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How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing

12 May

If you are a landscape photographer, you might already be using various lens filters to get desired colors and saturation in your images. What if you do not own these filters or forget to carry them along? There is a tool in Adobe Lightroom can help you.

The HSL (Hue, Saturation, and Luminance) tool is a savior for all photographers, especially those shooting landscapes. This is because the HSL tool allows you to adjust the hue, saturation, and luminance in your photos very efficiently.

Where is HSL Panel located in Lightroom?

First, you have to make sure that you are working on the Develop module, in order to access the HSL tool.

How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing - develop module

Once you are in the develop module, you can now see all the toolbars on the right-hand side of the window. Simply scroll down a bit until you see the “HSL / Color / B&W” panel. As you will be working on the HSL tool, just click on the “HSL” tab.

How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing - HSL panel

Using the Hue Sliders in HSL

The first tool that we shall be discussing is the Hue tab, which as the name suggests allows you to adjust the hue (or color tint) of a photo. Hue enables you to adjust the tones ranging from -100 to +100. In simple language, you can change the tone/tint of a particular color in a photo, but within the hue range. By default, Lightroom allows you to play with the hue of eight default colors as shown in the photo below.

For example, if you look at the comparison below the original color of the sky was blue (middle image below). So if I adjust the blue slider and take it all the way to -100, the color shifts from blue to a somewhat greenish color. Similarly, if I take the slider all the way to +100 the color shifts towards a magenta tone.

hue adjustments - How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing

Hue adjustments with the Blue slider.

I know it looks disastrous, but this extreme example gives you an idea of how you can use the Hue tool when required. Let me share a perfect example with you that I achieved using the Hue adjustments.

How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing

LEFT: Original image RIGHT: Color corrected using the Hue tool

Using the Saturation Sliders in HSL

Now once you are done adjusting the hue of the colors that you desire, you can move on to the saturation tab in the HSL panel. We all love saturation in landscape photos especially in the sky, don’t we?

Using the saturation tab, you can adjust the intensity of a particular color from the list of eight default colors. Unlike the saturation slider in the Basic LR panel where the whole photo gets affected, here you can selectively adjust the saturation of a single color.

Suppose you want to boost the saturation of blue color in the sky, simply drag the blue slider towards the right and see the magic. If you wish to make it less saturated, mode the slider towards the left and experiment with selective coloring effect.

Similarly, you can perform repeated actions using different colors in your frame and get a well-saturated photo.

How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing - blue saturation slider

The blue saturation slider on the HSL panel in action.

Using the Luminance Sliders in HSL

The last tool from the HSL panel is Luminance, which allows you to adjust the brightness of a particular color tone. So basically you can increase or reduce the brightness of a color by adjusting the Luminance slider.

There are situations when the sky is way brighter than the mountains or your subject, or maybe your subject is brighter than other elements of your frame. Using the luminance sliders, you can balance the brightness of the scene.

For instance, in the photo below, the sky is overexposed and I want the blue color to be dark in order to get more contrast in the sky. Using the Luminance tool I adjusted the blur color slider to -80 to get the desired result as shown below.

How to Use Lightroom HSL Settings for Landscape Photo Editing

Choosing Colors Manually in HSL

There are chances that the color that you want to choose to adjust the Hue, Saturation, or Luminance is not amongst the eight default colors. No worries, you can still adjust the HSL settings using a special feature called the Targeted Adjustment Tool which is located on the HSL toolbar itself (as shown in red below).

How to Use Lightroom HSL Settings for Landscape Photo Editing

The targeted adjustment tool is highlighted in red.

Simply tap on the icon and take it over to the exact spot where you wish to adjust the hue, saturation,  or luminance. Now click and hold at that point in your frame and drag the mouse up/down to adjust the sliders automatically.

Some colors are a mix of two or more primary colors, so you may see multiple sliders being adjusted when you click and drag the mouse. For example, green grass isn’t always just green, it usually has a lot of yellow in it as well.

Final Words

Hue, saturation, and luminance play an important rule in landscape photo color correction, do you agree? Using the HSL sliders, you get a lot more flexibility as you can perform better color correction based on particular colors.

Be it changing the hue of trees from green to orange, boosting the saturation of the sky, or adjusting the luminance of the scene, the HSL tool in Lightroom takes care of it pretty well.

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5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

12 May

In this article, you’ll get five tips to help you find great locations for travel photography.

