. It helps your viewers to get a sense that they were actually there with you at the moment of the picture.

If panning isn’t quite your thing, you can still employ some compositional techniques to create a greater sense of motion. Here’s a picture of my other niece riding her bike that I took from a standing position. I see pictures like this posted online quite a bit, and while they are not bad photos, a change to how they are composed can dramatically alter the visual impact.

motion-and-composition-bike-center-2

My other niece biking, taken from a standing position without much thought put into overall composition.

Again you see that she is in the center of the image (above), and while this picture is perfectly serviceable, there is a lot that can be done to create a greater sense of motion. Here’s another picture of the same scenario, but taken from ground level as she approached me down the alley.

motion-and-composition-bike-right-2

Altering my angle to be low to the ground, and putting the girl on the right-hand side, creates a much more dynamic photo. This was shot with a DSLR but could have easily been taken with any camera or even a mobile phone.

I had to lie on the ground to get this shot, but the results were well worth it. The low angle helps make the shot much more interesting, and the open space on the left side shows us the empty street that she will soon be riding on. This general framing is used all the time in photos of moving objects, and is a favorite of the advertising industry as well: you will often see pictures of sports cars not from the top and side (as in the first of these two bike photos) but from a low angle, and the front wheels turned away from the viewer, much more akin to the second photo. And sure enough, this image also conforms quite well to the good old-fashioned Rule of Thirds.

motion-and-composition-bike-right-grid-2

There are other ways to play with composition to create a sense of motion in photos; the Rule of Thirds is just the beginning. This photo of a man walking past a fountain violates the first rule about showing the subject on one side moving towards the rest of the image, but it works because we’re not so much interested in where he is going but what the entire scene is about.

motion-and-composition-fountain

Putting the subject on the left side of this photo creates a different mood and tone than if the man were on the right-hand side.

By using a longer shutter speed, and holding my camera still I was able to capture motion, not only in the man walking, but the water rolling off the fountain. If the position of the man and the fountain were reversed it might look as though he is walking into it. But as it is, the motion of my human subject is one part of the picture as a whole, and the falling water adds another dynamic layer to the image.

The placement of the man creates a bit of tension as well; he is clearly carrying something, and from the words on the wall it’s obvious that he is walking past a library. Is he a student that’s late for class? Is he walking fast to catch up to some friends who are out of the frame? Putting him on the right-hand side would make the image seem a bit more casual and informal. But, intentionally composing this shot so that he is about to walk out of the frame, imparts a different feeling on the viewer that can be very effective when used properly. Also note that both the fountain and the man line up roughly with the traditional Rule of Thirds grid, which helps create a more pleasing composition all around.

I should note that the reliance on the Rule of Thirds can become a crutch, and there are many creative ways to take motion-based images without it. What about you? What are some compositional tricks you have found to help create a sense of motion in your photographs? Do you have any favorite motion images to share? Leave your thoughts in the comments below.

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The post How to Create Better Photos by Adding a Sense of Motion by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Create Your Own Movie Easily

06 Sep

The high quality home movie creator software such as Movavi, is a great help for you who want to be creative and creating your own movie. The software will help you to join the audio and video files. All you need to do is to install and run the movie creator software, and then prepare […]
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How to Create an Incredible Street Photography Project from A to Z

20 Aug

With a camera in hand anyone can proclaim himself or herself a street photographer. However, urban imagery requires vision. Most street photographers operate in a spontaneous way, but if you take a closer look at their projects they all have a key-element at the heart of their work, an idea that drives them. Street photography translates into emotional reactions to Continue Reading

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5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White

14 Aug

Can you visualize the world around you in black and white? It’s not easy to do at first with an array bright colors competing for your attention. Look a little closer however, and you may recognize the broad potential for expressive imagery. Of course, not every situation lends itself to this artistic style. There are however, certain characteristics you can look for, to identify the best opportunities.

