The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Rule of Thirds appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
Join in our weekly photography challenge! This week your challenge theme is ‘Rule of Thirds’ – read on, have fun!
We haven’t explored the rule of thirds in over a year, and sometimes its good to get back to your roots. If you don’t know what the rule of thirds is, you can read all about it over here on THIS article on our blog.
When you post your photo, make sure you include a hashtag #dPSThirds
“The rule of thirds is a compositional guideline that breaks an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so you have nine pieces and four gridlines. According to the rule, by positioning key elements along the gridlines, you’ll end up with better compositions.” – Read the full article
Here’s my personal exploration o the rule of thirds! I got a gig as the staff photographer for one of the Red Bull Air Race series in London (Sure, my name tag had someone else’s name on, but it’s all good!) Peter Besenyei’s Edge 540 slicing the third.
Here’s a great article with a shed-load of examples for you, well worth a read and afterwards, explore what’s around you and share your own photograph that explores the ‘rule of thirds’ – that article (click!)
But how do I upload my photos?
Upload your photo into the comments field below this post (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section below this post) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Rule of Thirds appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The post See the Stunning Nature TTL Photographer of the Year Winners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The Nature TTL Photographer of the Year 2021 winners have been announced, featuring a mix of wildlife, landscape, and macro photos – all of them breathtaking.
More than 8000 images fought for the £1500 grand prize. In the end, it was Thomas Vijayan’s gripping photo, entitled “The World Is Going Upside Down,” that won the judges’ hearts and secured Vijayan the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year title:
Vijayan explained, “After spending a few days in Borneo, I got this frame stuck in my mind. To get this shot, I selected a tree that was in the water, so that I could get a good reflection of the sky and its leaves on the tree. The water formed a mirror, making the image look upside-down. Then I climbed up on the tree and waited for hours. This is a regular path for the orangutans to use, so patience would surely pay off.”
Vijayan’s image stands out thanks to its surreal composition, astonishing perspective, and intense intimacy. And it is in good company: in addition to the grand prize, judges awarded prizes in nine different categories to an astounding group of images, some of which are displayed below.
If you love nature photography or you’re after some powerful nature photography inspiration, then I recommend you check out the winning photos below. And to see additional winning images or to learn more about the Nature TTL Photographer of the Year competition, head over to the Nature TTL website.
The post 13 Abstract Landscape Photography Tips for Mesmerizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Abstract landscape photography is all about expanding your vision as a landscape photographer. Anyone can go to a pretty place, aim their camera, and click the shutter. To be great, you need to be able to see differently, to look deeper, see what others might miss, and come up with your own interpretation.
Anytime I write about abstract photography, I like to include the quote from the famous photographer Minor White:
“One should not only photograph things for what they are but for what else they are.”
– Minor White
The shot at left is a pleasant landscape image. Zooming tighter, it becomes more abstract. Getting in really tight, it starts to become an abstract landscape photograph. See things for “what else they are.”
Often as landscape photographers, we want to make an image of a scene, perhaps a lake surrounded by trees with mountains in the background. But when doing abstract landscape photography, the idea is to go beyond the obvious, looking for components within the scene, details that catch your eye.
Maybe it’s the texture of the bark on a tree, the colors in water ripples on the lake, or the curving lines of the hazy mountains in the background.
What is it? That’s not really the question when making abstract landscape photos. These are the bacterial mats that live in the geothermal waters of the Grand Prismatic Hot Spring in Yellowstone National Park. They make great abstract landscape photo subjects.
It’s not unusual for people observing an abstract photo to ask, “What is it?” They are seeking to identify the subject of your shot. But you must get past that.
You are not trying to make a photograph of the scene or a “thing” here. Abstract landscape photography is more about the look, the feel, the emotion an image conveys and less about what the subject might be. So how do you do it? How do you get great results? Let’s look at thirteen tips, a baker’s dozen, to get you started:
1. Look for details
Look within your scene for things that catch your eye. Pay attention to details, colors, textures, and patterns.
Plan on taking a little more time to study your scene, dissecting it. Abstract landscape photography is not a one-and-done snapshot style of shooting. Slow down, relax, study, and contemplate before you put your eye to the camera. Have a zen moment and feel the scene.
Then make your shot and study the LCD preview. What might you do to improve it? Make another shot. Be purposeful and deliberate. You will find this deeper approach to photography can greatly improve your work.
Look for the details within your landscape scene. Here, the colorful lichens on the rocks make nice abstract landscape images.
2. Use the right lens
Often, landscape photography is done with a wide-angle lens to take in as much of the scene as possible.
But with abstract landscape photography, you’ll be picking out little pieces of the scene. Yes, you can crop into interesting sections of a larger image to create abstract images from the master shot. I do that when I see something later in editing.
But anytime you crop an image, you lose quality, reducing the pixel dimensions of the image. Better to crop in-camera by composing your shot while shooting. It’s also better to learn to see the abstract image from the beginning rather than later as an afterthought.
Watch and nature may present you with an interesting abstract photo op, like this pattern formed by the waves on the sand of an Oregon beach.
So what lens should you use for abstract landscape photos?
You might try a longer focal length lens to capture the rock pattern on a distant mountain, or perhaps a macro lens to study the colorful lichen on a rock within your scene. A zoom lens can help you hone in on a portion of your scene when you’re looking to create an abstract shot, but don’t forget the “sneaker zoom” – zoom with your feet by simply walking closer to your subject.
A mobile phone camera also works fine for making abstract landscape images; it allows you to get very close to your subjects while retaining great depth of field.
3. Look for the play of light
Good photographers are students of light, observing how light and shadow play across objects to reveal texture and create interesting looks. Sometimes, just the light and shadow on a subject can be the subject of a photo all on its own!
Look for how the light plays across your subject. These fantastic natural abstract sculptures are carved in the basalt rock of the Black Magic Canyon in Idaho, a paradise for abstract landscape photography.
So take the time to look at your scene and see if there are sections you can isolate to create a photo that is uniquely yours.
Color or black and white? Either can be effective with abstract landscape photography. These are more detail shots from Black Magic Canyon.
4. Consider line, shape, form, tone, and texture
In previous articles, I’ve referred to these five characteristics as the “bones” of a good photograph. Here’s just a brief definition of each:
Line: The one-dimensional path between two points. It can be straight or curved. Lines lead the eye through an image.
Shape: A two-dimensional outline of an object in a photo. Photography creates a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional world and so all objects in a photograph are shapes. We must create the illusion of depth through other means.
Form: The simulated three dimensions in a photograph created by other factors. A cube photographed from just one side will have the shape of a square, but when photographed at an angle, then line, tone, and texture will create the illusion of three dimensions (i.e., form).
