Category: Photography

  • Star Gazing – 18 Twinkly Images of the Celestial Sky

    Recently we introduced our new Night Photography course by dPS writer Jim Hamel. Learn more about this brand new course here, so you can take stunning night photos too!


    Photography of the night sky and the stars can be challenging but rewarding. If you do it right you can end up with images like these:

    Stars

    By Kris Williams

    By Tom Davidson

    By Paul Weeks

    By Chris Gin

    By Bureau of Land Management

    By Diana Robinson

    By Shannon Dizmang

    By Bill Dickinson

    By Jimmy

    By Howard Ignatius

    By sian monument

    By Jeff Krause

    By Michiluzzu

    By Olli Henze

    By Olli Henze

    By Julien NKS

    By Tom Davidson

    By Tralphe XY

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    The post Star Gazing – 18 Twinkly Images of the Celestial Sky by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Stars

    Star gazing and the night sky was captured by these photographers.

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Stars

    By Karl Lindsay

    To capture stars you may need to get out of the city if you live in, or near one. The sky needs to be dark, away from stray light and even a full moon. If you can do that you can capture the night sky and the stars in it.

    Here are some tips to help you:

    • Better Star Trails Photographs with StarStaX
    • Tips for Successful Star Trails Photography
    • Tips for Shooting the Milky Way
    • How to Photograph the Full Band of the Milky Way
    • How to do Milky Way Photography – A Comprehensive Tutorial
    • Photographing Starry Skies for Nocturnal Landscape Without Breaking the Bank
    • Photographing Stars Using a Kit Lens

    By Beau Rogers

    By European Southern Observatory

    By Jason Mrachina

    Share your images below:

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images on the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.


    Recently we introduced our new Night Photography course by dPS writer Jim Hamel. Learn more about this brand new course here, so you can take stunning night photos too!

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    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Stars by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    What’s the most useful camera gear you carry with you? This is the most common question asked of photographers. Many will say a tripod or perhaps a lens, but how many people would have answered a Smartphone? Well, I’m sure there were more than a few.

    The moment I saw the potential of smart devices was years ago when traveling with a friend in Japan. He had just bought an iPod touch, and everywhere we went he could show people his photos. It formed a lasting impression, and it wasn’t long before I had an iPod touch of my own. Now, of course, there are a plethora of smart devices available, and you can use your Smartphone for photography in many ways.

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    The Smartphone is great for many photography-related tasks.

    1 – Use your phone for light painting

    This is a really great and creative way for you to use your phone for photography. Using a Smartphone for light painting is the subject of this article: How to do Light Painting with a Piece of Fruit and a Cell Phone, so there is no need to elaborate on it too much here. The flashlight that comes with all phones these days can be used to both light the subject, and to light paint in the background.

    You will, of course, need a tripod, a darkened room, and a camera capable of long exposures to make this work. In addition to the flashlight, you can also use the screen for light painting as well. The simplest way of doing this is to download a flashlight app. Now you can customize your light painting almost as much as you can with the pixelstick! Once you have chosen your background color, use this to light paint a pattern in a darkened room.

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    This photo was taken with a dSLR, but all the light painting was done with an iPhone 4.

    2 – Download apps for your photography

    There are many apps available for download that will help your photography, some are obvious and some you might not have considered. Tablet devices have many of the same apps as a Smartphone, though a phone can be handier to carry around. Here is a selective list of apps you might consider downloading to help with your photography.

    1. Suncalc (iOS version) – This app shows you the direction of the sun, and how that changes through the year. This is vital information when planning a photograph (for Android users here).
    2. Easy release (iOS version) – Store your model releases on the go, this app is accepted by major stock photography sites such as Getty images (Android here).
    3. Weather underground (iOS version) – This or any of the other weather apps provides information about weather conditions by the hour. This is great to know when planning the day you wish to photograph (for Android here).
    4. Pocket light meter – Always useful to have this, especially if you’re using off-camera flash (for Android here).
    5. Simple DoF calculator – Having this information to hand on your phone is always useful (Apple only but there are other Android options available).
    6. My Tide Times (iOS version) – Anyone photographing a coastal area needs to know the times for high and low tide. This can literally be a life saver and will help you plan your time effectively (Android version here).

    3 – Never forget a location

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    This photo was taken with an iPhone. The geotagging was used to return to the location later.

    Location scouting is one of the most important things you can do as a photographer. This is a good practice to get into whether you’re a portrait or a landscape photographer. Having go-to locations is a must. It’s not always easy to remember locations, though, especially if the area is unfamiliar to you because you’re traveling. Fortunately, the map apps that come with or you download onto your Smartphone will help here. There are a couple of options for saving your locations.

    • Bookmark it – When standing at the place you want to return to simply bookmark it by dropping a pin at your current location, then leave a note for yourself about what to find there.
    • Photograph it – Your photographs taken on your Smartphone can be geotagged, so you can use this to help you both remember the place and what’s there to photograph. If you do this, remember to check that location services are turned on for your camera app.
    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    The location for this music band shoot was scouted out before (see photo above). The photo was of course inspired by a famous music band from the UK.

    4 – Share your photos in person, and on social media

    Taking your best photos with you to share with people is always smart, you never know who could be a future client. This is a great way to use your phone for photography as it often allows you build up a good rapport with other people. You should be prepared to look at their photos as well, remember most people have Smartphones these days.

    Of course, social media is a big player, and branching out of your geographical area is easier as a result. That means putting your very best photos on sites like Instagram, Facebook, and 500px. These sites are a vital part of getting yourself known as a photographer, and your Smartphone is at the center of that.

