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Archive for March, 2019

4 Essential Things to Consider When Styling a Photoshoot

09 Mar

The post 4 Essential Things to Consider When Styling a Photoshoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

A successful photoshoot doesn’t just happen by itself. Perhaps there are times when everything lines up and an impromptu photoshoot happens. But that is often the exception. From my experience, much planning goes into a successful photoshoot. Whether you are doing a family, newborn, or portrait shoot, formal, informal, indoor or outdoors, styled or casual shoots, there are common factors that are crucial to its success. Here are some essential things to consider when styling a photoshoot.

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1. Location

Location dictates equipment

Deciding on your location beforehand is necessary as that dictates the equipment you’ll need. If shooting in a studio, you need to think of the lenses you would use for the amount of space available in your studio. If you have a small studio, you may only be able to use a 35mm or a 50mm lens for portraits. A 24-70mm would be ideal for a small space, but you need to consider any distortions if you’re shooting portraits at close range using a short focal length.

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If you are relying on natural light indoors, then you would need to think of the time of day you are shooting and the available ambient and natural light at those time to give you ample light that you need for your shoot. It would also be a good idea to have a reflector handy for both shoot, but most especially for indoor shoots. Their are various types of reflectors, that create different effects.

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Backdrops

Another thing to consider when shooting indoors is your background or backdrop. If it’s in a client’s home, you may need to ask them for photos of an idea of walls, windows, possible backdrops you can use if you haven’t been there before. If shooting in your own home or studio, then you have more control and can prepare the space beforehand. You can go for a light or dark backdrop, fabric or walls, wallpaper or painting, or just the available surfaces in the home. You may need to declutter a bit so unnecessary objects are in the shot.

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Weather – Plan B

If shooting outdoors, you need a plan B in case the weather doesn’t cooperate on the day. A plan B could be a cafe nearby or a sheltered area such as a gazebo. Generally, when shooting outdoors during the day, the opposite problem occurs. There is often too much light. The first thing to decide on is the time of day to shoot. Will it be golden hour? Middle of the day? Early morning? Dusk? Evening? Understand the needs for these different times of the day.

Best times of day to shoot

Early and late and golden hour are great times to shoot because the light comes from an angle. Golden hour gives a nice warm glow to your images but light during early morning shoots are often quite cold. Midday light, when the sun is high up in the sky, gives harsh light. You need to mitigate this by using reflectors, so you don’t get dark shadows under the eyes. They can be a natural reflector like concrete paths, white walls, floors or the usual photography reflectors available.

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Urban or country? Each has a very different vibe. If shooting in a busy city location where you have to walk around and have nowhere to park, you may need to pare down your equipment. If going to the country, then you can fill your car with equipment and props to your heart’s content and make a shoot logistically easier.

If shooting with artificial light either indoors or outdoors, you have more control over the amount of light available for your shoot and natural lighting is not so much a factor. However, this would require more equipment such as light stands, softboxes, electronic flashes, triggers and receivers, batteries, and diffusers.

You can read more about equipment you would need for a home or portable studio here.

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2. Overall colour scheme

Details matter when it comes to the outcome. For an image to be pleasing and successful, it involves more than just lighting. It involves tones and color schemes. When planning your shoot, it may help to think of a theme like vintage, bold, contemporary, simple, maximal or busy. Also think of a seasonal feeling; summer, spring, autumnal, or winter. Considering these things helps you eliminate ideas that won’t be fitting and narrows them down to a few essentials.

You can then decide on the colors. Winter would call for cool white, grey and blue tones and you may decide on a pop of color. Spring may have a combination of pastel colors with dominant greens. Summer may be bursting with saturation and light, blue skies, and warmth. Autumn can have burnt orange, red, purples and verdant greens.

Feeling your shoot while mentally preparing for it helps in streamlining everything to achieve the desired outcome. You could go for a rainbow shoot where you want the colors to pop against a plain white or dark backdrop.

