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Archive for December, 2017

Rare Leica KE-7A military rangefinder camera for sale on eBay

22 Dec

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eBay seller M&K Kamera has something for the vintage Leica lovers out there – a rare KE-7A with Leitz Elcan 50mm F2 lens, all in working condition. The KE-7A is a military version of the M4 that was produced in limited numbers in the 1970s.

The seller, asking $ 24,898.85 for the camera and its lens, says that both are in excellent condition and that the shutter is still in working order. Given the camera’s heritage and who it was made for, we’d expect it to keep on clicking for a long time to come. You can check out the listing on eBay if you’ve got $ 25 grand burning a hole in your pocket.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

22 Dec

Still life is a particular style of photography that slowly lured me into its clutches. The gateway drug was, of course, food photography, and before I knew it, my weekends were spent combing secondhand shops for props and buying up linen in all different shades.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

The popularity of Instagram has given rise to images of every different kind of food, drink, dessert, cake, and cocktail. You name it, someone is shooting it, adding a filter and posting online before they even taste it. Except for the one thing it really shows, is how hard it is to compose and take a good still life image, especially with a cell phone. There are a lot of really awful shots out there. Someone even made a hilarious video about the effort needed to get a good shot.

Of all of the techniques I have learned in my photography journey, none has taught me as much as doing still life work.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

My first venture into still life – an Easter challenge that needed your hands in the image. This was before I had a wireless remote.

 #1 – Slow Down, Breathe and Take Your Time

You need three things for a good still life shot – light, good composition and a subject. Pretty much the same as for any photographic image really. But one of the best things about still life is you can take as much time as you like. Usually shot inside with some control over the conditions and with a static subject, this gives you the freedom to be really present and experiment.

As seen in the video link above, the composition is a key element. Do you shoot the subject isolated? Will props help you tell more of a story? Is there a particular mood you are going for? How can you achieve that?

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

I bought these gerberas and shot them every day for a week until they were past their best. Each flower had its own distinct shape and character that needed time to bring out its best

What angle is most effective? Close-up or include more environment? Will flat lay (overhead) or side on be best?

Because you have more control over the conditions you can allow a lot of time and shoot the same subject in many different ways in one shoot. You may come out with one great shot or several good ones. It will certainly teach you a lot about how difficult it is to get a good shot.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

My studio is my spare bedroom, one window, and a fold away craft table. Of course, a cat getting in the way!

2 – Composition is Key

Being a nature and landscape photographer originally, I am used to shooting things on a big scale. Lots of pretty mountains, lakes or sea, cloud-filled skies, and so on. A handy foreground element like a rock or driftwood or tussock is included for scale and to ground the image.

So when I tried to shoot much smaller things up close it was a bit of a shock to find how difficult it was to compose those images well.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

One black background, one silver spoon, and some raspberries.

It is interesting to learn how a subtle difference in angle can affect the outcome of the image. How close or far away your camera is can completely change the balance of the subject within the frame. How scale becomes really important and a tool to be leveraged for the most effective images.

I spent hours taking so many shots, discarding nearly all of them over and over again until I figured out my problem. Complexity. I made the rookie mistake of trying to include too many elements, which threw off the balance of the composition. It was crowded and messy and the subject was overpowered by all the extra stuff I was shoving in the frame.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

A black background, a silver spoon, and some raspberries. Taken at a different angle, closer up, more intimate and inviting. Subtle differences.

This is where lesson one really started to make sense. By taking the time to slow down, breathe and see my subject, see the possibilities, feel the story it was trying to tell me, I shot a lot less, but my keeper rate vastly improved.

The trick was keeping it simple and strong.

3 –  See the Possibilities

This step naturally emerges after steps one and two. Once you take time to be in the moment with your subject, position it within the lighting you have, turn it this way and that, then it will show you its best side.

