Category: Photography

  • Fujifilm Announces the X-E4, With 26 MP and 20 FPS (for Just $850)

    The post Fujifilm Announces the X-E4, With 26 MP and 20 FPS (for Just $ 850) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Fujifilm announces the X-E4

    Earlier this week, Fujifilm announced a spate of new mirrorless gear, including the Fujifilm X-E4, a compact, rangefinder-style camera designed for enthusiasts, street photographers, and more.

    The X-E4 offers no handgrip and none of the standard Canon/Nikon/Sony mode dials. Instead, you get a minimalist, flat profile (though you can buy an attachable handgrip), plus a shutter speed dial and an exposure compensation dial, reminiscent of the film days. This makes for a tactile photographic experience, as you rotate thick dials to change your camera settings – and you even have the option of purchasing Fujifilm lenses with aperture rings, if you’re hoping to take the “old days” experience a step further.

    While the lack of a handgrip might annoy some photographers, it compresses and lightens an already-compact camera, making the X-E4 an excellent purchase for street photographers, travel photographers, and other walkaround shooters who don’t want the inconvenience of carrying a huge camera around their neck. 

    On the back of the X-E4, you’ll find a decently-specced electronic viewfinder (it offers 2.36M-dot resolution, which is neither especially low nor especially high but should get the job done). If you’ve spent time working with a DSLR’s optical viewfinder or a mirrorless camera’s EVF, you’ll know how important a viewfinder is for any type of action or low-light shooting. There’s also a nice flip-up LCD, perfect for capturing shots at tough angles, and essential for vloggers needing to monitor themselves while filming. 

    Then there’s the X-Trans sensor, which offers 26 MP of detail. Fujifilm APS-C images are consistently superb, and the X-E4 will doubtless continue the company’s dominance in this area; I could easily see the X-E4 creating top-notch files for street photography and portrait photography, as well as for more detail-demanding genres such as landscape photography.

    Of course, no Fujifilm camera is complete without a handful of Film Simulation modes. Here, the X-E4 is outfitted to include film looks such as Velvia, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll have a blast switching through all the different simulations and watching as the EVF previews the world in vivid color, black and white, and even sepia.

    As for action capabilities, the Fujifilm X-E4’s autofocus speed remains to be seen, but the press release claims “fast and accurate autofocus” that can nail subjects in “0.02 seconds.” You also get 8 frames per second when working with the mechanical shutter, and this leaps to 20 fps with the electronic shutter (higher still if you’re willing to accept a 1.25x crop!), which is more than enough for serious sports shooting.

    So for photography enthusiasts looking for a compact camera packed full of high-end specifications and capable of pro-level image quality, I highly recommend checking out the X-E4. While the camera won’t ship until March, you can currently preorder an X-E4 for just $ 850 USD.

    Now over to you:

    What do you think of the Fujifilm X-E4? Is it a camera you’d be interested in buying? What would you use it for? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

    The post Fujifilm Announces the X-E4, With 26 MP and 20 FPS (for Just $ 850) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • 65 Films About Photography: Our Picks to Watch

    Photography and movies have a lot in common. While one is the art of capturing a frame, another is capturing moving frames. However, both are powerful creative mediums to tell a story. Apart from practicing photography yourself, one of the easiest ways to learn and improve your photography skills is to watch other people’s work and be inspired. And, what’s Continue Reading
    Photodoto

  • 10 Tips for Doing Your First Family Portrait Session

    The post 10 Tips for Doing Your First Family Portrait Session appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Louise Downham.

    family portrait tips

    Photographs from a good family portrait session will be treasured for many years to come. It’s an incredibly rewarding area of photography, but it can also be a little daunting for new photographers. You need to build a rapport with the family, keep the children on board, and meet the parents’ expectations with gorgeous photographs.

    Family portrait family group

    So where do you start? Which camera settings should you choose?

    Here are some important pointers to make your first session go smoothly, and to help you take great family portraits every time!

    1. Get down on their level

    If you’re photographing children, get down on their eye level. This will lead to far more engaging photographs, and will also help you interact better with the child.

    Family portrait girl with flowers

    2. Use the center AF point to focus

    Different focus settings suit different photographers, but using the center point to focus tends to be the most useful for family portraits. As you take more and more family images, you’ll get a feeling for whether this setting suits you.

    But it’s a great starting point for your first session.

    3. Choose an appropriate aperture

    Your aperture settings will be influenced by the style of photography you prefer.

    As a starting point, many lifestyle family photographers choose to shoot wide open for individual portraits (f/2.2 works really well if you’re after beautiful background bokeh), and around f/5.6 for group shots to ensure everyone is in focus.

    Here’s an example of the effect you get with a wide aperture:

    girl in the park family portrait
    This image was shot at f/2.2.

    And here’s what you get when shooting at f/5.6:

    Family portrait dad and son black and white
    This image was taken at f/5.6.

    4. Choose a fast shutter speed

    Children move fast, and sometimes unpredictably.

    That’s why you generally want a faster shutter speed, at least compared to your average portrait settings. A good place to start is 1/250s, which will still deliver sharp photos, even if children are rolling over or waving.

