RSS
 

Archive for March, 2017

Insta360 Air 360-degree camera for Android quick review

17 Mar

Insta360 Air
$ 129/£139 | www.insta360.com | Buy Now 

The Insta360 Air is a smartphone add-on that turns your Android device into a fully-fledged 360-degree VR camera. It’s capable of capturing still images and video, and comes with a live-streaming function. It only weighs 26.5 grams / ~1oz, comes with a protective rubber case and attaches to your phone either via the microUSB or USB Type-C port. We got our hands on the latter version and have tried it out on the Huawei P10 and Motorola Moto Z Force.

Key specifications:

  • Phone Compatibility Android phones
  • Dual-fisheye lenses
  • F2.4 aperture
  • 3008 x 1504 (3K) still image resolution
  • 2560 x 1280 video resolution (3008 x 1504 with some smartphones)
  • 30 frames per second
  • Real-time stitching
  • 37.6mm / 1.48in diameter
  • 26.5 grams
  • Available with microUSB or Type-C connector 
The Insta360 Air is small and lightweight enough to always be carried anywhere. A rubber case provides protection on the go.

Operation

The capture screen offers a good range of features, including filter effects. Optionally images and videos can be exported in ‘tiny planet’ format.

Using the Insta360 Air is very intuitive. Plugging the camera into your phone’s USB-port launches the Insta360 app which lets you capture images, record video or live-stream to YouTube or a web-address. When shooting images or video you can apply exposure compensation or Instagram filters, which are applied to the preview image. 

The integrated viewer allows you to create albums and see your recorded content in all its 360-degree glory. There is also a range of sharing options which let you choose between sharing full 360-degree photos/video or ‘tiny-planet’ style images or animations. Overall the app is nicely designed, works reliably on our test phones and reacts swiftly to user input. 

The Insta360 Air can also be used as a 360-degree webcam on Skype and other video-chat applications after connecting to a PC’s USB 2.0 or 3.0 port. 360-degree webcam support for Mac should be provided soon via a software update. 

 The Insta360 Air can also be used as a 360-degree webcam.

Stills

In still image mode the Insta360 Air captures photos with a size of 3008 x 1504 pixels. That’s less still image resolution than you’ll find on cameras like the Samsung Camera 360, the LG Cam 360 or the Ricoh Theta SC and when viewed in 360-degree mode on a large screen the levels of fine detail aren’t great. That said, images usually show good color and exposure, and the stitching algorithm that joins the two halves of the images does a very good job. Very occasionally, minor ghosting can be visible but otherwise images taken in good light are relatively free of artifacts.

To view this image in the Google Photos 360 degree viewer click here.

When sharing images, you get the option to export them in a ‘tiny planet’ style format which can, depending on the subject, make for interesting effects. The radius of your ‘planet’ can be adjusted by pinch-zooming. The image below is the ‘tiny planet’ version of the photo above.

This is another image in bright light. Up-close the images can look a little soft but still provides a very immersive experience when viewed in a 360-degree viewer. We also like the way the area right below the camera is slightly darkened to make it less intrusive in the image.

 To view this image in the Google Photos 360 degree viewer click here.

The Insta360 Air deals well with well-lit interior scenes like the one below. There is some luminance noise in shadow areas but given the relatively low image resolution it is not very intrusive.

  To view this image in the Google Photos 360 degree viewer click here.

The image below has captured a good impression of what’s going on in this busy scene at MWC 2017. The camera white balance deals very well with the many different sources of illumination and image detail is not significantly reduced from outdoor images. There is no EXIF-data reported but the shutter speeds are fast enough to avoid most motion blur in indoor scenes.  

  To view this image in the Google Photos 360 degree viewer click here.

Image filters can be applied at the point of capture, like I did for the image below, or in post-processing.  

 To view this image in the Google Photos 360 degree viewer click here.

Video

In video mode the Insta360 Air can record 2560 x 1280 video resolution, which is more or less in line with other entry-level 360-degree cameras. Insta360 says that with some phones a resolution of 3008 x 1504 pixels can be achieved but neither the Motorola Moto Z Force or the Huawei P10 which I used for this test offered this option, despite start-of-the-art chipsets. 