1) Embrace High Contrast

A subject with dark shadows and bright highlights would not be ideal for a color photograph. In fact, it’s one of the reasons techniques like HDR have become so popular. Yet, for black and white photography, this type of high contrast light can be extremely effective. The harsh mid-afternoon sun is no longer a detriment, but an enhancement. This is a major shift in the way one thinks about exposure. To help recognize these chances, look beyond what is immediately evident and pre-visualize the scene in grayscale. A scene you passed on, in color may prove quite dramatic in black and white.

As is always the case in all good art, rules are meant to be broken. The same is true with black and white exposures. You have even more flexibility as shadows can be inky black, and highlights can clip the histogram while retaining the image’s visual appeal. To maximize the dynamic range of the camera, use the “ETTR” technique (expose to the right). Rather than a muddy exposure, you’ll enjoy the crisp contrast of the full tonal range.

2) Simplify with Shape and Form

In the absence of color, shapes and patterns become more pronounced. Lighter tones will stand out boldly when placed in front of a darker area. This is an effective way emphasize the important parts of a subject while minimizing distractions. To compose this way, think about the process of subtraction. What can you remove from the image that’s not essential to the story? As you simplify, the design of the photo will get stronger.

Even something as simple as a shadow on the ground can be used creatively. To the human eye, detail is evident in the pavement, but with a camera they can be rendered as inky black. This may be a very different style of seeing for you. To practice, I recommend taking a photo hike in which you search for nothing but shadows. You may be pleasantly surprised by how many interesting shots you’ll find.

3) Details Tell a Story

It’s been said that a person’s eyes are the windows to their soul. Their character however, can often be revealed in their hands. In black and white, the subtle details that often go unnoticed become more evident. Wrinkles and texture, for example, benefit from a deeper more textured appearance. This method is especially effective when using flat or overhead light. Typically this direct light would be undesirable, but in grayscale it can be preferable to that of a softer, diffused quality light.

4) Imagine a Mood

Blue skies are often used to symbolize happiness. You’ll see this pattern in magazine ads, television commercials, and even movies. Black and white images however, are associated with a different variety of moods. The precise emotion is ultimately up to the viewer, but a few common themes include solitude, contemplation, and pensiveness. Photographers of all genres can work with these traits to effectively portray their vision.

Use your imagination to visualize the mood you want an image to have. A great place to start is to study some of the masters. While Ansel Adams’ landscapes in black and white are very well known, go further in your research. For example, look at the emotion in Edward Weston’s famous “Pepper No. 30”. Another fine representation of this medium is “White Sands, New Mexico” by Ernst Haas. Of course the list goes on, but these are a good place to start. A visit to a local library will undoubtedly prove inspirational as you may discover work by artists you are not yet familiar with.

5) Dark Spaces and Silhouettes

Subjects that linger in darkness are sometimes more compelling than well-lit scenes. Using black and white photography, you have the ability to show the world in a completely different way. Instead of eliminating the shadowy areas, use them to your advantage. An empty space can actually be an effective method of composition. This type of artistic exposure is more edgy than a literal interpretation.

Take a look through your own catalog of images. There will likely be a number of photos that could be quite dramatic as a black and white. As you convert them from color, experiment with different post production filters to see how it impacts the scene. For example, a blue filter may lighten the sky dramatically, whereas a yellow filter will make it darker. If you’re looking for even greater control, there are a number of excellent plugins available. One of my favorites is Exposure by Alien Skin as it offers nearly endless customization. More terrific options include software by Nik, Topaz, and OnOne.

Editor’s Note: This is the first article in a week full of features on black and white photography. Look for another one later today and daily over the next week.

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How to Create a Spectacular Background Using an El Bokeh Wall

11 Aug

Bokeh is the aesthetic quality of the blur, in the out-of-focus areas of an image. You can easily get this spectacular background blur in your photos using a fast prime or macro lens (basically ones with an aperture of f/2.8 or greater), and a technique involving what many call the El Bokeh Wall.