    If you have a situation where someone is moving very fast, such as a child jumping or racing off into the distance, choose a much faster shutter speed (such as 1/800s).

    family portrait baby held up high
    To capture a sharp shot of this child being tossed in the air, I shot at 1/800s.

    5. Use Auto ISO

    While you’re familiarizing yourself with the apertures and shutter speeds that work for family portrait sessions, consider setting your ISO to Auto. The results are usually satisfactory, and it’s one less thing to think about when shooting.

    As you gain experience and confidence, you can start to select the ISO manually.

    6. Experiment with metering modes

    Certain metering options suit some photographers better than others. As you take more family portraits, you’ll soon see which mode works best for you.

    To start with, try using Spot metering for individual portraits, and Evaluative metering (also known as Matrix metering) for group shots.

    family portrait mother and baby
    This photo was taken using Evaluative metering mode.

    7. Shoot in RAW format

    If you shoot in RAW, you’ll have a far greater range of colors and details in your images – which you can then use for stunning edits in Lightroom.

    8. Use Auto White Balance

    Set your white balance to Auto if you’re doing a location shoot.

    Why?

    Because you’ll be working with a variety of scenes with different lighting, and you won’t have much time to change the white balance as you go.

    Plus, correcting white balance is an easy edit in Lightroom, so you’d be better off spending the time engaging with the family you’re photographing.

    9. Choose your lenses carefully

    Carefully consider which lenses to take to the family portrait session.

    If you don’t have several lenses, consider renting some. This can be surprisingly economical, and it’ll give you the opportunity to try out different focal lengths to see which suit your style of shooting.

    Family portrait baby at 85mm
    This baby photo was taken with an 85mm lens.

    Using several lenses in a family portrait session will also help you vary your compositions, and it’ll ensure you can cope with most locations. A zoom lens like a 24-70mm will give you lots of flexibility, while a popular prime lens for family portraits is an 85mm lens (it creates very flattering photos!). A wide lens, such as a 35mm prime, will help you set the scene.

    As you gain experience photographing families, you’ll develop a sense of which lenses work best for your style. And once you know what you like, I recommend you invest in the highest-quality lenses you can afford.

    family portrait siblings at 35mm
    This sibling photo was taken with a 35mm lens.

    10. Set limits

    Limit yourself to capturing five versions of each scene. This will train your eye to look for the details and expressions you want to capture, and will teach you to include everything you need in a single photograph.

    Family portrait photography tips: Conclusion

    So there you have it – family portraits in a nutshell!

    Practice makes perfect, though, so be prepared to work hard and hone your camera skills. Above all, a friendly and professional attitude combined with careful preparation for each family portrait shoot should make for happy clients and repeat business.

    Do you have any family portrait photos you’re proud of? Share them in the comments below!

    The post 10 Tips for Doing Your First Family Portrait Session appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Louise Downham.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photo Challenge – Trees

    The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Trees appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

    Where would we be without them! I left the weekly challenge topic to my 11yo today, his first choice was “Piranhas” I’m thankful he got the idea from my facial expression that his first topic choice wouldn’t fly… ‘Trees’ he said, thoughtfully.

    Tag your photograph #dPSTrees if you share it on social media.

    Black and White Photo of a Tree

    Still trees, silhouetted trees, reflected trees, trees with lots of movement and a slow shutter… As ever, your options are endless and this is where your creativity must rear up and show itself! A tree is an easy thing to photograph, there it is, sitting there keeping you alive, click, job done right? No no no… take some time and show us something we haven’t seen before, detail, angles, the life of a tree.

    Missed a challenge? Catch up here!

    Tree Photograph

    The two trees above couldn’t be any more different, the first one on Coombe Hill, in London, this one just above in Tilba Tilba, Australia, an old Oak and an old Gum… Moody was what I was going for there! Below’s tree, in London again, for a spot of reflection. Well, don’t just stand there, make like a tree and leaf…. (yes, I know, that was terrible)

    Sports car reflecting a tree

    Great! Where do I upload my photos?

    Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

    The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Trees appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


    Digital Photography School

  • Sony Announces the a1, Its Best Mirrorless Camera to Date

    The post Sony Announces the a1, Its Best Mirrorless Camera to Date appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Sony a1 announcement

    Sony has announced its latest full-frame mirrorless offering, the Alpha 1.

    A groundbreaking camera that offers a shocking combination of speed, resolution, and video capabilities, the a1 somehow manages to speak to action photographers, wildlife photographers, and even all-around professional shooters without sacrificing on, well, anything.

    For several years now, Sony has maintained the same four full-frame camera lineups:

    • The a9 lineup, geared toward professional sports and action photographers
    • The a7R lineup, geared toward landscape and commercial photographers
    • The a7 lineup, geared toward all-around professionals and advanced hobbyists
    • The a7s lineup, geared toward serious videographers (plus the occasional hybrid shooter)

    (Sony also recently released the a7C, a compact full-frame model.)