2560 pixels wide is more than Full-HD resolution but stretched across an entire 360-degree circle the it’s actually not that impressive and at screen size videos look a little soft. They are great at typical social media size though, with good exposure and color and smooth motion. As with the stills, occasionally some ghosting is visible. 

The 1280p low-light clip below is clean but again pretty soft. Nevertheless, the clip offers a good impression of the interior space it was recorded in. 

The camera also offers a 960p video option which saves you some space in your phone’s storage, but as you can see in the clip below, compared to the 1280p footage detail is noticeably reduced. If you’re not about to run out of space, 1280p is definitely the better option. Still, the clip below shows that, thanks to the super-wide angle lenses, Insta360 Air footage looks quite stable, even when captured hand-held from a fast-moving bike.

The 960p video below shows that the Insta360 Air is capable of capturing a usable exposure even at night but image quality is suffering quite a lot, making this clip only watchable at small output sizes.

Like in stills mode, you get the option to share videos in the ‘tiny planet’ format. It’s a great way of displaying your entire surroundings in a standard video format and can be a fun effect.

Conclusion

The Insta360 has a lot going for it. It is one of the most affordable 360-degree cameras we have seen, and perfectly integrates with your Android device. It’s ready to shoot a few seconds after plugging it into your phone and doesn’t require a microSD card as it is using your device’s built-in storage. The small dimensions mean you can always carry it with you and inside its rubber carrying case the camera is well protected.

The USB-connector means there is no need for a potentially flaky Wi-Fi connection to your mobile device but it does look a little fragile – disconnecting the camera when using your smartphone for other things is wise. In terms of still image resolution the Insta360 Air is not quite on the same level as some of its rivals in the entry-level segment, but images are well-exposed and mostly free of stitching artifacts. 

Overall, the Insta360 Air is a great introduction to the world of 360-degree imaging that offers a good variety of features and functions to play with. And at $ 129 it doesn’t break the bank either. More information is available at insta360.com.

What we like:

  • Compact dimensions
  • Intuitive app control 
  • Generally good stitching quality
  • Price

What we don’t like:

  • Still image resolution lower than some competitors
  • USB-connection to smartphone feels a little fragile
  • No tripod mount

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Insta360 Air 360-degree camera for Android quick review

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Now Offering Personal Shoots!

17 Mar

Garnished Studios is now offering simple personal shoots in three flavors! Vanilla – Nothing wrong with a classic. A single studio shoot with as many outfit changes as you can […]
Jake Garn Photography

 
Comments Off on Now Offering Personal Shoots!

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How to Create an Antique Photo Look Using a Lemon and Layer Masks in Photoshop

17 Mar

Layers were presented for the first time in Adobe Photoshop in version 3.0, which launched in 1994. We take them for granted nowadays, but they were a total game changer at the time as they allowed image composites to be taken to a whole different level with image stacking and transparencies.

Layer Masks may seem like a scary monster for a Photoshop newbie, but they are in fact quite easy to understand as they work the same way as layer transparency. But layer masks use a non-destructive way to reveal or hide portions of a layer by defining pixel opacities without affecting the original data.

It all happens with greyscale data: think of black as transparent, white as opaque and gray as different levels of opacity depending on if they are lighter or darker. Following this theory, this also means that you can convert any greyscale image into a Layer Mask and use it to create many types of effects on your image.

This tutorial is a step-by-step example on how to use this technique.

How to create your own Layer Mask

Create an old school effect

For this particular image, I wanted to create an old-school or antique effect, like an alternative darkroom process of developing a black and white image with a brush. This mask could be done in many different ways, but, because I wanted to make it really textured and as authentic as possible, I used an oxidation process.

Prepare the paper first

To give this process a try, you will need a paper sheet and some lemon juice.

02 How to create your own Layer Masks

Brush the paper with the lemon juice and create you mask area

03 How to create your own Layer Masks

The lemon juice will oxidate upon contact with air, but it will take a long time. To accelerate the process, you can put the paper near a heat source like a tungsten lamp or if you want it even faster, you can use an oven at a low temperature setting like I did here.

04 How to create your own Layer Masks

The lemon juice will start to turn a brown color. Remove the paper from the oven when you get the color and texture you intend, and your paper sheet is ready to be scanned or photographed to create an image file like this:

05 How to create your own Layer Masks

Photoshop technique

Now open Photoshop and the image on which you want to create the mask.