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    The use of social media sites like Facebook and Instagram to share your work is increasingly important.

    5 – No external flash, no problem!

    Photography is all about controlling the light, and a strobe or flash is a great tool for doing so. An alternative to a flash is your Smartphone in low light. This is because the flashlight on your phone can be used as a makeshift continuous studio light.

    In order do this you will probably need to bump up your iso, and shoot with a large aperture. The use of multiple Smartphones will give you even more options. How about using one of them as a rim light?

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    The flashlight on Smartphones is great for lighting your subject.

    6 – Use your phone for photography! It’s your second camera!

    Having a second camera with you is never a bad idea, and if you’re doing commercial work it’s mandatory. A second DSLR camera body is heavy to carry, though, and if you’re out taking photos for your own pleasure not really necessary. Having a camera phone with you is often all the second camera you’ll need, you can do a lot with it. Why would you use your phone for photography when you already have a DSLR with you?

    • Fun shots: The biggest reason is for those informal behind the scenes photos with your friends.
    • Behind the scenes shots: You can use it to show the setup for your main photograph taken with your DSLR.
    • Second shots: When taking a photo with your main camera on a tripod, another photo opportunity presents itself. You don’t want to move your main camera, but a Smartphone photo will work.
    • Less intimidating: In street photography, a Smartphone is smaller and less intimidating.
    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    This photo was taken with a Smartphone. It records a behind the scenes moment, while the main camera is on a tripod.

    7 – Make lists, and store them

    It’s said good photography happens when planning and spontaneity come together. There is a lot of preparation that goes into planning, and one of the best things you can do is make a list. The notes app on your Smartphone is another great way to use it for photography.

    Making your pre-shoot list gives you a clear focus for your work. The really great thing about having that list with you is you can add to it on location. There will always be potential photos you could take in the future, which you will only see when you arrive. Note the new photo ideas down, and Geotag the location if needed as well. Evernote is another great app that works on any device, syncs with your home computer and you can access from anywhere with a web browser.

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    Make use of the notes function in your phone. You can note down ideas so you don’t forget them in the future.

    8 – Use your phone . . . as a phone!

    It’s easy to forget the primary function of your techno slab is to be a phone! That’s a mighty useful thing in photography for any business related activities. It goes without saying that your website, e-mail footer, and business cards, should all have your phone contact details included. Those opportunities to shoot commercially will improve you as a photographer as well, it will push you to deliver results. Even if you don’t have a photography business a phone is still great for contacting your photography friends! Your friends are always good to meet up with,

    Even if you don’t have a photography business a phone is still great for contacting your photography friends! Your friends are always good to meet up with, collaborate, and bounce ideas off each other.

    8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography

    As stunning an idea as this may sound. You can use your phone to make phone calls!

    The Smartphone, how will you use yours for photography?

    The diversity of today’s Smartphones means they are so much more than just phones. As you can see, there are many ways you can use your phone to enhance your photography, we’d love to know how you use yours.

    Are there any other ways in which you have used your phone, that aren’t mentioned here? The phone is a great device to have with you that takes up little space and doesn’t weigh you down. The chances are you have it with you anyway, so try out some of the ideas above.

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    The post 8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography by Simon Bond appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to do Digital Blending in Photoshop to Create a Composite Photo

    Normally when talking about digital blending, people will first think of exposure blending. That is correct, but it can do more than that. There is several situations where digital blending can be very handy. Not only can it help create a better photo, it also eases you in your shooting experience. In this article, I will share how I use a digital blending in Photoshop to create a much more interesting composition.

    digital blending

    I took the photo above of Batu Cave in Malaysia. I chose to add a few pigeon photos from a series that I captured, and blended them all together into a single photo with the digital blending technique.

    Select images

    Here are the raw photos that I going to use. You can see that there are pigeons in different locations in each of the photos.

    digital blending Photoshop

    Open Photoshop

    Next with Photoshop open, I load all the photos into one place as different layers. You can rename them if you want, as I did here.

    digital blending in Photoshop

    Back up for a second: How the shots were done

    Notice there’s a “base” layer at the bottom. That image was captured with different camera settings compared to the pigeon shots. I do this because normally before capturing any additional photos such as the pigeon images, I will first take a few photos with the BEST camera settings for that situation. In this case, that was ISO 100, aperture of f/8, 1/30th of a second shutter speed.

    However, the 1/30th shutter speed was too slow to capture any photos of pigeons. So I needed a faster shutter speed which ended up with camera settings of; ISO 800, f/5, and 1/640th of a second. This allowed me to freeze the movement of the pigeons, but at the same time, it also generated more noise in the photos (ISO 800 compare with ISO 100) and a slightly more shallow depth of field (f/5 compared with f/8) resulting in a softer background.

    So the ideal scenario is to have them both together in one final image. Using the digital blending technique you can have the best image quality photo with lesser noise and better focus, and then blend in only the pigeons from later photos. The pigeons will appear to have more noise than other areas of the photo but only in very small areas and you can do a separate Noise Reduction just for the pigeons if needed.

    Shooting sequence

    Here is the shooting process in sequence, to give you a better picture:

    1. Decide on a composition.
    2. Take your photo with the best (optimal) camera settings for the scene.
    3. Without moving your composition, change the camera settings to capture anything that looks interesting to you. For example; animals, people that able to bring out the atmosphere of the place such as monk praying in a temple, or even any lifeless objects such as trains or boats, or anything else you can think of or notice in the scene.

