Category: Photography

  • How I Processed This Photo Using Only Lightroom

    An advantage of using the Raw format is that it gives you a tremendous amount of freedom when it comes to processing. This, combined with Lightroom’s powerful processing engine, opens up lots of possibilities for the creative photographer. I’d like to show you how I processed a Raw file using only Lightroom.

    Photoshop users will also be able to follow along with most of it, as Adobe Camera Raw shares many of Lightroom’s sliders and functions. This is the original Raw file, as it came out of the camera.

    Lightroom processing

    And here’s the finished result after post-processing.

    Lightroom processing

    The story behind the image

    As you can see there’s quite a difference between the before and after images. But before we look at how I achieved this in Lightroom I’d like to share the back story of the photo. This is important because it guided the way that I decided to process it.

    I took the photo in a blacksmith’s forge in the English town of Spalding earlier this year. The forge is remarkable because they use working practices that date back over a hundred years. It’s open to the public and they have demonstrations where you can take photos. The forge is small and you can get quite close to the blacksmith, which allows you to take intimate portraits like this one.

    The light was coming from windows in front of the blacksmith and behind him, as well as from the hot piece of metal he is hammering. There was also overhead fluorescent lighting. The end result is that the light is fairly flat and boring, which is something I wanted to change in Lightroom.

    A blacksmith’s forge should be lit by a combination of cool natural light and the fiery orange glow from the fires, not fluorescent light. I wanted mysterious shadows in the photo, not every detail visible. Points like these are important because they help you work with a destination in mind, rather than aimlessly pushing sliders around to see what happens.

    lightroom-before-after

    First steps – color corrections

    The first steps involve getting the colors right, as this affects the look of the photo and everything you do from this point forward. The most important setting is in the Camera Calibration panel. A lot of people gloss over this panel as if it’s not so important. This isn’t helped by its placement at the bottom of the right-hand side in Lightroom’s Develop module.

    When I took the photo I had the color profile set to Velvia, which gives high contrast and strong, saturated colors on my Fujifilm X-T1. It doesn’t matter what your color profile settings are on your camera if you’re shooting Raw as you can change them in Lightroom. I wanted softer, more subtle colors, so I changed the setting to Classic Chrome.

    Note: This setting is only available on some Fujifilm cameras. The settings you see in the Camera Calibration panel depend on your camera model.

    Next, I went to the Basic panel and set the White Balance to Auto. This tells Lightroom to decide how to set the color temperature to give the image neutral colors. How successful Lightroom is at this depends on the content of your photo. If you have mixed lighting sources, as this photo does, even Lightroom’s powerful algorithms aren’t going to give you anything other than an educated guess. It’s not possible to get rid of all color casts with mixed lighting.

    Regardless, Auto White Balance gave me a good starting point. This is what the photo looks like so far. You can see it’s already quite different from the starting image which was quite orange.

    Lightroom processing

    Auto White Balance applied.

    Tonal adjustments

    The next step was to start making the transition from an image that is too bright to one that is dark and moody.

    I did this by setting the Exposure slider to -1.0. This made the shadows too dark, so I brightened them by setting the Shadows slider to +25. I also set Clarity to +31 to bring out the gritty textures in the scene. See my settings below:

    Lightroom processing

    As you can see now that the image is darker the blacksmith’s face is lit by the glow from the hot metal he is working with. This was lost in the original.

    Lightroom processing

    Tonal adjustments and Clarity applied.

    Cropping to remove distractions

    Now I can see that the photo has a major problem. There is too much empty space on the right-hand side, and the blue plastic is a major distraction. In hindsight, the composition would have been better if I had placed the blacksmith in the center of the frame. However, we can compensate for that by cropping the image.

    I activated the Crop Overlay (keyboard shortcut R), set the Aspect to 4×5 / 8×10, and cropped the image. This cuts out the distractions on the right-hand side and brings the attention back to the blacksmith.

    Lightroom processing

    Lightroom processing

    This is the result after the image has been cropped.

    Refining the image with local adjustments

    So far the adjustments made have all been global. That is that Lightroom applies them equally to the entire image. Now it’s time to refine the tonal values with some local adjustments.

    I started by adding a slight vignette using the Post-Crop Vignetting tool in the Effects panel. This darkened the corners slightly.

    Lightroom processing

    Next, I decided that I wanted to make the background even darker. This is going back to the earlier decision to make the image dark and moody as if the blacksmith is working in a much darker environment.

    I added three Graduated filters to darken the edges. The screenshots below show the placement of the filters and the settings used.

    Lightroom processing

    Graduated Filter #1 applied on the upper left of the image.

    Lightroom processing

    Graduated Filter #2 applied on the right side of the image.

    Lightroom processing

    Graduated Filter #3 applied on the lower right corner of the image.

    Then I used an Adjustment Brush and moved the Shadows slider right to make the blacksmith’s hair lighter and bring out the detail.

    Lightroom processing

    Adjustment Brush applied to his hair to bring out detail.

    This is what the image looks like now with these adjustments.

    Lightroom processing

    After local adjustments have been applied.

    Split toning for color grading

    Lightroom processingFinally, I decided that the mood could be further enhanced with a split tone applied: blue to the shadows and an orange tone in the highlights.

