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Archive for March, 2019

When and How Often Should You Upgrade Your Photography Equipment?

13 Mar

The post When and How Often Should You Upgrade Your Photography Equipment? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

We have all heard of the shiny object syndrome have we not? Perhaps you have even fallen victim to it? It’s an easy trap; especially when we are newbies. I have certainly been a victim of it when I first started and was always thinking that my photography would improve if only I had better gear. Right? Wrong! However, your photography will be better if you have the CORRECT gear.

dps-when-to-upgrade-photography-equipment

From my experience of photographing professionally over a decade, I have realized a few things. One of which is that YOU control your gear – your gear does not control you. In other words, you can definitely produce mind-blowing images with the gear you currently have if you know how to use them correctly. Add a hint of creativity into it, and you are taking your images to the next level.

If you are a photographer, the very fundamental things you need to master would be understanding the exposure triangle, lighting (whether that be natural or artificial) and shooting in Manual mode. The first one underpins the last one. Without a solid understanding of the exposure triangle, you may struggle to shoot in Manual mode.

There is nothing wrong with shooting in semi-automatic modes like Aperture Priority or Speed Priority, but you get yourself in tricky scenarios if you rely entirely on shooting on Automatic mode. Your images will be inconsistent, and you will encounter problems in post-processing. Shooting in semi-manual mode still requires an understanding of what those modes do, so why not go the full haul and take the time to understand the exposure triangle.

With that preamble out of the way, I’d like to address the question “When and how often should you upgrade your equipment?” I offer my thoughts below which could greatly differ from other people’s opinions. That is all fine. It’s a free country, and we can exercise free speech.

Things to consider when buying equipment for the first time

dps-when-to-upgrade-photography-equipment

1. Your budget

Sit down and think about how much you can afford without getting into debt. If you are buying gear to learn on, I would not suggest getting into debt to buy your first equipment. It is true that professional, full-frame cameras are better, but do you need them to learn how to shoot? Absolutely, not! Can you only produce good pictures with these top-of-the-range cameras and not with old second-hand models? Of course not.

2. Your subject

Think about what you want to shoot. Your lens choice depends on what subject you want to learn to shoot. For example, if you want to shoot landscapes, don’t buy a zoom lens. If you want to shoot portraits, don’t buy a super-wide-angle lens. If you want to learn both, explore your zoom options. This brings me to the issue of whether to buy the camera body and lens separately or buy a kit.

Brands often offer a kit bundle to save you money on them and have a variety of options to choose from. This isn’t necessarily a bad choice, but it could also be a big waste of money.

A bundle often has a camera, a wide to medium zoom and a longer zoom. These are fine if you want to shoot outdoors in ample light. However, you will quickly realize that if you want to do indoor portraits, these lenses perform below par. These kit lenses are generally the cheaper range with a variable aperture starting from f/3.5 going up to f/5.6 maximum aperture as you go longer on the focal length. These would be inadequate for very dim lighting or indoor ambient light without flash. Ideally, you would need apertures of f/2.8 and wider.

If you opt for buying a camera body separately, then you have more options, both new and second-hand. Just make sure you check the shutter count of the second-hand ones to ensure they have not exhausted the upper range of shutter click guaranteed by the manufacturer before the shutter mechanism starts deteriorating. Most second-hand sellers provide this information; if not, you must ask.

Buying the correct lens for your photography purpose will put you in good stead right off the bat. Why? Because if say you want to photograph portraits, buying the right lens will help you achieve beautiful portraits. Portraits I’m sure you have seen done by other people compared to if you were to shoot them with the wrong lens. You’d forever be wondering why you could not quite achieve the look you want.

3. Accessories

Don’t go all-out buying every accessory on the market. These can be quite tempting but will burn a hole in your pocket and use money up earmarked for your main equipment. You would be better off buying the best main camera and lens your budget can afford and one or two essential accessories than spreading out your budget and making compromises on everything.

If you want to be a landscape photographer, for instance, buying a tripod and a remote shutter is a must otherwise there is little point in even trying. If your interest lies in still life, get a reflector. You don’t always need a tripod for still life photography, but a reflector always comes in handy. If you want to photograph people indoors, I’d say get a flash gun, even if you only want to use natural light. There will come a time when you realize that relying solely on natural light gets you into a pickle eventually and is no longer enough.

