Category: Photography

  • How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    In today’s world, everyone has a camera. It may be as simple as the camera on their phones, but they still have one. This means that millions, maybe billions of people are taking photos every day. What does that mean for you? It means you have to compete with all those to make your images stand out. You have to find a way to be different, but how? The best way is to develop a style that is uniquely yours.

    When people look at your work they instantly know it is yours, or someone trying to copy it. Your style is how you become known and how you make yourself stand apart.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    Looking north along the Harbour Esplanade.

    What does having a photographic style mean?

    Basically, that you do something to your images that make them different, whether it is done when the shot is taken or in post-processing, or maybe both. Whatever it is that you do, you want people to know straight away that the image is yours before they see the name. There should be a similarity between all your images and they look like they belong together.

    It almost goes against the grain of what humans are like and our need to conform. If you want your images to stand out you have to find a way to make them different to what everyone else is doing. Think about how you can work that is not the same. It can be about photographing the same thing, but you do it your way.

    When I was in art school we were told over and over again that nothing was original anymore. Anything that you wanted to do had already been done. It is true in most cases, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try to find a way to work that could be different.

    How do you develop a style?

    Ask any artist or photographer that has their own distinct style and they will give you a different answer. For most, there will be something that drives them to create work in a particular way.

    There are four main things to consider when developing your own unique style; why you are doing the work, the subject matter, the technical process, and post-processing. Let’s look at these individually and see some artists who work that way.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    A long exposure of a building in the Docklands.

    Why are you doing it

    This is a bit like an artist’s statement in that you know what you are trying to do with your images. Many artists work this way. They understand what they are trying to achieve and have a look or story they are trying to get.

    Australian artist/photographer Tracey Moffat looks at indigenous people and culture, and how they are understood culturally and socially. She says she is more interested in creating her own realities than dealing with reality. From the start, Moffat has an idea of what it is she is striving for.

    My own work starts with the idea of what would the world be like without humans. I find places like Pripyat, the worker’s town that was evacuated after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster in 1986, fascinating. It has not been lived in since, and there is a quietness in the images that I find quite appealing. I try to photograph places with no people in them to see if I can imitate that silence. At the same time, I like to create a world in my images that doesn’t seem quite real.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    Off the street at the entrance of a building.

    The subject matter

    Usually, someone who is developing a style, or has one, will have a certain subject matter that they stick to – it might be mountains, the night sky, or waterfalls. It will be what they want to photograph and they tend to only do that thing. While some can be that strict with themselves, most photographers have a few things they like to photograph. However, that doesn’t mean that all the images will fit within that same style.

    One of my favorite painters, Rick Amor, does a lot of architectural paintings. He creates his own realities in fictional cities, but he also likes to paint scenes from the beach and he does a lot of self-portraits. There is variety in his work, and each has its own style.

    It could be said that I like architecture the most, but really, what interests me is the hand of man. I find anything that man has built or destroyed interesting. I tend to concentrate on cities, perhaps because I live in one, and it is easy to get there to take photos. However, if you were to look at my Instagram page you would see that I also like to photograph anything with water in it. Many images do not fit my subject, but you can’t always do art images and I do like photographing other things from time to time.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    Etihad Stadium closed.

    The technical process of taking images

    The best way to get your images is knowing how to use your camera and getting the best out of it. There are photographers that rely on their cameras to give them what they want and the technical details become very important. The art of photography comes from the technical aspects.

    If you are a technical photographer then you would be looking for a specific technique that you can use that will help give all your images the same feel. What that technical aspect will be is completely up to you. There are a lot of photographers that are striving for an image that is very technical, and the creative part isn’t necessarily that important.

    You will find that many landscape and nature photographers are more technically driven. Matty Smith, an Australian underwater photographer, does his best to get everything in camera. He likes to reduce how much post-processing he has to do, therefore it is very important to him that he gets what he wants while out in the field, or under the water.

    I am not a technical photographer. I don’t let the technical aspects of photography dictate my image. That doesn’t mean I don’t know them, they just don’t mean as much to me.

    Using Post-processing

    You will find that technical photographers don’t do a lot of post-processing, while others will use it a lot. There are no rules about what you should use, but you will find that many photographers that have really distinctive styles get their look through photo editing.

    Brooke Shaden is primarily an artist who uses photography to create her own look. She does portraits in different settings and often uses costumes for them. The thing that sets her apart is her post-processing. She has a distinctive style that is hers. You will see lots of images that are similar, but they are usually people who are trying to imitate what she does.

    My work is mostly created with post-processing. I have things I like to do to images, and playing in Adobe Photoshop is as much fun to me as taking the photos. I spend far more time processing than I do taking the images. I like to play with the light to see what I can do with it and for me, an image is complete when it looks almost like a movie still, not quite real.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    La Trobe Street looking to the Bolte Bridge.

    Artists who have their own style

    There are so many photographers that have very distinctive styles and if you want to develop your own style you should look at their work to see what they do. See if you can find inspiration.

    Here is a list of photographers that have, at some stage, influenced my photography and helped me to develop my own style.

    • Joel Grimes
    • Peter Eastway – see also: The Magic of Antarctica with Special Guest Peter Eastway
    • Kristy Mitchell
    • Joel Tjintjelaar
    • Julia Anna Gospodarou
    • Art Wolfe

    There are a few for you to start with.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    The Harbour Esplanade looking down the tram tracks.

    Should you copy

    It is so easy to copy what another photographer does, especially if they teach somewhere, but should you really copy what they do? There have been photographers who have done that and everyone just says, “Oh they are copying so and so.”

    It is okay to copy what a photographer does to learn some new skills, but ultimately if you want your own style, one that is uniquely yours, then you need to work out what to do with your own images.

    I learned a lot about developing a style and working as an artist through my fine arts degree. I also watched a lot of videos on how other photographers created their work. I would pick up tips and then see if I could apply them to my own work. I experimented with what they did so I could use it, but also so it would look different.

    How to Develop a Unique Style for Your Photography

    Near the end of Collins Street.