06 How to create your own Layer Masks

Convert the layer to a mask

Now click on the layer mask icon on the bottom of the layers’ palette and your background layer will be converted into Layer 0 with a white mask next to it.

Press the alt/option key on your keyboard and click on the white mask to make it visible and active. This is a very important step! If you miss this step the image itself will be active and visible instead of the mask, that is what you will be working on.

Once you have done this, the image itself will not disappear, it will just be hidden.

07 How to create your own Layer Masks

Convert to greyscale

Now it’s time to open your mask image and convert it to greyscale. One easy way to do it is to use the desaturate function located in: Image > Adjustments > Desaturate (or keyboard shortcut Control/Cmd+Shift+U)

08 How to create your own Layer Masks

The final image you want to create is white around the edges, so your mask should be the opposite. You can use the invert function for this: Image > Adjustments > Invert (Control/Cmd+I)

09 How to create your own Layer Masks

Put the image into the mask

Next, it is time to paste the image into the mask with these simple steps:

  • Select > All (Control/Cmd+A)
  • Edit > Copy (Control/Cmd+C)
  • Now click on the original image where you created the layer mask and go to: Edit > Paste (Control/Cmd+P)
  • Click on the eye icon on the left side of the layers’ palette to see the image and the mask working together.

10 How to create your own Layer Masks

Add a white layer

As you can see the mask creates different levels of transparency on the image. To be able to see the transparency as white we can create a new white layer to use as a background.

  • Go to: Layer > New > Layer (Control/Cmd+Shift+N)
  • Edit > Fill > Contents: White; Mode: Normal; Opacity: 100%

11 How to create your own Layer Masks

Now just drag the new white layer to the bottom position of the layers panel, and you will have a full view of the final image appearance.

12 How to create your own Layer Masks

Fine-tune the effect

Now it is just a matter of a few adjustments to fine-tune the effect you want. In this particular image, I will adjust the size of the mask. Click on the mask icon in the layers’ palette and then click on the chain between the image and the mask icon to unlink them.

13 How to create your own Layer Masks

Next go to: Edit > Transform > Scale (Control/Cmd+T). Drag the image edge lines to transform the shape of the mask and adjust it to the image size.

14 How to create your own Layer Masks

The size of the mask is right, but the image looks to washed out. We can increase the contrast of the mask to make the blending with the image look better.

Go to: Image > Adjustments > Levels (Control/Cmd+L). Adjust the sliders on the levels dialogue box to create the effect you want.

15 How to create your own Layer Masks

Lastly, for the old image look, you can use the black and white function. Click on the image icon in the layers’ palette so that you are editing the image and not the mask, then go to; Image > Adjustments > Black & White (Control/Cmd+Alt+Shift+B). Adjust the sliders on the Black & White dialogue box to create the effect you want.

Note: You can also add the black and white as an adjustment layer to keep your editing non-destructive. Additionally, you can paint on the mask with a black brush, over any areas you want to keep clear (such as her eyes or face). 

16 How to create your own Layer Masks

There it is, a quick and easy way to create your own layer masks. Give it a try and share your images with us in the comments below.

The post How to Create an Antique Photo Look Using a Lemon and Layer Masks in Photoshop by Ivo Guimaraes appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Create an Antique Photo Look Using a Lemon and Layer Masks in Photoshop

Posted in Photography

 

Fujifilm X100F Review

17 Mar

The X100F is the fourth iteration of Fujifilm’s well-respected X100 series. It still uses the same 35mm equivalent 23mm F2 lens, still has the ‘classic’ design cues, but almost everything has changed under the surface.

The biggest change between the X100F and its predecessors is the move to the use of the 24MP X-Trans sensor. We’ve been very impressed with this sensor when we’ve encountered it in the X-Pro2 and X-T2. We think it’s a much bigger step forward than the pixel count hike implies.