If you give yourself and your subject time to get to know each other, then its secrets will be revealed. It might be an onion, or it could even be a portrait, the same rule applies. If you take the time to get to know your subject, you begin to see different possibilities. Perhaps this background over here is less cluttered, maybe this plate enhances the natural color better, that rustic board gives a great farmhouse appeal.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

Be the garlic clove! Feel the garlic clove! Hear its story.

I know, it sounds a bit zen and probably a bit corny, but it doesn’t make it any less true. Yes, you can take two seconds to position a shiny red apple and shoot it and have a perfectly acceptable image.

But what else might you end up with if you took 20 minutes, positioning the apple at different angles, on different surfaces? Maybe you cut it open or take a big bite out of it? Pose it with a glass of cider? Maybe you have a handful that looks great arranged in a decorative bowl?

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

The focus of this shot is the funny squiggle of butter on the bagel, but the story is Sunday Morning Brunch. Yes, it was delicious too!

Unless you give yourself time to relax and let the possibilities make themselves known to you, rather than focussing on one outcome, taking that shot and moving on, you will miss out on lots of opportunities. Plus you limit your chances to learn and grow as well.

I failed consistently when starting out with still life photography and it was really frustrating, but it made me work even harder. Once I did get it, the quality of my work improved faster than expected, which was a nice bonus.

4 –  Go Abstract

It is easier to shoot something whole and give it obvious context so that the viewer doesn’t have to think about what they are seeing.

But how much more intriguing would your work become if the viewer did have to take some time to think about what they were seeing? Where it teased at the edge of their consciousness that they should know what the object is but couldn’t quite figure it out? What if your image stuck with them and niggled away in the back of their mind? Where they actually remember it out of the many hundreds of images seen that day scrolling past on their phone?

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

A metal bench in the city but taken side on and obvious context removed with the focus on the lines and the circles instead.

Don’t be afraid to go abstract. To shoot something in a way that hides its original shape, form, or purpose. Be as obscure as you like so long as it’s interesting and arresting. Obscurity for the sake of it may put people off rather than engaging them.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

A piece of glacier iceberg taken up close from a boat to capture the intense blue color and the texture of the bubbles froze within the ice.

Again taking the time to look at your subject, seeing its possibilities and angles, and being creative all apply here. This tip you can easily take out into the world. There are many small intricate elements adorning the world if you take time to see them, interesting shapes revealed when you hide the obvious context. The devil is in the details, have fun finding them.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

A wonderful art deco stairwell.

5 – Props

Props are an essential part of still life photography. They set the scene, the color tone, the mood and the feel of the image you are creating. Learning to prop and style a shot well was the hardest thing for me about still life. It’s difficult to do well without enough options to work with.

This doesn’t mean you need hundreds of dishes and bowls and towels and fabric and cutlery (though it’s easy to end up with them). But a few carefully chosen options that give you flexibility are a good choice.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

Most of my still life prop collection. Enough variety to be useful and flexible.

This is not the only style of photography that benefits from props: portraits, engagement, wedding, children, pets, and family photography all benefit from the use of props. Anytime you have people in your image, having something for them to interact with can help engage them better.

What about the color and style of clothing they are wearing? Hair color or style? Makeup? Shoes? How much fun can be had just with a brightly colored umbrella?

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

A model dressed as Red Riding Hood, wearing a bright red velvet hooded cloak and faux medieval outfit. Shot at an old estate using a broken wooden gate as a prop.

These are all elements that can enhance or cause distractions in your image. What is the story you are telling? What mood are you trying to evoke? Therefore what style or color clothing is going to work best? This is something to think about and discuss with any clients in advance.

Conclusion

Before I started shooting still life photography I used to be in too much of a hurry. I would settle for the obvious shot and leave frustrated because it was boring, predictable and not different enough. Now I take time to prepare properly and give myself plenty of time to shoot. Looking for creative options and being prepared to experiment is fun and exciting.

Now I shoot a lot less, but the quality of my work has improved and I know when I have achieved a keeper shot. My ability to compose and style an image has improved. Including other elements to tell a story has added depth and nuance to my images that was previously lacking.