    How to develop your own style

    Go through all the steps here and see which apply to you. Work out what you want your work to be about and how you can get a look that is you, or so others know it is yours without having to look for a name.

    Remember, that for your style to be uniquely yours, it needs to be different to what others are doing. It can be something simple, or perhaps more complicated. It won’t happen straight away and may take you quite a while to develop your own look.

    You might find that you start one thing, and then change. It is normal, and in the beginning, it will change quite a bit. It will also evolve over time. What I am doing now is quite different to what I was doing 20 years ago, or even 10 years ago. Some might say that it is has changed a lot in the last two to three years.

    As you start thinking about it, you may also find that you already have a style and are not even be aware of it, which is what happened to me. It took me a while to see what my style was, though many others could see it before I did. However, I know it now and understand it better.

    To see how you progress places like Instagram can be perfect. You see all the work there and it is easy to look at the images together and over time.

    Finally

    Just experiment and try things. You never know where it will end up. Also, don’t always listen to others, especially for approval, do your own thing and eventually others will come around to it.

    Have you developed a unique style for your photography? How did you do it? Please share your comments and thoughts below.

    leannecole-developing-your-style-44

    A long exposure over the water at Docklands.

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    Digital Photography School

  • An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Do you find yourself lacking inspiration? Without new ideas? Or just unsatisfied with your average looking images? Pablo Picasso – the famous and talented artist – once said, “Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working.” This exercise is designed to help you achieve exactly that, and awaken your creativity.

    An old English proverb says, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away”. So following this principle I came up with a routine for your photographic health. Something to keep you busy so that inspiration can find you working, as Picasso suggested.

    Step 1: Photograph an apple

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Why an apple? Well, because I found that many times the excuses that we use are linked to the idea that we don’t have an interesting subject, or a nice-looking one, or an expensive one, in other words something worthy of photographing. So don’t procrastinate at the market looking for the perfect red shiny apple that looks like one from a fairy tale, just get an apple. An apple is something we all have access to. It’s not particularly expensive, and as you will see, also very versatile.

    The first part of the exercise is to photograph your subject, in this case the apple without altering it. In other words, you are the one who is going to adapt in order to get the most out of it. For now you don’t have to worry about the technical part, so you can just leave your camera on automatic mode and shoot away. Photograph your apple from the top and from the bottom; from afar and in macro; with a wide-angle lens and a telephoto – anything you can think of.

    Once you have done this and you can’t think of any other ways to photograph the apple, push yourself to do at least two more. Yes, it may take some time to come up with them, but trust me, those will be the best ones! Why? Because photograph has been around for almost two centuries, and lately thousands of images are done everyday, so most likely the first images you can come up with, are also the same ones everybody thinks about. That is why you need to come out of your comfort zone and exercise your photographic mind and eye.

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    As you can see, the color and exposure on each one is different. This is because the camera was set on automatic mode. This way the settings adjust to the information it’s receiving. If most of the frame is covered by the warm colors of the apple it sends different information than a frame mostly covered by the white background. This is why the next step is very important.

    Step 2: Put your technique to good use

    Now that you have found the best angle for photographing your apple, you can move on to the next level – make it professional!

    When you had your camera on auto mode it made the decisions by itself. Let’s be honest, with the cameras that exist on the market today, it’s very easy to get a well-exposed photo. However, what I always say to my students is, “We learn photography not to make it good, but to make it our own.”

    If you use the automatic mode of your camera, it might come out a good photo, but it won’t be your photo, because you didn’t make any of the decisions. In this part of the exercise you need to put your photographic knowledge – no matter how much that is – to good use.

    If you know about bracketing (the process of making the same photo with different exposures) then do that.

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Underexposed

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Correctly exposed

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Overexposed

    If you know about lighting, then play with your lights. Use a direct flash to create a hard shadow for one image, then use a flash and a reflector to soften the shadow, and so on. Even if you don’t have a professional set of lighting gear you can always play with artificial light from lamps and natural light from windows. The point is to use your tools and techniques to make your photo the way you want it to be and not just another snapshot.

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake
    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Step 3: Get creative

    Now it’s all about the finishing touches. It’s always important that you are able to produce a technically good and unique photo of an object/subject. But how about getting a bit more creative? Try to tell a story, to set a mood, or to use the apple as a metaphor, anything goes! (Image basket.jpg)

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Once you have your best angle and your light and settings selected, it’s time to decide what you want to say with your photo. Do you want your photo to be yummy and inviting? Maybe cut the apple and plate it on a beautiful table. Do you want it to be about health and nutrition? Maybe add some other fruits to the set.

    If you want to push yourself a little bit more then try to tell a story, maybe make a photographic series. Think about Snow White or Adam and Eve, in both cases the apple plays an important role. Do you want it to be conceptual? Think about life and death for example using a fresh and a rotten apple. You can do anything you want just by adding some elements, add some context, and get creative!

    Today for me it was a healthy, ready-to-eat snack!

    An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake

    Conclusion and what’s next

    Great work! I hope you enjoyed your apple for today. Tomorrow maybe go with an orange, or a dog, or a self-portrait. You can apply this three steps to everything, or stay with the apples and see how far you can get, the important thing is to exercise every day.

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    The post An Apple a Day Keeps Creativity Awake by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 7 Tips for Overcoming Nerves When Doing Street Photography

    Good street photography can sometimes look deceptively easy to do yourself. All you have to do is be in the right place at the right time, get a little lucky, and bam – you have an incredible, one-of-a-kind photograph.

    Astor Place Newsman, New York Street Photography

    However, the reality is much more difficult than that, and it’s something that can surprise photographers when they try it. Suddenly, everything is moving so fast. You look around, but you don’t actually see any amazing moments. Then when you do capture something that you thought looked good, it didn’t turn out anything like you imagined.

    These are all things that take time and practice to improve at, but the hardest obstacle for people to overcome with street photography is fear. Suddenly, you’re in the middle of it all. People are looking at you. Even the people who you aren’t photographing are watching from the side. You freeze, you have trouble putting the camera to your eye, and it doesn’t feel as fun as it should because you are so nervous! Fear stops too many people before they start, and this is a shame because it’s a very enjoyable type of photography.