    The idea was to emphasize the difference in color temperature between the orange light from the hot metal and sparks, and the background, which in my imagination is lit by daylight (but in reality was also lit by fluorescent light). I did that in the Split Toning panel with these settings.

    Here is the final result.

    Lightroom processing

    Final image after split toning applied.

    Final thoughts

    As you can see, even though the final image looks remarkably different from the starting Raw file, the steps involved in the processing were quite simple. It didn’t take long to get from the starting point to the end photo. This is mostly because I had a firm idea of what I wanted as the end result before I started processing the file.

    If you have any questions or thoughts to share about the processing I did on this image then please let me know in the comments.


    If you’d like to learn more about processing your photos in Lightroom then please check out my ebook Mastering Lightroom: Book Two – The Develop Module.

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    The post How I Processed This Photo Using Only Lightroom by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 8 Advanced Street Photography Tips to Get You to the Next Level

    In photography, teaching and learning can only get you so far. At some point, you will get to a skill level where it’s up to you to put in the time and effort to continue improving. However, dedication and self-learning aside, here are some advanced street photography tips that I think can help you significantly improve your skill level in this area.

    Grand Central Woman, NYC

    1. Use your eyes instead of the viewfinder

    When photographing, it is very common for people to look straight into the viewfinder and forget about the world around them, but this can make street photography tougher. Your vision through the viewfinder is hindered significantly, and that can hurt your ability to capture spontaneous moments. You need to see everything that is happening around you. This will help you to anticipate the special moments that are about to occur in front of your camera.

    Your eyes are the real viewfinder, and you will be able to notice much more if you use them. Scan the area and look for subjects that are both near and far. Wait until you notice something with your eyes, then put your viewfinder to your eye to capture the moment. If you start with your head in the viewfinder, by the time the moment happens, your ability to notice it will be a half-second too slow.

    2. Embrace spontaneity

    Suits, SoHo, NYC

    This was one of the early tips that Garry Winogrand received in his photography education that set him on a path to become one of the most renowned photographers of all time. You should certainly spend a lot of time thinking about your work and what you like to shoot, but when you are out there going through the motions, embrace your gut feelings. Instead of worrying about every little detail and thinking about if you are doing a good job or not, put that all aside and have fun.

    There is no need to worry about what other people will think. If you feel like there might be a chance for a good photograph, then go for it, no matter how weird the image may be. Don’t let your brain talk you out of it. That gut feeling exists for a reason, so use it to your advantage. If you use your instincts and shoot confidently, that will show in your photographs. They will feel more real and more you. Of course, you will probably take more bad photographs as well, but the good ones will be that much better. Trust your gut.

    Keep in mind that some people may take this suggestion too far and machine-gun fire their camera every time they have an inkling that there’s a good photograph. That’s taking this tip too far. Turn off continuous shooting and make sure that you are able to recognize and capture tha moment with a shot or two.

    3. Think about how your photos are going to age

    Cellphone Fashion Shoot, Soho, NYC.

    It is important to think about your work in a historical context. Think about classic photographs and what makes them special. Simple old photographs of window displays and fashions look incredible, but those photographs might have seemed very ordinary back then. If you could go back in time to photograph, what you might see as interesting then would probably be much different than what most photographers were shooting at that time.

    What about your life and area is going to be interesting in the future? What is going to change? Are people still going to be staring at their cell phones every second with huge headphones on and completely disconnected from reality? Who knows, maybe?

    Try not to take anything for granted, and if you notice yourself disregarding something, then think about why you feel that way. Occasionally, these situations can make the best photographs.

    4. Create themes and consistency in your photography

    Cellphones, Greene Street, SoHo, New York

    The more you shoot, the more you will notice that you are attracted to certain types of photographs. Find these consistencies when you are editing and embrace them. Over time, these ideas can blossom into full-fledged projects and books.

    Group these images together into collections, and think about the type of photographs that you would like to add to them. Then the next time you come across a moment that fits into that category, you will be quick to notice and capture it. Each individual photograph is a piece of art, but a collection of photographs is its own work of art. Play with the order of your photographs and the meaning that comes out with different sequences of them.

    Consistency does not mean that you can’t photograph different types of subject matter or in both color and black and white. You can be very diverse in how you shoot, and you can change and evolve as you go along, but you can still group these consistencies into projects that fit well together.

    5. Repetition

    Lower East Side, New York.

    The real key to improving your photography is through repetition. It is necessary to photograph frequently to keep your eyes sharp and your hand-eye coordination ready. Your instincts will improve. The more often you do it, the better you will be. Keep the rust away. Even the best photographers need to continually photograph to keep their skills up.

    The more you learn to enjoy the act of photographing, the easier it will be to walk out the door to shoot more. Photography shouldn’t be about feeling inspired or uninspired. You do not need to feel inspired to photograph if you enjoy the act of walking. Create a plan for how often you will photograph, just like the gym, and stick to it. Over time, it will become routine and your enjoyment for it will continue to grow.

    There is no need to worry about coming back with good photographs. That is going to happen, and you shouldn’t feel sad if you didn’t get anything good in a session. The good photographs will come, but if you feel frustrated too often, then that will affect how you photograph. Just enjoy the process of being out in the world doing something you love. The more you enjoy that, the better you will be.