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3. Props

Props are optional, but they are useful. My preference is minimal props, but I would suggest having them as tools during the shoot rather than items to be necessary in the shoot. Let me explain.

If I am photographing young children, I would often ask the parents to bring a bag of favorite toys without the knowledge of their children. During the shoot, I may need to use them to entertain, comfort, use during breaks and even to make them look at the camera. However, only one of those may make it into the shot, usually a soft comfort toy.

For engagement shoots, I’d ask the couple to choose one or two props they want to be in the shot but that these props must mean something to them. We’ve had picnic baskets, bikes, guitars, books and flowers amongst others. Sometimes, couples can’t think of props or don’t want any, and that is fine too. Often I’d say pick up a bunch of flowers just in case. Many couples, especially those who haven’t had a photoshoot yet may feel awkward and holding something like flowers helps.

A piece of outfit or accessory can be used as a prop too. A hat, bag or a special pair of shoes can work. This leads us nicely to the next factor…

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4. Outfits

Even when you have your lighting and location all planned perfectly, sometimes your photoshoot can still get ruined. Okay, ruined may be a bit too harsh but there is still one thing that can make or break your shoot – It’s the outfit.

I give my clients a guide on what to wear before their photoshoot in the hope that they plan their outfits beforehand and, even better, share them with me so we can discuss them. Often they send me options to choose from, and together we agree on one or two final outfits.

I once had a couple whose location was in the most beautiful country setting – it was a totally dreamy scene. Unfortunately, their outfits were not in keeping with the location. Although they were happy with the images and the shots were beautiful, their shoot could potentially have been published in many places but were let down by the outfits.

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Encourage your clients to treat the photoshoot as a special event that they plan and prepare for. If they can afford it, even buy new clothes for the shoot. With regards to matching outfits, like all white shorts and jeans, that’s down to personal preference. Mine is more towards classic complementary colors and patterns than matching or uniform outfits. Discussing this with your client is important. The one big no-no I always tell my clients is to avoid big logos, cartoon characters, numbers or letters, or anything that is trend-based that dates quickly.

I hope the above has helped with styling a photoshoot and what you can prepare in advance to ensure its success. If you have any more ideas, do share them here in the comments below.

The post 4 Essential Things to Consider When Styling a Photoshoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


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DPReview TV: Why waveforms are better than histograms

09 Mar

Most serious photographers are familiar with histograms, but what about waveforms? Chris and Jordan explain why this tool from the video world may just be the best way to judge exposure for still photos too – and why all cameras should have them.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

  • Introduction
  • Histogram limitations
  • How waveforms work
  • Waveform advantages
  • Why don't stills cameras offer waveforms?
  • Waveforms for photo editing
  • Wrap-up

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Understanding Imaging Techniques: the Difference Between Retouching, Manipulating, and Optimizing Images

09 Mar

The post Understanding Imaging Techniques: the Difference Between Retouching, Manipulating, and Optimizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

Understanding Imaging Techniques

Three distinct post-production processes alter the appearance of digital photographs: Retouching, Manipulating, and Optimizing. These terms may sound similar enough to be synonymous at first glance, but they are entirely different operations. Once you understand the difference between these three processes, your image editing will take on new meaning, and your images will deliver powerful results.

Image retouching

Photo retouching is image alteration that intends to correct elements of the photograph that the photographer doesn’t want to appear in the final product. This includes removing clutter from the foreground or background and correcting the color of specific areas or items (clothing, skies, etc.). Retouching operations make full use of cloning and “healing” tools in an attempt to idealize real life. Unfortunately, most retouching becomes necessary because we don’t have (or take) the time to plan out our shots.

Our brain tends to dismiss glare from our eyes, but the camera sees it all. A slight change of elevation and a little forethought can save a lot of editing time.