5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography

The good thing is that these benefits apply to almost any form of photography, some more than others, obviously. Do you just want a quick snap or do you want to engage your viewer fully? What is the story you are trying to tell? What emotion do you want to share? How can you connect with the viewer and make your image stand out from the Instagram or Facebook crowd? What sets your work apart from the millions of images posted online every day?

It does actually matter how much work and thought you put into crafting your image. Like any new skill, it will take time to learn. I challenge you to give it a go for a few months and then compare your new work to your older stuff and see the difference.

The post 5 Lessons I Learned by Doing Still Life Photography by Stacey Hill appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Imatag protects your images with invisible watermarks

22 Dec
With advanced technologies such as Google’s AI capable of removing watermarks from images, and intelligent upscaling technologies like EnhanceNet, including visible watermarks on your images and uploading them at low resolution are no longer necessarily sufficient safeguards against your valuable images being stolen.
Invisible watermarking could be an efficient answer to these high-tech pirating methods. Imatag is a new service that adds an invisible and indelible watermark to your images, all without any degrading effect on image quality. This allows agencies and photographers to track their work and prove ownership when images are found to be illegally used on the web or in print.
On the Imatag website an online demo allows you to upload your own image, inspect the visual quality of the watermarked image and assess the robustness of the watermark. You can crop, scale and compress the original image to see see at what point the Imatag algorithm loses its ability to detect the watermark.
Another way of testing the system is by registering for a free account which allows you to upload 1GB worth of images. Uploaded images will be watermarked and hosted on the website but not be publicly available unless you make them visible. You can then download a watermarked image, edit it in your preferred image editing software and re-upload the modified image to check if the watermark can still be detected.
During a brief test with a couple of images we found that the modifications required to make the watermark undetectable were so strong that they would severely limit the usability of the resulting image. If you think Imatag could be a useful tool for your photography business but 1GB of storage is not sufficient for your purposes, 10 Euros per months subscription fee buy you 100GB. Special packages for agencies are available as well. More information is available on the Imatag website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

22 Dec

Incorporating translucent elements into your compositions can add an interesting dynamic of luminosity to your photographs. Especially if you can backlight them.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Water spray, smoke, steam, and things such as flags, flowers, and fabric when backlit can take on an almost surreal quality because of the way the light refracts as it passes through these types of semi-transparent elements. In this article, I want to share with you some ideas and examples of how to make the most of backlighting translucent objects.

Front light versus backlight

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

If you light a translucent element from the front it will look pretty normal as the light will reflect naturally. Lighting translucency from behind means the light is refracted, (bent,) and scattered before your camera’s sensor records it.

As you can see from the two example photos of the mad scientist with the red liquid in the flask. Notice how the color of the liquid appears very different in the two photos. See how dark it is above, compared to the bright red color in the image below where it has backlighting.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Any colored liquid in a glass, or even any colored glass containing no liquid, will take on a dramatically different quality when it’s backlit. The colors will appear lighter than if they are lit from the front.

Position yourself to create backlight

Water spray, steam and smoke all provide you with great opportunities to produce creative photos. Backlighting and photographing any of these elements will return very different results than if you position yourself so the light is behind you and the camera.

As the light passes through these elements, (or anything translucent,) the rays are bent and the light is diffused before your camera records it. Backlit semitransparent things tend to glow because of this.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

In the image above, I found a good location where the sun was in front of me to photograph during the Song Khran festival in Chaing Mai, Thailand, (which is one huge water fight). This lit up the water spray as buckets were thrown and hoses sprayed on revelers.