    6. Photograph where you live

    Brooklyn Home, NYC.

    No matter where you live, whether it’s in the middle of a big city or in a small suburb, use that as a backdrop for a project. That is the area that you frequent the most, and know the best. Go to places that you think would be incredibly boring for photographs and figure out how to get a good photograph there. Don’t take things for granted. Absolutely anything can make a good and beautiful photograph. All it takes is dedication.

    7. Emotion and gesture

    Jerry Delakas, Astor Place Newsman.

    As photographers, our job is to pass on an idea or an emotion to the viewers of our work. How you do that is something for you to figure out. Search for feeling and emotion when you are shooting. Aim to create evocative photographs.

    If you are photographing people, it is important to capture them when they are portraying an emotion. This can be shown in a facial expression, what they are doing, or the gesture of their body. Sometimes, you will capture a unique looking person with no emotion or gesture and that will ruin the photograph. Other times, you will capture someone that you did not think would be a good subject, but the emotion shown on their face make the entire photograph. When you photograph people, this emotion is vital to focus on.

    8. Zone focusing

    Lower East Side, New York City

    Zone focusing is the toughest technical skill to learn in street photography, but it is very important to learn. At first, you will screw up a lot of photographs, but over time it becomes a more accurate way of obtaining sharp photographs.

    Zone focusing works particularly well in busy areas, but it can be used any time once you get good at it. I tend to zone focus 60% of the time and autofocus the rest. If your subject isn’t moving and you have time to autofocus, it is always good to do that as it will guarantee perfect focus. But the rest of the time zone focusing can be the way to go.

    What is zone focusing and how is it done?

    This strategy of zone focusing is basically just using manual focus your camera and guessing the distance to subjects. Because of this, you will need a distance meter on either your lens or in your camera. You then want to turn your camera (or lens) to manual focus. Set the focus at a certain distance away from the camera. I prefer 8-10 feet, although I will do a smaller distance if I’m in a really busy area where people are closer together. Next, figure out how far that distance is away from your camera, and now you know that everything at that distance away from you will be sharp.

    Zone focusing can be done well at very large apertures, even f/2, but it becomes much more difficult to do well. This focusing strategy works much better with apertures of f/16, f/11, and f/8 and a wide-angle lens such as 35mm. That will ensure there is a large depth of field in your image (make sure to also raise your ISO to achieve this and still keep an adequately fast shutter speed). Thus, there will be a significant area both in front and behind of the spot that you are focused on that will all be in sharp focus. This helps for situations where you miscalculate the distance when the perfect moment happens and it’s not exactly where are focused, and when you have multiple subjects at different distances that you want to be relatively sharp.

    This is why it is always good to start off zone focusing in bright sunlight with a wide-angle lens. This will allow you to shoot at f/11 or f/16 so that a lot of your image will be sharp and you will barely have to worry. Set your focus to 8 or 10 feet away and pay attention to your subjects more than your focusing. It is a very freeing feeling, and the extra time you save not having to focus will aid you in catching those spontaneous and instantaneous moments that appear before you.

    Conclusion

    If you want even more street photography tips, check out: The Ultimate Guide to Street Photography (you can even download it as a PDF).

    What things to you practice to up your street photography game? Please share your comments and images in the section below.


    If you’d like to learn more about Street Photography, then please check out my ebook The Essentials of Street Photography.

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    The post 8 Advanced Street Photography Tips to Get You to the Next Level by James Maher appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Make a Pinhole Camera with a DSLR Body Cap

    Pinhole photography is a lensless form of photography. Essentially, the pinhole camera is a lightproof box with a tiny aperture and a photosensitive material positioned inside. Light passes through the aperture and projects an inverted image onto the interior of the box where the photosensitive material is fixed. You can make a pinhole camera out of practically anything, and the results are unique and often surprising.

    digital-pinhole-13

    Analog ideas in a digital world

    Modifying your DSLR camera’s body cap to create a pinhole effect is a simple project that allows for real-time adjustments that the analog process doesn’t. As long as you can spare a body cap you can do this. The lens emulates the distinctive vignette and softness of a pinhole photograph in a fraction of the time and is great for adding an abstract or surreal quality to an image. While the digital technique isn’t the same as a classic biscuit-tin camera, your home-made lens makes for a dynamic approach to a nostalgic analog process. Plus, the unpredictability of the results adds an interesting twist to your digital practice.

    digital-pinhole-15

    You will need:

    • A DSLR camera
    • One body cap that fits the body of the camera you are going to use
    • One drill and a drill bit
    • A needle
    • Aluminum foil
    • Sticky tape
    • Blu-Tack

    Method

    Mark out the center of the body cap and make an indent by pressing the tip of the drill bit into the center mark. It’s important to make a hole in the center of the body cap or you won’t get the full effect. Drill a 1/4″ or 6.35mm hole in the center of the cap. Make sure the hole is clear of any swarf (chips) or sharp ridges left behind by the drill.

    digital-pinhole-06

    digital-pinhole-07

    Cut a small piece of aluminum foil to fit inside the edges of the cap.

    digital-pinhole-08

    Tape the foil onto the inside of the cap, keeping the sheet taut.

    digital-pinhole-10

    To create an outline of the drilled hole, gently press the foil into the body cap with your finger,

    digital-pinhole-11

    digital-pinhole-09

    Now, have a look at the outline of the drilled hole. With a small sewing needle, prick a tiny hole in the center of the outline.

    digital-pinhole-12

    The smaller the aperture, the sharper the photograph, so use the very tip of the needle to make a hole. Make sure no foil hangs over the newly pricked hole as this could compromise image quality.