    Here are some tips to help you get over those street photography fears so you can enjoy yourself out there.

    1. Think about what you will say if someone stops you

    SoHo, New York Street Photography

    The thing that will make you the most comfortable out there is knowing that you have a plan if someone stops you after you have taken their photograph. This rarely ever happens to me, but when it does, I feel confident in how I can handle myself.

    First of all, if someone notices me, I always smile. Acting confident and like you’re not doing anything wrong will make the subject more comfortable. If you’re sneaky and look sheepish, they will see that you look guilty and be much more inquisitive.

    Then if someone asks you why you took their photograph, tell them the truth. I say that I am a photographer doing a cultural project on the people and streets of New York, and I thought they looked fabulous. Flattery will help you get out of most situations. Or tell them you are a student. Offer to email them the photograph. Explain that you find people and fashion and things of that nature just as interesting as the buildings. If the person then continues to seem uncomfortable or angry, apologize and say that you didn’t mean to make them uncomfortable and you are happy to delete the photograph. That will diffuse most situations.

    2. Choose your subjects wisely

    SoHo, New York Street Photography

    If someone looks angry, stressed, scary, or in any way that makes you uncomfortable, you are NOT to photograph them. More subjects will come soon after. By picking the right people, you will make things much easier for yourself, and that will also make you feel more comfortable.

    3. Go to a busy place and let people come to you

    Canal Street, New York Street Photography

    This is one of my favorite tips. While street photography can and should be done in areas without many people, one of the best things you can do is to photograph where a lot is going on. Go to busy street corners, markets, or festivals. Go at times when things are happening. Follow the action.

    This will immediately ease your fears somewhat. In those areas, people will be too busy to notice you and will be used to people with cameras. It will give you time to practice and to get comfortable with the act of shooting street photography.

    Take this a step further, by picking a spot and letting things happen around you. You do not always have to walk around to search for a photograph. By staying in the same location, you will be quicker to notice moments as they occur, you will already be in position, and people will be entering your personal space instead of you entering theirs. This will help to make you feel a lot more comfortable.

    4. Try some street portraiture

    Skater, Street Portrait, New York Street Photography

    Start out the day with some street portraits. Stop someone, tell them they look great and that you’re doing a project on people in the area, and ask if you can take a few quick photographs. Some photographers will then just capture a couple quick photographs, mumble a thank you, and run off, but I want you to interact with them.

    Make conversation as you photograph and capture them from a couple angles. Compliment them and make their day. Doing this will make both you and the subject happier, and it will help remove the creepy feeling that can happen when shooting street photography.

    5. Learn to be candid

    No matter how comfortable you become shooting in these environments, it is important to learn to act candidly. If everyone stops you to ask if you took their photograph or if everyone notices you right away to ruin the moment, you will not get anywhere. Learning to act candidly will make you feel much more comfortable.

    SoHo, New York Street Photography

    The camera snap

    The most important tip, probably in this whole article, is what I call the camera snap. As photographers, one of our instincts is to slightly take the camera away from our eye right after we take a picture. Everyone does this, and this is how people notice that you have taken their photograph – it’s the main thing that tips them off. So instead, take the photograph and keep the camera to your eye as they pass completely by. This will make them think that you are just photographing the background and that they got in your way.

    This way of shooting works fantastically well in busy areas, but in areas with fewer people, it can help to change it up a bit. Instead of aiming the camera at a subject right away, this time, aim the camera at a building above or a scene to the side of them. Then at the last second, act like you took the photograph and are moving your camera down, take the picture of them, and move on.

    It cannot hurt to play a role as well. Some of the best street photographers are fantastic actors; they have a way of looking the dumbest with their cameras. They furrow their brow and act like they don’t know how to use the camera at all, are testing it out, and don’t even notice that the person is right where they are photographing. Some even act like tourists. It’s hilarious and it works.

    6. Don’t shoot from the hip

    SoHo, New York Street Photography

    Shooting from the hip is an important practice in street photography. I do it about 30-40% of the time, but I do it with my camera right below my eyes, looking like I’m standing there waiting for something to happen instead of putting the camera very low down. If you are just starting out with street photography, particularly with a large DSLR and zoom lens, this will be your first instinct.

    It can be important to learn to shoot from the hip, particularly for the moments that you really want to keep candid, but I suggest staying away from it at first. It can become too much of a crutch and it can make you more uncomfortable in the long-run as you will always feel like you are sneaking around. You need to learn to put the camera to your eye at first to both get good photographs and to improve your confidence. Force yourself to shoot with your camera to your eye as much as possible, and as you get more experienced, then you can experiment with shooting from the hip some of the time.

    7. Repetition

    5th Avenue, New York Street Photography

    Nothing will get you more comfortable out there than shooting frequently. Even if it is only ten minutes here or there, try to not go too long without photographing. These skills are like any other in that you will quickly get rusty, and this will make you feel more self-conscious. Turn your photography into a routine, even if it is only once every two weeks, and you will become much better.

    Now that you’ve read all of this, just get out there and go for it. Put a smile on your face, enjoy the walk, and have fun with it!

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    The post 7 Tips for Overcoming Nerves When Doing Street Photography by James Maher appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Overview of the Vanguard VEO 235AB Aluminum Travel Tripod

    If you’re constantly on the go like me, carrying a tripod is always an exercise in endurance and determination. As primarily a wilderness and adventure shooter, I’m constantly working from a backpack where space and weight come at a premium. Lately, I’ve been looking for ways to carry less weight but certainly not at the cost of sacrificing the quality of my gear, and not spending a small fortune in the process.