Seeing the monk sweeping leaves and burning them in the temple grounds (below) I carefully positioned myself to photograph the sun coming through from behind the smoke.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Good subjects for backlighting

Flags and flowers are two of my other favorite translucent things to photograph. If you can find an angle where the sun is coming from behind a flag or row of flags the resulting photos can be far more colorful and interesting than if the flag is front-lit.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Photographing flowers where you have the opportunity to light them from behind, or even part of them from behind, (as in this image of the purple orchids,) can really make them pop. However, if you are wanting to get clear and realistic correct color of flowers you are photographing it is probably better to light them from the front.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Exposure notes

When you are photographing any backlit element take care to expose well. Don’t be too concerned about getting a “correct” exposure as often slightly overexposing will enhance the effect. Expose to create a feeling or mood rather than to achieve a technically precise result.

Your camera’s exposure meters measure reflected light. When you photograph refracted light passing through a translucent element your camera may not give you an acceptable result if you are using any of the automatic modes. Being in control of your exposure manually will allow you to experiment and set it to give you the result that you think looks best.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect - colorful drinks

The background matters

If you are able to include a dark background in this style of photograph this can often enhance your pictures as well. The glow of a backlit semitransparent element can really stand out from a dark background where the light is three or more stops lower.

This photo of a Lahu man smoking against the dark background of my outdoor studio is a good example of this.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Processing

Taking a little more time to post-process photos you have made using this technique is advisable. Because of the unusual nature of the lighting and the subject your camera may not always record the photo exactly how you want it. Manipulating the contrast levels, blacks, highlights and using the dehaze feature will allow you to enhance your photos of translucent backlit subjects.

How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect

Please share your photos in the comments below of smoke, spray, steam or any other translucent elements with backlighting that you’ve enjoyed making.

The post How to Backlight Translucent Objects for Dramatic Effect by Kevin Landwer-Johan appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Idaho gets the first International Dark-Sky Reserve in the United States

21 Dec

The United States has established its very first International Dark-Sky Reserve—one of 12 found around the globe, and now third largest in the world. The designation was granted to the Central Idaho Dark-Sky Reserve by the International Dark-Sky Association (IDA), which says the region offers 3600km² / 1400mi² of “exceptional or distinguished quality of night sky, view of the stars and nocturnal environment.”

The Central Idaho Dark-Sky Reserve IDA designation is a milestone for American conservation, not only protecting wildlife in the region from the negative effects of artificial light, but also giving visitors from around the world another place to view the pure night sky.

The US reserve and its international designation is the by-product of about 20 years of policy and hard work by Idaho residents, businesses, and officials, according to the IDA. The collective worked to reduce artificial light in central Idaho and agreed to manage artificial light in the region henceforth.

The boundaries of the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve. Image from Idaho’s IDA application.

To get the special designation, Central Idaho land managers formed partnerships with IDA, committing to help preserve the quality of the pure, unadulterated nighttime environment. Ketchum, Idaho Mayor Nina Jonas talked about that, saying in a statement to the IDA:

This is the culmination of a lot of work, important policy decisions and commitment by so many to manage our light pollution. We’re pleased what this says about the commitment our communities have shown to protecting our environment and spectacular window to the universe.

Central Idaho didn’t only win an International Dark-Sky Reserve designation, though. IDA says it has granted this reserve its Gold Tier rating, meaning that the reserve offers one of the darkest night skies among all Dark-Sky Reserves. Information on the Central Idaho Dark-Sky Reserve, including a clear sky chart and map, are available here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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2017 in review: a look back at February

21 Dec
Nikon announced the demise of its DL compacts on the eve of Valentine’s Day, because love is pain.

We learned a lot of fun facts in February: people don’t really like looking at selfies, it’s possible to make a camera out of drinking straws, and Google’s AI-powered image detail enhancement technology is getting creepy good.

February is also when we tend to see winners revealed from year-end photo competitions. True to form, we were not disappointed by the top images in SkyPixel’s aerial photo competition and the 2017 Underwater Photographer of the year. But one photo will probably be remembered before all others – the photo of a slain Russian ambassador was announced as the winner of the 60th World Press Photo award.