Tone: The range of brightness levels from white to black in a photograph.
Texture: The simulated look of the smoothness, roughness, reflectivity, depth, and feel of an object created by light playing over the object.
Line, shape, form, tone, and texture – the “bones” of a good abstract landscape photograph.
Understanding the “bones” of a good photo can help you make interesting photos in general and better abstract landscape photos in particular.
Can you “feel” the texture of the wood in these shots?
5. Photograph water
After making the image of the lake scene, I zoomed in to catch the beautiful “watercolors.”
The unique properties of water – its reflectivity, motion, transparency, translucence, and fluidity – make it a great subject for abstract landscape photographs. Water can even take on a texture of sorts, thanks to the dynamic motion of rushing water and the smooth-as-glass look of static water.
In fact, you could do nothing but water photographs and have more subject matter than you could photograph in a lifetime! I’ve written an article on doing abstract watercolor photography; take a look for more good ideas.
The sand, the surf, and the reflections of the colors in the sky can make for wonderful abstract landscape photographs.
When things turn cold, switch from abstract water images to snow and ice.
6. Focus on textures
We’ve already touched on using texture as a subject in abstract landscape photography. For instance, you can capture abstracts of rocks, wood, and patterns in the landscape – and just like the “watercolors” described above, the images that can be made from texture are infinite.
When capturing images with texture as the main subject, pay attention to the quality of light and its direction. Light coming from behind the photographer to hit the front of the subject tends to minimize texture, whereas cross light (i.e., light coming from the side) helps to maximize it.
Sometimes, abstract landscape photographs will be right at your feet. Don’t forget to look down!
7. Try some shoot-throughs
I use the term “shoot-through” to describe photos with materials or objects between the camera and the subject.
These objects could be transparent or translucent materials, such as a rain-streaked window or ice. Shoot-throughs can also use out-of-focus objects in the foreground that frame or change the look of the subject beyond.
For instance, you can shoot through an out-of-focus clump of grass while focusing on a subject in the distance. However you do it, shooting through something can add an interesting abstract feel to your photos!
Natural or human-made, keep your eyes open for abstract image opportunities!
8. Use slower shutter speeds and intentional camera movement
A photograph captures a sliver of time, freezing a moment. Shoot with a fast shutter speed and that sliver is small, freezing the motion of objects.
But use a slower shutter speed, and moving objects start to blur and streak, as you capture a lengthier slice of time:
Slow down your shutter speed and water becomes a great subject for abstract landscape photography.
Slow shutter speeds combined with moving objects can create abstract images that are unlike anything the eye can see. Moving water can be blurred to create silky waterfalls, and with even longer shutter speeds, ocean waves can be rendered as a blurry fog.
Another fun technique: You can move the camera during a long exposure to blur the image. This is known as intentional camera movement, and it’s definitely a technique worth exploring.
Combine a slower shutter speed with intentional camera movement, and you get a special kind of abstract landscape photo. The top shot is a top-to-bottom tilt, and the lower shot is a left-to-right pan.
9. Use focus stacking to improve sharpness
The optics of lenses limit what can be rendered sharply in a single image. We call the extent of the in-focus area in an image its depth of field. How to control the depth of field in a photograph with lens selection, focal length, proximity to the subject, and aperture is something that all photographers should learn.
Depth of field in an abstract landscape photograph can also vary depending on the photographer’s intent. Do you purposely want some things rendered out of focus in your image? Perhaps you want to creatively use bokeh artifacts. However, if you want everything tack-sharp from front to back in a photo, you may need to capture more than one shot in a process known as focus stacking.
Focus stacking using multiple shots focused from near to far was necessary to get this kind of depth of field.
Learning the techniques of focus-stacking can be useful in many genres of photography, abstract landscape photography included. Take a look at the abstract photo above of the trees in a tree farm where everything is sharp. Such depth of field in a single image would be practically impossible, but – thanks to focus stacking – it became relatively simple.
It’s not about the forest or the trees, but more about the repeating patterns of the vertical trunks, the texture of the bark, and the shadows in the snow. Abstract landscape photos don’t have to be unidentifiable.
10. Find fresh perspectives
Good photographers seek to show things in a way we don’t usually see them, and abstract photography should take this a step further. Consider it a compliment when an observer of your abstract image says, “I don’t know what it is, but I like it!”
One way to approach abstract landscape photography is to get a new and unusual angle on your subject. Get high, get low, shoot from a bird’s-eye or maybe a worm’s-eye level. Look up, look down, mix it up.
Shooting from eye-level or tripod height is boring. Dare to be different, especially if you’re walking on the abstract side of photography.
Shooting down off a pier gave the aerial perspective here, and the colors and textures of the ocean waves made for pleasant abstract landscape (or seascape?) photos.
A great way to get abstract landscape photos is from the air. Drones have brought us a whole new view of the world, one previously available only to those who could get up in an aircraft themselves.
Even if you don’t own a drone, you can still get aerial-like perspectives from mountaintops and high structures.
An aerial shot can give you a great perspective for abstract landscape photos – except this isn’t a drone or an aircraft image. Steptoe Butte in Eastern Washington rises high above the Palouse farm country, giving great views of the surrounding area.
11. Make it monochrome
Though the roots of photography are black and white, all monochrome images are abstract in that they are not the way we see the world. So consider how you can use black and white to make abstract landscape images!
A dark black sky over an almost white landscape is an abstraction, yet completely possible with a few editing tweaks. You could easily invert the colors and tones for a negative image or shoot with an infrared-converted camera. There are no rules when you walk on the abstract path, so experiment.
A black and white composition can remove distractions, focus attention, and give an abstract quality to your image.
Color?
Or black and white? Both are nice abstract landscape images, each with its own strengths. These are from the Palouse country, a paradise for abstract landscape photography.
12. Avoid scale
In most photos, particularly landscape scenes, there will be visual clues as to the size of objects. We know the relationships of smaller plants to trees and to mountains. But here’s something fun to try in abstract landscape photography: take away visual clues that would tip off the viewer as to the size of things.
A tight shot of the texture on some rocks could be taken from six inches or six miles, and the viewer might not have any point of reference. Sometimes in standard landscape photography, we might purposely include a person to lend scale to the image; in abstract landscape photography, taking away reference to scale can be the key to a great shot.
Without reference, it’s tough to judge the scale here, and that can make for an interesting abstract landscape photo. In reality, the tree growing out of the crack in this mountainside is easily 20 feet tall!