    Shooting with your pinhole camera

    Before attaching the cap onto the camera body, be sure to thoroughly clean the body cap of dust and residue. Keep a bit of Blu-Tack with you to cover the hole when the camera isn’t in use.

    The tiny aperture in our pinhole lens allows significantly less light to hit the sensor than a conventional lens, so exposures must be longer to compensate. When I’m out in the field, I set my ISO to 500 so the sensor will be more sensitive to the light that does reach it, without too much digital noise in the image. I also set my camera to aperture priority (A on Nikon and Sony, and Av for Canon and Pentax) so that I can adjust the exposure easily, and the shutter speed will adjust automatically.

    In dark, indoor conditions, my shutter speed settings can go as low as 8 seconds. On bright days outdoors I photograph at 1/30 of a second but shutter speeds of up to 1/8000th of a second can be used to photograph bright subjects like the sun. At first, it will feel a bit trial-and-error, but half the fun is in the experimentation and you will quickly get a feel for it. Tripods are handy, but in-camera movement can have some neat results too, so don’t be afraid to experiment.

    digital-pinhole-01

    digital-pinhole-02

    Also due to the small aperture of the pinhole lens, dust specks are more visible than images taken with a conventional lens. Don’t panic, it’s not the sign of a dirty sensor! Use Photoshop or a similar program to remove spots via the Spot Healing Tool. While you’re at it, give the colors in your image a bit of a boost with the Curves tool to make your images really pop, or convert an image to black and white for a traditional analog feel.

    Conclusion

    This project is quick, easy and fun, but it also yields fascinating and unexpected results. Much like its analog counterpart, I found that this method requires the user to relax and enjoy the experimental process and hone in on their photographic senses, rather than pouring over the details.

    I found that my best images were the ones I took spontaneously, often having to quickly guess the appropriate exposure and shoot from the hip. Also, I was compelled by the new perspective that the combination of camera movement, long exposure, the limited field of view, and minimal technical adjustment delivered. 

    Have fun and share your results in the comments below.

    digital-pinhole-04

    This photograph of leafy branches was taken with a 2 second exposure on an overcast day. The soft focus of our modified lens and the moment of the branches lends a painterly quality to the image.

    digital-pinhole-14

     

    digital-pinhole-16

    digital-pinhole-03

    digital-pinhole-05

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    The post How to Make a Pinhole Camera with a DSLR Body Cap by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 4 Tips to Supercharge your Lightroom Workflow

    In this article, we’re going to look at four tips to help you supercharge your Lightroom workflow and post-processing. Then you can spend more time doing what you love, photography!

    The issue

    Going through several hundred pictures after a photo session can seem so daunting and time-consuming that it becomes more of a chore than an enjoyable and creative part of the photography process. It’s those late nights staring at a collection of pictures on your computer monitor, sipping the last drops from your cold mochaccino long after the whipped cream has melted away, that can suck all the fun out of photography. It can make you want to up-end your workstation, chuck your gear in the trash, and look up the price of desert island real estate so you never have to edit another picture again.

    Fortunately, most image editing programs have some type of photo management built-in to help streamline your editing. Lightroom has a set of tools that have been honed over many years of iterative development to really assist you when it comes to trimming precious time from your post-processing workflow. There are four specific techniques that can help you, and those just getting started in the field. Together they can save you time and maybe bring back the artistic spark that may have been lost over the years.

    You can help me save time in Lightroom? Tell me more!

    Can you help me save time post-processing in Lightroom? Tell me more!

    #1 – Create your own presets

    Most people know that Lightroom has a fairly extensive offering of built-in presets, and you can even buy additional sets like the ones we offer here at dPS. But as useful as those are, they might not meet your specific needs as a photographer. If you’re like me you, tend to use presets as a starting point and then tweak your images ad nauseam, but sometimes even getting to that starting point can be tricky.

    Enter the wonderful world of user-created presets! Lightroom lets you save any combination of adjustments in the Develop module as a Preset that you can apply to any photo at any time. I find this really handy when doing my initial photo imports. I like the RAW files from my Nikon D750 to have a little bit of added vim and vigor right off the bat. So upon import, I usually apply a preset I made called “Nikon RAW Import” that adjusts black, white, and shadow levels along with a few other parameters. It gives me a nice starting point for almost any image and is a great way to save time when editing.

    supercharge-lightroom-workflow-custom-presets

    How to save your own presets

    To create your own presets go to the Develop module and change the value of your sliders, adjust your tone curve, dial in your preferred level of sharpening and noise reduction, and you’re 90% finished. After you have an initial set of edits created go to the Develop menu and choose “New Preset.” Select the parameters you would like to include in the Preset and then click “Create.”