Their impressive spec sheets got our hearts all a-flutter, but thanks to unexpectedly high production costs, they were never to be

In gear news, Nikon fans woke up to the equivalent of a break-up text the day before Valentine’s Day – the company was ditching its previously-announced-but-never-realized DL compact cameras. The DLs were meant to be a series of enticing-looking 1″ sensor compacts. Their impressive spec sheets got our hearts all a-flutter, but thanks to unexpectedly high production costs, they were never to be.

It wasn’t all bad news though – CP+ would cheer us all up later in the month with announcements of lovely new lenses like the Sigma 14mm F1.8 Art. It was also the first opportunity for us to do some shooting with the Fujifilm GFX 50S, which was announced at Photokina in late 2016.

See all February content


2016 Challenge of Challenges winners announced

In February, we announced the winner of our annual Challenge of Challenges competition. DPR member cand1d’s image of a glowing sunset in Bagan, Myanmar took top honors in the 2016 Challenge of Challenges competition. The photo is one of almost 1000 challenge-winning entries from the year, which we whittled down to a more manageable shortlist of 25 before DPReview readers voted on a final winner.

See the 2016 Challenge of Challenges Winners

Sigma 14mm F1.8 DG HSM Art samples

The Sigma 14mm F1.8 DG HSM Art made its debut at CP+, and it got the low light shooters on our staff all excited. We jumped all over the chance to take a pre-production version of the lens out for a spin in Yokohama during the show, and later updated our gallery with many more samples from a production-ready unit.

See our Sigma 14mm F1.8 sample gallery

Things we found at CP+ 2017 which had been cut in half

It’s not a photo tradeshow until you’ve seen a lot of things cut in half, and CP+ 2017 was no exception. Take a look at what’s going on inside of some very nice gear.

See all of the things we found at CP+ which had been cut in half

CP+ 2017: Full show coverage

DPReview was at the CP+ show in February, over in Yokohama Japan. As usual, it was a great show for new gear, weird sights, and plenty of hot vending machine coffee.

Read our full CP+ coverage

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Rokinon AF 35mm F1.4 FE: sample gallery and impressions

21 Dec

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The Rokinon/Samyang AF 35mm F1.4 FE ($ 800) is a lens that delivers a lot of speed at budget price, and is significantly less expensive than Sony’s similar lens, the Distagon T* FE 35mm F1.4 ZA, which retails for $ 1499. At that budget price, the Rokinon comes with a few compromises – but not as many as you might think.

Side-by-side, the Rokinon and Sony lenses are almost exactly the same size, and of similar cosmetic design. Whether or not this is intentional, it makes the lens feel somewhat Sony-esque. It has a 67mm filter ring, compared to 72mm on the Sony, and is just slightly heavier (645g vs. 630g). Subjectively speaking, it feels very solid in your hand.

Optical performance exceeded my expectations for a lens at this price point. It’s surprisingly sharp wide open, though stopping it down does sharpen things up. The lens does exhibit longitudinal chromatic aberration (magenta and green fringing in front of and behind the focus plane, respectively), but even when looking at 42MP images from the a7R III you might need to look pretty close to see it. However, it can be distracting around high contrast edges, such as the specular highlights in the lower left corner of this shot at the beach. Lateral chromatic aberration is generally well controlled.

Optical performance exceeded my expectations for a lens at this price point

The lens has some issues with bokeh as well. You can see examples of onion ring patterns in the out of focus Christmas lights at the Pike Place Market. However, this was more the exception than the rule across the photos I took. Interestingly, neither of these aberrations are as bad as what we saw with the Rokinon 50mm F1.4.

Autofocus is neither as quick nor as decisive as on the native Sony lens (which is very fast, thanks to Direct Drive SSM). If you’re used to quick focusing lenses, the Rokinon can feel slow, though I didn’t find it sluggish enough that I would consider it unusable, and most of the time it slides into focus without much trouble. It performs better in this respect than Rokinon’s AF 50mm F1.4 lens, which hunts noticeably.