13. Use minimalism
Unlike still life, portraiture, and most studio photography, landscape photographers don’t usually get to choose what objects are in their shot. You can remove a tree digitally if you don’t like where it stands in your photo, but you certainly shouldn’t get a chainsaw and cut it down.
Instead, you must choose scenes that include what you want in the frame and leave out what you don’t.
The beach is a great place for minimalistic photography. This is minimalist, but is it also abstract? The definition can vary and perhaps it doesn’t matter.
Minimalistic photography is a whole subject unto itself, and one I believe landscape photographers should investigate. How abstract and minimalist photography intersect and differ is a topic worth exploring, as well.
Landscape photographs can be minimalistic but not abstract. Abstract landscape photos can be abstract but perhaps not minimalistic. Do the distinctions matter? Perhaps not, but both are styles that you, as a landscape photographer, would do well to try as you seek to grow your skills.
Minimalistic? Absolutely. Abstract? Maybe. Surreal? For sure. These stark trees against the featureless snow and sky of a Yellowstone snowstorm make for a dramatic shot.
Abstract landscape photography: final words
Let’s come back full circle to the Minor White quote. Abstract landscape photography is not likely to be the first thing you do as a new landscape photographer. Most people see the forest, they might see the trees, but they’re much less likely to pay attention to – or photograph – the way the light reveals the texture of the bark.
To paraphrase White, you should learn to photograph things “for what else they are.” Practicing abstract landscape photography will take you to that place and teach you a whole different way of seeing.
That, for a photographer, is an invaluable lesson.
You’ll find an endless source of abstract landscape photography subjects in rocks.
FAQs
What is abstract landscape photography?
Abstract landscape photography is where the subject of the photograph may not be readily identifiable and the focus is more on the line, shape, form, tone, texture, pattern, and/or colors in the image. It differs from what is called representational photography in that the image is less about a literal depiction of a scene and more about an artistic interpretation.
Why should landscape photographers explore abstract landscape photography?
Rather than simply see a scene for what it is, abstract landscape photography teaches the photographer to look deeper, to study the elements that make a good image, and to be creative. Doing so will expand one’s ability to see the beauty in all things and to create images that are unique.
Name some ways to get started with abstract landscape photography.
1. Look for details. 2. Experiment with focal lengths. 3. Study the light. 4. Pay attention to line, shape, form, tone, and texture. 5. Explore water, ice, and snow as photo subjects. 6. Look for and find ways to depict texture in a photo. 7. Shoot through other objects. 8. Try slow shutter effects and intentional camera movement (ICM). 9. Try focus stacking multiple images for extreme depth of field. 10. Explore various perspectives. 11. Consider monochrome, infrared, or alternative color. 12. Make images where scale is difficult to determine. 13. Consider minimalistic compositions.
What are some challenges in abstract landscape photography?
One of the biggest challenges is getting past the need to accurately portray reality. Often the first question someone may ask when seeing an abstract photograph is, “What is it?” That doesn’t matter. What does matter is how the photograph makes you feel and what it communicates. An abstract photograph is like an instrumental piece of music: it is a way to create emotion without the need for words.
The post 13 Abstract Landscape Photography Tips for Mesmerizing Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Apple’s new AirTags are a straight-up gift for photographers. After testing one for the past couple of weeks, I’ll be hiding an AirTag in my scooter, one in my car and another one in my camera bag. Read more » Strobist
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The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The rule of thirds is perhaps the most well-known “rule” of photographic composition. Use it carefully, and you’ll take some truly stunning images.
But what actually is the rule of thirds? Is it really that helpful? And when can you break the rule for a great result?
In this article, you’ll discover everything you need to know about the rule of thirds. And by the time you leave, you’ll know how to use it like a pro.
Let’s dive right in.
What is the rule of thirds?
The rule of thirds is a compositional guideline that breaks an image down into thirds (both horizontally and vertically) so you have nine pieces and four gridlines. According to the rule, by positioning key elements along the gridlines, you’ll end up with better compositions.
Here is a visualization of the rule of thirds:
And to follow the rule, simply use the gridlines to position essential compositional elements.
So when shooting a flower, you would place its stem along the right or left vertical gridline:
And when shooting a sunset, you would place the horizon line along the top or bottom horizontal gridline.
(Note that your camera may actually offer a grid overlay, which you can activate in the menu; that way, you don’t have to imagine the rule of thirds. Instead, you can see it as you look through the viewfinder!)
The rule of thirds also identifies four power points at the center of each gridline intersection:
Here, you can position points of interest, such as a head (when shooting a portrait), a flower (when shooting a still life), or the eye of a pet, as shown in the image below:
As you can see, using the rule of thirds isn’t actually complicated. That’s what makes it so powerful – it’s a simple way to improve your compositions, and it requires literally zero art training or photographic experience.
I will say right up front, though:
Rules are meant to be broken, and just because you ignore the rule of thirds doesn’t mean that your composition is uninteresting or bland or otherwise bad. Despite its name, the rule of thirds is a guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule. You can absolutely create beautiful compositions without using the rule of thirds.
Also keep in mind that it’s just one composition technique among many. There are plenty other “rules” and guidelines worth considering, such as symmetry, the rule of odds, triangular compositions, and more.
At the same time, the rule of thirds is an excellent way to get started with composition. It consistently produces great results, and even professional photographers use it all the time in their work. Plus, as a wise person once told me: if you intend to break a rule, you should always learn it first. That way, you can make sure you break it as effectively as possible.
Why is the rule of thirds useful?
Now that you know how to follow the rule of thirds, it’s important to understand why it matters and what exactly it can do for your photos.
Really, the rule of thirds is about two things:
Balance
Dynamism (movement)
First, by positioning key elements at rule of thirds intersections or gridlines, your photo becomes more balanced. Your key elements create visual interest in a third of the composition, while also balancing out the empty space in the remaining two-thirds. This looks great and feels right to the viewer.
Second, compositions that include key elements smack-dab in the center of the frame often feel very static and boring. There’s nowhere for the viewer’s eye to wander; instead, the viewer looks at the shot, sees the subject at its center, then leaves.
But the rule of thirds encourages dynamism, where the viewer sees a key element off to the side, then takes a visual journey throughout the rest of the image.
In other words:
A rule of thirds composition provides a more engaging photographic experience.
Also, the rule of thirds draws on the way humans naturally view images. Studies show that people’s eyes usually go to one of the intersection points rather than the center of the shot – so the rule of thirds works with this natural way of viewing an image.
When to use the rule (with examples)
By now, you should know that the rule of thirds is useful pretty much all of the time. As long as you have distinct compositional elements to work with, you should consider applying the rule.