The issue

The use of cell phones has truly changed the face of photography. All realms have been affected. Travel photography like all other genres has changed. Nowadays the world is so easily accessible through the internet, so many famous sites have been shot over and over again. Google the Eiffel Tower and millions of images will pop up.

person on a quiet beach - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

We stopped to visit the small town in Wales that my parents lived in when they were young, and discovered a beautiful moody beach.

So when traveling how do you find things to shoot? Yes of course still shoot the famous landmarks and sites. You have to shoot them! How could anyone go to London without checking out Big Ben or London Bridge? (Unless of course the clock was covered in scaffolding for maintenance like it was when I visited.)

As always, I’m going to suggest you push yourself past these common sites and look deeper into a location. The question is how do you find great locations for travel photography and how can you plan your trip, so you make the most of these sites?

It’s time to look into a few methods for finding fantastic photographic opportunities when traveling at home or abroad.

1) Travel Books

Portugal travel book - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

A shot from my Instagram feed. I’m always researching my next location, even when sitting in a car waiting for my kids.

Tried and trusted travel books can help you begin your search for interesting places to photograph. While not focused solely on photography, they provide you with the background information and history of different sites.

All of this is, of course, relevant for travel photography. You need to know the ins and outs of visiting a country and all its sites. There’s nothing worse than showing up expecting to be able to shoot a variety of historic buildings only to discover they’re closed on Sundays.

Having a solid knowledge of a country is so important when going to photograph a location. What are the rules for photography? How will people react when you take their photo? Travel guide books can help you in the primary stages of your research.

5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography - Snowdonia valley

Snowdonia is the main tourist location but when we stopped to check out the view we stumbled upon the training grounds for the airforce planes zipped through this valley. It was impressive.

One of my favorite series of digging into a place is the 500 Hidden Secrets Books. I love them for the info and the pointers. They usually contain some small less popular sites and the books are nicely organized. Another favorite that has never steered me wrong is the Lonely Planet Guides. Whatever you prefer, there are tons of books out there that can assist you in your primary travel research.

2) Travel Blogs and Articles

I often find inspiration for travel by reading articles on the internet. Of course, check out the famous websites like the travel lists from Forbes and National Geographic but I also like to dig into some rather interesting blogs. There are lots of people visiting the world, discovering places, and providing inspiration. I like to take a look at what the folks at Drink Tea and Travel have discovered as well as Dan Flying Solo.

5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography - secluded beach

A small out of the way beach we found through a hiking website.

3) Travel sharing websites

A site like Trover can be very inspiring and informative when trying to research a destination. I’m heading to New York and Portugal shortly so this site will feature fairly heavily in my research. It’s very much a social sharing site that allows you to get some first-hand information about specific locations.

But it’s important to plan when going traveling with photography as your focus and being able to get first-hand information is important. Let’s face it; if the author is not a photographer, they have no idea how important it is to visit a site at the right time of day. So, by all means, check out a ton of photo sharing sites before you head to any location.

Harlech Castle - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

A shot of the impressive Unesco Heritage Site, Harlech Castle. You will find this site on the main tourist trail in Wales. It’s still worth a visit, though.

4) Ask Locals

One of the best places I found to shoot was based on information I got from a local. You have to be careful when you ask. Always take the proper safety precautions but they know their home well, and they know the hidden away amazing places.

Case in point, people come to Canada and they often skip Toronto and head straight to Niagara Falls. Their response is often the same. The falls are nice but the rest of the town, it’s kitschy. As a local, I know all about the tourist trap areas around the falls. I often direct people to see the falls but to also visit Toronto too. They are often surprised at what they find in this frequently overlooked city.

So go for it chat up the locals to find out what they know about their home. Just be aware and always use safety precautions when meeting people in person or giving our your personal information or travel plans.

restaurant - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

A shot taken on my phone. We found this amazing restaurant by chatting with a bouncer in Cardiff.

5) When you get there take a calculated risk and follow a whim

Some of the best photographs I’ve ever captured have occurred because I let fate guide my steps. I chose to leave the beaten path and explore. I revelled in the mystery of getting lost.

You will find that these detours almost always pay off. You find out of the way places that provide you with some insight into the wonder of a location. Plus there’s always the excitement of adventure and the road less traveled.

Most of my favourite memories come from these moments when I have no idea where I’m going or what might occur.

