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Archive for December, 2017

2017 Readers’ choice polls: High-end ILC of the year – break the tie!

21 Dec

For the past few weeks we’ve been running six polls, to find out what you, our readers think was the best gear of 2017. Several of the polls are pretty close, but one is still too close to call, with literally only a handful of votes between the two front-runners and the two runners-up.

With only six hours left to vote, we need your help to break the tie! Or we could just give everyone a prize, like school sports day. Your choice.

Click here to view all six polls
(voting ends at midnight PT)


Have your say

$ (document).ready(function() { Poll({“pollId”:”1348290628″,”openForVoting”:true,”mainElementId”:”poll0″,”slot”:null,”isSingleChoicePoll”:false,”minNumberOfChoices”:1,”maxNumberOfChoices”:3}); })

Have your say: Best high-end ILC of 2017
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Fujifilm GFX 50S

Leica M10

Nikon D850

Panasonic Lumix DC-G9

Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5

Sony Alpha a7R III

Sony Alpha a9

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Tips for Killer Macro Backgrounds

20 Dec

You’ve got a perfect macro subject, the perfect angle, and the perfect composition. You’ve checked your focus, and it’s spot on. Your finger hovers over the shutter button. One quick press, and you’ll have the shot. It’s all there before you…right?

Maybe not. There’s one more thing that I’d urge you to check before you shoot – and that is the background.

Macro backgrounds coneflower 1

See, while subject, lighting, and setup matter a great deal in macro photography, the background matters too, far more than people often realize. This is quite understandable; it’s the background. As long as you’ve got the perfect subject, why worry?

But when it comes to macro photography, the background can make or break a shot. You’re often working with a limited compositional palette, of sorts. Lines, colors, shapes; macro photography simplifies things, which is not to say that it makes photography easier. Instead, it magnifies each element, making attention to detail all the more important.

Fortunately, getting good backgrounds is not that difficult. As you start to become conscious of backgrounds and of their importance, your eye will develop. But to jump-start your technique, here are five tips that will dramatically improve your macro images right away.

1. Simplicity is key

I said I’d give you five tips, but this one right here is the big one. This is the starting point that should drive all other background considerations.

When I say simplicity, I’m not necessarily advocating a static, uniform, black or white background (although that can work well). What I mean is that you don’t want clutter. You don’t want a background full of distracting shapes and lines that draw the eye away from the main subject.

For instance, one of my favorite types of backgrounds is just a single color. Nothing fancy, but nothing distracting, either. If you’re shooting in a natural area, maybe you can position yourself so that your subject has some trees behind it. Then you can capture a nice, green wash for your background.

Macro backgrounds pink cosmos 2

The background here is a simple green, which allows the colorful subject to pop.

And if it’s autumn, even better. The golds of the changing leaves make for some beautiful hues.

Macro backgrounds daisy 3

Once I found this flower, I shifted my position to include distant trees, which were exhibiting some lovely fall colors.

The key consideration here is that the background isn’t distracting. Aim for the background to complement the subject without overpowering it. In general, you’ll be safe with a uniform wash (but it’s also possible to go with something a little more complex, as you will see in tips four and five below).

2. Achieve good subject-background separation

When it comes to macro photography, sufficient separation between the subject and the background is crucial. That is, you’re going to want to find a subject that is a significant distance away from whatever sits behind it. When you focus on your subject in the foreground, distant background elements will generally become a pleasing blur, creating the solid wash that I discussed above.

So what exactly is a significant distance? In general, this is going to depend on a couple of things.

Macro backgrounds blackeyedsusan 9

First, camera to subject distance. The closer your camera is to the subject, the closer the background can be to the subject. If your camera is just five inches from a flower, then you’ll probably be okay with a background that’s only 10 inches behind that flower. However, if your camera is five feet from the flower, then you’re going to need perhaps ten feet of distance between the flower and background.

Second, depth of field is a factor. Briefly, depth of field refers to the amount of the subject that is sharp and in focus, which is altered by widening and narrowing the lens’s aperture.

The shallower your depth of field (achieved by using a wide aperture, generally in the f/1.8-5.6 range), the closer your subject can be to the background, while still allowing for a nice uniform wash. But when you’re using a narrow aperture (e.g., f/8-32), you’ll need to be a lot more careful. Without a large distance between your background and subject, you’ll find that whatever exists in your background (leaves, stems, trees, etc.) will remain well defined, and will, therefore, distract from the subject.