Planning a shot in advance will alleviate much of these damage control measures but involves a certain amount of pre-viewing; scouting out the area and cleaning up items before the camera captures them. This includes “policing” of the area… cleaning mirrors and windows of fingerprints, dusting off surfaces, and general housekeeping chores. This also includes putting things away (or in place), previewing and arranging the lighting available and supplementing the lighting with flash units and reflectors where required, checking for reflections, etc.

Benjamin Franklin coined the phrase “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” which pretty much sums up the cleanup chores. We also use the phrase “preventative maintenance;” fixing things before they break and need repair.

Admittedly, we don’t often have the luxury of time required to primp and polish a scene before we capture it, and retouching is our only option. However, sometimes all we need to do is evaluate the scene, move around and see the scene from another angle, or wait for the distraction to move out of the scene.

Sometimes a small reposition can lessen the amount of touchup and repair needed.

We can’t always avoid chaos, but we could limit the retouching chore with a little forethought. It takes just a fraction of a second to capture an image, but it can take minutes-to-hours to correct problems captured.

Image manipulation

Manipulation is a bit different, though it occasionally is a compounded chore with retouching. When we manipulate a photo, we truly step out of reality and into fantasyland. When we manipulate an image we override reality and get creative; moving, adding elements to a scene or changing the size and dimension. When we manipulate an image, we become a “creator” rather than simply an observer of a scene. This is quite appropriate when creating “art” from a captured image, and is ideal for illustrations but perhaps shouldn’t be used as a regular post-capture routine.

Photo-illustration is an excellent use of serious manipulation, and can be quite effective for conveying abstract concepts and illustrations.

Earlier in my career, I worked as a photoengraver in a large trade shop in Nashville Tennessee during the early days of digital image manipulation. The shop handled the pre-press chores for many national accounts and international publications. On one occasion in 1979, we were producing a cover for one of these magazines. On the cover was a picture of Egypt’s President Anwar Sadat set against one of the great pyramids. Unfortunately, the pyramid was in a position that interfered with the titles on the magazine’s cover.

While this is not the exact picture used in the magazine, you see the challenge.

The Art Director for the magazine sent instructions for us to shift the pyramid in the picture so that the titles would not interfere with it. Moving that thing was an amazing feat back then. Normal airbrushing would have left obvious evidence of visual trickery, but digital manipulation opened a whole new potential for near-perfect deception. We were amazed at the potential but a bit nervous about the moral implications of using this power.

This venture was accomplished (over a decade before Photoshop) on an editing machine called a SciTex Response, a workstation supported by a very powerful minicomputer. Nobody outside that small building knew that from Nashville, we pushed an Egyptian pyramid across the desert floor until revealed years later. Shortly thereafter, digitally altered images were prohibited from use as evidence in a court of law by the Supreme Court of the United States. Today, this level of manipulation lets you routinely alter reality and play god on a laptop, sitting on a park bench.

Manipulation is powerful stuff and should be used with serious restraint; not so much for legal reasons, but because of diminishing regard for nature and reality. Fantasyland is fun, but reality is where we live. We quite regularly mask skies and replace boring clouds with blue skies and dramatic clouds, and even sunsets – all without hesitation. We can move people around a scene and clone them with ease using popular photo editing software. Reality has become anything but reality. Photo contests prohibit photo manipulation in certain categories, though a skillful operator can cover their digital tracks and fool the general public. However, savvy judges can always tell the difference.

Typical manipulation consisting of a clouded sky to replay lost detail.

Personal recommendation: keep the tricks and photo optics to a minimum. Incorporating someone else’s pre-set formulas and interpretation into your photos usually compromises your personal artistic abilities. Don’t define your style by filtering your image through someone else’s interpretation. Be the artist, not the template. Take your images off the assembly line and deal with them individually.

Image optimization

Photo optimization is an entirely different kind of editing altogether and the one that I use in my professional career. I optimize photos for several City Magazines in South Florida. Preparing images for the printed page isn’t the same as preparing them for inkjet printing. Printing technology uses totally different inks, transfer systems, papers, and production speeds than inkjet printers. Each process requires a different distribution of tones and colors.