For instance, in landscape photography, you can position the horizon along the top horizontal gridline:
Also note how another key compositional element – the structure on stilts – is positioned at the upper-right power point of the frame. Thanks to this, the whole shot feels balanced and dynamic.
In portrait photography, you generally want to position the subject’s body along a rule of thirds gridline:
And it’s also a good idea to place the head of your subject at one of the intersection points (and the eyes, which are a natural point of focus for a portrait). In the photo below, the tie and flower also offer a secondary area of interest, and they’re aligned with a second intersection point:
In wildlife photography, you can align the subject’s head (and eye) with a power point:
And in flower photography, subjects look great when the stem follows a rule of thirds gridline and the petals sit atop a power point:
Quick tips for working with the rule of thirds
While it’s easy to use the rule of thirds in your compositions, it may take a little time and practice for the rule to become second nature.
Try to get in the habit of asking two questions for every photo you take:
What are your points of interest (i.e., the areas of the photo that stand out and that you want to emphasize)?
Where are you intentionally placing those points?
That way, you can determine your points of interest, then you can immediately place them along a rule of thirds gridline or power point.
And your composition ends up beautifully balanced.
Make sense?
Also, if you fail to use the rule of thirds in a shot, it’s not the end of the world. After all, you can always crop your photos later on! (Just make sure to keep the gridlines in mind when editing.)
By the way, if you want to start practicing the rule of thirds immediately, you can always pull up old photos and do some test cropping. See what impact it has on your photos; you might be impressed by the results.
Breaking the rules: should you do it?
As I explained above, it is possible to break the rule of thirds and end up with beautiful photos.
In fact, sometimes you can end up with an even stronger composition by ignoring the rule. So while I encourage you to learn the rule of thirds, once it’s ingrained, experiment with breaking it.
One of my favorite times to break the rule of thirds is when photographing symmetrical subjects. If you’re photographing a succulent or flower from above, the symmetry looks even more striking when perfectly centered in the frame:
This shot of a corridor is also roughly symmetrical, which increases the composition’s intensity:
And note that an image can both break and follow the rule of thirds at the same time. For instance, while the image above is mostly symmetrical, a key element (the man playing his cello) is positioned at an intersection point.
Bottom line:
Learn the rule of thirds. Then break it. And above all, have fun!
Final words
Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the rule of thirds, when to use it, and when to think about breaking it.
So start practicing! And watch as your compositions improve.
The post Rule of Thirds in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The post How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
How can you create and save presets in Lightroom?
In this article, I’m going to take you through the simple process, step by step. By the time you’re done, you’ll be able to confidently make presets of your own – and I’ll even show you how to make and apply import presets for high-quality, lightning-fast edits.
Let’s dive right in.
When should you create and apply Lightroom presets?
There are mundane edits in Lightroom that you should carry out on almost every photo.
And you can save time by creating presets that perform these jobs automatically upon import. That way, you don’t have to do editing later.
In other words: I highly recommend you apply presets to pretty much every photo you take.
(You can also apply presets during the editing process, but you’ll want to use these more sparingly.)
The fact is that RAW photos need edits to look good. And presets will help you do those edits faster than a standard editing workflow. Look at this unedited RAW file:
A straight-out-of-camera RAW file from an EOS 5D Mark II. This is the sort of image you’ll see when you import images into Lightroom without applying a Develop preset.
And look at it after applying a simple preset:
The same photo, but with the Profile set to Landscape, lens corrections applied, chromatic aberrations removed, and white balance set to Auto. This is what you would see after importing the photo into Lightroom if you applied an import preset similar to the one I show you how to make in this article. The biggest benefit is that it saves you time.
That’s what I’m going to teach you how to do in the next section:
Create a simple preset that you can apply upon importing. But note that you can use these instructions to create a preset of any type, whether you plan to apply it on import or not.
How to prepare a useful Lightroom preset: step by step
Now let’s take a look at the simple instructions for making a useful Lightroom preset:
Step 1: Open a photo in the Develop module
Start by selecting the photo you plan to use as your preset base. Open it in the Lightroom Develop module.
Hit the Reset button to zero out any existing settings:
(You may find it helpful to make a Virtual Copy of the photo first so you don’t undo any edits you have already made.)
Step 2: Set your Profile in the Basic panel
Next, you’ll need to pick a Profile. Think of this as a starting point or base layer, on top of which you’ll make all your edits.
So head up to the Basic panel and click to open the Profile fly-out menu:
Lightroom’s default Profile is Adobe Color, and this is where I often leave my photos – but if you’re a frequent landscape photographer, you might try Adobe Landscape, portrait photographers might try Adobe Portrait, and black and white photographers might try Adobe Monochrome. Really, it’s all about experimenting. Test out a few options and see what you like!
Remember that you can always change these settings after applying the preset if you decide they don’t work for a particular shot.
(Also, note that your Profile options may vary depending on your camera, so if you can’t find one of the options I suggested, don’t worry; you probably have other cool Profiles to try out instead.)
If you shoot a number of different genres or in a number of different styles, or if you simply like several profiles, you might consider creating a preset for each one!
Step 3: Apply profile corrections and remove chromatic aberration
Most shots suffer from slight issues due to lens aberrations. The specifics depend on your lens, which is why Lightroom comes with profiles for a huge number of lenses:
Just a few of the many lens profiles included in Lightroom.
So head down tothe Lens Corrections panel and check Enable Profile Corrections:
If Lightroom offers a profile matching your lens’s make and model – and it almost certainly will! – the profile corrections will be applied automatically.
I’d also recommend checking Remove Chromatic Aberration, which will get rid of unwanted fringing and is always a good idea.
Step 4: Make sure the Basic panel is ready to go
Now it’s time to look at the Basic panel. Make sure the white balance is set to As Shot:
And make sure all the other sliders are zeroed:
If you’re a fan of Lightroom’s automatic settings, you can hit the Auto button. This will automatically set the exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks, along with the vibrance and saturation. I don’t do this myself, but if it’s helpful to you, then go ahead and try it!
Also, if you shoot a mix of color and black and white, consider creating one preset for color photos and a second preset for black and white shots. Simply set the Treatment to Black and White:
Creating a preset in Lightroom
Now it’s time to actually make a Lightroom preset. The process is extremely simple:
Step 1: Click the Create Preset option
Make sure you’re in the Develop module, then click the Plus icon next to the Presets panel:
And select Create Preset:
Step 2: Determine which settings should be a part of your preset
The New Develop Preset window should come up:
Give your preset a name and select a folder to save it in:
Then select the settings you’d like to save as your preset. Hitting Check All works fine if you’re creating the preset I discussed above – though if you’ve decided to create a more targeted editing preset, you may want to only check certain boxes.