    Photoshop steps

    Step #1 – Turn off some layers

    Back in Photoshop, you will see there is an “Eye” icon beside each layer. This means that all these layers are visible. Temporary, let’s hide all the pigeon photos first by clicking on the “Eye” icon to uncheck each layer. Leave only two visible, the Base and Pigeons 1 layers.

    digital blending

    Step #2 – Add a layer mask

    Next, select the Pigeons 1 layer and while holding down the Alt key, click on the “add layer mask” icon (circled in the red in the photo below left). You shall have a black rectangle appear at the right side of the layer, as seen in the photo below right. This is to add a reverse layer mask on your layer, the black mask means it is hiding what is currently in this layer. If you don’t hold the Alt key when you click on the icon, it will create a white mask which will reveal what is currently in the layer.

    digital blending layer mask

    Step #3 – Paint on the mask to reveal the bird

    Now we have a black mask. To blend in only the pigeon from that layer, we will need to select the Brush Tool and paint on the mask in white over the pigeon’s area. Note: A black mask means hiding and white means revealing the layer.

    digital blending Photoshop

    After selecting the Brush tool, make sure you are using a soft edged brush, and the opacity is set to about 75%. The opacity will affect how much of your painting result will be applied. Using opacity at 100%, you only need to paint once to fully reveal that particular area. However at 75 % or lesser opacity, you will need to repeat the painting few times in order to achieve the 100% effect. It is slower, but at the same time it create a smoother edges and the layer is better blended to the original image.

    digital blending brush tool

    Notice when you do the painting, the mask on the layer also reflects your painting result. Congratulations, now you have the first pigeon blended in! Let’s repeat the same process for the next layer.

    digital blending Photoshop

    Step #4 – Repeat on next layer

    By performing the same steps on the “Pigeons 2” layer, you will now have the second pigeon added. But wait, something is not right. Do you notice that the second pigeon has dark edges surrounding it? Why?

    digital blending Photoshop

    This is because even at the same camera settings, the lighting conditions may have changed during the shooting process. This image was captured when there were clouds blocking the sun and it dimmed the light in the cave. Instead of solving this by doing some really precise masking (by zooming in and brushing carefully on the edge of the pigeons, which can be a tedious process), let’s try adding a Curves adjustment layer.

    Before doing any adjustment with the curve layer, right-click on it and choose “create clipping mask”. This will make sure whatever adjustment is done here will only affect the layer below it. Now add some brightness by slightly pulling the curve up, as shown below right.

    digital blending Photoshop

    The surroundings of the second pigeon looks much better now. Other than using a Curve, you can do this on any other adjustment layers such as color balance adjustment layer to correct the tone of the particular layer, if the white balance is not equal with the background.

    digital blending Photoshop

    You can see the bird blends in much better now with the Curve applied.

    Step #5 – Complete masking on all layers

    Let’s continue with the rest of the layers. The masking results will look like the photo below once you have done the blending process.

    digital blending Photoshop

    Finally

    Here is the final output of the digital blending. Now you can perform any other post-processing adjustments from here by applying contrast, changing color balance, sharpening, or any other process that you think is necessary to enhance your photo.

    digital blending Photoshop

    I hope you have enjoyed this article, and it gives you some ideas or inspiration. If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to leave a comment below.

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    The post How to do Digital Blending in Photoshop to Create a Composite Photo by Grey Chow appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens – the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L-Series Lens

    Last August I bought the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM L-series lens for myself as a birthday gift. Since then it’s been in almost constant use as I’ve photographed horses and wildlife in Arizona, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Nevada, and Utah. I’ve made more than 14,000 images with it in the last five months! Read on to learn more about why I love this lens so much.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Salt River wild horse yearling with ferns – 5D Mark III, Canon 100-400mm @ 248mm, 1/350th, f/5.6, ISO 8000.

    Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM technical specs:

    • Focal Length: 100-400mm
    • Maximum Aperture: f/4.5-5.6, variable
    • Minimum Focusing Distance: 3.2 feet (0.98m)
    • Zoom: Rotation
    • Filter Size: 77mm
    • Weight: 3.62 pounds (1.64kg)
    • Price: $ 2,049.00 USD (at the time of writing this article)

    Compared to the Canon 200-400mm

    Compared to other lenses of similar focal length the Canon 100-400mm is a bargain, especially since there’s no sacrifice to image quality. Compare it to the Canon flagship telephoto lens, the 200-400mm f/4 which is a whopping $ 10,999. The 100-400mm lens is a moderate $ 2,049. Of course, the 100-400mm is one to two stops slower than the 200-400mm but for an $ 8,800 price reduction, I can handle the loss. I think you probably can too.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Salt River wild horse with bird, monochrome – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 400mm, 1/1000th, f/8, ISO 500.

    Those of you who know long lenses also know that the 200-400mm has a built-in 1.4x extender. Sold separately, those are about $ 500 so if you invest in one (and you should) your savings between the two lenses is now $ 8,300. In other words, you still save a small fortune by shooting with the 100-400mm lens instead of the 200-400mm.

    Lastly, the 200-400mm weighs in at almost 8 pounds (3.63 kg). By shooting with the 100-400mm, you also save your back, neck, hands, and shoulders from a lot of wear and tear. I personally can’t hand hold an 8-pound lens, which means to use the 200-400mm I’d also have to carry a heavy monopod with a gimbal head. My always-aching upper body thanked me for buying the 100-400mm instead.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Peeking Salt River wild foal – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 340mm, 1/350th, f/8, ISO 500.