Although the Rokinon AF 35mm F1.4 FE isn’t a particularly fast focusing lens, it does focus in low light, allowing you to shoot reliably in dim settings.
35mm | ISO 800 | F2.8 | 1/250 sec.
Photo by Dale Baskin

Autofocus works reasonably well in video, but the autofocus motor is audible during operation. The good news is that it makes a lot less noise than its 50mm F1.4 sibling, which can be heard several feet away. It’s unlikely to be noticed by anyone other than the photographer except in very quiet settings, but it’s certainly loud enough to be picked up by on-camera microphones if you’re recording video. The lens also supports Sony’s Eye AF, and it generally worked reliably for me.

For the price, it delivers a lot of bang for your buck and could be a viable alternative if you’re on a budget

If you’re looking for a fast 35mm F1.4 lens to use with an E-mount camera, the Rokinon is definitely worth considering. Optical performance is good (in some cases, as good as the Sony), though it’s still not in the same league as the Canon 35mm F1.4L II USM, which can be used on E-mount with an adapter. For the price, however, it delivers a lot of bang for your buck and could be a viable alternative if you’re on a budget.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Myth and Reality of Shooting in Manual Mode

21 Dec

I’ve heard it. You’ve heard it. And it’s a great big steaming pile of…baloney.

Myth – Professionals Only Shoot in Manual Mode

I recently read an account of a new photographer who heard that “expert” photographers only shoot in manual mode, so he headed out to shoot. Camera firmly set to M, he shot away, happy as could be. However, the results from that first exploration were, needless to say, disappointing; overexposures, under-exposures, and a lot of crappy, blurred photos.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

I had about 10 seconds to make this image of a grove of Baobabs in Botswana. Had I been fiddling with finding the right manual settings, I likely would have missed the shot.

Here is the reality: Professionals and other experienced photographers use just about every shooting mode on their camera.

Those modes are there for a reason. Settings provide simplicity, speed, flexibility, or full control. Depending on the conditions in which you are shooting, any one of these may be appropriate. While other articles here at dPS discuss how to use each of the settings on your camera, I want to talk about the myth of Manual Mode, but also why it’s important to use it

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

Moving subjects and quickly shifting scenes are not conducive to manual mode.

The Professional Reality

Try shooting on full manual control while making images of birds in flight. Go on, try it. I’ll wait.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

On the off chance that you actually went out and tried that exercise, I suspect you ended up with a lot of really bad photos. As birds passed quickly in front of different backdrops, as the sun darted in and out from behind clouds, the lighting conditions were undoubtedly in constant change. To adapt to those changes on the fly would be a nearly impossible task.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

Rather, any professional would use one of the other settings. I, for example, would probably choose Shutter Priority mode under those conditions. That would assure I could maintain sharp (or artfully blurred) images as I shot, and leave the decision on aperture up to the camera. If I wanted a brighter or darker exposure I’d adjust the exposure compensation.

Now, if I was carefully shooting a landscape and had a particular vision for the final image, that’s when I’d make the switch to Manual Mode. In manual, I can take full control of the scene. I can adjust the depth of field, the exposure, incorporate blurs, or selective focus. In Manual Mode, I own all aspects of the final image, for better or worse.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

My point here is simply this – professionals use all the tools at their disposal. If it were true that pros only use Manual Mode, then pro-level cameras would only have one setting. Quite obviously, that is not the case.

You Still Need to Shoot in Manual

Shoot in Manual Mode, but not all the time. But understanding exposure, focus, shutter speed, and aperture and their effect on the final image is the heart of photography. To master the technical aspects of image-creation, you need to be able to put all these together without the help of your camera.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

Manual Mode is perfect for landscape photography because you have the time to dedicate to creating the image you envision.

Manual means full control

I regularly practice the art of manual settings. When a scene is in front of me, I’ll imagine a particular way to portray it. I’ll envision how bright I want the image to appear. I select the focal point, whether motion blur is incorporated or eliminated, and how deep the depth of field should be.