    Your Preset is now ready to go and you can apply it with one click to any image, or to a batch of images. Do so by selecting them (from the thumbnails) in the Develop module, right-click on them, and choosing “Develop Settings > User Presets > [Your Preset name].” You can also apply it to all your photos on import by going to the right-hand side of the Import screen under the “Apply During Import” option. Where is says “Develop Settings” pull that menu down and find your preset from the list.

    supercharge-lightroom-workflow-preset-import

    As a bonus, you can even share your Presets with others by navigating to the folder on your hard drive in which they are stored (“Preferences” menu > Presets > Show Lightroom Presets Folder), copying the file with your Preset data, and sharing it with anyone you choose.

    Read more here: How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets

    #2 – Sync edits across multiple photos

    Photographers are going crazy over this! You can save all sorts of time in your Lightroom workflow by using this one weird trick! I know that sounds like a cheesy click-bait title from a sidebar you might see on a used car website, but in this case, it’s really true.

    On many photo sessions you will end up with dozens of images that are relatively similar and thus can often benefit from the same types of adjustments. Let’s say you shoot a wedding and have 20 really nice images of the groomsmen getting ready and adjusting their superhero-themed vests in the church office. You could easily spend 5 or 10 minutes adjusting the white balance, black levels, highlights, color saturation, and noise reduction. You finally get one of the photos looking, as Goldilocks might say, “Juuuuust right,” and then realize you still have nine more to go. At which point you start looking up how much your 70-200mm lens might sell for on Craigslist because you know this is going to be another one of those editing sessions that involves way more late nights and cups of coffee than you had initially planned.

    supercharge-lightroom-workflow-sync-button

    How to sync your processing settings

    But wait, there’s hope! To instantly sync the edits from the first photo to all the rest which are similar, select the initial image in the filmstrip view at the bottom of the Develop panel. Then hold down the [shift] key while selecting all the rest and click the “Sync…” button in the lower-right corner of your screen.

    You can pick and choose which edits you want to sync, and with the click of a button, all the other images are instantly edited just like the first one. BAM! Time saved: infinite. You’re welcome.

    Alternatively, you could use the Copy/Paste function to copy edits from one picture to the next, but that only works with a single photo at a time. I have found the Sync option to be far more useful, you may as well.

    Using the Sync option saved my bacon on this photo shoot. I had so many pictures to edit that synchronizing the changes made things go much faster.

    Using the Sync option saved my bacon on this photo shoot. I had so many pictures to edit that synchronizing the changes made things go much faster.

    #3 – Use the White Balance Eyedropper

    When I first started out with digital photography I was the kind of person who wanted to do everything myself. Auto mode? No thank you camera, I’ll set the exposure myself. Autofocus? I don’t think so. Automobile? Not me, I prefer to walk!

    Over time, I learned to let go of some of these tendencies with one glaring exception. Setting the white balance on my RAW files in post-production, stuck with me far too long.

    Setting the proper white balance is the foundation for almost any photo editing. If you fiddle with the Temp and Tint sliders long enough you can usually get a good result. The trouble is that takes a long time, especially when working with hundreds of images. It can take a lot of trial and error, and guesswork to dial in just the right white balance. Unless you let Lightroom do most of the heavy lifting for you.

    White Balance got you down? The Eyedropper is here to help.

    White Balance got you down? The Eyedropper is here to help.

    Using the eyedropper

    Nestled quietly on the left-hand side of the Basic panel in the Develop module is a strange icon. It looks like a medieval dagger or possibly a light saber that can’t decide whether it’s meant for a Jedi or a Sith. It’s actually an eyedropper. Using on it can help you out immensely when it comes to finding the proper white balance for a RAW file.

    Click the icon and find a spot on your photo that is slightly gray (neutral). Not totally pure white mind you, but a little off-white to give Lightroom a reference point as it calculates the value of how the rest of the colors in the image should look. What it does is neutralizes any color cast or shift in that area. A half second later and voilà! Your picture is now properly white balanced, but if it doesn’t look quite right you can tweak it with the sliders. Using the eyedropper isn’t a surefire guaranteed method, but it almost always gets you right on the mark or very close to it.

    One click and...bam! Instant white balance.

    One click and…bam! Instant white balance.

    #4 – Flag/Reject when culling images

    I was just talking with a friend recently who takes a lot of pictures of his kids with his DSLR. He told me that one of the hardest things for him to do is go through his images and remove the bad ones. His solution was to simply not delete any at all.

    If this sounds like you, whether you’re professional or amateur, and you just can’t quite bring yourself to tap the [Delete] key when browsing through your photo library – Lightroom is here to help.

    You might do a family portrait session and get 20 pictures with just mom and dad, 50 that you took in burst mode with the kids sitting on their lap. Then a couple hundred from when the family invited their pet ferret to join the shoot. Some of your images would be easy to discard due to being out of focus, poorly composed, or overly pernicious polecats deciding to climb atop dad’s carefully crafted coiffure. But what about the rest? The ones that are all pretty good while also being quite similar?

    So many photos, so little time...

    So many photos, so little time…

    How to flag images in Lightroom

    As you scan through your library in Lightroom, you can use the arrow keys to move from one image to the next, and the P and X keys to mark images as keepers or rejects. Tap P (pick) on a picture to adorn it with a  white flag, and tap X to mark it with the Tiny Black Flag of Shame denoting a rejected image.