However, you mustn’t forget to buy absolute essential accessories – no matter what you are shooting:

a. Memory cards – don’t skimp on these. You want decent ones that you would be able to entrust your images!

b. A padded bag – there’s no point in shelling out good money for equipment and not have the proper protective bag for them!

dps-when-to-upgrade-photography-equipment

When should you upgrade your equipment?

1. Initial investment

This question kind of depends on your initial investment decisions. You see, brands often come out with new camera models every year or more to entice people to keep upgrading. However, while it is true that some of these new models have improved features, nowadays, things are being invented and improved at an alarmingly fast rate. So if you follow the trends, you’ll soon be out of pocket.

My advice would be to buy the best lens you can afford with your money and buy a camera with the remainder of the budget. New cameras keep coming out every year, but lenses stay the same for many many years! They hold their value more compared to camera bodies too. Not all good lenses are expensive. You can buy the 35mm f/1.8 (DX only) and the 50mm f/1.8, and they are excellent lenses for the money.

I have written an in-depth article on lenses which may help you decide when purchasing either as a first-time buy or an upgrade. See them here and here.

2. Upgrading

Upgrading is a good mentality to have but not to do often. Do have a plan for upgrading (which you may have to do eventually), but do not upgrade every time a new model is churned out.

Consider the following when upgrading:

  1. Have you used your camera for the purpose that you have bought it for?
  2. Is it now inadequate for your needs? Are you finding that you need better features now that you have mastered it? For example, you may want a camera with better noise-handling ability, silent mode or a swivel LCD to enable you to take high-up shots, or perhaps one with dual slots?
  3. Are you at a point when you require another camera so you can use your first one as a back-up?
  4. Is your current camera now broken or have broken parts? Then yes, now would be a good time to upgrade! However, if you really love it, you may want to opt for repair.

My first full-frame professional range camera is the Nikon D700. I have bought newer models since, but you know what? I still use the D700 for my own family photos; especially outdoors. I love the colors the sensor produces, and in my opinion, they have never been able to replicate it in the newer brands. The RAW images I get from that camera are the closest to that film-look that I love and the edits required are minimal. However, it’s poor in handling noise, it’s big and brick-heavy and only has one card slot. However, I won’t ever part with it and am happy to use it for personal shots until it breaks.

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Conclusion

I hope these considerations help you in your purchasing and upgrading decisions! Comments and suggestions of more factors to consider are welcome below!

The post When and How Often Should You Upgrade Your Photography Equipment? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.


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RED quietly removes mention of Hydrogen One modules from website

13 Mar

Initial reviews of RED’s Hydrogen One smartphone weren’t too favorable but at the time of the device launch one important component of the Hydrogen One eco-system had not been available yet: additional modules that would attach to the back of the device via pogo pins and offer expanded user experiences and features, such as extra battery life, additional storage space, and most importantly, a camera module with lens mount.

However, it now looks like we might have been waiting for the release of those modules in vain as RED has quietly removed all mention of them from its website. This change was spotted on Reddit by user u/ReipasTietokonePoju and kicked off a forum discussion between owners of the device.

Removed section of the RED website

RED eventually issued an official update saying ‘We are currently in the middle of radically changing the Hydrogen program.’ According to company founder Jim Jannard, ‘A series of obstacles and then new discoveries have given us the opportunity to significantly improve the entire program, not only for Hydrogen but also for RED.

Those changes include a change of leadership – the RED team, lead by Jarred Land, will now be fully in charge of the professional image capture program for Hydrogen – but otherwise the company provides very little detail. More information is promised ‘soon,’ however.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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New extended UK airport no-fly zones will take effect on March 13

13 Mar

Last month, UK officials announced plans to extend the no-fly zone around airports from the current radius of 1km / 0.6mi to 5km / 3mi. The change is in response to the Christmas 2018 Gatwick airport drone incident, during which time more than 140,000 passengers were impacted and more than 1,000 flights were disrupted. The change will go into effect tomorrow, March 13, 2019.

Though the precise threat small drones present to large aircraft remains unknown, a growing body of evidence suggests a mid-air collision between the two could potentially be catastrophic. No-fly zones aim to prevent these close calls, but many drone operators have been caught ignoring regulations.