    When it came time to downsize my tripod, my research pointed me to this – the Vanguard VEO 235AB Aluminum Travel Tripod with TBH-50 Ball Head. It looked great on paper, small, light, and more than capable of supporting my mirrorless (Sony A7R) camera setup. Being a long-time user of more robust tripods, I was skeptical when the Vanguard arrived due to its conspicuously small size.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB tripod

    Here are the specifics of the Vanguard 235AB Tripod:

    Vanguard VEO 235AB tripod specs

    First Impressions

    Right out of the box the tripod was delightfully attractive. The look of the entire contraption was clean and professional. The color is a nice matte black with blaze orange accents. Simply put, the tripod has great visual appeal if that is important to you. Also included was a fairly nice storage and travel bag, which was of surprisingly good quality as well.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB wide

    Load capacity and sturdiness

    The Vanguard is capable of supporting just over 13 pounds (13.3 or 6kg). All the flip locks clamp smoothly, and lock firmly into place to secure the leg sections.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB folded

    Vanguard VEO 235AB clamps

    Ball head

    The ball head included with the tripod looks small but locks in place extremely securely. The base plate incorporates a safety pin so that even if the clamp loosens the camera will not slide off the tripod laterally.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB ballhead

    Vanguard VEO 235AB ballhead 2

    Maximum and minimum height

    The overall height with the center column extended is nearly 57 inches (145 cm), which works great for the majority of scenes with minimal stooping over, even at my 6’4” height. Also, the ball head features a bullseye-style bubble level for aid with levelling the camera.

    The folks at Vanguard have even included an additional “low angle” angle adapter which allows you to achieve very low perspective shots close to the ground. It should also be noted that the included ball head can be replaced with another of your own choosing if you see fit.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB 2

    The tripod folds down small enough to fit into carry-on luggage and the weight makes it feel extremely portable. Even without practice the set up time for the Vanguard VEO 235AB is lightning fast. The center column swings up into position and is variable in height. This is an interesting design concept which helps make the entire package very compact while maintaining ease of set up.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB base

    The legs

    The legs of the tripod itself are able to be positioned at independent angles depending on the situation by depressing the lock buttons for each leg.

    Vanguard VEo 235AB 3

    When locked, the legs feel extremely sturdy. One of the three legs is equipped with a rubber wrap to aid gripping during wet or exceedingly cold conditions. To top it off, the rubber feet of the tripod retract to reveal traction spikes should you really find yourself shooting in difficult terrain.

    Vanguard VEO 235AB feet

    Some final thoughts

    So far I haven’t found any situation where the tripod would not suffice for a multitude of uses. Outdoor photographers will love its compact size for hiking, and photographers on the go will dig its stashability.

    The 235AB appears to be a fantastic little workhorse that strikes a keen balance between strength, style, and portability. I’m excited to put it to work out in the field and judging by the first impressions it shouldn’t disappoint.

    At under $ 150 USD the Vanguard VEO 235AB is one of the better bargains to be had in the lightweight tripod market. Users of smaller DSLRs or mirrorless camera systems should strongly consider the Vanguard VEO 235AB as an option when searching for a sturdy option for a versatile, lightweight travel tripod.

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    The post Overview of the Vanguard VEO 235AB Aluminum Travel Tripod by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Overview and Impressions of the new Macphun Luminar Software

    Macphun Luminar

    An image edited using Macphun Luminar image editing software.

    At some point, after you pick up your first digital camera, the question of image editing arises. For years, the leader has been Adobe with their package that includes Lightroom and Photoshop. However, lately, other software companies have been dipping their toes in the waters of image editing applications. One of the latest is MacPhun, makers of the Macphun Creative Kit.  Their entry into image editing, available for Mac OS X based computers only, is called Macphun Luminar.

    Luminar is a standalone application for nondestructive RAW processing and image editing, but can also be used as a plugin for Lightroom, Photoshop, Aperture, and Apple Photos. The application window and tools available are identical whether it runs as a standalone or as a plugin.

    Overview

    When opening Luminar, you’ll be presented with a window that gives you two options; Load Image or Batch Processing.

    Luminar opening screen

    Macphun Luminar workspace

    Luminar’s workspace is clean and easy to navigate.

    Selecting Batch Processing allows you to drag and drop images, or load them from folders on your computer. You’ll then be prompted to choose certain settings such as a preset to apply (more on the presets later), as well as where you would like the images saved, what type of file to save as, resizing, and file naming. In addition to the opening dialog, Batch Processing is also available from the File menu within the application.

    I’m a little disappointed that I can’t see a preview of the preset I’m applying to the batch, but overall, the process is easy to understand and runs pretty efficiently.  I processed a batch of 24 RAW images in just under three minutes on my late 2013 iMac.

    The other option you see when starting up Luminar is “Load Image”. This allows you to open a single file and edit it to your liking, and then export it in any number of ways. I kind of wish Luminar had a file browser to allow me to view thumbnails, rather than just the “Load Image” dialog.

    Workspaces

    Macphun Luminar Portrait Workspace

    You can change the workspace according to your subject matter. For instance, selecting Portrait brings up a different set of tools than does Landscape, or Street.

    You can customize the application by using one of the workspaces available, which automatically brings up a set of filters appropriate for the subject matter.  The preset workspaces include Black and White, Landscape, Street, and Portrait. You can also create your own workspace based on the filters you find yourself using the most (see above).

    Editing window

    Macphun Luminar

    When selecting Add Filter, this window listing available filters appears, allowing you to select from dozens of filters to apply to your image.

    Once you have a file opened, you’ll be presented with the editing screen. The main window will show your image. Across the bottom, you’ll see the Preset Panel. This shows various presets that can be applied to your image. In addition to the default presets, Macphun has a selection of preset packs available for download on their website (some are free, some are for purchase). The presets are separated into various workspaces, including Outdoors, Portrait, Street, Dramatic, Basic, and Travel.

    Luminar sliders

    On the right side of the screen, you’re presented with the layers panel which shows the different layers you have in your current image. Similar to Photoshop, layers can use different blending modes, and the opacity of each one can be adjusted to give you exactly the look you want. A Transform tool is also available to work with the layers if needed.

    Beneath the Layers palette, you’ll find the sliders to adjust the filters currently in use. Each preset uses various filters that can be adjusted using these sliders. You can also create your own look simply by adding the filter or filters of your choice from over 40 available. In addition, each filter has a separate blend mode that can be changed to adjust the look as well.