We looked in more depth at the difference between the two models in this article, but here are the key features of the X100F:

Key features

  • 24MP X-Trans CMOS sensor
  • Hybrid Optical/Electronic viewfinder
  • 35mm equivalent F2 lens
  • Joystick for setting AF point
  • ISO control via dial (lift and turn the shutter speed dial)
  • Twin push-in control dials, front and rear
  • Focus ring customizable when not in MF mode
  • Revised menus
  • Finer-grained image parameters
  • Higher voltage NP-W126S battery with percentage usage indication
  • Digital Teleconverter Mode (offers 50mm and 70mm equiv crops, resized to 24MP)

The X100 series, perhaps more than any other camera, has seen the results of the philosophy of continuous improvement. Whether it’s in the firmware updates that turned the original, fascinating but deeply flawed X100 into a likeable, usable camera, or the iterative approach that has seen across-the-board improvements with each successive model.

In its fourth incarnation, it’s increasingly likely that a lot of the people who might want an X100-type camera already own an X100 model of some sort. Which leads to the question: has Fujifilm done enough to make it worth upgrading, from the X100, from the X100S and from the X100T?

Generations of iteration

The X100 series has been the result of an iterative process of continuous development. This has prompted a thousand internet wags to snipe that ‘I’d rather wait until they make a finished camera.’ But, other than the original model running initial firmware, which fell heavily on the wrong end of the endearing/unusable end of the ‘quirk’ spectrum, each model has been an excellent camera in its own right.

The defining feature of the X100 series: its hybrid viewfinder. This, along with the small body, large sensor and fixed focal length lens, is core to its shooting experience and its appeal.

Technology improves and Fujifilm has, step-by-step, reworked, tweaked and refined most of the camera. The length of this table alone should point to how many changes have been made, and that’s without mentioning smaller details such as the more precise focus ring sensor, automatic detection of wide/tele conversion lenses (if used with the Mark II lenses) and revised user interface.

However, many of the core features have remained: variations on the original optical/electronic hybrid viewfinder and a leaf shutter in a 35mm-equivalent 23mm F2 lens. This allows shutter speeds (and flash sync) at up to 1/1000th of a second when wide-open, increasing to 1/4000th of a second by the time you stop down to F8.

  X100F  X100T X100S X100
Lens 23mm F2 23mm F2 23mm F2 23mm F2
Sensor 24MP X-Trans 16MP X-Trans 16MP X-Trans 12MP Bayer
Wi-Fi? Yes Yes No No
Autofocus Hybrid Phase and Contrast Detection Hybrid Phase and Contrast Detection Hybrid Phase and Contrast Detection Contrast detection 
Selectable AF points / PDAF points 325 / 169 91 / 49 91 / 49 49 / 0
AF Joystick? Yes No No No
Viewfinder Hybrid OVF/EVF Hybrid OVF/EVF Hybrid OVF/EVF Hybrid OVF/EVF
EVF resolution 2.36M-dot
LCD
2.36M-dot
LCD
2.36M-dot
LCD
1.44M-dot
LCD
Preview tab in OVF Yes Yes No No
Custom Fn buttons 7 (inc 3 posn. on 4-way controller) 7 (inc 4 posn. on 4-way controller) 2 2*

*with f/w 1.2

Dials Shutter Speed
Aperture
ISO
Exp comp
Front/Rear dials (Clickable)
Shutter Speed
Aperture
Exp comp
Rear dial (Clickable)
Shutter Speed
Aperture
Exp comp
Rear jog switch (Clickable)
Shutter Speed
Aperture
Exp comp
Rear jog switch (Clickable)
Exposure comp range +/– 3
+/– 5 in ‘C’ position
+/– 3   +/– 2  +/– 2
Apeture ring precision 1/3EV 1/3EV 1EV 1EV
Rear LCD 3.0″ (3:2)
1.04M dots

3.0″ (3:2)
1.04M dots
2.8″ (4:3)
0.46M-dot
2.8″ (4:3)
0.46M-dot 
Max ISO
(JPEG/Raw)
ISO 51,200/
ISO 51,200
ISO 51,200/
ISO 6400

ISO 25,600/
ISO 6400

ISO 12,800/
ISO 3200

Max shutter speed (mechanical/
electronic)