    Note the division of labor here, with one camera tailored toward action photographers, another tailored toward videographers, and yet another tailored toward landscape shooters.

    But now, with the launch of the Sony a1, the division between action photography, landscape photography, and even video seems to have crumbled, leaving Sony users with a camera clearly more capable than the a7 III, and even offering a leg up over the a7S III, the a9 II, and more.

    Sony a1

    So what does the Sony a1 offer?

    First, check out the sensor:

    50 MP for intense cropping abilities, plus it gathers enough detail to satisfy professional landscape shooters.

    Then there’s the autofocus, which packs “improved real-time Eye AF for humans and animals, and new real-time Eye AF for birds.” Sony is well-known for its top-tier autofocus algorithms, so don’t be surprised if the bird Eye AF makes the a1 a hot choice among serious bird photographers.

    You also get in-body image stabilization (Sony claims up to 5.5 stops), as well as a lightning-fast continuous shooting speed (30 frames per second using the electronic shutter).

    The a1 also boasts one of the most impressive electronic viewfinders on the market. With a whopping 9.44M-dots of resolution, you should have a clear view, even in low light, which is always a plus for event photographers, night street photographers, and wildlife photographers, to name just a few.

    Sony a1

    Finally, there’s the video capabilities. The a1 can record at 8K/30p, as well as 4K/120p; the former capability is what puts the camera above the Sony a7S, at least in terms of raw recording power. While 8K is likely overkill for casual videographers, I can highly recommend the a1 for serious videographers and true hybrid video/stills shooters.

    Sony a1

    Of course, you should also consider the price: $ 6499.99. In other words, the a1 costs more than the Nikon Z7 II, more than the Canon EOS R5, more than the Sony a9 II, and more than every other full-frame mirrorless camera on the market.

    But the a1 really is one heck of a camera, and those who can afford it are bound to be impressed (to say the least!).

    Now over to you:

    What do you think about the Sony a1 announcement? Are you excited? Apprehensive? Frustrated? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

    The post Sony Announces the a1, Its Best Mirrorless Camera to Date appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Shoot Images for Book Covers: The Essential Guide

    The post How to Shoot Images for Book Covers: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

    how to shoot images for book covers

    There’s lots of information out there about making money shooting stock images. However, the most successful stock photographers have a secret – they’re shooting niche content for specialist agencies! There are lots of different specialist fields that you might consider, but in this blog post, I’ll walk you through how to shoot images for book covers.

    Let’s get started.

    How to break into the book cover industry

    There are several specialist book cover stock agencies that exist purely to match clients with photographers and illustrators. These agencies can be a great way to get into shooting book covers.

    However, book cover stock agencies do require a good portfolio as part of your application. If you don’t already have a portfolio suitable for a book cover agency and you want to get started right away, you can try networking with potential clients on social media – Instagram is a great place to connect with other creatives.

    Think about format and layout

    One of the most important things to think about when it comes to shooting book cover images is the aspect ratio. Book covers are almost always produced in a vertical format, so landscape images generally won’t be of interest to book cover designers.

    shoot images for book covers examples
    Left: Canon EOS 5D Mark II| Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM | 100mm | 1/125s | f/8.0 | ISO 100 | Window Light + Reflector
    Right: Canon EOS 5D Mark II| Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II USM | 70mm | 1/640s | f/2.8 | ISO 800 | Available Light

    Books can be printed in all different sizes, meaning that no single aspect ratio is the best for shooting cover photos. Therefore, book cover designers will usually need to crop images to make them fit on a cover.

    Keep this need to crop in mind when you shoot images for book covers, and make sure you don’t place any interesting parts of the subject or composition near the edge of the frame. This will give a designer more options when using your images in different book cover layouts.

    Leave some blank space

    When you shoot images for book covers, you can’t just think about the photo. You also need to leave room for the title of the book and the author. In other words, there should be at least one place in your book cover shot that is plain enough to place text.

    book cover layout examples
    Left: Fujifilm X-T20 | Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R | 35mm | 1/280s | f/1.4 | ISO 200 | Window Light
    Right: Fujifilm X-T20 | Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R | 35mm | 1/3500s | f/1.4 | ISO 200 | Available Light

    You can achieve these plain sections by using simple colors, by shooting areas with less detail, or by using a shallow depth of field to blur backgrounds and foregrounds.

    There’s no rule dictating where book cover designers must put the title and author text. However, it’s good practice to shoot several variations of each image, including compositions that leave room in the middle of the photo, as well as compositions that leave room at the top and bottom.

    Plan your images out

    If you’re finding it hard to shoot compositions that allow for text placement, then go old school and get out your sketchbook.

    Take a pen and paper, draw some empty rectangles, and start imagining all the different places a designer might put the title and name of the author. You can then start to imagine how and where you might leave blank space.

    book cover sketches
    These are a set of sketches based on the bestseller listings of a popular bookseller. The boxes show the text location on the cover of each book.

    To take your shots to the next level, think about the props you’d like to use in your photos and how they might fit into the sketches you just made.

    Playing around in a sketchbook can really improve your images and save you lots of time.