Photo A  Uddhav Gupta  uddhav98 gmail com

In my opinion, the El Bokeh wall is very effective at creating eye-popping bokeh, which can help make your picture more interesting and unique in its own right. However, keeping in mind the potential it has, it doesn’t seem to be used often enough. It is very simple though, you can do it without any special equipment, using things you will probably be able to find lying around at home.

(NOTE: Several demonstrations of this technique use a speed-light. For those without such equipment, don’t worry, there IS a very good alternative which this tutorial will tell you about!)

THINGS YOU’LL NEED:

  • A camera
  • A macro or prime lens with a large aperture for nice bokeh (you can still try to do it even if you don’t have one of these, but your attempt may or may not be successful)
  • A tripod
  • Aluminium foil (You’ll probably have some in the kitchen. If not, it’s very cheap to buy)
  • A speedlight, or as in this tutorial, use an alternative light source instead. You can use a flashlight or download an app onto your smartphone which allows you to use its flash as a light)
  • A subject
  • A background (you can use a piece of cardboard)

STEPS FOR SETTING UP THE EL BOKEH WALL

You’ll be surprised at how simple it really is:

Step one: Get as much aluminium foil as you think you will need to sufficiently cover your background

Step two: Crumple the aluminium foil into a loose ball (as shown here)

Step 2

Step three: Open up the ball, without smoothing out the crinkles (these will reflect the light, which will create the magnificent bokeh you need) – be careful not to tear the foil in this step.

Step 3

Step four: Stick the foil to the background (you may use some transparent tape to do so).

Step 4

HOW TO CREAT A PICTURE WITH AMAZING BOKEH

Without the use of a speedlight!

  • Place your camera and tripod some distance away from the El Bokeh Wall. The desired part of the subject (or the whole subject) is typically included along with some of the bokeh from the foil.
  • Place the subject a suitable distance away from the El Bokeh Wall. You will need to judge what this suitable distance is on your own, as that will vary depending on your chosen subject, and the camera and lens combination you’re using. While constantly checking your camera’s LCD monitor (it’s just easier this way – remember to switch to Live View), place the subject in a the position that makes the bokeh pops the most.
  • Get your camera to focus on the subject (with the background properly out of focus to obtain good bokeh) and then switch to manual focus.
  • Experiment with your lighting (since you’re not using any fixed lighting). Hold up your flashlight or smartphone and experiment with various angles until you get the best result.
  • Set the two second self-timer on your camera to count down.
  • Keep holding the light source at the angle which yield the best results until the picture is taken.

THAT’S IT!

You should now have a great picture with marvellous bokeh like this:

Photo B  Uddhav Gupta  uddhav98 gmail com

Photo C  Uddhav Gupta  uddhav98 gmail com

Give it a try and please leave your comments below.

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Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits

08 Aug

In these two video tutorials brought to us by ExpoImaging, NYC photographer Erik Valind shows two different tips:

#1 – How to create artificial sun with a speedlight

#2 – Creating soft light during midday harsh light

Gear and things mentioned in the videos:

  • ExpoImaging ROGUEGELS-U Rogue Photographic Design Rogue Gels Universal Lighting Filter Kit
  • Rogue Photographic Design ROGUERELG2 FlashBender 2 Large Reflector, Bounce Flash, Snoot, Gobo (Black/White)
  • Other things available from Rogue Photographic Design

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Intel and Micron create 3D XPoint: a smaller, faster, more secure memory technology

29 Jul

Chip makers Micron and Intel have announced a new form of computer memory that promises faster, more reliable storage than current technologies, in a smaller space and at similar prices. The technology could reduce the distinction between memory and storage within computers and provide a faster, more stable way of storing large Raw and video files. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Create Two of the Same Person in One Photograph Using Photoshop

12 Jul

This is a fun twist on portraiture that can often tell a bit more of a story about your subject, by allowing them to reveal two or more sides to their personality. It’s an old photography trick used in the days of the darkroom, and now with modern technology can be done in minutes with a few simple steps in Photoshop.