1/4000
1/32,000
1/4000
1/32,000
1/4000
n/a 
1/4000
n/a

Continuous shooting

8 fps
(60 JPEG)
6 fps
(25 JPEG)
6 fps
(31 JPEG)
5 fps
(10 JPEG)
Film simulations 8, including
Classic Chrome and Acros
7, including
Classic Chrome
6  6
Movie capability 1080/60p  1080/60p 1080/30p 720/30p 
Mic input Yes (2.5mm) Yes (2.5mm) Yes (vis USB) No
Battery
(Voltage)
NP-W126S
7.2V 
NP-95
3.6V 
NP-95
3.6V 
NP-95
3.6V 
Battery life (Viewfinder/CIPA) 390  330 330 300
USB charging? Yes Yes No No

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Fujifilm X100F Review

Posted in Uncategorized

 

10 Step Guide to Improving Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

17 Mar

Will buying that new camera or lens or travel to iconic places automatically result in beautiful images?

Landscape photographers often dream about the latest gear or traveling to far away places to capture great images. For example, places like Iceland, Patagonia, Lofoten Norway, or Tuscany. The problem is that we spend too much time in front of our computers seeing all those great images on social media platforms and dreaming about photographing those vistas ourselves.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear - leading lines

We believe that going to iconic places or buying the latest gear will automatically make us better photographers, or that this is the only way of capturing great imagery. As with any craft, you need to practice, practice, and then do some more practice. This way you’ll have the greatest possibility of taking that fantastic photo, either close to home, or once you finally go away on that travel adventure of your dreams.

Here are my 10 tips for how to improve your photography without buying new gear:

1) Learn the basics about your camera and photography

Start by reading your camera’s user manual. Yes, it’s very basic and should be obvious to everyone, but you would be surprised how often people buy a new camera and start using it right away, thinking that the camera is going to do all the work. Many camera stores also offer beginner courses. Ask your local camera store about this option before deciding to buy from them.

Learn about topics like leading lines, the rule of thirds, exposure compensation, and the relation between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. I will not go into this in more detail as it would merit a whole book, but these topics are available in printed books, e-books and here on dPS.

Read more here:

  • How to Use Leading Lines Effectively in Landscape Photography
  • 5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer’s Eye in Your Images
  • How to Use Exposure Compensation to Take Control of Your Exposure
  • Mastering the Exposure Triangle for Newbies
  • Understand Exposure in Under 10 Minutes
10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear - leading lines

Using leading lines.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear - rule of thirds

Using the rule of thirds.

2) Do your photography under the right conditions

A word photography literally means drawing with light (from the Greek photós meaning “light”, and graphê meaning “drawing, writing”). I would say that at least 80 % of your most successful images will be taken during the sunrise or sunset when the quality of light is the best. The other 20 % will be taken during cloudy days when the light is much softer than days with direct sunlight.

Many photographers don’t consider this second aspect enough. When starting out, I would often photograph during sunny days with clear blue skies with hard light that produced too much contrast. Today I try to do as much photography when there’s a shift in the weather pattern from high to low pressure or vice versa. The reason is that during this period there’s often a build up of dramatic clouds and the weather shifts between rain and sun creating more drama in your photos.

I suggest that you regularly check the weather forecasts and try to plan your photography for these days.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

3) Scout for new locations and return multiple times to the same place

The majority of my best photos are from places very close to home. Most of the time they were not taken on my first attempt, but rather I had to come back many times to the same location before the conditions were right.

Google Earth is a great tool for your initial location scouting as are social media platforms like 500px, Instagram, or Google+. Remember that you should use these sites for inspiration, and not try to copy the same images that have already been taken numerous times before.

4) Change your vantage point

Have you ever considered the vantage point of your photos? The majority of photographers always take photos from the exact same position as they are standing – at eye level. This creates boring photos that all look the same. It’s also the same vantage point from which your viewers see the world.

By crouching down low or shooting from a higher position, like a hill or even from the top of a rock, it will drastically improve your photos. The visual appearance of your photo can dramatically change by just placing your camera a couple of meters in another direction. You should “work the scene” by looking for different viewpoints and not be satisfied with your first choice.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear - low viewpoint

Taken from a low vantage or view point.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Shot from a low view point.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Taken from a high vantage point.

5) Use your lenses creatively

Use your wide-angle lens for creating depth in your image and your telephoto lens to compress the landscape. Both techniques are very effective and create totally different effects. By trying to pre-visualize how your want your photo to look, your choice of lens will be much easier. This takes time and comes more naturally as you gain greater experience.