    Finding inspiration

    If you’re trying to come up with ideas for potential book cover images, I highly recommend browsing through a bookstore. You don’t have to do this in person; there are plenty of opportunities to browse book covers on the internet, as well!

    You’ll quickly get a feel for the different styles of cover images across various genres.

    shoot images for book covers
    Left: Fujifilm X-T20 | Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R | 35mm | 1/450s | f/2.0 | ISO 200 | Window Light + Reflector
    Right: Fujifilm X-T20 | Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 R | 35mm | 1/640s | f/1.4 | ISO 200 | Window Light + Reflector

    It’s also a good idea to follow the social media feeds of publishers in your favorite genres. Many publishers regularly post pictures of upcoming books, which will give you a sense of industry trends.

    If you’re an author, but not a photographer

    So you’re a self-published author who wants to do the design work for your book yourself? That’s great, and all of the tips above still apply. However, you might find some of our beginner’s articles helpful; these will help you understand the creative potential of your camera.

    It’s also important to be realistic when shooting images for your book cover; photography isn’t instinctive for everyone, and the best photographs are usually the result of years of hard work and practice.

    However, if you put your mind to it and you learn the basics, there really is no reason why you shouldn’t shoot photos for your own book cover. Though it’s always worth asking a few trusted friends for their opinion when it comes to the final layout – especially if you have friends who buy and read a lot of books!

    How to shoot images for book covers: Conclusion

    Whether you want to diversify your photography business and start shooting images for a book cover agency, or you simply want to create your own book cover for your self-published book, the tips above should get you started. Follow traditional rules of composition, make space for titles and other text, and seek out inspiration in your genre.

    Ultimately, if you’re looking to start shooting images for book covers, the best advice is to jump right in. Put together a portfolio, then get it out there for people to see. Ask around to determine which stock agencies work best for photographers you know, and see if you can get your pictures on a new bestseller!

    The post How to Shoot Images for Book Covers: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


    Digital Photography School

  • Vanishing Point in Photoshop: The Essential Guide

    The post Vanishing Point in Photoshop: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    The essential guide to Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    Have you ever used Vanishing Point in Photoshop? If you’re only using the Transform tools to give perspective to image elements, you’re missing out on a fantastic opportunity.

    The Vanishing Point filter is often overlooked; most photographers believe it’s only useful in a 3D workspace.

    But here’s the truth:

    Vanishing Point is actually a hugely useful tool, one that I absolutely recommend you learn how to use.

    In this article, I’ll explain what the Vanishing Point filter is – and how you can use it to simplify and improve your photography.

    Let’s get started!

    What is Vanishing Point in Photoshop?

    Vanishing Point grid in Photoshop

    Vanishing Point is a Photoshop filter that allows objects and edits in your image to be scaled and oriented according to the image’s perspective.

    You can find Vanishing Point under the Filter menu (simply click Filter, then Vanishing Point).

    Once you’ve selected the Vanishing Point filter, Photoshop opens a special workspace for all your in-perspective edits.

    Why is Vanishing Point important?

    A vanishing point is what gives depth to an image.

    For example, if you photograph a wall parallel to your camera’s sensor, the wall (and the overall image) should look flat.

    But if you instead photograph the wall at an angle and you capture the way it vanishes toward a point in the distance, the wall – and the scene – appears three-dimensional.

    Perspective and Vanishing Point

    Take a look at the arrows in the image above.

    The wall is flat, with no depth.

    But the railing moves toward the horizon, where (if it continued to stretch onward) it would vanish.

    The Vanishing Point filter allows you to make adjustments to your photos in perspective, so that you achieve a realistic final result that perfectly mirrors the scene’s perspective.

    (Do you see how the arrow stretching along the railing appears to fade into the scene? That’s because I added it with Vanishing Point!)

    Working with Vanishing Point: The basics

    When you launch the Vanishing Point filter, you might be wondering what to do and how to use it.

    It looks similar to the normal Photoshop interface, but where do you start?

    Here are the answers to some of the most common Vanishing Point questions:

    How do you create a perspective plane?

    Click the Create Plane Tool at the top of the toolbar on the left.

    Then click on the corners of the plane you want to create.

    (Here, you need to carefully follow in-perspective elements.)

    Photoshop will immediately add your plane to the image, like this:

    Create a Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    Now, when the lines that form the plane are blue, it means everything is working well. Yellow or red lines mean that Photoshop doesn’t accept the plane you’re tracing.

    Once you’ve created a plane, try moving the corner points until you get it right. You can zoom in if you need to be more precise.

    Everything you paste and everything you edit inside that plane (while you’re in the Vanishing Point workspace) will be put into that perspective.

    How do you save a perspective plane?

    When you’re done working inside Vanishing Point, click OK (in the top right) to accept the changes. This will add the perspective plane as part of your file.

    If you save and close your image, the perspective plane will be saved, too. When you open your file again, you can launch the Vanishing Point filter, and the perspective plane(s) that you created will be present and editable.

    How do you delete a perspective plane?

    To delete a plane, simply select it, then press the Backspace key.