Step 3: Hit Create
Finally, once you’re ready to save your preset, press Create:
And that’s it! It’s a simple process that doesn’t take very long and can save you a lot of time when importing or editing your photos.
Applying presets upon import
To apply the preset you just created upon importing your photos, launch the Import window:
Then head over to the Apply During Import panel and set the Develop Settings menu to the appropriate preset:
(This is where creating several presets helps saves time, as you can pick the best preset for the photos you are importing.)
Then, when you click the Import button, Lightroom applies the settings from your selected preset!
Adding copyright info
While you’re in the Import window, it’s worth setting up another preset to automatically add copyright information to photo metadata upon import.
So go to the Metadata menu in the Apply During Import panel and select New.
Lightroom will open the New Metadata Preset window, where you can add information such as your name and copyright details:
So give the preset a name, then click the Check Filled button (so the relevant boxes are checked as you go along):
Under IPTC Copyright, set Copyright Status to Copyrighted and fill in the other fields appropriately (my entries are shown below).
Under IPTC Creator, add your name, website, email address, and any other appropriate details. Personally, I leave out my address – I move around a lot so it’s constantly changing (plus identity theft is a risk).
Click Done when you’re finished. Then, when you import photos, simply select the preset from the Metadata menu:
How to create your own Lightroom presets: your turn
Hopefully, you’re now ready to create Lightroom presets of your own (and you have some ideas for useful presets).
That way, you can save time and speed up your workflow!
Now over to you:
What kind of presets do you plan to create? How do you plan to use them on your photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The Mastering Lightroom Collection
My Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom. They cover every aspect of the software – from the Library module to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy!
The post How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
The post The Best Camera for Travel Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
I love photography and I love to travel, so I often get the question, “What is the best camera for travel photography?”
When I bought my first camera in 1994, I really wasn’t thinking too hard about the decision. Growing up in Australia, I always longed to travel the world. When I was 20 years old, I got my chance – I bought my first camera and my first overseas airline ticket on the same day.
At the time, I wanted a camera that was compact, light, affordable, and weather resistant. I didn’t know much about photography, but I ended up walking out of the duty-free camera store with a Pentax Zoom 90WR. This compact point and shoot traveled with me all over Europe for the next two years and made a ton of memories. It was also my doorway into photography.
Since buying that first Pentax, I have traveled with dozens of cameras – film, instant, and digital. Although technology has changed, what I look for today is the same as what I looked for 25 years ago.
What should you look for in a travel camera?
Here is my list of ideal travel camera characteristics:
Compact and lightweight
An excellent fixed lens (or a good range of lenses available)
A good range of features
Good battery life
Weather resistant
A competitive price
Note that I used the word “ideal,” as there are very few cameras that offer everything on the list. In fact, one of my favorite travel camera and lens combinations is the Fujifilm X-T3 and the Fujifilm 50-140mm lens, and it’s not exactly a pocketable option.
But for this list of best cameras for travel photography, I focused on compact and lightweight models, starting with my number one pick:
1. Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III
The Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III is the third iteration of a popular point and shoot series from Canon. It’s sleek, it’s stylish, and it almost looks like a mini DSLR.
Many compact cameras have a tiny sensor – one inch or smaller – but not this one. The PowerShot boasts an impressive APS-C sensor, which is one of the biggest sensors offered in a camera so compact. It also features a handy zoom range of 24-72mm and an optical stabilizer for shooting in low light.
The PowerShot is easy to use and produces images with high clarity and outstanding colors. The only downside is the price tag; at around $ 1000 USD, it may be on the high end for some enthusiast photographers.
Pros
Large APS-C sensor
Compact size
Articulating screen
Cons
Premium price
2. Sony RX100 VII
The Sony RX100 VII is a small camera with an impressive zoom range.
Sony keeps improving the RX100 line, and the VII is their best model yet. It may have a smaller sensor than the Canon PowerShot featured above, but the RX100 VII is still a powerful performer. It boasts impressive autofocus, a flip-screen for vlogging and selfies, a mic socket, and a huge zoom range equivalent to 24-200mm in full-frame terms.
The RX100 VII also borrows tech from Sony’s flagship models, which is why it can shoot up to 20 frames per second with no viewfinder blackout.
If you’re a watersports fan, there’s an added bonus: the RX100 has underwater housing available for surfing, diving, and snorkeling photos. At around $ 1300 USD, the RX100 VII is on the pricier side, but for serious travel photographers, it’s an excellent choice.
Pros
Impressive autofocus
Handy zoom range
Up to 20 frames-per-second shooting
Mic jack
Cons
Expensive for a compact camera
Smaller 1-inch sensor
Battery life could be better
3. Fujifilm X-T30
The X-T30 has many features of the flagship X-T3, yet it’s lighter and more affordable.
In 2016, I bought a Fujifilm X-T10 as a backup camera for trips to Indonesia and the Faroe Islands. It was so good I couldn’t tell the difference between images shot on the X-T10 and my X-T1.
The X-T30 is the latest Fujifilm model to take the best features from the flagship camera but in a smaller, lighter body. The X-T30 features the same 26-megapixel APS-C sensor as the X-T3 and can shoot up to a whopping 30 frames per second. And like other Fujifilm cameras, the X-T30 has face- and eye-detection autofocus, which is a big help for travel portraits and street shots. It also includes Fujifilm’s renowned film simulations for JPEG files.
You’ll get around 30 lenses to choose from (the hard part is deciding which is the best for you!). My personal go-to lens for travel photography is the XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens. While there is no stabilization in the X-T30 body, there is optical image stabilization in the 18-55mm lens, and it delivers the quality you’d expect from much more expensive glass but at a fraction of the cost.
Unfortunately for photographers who like to shoot in tough conditions, the X-T30 isn’t weather resistant – it seems there are some trade-offs for a lighter, less-expensive body.
Pros
Excellent lens lineup from the affordable XC lenses to enthusiast and professional XF lenses
Stunning image quality with a range of JPEG film simulations
Many of the features of the flagship X-T3 model
Cons
No weather sealing
The price point isn’t especially competitive
4. Nikon D5600
This next brand needs no introduction; Nikon SLRs were favored by many famous travel photographers in the 1980s and beyond. The D5600 is the latest camera in Nikon’s midrange APS-C series, and it’s a perfect choice for beginners and enthusiast photographers alike.
The D5600 boasts Nikon’s excellent ergonomics, and the camera feels reassuringly comfortable in your hand, although it’s not as compact as other models on this list. Image quality is superb and low-light shooting is very impressive. Plus, you get a fully articulating screen (for selfies, vlogging, and tough compositions), along with excellent battery life.