Since my early days in photoengraving, I’ve sought to squeeze every pixel for all the clarity and definition it can deliver. The first rule (of my personal discipline) is to perform only global tonal and color adjustments. Rarely should you have to rely on pixel editing to reveal the beauty and dynamic of a scene. Digital photography is all about light. Think of light as your paintbrush and the camera as nothing more than the canvas that your image is painted on. Learn to control light during the capture and your post-production chores will diminish significantly. Dodging, burning and other local editing should be required rarely, if at all.

Both internal contrast and color intensity (saturation) were adjusted to uncover lost detail.

Even the very best digital camera image sensors cannot discern what is “important” information within each image’s tonal range. The camera’s sensors capture an amazing range of light from the lightest and the darkest areas of an image, but all cameras lack the critical element of artistic judgment concerning the internal contrast of that light range.

If you capture your images in RAW format, all that amazing range packed into each 12-bit image (68,000,000,000 shade values between the darkest pixel and the lightest) can be interpreted, articulated, and distributed to unveil the critical detail hiding between the shadows and the highlights. I’ve edited tens of thousands of images over my career, and very few cannot reveal additional detail with just a little investigation. There are five distinct tonal zones (highlight, quarter-tones, middle-tones, three-quarter-tones, and shadows) in every image, and each can be individually pushed, pulled, and contorted to reveal the detail contained therein. While a printed image is always distilled down to 256 tones per color, this editing process lets you, the artist, decide how the image is interpreted.

Shadow (dark) tones quite easily lose their detail and print too dark if not lightened selectively by internal contrast adjustment. The Shadows slider (Camera Raw and Lightroom) was lightened.

The real artistry of editing images is not accomplished by the imagination, but rather by investigation and discernment. No amount of image embellishment can come close to the beauty that is revealed by merely uncovering reality. The reason most photos don’t show the full dynamic of natural light is that the human eye can interpret detail in a scene while the camera can only record the overall dynamic range. Only when we (photographers/editors/image-optimizers) take the time to uncover the power and beauty woven into each image can we come close to producing what our eyes and our brain’s visual cortex experience all day, every day.

Personal Challenge

Strive to extract the existing detail in your images more than you paint over and repair the initial appearance. There is usually amazing detail hiding there just below the surface. After you capture all the potential range with your camera capture (balancing your camera’s exposure between the navigational beacons of your camera’s histogram), you must then go on an expedition to explore everything that your camera has captured. Your job is to discover the detail, distribute the detail, and display that detail to the rest of us.

Happy hunting.

The post Understanding Imaging Techniques: the Difference Between Retouching, Manipulating, and Optimizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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Video: Leica Q2 overview

09 Mar

Though it’s a bit impractical for most photographers, the Leica Q2 is nevertheless a camera that will draw a lot of attention thanks to its good looks and street-shooter-friendly features. Take a quick look at what’s new and drool-worthy on the second-generation Q.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Hipster offended after mistaking himself for hipster in study about lookalike hipsters

09 Mar

Gideon Lichfield, editor-in-Chief of MIT Technology Review, recounted a hilarious story of mistaken identity on Twitter this week. According to Lichfield, the publication received an angry email from a man who accused the site of using his portrait without permission to illustrate an article about hipsters who all look the same. The problem? This unnamed complainant wasn’t the man in the image.

The issue began when MIT Technology Review published an article detailing a study called The Hipster Effect: When Anti-Conformists All Look The Same. The article includes a properly licensed header image depicting a prototypical hipster sourced from Getty Images, but the angry email writer didn’t know that, instead believing it was an image of himself.

The publication’s Creative Director Eric Mongeon contacted Getty Images to verify the photo’s model release, and that’s when the mystery was solved:

Lichfield’s amusing Twitter story seemingly underscored the study’s premise, but sadly it didn’t include an image of the email writer for comparison.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Abstract

09 Mar

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Abstract appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is ABSTRACT!