    To select your plane, just click on it using the Edit Plane Tool. You’ll know your plane is selected if you can see the edge nodes around it.

    Can you create more than one plane?

    Yes, you can create multiple planes. And these can be separate or connected.

    If you want to create a separate second plane, just finish working on your first plane, then click another part of the image and start afresh.

    If you want to have your two planes connected, you need to tear the second plane off from the first. To do this, press the Ctrl/Cmd key and drag one of the edge nodes to create the next plane.

    By default, the second plane will be at a 90-degree angle from the first. If this is not the way you want it, you can use the Angle controller you’ll find in the toolbar at the top of the Vanishing Point window:

    Connecting perspective planes

    How do you use Vanishing Point in Photoshop to paste objects in perspective?

    First, make sure the object you want to add in perspective is present on a layer. Select the object (you can use Ctrl/Cmd + A to select all), then hit Ctrl/Cmd + C to copy it to your clipboard.

    Once you have the object on your clipboard, add a new blank layer above the background image. This is because anything you do inside the Vanishing Point workspace will be applied to the layer that is selected when you actually open the filter.

    Next, open the Vanishing Point filter and create a perspective plane that follows the perspective you want to give to the new element.

    Once this is done, paste the new element into the Vanishing Point workspace by pressing Ctrl/Cmd + V. It will be pasted as a floating selection without perspective, but that’s okay.

    Paste using Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    Feel free to scale or modify the object. Then, once you’re satisfied with its shape and size, click on it and drag it inside the plane.

    You’ll notice that the object will change shape and size according to its position in the plane. It will get smaller as it gets farther away from the camera, and bigger as it gets closer to the camera.

    Place objects in perspective

    That’s it – now you can click OK to get back to the normal workspace. You’ll find the pasted element (in perspective) on the new layer. You can then use the Layer Style options to add shadows and create more realistic composites.

    You can use this paste-in-perspective technique to showcase your photos on a billboard, create graffiti on a wall, or apply logos to product packaging photographs.

    Advanced tips and techniques for working with Vanishing Point

    Pasting elements in perspective is one of the most common uses for the Vanishing Point filter in Photoshop.

    However, there are some other cool things you can do with the feature, including:

    Painting in Vanishing Point

    Paint in Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    Inside the Vanishing Point workspace, you’ll find a Brush tool. With it, you can paint, write, or draw in perspective.

    Therefore, the brushstrokes will get smaller as they move farther away from the viewer (to simulate depth).

    You can choose the size of the brush, the hardness, and the color. Unfortunately, you can’t use brushes you’ve loaded into the normal workspace.

    Cloning in Vanishing Point

    You can also clone with the Vanishing Point filter. This is very useful, because the Clone Stamp tool will follow the angle and the size of the perspective plane.

    Choose the size and hardness of your Stamp Tool in the top toolbar. Make sure that Heal is turned off.

    Then source the pixels that you want to clone. To do this, hold the Alt/Option key and click on the target pixels (note that you must click somewhere inside the perspective plane).

    Finally, clone the pixels onto a different part of the perspective plane.

    You can clone the same way you’d use the regular Clone Stamp tool. However, the results will be very different.

    Look at the composite below, which shows an original image, the image modified with standard Clone Stamp methods, and the image modified with the Stamp Tool in Vanishing Point.

    Clone in Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    When I sourced the pixels from the top of the brick wall using the regular Clone Stamp tool, the bricks had a different angle; when I cloned them from the side, they had a different size.

    However, when I used the Vanishing Point Stamp Tool, I was able to add pixels in-perspective.

    You can also use the Vanishing Point Stamp Tool as a Healing Brush by turning on the Heal option in the top toolbar.

    Using the Marquee Tool in Vanishing Point

    The Marquee Tool is the only selection instrument available inside the Vanishing Point workspace.

    It’s very straightforward to use; just click and drag around the area that you want to select.

    If you have two connected planes, the selection will “bend” to follow the perspective in both planes.

    Select and Duplicate in Vanishing Point in Photoshop

    This is extremely useful if you want to duplicate elements that run through two planes. Look at the example above – I just selected an area, copied it, and pasted it again. It behaved according to the perspective of the plane, which allowed me to keep any depth and make the entire duplication job look more natural.

    For better blending, you can feather the selection, just as you would in the regular workspace.

    How to use Vanishing Point in Photoshop: Conclusion

    Vanishing Point in Photoshop can make your work easier and faster when you’re dealing with perspective.

    So make sure to give it a try!

    Now it’s your turn:

    What do you think of Vanishing Point? Is it a tool you plan to use in the future? Share your thoughts, questions, and tips in the comments below!

    The post Vanishing Point in Photoshop: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Reasons Why Photography Matters

    The post 6 Reasons Why Photography Matters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

    6 reasons why photography matters

    Why does photography matter?

    It’s a question that we all ask at one time or another. After all, why do we keep waking up at 4:00 AM to photograph the sunrise, when we could be warm and comfortable lying in bed? Why do we spend long hours tweaking our compositions and learning about photography fundamentals when we could be watching television or out with friends?