Pros
Excellent image quality
Good ergonomics and handling
Good battery life
Cons
No 4K video
Not as compact as other cameras on this list
5. Ricoh GR III
Stylish minimalism: the Ricoh GR III.
Ricoh has been producing super-compact GR cameras since the film heydays of the late 1990s. Those classic point-and-shoot GR models were known for their sharp wide-angle lenses and minimalist controls, and the digital line of GR cameras is no different.
The Ricoh GR III is a perfect mix of portability, optical quality, and impressive features. You get a fixed 28mm full-frame equivalent f/2.8 lens capable of producing good images, and four-stop shake reduction that ensures sharp files even in challenging light.
The GR III is often compared to another camera in this list, the Fujifilm X100V. Consider the Ricoh if you prefer a smaller camera with a wider angle of view.
Pros
Truly pocketable
Four-stop shake reduction
Fantastic wide-angle lens
Cons
The straight-out-of-camera JPEGs are not as good as Fujifilm’s
Battery life could be better
6. Sony a6600
The Sony a6600 has an impressive spec sheet that includes Real-Time Eye AF.
It’s easy to see why Sony has grabbed a big share of the mirrorless camera market in recent years: the company produces an impressive range of cameras that appeal to professionals and enthusiasts alike.
The Sony a6600 may not have a full-frame sensor like some of its stablemates, but its compact body and impressive specs make it a strong candidate for the best camera for travel photography. The a6600 features a 24-megapixel APS-C sensor, along with Real-Time Eye AF for photography and video, plus five-axis optical image stabilization. The 180-degree flip screen also makes the a6600 handy for vlogging and selfies. I do think that the layout and controls could be improved, but it’s one of the only drawbacks to an otherwise excellent camera.
Quick note: if you like the look of the a6600 but you’re on a tighter budget, also consider the a6400. It may not be as up to date as the a6600, but it offers excellent value for money.
Pros
Small and light
Great lens lineup
Real-Time Eye AF
Cons
Handling and ergonomics could be improved
7. Olympus Tough TG-6
Shockproof, dustproof, crushproof, and fogproof: the Olympus Tough TG-6 can handle pretty much anything.
Going on an extreme adventure? The Olympus Tough TG-6 could be the best travel camera for you. This compact point and shoot can withstand a lot of punishment, thanks to its shockproof, dustproof, and crushproof body.
The TG-6 can also work in temperatures as low as 14 degrees Fahrenheit (-10 degrees Celsius), and it’s fogproof, even during sudden changes in temperature. As I found out on a recent trip to Indonesia – where I was frequently moving from an air-conditioned hotel room to the outside heat and humidity – a foggy camera can be a real inconvenience.
For snorkeling and diving fans, the Tough TG-6 loves being underwater as much as you do. It’s waterproof up to 49 ft (15 m), and it boasts several underwater modes, including a microscope mode that can focus on objects 0.39 in (1 cm) away.
Pros
Super tough
Compact
Affordable
Cons
Only 12 megapixels
More suited to adventurers than enthusiast photographers
8. Fujifilm X100V
I’m a huge fan of the Fujifilm X100 series cameras (I’ve owned three of the five models released over the last decade). Even photographers loyal to other brands buy an X100-series camera as their “take everywhere” body.
The X100V is small and light, yet it features an incredible 35mm f/2 fixed lens. Other useful features include its leaf shutter and built-in neutral density filter. And of course, Fujifilm’s range of stunning JPEG film simulations are ready to use as soon as you turn on the X100V.
The best compact camera ever? The Fujifilm X100V.
While the entire X100 series is great, note that the latest model, the X100V, does have an important improvement over its predecessors: it’s weather resistant. This makes it an excellent choice for photographers who shoot in sand, rain, snow, and more.
Pros
Excellent lens
Built-in ND filter
Fujifilm JPEGs
Weather resistant
Cons
Fixed lens
No in-body image stabilization
More expensive than its predecessors
9. Panasonic Lumix LX100 II
For travel photographers, there’s a lot to like about the Panasonic Lumix LX100 II. The camera has a stylish design, with an aperture ring on the lens and a shutter speed dial on top of the camera for full manual control.
The Lumix LX100 II sports a fast lens with a handy 24-75mm zoom range. It also features optical image stabilization and can shoot 4K video up to 30 fps.
Although it has a smaller 17-megapixel Four Thirds sensor, the Lumix makes up for this in other ways. It can focus as close as 1.2 in (3 cm), it offers a focus stacking feature, and it even includes the ability to change focus in an image afterward.
Pros
Excellent image quality
Fast lens
Small and compact
Cons
Fixed rear screen
Only 17 megapixels
10. Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III
Olympus has a reputation for making some of the most innovative compact cameras in photographic history. Their mirrorless cameras are no exception, and it’s easy to see why Olympus models have been popular with the travel influencer crowd. I’ve spoken to many people who’ve downsized to Olympus from full-frame systems, and they couldn’t be happier.
The OM-D E-M5 Mark III is one of Olympus’s latest weather-sealed Four Thirds cameras. It’s lightweight, yet it boasts impressive autofocus and excellent image quality. Other features include a fully articulating 3-inch screen, in-body image stabilization, and built-in focus stacking.
Olympus also boasts a wide range of lenses. A perfect choice for a lightweight setup is the 14-42mm EZ lens, though if you want more range, take a look at the 14-150mm.
The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III is a favorite among travel influencers.
Pros
Compact and light
Excellent image quality
Good range of lenses
Weather sealed
Cons
Smaller Four Thirds sensor
Battery life could be better
What is the best camera for travel photography?
Choosing the perfect travel photography camera is a difficult task, and one that depends on many factors. I recommend looking at the list of ideal features offered earlier in this article. Determine what you value most, then evaluate the different cameras I’ve discussed based on those criteria.
So what is the best camera for travel photography? Only you can answer that question! Research different models. And if you need to, go to a camera shop, where you can talk to the staff and hold each camera in your hands. Also try talking to people who own your top picks and ask for their honest opinions. Then, when you’re ready, buy a camera – and hit the road!
Now over to you:
What camera do you currently use for travel photography? Which of the cameras on this list is your favorite? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post The Best Camera for Travel Photography in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.
Are you looking to capture stunning flower photography? You’ve come to the right place!
In this article, I’m going to take you through plenty of tips and tricks for gorgeous flower shots. Specifically, I’ll explain:
The best light for flower photography
A simple way to create a beautiful soft-focus effect
My secret for amazing foregrounds
Much more!
So if you’re ready to improve your photos, then let’s get started.