    Practical size

    For a telephoto lens of its focal length, the 100-400mm is a relatively compact, hand-holdable, and practical lens. I can attach it to my Canon 7DII or Canon 5DIII camera bodies and shoot with it all day long without using a monopod or tripod. The combination with either camera weighs in at about 6 pounds (2.72 kg). Note that that’s a whole 2 pounds (907g) less than just the weight alone of the 200-400mm lens. It’s a lot of focal length, in a fairly small package.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Splashing Salt River wild stallion, monochrome – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 278mm, 1/750th, f/6.7, ISO 500.

    The 100-400mm lens also easily fits into my Kata backpack (now manufactured by Manfrotto). When I pack for an equine and wildlife photography trip, I cram the 100-400mm, 70-200mm, 24-105mm, extender, both my camera bodies, laptop, hard drives and a slew of accessories into this bag. Yes, it’s a great bag and holds a lot for its size but the point is, the 100-400mm fits in it. Larger lenses like the 200-400mm would not.

    The 100-400mm is on the left; accessories like batteries, cards, and a rocket blower fit in the same divider, tucked in at the top of the bag. 7DII is in the middle with 24-105mm attached, the open divider is for the 5DIII camera body (which I used to take the pic). 70-200mm lens is on the right; 1.4x extender fits in the same divider in its own little case, tucked in at the top of the bag.

    Same arrangement, top view.

    Bag zips!

    Features of the Mark II version

    If you’ve shot with the original 100-400mm lens, the Mark II has some great new features and I’d recommend upgrading. The original was more of a pumping action when you extended it. The Mark II extends with a twisting action. Twisting to extend is faster and easier to use than the original mechanism. There’s also a ring that you can tighten or loosen, increasing or decreasing the torque on the twisting mechanism. In other words, if you want to rapidly zoom in and out, you loosen the ring to reduce the torque. If you want to keep the lens zoomed at a specific focal length, or locked into its most compact position, you can tighten the ring and increase the torque.

    It’s a very intuitive motion. As you use the lens, you’ll find your hand easily moves from the rubber grip used to adjust the focus to the grip used to extend the focal length and to the adjustment ring.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Cumberland Island wild horse in the live oak shadows, monochrome – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 400mm, 1/350th, f/9.5, ISO 320.

    Built to last

    The Canon 100-400mm lens is also built to last. The metal, weather-sealed build is why I always invest in original, L-series Canon lenses. I trip, I fall, I drop things. It’s just part of who I am. When I invest in a lens that I plan to use all the time, it can’t be a fragile little thing that needs to be babied. It has to be able to withstand my clumsiness plus dusty, desert winds, and driving snowstorms.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Antelope Valley wild horse snuggles – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400mm lens with 1.4x III extender @ 560mm, 1/200th, f/8, ISO 200.

    Just a few weeks ago I was shooting in very snowy, wet, conditions in Nevada. When I made it back to the car, I was soaked. My camera and lens were also dripping with melting snow. I toweled everything off and had a moment of panic when the inside of the lens fogged just a tiny bit. Happily, 15 minutes later, the slight condensation dissipated. If the lens hadn’t had such excellent weather sealing, that snow storm might have ended my shoot. A lens with a cheaper build may have been out of commission for days.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Wild horse blizzard in Antelope Valley – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400 @ 400mm, 1/250th, f/9, ISO 800.

    Superfast autofocus

    This lens focuses quickly, especially on my 7DII. I rarely miss a fleeting moment. I’ve actually captured images other people in my group are surprised to see. I credit that both to the fast focusing ability and the maneuverability of the 100-400mm lens.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Antelope Valley wild horses snow globe – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400mm with 1.4x III extender @ 560mm, 1/4000th, f/8, ISO 1000.

    On occasion, I do have trouble focusing due to low contrast. Let’s face it, that happens to all of us. With this lens, I pull back a bit to 200mm or 300mm, grab the manual focus ring and dial in until I start to feel like I have an edge. Once I do, I use back-button focus to lock in sharpness. Once I’m focused, I zoom back to 400mm. The focus holds through this transition and I grab the shot. It’s quick and magical. None of the other long lenses I’ve used have quite the same intuitive feel for focusing.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Antelope Valley winter white wild stallion – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400 @ 400mm, 1/4000th, f/5.6, ISO 500.

    Flexibility

    One of my favorite aspects of this lens is its flexibility. I use all focal lengths and apertures of this lens without hesitation. For a standard 100-400mm, I attach it to my full frame 5DIII. For a little extra reach, I attach it to my crop sensor 7DII.

    On a crop sensor, the effective focal length of the 100-400mm increases to 160-640mm (1.6x). If I need even more reach, I add the Canon 1.4x Extender and the effective focal length on my 7DII increases to 224-896mm. The extender also increases the total weight by about 8 ounces, but I don’t even notice it.

    Note: For Canon crop sensor cameras, multiply the focal length by the 1.6x crop factor to determine the effective focal length. Read more here: Crop Factor Explained.

    With the Canon 1.4x Extender

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Antelope Valley band of wild horses running in the snow – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400mm with 1.4x III extender @ 560mm, 1/1000th, f/8, ISO 1000.

    I love using an extender with this lens. At 400mm, the minimum aperture is f/8, which is my preferred wildlife setting anyway. Autofocus is still blazing fast, although it is limited to the center focus point when the extender is attached. I haven’t seen a significant loss of quality or sharpness with the extender. Since I can still handhold this combination, even if there was a slight loss, I’d be more than okay with it. A slight loss of sharpness is always preferred (in my book at least) to missing a shot because you were fiddling with your tripod or just didn’t have the reach you needed.