© Megan Kennedy

Your photos can include anything includes anything that is abstract. It can be motion-blurred, cropped, minimalist, color-based, use nature, objects or anything really! They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

© Peter West Carey

 

Some Inst-piration from some Instagrammers:

 

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A post shared by Rachel Harris-Huffman (@rachharrhuff) on

 

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A post shared by Ali Haider Khan (@alih4213) on

 

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A post shared by Helena Arendt (@helenaarendt) on

 

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A post shared by Anke Drewitz (@jenanke42) on

 

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A post shared by Jeremy Beckman (@jeremybeckman) on

 

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting ABSTRACT

How to Create Abstract Photos with Oil and Water and a Little Dish Soap

4 Refraction Ideas to Use In Your Photography

How to Make Funky Colorful Images of Ordinary Plastic Objects Using a Polarizing Filter

How to Create Abstract Photos with Colored Paper

How to Make Use of Foggy Surfaces for Abstract Photography

How to Create a Kaleidoscope and Make Unique Abstract Images

Getting Started with Abstract Macro Photography

6 Tips on How to Create Abstract Photos

 

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – ABSTRACT

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSabstract to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Abstract appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Leica Q2: What you need to know

08 Mar

Leica Q2: What you need to know

Almost four years since the original Q was launched, Leica has unveiled the Q2, which adds a higher-resolution sensor, revamped interface and improved video capabilities. Those changes come at a higher price, with the Q2 retailing for $ 4995, compared to $ 4250 on the original model.

Here’s everything you need to know about Leica’s new luxury compact.

New 47MP sensor

The original Q offered a variant of the 24MP sensor used in the SL and M Typ 240, but the Q2 debuts a new 47MP sensor which we suspect is similar the one used in the new Panasonic Lumix DC-S1R (and presumably a future Leica SL model). As such, it’s almost certainly not related to similar resolution sensors used in current Nikon and Sony mirrorless cameras.

Expanded ISO range

The new sensor brings an expanded ISO sensitivity range, from ISO 50 up to 50,000. Although we haven’t yet completed our full testing, the base of ISO 50 appears to be a true ‘native’ base ISO, which should offer additional dynamic range in Raw mode compared to ISO 100.

35mm, 50mm and 75mm equivalent crop modes

All those pixels makes cropping a little more practical than it was on the 24MP Q. The Q2 now includes three cropped capture modes instead of two, offering fields of view equivalent to 35mm, 50mm and 75mm. Resolution in the ’35mm’ mode is a more than usable 30MP, dropping to 15MP at ’50mm’ and 6.6MP at ’75mm’.

Redesigned controls

Imagine an original Q crossed with an M10 with a splash of CL thrown in, and that’s the Leica Q2, basically. The lens controls are unchanged – there’s a large, locking focus tab and faux mechanical aperture dial there if you need them, and a neat auto/manual focus ring with a collar-type macro switch, all of which we loved in the Q and still love in the Q2.

Redesigned controls

The big changes are on the rear, where the five rear buttons of the Q have been whittled down to three, with the video button removed entirely. Meanwhile a push button serves as a customizable control at the hub of the main dial on the top of the camera. The touchscreen can also be used as a control surface for positioning the AF point and reviewing photos you’ve taken.

Dust and splash-resistant build

The Q2 is build to withstand moderate use in tough conditions, offering the same IP52 rating as the SL. Technically this should guarantee “limited protection against dust ingress [and] falling drops of water, if the case is disposed up to 15 degrees from vertical”. While this might not sound particularly impressive, consider that most photographic equipment is not rated by its manufacturers at all, and as such, even a modest IP rating should inspire a degree of confidence in wet or dusty conditions.

Despite its new weatherproofing, the Q2 maintains the same shape and size as the original Q, thanks (according to Leica) to a redesign of some internal components.