    A Flagged picture is one that you have highlighted as particularly good, while a Rejected picture is not worth your consideration. Marking an image as Rejected does not delete it so you can always go back and look at it later. But it serves as a signal to you as you are culling, that you don’t need to consider it. You can also use the filter bar at the bottom of the screen to show only those images that are Flagged, Unflagged, or Rejected by clicking on their respective icons. If you accidentally mark an image incorrectly, press the U key to remove the Flag/Rejected status.

    Filter them

    You can also use the filter bar at the bottom of the screen to show only those images that are Flagged, Unflagged, or Rejected by clicking on their respective icons. If you accidentally mark an image incorrectly, press the U (unflag) key to remove the Flag/Rejected status.

    Once you mark your images as Flagged or Rejected, use the filter icons to choose which photos to display.

    Once you mark your images as Flagged or Rejected, use the filter icons to choose which photos to display.

    Using the Flag/Rejected markings has significantly decreased my editing time, and will likely dramatically lower yours as well. In a similar fashion you can use the number keys 1-5 to mark images with one to five stars, and numbers 6-9 to label images with different colors. I find these less handy than simply using the Flag/Rejected method when doing the initial culling, but far more useful when deciding, for instance, which images are the Best of the Best and worth printing, sharing, or showing to clients.

    Over to you

    I hope these tips have been helpful. Certainly, there are many more options for helping your Lightroom workflow go a little smoother that we simply don’t have the space to cover in one article. What are your favorite tips? Please share your ideas, tricks, and shortcuts in the comments below!

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    The post 4 Tips to Supercharge your Lightroom Workflow by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review and Field Test of the New SpiderLight Holster

    Since 2010, Spider Holster has produce camera carrying systems which are intended to create a more innovative method for carrying your camera with you while working. Their carry systems are designed to offer a convenient and comfortable way to access your camera quickly while still managing to store it securely within easy reach when not in use.

    SpiderLight Holster Close Up

    Recently, Spider Holsters has launched a brand new Kickstarter campaign for the latest addition to their line of quick-draw type camera carry systems; the SpiderLight Holster. The SpiderLight is intended specifically for those shooters who carry a mirrorless or smaller SLR camera setup. Being a recent convert to a mirrorless camera system myself, I was excited to try out this newest offering from Spider and see if I would truly “Ditch the strap” in favor of this inventive way of carrying my camera while in the field.

    First Impressions of the SpiderLight Holster

    My cameras are more like extensions of myself than just pieces of metal and plastic. I love my cameras. So naturally I was, shall we say, somewhat hesitant to place their welfare in the hands of a new type of carry system instead of my heavy-duty leather camera strap. All those fears were genuinely soothed as soon as I handled the SpiderLight Holster for the first time. The product is solid, beefy, and extremely substantial. More so than I expected it to be based on the product photos from Spider Holster’s website.

    SpiderLight Holster_Plate_2.jpg

     

    The construction of the SpiderLight is all stainless steel and aluminum, subdued in a professional-looking matte finish. The holster itself is constructed of aluminum with a stainless steel insert to prevent wear with the belt clip on the back, being made from spring steel. The camera plate is crafted from heavy aluminum as well, while the Spider pin (the part that slides into the holster) is CNC machined stainless steel.

    SpiderLight Holster Plate

    SpiderLight Holster Release

    All the screws were tight and the entire mechanism moved smoothly with no burrs or imperfections appearing to be found. Even the markings on the product are etched into the metal instead of being painted onto the surface. The belt clip itself is substantial and provides a heartily robust grip to a wide range of belt widths.

    Real World Use

    The majority of my work focuses on wilderness and adventure photography with a little bit of everything else thrown into the mix. I spend lots of time in the outdoors chasing light so I was extremely curious to see how well the SpiderLight would perform during hiking and fast movements. I tested the mechanism using my main camera body, the Sony A7r Mk1 fitted with Zeiss Vario-Tessar 24-70mm F4.

    SpiderLight Holster 3

    Functionally, the SpiderLight is deceptively simple. There is a steel peg that slides into a groove on the holster in such a way that the camera hangs inverted from the holster. However, looking more closely reveals evidence of some fairly impressive engineering at work.

    A well placed two-stage locking switch secures the camera in one of two ways depending on your needs. This switch is invaluable. It locks the camera in place until the user disengages it with a subtle flick. More importantly, it can be completely disengaged to facilitate quick retrieval of your camera.

    SpiderLight Holster 4

    SpiderLight Holster 5

    I was extremely surprised at just how versatile the SpiderLight could be in practice. I walked, jogged, bent down, and did all the epic things photographers do without any real encumbrance caused by the device. The only adversity I encountered was to remember the camera was by my hip when passing through doorways. After a little practice, I completely forgot that I carried the camera at my side. It worked, for lack of a better word, beautifully.

    SpiderLight Holster 2

    SpiderLight Holster 1

    Using a tripod with the SpiderLight Holster

    The SpiderLight still allows for the attachment of your own tripod’s quick-release plate, so it does not interfere with your normal workflow if you find yourself shooting with a tripod. It’s not guaranteed that the holster will work with your specific tripod, though. Notice I have to mount mine backward. Still, the function was not hindered in any way by the Spider.