Macro backgrounds cosmos 4

This flower was a few feet in front of the background. The large distance, plus the shallow depth of field at f/2.8, allowed for the background leaves, drenched in evening sunlight, to blur in a pleasing manner.

3. Shoot toward a cloudy sky

This one is easy to pull off, and can result in some really pleasing images. All it takes is a willingness to get low to the ground so that you can place the sky behind your subject. If you take the picture as you normally would, exposing for the main subject, then you’ll find that the background will be rendered as a pleasing, uniform white.

Macro backgrounds highkey 5

I got down to a level with this subject so that it was positioned just above the horizon, and I could capture clouds as the background.

4. Shoot into the sun

Often, macro photographers like to position the sun behind them, so that the light is coming over their shoulders and falling on the front of the subject. While this can be a great strategy, sometimes switching things up can result in creative effects.

One of the most interesting techniques is to wait until the sun is low on the horizon. Then position the subject between yourself and the sun, get down low, and expose for the main subject. Don’t aim to get the sun in your shot. Instead, try to capture some of that golden light that sits just beside the sun.

Macro backgrounds sunflower 6

I took this image while lying on my front lawn, as the sun sank below the horizon. These colors are essentially straight-out-of-camera.

It’s critical that you do this in the late evening. Any earlier and the sun will be too bright. You won’t get those rich, golden colors, and it will be tough to expose for the main subject.

I’d also urge you to be careful; do not look at the sun through your camera viewfinder. This will be damaging to your eyes. Instead, capture the image while using your camera’s Live View function.

5. Use the surrounding color

While a uniform wash often works quite well as a background, you may want to give your shots something extra. A little bit of pop. That’s where vibrant colors can come in handy.

For now, I’m not necessarily suggesting that you match colors like clothes, nor am I suggesting you use color theory. There’s no need to be that particular, not when you’re starting out. Instead, just try to look for colorful spots in the background, and compose the shot so that the main subject has a bit of color behind it.

Macro backgrounds fairytale 7

For this image, I angled my camera so that a few yellow flowers in the background contrasted with the reds of the subject.

When you’re out in the field, you may not see an abundance of options, but pause and glance around. Try looking through the viewfinder while shifting your camera angle. It may turn out that certain areas become startlingly beautiful once they’re out of focus.

One of my favorite techniques when shooting flowers is to adjust my composition so that a second bloom is a bit behind the first, while shooting with a shallow depth of field. Rendered as an out-of-focus patch of color, this background bloom complements the main subject.

Macro backgrounds yellow 8

Here I positioned myself so that a second flower, a little behind the first, was rendered nicely out of focus.

In conclusion

Macro photography requires careful attention to your background, but don’t let that hold you back. By achieving good separation between the subject and the background, by shooting toward the sky, the setting sun, or including vibrant colors, and by—above all—concentrating on simplicity, you’ll be well on your way to getting fantastic macro images.

If you have any tips that I didn’t mention here, I’d love to hear them in the comments!

 

The post 5 Tips for Killer Macro Backgrounds by Jaymes Dempsey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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2017 Buying Guide: Best cameras for landscapes

20 Dec

Landscape photography isn’t as simple as just showing up in front of a beautiful view and taking a couple of pictures. Landscape shooters have a unique set of needs and requirements for their gear, and we’ve selected some of our favorites in this buying guide.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Adobe has released the final standalone version of Lightroom

20 Dec

If the release of Lightroom Classic CC and Lightroom CC on October 18th was the beginning of the end for standalone Lightroom, today marks the end of the end. Adobe has released the final standalone Lightroom, version 6.14, adding some bug fixes and camera and lens compatibility, but otherwise using the opportunity to encourage users to jump on the subscription bandwagon.

To their credit, Adobe isn’t hiding this fact. They announced that this final update was coming all the way back in October, and today’s update announcement notes state the facts plainly:

Lightroom 6.14 is the last perpetual, standalone version of Lightroom.

While you may continue to purchase and use Lightroom 6 with a perpetual license, Adobe will no longer provide updates to the software. Consider upgrading to the Creative Cloud Photography plan to get the latest updates in Lightroom Classic CC and the all-new Lightroom CC, and ensure that the software works with raw files from the newest cameras.

As of today, Lightroom 6 becomes an ‘unsupported product.’

Of course, that’s okay if you plan to use it with a camera you currently own and don’t intend to upgrade any time soon. Problems—or, rather, inconveniences—arise with your next camera purchase. That camera won’t be supported by Lightroom 6, and you’ll be forced to use Adobe’s DNG converter before importing your images.