New 3.68M-dot OLED viewfinder

While the Q2’s electronic viewfinder appears to offer the same resolution as its predecessor (3.68 million dots) the original Q’s finder was of the field-sequential type, which only showed you 1.04 million dots at a time. The Q2’s finder is OLED, which offers a significant step up in terms of sharpness and contrast, compared to the older camera. Blacks are actually black, and you no longer have the rainbow effect associated with field-sequential displays. The finder is also slightly larger, offering 0.76X magnification and improved optics. Leica claims that the eye-sensor has been improved too, and should operate without any perceptible delay.

Automatic image stabilization

The Q2 takes the optical image stabilization system of the original Q and adds an extra layer of control. As well as on and off, stabilization can be set to kick in only at exposure times of longer than 1/60 sec, to save on power drain at faster shutter speeds where camera shake isn’t likely to be a significant concern. How much difference this makes to total battery life in normal shooting situations remains to be seen but it’s a feature that makes sense on a fixed focal length camera.

Improved battery life

Compared to the original Q, the Q2’s battery life has increased by 30% from a stated 270 shots to 350 (CIPA). The Q2 uses the more powerful battery originally found in the SL, and we’d expect that in normal use, you should expect a lot more than 350 shots per charge out of it if you shoot sensibly.

Extended shutter speed range

Easy to miss on a spec sheet, but the Q2 benefits from a redesigned shutter, with mechanical shutter control up to 1/2000 sec – the same as the Q – but now flash sync has been given a boost, from a maximum of 1/500 to 1/2000 seconds in the new camera. The shortest shutter duration using electronic shutter has is now 1/40,000 sec, compared to 1/16,000 in the older model.

SD Cards and 4K video

Thanks partially to the change in batteries, the Q2 now has a separate door for the SD card and also supports the faster UHS-II card format (the original Q would only operate at UHS-I speeds). This will be especially handy for fast burst shooting and the addition of 4K video.

While the form factor of the Q-series might not lend itself naturally to serious videography, the option of high-quality video capture in such a small lightweight camera is pretty appealing. The Q2 offers DCI / UHD 4K at up to 30p, and Full HD at 120p for slow-motion capture. The new ‘true’ base ISO of 50 should reduce the need for neutral density filters when shooting video in bright light, too, as well as offer respectable dynamic range – something we’re currently putting to the test.

The rest

In all, we find the improvements Leica has made to the Q2 are well judged and all the more impressive considering the camera is almost the exact same size as the previous model. The basic formula remains the same, and the Q2 should promise to be just as engaging a tool for discerning photographers as the original.

Is the Q2 the camera for you? For those of you that have owned or used an original Q, what do you make of the new model? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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GimbalGun aims to spread the load for videographers

08 Mar

If you find your biceps bursting through the arm of your shirt at the end of a day’s video shoot you might be glad of something to make your gimbal feel a little less heavy. A project about to be launched on Kickstarter claims to have the answer – GimbalGun.

GimbalGun is a support system that aims to take the weight of a gimbal and associated accessories off the operator’s arm and onto his or her shoulder and upper back. The device consists of a long metal box to which a single-handed gimbal can be mounted and a shoulder strap that helps redistribute the weight of the gimbal and camera. GimbalGun has a number of 1/4in thread holes that allow monitors, microphones, tripods and a host of other accessories to be attached as well, so the whole set-up can be supported on the same system.

The manufacturer claims that GimbalGun lets videographers shoot longer without getting tired, and that it also provides the means to mount monitors and microphones in more effective positions than when they are simply attached to the gimbal handle. Users can choose whether to suspend the GimbleGun from a shoulder using the strap, or to mount it on the shoulder like a bazooka.

The device is made from lightweight aluminium alloy and is hollow, but it is also quite big and must add a significant weight itself to any videographer’s kit. Sample footage is available for inspection on the GimbleGun website…that was shot while the videographer drank a coffee with his spare hand.