Gatwick airport no-fly zone via NoFlyDrones.co.uk

In February 2018, a video was published showing a small UAV flying within close proximity of a passenger jet near the McCarran Airport in Las Vegas, for example. From February 2014 to April 2018, the US FAA had received 6,117 reports of drones being operated within an unsafe distance of manned aircraft, and Bloomberg reported in February 2018 that a small drone had struck a helicopter mid-flight, ultimately resulting in a crash.

Increasing the no-fly zone around airports will make it possible to use anti-drone technology to take down unwanted UAVs before they get too close to the facilities and runways. According to a report from BBC in January, the UK’s Heathrow Airport had been testing anti-drone systems before the Gatwick incident, but it’s unclear whether a permanent solution has been installed at either airport.

UK drone owners can view no-fly zones in the nation using the NoFlyDrones.co.uk website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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3rd time isn’t a charm for Huawei, who once again gets busted faking smartphone photos

12 Mar

You would think Huawei would’ve learned its lesson by now, but apparently not. Yet again, the Chinese smartphone manufacturer has been caught suggesting DSLR photos were images taken with its upcoming P30 and P30 Pro smartphones in an advertisement.

In both 2016 and 2018, Huawei was caught trying to do the same thing by passing off a DSLR photos as images captured with its P9 and Nova 3 smartphones, respectively.

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This time, Hauwei shared a collection of advertisements, seen above, on its Weibo social media account to promote the launch of its upcoming P30 Pro smartphone on March 26th with a visual design that suggested the images were captured with the much-anticipated periscope camera system inside the devices.

In a result that’s surprising no one, it turns out the images weren’t actually captured with the smartphone. While it doesn’t take much of a pixel-peeper to tell the images weren’t actually captured with a smartphone, GadgetMatch took a closer look and confirmed the images weren’t just DSLR images, but stock photos that can easily be licensed by anyone.

Using reverse image search, GadgetMatch discovered the volcano image was first shared on Flickr back in 2009 by photographer Tom Pfeiffer and also available for use on Getty Images. Similarly, the duck image was captured on a DSLR by photographer Jake Olson from a photo shoot some years ago.

Not long after it had been called out, Huawei updated the advertisements with a disclaimer saying the ads were meant only as an example, not photos actually captured by the P30 or P30 Pro. Huawei also made the following statement to GSMArena regarding the ‘misunderstanding’ in the P30 Pro preview ads:

We’ve been made aware that there might have been some misunderstanding regarding our recent HUAWEI P30 Series teaser posters. We would like to reiterate that those are, in fact, only teaser posters, and are only intended to hint at the unique new features that will come with the HUAWEI P30 Series. Huawei has acquired the licenses to the original images and the posters are artistic renditions of said features only. We’d like to take this opportunity to thank the media for their interest in our posters. We have much to announce in the coming weeks. Please stay tuned!

Fool us once, shame on you. Fool us three times…we can’t get fooled again. Let’s see how long it’ll take until we’re inevitably running the fourth edition of this article.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow

12 Mar

The post How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.

Editing photos is time-consuming! The rule of thumb that it takes an hour of editing for every hour of shooting is not an exaggeration. You may find that sorting and grading your photos right after a shoot is one of the most tedious parts of your entire workflow – I know I do. Whether you are coming in from a long weekend of shooting wildlife or a busy day shooting a wedding, it is no small task to determine which photos to keep, edit, and store for later from a batch of a 1000 or more. Adobe Lightroom has several tools allowing you to sort, grade, and attribute your work to help you efficiently edit and store a photo. I will walk you through how I use the star-rating system to sort images for my editing workflow and long term archival storage.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

My basic workflow is to import my images, use stars to curate the collection, edit the collection based on their ratings, keyword the collection, and then archive it.

Hot key stars

If you are thinking of stars as those little icons you click under an image to set the rating, let me change your world! Each star rating of 1-5 you can assign directly from your keypad! These “hot keys” are what makes the star rating system so convenient.

Your first assignment:

Open up Lightroom and select an image in your catalog. Now hit the “1” key on your keyboard. Lightroom tells you the image has now been assigned a rating of 1. With values ranging from 1-5, you can assign each value to an image for different things. Below, I’ll provide examples of how you may use these different values.