For landscape photography, you often want to maximize your depth of field by taking photos between f8 and f/16. You could go higher than that but then you risk having softer images as most lenses have a “soft spot” between these parameters.

You could also try to zoom or move your lens during the exposure. This technique is more a trial and error basis and often you need to take many photos before you’re satisfied. Luckily all your frames in digital photography are free.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Use of a wide-angle lens.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Use of a longer or telephoto lens.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Created by intentionally moving the camera or lens during the exposure.

6) Use the elements in your surroundings to your benefit

Is there is a rock, a tree, strong colors, some leading lines, etc., that you can use to create interest in your image and lead the viewer’s eyes throughout your image?

Because we are fed daily with thousands of images, it becomes important to immediately catch the viewer’s attention and make sure that their mind is stimulated. Therefore, the image should have a clear object, this could be a person or a landmark, which the viewer can quickly identify.

If the photo is too busy with too many conflicting elements, the viewer will become confused and move on to the next image. Less is often better than more. Consider excluding elements that do not add to the image. It could be annoying things like tree branches entering the photo from the corner, paper bags and other waste in the photo, etc.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

7) Invest in good quality accessories instead of buying the latest camera or lenses

There are some camera accessories that are more important than the latest camera or lens.

The single most important one is a good quality tripod. You should not waste your money buying a cheap aluminum tripod that will shake every time you put your camera on it, resulting in useless blurry images. In the end, you’ll be forced to buy a more expensive tripod anyway, adding unnecessary extra costs. Instead, spend the extra money on a quality tripod from Manfrotto, Gitzo, 3 Legged Thing, or any of the other top brands. Trust me, in the end, you will end up saving money.

Another very important accessory for us landscape photographers are filters. You definitely need a good polarizing filter to reduce the reflections on water and other shiny surfaces. Polarizing filters work the same way as your sunglasses.

https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/?s=challenge

Cameras are also limited in their ability to handle dynamic range. In short, this means the ability to register the darkest and lightest tones and everything in between. An example of this cis when you’re photographing a landscape and the foreground looks good, but the sky is too bright. This is where the graduated filters come into play. They have a dark and light part with a soft or hard transition in between. Generally, you should use a hard transition filter when photographing seascapes, as there is a clear definition between the sky and the water. A soft transition filter is preferred when photographing landscapes where there are trees, hills or mountains.

I’ve tested many different brands and would highly recommend LEE filters, They are expensive, but in my opinion are worth every penny. Lee also produces two neutral density filters called Little Stopper and Big Stopper. These filters enable you to slow down your shutter speed. When you see those photos with silky smooth water or clouds, most likely the photographer used such a filter.

https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/?s=challenge

https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/?s=challenge

https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/?s=challenge

While these accessories will cost you some money, they will be more of a one-time expense. Taking good care of them means you can use your accessories for many years to come.

8) Photograph in RAW format and learn to use a photo editing program

When photographing in JPG mode you let the camera do all the processing of the image. This means you have less control over the final outcome. It’s better to photograph in RAW format and then use a software like Adobe lightroom to post-process them yourself.

For me, the main reason for shooting in RAW is to have a greater dynamic range so that I’m able to save many images that are otherwise too light or too dark. Of course, it’s important to get the exposure correct from the start, but RAW files definitely give you some room for errors. There is a lot of information about RAW format and post-processing, read;  RAW Versus JPG – Why You Might Want to Shoot in RAW Format and How to Use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop to Make Your Landscape Images Pop.

9) Learn to focus manually

This is crucial for landscape photography. As mentioned above, you’ll hopefully be taking most of your photos in low light during the morning or evening. You will also be using a tripod to avoid camera shake.

10 Step Mini-Guide - How to Improve Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

During long exposure photography, it becomes very important to focus manually in order to avoid having the focus move during your exposure as is the risk when using autofocus. You should use a small aperture like f/11 and focus about a third of the way into the scene if you desire to have sharpness throughout the frame. Make sure you use your camera’s Live View mode or focus peaking if you own a mirrorless camera, for manual focus assistance.