The Kickstarter page is in draft mode and the campaign hasn’t started yet, but you can see more information there. It looks as though GimbalGun will cost $ 200, but discounts will be available for early-bird supporters.


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The New Panasonic Lumix S1 and S1R – Could these Full-frame Mirrorless Cameras be Cameras of the Year? [video]

08 Mar

The post The New Panasonic Lumix S1 and S1R – Could these Full-frame Mirrorless Cameras be Cameras of the Year? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video by Art of Photography, he gives us a first look at the testing of the new Panasonic Lumix S1 and S1R full-frame mirrorless cameras.

This is a preproduction look at the camera, so all images are jpegs coming straight out of the camera with no editing done at all. All noise reduction features were switched off in the camera to show how good the noise reduction features of these cameras are too.

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S1: 24mp, S1R: 47mp big still images
If you are a fan of Panasonic Lumix cameras, you’ll feel at home using both these cameras. Dual IS

The video focuses on:

Image quality

outstanding. Color rendition and contrast are great. Worked well with portraits, still life, low light.

Autofocus

Autofocus is an area Panasonic has struggled with over the years, but this is one of their best autofocus systems. Uses contrast detection autofocus. Very usable in most situations. Additional processing layer for Autofocus. This is the technology that drives or defines what they call AI Autofocus. Defines object recognition, animal recognition, face recognition etc. detection. So while the Autofocus is not perfect, the way the technology works means that Panasonic can work on improving Autofocus and update them as Firmware.

Shooting video

Low light performance and Panasonic dual IS image stabilisation

Best image stabilisation used on any camera. Great for low light situations – Low light performance is one of the best features of this camera. It performs beautifully right up to 12800 ISO. Low noise even with the noise reduction features switched off.

Pixel Shifting

Pixel Shifting feature takes 8 images and shifts the sensor around so you end up with a really high resolution image of up to 180mp. In reality, this feature is only limited to still life shooting. If anything moves around in the image it doesn’t work well. So may not work well for landscapes where there is any wind or trees moving. This may be something that Panasonic can work on to fine-tune.

Ergonomics

The cameras are quite large but very easy to use. They are lighter than the Leica SL. When using all day it does become heavy. This can work well when hand-holding for video because the camera doesn’t shake as much. If you are a photographer who wants to travel light, these cameras may not be for you.

It is a very quiet camera, even using the mechanical shutter.

Is this the perfect Panasonic camera?

While this camera is amazing it still has a couple of weak points, mainly the Autofocus system and the Pixel Shift technology.

Also, the fast continuous shooting mode uses 6K film shooting that you can then take stills from. This means you can only use jpegs, which for many photographers is not ideal.

However, overall, both the Panasonic Lumix S1 and S1R are are very exciting cameras.

 

Pixel Shift High Resolution images of the Panasonic S1R at work

In this video by Adorama, see the Pixel Shift technology of these cameras at work.

 

You may also find the following articles interesting:

Gear Review: The Lumix G9 Mirrorless Camera

Canon EOS RP Full-frame Camera – Why Some People Won’t be Buying this Camera

Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You?

The 19 Most Popular Compact System and Mirrorless Cameras with Our Readers

Sony a6300 Mirrorless Camera – Thoughts and Field Test

DSLR vs Mirrorless: Guide to help you decide which is right for you?

The (Almost) Perfect Autofocus of the Sony a7R III: a Hands-On Review

The post The New Panasonic Lumix S1 and S1R – Could these Full-frame Mirrorless Cameras be Cameras of the Year? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Leica Q2 sample gallery

08 Mar

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The Leica Q2 has arrived on the scene and we’ve been busy pointing its 47MP full-frame sensor and 28mm F1.7 Summilux stabilized lens at as many subjects as possible. Initial impressions of image quality suggest excellent detail and ISO performance, with impressive edge-to-edge sharpness from the lens. But we’re less than impressed with default JPEG color, so we included a lot of Raw conversions. Have a look…

See our Leica Q2 sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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