As a side note, Lightroom has hotkeys for everything. Learning them speeds up your workflow significantly; no matter which set of tools you are using to develop or print.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Lightroom has a star rating system which can be accessed under the thumbnail of each image in Grid View (G hotkey) in your Lightrom Library. Each image can be assigned a star rating of 1-5 by simply pressing the corresponding number on your keyboard. Using hotkeys will help improve your speed and make editing large photo shoots easier and faster!

Sorting files for deletion and advancing images to editing

Whether you are shooting wildlife, weddings, sports, or portraits the most important question you have after your import is: what photos do I keep? When shooting wildlife, you may have dozens of the same subject in slightly different settings or poses. At a wedding, you have many of the dance, but only a select few are going to make the cut to show your client, friends, or family.

You can use the star rating system to assign images for deletion. Why I prefer this over the “rejection” flag system is you can simultaneously start choosing what files to edit and which to delete using the range of values from 1-5 rather than the binary “yes” and “no” of the flag system.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

There’s a lot going on during a wedding. When the day is all said and done you need to import the photos and then choose which you’ll keep, which you’ll develop, and which you’ll delete. Lightroom Stars can help you there.

Using Lightroom Stars to sort your work is easy and efficient.

Here’s a hypothetical situation: you import your photos and determine that a value of “0” (i.e., no rating) as photos to delete. You then decide that images assigned “1” are saved, but are a low priority for editing – perhaps these are b-roll images for applying general presets. You determine images set to “2” are developed immediately and images set to “4” are your best images. This multiple tier system ensures you only have to go through the images once and ideally not more than twice. That’s a huge time saver when dealing with large quantities of images!

I would recommend you avoid using “5” in your workflow. Reserve this for only your very highest quality images (more on that in the “Archiving content/ creating smart collections” section below.)

Once you’ve assigned ratings to all of the images, you can filter the image using the “attributes” filter while in grid view. Filter for all images = 0 stars to delete the images you no longer want and filter all images = 2 to start developing your shots.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Once you’ve chosen which photos to keep (rating 4) you can filter for them using the attributes filter in the Lightroom Library. Simply click “Attribute” and then set the rating to the image set you’d like to view.

Separating image content for keywording

If you are a wildlife photographer, and in particular if you are a bird photographer, it is very typical to change subjects (species) throughout the day. This may occur as much as every other shot. Once you’ve imported those images, it can be daunting to go about keywording your work so you can find them later. The star rating system can help you sort through them quickly!

Assign each star to a species and use your hotkeys to assign the star rating to that species. Once you’ve finished coding the species with stars, filter them using the attributes filter in Grid View and complete your keywording. You can then remove the star rating by highlighting the images and pressing the “0” key. There are many photography scenarios where you can apply this!

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

The diversity of birds creates a diversity of shots. It is critical to keyword your collection if you ever hope to find the images again. I used the star ratings assigned to different species to help sort them and keyword them.

 

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

Once a star rating has been set for a species filter for it to see all images with that rating. In this case, Marbled Godwit were given a temporary rating of 4, keyworded, and then the stars were reset for the image.

Archiving Content / Creating Smart Collections

Undoubtedly, you will create images you are proud of and want to save for future reference, printing, or portfolio work. As I eluded to above, these images should be assigned a value of 5 in your collection. Only a small percentage of your shots should achieve a rating of 5.

You can compile a portfolio of your best shots by establishing a smart collection in Lightroom. The smart collection automatically compiles all images in your catalog with a given attribute.

To create a smart collection right click on “Smart Collections” in Lightroom. Select create a new smart collection and then add the criteria for your collection. You can create a collection set from any attribute you can assign in Lightroom (e.g., stars, flags, keywords, etc.). As you go through the years, your 5-star collection set will continue to grow and document your progress and story.

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

You can create a smart collection to house your best work for printing or display by giving only your best images a rating of 5.

 

Lightroom, Stars, Workflow, Help

To create a smart collection you need to right click on Smart Collections and select create a new smart collection. Assign the attribute to the collection that you’d like it to contain. Simple as that!

That is it! I hope you see the value in using Lightroom’s star rating system in your workflow.

I’ll end by saying these steps are what work for me, but what works for you? Leave your thoughts on workflows in the comments below so we can learn together.

As I always say, “pixels are cheap!”. Be sure to make lots of them and then sort through them using Lightroom Stars.