    And some days, when we have no creativity at all and pressing the shutter button seems like the hardest thing in the world, we continue to persevere – but why? What is it about photography that’s so compelling?

    What motivates us to keep going?

    In this article, I’m going to share six reasons why I think photography matters. Hopefully, these ideas will help you find clarity and motivation – and will encourage you to capture images, even when it feels like everything is pointless and you should put down the camera forever.

    Let’s get started.

    1. Our photographs tell us what is important to us

    When you ask people what possessions they would rescue from their burning house, one of the most frequent answers is a photograph album or a computer with all their digital images.

    Interesting, isn’t it? We would grab photos over valuable jewelry, even in moments of panic.

    This impulse to save our recorded memories is a powerful force, one that tells us much about the role of photography in our lives – and speaks to our constant desire to distill our most precious moments into images.

    Why photography matters tree with spotlight

    We preserve the important events and people in our lives. The ceremonies of birth and birthdays, marriages and anniversaries, holidays and new houses are all recorded because they matter.

    Photographs are our personal story, a timeline of our lives filled with faces and places that we love. They are our story, which we can then share with others.

    Ultimately, the thousands of images we take come together to form a narrative of our lives.

    2. Photographs are part of our legacy

    I remember sitting on a train as it passed a playground where children were standing at attention for the annual school photograph. In the front row sat the teachers, and behind them, hundreds of children were neatly preened and uniformed. For the briefest second, the entire assembly was motionless. We passed just as the photographer clicked the shutter.

    Then, as if in slow motion, the huge group scattered as children escaped their enforced immobility. The neat rows dissolved and broke down into individuals who were kicking balls or huddled with friends.

    None of those children realized that the photograph was probably going to outlive them. A couple of generations later, the school photo might resurface among old papers in an attic, and someone would search for their grandfather among the fresh, young faces.

    Photographs matter because they freeze moments of our lives that pass unremarkably and which seem to have little importance to us at the time. The significance of a photo might not even be ours – instead, it might be for others who search for the person we once were or the places we once knew.

    Each photo can be a small piece of a jigsaw that completes the larger picture of our lives.

    misty mountains

    3. Photographs allow us to share and to communicate

    Images are much more than a simple record. Photography speaks to the best and most generous part of our human nature – the desire to share what we find beautiful and interesting with others.

    You only have to look at the multitude of photo-sharing sites to see this impulse at work, where millions of people share their personal, passionate, and sometimes quirky take on the world around them.

    In other words, our images can share our lives with strangers. How powerful is that?

    mountain landscape

    4. Photography makes us artists

    Photography allows us to express ourselves through an art form. We notice a beautiful landscape or an old man’s lined face and we want to capture it.

    Each of us will have a different specific reason to take a photo, but we all want to create something.

    However humdrum our nine-to-five lives may be, the creation of an image makes us an artist. It feels good.

    5. Photography is a complex language

    Our images can express joy and sorrow, wonder and sympathy. Every human emotion can find a place in photography.

    For many years, I never valued my photographs of overcast landscapes, because I believed there was no beauty in a land with muted colors and a leaden sky. I wanted the land to be alive with color and vibrancy.

    However, the lack of color in a landscape makes you search for other things that often go unnoticed in bright sunlight. This could be the symmetry of hills or a tree standing out from a forest of thousands.

    To expand this further:

    I have suffered from depression for most of my adult life, and photography gives me a language to express feelings for which I can find no words. We have a miserably poor vocabulary for mental illness, but photography has allowed me to develop a visual language for some of my most difficult emotions.

    foggy mountains

    6. Photography has the power to move us

    Photographs can grab our attention and speak directly to our emotions. There are plenty of powerful photos – such as Nick Ut’s photograph of a crying Vietnamese girl whose clothes have been burned away by napalm – that can make us feel things.

    On a more subtle level, photography teaches us lessons about a whole range of emotions. Grief has the power to wash away the brightness and color of our lives. There is no magic way to restore these. We have to be patient. But while waiting, we can search for the shapes and patterns that are still present in the grayness. They will lead us back to color eventually. During moments of great sorrow in my life, I have used images to express that hope of returning color.

    Why photography matters sunbeams in a forest

    Photography, at its best, is a powerful language that speaks to our emotions. It allows us to tell our story and shows others our framing of the world around us.

    Why photography matters: Conclusion

    Hopefully, you now have a better sense of the different reasons people pursue photography – and why photography is important.

    Now I’d love to know:

    Why do you do photography? What motivates you to keep taking pictures? What is it about photography that inspires you?

    Share your thoughts in the comments below!

    Declan O’Neill is a professional photographer who lives in the South Island, New Zealand. He travels extensively, capturing the beauty of New Zealand’s extraordinary landscape. The photographs that accompany this article are part of a series entitled “The Anatomy of Melancholy,” which is dedicated to the memory of his sister, Ann, who died from Multiple Systems Atrophy.

    The post 6 Reasons Why Photography Matters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.


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  • Sony to Announce “the One Never Seen” on January 26th

    The post Sony to Announce “the One Never Seen” on January 26th appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Sony a9 model

    Last week, Sony offered a mysterious announcement, displaying only the words, “The one never seen,” as well as a date, January 26th, 2021, 10 AM EST.