First you are going to need two or more photographs of your subject, so find yourself a victim to experiment on, or try a self portrait. The main trick to this technique is to get things set up well in the shooting stage so everything goes smoothly when you go to edit.

Getting Set Up to Shoot

You’ll need to put your camera on a tripod. Your tripod position, lighting setup, your camera and its settings, all need to remain the same throughout the shooting session. Once you’re set up don’t move or twiddle anything, otherwise things can get a bit wobbly when you go to blend your final images.

It is possible to do this with natural light, but you’ll have to work fast before the light changes too much. If you don’t have studio lighting you can try light painting or some of the other DIY lighting tips from my article Creating Effective Studio Lighting with Household Items

Start with a simple set such as two chairs. To make it a bit more interesting, add something like a small table in between with a prop or two; your subject could be sharing a cup of tea or a glass of wine with themselves.

portrait-photography-trick02

Positioning your subject

Once you have set your stage and are happy with how it looks through the viewfinder, bring in your subject to test out the lighting on them for both positions. Then you are ready to roll.

Think about how the different versions of your subject will interact with each other. Will they be in conversation, raising a glass congratulating themselves on a portrait sitting job well done perhaps? In such a case it’s important to get their line of site correct to achieve the illusion of the subject looking at themselves.

portrait-photography-trick03

It is a good idea, when first attempting this, to ensure there is no overlap of the two versions of your subject, such as a stray foot, to save you any extra fiddling about in the editing stage. You can help to keep both versions separate by placing a small marker, such as a tiny bit of tape on the floor in the middle of your setup, so your subject knows where that invisible overlap line is located.

For the shot below I had the female version lean on a rolled up towel to imitate the knee of the male version of herself. This gave a natural lean to her pose and helped create the illusion that she is actually leaning on the male version’s lap.

portrait-photography-trick04

Take as many shots as you and your portrait subject have the time and patience for. The more versions you have, the better chance of finding a perfect match in the editing stage. Try different facial expressions and poses for each version of your subject.

Easy editing

We are going to be working with layers here, but if that’s new to you don’t panic! It really is easier than you might think. Just follow the few steps below and you’ll be pulling a photographic rabbit out of a Photoshop hat in no time.

  • Open your favorite image of each version of your subject in Photoshop.
  • Make sure both images are the same size.
  • Using the Move Tool, click on the thumbnail of the first image in its Layers Palette, drag over the top of the second image and let go.
  • You now have both images on top of each other in the same file, seen as Background and Layer 1 in the Layers Palette (shown below).

portrait-photography-trick05

  • You’ll need to see both versions, so go to the Layers Palette and select the Layer 1 thumbnail.
  • Using the Opacity slider just above it, slide it around until you can see both images, about 50% usually works the best.

If you haven’t moved anything about during shooting the images should line up perfectly. In which case, you’ve done the hardest part already, it’s smooth sailing from here.

If your setup got bumped, you can probably still line things up well enough to work. Just use the Move Tool to slide around top image and try and get the best alignment. It helps to zoom in to check accuracy (you can also use Auto-Align Layers” in the edit menu but it may be fooled by the subject – but give it a try).

portrait-photography-trick06

Now the fun part

  • Select Layer 1 in the Layers Palette.
  • At the bottom of the Palette is a little square with a circle in it, commonly known as the Add Layer Mask button, or as I like to call it, the Where the Magic Happens button.
  • Click on it and a Layer Mask white box will appear next to the image thumbnail.

It’s not sounding very magic so far, but hang in there.

  • The Background and Foreground Colour squares at the bottom of your Tools Pallette will need to be black on the top (foreground color).
  • Select a brush, set to zero hardness and get ready to make magic happen.
  • Set both Layer and Brush Opacity sliders to 100%.
  • Make sure that white Layer Mask thumbnail is still selected.
  • Start brushing and watch as the second version of your model magically appears, tada!

portrait-photography-trick07

Don’t worry if you go too far, and erase something more than you intended, if you do, you can just switch those little black and white boxes in the Tools Pallette with the tiny arrows (or press X on your keyboard) so white is on top, then brush back in to reverse the mistake (black conceals, white reveals).