10) Think before you shoot and study your photos afterward

Often I see photographers arrive at their location, take out their gear, and do the “machine gun “photography approach, taking dozens of photos from the same location over and over again. It’s important to work the scene, moving around looking for the best viewpoints.

The same applies when you’re done editing your photos at home. Try to study your photos and look for improvements. Compare your work with other established photographers to see how you can do things differently next time. This takes time, but after a while, you’ll certainly notice better quality in your work.

Conclusion

These 10 points are just the very basics to get you started. Make sure you search dPS for more information, study photography books, and feel free to leave a comment below or ask any question you might have. Good luck!

The post 10 Step Guide to Improving Your Photography Without Buying New Gear by Jacek Oleksinski appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 10 Step Guide to Improving Your Photography Without Buying New Gear

Posted in Photography

 

GoPro to cut 270 jobs as part of restructuring effort

17 Mar

GoPro plans to eliminate another 270 jobs, the company revealed in its Q1 2017 guidance report, via a combination of layoffs and open position cancellations. The workforce reduction follows a similar layoff of 200 workers announced in November 2016, and is part of a larger business restructuring effort to cut costs and maintain profitability.

According to the new guidance report, GoPro is ‘tracking to full-year non-GAAP profitability in 2017.’ The company anticipates taking on about $ 10 million in severance charges as part of its layoff, a cost that will be factored into its first quarter financial results. Overall, the company estimates that it will announce between $ 190 and $ 210 million in Q1 2017 revenue.

GoPro has increasingly reduced its focus to its core products, a move that necessitated the recent elimination of its entertainment division, as well as reductions in some of its facilities. Last November, company CEO Nicholas Woodman stated, ‘We are headed into 2017 with a powerful global brand, our best ever products, and a clear roadmap for restored growth and profitability in 2017.’

Via: GoPro

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on GoPro to cut 270 jobs as part of restructuring effort

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How to Photograph a Rainbow

17 Mar

Wanna learn alchemy?

Then listen up because there’s photography gold at the end of this rainbow.

More specifically, we’re gonna show you three ways to create a rainbow and then photograph it.

Pick up a tip or two and you’ll be gold baby, solid gold.
(…)
Read the rest of How to Photograph a Rainbow (248 words)


© laurel for Photojojo, 2017. |
Permalink |
No comment |
Add to
del.icio.us

Post tags:


Photojojo

 
Comments Off on How to Photograph a Rainbow

Posted in Equipment

 

Photo planning app PhotoPills now available for Android

17 Mar

PhotoPills has for long time been one of the most popular photography planning apps for the iPhone. Now finally, after a long wait, the Android version has arrived on the Google Play Store.  Like its iOS-counterpart, PhotoPills for Android will set you back a hefty $ 10 but if you take your photo planning seriously this could be a small price to pay.

Among a host of other functions PhotoPills allows you to find out when and where the sun will set at a particular location, when the moon will rise and where the Milky Way will be visible. The Android version has been one year in the making and on an especially setup Android Version Page the team behind the app explains that it was the goal to offer exactly the same features, attention to detail and reliability as the iOS version. 

It’s worth mentioning that the app is still in public beta stage, with the full release expected by the end of the month. So it’s possible you might still encounter the occasional bug or malfunction. If that doesn’t put you off you can can download PhotoPills now and install it on any device that runs Android 4.1 or newer.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Photo planning app PhotoPills now available for Android

Posted in Uncategorized

 

6 Practical Tips to Instantly Make Travel Photography Easier

17 Mar

Documenting exotic places, capturing priceless memories, and recording once-in-a-lifetime experiences are just a few of the pleasures travel photography affords us. But it can also throw up challenges. Time constraints, logistics, and lack of portable storage can make getting the perfect shot far more difficult. Here are a few tried-and-tested tips to help you make those challenges a little more surmountable.

Travel photography tips 01

1. Eliminate the unnecessary

Lack of storage, dubious safety, and the sheer weight of equipment may put the kibosh on your plans of bringing two DSLRs and five lenses to adequately capture your trip. By thinking about how you tend to shoot, you may be able to hone down your kit to just one camera and lens.

Some photographers opt for a fixed focal-length camera like the Fuji X100T. It’s compact, versatile, and good for all-round shooting. But for a photographer who shoots at long focal lengths, it would be a constant source of frustration.