    The title of the YouTube countdown reads, “New product announcement on January 26th, 2021.” And the caption simply states to “be ready for the announcement of the new Alpha.”

    In other words:

    We should have a new Sony Alpha mirrorless model – and our first compelling camera reveal of 2021 – before the week is out. 

    But what camera is this new Alpha, the “one never seen”? What model is Sony teasing?

    Unfortunately, we have no official knowledge, and Sony will undoubtedly stay silent until 10 AM on January 26th. But the internet has been abuzz with speculation, and plenty of suggestions have been thrown around regarding the identity of the new camera, including:

    • A Sony a9 III
    • A Sony a7 IV
    • A medium format camera

    According to SonyAlphaRumors, the new kit is most likely the A9 III, which will potentially offer 8K/30p – hence the “one never seen” designation, because up until this point, Sony has restricted their Alpha models to 4K (with even the video-centric Sony a7S III maxing out at 4K/120p). 

    8K capabilities do come with significant resolution requirements. The Canon EOS R5, for instance, sits at 45 MP, and the Sony a9 III may overshoot this by a few megapixels (SonyAlphaRumors suggests a possible 50 MP sensor).

    The Sony a9 and a9 II are action photography cameras through and through, offering blazing-fast autofocus and exceptional continuous shooting speeds, but at the cost of resolution. Both cameras sit at an “average” 24 megapixels, so a jump to 8K might even call for a doubling of the current resolution count.

    Regardless, a 50-megapixel camera with professional-level action chops will certainly satisfy some photographers, assuming they can afford the (likely exorbitant) price. 

    So make sure you check out Sony’s announcement on January 26th at 10 EST. Whatever Sony unveils, it’s bound to be exciting – and only the start of a thrilling 2021!

    Now over to you:

    What do you think about Sony’s announcement? What camera will the company reveal? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

    The post Sony to Announce “the One Never Seen” on January 26th appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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  • 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images

    The post 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Tim Gilbreath.

    8 simple tips for stunning sunrise photography and sunset photography

    When we are asked to think of popular subjects for landscape photography, images of beautiful sunsets and sunrises immediately come to mind.

    What outdoor photographer worth their salt doesn’t have at least a couple of images of the sun dipping below the horizon?

    In most people’s minds, sunrise and sunset photography is an easy thing to capture; the beauty and scale of the event itself should carry the photo, with minimal interaction from the photographer.

    three birds at sunset

    But is this really the case?

    Unfortunately, it’s not. Unless you’re relying on luck alone, you’ll need to possess a few seeds of knowledge (eight, in this case!) to get you started capturing that epic sunrise or sunset.

    None of these guidelines are difficult to comprehend, and they can all vastly improve your chances of properly capturing one of Mother Nature’s most incredible events.

    So let’s jump right in!

    1. Scout the location

    As tempting as it is to just show up at a convenient location and start shooting, you greatly increase your chances of success by planning your sunrise or sunset photoshoot in advance. The first thing you’ll want to determine is the best location from which to shoot.

    Pick a location that is out of the way of road and foot traffic, where you’re unlikely to be disturbed. Go to the location in broad daylight before the shoot, and ensure your view of the horizon will be unobstructed and free of any hazards.

    The most important factor after the location is the time of day. Obviously, this will vary depending on whether you’re capturing a sunrise or a sunset.

    But start by checking the weather. If your shooting time coincides with an approaching or recently-ended storm, the results can be staggering. Rain and storm clouds can add a dramatic layer of dimension to the scene.

    You can also pinpoint the perfect time to shoot with an online tool or smartphone app that will display precise sunrise and sunset times for your location. Many low-cost (and sometimes free) solutions are available, including PhotoPills (for Android and iOS), and The Photographer’s Ephemeris (for Android and iOS).

    sunset photography over lake

    2. Sunrise or sunset?

    If you’re familiar with color temperature, you’ll know that there is a slight difference in the appearance of light at sunset versus sunrise. Early morning light tends to be cooler (higher blue) than light in the late evening, which leans toward warmer color casts consisting of orange and red.

    Since there are different color temperatures at work here, you might need to adjust your photos, depending on the look you’re after. You can do this through your camera’s white balance settings, through warming or cooling filters, or via adjustments in post-production – where you’ll need to add or remove warmth to achieve the perfect final photograph.

    Be aware that physical filters placed over your lens will degrade image quality slightly, because they’re an additional obstacle for light to pass through, so adjusting color temperature with camera settings or in post-production is often the better choice.

    sunflower sunrise photography

    3. Plan your shots

    Another important step to accomplish before heading out is to plan what you hope to achieve in your sunrise or sunset photo.

    Ask yourself:

    What look are you going for? Will you capture a definitive subject lit by the sunlight, or will the sunset itself be the star of the show?

    Planning beforehand is also a great time to determine any other special considerations, such as whether you’ll be shooting an HDR (high dynamic range) photo.