Not to mention the OS compatibility issues that will inevitably arise as Microsoft and Apple continue releasing new operating systems.

If that all sounds like too much of a hassle, and a Creative Cloud subscription is simply out of the question, it might be time to check out some of the popular alternatives that we’ve been testing and writing about recently.

Click here to download the latest (and last) version of Lightroom 6.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Voigtländer Nokton classic 35mm F1.4 for E-Mount ships in February, will cost $750

20 Dec
The Voigtlander Nokton Classic 35mm F1.4 FE at CP+ last February. Photo by Barney Britton

Sony shooters will have a new manual-focus lens to play with soon. After announcing the lens as ‘in-development’ way back in February, Cosina Japan has revealed pricing and availability for the E-Mount Voigtlander Nokton classic 35mm F1.4 lens. According to the translated webpage, the lens is scheduled to ship in February of 2018, at a price of ¥ 85,000, or approximately $ 750 USD.

This, just a couple of weeks after announcing pricing and availability for another E-Mount Nokton that was “in-development” in February: the Nokton 40mm F1.2.

The Nokton classic 35mm F1.4 is an E-mount version of the M-mount Nokton that Voigtländer has been selling for many years, and we actually got to see this lens in person at CP+ last February. Unfortunately, the 35mm was the only lens under glass that day, so we couldn’t get a true ‘hands-on,’ but we expect it to be built to the same high standard as the older M-mount version.

Another photo from our through-the-glass ‘hands on’ at CP+. Photo by Barney Britton

To learn more about this lens, head over to the Cosina website, read the translated Cosina Japan page, or check out our ‘hands-on’ impressions from last February.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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FAA bans drones from flying near 7 nuclear facilities

20 Dec

The Federal Aviation Administration has officially designated seven Department of Energy (DOE) facilities as drone no-fly zones, restricting UAVs from being operated within 122m / 400ft of any of the following sites:

  • Hanford Site, Franklin County, WA
  • Pantex Site, Panhandle, TX
  • Los Alamos National Laboratory, Los Alamos, NM
  • Idaho National Laboratory, Idaho Falls, ID
  • Savannah River National Laboratory, Aiken, SC
  • Y-12 National Security Site, Oak Ridge, TN
  • Oak Ridge National Laboratory, Oak Ridge, TN

All seven sites are nuclear facilities (though not all of them are active), including multiple research facilities. The FAA has established the no-drone designation at the DOE’s request, doing so under its Title 14 authority. The FAA refers to these new bans as UAS National Security restrictions, and they’ll become effective on Friday, December 29. The agency will soon update its B4UFLY app to show the new restricted airspace.

According to the FAA, there will be select instances in which a drone operator could get a permit to fly within one of these restricted regions, though the operator will need to get permission from the FAA and/or the facility itself. The cases in which these permits may be granted weren’t specified. These new restrictions follow similar ones applied to Department of Interior facilities and military bases.

Via: Engadget

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Annie Leibovitz teaches photography in new MasterClass

20 Dec

MasterClass has announced the launch of a new course from master photographer Annie Leibovitz. The course is composed of 14 video lessons from Leibovitz herself, as well as a workbook with things like lesson recaps, resources and assignments. As part of the MasterClass, Leibovitz will offer office hours via video and participate in Q&A with students.

This is the first time Leibovitz has offered an online course, which is priced at $ 90 for just the course itself or under an all-access pass for all MasterClass courses at $ 180/year. Class lessons include topics like “Working With Light,” “Portrait Photography,” “Working With Your Subject,” and “Creating Concepts,” among others.

The MasterClass introductory lesson will introduce students to Leibovitz and her more than 40 years as a photographer. Over the course of her career, Leibovitz has established herself as one of the world’s most iconic photographers, her work having appeared in many notable publications, including Rolling Stone and Vanity. She has received numerous honors throughout her career, including a Library of Congress “Living Legend” designation, an International Center of Photography Lifetime Achievement Award, and more.

More information about the Annie Leibovitz MasterClass is available here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What is a Circular Polarizing Filter (CPL) and How to Use it

20 Dec

The use of lens filters can transform your photograph completely, as it allows you to go beyond the usual and explore something creative with your gear. Among multiple filters, a circular polarizing filter (CPL) is one such creative tool using which you can enhance the final photo that appears on your camera LCD screen.