    SpiderLight Holster Tripod 1

    SpiderLight Holster Tripod 2

    One caveat

    The only possible reservation I have with the SpiderLight is that even with a lightweight camera kit (Sony A7r and 24-70mm Zeiss) the one-sided weight distribution sometimes sags the pants. I wouldn’t consider wearing the system without a sturdy belt. This wasn’t something that deterred me from using the holster but it is definitely a point of consideration. If you carry a heavier camera I would highly recommend the Spider Holster Pro.

    Final Thoughts

    The SpiderLight Holster works great for use with a lightweight kit such as mirrorless cameras and smaller DSLRs. From the perspective of a first time user, the SpiderLight performed admirably, in spite of my reservations. The overall build is sturdy enough for heavy-duty use and the complete concept works well. If you are considering the idea of trying the SpiderLight or any other of the products in Spider Holster line you won’t be disappointed.

    That being said, give yourself enough time to get to know the holster. Some will love it, some not so much. One of the biggest obstacles I faced was learning to actually trust the holster to securely carry my camera. In my case, breaking 10 years of absolute camera strap reliance takes some time. Still, you never know until you try it and it very well could become your favorite method of carrying your camera.

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    The post Review and Field Test of the New SpiderLight Holster by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • On Assignment: Alley Cat

    When Indian photographer (and Strobist reader) Nayan Khanolkar first graced the halls of Lighting 101 as a newb in 2010, he hardly could have known what just the next few years would have in store for him.

    Fast forward to 2016, when he finds himself setting up his Nikon D7000 and a few speedlights in a local alley in suburban Mumbai to capture one of the apparently free-roaming leopards that frequent the area.

    Curiosity piqued? Good. Read on…Read more »
    Strobist

  • DIY Photography Hacks and Accessories You Can Make at Home

    Everyone loves buying new gear, but not the bills that go with it. So why not try making some of your own accessories? Here are three videos that will give you some ideas for DIY photography hacks you can make at home.

    some-diy-photography-hacks-and-accessories-you-can-make-at-home

    This first one is from the guys over at COOPH (Cooperative of Photography). They present for you:

    9 Easy Tricks and Hacks to Up Your DIY Photography Game

    I won’t give it all away, you have to watch the video. But they make some pretty cool stuff including a bokeh wall, a shower curtain diffuser, and a pinhole camera.

    6 DIY Filters from Sony

    Sony brings us six ways to make DIY filters to soften and shape the light. These are fun!

    And finally, . . .

    7 Tricks everyone with a camera should know

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    The post DIY Photography Hacks and Accessories You Can Make at Home by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to do Light Painting by Rotating the Camera

    Circular lines are a great way to draw your viewer into the photo. The animation artists knew what they were doing with the Looney Tunes design. A similar effect is possible in photography through a process known as kinetic light painting. This technique involves moving the camera around in front of stationary lights, creating a pattern in your photo. If you use camera rotation you can create circular light lines.

    rotation-light-painting11

    This photograph in Hong Kong has been taken many times now, the use of rotation during the long exposure gives the photo a different aesthetic.

    How to take rotation light painting photos

    1. Scout a location which has lots of light, you are looking for tall buildings or big architectural structures.
    2. Set up the camera on a tripod, looking straight up. You can set the camera at an angle between 45 degrees to straight up. The worm’s eye view works very well for this technique.
    3. Choose a wide-angle lens, or even a fish-eye for this photo. A kit lens will work but use the widest focal length.
    4. Now compose your photograph, and focus the image. Use an angle finder or live view to help you do this.
    5. Make a mental note of the position of your camera on the tripod, if your tripod head shows the number of degrees of rotation jot this number down. The aim is to rotate the tripod head, starting and finishing in the same position.
    A bridge in Busan is photographed using a fish-eye lens in conjunction with kinetic light painting. A shallower angle was used here, perhaps around 45 degrees.

    A bridge in Busan is photographed using a fish-eye lens in conjunction with kinetic light painting. A shallower angle was used here, perhaps around 45 degrees.

    A bridge in Busan is photographed using a fish-eye lens in conjunction with kinetic light painting. A shallower angle was used here, perhaps around 45 degrees.

    The same scene without the rotation.

    The CBD area of Singapore has many locations where a worms eye view looks good. The light rotation adds an extra element to this photo.

    The CBD area of Singapore has many locations where a worm’s eye view looks good. The light rotation adds an extra element to this photo.

    1. Set the camera to expose for 30 seconds, and adjust the aperture and ISO to get the correct exposure value in the photo. The exposure value should be 0 or +1, this is because you’ll lose some of the light exposing the buildings during the light painting.
    2. Use the camera’s self-timer to start the exposure, and set it to 10 seconds.
    3. Start to rotate the camera around the axis of the tripod just before the exposure begins. The rotation has to me smooth, and last for between two and five seconds.
    4. Make sure you finish the rotation at the same position where you started by watching the degrees of rotation on your tripod.
    5. The camera then has around 25 seconds to capture the structures in your scene.
    Using a more horizontal angle allows you to paint light through the scene, again this is a unique way of capturing the iconic Singapore skyline.

    Using a more horizontal angle allows you to paint light through the scene, again this is a unique way of capturing the iconic Singapore skyline.

    If you prefer to see how this is done visually, watched the video below:

    Why use circular light painting?