The post How to Use Lightroom Star Ratings to Improve Your Editing Workflow appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ian Johnson.


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Video: Watch this cannon shoot (and destroy) a Canon at 264mph in a tornado projectile test

12 Mar

A compact camera reached speeds of 264 miles per hour during a test to demonstrate the dangers presented by normal domestic objects flying around during tornado. And no, it didn’t survive.

The test was carried out by storm-footage stock library owner Martin Lisius with the help of a pneumatic cannon housed at the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact Facility in Texas Tech University. The unit usually studies what happens when large lumps of wood caught in storm winds strike building materials, but for this test Lisius wanted to show what happens when smaller more common objects get picked up and thrown around.

A Canon Sureshot 60 Zoom, known as the Autoboy Juno in Japan, was loaded into the cannon and when fired reached speeds of 264mph before meeting a messy end against a concrete wall. According to Lisius, the shape and relative density of the film camera helped it travel much faster than the researchers expected.

The twenty four year-old camera, which could only manage 1fps in its highest drive setting, was filmed at 240fps as it met the wall. Even with that frame rate though it is hard to see exactly what happened on impact. I’m certain the research was useful for something, but even if it wasn’t it makes interesting viewing. To see other videos of things hitting other things at high speed see the National Wind Institute’s Debris Impact web pages.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6 sample gallery

12 Mar

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The Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6 covers a 79-158mm equivalent range when attached to a GFX medium-format camera. It’s the longest zoom option available for the GF system, counting both current lenses and those on the roadmap. Coupled with a GFX camera it’s not exactly the most portable option, but we endeavored to bring it along on some snowy walks and trips to the waterfront anyhow.

See our Fujifilm GF 100-200mm F5.6
sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Ricoh GR III sample gallery updated

12 Mar

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We spent a little more time with the Ricoh GR III out and about in Yokohama, updating our initial sample gallery to a total of over 50 images. Take a look at some additional out-of-camera JPEGs and converted Raw files from the GR line’s much-awaited successor.

See our Ricoh GR III sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Qualcomm’s Snapdragon chipsets can now handle a 192MP image sensor

12 Mar

Mobile cameras are getting more powerful all the time but the technical advancements are not only down to sensor manufacturers and camera module designers. Mobile chipsets also have to support the new imaging components and be able to process the ever increasing amounts of captured image data.

As spotted in the XDA Developers forum, chipset maker Qualcomm has now updated the specs for a range of its Snapdragon chipsets and it looks like the Snapdragon 670, 675, 710, 845 and 855 models now all support a pretty outrageous camera resolution of 192MP.

There are some limitations, however. In order to process such a large image the camera cannot use any multi-frame processing, for example for HDR or noise reduction, or a zero-shutter-lag. The 192MP limit is also only valid for single-camera setups and not for multi-camera devices. Not even a front-camera would be supported.

Given there are currently no mobile image sensor available that come even close to such a high pixel count, these are mostly theoretical considerations of course. Still, it’s good to see Qualcomm is future-proofing its chipsets and making the spec information readily available to developers and other interested parties.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Roger Cicala tests new Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM, confirms ‘insanely good’ MTF results

12 Mar

Roger Cicala is a hard man to impress. His team tests a lot of lenses, but the new Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM is a cut above the rest. Literally, all the rest. Roger’s verdict? ‘This is the sharpest lens we’ve tested. Period’.

We already knew that the FE 135mm F1.8 GM was good, but the MTF results are quite spectacular. In Roger’s words, ‘curves higher than anything I’d ever seen in a normal-range lens’. Compare the Sony’s performance at F1.8 to the Zeiss Batis 135mm F2.8, below. Even if you’re not familiar with MTF curves (in brief – the center of this graph shows resolution at the center of an image, the extreme right and extreme left represent corner sharpness, and higher lines are better), it’s clear that the Sony outperforms the Zeiss in the center and compares well towards the edges, even wide open.

And this isn’t just a standout outlier sample hand-picked by Sony to give the best results – these graphs are created from data averaged from ten copies of the lens.

The 135mm F1.8 was so sharp, in fact, that just for fun Roger ran tests at 100 lp/mm as well as the usual 50 lp/mm, which – again – showed that Sony’s latest lens should perform brilliantly for several generations of even higher-resolution full-frame cameras to come.

Read Roger’s full article on the Lensrentals blog

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