That’s it! All the tricky stuff done and dusted.

Now you simply flatten the image. File> Flatten Image, and all that is left is to edit as you would any other photograph. For this image it was a crop here, a filter and color adjustment there, and erasing the umbrella light reflection in the window.

portrait-photography-trick08

This technique is something you can really play with, from building sets and getting creative with props, or simply using it to get more of a story from your portrait subject. Either way, it is great fun to try. If you do, please share your results in the comments. Happy experimenting.

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Adding an Off-Camera Flash to Create a Winning Image

07 Jul

Star_gazers

This image, titled “Star Gazers”, won Grand Prizes at the 2015 Shoot the Hills photo competition. Held in the Hocking Hills region near Logan, Ohio, this competition takes place the 3rd weekend every April. 160 photographers from several states participated this year.

I initially came up with the idea for this shot over a year earlier, but my first attempt at the image failed miserably. (see below)

DSC_3387

What mistakes did I make?

If I would have checked the histogram I would have seen that all of the image was extremely under-exposed with all the data pushed up against the left side of the histogram.

If I had checked the histogram I would have noticed that the image was extremely under-exposed with all the data pushed up against the left side of the histogram.

  1. The image was under-exposed, because I failed to check the histogram. In the dark the image looked great on the LCD on the back of the camera!
  2. With the long exposure (30 seconds) there was no way for the subjects in the image to remain still enough to avoid blurring.

The Solutions

  1. The solution for the exposure was simple. First I turned down the brightness of the camera’s LCD screen. Then I used the histogram to determine my exposure.
  2. The length of exposure time was the main problem I had with this first attempt at capturing the image I had planned. It is nearly impossible for a live model to stand still for 30 seconds to prevent blurring. An off-camera flash was added behind the models to create the rim lighting in order to freeze their movement. Adding this flash was the major difference-maker from my earlier attempt of this image.

Other Factors to Consider

Sometimes it takes some trial and error to achieve the results you are looking for in an image. Improvisation may be required when unforeseen issues change shooting conditions. Many factors need to fall together for it to be possible to create an image such as this one. After waiting until 2 a.m. for the clouds to clear, it was finally time to capture the image I had pre-visualized nearly a year earlier.  Because the cloud cover remained near the horizon, it became necessary to change the angle of view to capture the higher, clearer sky. This adjustment also made it necessary to change the focal length from the 18mm I had planned to 50mm. One of the rules of the Shoot the Hills photo competition is that all images must be submitted straight out of the camera, so getting everything right in the camera is a must. Here are some additional factors required to capture such an image:

The Weather

  • Clear starry night – Probably the single most important factor to create this image is a clear starry night.
  • Dark sky – Find a dark sky, away from the lights of the city. There are dark sky maps on the internet.
  • Moonless night (or after the moon has set) – The light from the moon will fade out (overpower) many of the dimmer stars.

The Exposure

Histogram for the final winning. Notice how the histogram stretches back almost into the mid-tones, with a little info clear back into the highlights which is the stars and the rim lighting.

Histogram for the final winning shot. Notice how the histogram stretches back almost into the mid-tones, with a little info clear back into the highlights, which represent the stars and rim lighting.

I wanted to keep the shutter speed at 30 seconds for two reasons. First, that is the longest shutter speed most cameras allow without having to set them to bulb, and manually doing a timed exposure. Secondly, I didn’t want the stars to become extremely blurry. Using the histogram, I determined my exposure with my focal length at 50mm to be;  aperture at f/5 and ISO set to 2000, which I had predetermined was the highest ISO I could use, and still be able to minimize the amount of digital noise. As mentioned earlier, do not rely on the camera’s LED screen to determine exposure. In fact, in the dark the LED screen will look really bright when the image is actually extremely underexposed. To remedy this problem, turn the brightness down on you LED screen, if this setting is available. But always use the histogram to get the best exposure setting. If the histogram is all pushed over to the left side, the image is going to be underexposed.