Once I’ve got the image in my mind. I’ll select the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture without using the camera’s light meter to help me. Then I click the shutter and have a look.

Professionals Shoot in Manual ModeThis exercise reminds me of light and settings and how the camera works, sure. But more so, it turns every aspect of the image into a purposeful decision. There is no “spray and pray” photography when you are shooting in Manual Mode. Setting your camera to that scary “M” means you grant yourself full control and full responsibility for whatever emerges.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

Aurora borealis and most other night photography require the use of Manual Mode.

There is no better way to learn about your camera, light, and about thoughtful photography than to set your camera to Manual Mode, turn off the autofocus, and go make images.

Summary

It’s absolute nonsense that pros only shoot in manual. Utter garbage. Your camera has a bunch of settings for a reason. Shooting in just one would be like only eating one type of food. Each has a purpose, and each has their place in the art of photography.

Professionals Shoot in Manual Mode

Purposefully underexposed images are also well-suited to Manual Mode, particularly when you want to retain a shallow depth of field, as I did with this flower image.

However, and this is a big HOWEVER, shooting in Manual Mode may be the best tool at our disposal for turning our photography into a purposeful exercise. Using manual will force you to understand depth, light, exposure, blur, and focus.

So yes, you should shoot in manual mode. Just not all the time.

The post The Myth and Reality of Shooting in Manual Mode by David Shaw appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Photojournalist Andrew Grimm sues Ohio deputy who shot him

21 Dec

In September, New Carlisle News photographer Andrew Grimm was shot by Clark County Sheriff’s Deputy Jacob Shaw when the officer mistook Grimm’s camera for a firearm. The incident, which was captured by Shaw’s body camera, happened while Grimm was setting up his equipment to photograph Shaw, who was in the middle of a traffic stop.

The body camera footage shows Grimm, who was shot in the chest and grazed in the shoulder, telling Shaw that he had both flashed his car lights and waved in order to alert the deputy to his presence. Shaw, who knew Grimm, was recorded by his camera saying, “Andy, I’m sorry, brother. Listen, dude, you pulled that out like a gun out of the back of the Jeep. I thought it was a freaking gun, Andy.”

Shaw reportedly failed to provide Grimm with any warnings before opening fire, which is said to have happened within seconds of Shaw exiting his cruiser. As reported at the time, the Ohio Bureau of Criminal Investigation opened an investigation into the matter.

Though Grimm had said shortly after the shooting that he hadn’t wanted Shaw to lose his job, the photographer and his wife, plus KBA News, have since filed a lawsuit against the Clark County Board of County Commissioners, the City of New Carlisle, Ohio, and Sheriff’s Deputy Jacob Shaw. The lawsuit accuses Deputy Shaw of violating Grimm’s civil rights and using excessive force, seeking at least $ 75,000 in damages for a variety of claims.

Since the shooting, the lawsuit claims Grimm experiences both psychological and physical issues, including nervousness when around law enforcement officers, disturbed sleep, anxiety, and headaches. It also accuses the local Sheriff’s Office of having “ratified” Shaw’s actions by allowing him to return to work—despite the ongoing Ohio Bureau of Criminal Investigation probe, Deputy Shaw has been given role in the Clark County Jail—and that the Sheriff’s Office failed to properly train and supervise Shaw.

The suit was filed in the Ohio Southern District Court in Cincinnati with Judge Timothy S. Black presiding.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 simple DIY gifts for the photography lovers in your life

21 Dec

Christmas is nearly upon us, stores are overcrowded, and inventory is running low. The solution? A DIY gift that is both unique and easy to make! And thanks to the team at Cooperative of Photography (COOPH), you’ve got a ready-made tutorial that will show you how to do just that.

The video highlights 10 simple DIY gifts anyone can make for the photographers and photo lovers in their life. Projects include transforming a Rubik’s cube into a photo cube, a DIY candle holder, unique photo hanger, and lots more. Check out the full video above.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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