    Macphun Luminar

    A RAW image before processing with Luminar on the left, and after on the right.

    Toolbars and palettes

    On the right edge of the screen sits a toolbar, which houses various tools including Move, Masking Brush, Gradient Mask, Radial Mask, Transform, Clone Stamp, Eraser, Denoise, and Crop.

    Any of the panels and palettes within Luminar can be shown or hidden with a click of the mouse, making it easy to customize the workspace to your liking.

    Luminar-Export-Dialog

    The Luminar Export Dialog

    Once you’re done making your edits, Luminar offers an easy interface to share your images to various photo sharing and social media sites, including Facebook, Twitter, 500px, Smugmug, Flickr, Messages, and Mail.

    Luminar sharing options.

    Macphun Luminar portrait preset

    A portrait edited using the Black and White Fashion Magazine preset under the Portrait presets in Luminar.

    Pros of Luminar

    Macphun’s Luminar, as a standalone application, offers an excellent option for those who don’t want to get involved in a subscription service. Luminar is currently available from Macphun for $ 69, making it an easy way to get started editing RAW photos with a powerful image editor. For those already using Photoshop or Lightroom for their editing, Luminar works as a plugin that provides all of the powerful editing options of the standalone.

    Luminar is easy to use, with a multitude of sliders that are pretty self-explanatory and provide for fine control over image effects. In a very short amount of time, you can be editing your RAW files and exporting finished images in a variety of formats, including TIFF, JPEG, PNG, GIF and PSD. If you’re familiar with MacPhun’s interface in the Creative Kit, Luminar will be easy to figure out.

    I found the quality of the images edited in Luminar to be excellent, but as in Creative Kit, I thought some of the presets needed to be dialed back a bit for the best results. The variety of effects and options available really lets you customize the look of your images as well. I found some presets to be excellent starting points, but then by adding another filter or two, I was able to get exactly the style I wanted for my image.

    Macphun Luminar

    An image edited using MacPhun Luminar.

    Before/after

    Layered files

    As of a recent update to the program, there is now the ability to save images as .lmnr files, which will save the layers and work done on an image, so you can come back to it later. A nice feature similar to saving as a layered PSD file. 

    Cons of Luminar

    As someone who’s used Photoshop for years, I found that some of the tools, such as the clone stamp, worked differently than I expected. This is easily overcome as familiarity with Luminar grows, but it took a little while before I got results I liked.

    One other puzzling question is, why isn’t there native support for Macphun’s Creative Kit? MacPhun indicates in their product FAQ that there will be support for plugins eventually, but it would seem to make sense to have that powerful suite of plugins available from Day 1. Once support for plugins is available, Luminar becomes an even better value, in my opinion.

    Macphun Luminar

    Landscape image edited using Macphun Luminar.

    Luminar, while an excellent photo editor and RAW processor, lacks certain tools available in Photoshop, such as the ability to output to CMYK, have multiple print layout options, or add text to an image. While many will never have a need to do any of that, it is a distinction that should be made, especially for those who like to add a watermark to their images being shared online.

    Finally, Luminar lacks an asset management component like Lightroom, so for those who like to create catalogs, collections, and add keywords and descriptions to images, you’ll still need to use Lightroom while using Luminar as a plugin.

    Macphun Luminar

    Edited and exported using Macphun Luminar.

    Final Verdict

    Macphun Luminar has a simple to understand interface and a lot of great features that make it an excellent RAW processing application. Its flexibility to work as either a standalone application or a plugin for Photoshop, Lightroom, and other photo applications means that Luminar will be easy to integrate into your current workflow. My first thought, however, is that its primary market is people who want a powerful photo editor that is simpler to use than Photoshop, without paying a subscription fee every month.

    Luminar offers some excellent editing tools, and with over 50 presets, it’s easy to get started towards the look you want. The interface is easy to understand, with self-explanatory sliders clearly marked to allow you to adjust the effect to your liking. If you’re just getting started with processing RAW files and photo editing in general, Luminar is a great choice.

    Luminar is available from Macphun’s website for $ 69, for Apple computers only (currently, supposedly a PC version is coming in the future tbd). Here are a couple more before and after images of what you can do with Luminar. Have you tried it? What are your thoughts?

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    Digital Photography School

  • 6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    In this article I am going to share with you six tips that I have found to produce amazing long exposure night photographs. I have learned the hard way by making every mistake possible and through that finding what really does work.

    So here are the 6 tips to make your long exposure photographs at night:

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposures at Night

    Tip #1: Try to avoid using a Neutral Density filter

    On this photo (below) I did a 25 second exposure. That is quite a long exposure and to help prevent it from blowing out, I took the photo right at the end of sunset. There was less light, so that I didn’t have to put an ND Filter on.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposures at Night

    If you put an ND filter on it is going to give you a color cast during long exposures. Yes you can use a polarizer, but avoid Neutral Density filters. Shoot when the sun is going down and keep your camera at a low ISO like 100 or 200. Don’t get me wrong, I love ND filters but not at night.

    Tip #2: The best time for long exposures is 25 seconds

    I know that’s a bold statement. Not as bold as stating that French food is the best in the world, but still a bold statement. Here is why I recommend this; I’ve found that when I shoot at 25 seconds it makes the water silky and the clouds stretchy and this has a beautiful look that sells well. Obviously it’s also an artistic choice, but as a photographer you likely want people to buy your photos. The best indicator that people like your photos is that they buy them.

    Here is an example:

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposures at Night

    First I started with a 6 second exposure.

    Now, in taking the photo I exposed the image for the highlights. So when you open up the shadows, bring down the highlights, and boost the exposure a little bit like so:

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    I do have all the details of the photo, but the only problem is that the clouds were not moving and the water is not silky.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    So I went ahead and put the exposure time to 25 seconds. Now it does seem like the highlights in the photos are a little burnt, but I have found that on city lights it doesn’t really matter that much because it still works great on a print.