    Note: Read more about extenders here: The Pros and Cons of Using Teleconverters (Extenders) on your DSLR.

    Stability

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Salt River stallion and son eating eel grass in the river – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm @ 400mm, f/9.5, 1/125th, ISO 320.

    My job as a photographer is to put myself in the right place at the right time, to find the beauty once I’ve put myself in that place, and to understand the light and compose my image. My gear gives me the technical boost I need to pull all that off.

    I’m going to be honest here, I’ve rarely shot with third-party lenses. I can’t compare Canon lens IS (Image Stabilization) to other brands. But, what I can tell you is that when I find myself shooting at 400mm with a 1.4 extender at a relatively slow shutter speed of 1/250th, it’s not my steady hands ensuring that my shot is in focus – it’s Canon’s. Their IS in this lens is like a super power. It is exactly the technical boost I need to make the images I want to make.

    Even works for panoramas

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Ely County Nevada Open Range, panorama – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400mm @ 100, 1/320th, f/11, ISO 250.

    I’ve even used this lens to create panoramas – handheld, no less. If I’m using the 100-400mm and I see a gorgeous vista, I set the lens to 100mm. I create a very secure hold by pressing together my elbows and locking them into my chest. Then I slowly click my way through the scene. Lightroom or Photoshop both do an amazing job of stitching and correcting perspective issues. If you’re a landscape photographer you might be horrified at this method but if you’re a wildlife photographer, it’s truly another practical tool in your photographic arsenal.

    Image quality

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Salt River wild mare silhouette at sunset – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 400mm, 1/8000th, f/11, ISO 600.

    With all this technical talk, you might be wondering why I haven’t said all that much about image quality. I’ve included over a dozen images here and I hope that speaks for itself. Details render crisply. I haven’t discovered any artifacts or unusual aberration in any of the 14,000+ images I’ve shot with this lens.

    In wildlife images, I prefer a creamy blurred background rather than a bubbly bokeh background since I find that big, bokeh circles detract from my subject. This lens renders the sort of backgrounds that I prefer.

    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Backlit Cumberland Island wild horse at sunset – Canon 5D Mark III, 100-400mm lens @ 100mm, 1/500th, f/4.5, ISO 2000.

    Shooting into the sun for a backlit image produces just the right amount of lens flair. Shooting with the sun at my back or off to my side produces just the right amount of contrast. With bright overcast skies, the lens still shapes the light beautifully.

    The Canon 100-400mm lens renders color in a very neutral way. While it’s fun that some lenses render brighter or more vivid colors, I prefer to have a more neutral starting point when I begin to edit my RAW images.

    Over to you

    In all, this is the absolute best birthday gift I’ve ever given myself. I even wish I’d bought it before I upgraded my 70-200mm.

    What about you? Have you used either the original or Mark II version of the Canon 100-400mm lens? Or do you have another favorite telephoto zoom lens? Share your feedback on your favorite lens with the dPS community in the comments below.

    Shop for the Canon 100-400mm lens here:

    • Amazon.com
    • B&H photo.com
    Favorite Lens Canon 100-400mm

    Mom!! – Canon 7D Mark II, 100-400mm lens with 1.4x III extender @ 560mm, 1/1250th, f/8 ISO 800.

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    The post dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens – the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L-Series Lens by Lara Joy Brynildssen appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Creative Exercises to Help Make You a Better Photographer

    It’s tempting to think you need a new piece of photography equipment to become more creative. While sometimes it’s true, (macro photography, for example, is much easier with a macro lens) creativity works best within restraints.

    Creative photography exercises

    So, how do you become more creative without buying more gear? Here are some ideas to take you out of your comfort zone and give you new skills to master.

    1. Find a new subject

    Every photographer has a favorite subject and others that they photograph rarely, if at all. For me, that would be any kind of still life, including food photography. The first challenge is to find a new subject. It should be something that you haven’t photographed before. Even better if it helps you learn new photography techniques.

    For example, are you a landscape photographer who has never taken photos at night? Then set yourself the challenge of taking some great photos of the night sky. You won’t need any extra gear – just the desire and drive to learn a new skill.

    Once you’ve found a new subject ask yourself the question, “How can I take this to the next level?”

    For instance, in my case (using the earlier example of food photography) it’s easy to go to a restaurant or cafe, order some food, and take a photo of it. There’s hardly any work involved as it’s the chef’s responsibility to make the dish look good, as this photo below shows.

    Creative photography exercises

    It’s a lot harder to do the same yourself at home. Preparing the dish from scratch and presenting it properly so it looks delicious is much more difficult. But you’ll learn a lot more about food photography from the process.

    2. Find themes and projects

    A theme is a connection between photos. One way to identify the themes running through your work is to pick your favorite 10-20 photos taken in the last 12 months. Examine your choices analytically. What subjects are you photographing the most? What lenses do you use most often? Are your favorite photos color, black and white, or a mixture of the two?

    You are looking for themes that help you decide what you want to photograph next. When I did this exercise I saw that two themes dominated – long exposures and street photography. This is a long exposure photograph from Spain.

    Creative photography exercises

    This is a street portrait taken at Carnival in Cadiz.

    Creative photography exercises

    As a result, this coming year I will find some new locations for long exposure photography, and more cultural events to photograph. The idea is to build a body of work around an interesting theme. The project will grow as you pursue it.

    3. Find new light

    Let’s say you are a portrait photographer who works in natural light. You like to be on location with your models at the end of the day and work during the golden hour.