    Those who like long exposure will know about light painting, though not everyone is familiar with kinetic light painting. Getting great photos requires a bit of experimentation, hence the need to try out new techniques from time to time.

    Kinetic light painting is a great way of creating dynamic photos, which have a futuristic feel. The image you take is likely to be from a worm’s eye view, in an urban setting. Therefore using a technique that adds lights and patterns to your scene can look good. You will also find that many people have already taken photos from the most popular locations. So techniques like this allow you to give your photo a different slant.

    rotation-light-painting13

    The light patterns in this photo have given this scene a lot of energy. A slightly shallower angle than straight up was used here.

    rotation-light-painting12

    This is a worm’s eye view of the same skyscrapers in Shanghai, without using any light painting.

    rotation-light-painting04

    Where can I try this technique?

    The best place to try this type of technique is near skyscrapers, though if you don’t have any near you then tall apartment buildings can work as well. Any tall architectural structure that’s lit could work for you, as long as you can get underneath it, and it shows in the frame with a wide angle lens.

    You don’t live in the city? No problem you can head to your nearest forest and use the trees in place of skyscrapers. If you use trees the shot will be daytime, and you’ll be painting the sunlight shining through the leaf canopy. There may be too much light during the day to make a long exposure; therefore consider using an ND filter to reduce the amount of light coming into the camera.

    It's possible to use this technique under, or in this case in a leaf canopy. This is the Jungle at Mulu national park, Malaysia.

    It’s possible to use this technique under, or in this case in, a leaf canopy. This is the Jungle at Mulu national park, Malaysia.

    Another photo from the super trees in Singapore, this time aiming strait up.

    Another photo from the super trees in Singapore, this time aiming straight up.

    rotation-light-painting01

    Malaysia’s Petronas twin towers, partial rotation.

    Get kinetic, and get light painting!

    It’s a great idea to experiment with photography. Trying out long exposure techniques such as this one will only improve your work. It can help you to get unique images that other people won’t have seen; therefore you’ll generate a lot more interest in your work. Having a tripod, and access to a city is really a prerequisite of a style like this one. I look forward to seeing your work. If you have any other idea’s of how you can light paint using your camera please share them in the comments section below.

    I look forward to seeing your work. If you have any other idea’s of how you can light paint using your camera please share them in the comments section below.

    Scene without rotation.

    Scene without rotation.

    The super trees found in Singapore's garden by the bay make a great subject for kinetic light painting as they have so many lights.

    The super trees found in Singapore’s garden by the bay make a great subject for kinetic light painting as they have so many lights.

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    The post How to do Light Painting by Rotating the Camera by Simon Bond appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 27 Structurally Sound Photos of Architecture

    Buildings and architecture can tell you a lot about a location. Whether it’s urban or rural, an ancient city, or modern metropolis, and a lot more. It can be full of clean elegant flowing lines, or intricate details.

    How you capture architecture in your photography depends on your style and likes. Let’s see how these 27 photographers chose to capture it in their images.

    Alexcoitus

    By alexcoitus

    Pablo Fernández

    By Pablo Fernández

    Billy Wilson

    By Billy Wilson

    David McKelvey

    By David McKelvey

    Premnath Thirumalaisamy

    By Premnath Thirumalaisamy

    Perceptions (off)

    By perceptions (off)

    Perceptions (off)

    By perceptions (off)

    Dave Graham

    By dave graham

    Perceptions (off)

    By perceptions (off)

    Jovan J

    By Jovan J

    Tony Brooks

    By Tony Brooks

    GorVlad

    By GorVlad

    Karol Franks

    By Karol Franks

    Daryl Sawatzky

    By Daryl Sawatzky

    Jonathan Gill

    By Jonathan Gill

    Mark Weston

    By Mark Weston

    Loïc Lagarde

    By Loïc Lagarde

    Henrik Johansson

    By Henrik Johansson

    Perceptions (off)

    By perceptions (off)

    Mike

    By Mike

    Thomas Hawk

    By Thomas Hawk

    Daniel Mennerich

    By Daniel Mennerich

    Hatoriz Kwansiripat

    By Hatoriz Kwansiripat

    Martin Wölfle

    By Martin Wölfle

    Sswj

    By sswj

    Nikos Niotis

    By Nikos Niotis

    Andrew Moore

    By Andrew Moore

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    The post 27 Structurally Sound Photos of Architecture by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Architecture

    Earlier I shared 27 images of architecture. Check them out and then get ready to find some of your own to shoot.

    Farrukh

    By Farrukh

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Architecture

    If you need some tips for shooting architecture, check out these articles:

    • Tips for Different Approaches to Architecture Photography
    • How to Create Stunning Architecture Photography by Painting with Light
    • 8 Quick Tips to Improve Your Photos of Architectural Details
    • The Most Under-Valued Editing Tool for Architectural Photos
    • 6 Tips to Take Your Architecture Photography to the Next Level
    Frank Friedrichs

    By Frank Friedrichs

    * Polly *

    By * Polly *

    Miroslav Petrasko

    By Miroslav Petrasko

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    Jean-François Gornet

    By Jean-François Gornet

    Marc Cornelis

    By marc cornelis

    Never House

    By Never House

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    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Architecture by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School