Remote Triggers

Since I was also one of the subjects in the images, I used one remote to begin the exposure, and another to trigger the flash.

White Balance

After experimenting with several preset white balances I decided to set a custom white balance of 2560 Kelvin, to give the image a cool blue colored sky.

Focusing

Focusing a camera in the dark is one of the most challenging parts of creating a night shot under the stars. Here are some tips to set focus for night images:

  • Pre-focus before it gets dark. This is the easiest way to focus for a night shot, and after the focus is set, turn off the auto-focus so it doesn’t change.
  • Shine a bright flash light on the subject to allow the camera to focus, and as in the method above, after attaining focus, turn off the auto-focus.
  • Use live view to focus manually on a light.
  • Use back button focusing to preset focus

For this image I used back button focusing, and a flash light to set my focus.

The Logistics

The setup for this shot was at the top of a steep hill which came to a point. With the subjects at the very top, the camera was placed on a tripod below, and aimed upward at the subjects and the starry sky in the background. The off-camera flash was placed on a tripod on the other side of the hill and aimed upward at the subjects. The flash and tripod had to be placed low enough on other side of the hill, so that the actual flash did not show in the image.

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Conclusion

Henry Ford once said that “Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently.”  When an image idea fails, take a look at what went wrong and then look for solutions to improve the image, return to the scenario and try it again. From my first unsuccessful attempt to capture star-gazers, the need to freeze the subjects and prevent the blurring, led me to try the off-camera flash technique. The back-lighting and a year’s experience made all the difference between a failed shot and a winner!

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Create Stunning Works Of Art from Your Photography: Our Most Popular Deal Back for 24 Hours

06 Jul

Today as part of our Mid Year Deal week we’ve got two amazing courses for you from the amazing Sebastian Michaels.

Deal 1: 70% Off Photo Artistry: Fine Art Grunge Composition Course

It’s back! But for 24 hours only…

Photoshop Artistry: Fine Art Grunge Composition course — at an incredible 70% off the RRP!

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This was the hottest deal featured on our site in 2014. It flew out the door and smashed records in our dPS Christmas sale.

So due to popular demand, we’ve brought it back for one more day here!

Create Stunning Works Of Art from Your Photography

If you want to go from merely editing your photos to creating intricate photo-art compositions, then this is is the deal for you.

This cutting edge course will awaken your creative genius and reveal the secrets the pros use to create stunning works of art.

By showing you how to create something new and extraordinary with your images, it will completely transform the way you approach your photography and use Photoshop. You’ll find yourself turning out richer, more sophisticated compositions than you ever thought you could create.

With glowing reviews and an unbelievable amount of included value (over 70 training videos, downloadable PDF cheat sheets and over 7GB of bonus pro-designed content), you definitely can’t go wrong with this one.

And at $ 89, it’s a MASSIVE $ 208 off… a price course creator, Sebastian Michaels, has only offered to dPS (you won’t find it anywhere else).

Go ahead and see what all the fuss is about!

Deal 2: Awake: Living the (Photo)-Artistic Life – $ 118 Off the Normal Price

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If you’re like one of the many dPS readers who took advantage of this deal in our Christmas sale, Sebastian’s new course is sure to tickle your fancy, too…

‘Awake: Living the (Photo)-Artistic Life’ is about waking up to all the possibilities and beauty around you — stimulating your imagination, vitality and inspiration, to find your unique artistic voice. Your art will become a more present, more powerful part of your life.

With a full year of training, artist tutorials and pro-designed content, spots in the course are limited. So at $ 118 off the normal price just for today, you’ll have to be quick!

Sign up here.

Grab one or grab them both – these courses from Sebastian are only available at these prices for 24 hours!

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