Bridge cameras may provide an alternative, with their versatile zoom ranges in one neat package. Consider your individual needs based on your preferences and narrow down what kit you really need to have with you from what you merely want.

Travel photography tips 02

If you just can’t decide, try this; take one entry-level DSLR with a lens that has a varying zoom length from wide-standard to telephoto and a constant aperture of f/2.8 which is ideal for most situations.

Travel photography tips 03

2. Pick a lens with IS or VR

Each lens manufacturer offers some form of in-built stabilization. Canon has Image Stabilization (IS); Nikon has Vibration Reduction (VR). Choosing a lens that has in-built IS or VR helps when you can only shoot handheld.

When traveling, there are so many times when the perfect shot can only be captured on-the-fly. Unpacking a tripod and fiddling with camera settings may even be entirely out of the question. For moments when the light is low and shooting handheld is all you can do, IS or VR can help reduce shake and potentially save a photo.

Travel photography tips 04

3. Carry a mini-tripod

Slinging a folded down Manfrotto over your back may not be possible, but it also might not be something you’d want to do if you are taking photos in between relaxing moments on your family vacation. Having a portable, mini-tripod in your pocket or bag is a cheap and easy way to get around that issue. A flexible option like the Joby GorillaPod can even help get stable shots from unusual angles without adding too much undue weight to your bag.

Travel photography tips 05

4. Invest in memory and charge those batteries

Don’t come back from your holiday with 700 amazing shots from the first three days and absolutely nothing to show for the remaining week and a half because you ran out of memory. It’s now easier than ever to get lots of data and a fast write speed on one reasonably-priced SD card, so hoard a few of them before you go!

Do the same with batteries. Planning to re-charge every night is a great habit to get into, but don’t rely on that alone. When you end up in a hotel that has no power sources or you realize that you left your adapter in the last place you stayed, you’ll wish you’d invested in a few extra batteries and charged them before you left home.

Travel photography tips 06

5. Shoot for post-processing

We all want great results straight out of the camera. But if you don’t have all the equipment that you need or the time to nail your exposure by toying with intricate histograms, shooting a certain way to enable post-processing can be what helps you get the shot.

Bracketing your exposures and post-processing the final image into HDR when shooting the dimly lit walls of medieval ruins might be the only way to save the deep blue of the hot Mediterranean sky outside the cracked windowpanes. Without that, the blown-out highlights may not be salvageable.

If you don’t have a tilt-shift lens on hand and you can’t sprout wings and fly, shooting wider than usual and then correcting perspective in post-processing may be the only way to save that great shot of the iconic tower you visited.

Travel photography tips 08

6. When in doubt, take the shot

There are many times when you feel that it’s not worth taking the shot. A thousand other photographers may have captured the same view before; you may not have the equipment you need to get the results you want; the weather may have turned sour on the one and only day you got to visit. But regardless of how you feel, take the shot.

If it turns out to be a dud, you just delete it when you get home and you’re in the exact same position as if you hadn’t taken it. But if it turns out to be better than you’d thought, you could have a hidden gem that you hadn’t been expecting. Don’t miss a shot because you feel trapped by circumstance. Just shoot, and the magic will happen.

Travel photography tips 07

Conclusion

I hope these 6 tips have given you some ideas for your travel photography to make your next trip a bit easier.

Do you have any others to add to this list? Please share in the comments below.

The post 6 Practical Tips to Instantly Make Travel Photography Easier by Laura Hexton appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 6 Practical Tips to Instantly Make Travel Photography Easier

Posted in Photography

 

Richard Cooke shares stories from a career photographing fast cars and RAF jets

17 Mar

Richard Cooke, an action photographer whose portfolio includes innovative air-to-air shots of RAF jets, has launched a weekly video series telling the stories behind some of his most daring shoots. In the first episode, he explains how his first job photographing a Jaguar squadron in the air came to be, what the preparation was like, and what happened when he accidentally tripped the Jaguar’s air brake on his first flight.

Up to five episodes currently, the series is a fascinating first-hand account of all the trouble that goes on behind the scenes of some truly incredible images. Take a look at the first episode here, and head to YouTube to subscribe and see the full series.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Richard Cooke shares stories from a career photographing fast cars and RAF jets

Posted in Uncategorized