    If this is you, what other types of light could you shoot in? If you normally shoot outdoors, what about an indoor location? If you like working on sunny days, how about a cloudy or rainy day?

    I lived in Wellington, New Zealand for several years. There were only two or three foggy days during that time. It was a new type of light for me – here’s one of the photos I took in the fog.

    Creative photography exercises

    You can apply this to any genre of photography. Think about the type of light you prefer to work in, and then change it around by trying something different.

    4. Use the wrong lens

    The earlier exercise of picking your best images from the previous 12 months should highlight the lenses you prefer to use for your favorite subjects. What happens if you try something different?

    The idea here is to use the wrong lens for the job, or at least a lens you’re not accustomed to using.

    Imagine, for example, that you are a photographer who only ever uses telephoto lenses to shoot portraits. What happens if you use a wide-angle lens instead? How can you make it work? Yes, the portrait will look horrible if you get too close to your model with a wide-angle lens. But what about taking a more environment approach? The model becomes part of the scene and the wide-angle lens helps you capture it. The exercise will force you to see differently and find creative ways to use unfamiliar equipment.

    But what about taking a more environmental approach? The model becomes part of the scene and the wide-angle lens helps you capture it. The exercise will force you to see differently and find creative ways to use unfamiliar equipment. I made this portrait with a 24mm lens. It’s okay, but the distortion means it probably wasn’t the best lens to use.

    Creative photography exercises

    Here’s another photo, taken with the same lens. I used it to photograph the model in a natural environment and it worked much better.

    Creative photography exercises

    Conclusion

    Hopefully, these creative exercises will help you become a better photographer. Feel free to adapt and combine them. For instance, what happens if you shoot a new subject with the wrong lens in a new type of light? You won’t know until you try it, but you’ll have fun finding out.


    If you enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about the creative side of photography then please check out my ebook Mastering Photography.

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    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners

    It’s the easiest thing in the world to take a photo. You aim and press, and you’ve captured a moment, which in time will turn into a treasured memory. But did you know that with just a little bit more effort and barely any time, you can turn those captures into something more? Something that offers the subject the respect it deserves. Something that is a pleasure to look at even before the shimmer of nostalgia is sprinkled onto it by time, and something you’ll be proud to share.

    With these five basic steps, you will notice an immediate improvement in your photos. Once you’ve started giving it just a little bit more thought, it’ll become a natural part of your photography.

    Let’s begin!

    1. Get low, get high — it’s all about perspective

    The easiest and most natural way is to photograph from the level of your own eyes. There is nothing wrong with that, but it’s just one of many viewpoints — and perspective is essential to the way we relate to a photograph.

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - perspective

    Shot at human eye level.

    Want to expand your perspective? Don’t be afraid to move, crouch, or if you’re up to it, lie down before taking your photo. Climb up on a chair even. If you’re photographing a child, get down to their eye-level and see what a difference it makes to your photo.

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - perspective

    Shot at bug level.

    2. Less space, more content

    Do you tend to point and shoot, without composing the photo? This leads to two very common outcomes. One of them being a lot of unnecessary space around the subject, the other we’ll discuss in step three below.

    Does the person you’re photographing take up only a small portion of the image? Most of the time, that’s unintentional, and it just makes it harder to enjoy the look of the subject, whether it’s a person, flower, or a sculpture.

    Try filling the frame with a face. Don’t be afraid to get closer (unless you’re photographing a venomous snake).

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - get close 5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - get close

    3. A view askew (off-centered)

    The other common result of pointing and shooting is that the subject almost always ends up being in the center of the frame. Sometimes, that works beautifully, but most of the time it’s just boring.

    If you’re photographing a person, try to place them (particularly their eyes) off-center in the image. Be aware of their movement or line of sight, and leave room for that. Meaning, place the subject to the side they’re not moving into or looking at, and put more space in front of them in the direction they’re facing.

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - off-center

    The statue is entered in the frame here and the image is very static (boring).

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners - off-center

    In this image there is more room in front of the statue in the direction the hand is pointing, leaving room for the little bird to “fly”.

    To learn more about composition, check out these composition tips.

    4. When too much is just right

    If you’ve been doing photography for a while, you’ve probably heard how important it is to control the exposure of your images correctly (in other words avoiding both too little and too much light. It’s a basic rule of photography, but let me suggest that you try breaking it.

    In my experience, too little light is more of a problem than too much, and sometimes, too much is just perfect — especially if your subject is backlit.

    Try it and see what you think!

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners

    5. Space is cheap

    Don’t worry about taking too many photos. Really! One of the great things about digital photography is that you can snap loads of shots and choose among them later for the best ones to keep. Don’t miss a moment because you hoped to capture it perfectly in one go.

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners

    5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners

    Try taking photos the way you would normally, then experiment with the steps presented above. When you look through your photos, choose the ones you like and delete the rest. Think a bit about why you like the ones you kept and why you chose to delete some. It’s a fun, easy, and cheap way to learn and to find your own style.

    Lastly

    As always, rules are meant to be broken! But remember that the more familiar you are with the rules, the more creative your breaking of them can be. If you try out any of these steps, I’d love to see your creations in the comments below!

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    The post 5 Easy Ways to Drastically Improve Your Photographs for Beginners by Hannele Luhtasela-el Showk appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Tips to Get Sharp Photos While Using a Tripod

    We all love to admire landscapes and cityscapes. The moment we witness the beauty of nature we instantly take out our camera and start clicking photos. If you are travelling with a tripod you would most probably be using it to take photos in low light conditions or to capture creative long exposure shots.