1. Photograph flowers on an overcast day
Did you know that overcast skies are perfect for photographing flowers?
It’s true. The soft light of an overcast day complements the delicate petals – plus, there are no shadows and no harsh bright spots, so you can get a nice, even exposure.
You need to be careful, however. Toward the beginning and end of a cloudy day, the light gets pretty limited, which leads to unwanted blur (especially when shooting at high magnifications). So aim to photograph at midday, then pack up before the sky gets too dark.
2. Backlight will make your flowers glow
As you learned in the previous section, clouds are great for flower photography. But what about clear days? Can you shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless?
Absolutely!
You see, another type of light that is excellent for flower photography is backlight. You get nice backlight when the sun is directly in front of you, lighting your flower from behind.
Because petals are translucent, backlight makes flowers glow, like this:
Try to photograph late in the day when the sun is close to the horizon; that way, the backlight will hit your flower petals directly, plus it’ll cast a nice, warm light over the rest of your image.
(You might even be able to catch some rays of light filtering through the trees!)
3. Watch out for wind
When photographing flowers, wind is your enemy. It’ll blow your subjects in every direction, which makes it annoyingly difficult to focus (and if you’re shooting with a slow shutter speed, it’ll introduce plenty of blur).
The easiest way to avoid wind? Do your photography early in the morning when the weather is still calm. And a little wind is manageable; just bring a piece of cardboard or a reflector, then hold it up next to your flower.
If you prefer not to get up early, or if you need to take photos on a windy day, you do have a second option:
Bring your flowers inside. You don’t need a complex studio setup to get beautiful shots indoors – just put the flowers near a window and find a solid backdrop to set behind them. I photographed the flower below by taking it inside and placing it in front of a white sheet:
4. Get closer
Here’s one of the easiest ways to create stunning, unique flower photos:
Get as close as you can.
You can do this a number of ways:
First, you can use a telephoto lens and zoom in on the flower. You’ll want to pay attention to the minimum focusing distance (MFD) of the lens because some lenses just can’t focus especially close. (The MFD is usually marked on the outside of the lens, though you can also look it up online.)
If you’re lucky, your telephoto lens will focus close, and you can use it for beautiful flower shots. But what if you can’t get as close as you’d like?
You have a couple of choices. You can use extension tubes, which mount on your camera and let the lens focus closer. Or you can use a close-up filter, which attaches to the end of your lens and works like a magnifying glass.
Honestly, both of these options come with pretty significant drawbacks; extension tubes are inconvenient, while close-up filters reduce image quality. Sure, they work, and if you’re just getting started with flower photography, either method will help you take interesting close-up shots. But if you want to really improve your images, I’d recommend a dedicated macro lens, which will let you capture intimate images without the need for accessories.
5. Use a reflector
Here’s a quick tip:
Shaded flowers can make for some stunning photos (especially when you combine a shaded subject and a well-lit background!).
But you’ll need to keep your flower relatively bright. So if your subject is in the shade, use a reflector to bounce some light (this will also make your flower more vibrant!).
6. Avoid a cluttered background
Here’s another quick piece of advice:
In flower photography, the background can make or break the image. A uniform background can look great – whereas a cluttered, distracting background will draw the eye and prevent the viewer from appreciating your main subject.
Before you hit the shutter button, ask yourself:
Does my background complement the flower? Or does it distract?
And if it does distract, try to change your position until the distractions are gone, and you’re left with nothing but a beautiful wash of color.
7. Use a shallow depth of field
Shallow depth of field flower photos can look great – but what is a shallow depth of field, and how do you achieve it?
A shallow depth of field features only a sliver of sharpness. So the flower stays sharp, but the background is blurred, like this:
To get a shallow depth of field, make sure to use a wide aperture (i.e., a low f-number) such as f/2.8 or f/4. And get as close as you can to your subject while also increasing the distance between the subject and the background.
8. Keep a part of your flower sharp
A shallow depth of field effect is great – but you’ll still need to keep at least part of the flower sharp so that your viewer’s eye has an anchor point.
So do what’s necessary to get a crisp image. If you’re shooting in good light, raise your shutter speed and focus carefully. If you’re shooting in poor light, use a tripod and a remote release to avoid camera shake.
Remember: Even if there doesn’t seem to be wind, flowers always move a little. So if your flower isn’t sharp, try raising the shutter speed a stop or two.
Finally, check your focus. If necessary, focus manually. Make sure you’ve nailed the most important parts of the flower, such as the petals and the flower center.
9. Change your point of view
If you’re after unique flower photos, don’t just take a standard shot. Instead, move around and try some different angles and focal lengths.
For instance, shoot the flower from behind or from below to capture an interesting point of view. You might also try shooting down from above, getting unusually up close and personal, or zooming out for a wider environmental image.
10. Focus through another flower
“Focusing through” is a popular technique among professional flower photographers, and for good reason:
It looks really, really cool, especially when you get a lot of colorful foreground blur.
Like this:
But how can you create such a compelling image? How do you get a nice foreground blur?
You simply find a flower you want to photograph, then adjust your position until another flower sits between the lens and the flower. (The closer the foreground flower is to the lens, the better the look.)
Ultimately, the secondary flower will become a blur of color, and your final image will have a more professional feel.
Tips to improve your flower photography: conclusion
Well, there you have it:
10 easy tips to take your flower photos to the next level.
Hopefully, at least one or two of the tips speaks to you – and you feel inspired to get out and start shooting!
Now over to you:
Do you have any flower photos you’re proud of? Which of these tips do you like the most? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.
The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.
The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Lightroom is a fantastic editing program, but should you use it for every edit? Or is Photoshop sometimes the better choice?
In the video below, landscape photographer Mark Denney tackles these questions head-on. Denney explains how he incorporates Photoshop into his own workflow, and he lists the six times he always turns to Photoshop over Lightroom.
So if you’re wondering whether Photoshop is really necessary, I highly recommend you hear what Denney has to say. And when you’re done, leave a comment on this article letting us know whether you agree or disagree with Denney’s recommendations!
The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
The post Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Looking for glamour photography poses that’ll give stunning results?
In this article, I’m going to share 21 glamour pose ideas. You’ll find a pose or two for every model – and you can also have fun tweaking the ideas to fit your subject’s interests.
Now, some of the ideas below are nude poses – after all, posing for nudes is a part of glamour photography. But if nudes don’t interest you, that’s completely okay; feel free to skip past.
So without further ado, let me share the poses you can use for your glamour portraits, starting with:
1. Lying down sideways
This is a good starting pose for intimate glamour shots. It works well in different settings and with different surfaces; for instance, your model might lie on a bed, on the ground, in the grass, or on a sandy beach.