    If you do decide to use an HDR technique, you’ll need to prepare your camera for bracketed exposures to capture the full range of tones in the scene.

    But while HDR can be a bit tricky to pull off, it’s a great way to produce some truly dramatic images!

    4. Gather the proper gear

    You can’t capture the right shot without the right gear, so make sure you have everything ready to go before you head out.

    First and foremost, you’ll want to bring your tripod. Sunrises and sunsets are potential low-light situations (depending on the part of the sunset you’re trying to capture), so you’ll need a steady base for your camera.

    Second, you’ll want to determine the right lens to use for the shoot. While beautiful landscapes can be captured using a 50mm to 85mm focal length, a wide-angle lens is preferred, including any zoom lenses that can shoot at 40mm or below. If you have a prime lens in the 12mm to 40mm range, you’ll have a better chance of capturing an even sharper image, and using a wide-angle lens will allow you to capture a vast, sweeping portion of the scene.

    Do you own and use screw-on filters for your camera?

    Although using filters can degrade image quality a bit, some can be useful here. A GND (graduated neutral density) filter, for instance, will darken the upper portion of the sky and keep it well-exposed and dramatic, even without HDR techniques.

    A polarizing filter, on the other hand, may actually be a hindrance in these situations, so I recommend you avoid them. 

    (Polarizers reduce the amount of light coming in to the sensor, further increasing the required exposure time, which may not be ideal if you’re trying to freeze motion, such as ocean waves.)

    lifeguard at sunset

    5. Use the right settings

    Before you even arrive at your photoshoot destination, you can choose the settings on your camera.

    Since you’re shooting a landscape image, you’ll want to use a smaller aperture, such as f/8, f/11, or even higher, to maximize the depth of field and capture sharp detail throughout. If you’re using a tripod, this shouldn’t be a problem.

    Although you can shoot in Manual mode, I personally prefer to shoot almost everything in A/Av (Aperture Priority mode). This way, I can lock in my aperture and let the camera choose a proper shutter speed. Since low-light situations like this can confuse the camera and you run the risk of overexposure, you can always use your camera’s exposure compensation settings to drop the brightness a bit.

    If possible, you should use a low ISO, such as 100 or 200, to ensure there isn’t a lot of noise in the final shot. This should be very achievable if you’re working with a tripod. However, if you’re hand-holding your shot, you will need to bump the ISO up to get a shutter speed that’s fast enough to avoid a blurry photo.

    inlet sunset photography

    This is also the time to choose your white balance, and as I mentioned above, you can use this setting to boost (or reduce) the warmth of your shot. If you’re after a warm, orangish image, set your white balance to the Shadow, Cloudy, or Daylight option.

    And, of course, always shoot in RAW! To a certain extent, shadows and highlights that are lost in a shot can be recovered in post-processing later – but only if you have a RAW file.

    6. Compose for interest

    Now that the preparation is over, we get to the fun part! Once you’re on location and are ready to take the shot, you’ll need to consider your composition.

    The most common error when shooting sunsets or sunrises is positioning the horizon exactly in the middle of the photo. While this can work, it normally causes a bit too much symmetry and can make the picture uninteresting.

    Take a moment to look your scene over. Ask yourself: What part of the sunrise or sunset is the most dramatic? Are there any parts that aren’t that interesting?

    Once you’ve done this, simply compose the shot to include more of the most dramatic scenery. If you have an angry, cloudy sky that accentuates the sunlight, let that occupy the upper two-thirds of the scene. If you have an interesting foreground or landscape but a less intriguing sky, let that occupy the bottom two-thirds of the image.

    You want to draw the viewer into the composition, then let their eyes drift to the most dramatic part of the image.

    sunset photography over trees

    7. Waiting for the right shot

    If you already have experience shooting landscapes, you know that sometimes waiting is the name of the game. Because of the dynamics of natural lighting, a scene can completely change from one hour to the next – and sometimes even from one minute to the next.

    That’s why a sunrise or sunset shoot is the time to be creative! Try different exposure times and play with your exposure compensation settings for different tones. Let the clouds and sun change positions, then reshoot, or try a slightly different angle.

    Maybe even include additional subjects in the frame, and shoot them in the foreground against the sunrise or sunset. The longer you’re at the location shooting, the more variety you’ll end up with!

    pier close-up at sunset

    8. Don’t leave too early

    One of the most common tips you’ll hear regarding sunset photography is to stick around after the sun dips below the horizon.

    This is certainly good advice, as the entire dynamic of the scene changes after sundown.

    grasses at sunset

    Specifically, the tones, colors, and hues in the sky often become more saturated and dramatic. You’ll need to compensate for the loss of your main source of light, probably with a tripod – but it’s hard to deny some of the most beautiful images can be shot right after the sun is out of sight.

    8 simple guidelines for sunrise and sunset photography: Conclusion

    Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be ready to capture some stunning images at sunrise and sunset!

    So get up early, stay out late, and create some gorgeous photos.

    Now over to you:

    Do you have any beautiful sunset or sunrise photography you’d like to share? Post it in the comments below!

    The post 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Tim Gilbreath.


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