    Shooting with your camera mounted on a tripod might seem easy and a quick fix, but it is equally important to know a few things in order to capture sharp photos. Simply follow these five tips and by end of this article you may be able to figure out why you were not able to capture sharp photos using a tripod before.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 01

    1. Extend the tripod legs only when needed

    While buying a tripod we all research about the maximum height and how tall it can stand, which is completely fine. I have seen many budding photographers extending the legs of their tripod fully the moment they take it out to shoot. But, it does not mean that you always have to fully extend the legs just because your tripod allows to do so.

    As you go on extending the length of the lens, the stability and sturdiness of your tripod starts reducing. This gets worse when you are shooting landscapes or stars at a windy location. Even if you wish to extend the legs, start opening up the top (larger/thicker) most section of the legs and then move to the lower (thinner) ones. The last thing to extend should be the neck of your tripod, as it is most prone to causing shake.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 02

    2. Switch-off image stabilization while using a tripod

    It is fairly possible that you possess a lens which features image stabilization (IS or VR) and there are fair chances that you may be using your lens with IS/VR switched on. It is fine when you are shooting at a high shutter speed using a tripod, but as you slow things down, that’s when the real problem starts.

    Check your lens for the IS or VR switch.

    When you are shooting with IS/VR switched on, your lens generates a minor shake (meant to counter-act your hand movements) which ultimately reaches the camera. This minor vibration can introduce shake in your photos when shooting on a tripod, especially at slower shutter speeds.

    While shooting landscapes in the evening, star trails, light trails, or any long exposure shot, you need to slow down your shutter speed. As you cannot shoot these types of photos handheld, you will need a tripod. I would advise you to switch off the IS/VR on your lens in order to eliminate the minor shake that would have been generated otherwise.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 03

    3. Use the mirror lock-up feature on your camera

    You may be aware of the fact that there is a mirror inside your digital camera (except for mirrorless cameras) that moves to expose the image sensor when you press the shutter release button. This movement of the mirror can cause a minor shake while the camera is mounted on a tripod, thus affecting the sharpness of your photos.

    This shake caused by the mirror may not affect your photos while you are shooting at a fast shutter speed, but as you slow down the shutter speed the shake would become visible in your photos. In order to eliminate this, you can manually lock the movement of the mirror. This can easily be done by activating the mirror lock-up feature (look through your camera’s menu settings or consult the user manual).

    Tips sharp photos tripod 08

    As you activate the mirror lock-up feature on your camera, the camera will raise the mirror up and keep it there until you disable the feature. So when you press the shutter release button the mirror will not move and the chances of minor shake being generated would be eliminated.

    Mirror Lockup feature on Canon

    Mirror Lockup enabled.

    Note: This works differently on some camera models. Some the mirror stays up until you release it, on others you press the shutter button twice – first one lifts the mirror, second one takes the shot and lowers the mirror. The latter requires you to do it each time, but you can see your scene through your viewfinder between shots. In the former you cannot as the mirror blocks light coming to the eye piece.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 04

    4. Use the 2-second timer or a remote shutter release

    Do you use the shutter release button to take a photo when the camera is resting on a tripod? If you said yes, then make sure that you switch on the 2-second timer in your camera. Do not assume that if the camera is on a tripod there will be no shake no matter what. When you press the shutter button you introduce a minor shake by applying some pressure to the camera. By using the 2-second timer feature you can do away with the camera shake as you are allowing 2 seconds for the camera to absorb that minor shake before exposing the photo.

    Use a remote trigger or your 2-second timer to eliminate camera shake.

    If you want to be extra cautious and not take any chances, you can use a remote shutter release or cable. The remote allows you to go wireless and click photos without even touching the camera, thus ensuring that your images will be crisp and sharp. A wired trigger is equally useful except for the fact that there is a cable attached to the camera, otherwise it functions exactly the same as a remote.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 05

    5. Shoot at the lowest ISO possible

    The lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera’s image sensor is to light and the chance of noise and grain is lessened. While you are shooting with your camera on a tripod, likely you may be working in low light conditions or doing long exposures. You would usually shoot at high ISO in order to compensate for slow shutter speed, but that is not necessary while using a tripod.

    If you are shooting in low light conditions, using high ISO would obviously introduce noise or grain into your images. As you are already using a tripod, you do not have to worry about camera shake because of slow shutter speed. Without any second thoughts set the ISO sensitivity to the minimum value available on your camera, this will result in a sharp and grain free image.

    Tips sharp photos tripod 06

    Conclusion

    So if you have had issues getting sharp images while shooting with a tripod, I hope these tips will help you solve them. Please share your comments and thoughts below.

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    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Reasons Why You Should be Doing Night Photography

    We photographers tend to avoid night photography. Sure, there are some who seem to specialize in it, but most of us stick to daylight hours.

    night photography tips and course

    Historically, there were good reasons for this. Night photography was hard. You couldn’t see what you were doing because there were no LCD screens on camera. Every mistake cost you money in the form of film and processing. Even when digital cameras came on the scene, the low light performance in most cameras was so atrocious that it made it difficult to shoot at night.

    But now, times have changed. Obviously, with digital, you can see exactly what you are doing and take as many test shots as you like. Cameras – and the low light performance of cameras in particular – have improved drastically in the last three to five years. Post-processing tools have come a long way as well, so now you can enhance your night photos a great deal.

    night photography tips and course

    All that makes night photography much more feasible. But is it something you should do? Will it lead to great photos? Is it fun?