    To conclude; 25 seconds is the best long exposure, you don’t even need a remote, you just need to put your camera on the 2-second timer and go into manual shooting mode, use a low ISO, and an aperture that is going to work like f/7 or f/8.

    If your photo is too bright you can adjust the aperture to f/14 and if it is too dark you can even put your aperture to f/4. Just make sure you check your focus to ensure the background is sharp.

    Tip #3: Try different exposures of the same scene

    Even though I said that 25 seconds exposure is the best, it’s always good to shoot different exposures because this may be different for your situation. For example, I thought that this first image was my go-to photo.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    But in the end the one that I am going to retouch and going to send to the gallery is this one.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    So you already have your camera setup and on a tripod. Go ahead and try 8 seconds, 15 seconds, 25 seconds all without touching the tripod and then when you are evaluating your photos for retouching you will have several options.

    Tip #4: Shoot towards the sun

    When you are doing a long exposure without an ND filter (so as to avoid the color cast, tip #1), a good thing to do is to shoot toward the sun. When it is behind the horizon line it will always give you a nice sky with lots of color and gradations.

    You can see on this photo that the sun is setting on the left.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    And as I turn the camera more away from the sun and back towards the city you get this view.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    You can see that we get less and less details in the sky. But if you shoot where the sun sets you will always have great details even after sunset, and it is the right time for these type of photos.

    Tip #5: Make sure you have water and the sky in your photo

    Those are two important things for a long exposure which help to really elevate your photos into what I like to call miracle photos.

    Tip #6: Try to get the clouds coming towards you

    You can study meteorological information to get a sense of which direction the clouds are moving and try to position your shot accordingly. There are even a few apps which great for this.

    As I said, this is not always easy but I got lucky on this one. The clouds are going to be stretchy and create leading lines and that help make this photo really interesting.

    6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

    I hope this helped you and you will be able to capture beautiful places at the perfect time. Please share your long exposure night photos in the comments below.

    ** NOTE ** If you’d like to know more about this subject, learn more about my brand new course on night photography here, so you can take stunning night photos too!

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    The post 6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs by Serge Ramelli appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • 5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer’s Eye in Your Images

    As photographers, it’s easy for us to make conscious composition choices that allow us to balance our photographs or to create harmony within them. It’s is more difficult however to try and lead viewers through your photographs. We rarely consider how to influence the viewers of our photographs. When composing images, we don’t think about the different elements in our images and the order by which we want viewers to see those elements.

    This is a common tactic in classic painting, but not used readily by photographers. The reality is it’s hard to influence viewers and to dictate the ways in which they view our photographs.

    The lines of the creek lead the viewer’s eye through and into the image.

    In many cases, the subject matter we are shooting just happens too fast for us to consciously compose images with the intention of leading the viewer through our photographs. It’s much easier to lead the eye through images we construct like still life or landscape photos. In the case of sports photography, this would only happen by sheer luck or happy accident. But when you have the opportunity, think about using techniques that lead viewers to specific parts of your images.

    #1 – Use a brightness gradient

    One of my favorite techniques for leading the eye is to use a brightness gradient. The human eye is drawn to the brighter elements, and if you position an area of brightness within your image, the eye will be drawn to that location.

    It is important, however, to remember that the key to this technique is to use a gradient of brightness. Small bright areas amidst darker tones will not achieve the same kind of effect. The idea is to make the progression of highlights subtle, like a path through your image. Of course, this technique will not be possible in all situations but if it’s available considering using this method.

    5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer's Eye in Your Images

    Shot from a kayak during sunrise I wasn’t intending to shoot this image with a brightness gradient. Instead, it’s a happy accident.

    #2 – Linear perspective

    When using a wide angle lens, you can consciously create linear perspective within images. This technique might be one of the more easily attainable methods of leading the eye. The wide angle lens will exaggerate lines and lead the eye fairly directly through the photograph. You can compose your photographs in such a way that buildings or other architectural features draw viewers through your photograph.

    5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer's Eye in Your Images

    The line of lights and the line of buildings lead the eye through the photo. The viewer should be stopped by the bright spots of light within the image but then continue on through the rest of the photograph.

    I’ve added some arrows to this image so you can see how the lines of the pier point the viewer into the photograph. The teenager in the image is a second way of directing the eye as he stops to view the sunset.

     

    #3 – Use shafts of light

    Using shafts of light is another technique for pointing viewers in the right direction. The conditions are very specific, and shafts of light are not always readily available, but they can be a useful tool for pointing out specific directions or objects within a photograph.

    The photograph below was taken by my son. His plan when composing was to have the ray of light point towards the people. I must admit I didn’t think of composing in such a manner and when I asked him later he said it was “the natural choice”. Since that time I’ve made conscious decisions to look for and incorporate rays of light into my images.

    5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer's Eye in Your Images

    There’s a fairly strong lens flare in this image but my son made a conscious choice in how he composed his photograph and I’m proud of him for his decisions.

    #4 – Use a blur gradient

    Using a blur gradient (shallow depth of field) is another method of leading the eye. I will admit that I don’t use this technique much. I even struggled to find images to use as examples for the article. Part of my reasoning is that I hope I will now be forced to experiment more with this technique.

    Using a focus gradient can lead the eye to the important elements of the photograph. Setting up a shot in which the foreground is blurred and slowly recedes through the image to the point of sharp focus will draw viewers to specific objects within the frame.

    I used a fairly large aperture here and while the blur gradient isn’t as obvious it is still present in the image.

    #5 – Use more than one technique

    You can also combine these techniques to help influence eye movement throughout your images. In these two images, the eye moves through the image the light gradient is the most obvious technique but lines of architecture within the building help to draw the viewer down the tunnel. The lights hanging at the top of the image are an obvious line that directs the eye.

    Similarly, this image of the couple walking through the image adds to the movement within the photograph. The lines of the path reinforce the direction the viewer should take within the image.

    Shot at a provincial park this image combines elements like linear perspective and vectors.