A circular polarizing filter is a landscape photographer’s best camera accessory as it allows you to capture vividness and contrast in a photo. I have even used it to capture cityscapes and trust me it completely changes the image once you have it mounted on your camera lens. Having said that, let me take you through detailed uses of a CPL filter.

What is a Circular Polarizing Filter and How to Use it

 CPL Filter Enhances the Sky Color

One of the major disappointments while shooting cityscapes is that the color in the sky is not registered in your camera as accurately as it appears to your eyes, right? Even if you are able to match the colors in your photo, you might still find the sky to be dull or hazy.

With the use of a Circular Polarizing filter (CPL) on your lens, you can enhance the colors in the sky as well as the elements in your frame. This is made possible as the CPL filter, when rotated at a particular angle minimizes the haze in the sky and enhances the color by reducing the polarization effect caused by sunlight.

What is a Circular Polarizing Filter and How to Use it - blue sky before and after

As you can see in the image above, the dome was appearing off-white in color and the sky was appearing a bit too bright. After applying the Manfrotto CPL filter on my Canon 24-70 f/2.8 lens, I was able to correctly expose the dome, the sky had a good amount of contrast and the clouds were also clearly visible.

What is a Circular Polarizing Filter and How to Use it

Here is another before and after CPL filter comparison, let me know in the comments section below which one do you like better.

A CPL Filter Cuts Reflections

While taking photos of glass buildings or landscapes with a water body in the frame, it can be really challenging to get rid of the reflections being caused by sunlight. You might have to change your composition or wait for the light to change in order to get a reflection-free image.

Using a CPL filter can allow you to minimize the mirror image being caused by in the reflective element in your frame. All you have to do is simply rotate the filter to the required angle.

What is a Circular Polarizing Filter and How to Use it

Discussing the two images above, you can clearly see how mounting the CPL filter almost completely eliminates the reflection visible in the water body. Isn’t that magical?

What is a Circular Polarizing Filter and How to Use it

Here is another example of how rotating the CPL filter to the desired angle can allow you to minimize the reflections in any water body in your frame.

How to get the maximum polarization effect?

As the science states, the maximum polarization effect takes place at an angle of 90 degrees from the sun that move in a circular band. This means that if the sun is at the top, you would get equally lit sky if you are shooting at an angle of 90 degrees from the sun.

To get the exact frame where you should be positioning your camera to get the maximum benefit of the CPL filter simply make an “L-shape” using your thumb and the index finger. Just point your thumb towards the sun, and your index finger will give you the angle where you would get evenly lit sky and get the maximum benefit of the CPL filter.

Otherwise, you may get unevenly lit sky in your photos which would be hard to correct later in the post-processing stage.

Things to consider while using a CPL Filter

1 – It cuts the light

As you mount the CPL filter on your camera lens, it cuts some amount of light which may vary from 1-2 stops. It means that if you were earlier shooting at 1/1000th, f/16 and ISO 100, after mounting the CPL filter the exposure would decrease by let’s say 2-stops. So in order to let in 2-stops of more light, you will either have to:

  1. Slow down the shutter speed from 1/1000th to 1/250th, or
  2. Open up the aperture from f/16 to f/8, or
  3. Increase the ISO from 100 to 400

So whenever you plan to use a CPL filter, remember that there is going to be a loss of light and you might have to compensate a bit to get the correct exposure.

2 – Avoid using a wide-angle lens

Using a wide-angle lens can sometimes result in uneven sky color or color variation. The CPL filter is not at fault here, it is because wider focal length would cover more of the sky and as we discussed above the polarization effect is maximum at 90 degrees. Now a wide angle lens would cover more area of the sky, thus resulting in color variations.

To get the maximum benefit and the best result using a CPL filter, try and avoid using a lens wider than 24mm.

3 – Do not always use the maximum degree of polarization

What we usually tend to do is use everything at the maximum value and degree possible, like we do with an f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens, right? You should always rotate the CPL filter 360 degrees and check the level of contrast, saturation, and reflection it is boosting or reducing, and then only decide the degree at which you want to use the filter.

Sometimes using the CPL filter at maximum degree might result in color variation as well, especially while using it on a wide-angle lens.