Make sure you get a nice head turn, and pay careful attention to the position of your model’s hands.
2. Lying down at an angle
This is a variation on the previous glamour pose, and one that works well with all body types.
Simply ask your model to lie on the ground with their far elbow propping up their head and shoulders. Make sure they angle themselves toward the camera so that their feet are farther from the camera than their head.
3. Lying parallel to the camera with the legs up
This is a lovely pose with a more playful result. Ask the model to keep her upper body lifted, with her head tilted toward the camera and directed slightly down.
Make sure your model’s legs are up – and make sure her toes are pointed over her back.
And for the best results, shoot from a low angle.
4. Lying in a triangle
This is a glamour photography classic – and it’s pretty hard to pull off.
Ask your model to lie down, body parallel to the camera. Then have her lift her upper body using a single arm.
You’ll need to check a few items:
The supporting hand must be turned away from the body
The head should be turned toward the camera
The non-supporting hand should remain visible
The feet should be stretched
5. Body down, shoulders up
This is another challenging one – it’s not easy for the model, and it’s not so easy for the photographer, either!
To shoot this pose successfully, you’ll need to ask your model to lie parallel to the camera, their upper body pushed off the ground with their elbow. (Feel free to experiment with the positioning of the non-supporting arm.)
You’ll also need to check all body parts, including the head, hips, and legs.
6. Lying back
This is a beautiful pose for outdoor shooting.
Simply ask your model to lie down, curve their back, and stretch their feet. It works great on grass, on a beach, or in a chair.
The model’s body should be parallel to the camera, or the feet should be slightly farther away than the head.
7. Lying down, back to the camera
Here’s a beautiful glamour pose for a model lying on her stomach.
The upper body should be slightly lifted, and the model should look back over her shoulder. Ask her to stretch out her legs.
This works well with all body types. Move gradually around the model while testing out different camera angles and positions.
8. Sitting with the back arched
This is a simple pose to emphasize a feminine shape. It also works well as a silhouette against a bright background (though you’ll need to get low to the ground to create the silhouette effect).
Ask your model to sit with their legs tucked and back arched. Then have them lift their elbows.
9. The sitting nude
For those doing nude photography, here’s a simple pose:
Ask your model to face the camera, then cross one leg over the other and drape an arm over the top knee.
If you’re after additional nude poses, try some variations; you can change the hand, leg, and head positioning for great results.
10. Sitting with the back to camera
This semi-nude pose is easy and gentle. The model should sit with both legs tucked. Their back should be angled slightly toward the camera, with their head looking over their shoulder.
11. Sitting parallel to the camera, knee up
This is another easy pose, one that works well in both indoor and outdoor settings.
(For a different result, try creating a silhouette against a bright background.)
Have your model sit parallel to the camera, legs out and knees bent. Ask them to raise an arm (though feel free to experiment with arm and hand positioning here).
12. Sitting and facing the camera
If done properly, this pose turns out amazing. But you’ll need to get the limb positioning exactly right – otherwise, you risk ending up with an awkward, imbalanced shot.
So ask your model to lie down and face the camera at an angle. Then have them partially sit up while keeping their legs stretched out.
This pose works well with all body types. Note that you should shoot from a slightly elevated angle.
13. Crouching parallel to the camera
Now for a challenging pose:
Ask your model to crouch with their knees up. Leg positioning is a decisive factor here, so you’ve got to get it right.
High heels are a must. You can experiment with different feet positioning, but I recommend keeping the toe of one shoe separate from the heel of the next.
14. Facing away from the camera with a head turn
If you’re after a simple and dignified nude photography pose, try this:
Ask your model to turn away from the camera, but with their head tilted back over their shoulder. Ask them to put one arm up and to wrap the other arm around their stomach.
Make sure the model’s face is not partly covered by their hand or shoulder. For a particularly romantic mood, the model can look down toward her body.
Also, her raised elbow should be pointing away from the camera.
15. Looking over the shoulder
This one’s a nude pose for less experienced models.
Ask your model to turn away from the camera, but keep their head tilted back over the shoulder.
Remember that glamour and nude photography don’t exclude props, so don’t be afraid to add a piece of cloth (a sheet or an item of clothing works well); the model can hold this against their body.
16. Leaning forward against a wall
If you’re looking for some nice wall poses, start here:
With your model leaning forward against the wall, elbows out. Her body should be angled toward the wall.
Note that you can adjust her elbow and hand positioning for additional options.
17. Leaning back against the wall
Here’s another easy wall pose:
Ask your model to lean back against the wall, head tilted toward the camera and arm up. For a more dynamic pose, they might bend one knee slightly (with the back foot resting against the wall or a ledge).
Again, endless variation and shooting angles are possible!
18. Against a wall, back to camera
For this one, have your model face away from the camera.
Ask her to shift her weight to one leg for a more dynamic pose. She can lean against the wall, or you can have her step off to the side (though feel free to keep the wall as a compositional element).
19. Facing the camera (full body)
Here’s another pose with many variations.
First, ask your model to face the camera. Then ask her to curve her body in an S shape, twist her hips, and raise her arms.
Ask her to experiment with different head positions (and you might experiment with leg positions, as well).
20. Angled body and flowing sheets
Sheets and clothing work great as props. For this glamour photography pose, ask your model to angle their body toward the camera. Have her wrap a sheet around her stomach then throw it to the side.
(Especially marvelous shots can be made in windy weather!)
21. Facing away with a sheet
I’ve already suggested several poses with your model’s back to the camera.
But if you want to create something unique, try taking your model to an open field – such as a farm field, a wildflower meadow, or even a desert landscape.
I highly recommend you bring a sheet or piece of clothing; your model can wrap it around her legs for plenty of interesting shots.
Glamour photography poses: final words
Hopefully, you now have plenty of glamour and nude poses to try during your next photoshoot!
But I’d like to emphasize:
Each of these initial sample poses is only a starting point. Every pose on this list has endless variations. You can ask your model to try different facial expressions, head turns, hand and leg placements, and body turns. A slight modification can make for a completely different (and potentially better!) pose.
Also, always remember to shoot from different angles (up and down, right and left). Try changing your distance from the subject. Try different crops and compositions.
Because in the end, posing is trial and error. The more variations you shoot, the better your results!
Also, if you enjoyed this article, check out our ebook, Portraits: Striking the Pose, which shares tips, tricks, and secrets for beautiful portrait poses.
Kaspars Grinvalds is a photographer working and living in Riga, Latvia. He is the author of Posing App, where you can find even more poses and posing ideas!
The post Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
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