    Conclusion

    Leading the eye through a photograph is not an exact science. You can’t force viewers to follow the path you set for them. Each person approaches the artwork in different ways. If your use some of the techniques outlined here, it will help you to create compelling compositions. The more thought and purpose we put into creating our images the better they will be. While there may not always be time to use these techniques, it’s always handy to keep them in the back of your mind and use them when the time is right.

    The more thought and purpose you put into creating your images the better they will be. While there may not always be time to use these techniques, it’s handy to keep them in the back of your mind and use them when the time is right.

    The eye-leading techniques used in this image are a little harder to spot. I used the lines of the barrels and rays of light to direct the viewer’s eye into the center of the image.

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    The post 5 Simple Techniques for Leading the Viewer’s Eye in Your Images by Erin Fitzgibbon appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Photographing Weddings With Natural and Available Light

    As photographers, light is our raw material. It doesn’t really matter what we are trying to say or capture in an image – if we don’t have light we don’t have a picture! Light has to be the prime consideration and the quality, direction, color temperature, source, quantity (as well as a host of other variable factors) of the light Continue Reading

    The post Photographing Weddings With Natural and Available Light appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    I can still hear the words I was told when I bought my first DSLR ringing in my ears just as clearly as if I heard them this morning. “You have to learn to shoot in manual mode.” When I started to get serious about photography I had no idea what aperture, shutter, or ISO meant, and thought P meant Professional. I didn’t know what I was doing at all and because everyone seemed to say so, I dove right into YouTube tutorials and online articles about how to get away from the dreaded Auto Mode setting on my camera. After all, no serious photographer would be caught dead using Automatic…right?

    The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    Auto Mode – don’t knock it until you try it. And even then, maybe give it a second chance.

    The truth, like most things in life, isn’t so black and white. Auto mode, while often derided by online commenters and popular YouTube photographers, is not the scourge upon modern photography that some people claim. While it might not be the best way to get exactly the picture you want, and learning to shoot in manual is, of course, a rewarding and hugely beneficial way to increase your skills as a photographer, there is nothing inherently wrong with using Auto.

    In fact, there are some clear benefits to using Auto. So, I’d like to explore some of its advantages and offer a few reasons why you shouldn’t feel so bad if you set your expensive DSLR camera on that familiar green Auto setting.

    It just works – usually

    It is certainly true that you have a much better idea of the picture you are trying to take than your camera does. However, it’s also true that you may not know how to (or care) make your camera do what you want it to do, in order to get the picture you want. Photographers sometimes talk about

    use-auto-mode-gum-ball

    Photographers sometimes talk about the decisive moment, which was a term used by Henri Cartier-Bresson to describe that instant in which all the elements within the frame come together to form the perfect photographic opportunity. Unfortunately, many amateur photographers will wistfully watch that moment pass by because they are fiddling with aperture controls and thinking about shutter speeds.

    I’m all for learning more about how to use your camera (I write for DPS and that’s what we do!) but sometimes it’s nice to just put your camera in Auto mode and let it do all the grunt work for you.

    The trade-off

    Modern cameras are filled to the brim with all sorts of high-tech enhancements compared to their counterparts from days gone by, and along with this has been a string of steady improvements to their built-in Auto mode. For the most part, shooting in Auto will give you a well-exposed picture that will probably suit your needs. The downside is that your camera might make different choices than you prefer when it comes to selecting an aperture, shutter speed, or ISO value, and if there is not enough light you will likely see the pop-up flash rear its ugly head.

    use-auto-mode-food

    This is when you may start thinking about learning to use some of the other modes on your camera. But, if you don’t mind the creative decisions your camera makes or just don’t feel like learning the complexities of the Exposure Triangle, then, by all means, go ahead and shoot in Auto Mude. After all, it’s about the picture, and if you’re happy with the results then why not keep using it?

    Auto lets you focus on other things too

    When you take your camera out to record a moment, memory, or special event, there is usually a lot going on around you and that little black box in your hand. There may be people, kids, music, animals, wind, rain, or a combination of all that, plus much more.

    An experienced photographer will know exactly how to set her camera to get the kind of pictures she is looking for and will know just what settings to tweak and change in order to get the right images. However, even experienced photographers can get a bit overwhelmed when there is so much going on, and for casual photographers, it is even worse. It’s times like these when Auto mode can be your best friend. You should not only not feel embarrassed about using it, but my advice is to openly embrace that comfortable little green setting.

    The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    Missing the shot due to not knowing the settings

    One of the worst times for a photographer is that sinking feeling when you realize you just missed the shot. Even photographic veterans have been known to leave the lens cap on from time to time. If you are just getting started with photography or trying to improve your skills, then fiddling with aperture controls or trying to figure out the right metering mode for a particular scene is enough to make you want to toss your camera out the window in frustration. Many a photographer has missed the opportunity to take a picture because they were wrestling with camera settings and trying to get things just right before clicking the shutter.

    By contrast, using Auto can free you up to take pictures while also taking in the rest of the experience around you. Instead of worrying about the ISO, trying to figure out what shutter speed to use, or wondering if you need to use the flash, Auto mode will just take care of these for you. The trade-off is that the results might not be exactly what you wanted (maybe you were going for a shallower depth of field, or would have preferred to not use the flash). But at least you’ll walk away with some pictures while also having the freedom to talk to other people, take in the scene, and be present in the moment. That is unless you accidentally leave your lens cap on!

    The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    Auto can help you understand your camera

    One of the biggest barriers to entry for people who want to learn more about cameras and photography is all the technical details inherent in the art form. Understanding the basic elements of exposure is enough to make your head swim. On top of that, there are all sorts of other considerations like white balance, focal length, megapixels, etc. The list goes on and it often seems like a cruel and unforgiving proposition that is more alienating than inviting.

    Fortunately shooting in Auto mode is a great way to dip your toes into the more complex aspects of photography, provided you don’t mind doing a little bit of legwork on your own.

    The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    Embedded in the metadata of every single picture, whether taken on an iPhone or a high-end DSLR, is a whole slew of information known as EXIF data. Most image editing programs, even basic ones like Apple Photos or online solutions like Flickr and Google Photos, let you peek inside the EXIF data to find out more about the technical underpinnings of a photo.