Conclusion

If you want to learn more about polarizing filters and see examples here are some other dPS articles on the topic:

  • When NOT to use a Polarizing Filter
  • Circular Polarizers Versus Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
  • How to Make Funky Colorful Images of Ordinary Plastic Objects Using a Polarizing Filter
  • Why You MUST Have a Polarizer
  • The Ultimate Guide to Nature and Outdoor Photography

The post What is a Circular Polarizing Filter (CPL) and How to Use it by Kunal Malhotra appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Create Powerful Travel Photos that Will WOW Your Friends [2 Days Only]

19 Dec

Have you ever said ‘This is nothing like what I saw!’ when looking at the images you took of a trip?

Travel Photographer of the Year (and dPS Book Author) Mitchell Kanashkevich has created an amazing “Behind the Scenes” photography course that’s a blueprint for creating power photographs. 

It’s all about helping you to capture the magic of the experiences you have when travelling and come home with images that will wow your family and friends.

For the next 48 hours, as an exclusive offer to dPS readers, he’s offering his course at 70% off the normal price. 

That means for the next 2 days you can get his beautifully crafted travel photography course for $ 39.95 instead of $ 129.97.

In this online Course you’ll Learn: 

  • How to search for that amazing photo (includes the first obvious question that’s rarely asked)
  • The truth about compositional rules and more organic and fluid ways of looking at composition 
  • Why being a photo sniper makes no sense in the digital age
  • The crucial factors that make the difference between a great photo and one that falls short
  • Can a great image be the result of an accident? (Confession time, but it’s not what you might think)
  • The practical approach to capturing the moment
  • … and much more

Mitchell provides an over the shoulder editing experience as well as providing RAW files, so you can practice the same techniques on them in post-processing.

Check out the full course outline here.

… you only have 48 hours (and counting) though, so be quick.

Bonus Offer from our Partners

Anyone who picks up any of the great deals this week also unlocks some great bonus deals from our partners.

For example if you pick up Mitchell’s course today you’ll get access to KelbyOne annual membership at 20% off the normal price. Access our exclusive Partner Bonus Offers here.

Christmas Deals:
Bonus Offers

Bonus Offers

Brought to you by

ON1
Athentec Perfectly Clear
KelbyOne
New York Institute of Photography

The post How to Create Powerful Travel Photos that Will WOW Your Friends [2 Days Only] by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to do Powerful RAW Conversions with Luminar 2018

19 Dec

One of the most powerful new filters in Luminar 2018 is the RAW Develop Filter. RAW files, straight out of the camera, appear flat and boring, but with capable RAW conversion software like Luminar 2018, you can transform the RAW data into a detailed and vibrant photograph.

Luminar 2018’s RAW handling has seen significant improvements over previous versions. It performs faster and the tools in the RAW Develop Filter reveal additional details in the highlights and shadows, display more accurate color, and reduce noise.

Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Filter

LUMINAR 2018’S RAW DEVELOP FILTER

The RAW Develop filter is organized into three categories:

  • Adjust – Essential Color and Tone Adjustments.
  • Lens – Remove Image flaws caused by the lens.
  • Transform – Correct perspective issues caused by the camera’s physical position.

These three tool sets form a powerful triad for correcting many of the problems encountered with unprocessed RAW image files.

QUICK TIP: JPG Shooters get access to the same tools in the Develop Filter.

Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Filter Tabs

ADJUST

The Adjust tab inside the RAW Develop filter contains fundamental color and tone adjustments. Settings include:

  • White Balance – Choose from white balance presets that are similar to the settings in your camera.
  • Temperature – Warm up (yellow) or cool down (blue) the color temperature of the photo.
  • Tint – Correct color casts by adding magenta or green.
  • Exposure – Adjust the overall luminance of the photograph.
  • Contrast – Adjust the overall contrast of the photo.
  • Highlights – Adjust the brightness of the brightest areas of the photo.
  • Shadows – Adjust the brightness of the darkest areas of the photo.
  • Whites – Adjust the white point of the histogram and white tones in the photo.
  • Black – Adjust the black point of the histogram and black tones in the photo.
  • Clarity – Adjust mid-tone contrast.

LENS

The Lens tab in the RAW Develop filter allows you to fix flaws caused by the lens. Settings include:

  • Distortion – Correct barrel or pincushion distortion.
  • Chromatic Aberration Fix – Correct for color fringing along high contrast areas.
  • Devignette – Remove darkened edges caused by lens vignetting.

TRANSFORM

The Transform tab in the RAW Develop filter allows you to compensate for perspective problems caused by the position of the lens at the time of capture. Settings include:

  • Vertical – Tilt the image forward or backward on the X-axis (helpful with key-stoning).
  • Horizontal – Tilt the image right or left on the Y-axis (helpful when shooting at an angle from the subject).
  • Rotate – Useful for straightening a photo.
  • Aspect – Expand the height or width while contracting the opposite direction.
  • Scale – Use to hide the edge gaps after transforming a photo.
  • X Offset – Shifts the image left or right.
  • Y Offset – Shifts the image up or down.