    The answers are; yes, yes, and yes. In this article, I will show you some of my favorite things about night photography. Once you get started, you are sure to have some of your own reasons.

    1.  Otherwise mundane places are dramatic at night

    Most photographers struggle with one thing in particular. That is how to make their photos stand out from the crowd.

    Photographing at night can help you make that happen. Let’s be clear, though, just taking any old photo at night won’t get you there. But you’ll be surprised at how many locations that appear rather mundane or drab during the day can be made to look incredibly dramatic at night.

    night photography tips and course

    In cities, for example, you will find well-lit facades, bridges, skylines, etc. The city lights add interest and give you lots to work with. During the day, these appear flat and uninteresting. At night, however, there is usually dramatic lighting added. In rural environments, you have the night sky. A clear sky in the daytime is nothing special, but at night you are treated to a sky full of stars. In either case, you can add your own light to the scene via a flash unit or light painting (bring your flashlight!).

    In addition, the night is just different than what most people normally see. That’s not to suggest that night photography is somehow a novelty, but photography during the day is much more common. People are accustomed to seeing photos during the day. They are even used to seeing dramatic sunrise and sunset photos. Night photos are a little more unusual. Take advantage of it.

    2.  You can achieve amazing effects that are impossible during the day

    Light trails, starburst effect, motion blur . . . these are all easy at night. The long shutter speeds that are often required for proper exposure in night photography can lead to really cool effects. In addition, at night you can work with lights that just aren’t on during the day.

    night photography tips and course

    At night, not only are you taking pictures that many others don’t take because they are at home, but you are also taking pictures that many photographers can’t take. You need to have more than a rudimentary understanding of exposure to get a good night shot. Long exposures are very common, so a tripod and a remote shutter release are necessities. Beyond that here are some other considerations for night photography:

    • You need to control shutter speed to get motion blur where you want it and avoid camera shake when you don’t.
    • Aperture control is needed to balance competing goals of letting enough light in, achieving a proper depth of field, achieving a starburst effect to lights, and avoiding diffraction.
    • You need to control ISO to achieve a proper exposure without an intolerable amount of noise that often goes along with night photography.

    Granted, some of these things are issues during the day as well. But they are much more of an issue at night. The lack of light is not that difficult to overcome, but you do need to know what you are doing.

    3.  The light never changes

    night photography tips and course

    As someone who loves landscape photography, it can be really frustrating to spend all your time waiting for fleeting moments of light that may or may not ever arrive. Have you ever considered what percentage of a typical day is actually good light for landscape photography? It is a tiny window! Furthermore, how many times have you awaited a sunset and aftermath that didn’t even pan out?

    With night photography, on the other hand, you aren’t waiting around for the light. Once the sun is fully set, the light never changes. It is just always dark. Streetlights, spotlights, and other artificial lights aren’t changing (so long as they are on), but rather are constant. So you have all night.

    night photography tips and course

    You can go out any night and things will be the same. Once you are out, you don’t have to hurry your exposures on account of the changing light. Of course, you may have to hurry if your subject is moving, but it won’t be on account of the changing light.

    4.  It is Not So Weather Dependent

    Night photography is also not as dependent on the weather. For example, at night, whether it is clear or cloudy, any sky in your picture will likely be black or very dark. You aren’t looking for particular cloud formations.

    night photography tips and course

    That said, certain weather is not conducive to photography whether it is day or night. Grey, misty days often don’t lead to great pictures (unless you are looking for a mysterious element). And you probably don’t want to go outside in a monsoon or storm. But for the most part the background of your shots just isn’t as weather dependent as shots taken during the day.

    5.  It fits your life

    You know how you want to get out and do more photography but life keeps getting in the way? You cannot get out during the week because you have to work. On weekends you seem to be tied up with family commitments and errands. It seems like there is never a good time to get out and do some photography.

    Most people find, however, that it is easier to get out and do photography at night than during the day. During the day, you are working. At night, most people are off work. During the day, there are family activities. At night the family is winding down and/or going to sleep. During the day, there are errands to run. At night, most stores are closed. You get the idea. There is just less going on at night, such that it always seems easier to get away and do some photography.

    night photography tips and course

    Conclusion

    Don’t forget – half of every day consists of night. In fact, in higher latitudes, the winter can feel like nothing but darkness. But by neglecting the night, you are overlooking the majority of every day. In some ways, you are missing the best part.

    Anyway, these are some of my favorite things about night photography. Once you try it, you are sure to have some of your own reasons.

    ** NOTE ** If you’d like to know more about this subject, learn more about my brand new course on night photography here, so you can take stunning night photos too!

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    Digital Photography School

  • 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats

    For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.

    If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.

    Tips photos cats 01

    1 – Patience is key

    First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun.
    Have your camera ready.

    Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.

    Tips photos cats 04

    2 – Attention seeking

    By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.

    Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.

    Tips photos cats 09

    3 – Getting down to your cat’s level

    One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.

    If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.

    Tips photos cats 08

    4 – Frame your subject

    Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.

    Tips photos cats 02

    5 – Focus on the eyes

    If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.

    If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.

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    6 – Lighting for cats

    You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.

    By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.

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    Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.

    7 – Lens choice

    A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.

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    Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.

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    Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.

    8 – Camera settings

    Manual Mode + Auto ISO

    If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.

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    By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.

    Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode

    Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).

    While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.

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    9 – Black cats, white cats

    Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.

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    Lastly, take plenty of photos

    If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!

    For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws

    Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.

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