    What Auto mode can show you

    If you take pictures using Auto mode all the details such aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are saved in the EXIF data along with a slew of additional information like your camera model, whether the flash fired, what type of metering mode was used, even the location of the picture if your camera has GPS capability. Looking at the EXIF data of your photos, and other photos you see online is a fantastic way to learn about the technical aspects of photography so you can get a better sense of how the picture was taken. It’s almost like getting a movie on DVD or Blu-Ray and watching the behind-the-scenes bonus features or listening to the director’s commentary, in that you can get a good idea of what creative decisions were made in order to get the final result.

    If you have ever wanted to get more serious about shooting in Manual or one of the semi-automatic modes on your camera, try shooting in Auto and then using the EXIF data to replicate that same shot in Manual mode. Then tweak the settings like aperture or shutter speed and you will start to see how changing these values affects the final image. But be careful – doing this can open you up to a much larger world of photography by helping you learn to creatively control your camera in ways you might have never thought possible!

    The Benefits of Shooting in Auto Mode

    Conclusion

    There’s some kind of a stigma attached to Auto mode, where people sometimes think you are less of a photographer if that’s all you use. I liken this to people who get into arguments about Ford versus Chevy, Android versus iPhone, or any of the other sorts of silly things over which people tend to squabble. If you use Auto and you like it,

    If you use Auto Mode and you like it, then by all means, keep using it! Certainly, it’s nice to have more control over your camera, but some people find that by giving up control and just using Auto they are free to focus on other things that matter more to them. If that sounds like you, then by golly (as my dad would say) put your camera mode dial to the green square and click away.

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    Digital Photography School

  • How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    Let’s face it, we’ve all been here before. We start off being in love with photography. We live and breath everything related to it, we take pictures of everything and anything, we obsess over the latest gear and gadgets until we almost alienate everyone around us. Who wants to get up at ungodly hours in the morning just to catch the most beautiful sunrise? But soon enough, the enthusiasm starts to slacken and you feel like you are taking the same photos over and over again. The good and the bad news is that photography is one of these art forms that is constantly evolving. Every day there is some new technique, new gear or even new post-processing style that seems to be quite the rage. So there are some simple and easy ways to stay inspired with your photography.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    Draw up a plan for your success

    Like any other professional industry, documenting your photography goals is also a great idea. Often just voicing and acknowledging what is in your head is the first step towards achieving success. If you are just starting out, maybe limit yourself to a couple of reasonable goals and while you are at it, also document some tasks that will help you achieve your goals.

    Maybe it is getting comfortable in shooting in Manual mode, or maybe it is being comfortable using off-camera flash. No matter what the goal, it is easier to achieve when you have a solid actionable plan to help you get there. Take this even a step further by actually writing and planning the execution steps needed to achieve that goal. If you want to learn how to shoot in manual, check out the other resources here on dPS, like Getting off Auto – Manual, Aperture and Shutter Priority modes explained. Schedule time every week to shoot for an hour or so in manual mode. Ask a photographer friend to help you learn the ropes. There are many ways to execute on your photography goals.

    Work on personal projects

    While it is great to be busy and earn a living doing what you love, it can also start to drain the creative spirit. Give yourself permission to take on a few passion projects, otherwise known as personal projects. These personal projects are a way for you to fall back in love with photography without any pressures or expectations. They can be projects that last for years or they can be projects that get completed within a month. Not matter what you choose, choose a topic that is near and dear to your heart and give it your best shot (pun absolutely intended here!). Read: 12 Creative Photography Project Ideas to Get you Motivated

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    Here I am representing everyday elements in black and white, almost like I am reliving the good old days of black and white film photography. This is just a personal exercise in looking for monochromatic patterns and frames that will work well without any color.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    To me, black and white for these blades of wheat brings out more texture than in the actual color image.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    A simple place setting looks more regal in B&W

    Go shoot without an agenda

    Pick up your camera – whether it’s a DSLR, film camera or even your cell phone, and photograph something – anything. Don’t put much thought or plan towards the outcome. Sometimes it’s just the act of pressing the shutter without thinking of the end result that can provide the right amount of stress release. You can either look at the images or choose to delete your work. The whole point of this is just to enjoy the act of photography without expectations or stressing about creating the perfect frame.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    Take up another form of creative outlet

    Creativity does not always mean artistic. Sometimes being creative has nothing to do with art but everything to do with creating with your own hands. Creativity can be found in cooking a meal from scratch, exercising a new fitness routine, knitting or sewing, gardening, writing in a journal, or even just going for a walk outside and studying leaf patterns (what can I say, I live in Chicago where it is cold for more than six months of the year!!).

    Let any or all of these activities flow without structure or planning. They are simply a means to release all that creative energy building up inside of you. Be kind to yourself and just give yourself some leeway to take a break from photography.

    Create a self-challenge and work towards that

    Especially at the beginning of the year a lot of folks opt for creative challenges like a 365 project where you take one photo every day, or a 52 week where you document each week of the year with a series of images. There are other flavors of this like shooting a single color for a week, photographing your daily meals, etc. Whatever is your self-challenge, document it and work on it. Perhaps even join or start a group online where others can participate with you. That can motivate you even further to keep the inspiration alive.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    My personal project is to become proficient in old school film photography. To me, this is a great way to learn the basics of photography yet again. Plus there is something about the quality of film scans – they just have so much more depth and character to them.

    How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck

    Using an old 30+-year-old film camera to capture some landscapes and animals.

    Conclusion

    I hope this article has inspired you to not give up if you are feeling uninspired or dejected with your photography. With a few simple exercises and a conscious effort to change your mindset, you can come back more inspired and hopefully more motivated to explore all these wonderful facets of this art form that has so many ardent fans all over the world!

    What are some things you have found successful when you are in a photography rut? Feel free to share those in the comments below to help other readers as well.

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    The post How to Get Inspiration for Photography When You Feel Stuck by Karthika Gupta appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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