HOW TO PROCESS RAW IMAGES IN LUMINAR 2018

Open your photograph in Luminar, navigate to the Add Filter button and click on RAW Develop in the ESSENTIAL category. The interface is intuitively designed, suggesting the order in which to make your adjustments:

  • Step 1 – Adjust
  • Step 2 – Lens
  • Step 3 – Transform

EXAMPLE 1

Cappuccino Before Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

RAW/Unprocessed (© Angela Andrieux)

Straight out of the camera, the photo above was somewhat flat and slightly underexposed.

Cappuccino After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop: Adjust + Lens (© Angela Andrieux)

In the Adjust tab of the RAW Develop filter, small adjustments to the Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, Blacks, and Clarity make subtle, but noticeable, improvements to the photograph.

Cappuccino Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Adjust

In the Lens tab of the RAW Develop filter, a small adjustment was made to remove the lens vignette from the corners.

Cappuccino Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Lens

EXAMPLE 2

Balboa Park Corridor Before Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

RAW/Unprocessed (© Angela Andrieux)

The photo above, in its unprocessed state, has blown out highlights, an unpleasant pink color cast, barrel distortion, and a slightly awkward perspective.

Balboa Park Corridor After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop: Adjust + Lens + Transform (© Angela Andrieux)

With the help of the Adjust panel in the RAW Develop Filter, the color cast was removed, the highlights were toned down with some detail recovered, and architectural details were enhanced.

The Lens panel in the RAW Develop filter fixed a slight lens distortion and removed chromatic aberrations.

This photograph had significant chromatic aberrations in the high contrast areas. Notice the patches of sunlight in the “Before” image below – each sunlit spot has a greenish fringe around the top and a magenta fringe at the bottom. The Chromatic Aberration Fix sliders did a great job of minimizing the unwanted color fringe.

QUICK TIP: Zoom in to 200-300% to check for chromatic aberrations in high contrast areas.

Balboa Park Corridor Before Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Lens Correction

Before Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Lens Correction (zoomed to 200%) (© Angela Andrieux)

Balboa Park Corridor After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Lens Correction

After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Lens Correction (zoomed to 200%) (© Angela Andrieux)

Balboa Park Corridor Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Lens

The Transform panel in the RAW Develop filter corrected for a slight upward tilt of the camera when the photo was captured and straightened the vertical lines.

Balboa Park Corridor Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Transform

EXAMPLE 3

Avila Beach Pier Before Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

RAW/Unprocessed (© Angela Andrieux)

The unprocessed RAW photo above has a color cast, is underexposed, lacks detail and contrast, and has both lens distortion and perspective issues caused by a wide-angle lens. The tools in Luminar 2018’s RAW Develop filter corrected each of these issues.

Avila Beach Pier After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop

After Luminar 2018 RAW Develop: Adjust + Lens + Transform (© Angela Andrieux)

The Adjust tab of the RAW Develop filter corrected the color cast and white balance issues, increased the exposure, added contrast and brought out detail in the shadows under the pier and movement in the water.

Avila Beach Pier Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Adjust

The Lens tab of the RAW Develop filter made easy work of correcting the substantial lens vignetting, removing some barrel distortion, and cleaning up the chromatic aberrations around the pier pilings (high contrast areas).

Avila Beach Pier Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Lens

The Transform tab of the RAW Develop filter straightened the horizon and the legs of the pier, correcting for both the position of the camera and the distorting effect of a wide-angle lens.

Avila Beach Pier Luminar 2018 RAW Develop Settings Transform

Conclusion

Each example above shows the power of the RAW Develop Filter in Luminar 2018. A RAW image file contains an abundance of data, but it takes a skilled photographer and a high-quality RAW conversion tool like Luminar 2018, to turn those files into beautiful photographs.

LUMINAR 2018 HOLIDAY SPECIAL OFFER

Ready to transform your RAW files into amazing photos? Visit Luminar 2018 until December 31 to take advantage of the holiday offer!

Get Luminar with an awesome pack of bonuses, plus get an extra $ 10 OFF with the coupon code: DIGITALPHOTOGRAPHYSCHOOL. 

Disclaimer: Macphun, soon to by Skylum, is a paid partner of dPS.

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