Harlech castle black and white - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

A more artistic shot of Harlech Castle.

Summary

There are endless places to discover. Travel photography is both exciting and challenging. Don’t hesitate to discover some amazing things.

Share your favorite methods of finding great photography locations. The more ways we share, the more we discover about this incredible world in which we live. So go ahead post your favorite travel articles, share your stories with locals and let’s make a huge list of resources we can all use for finding those amazing locations we love to capture so much.

waterfall - 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography

Best day ever! On a side trip, we found this waterfall and had a blast wandering around behind it.

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Weekly Photography Challenge – Time for a Picnic

12 May

Whether it’s spring where you live or fall, it’s always a good time for a picnic! And what better way to cap it off than by taking some photos as well for this week’s photography challenge.

Photo by Lucie Capkova on Unsplash

Think of all the things you could photograph at a picnic like:

  • The food (get some tips on that here)
  • People enjoying themselves
  • The table and surrounding scenery
  • Ants if they show up to the party (get out your macro lens!)
  • Patterns
  • Abstracts

The sky is the limit – oh wait, you could photograph that too!

Photo by Juja Han on Unsplash

Weekly Photography Challenge – Picnic

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

Win Prizes from ViewBug

We’re excited to introduce a sponsor and prizes for this week’s challenge. ViewBug is the World’s biggest photo contest community with over 70 contests always open for submissions. Win prizes, exposure, and the bragging rights. It’s FREE to join! This week, ViewBug will be awarding three winners prizes!

One Challenge winner will receive 1 year of ViewBug PRO ($ 139 value) plus a free photography logo bundle ($ 59 value). Two Runners Up will receive a 1 year of ViewBug Premium ($ 59 value) plus a free photography logo bundle ($ 59 value).

To Enter

Participate in the challenge as you normally would (as described above) by posting your photo. To be considered for a prize you just need to complete the entry form below (or via this link) and submit the link to your photo.

The Contest is open continuously from 05:00am Australian Eastern Standard Time (“AEST”) on May 12, 2018 (03:00pm United States Eastern Daylight Time (“EDT”) on May 11, 2018), through May 19, 2018, 04:59am AEST (May 18, 2018, 02:59pm EDT) (the “Contest Promotion Period”).

Full Terms and Conditions Digital Photography School Weekly Challenge Picnic – ViewBug T&C

Winners are announced on the Weekly Challenge Winners page on 26th of May.

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Camera Basics – Two Video Tutorials to Help You Master Your Camera Settings

12 May

Okay so you’ve got a new camera and want to learn some camera basics, these two video tutorials will give you a hand. Or perhaps you’ve been shooting for a while and want to get off Auto mode – this applies to you as well.

Camera Basics

In this first video, Peter McKinnon explains the three parts of the exposure triangle in an easy to understand format.

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Understanding Exposure

Next, in this second video, Tony Northrup demonstrates the basics of exposure and how the elements of the exposure triangle work together.

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One thing he explains well is how adjusting just one of the three parts of the exposure triangle doesn’t make the photo darker or brighter when using one of the auto or semi-automatic modes.

Tony encourages you to watch his demonstration and then set up a similar arrangement in your home and try the experiments yourself. This is a great way to learn so that you can really see the results of changing the various settings and understand how they work.

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Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

11 May

Fast-paced movement across the court or rink, cheering crowds, the thrill of the win (or agony of defeat). These are the myriad of elements waiting to be captured by your camera when you photograph a sports event.

Whether you’re taking pictures at the home arena of your favorite pro team or snapping away in the gym at a high school game, shooting indoors requires you make certain preparations. You must get a handle on your surroundings to ensure sharp, compelling photos that will make viewers feel like they are part of the action.

Select the appropriate lens

Typically for indoor sports, you’ll want to have lenses that open to an aperture of f/2.8 to let in the maximum amount of light. A versatile lens to start with would be a 70-200mm f/2.8. From there, it depends on whether you’re shooting hockey, basketball, or another indoor sport.

For basketball, for instance, a 24-70mm lens is ideal so you can capture the athlete’s full body as he or she jumps up for the basket. For other indoor sports, a 300mm f/2.8 lens will serve you well so can zoom in on the puck or ball.

Because most pro arenas are now using higher-intensity LED lights, a lens with a 100-400mm or 150-600mm focal-length range, even with a maximum f-stop of f/6.3, is also a viable option.

Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography - hockey shot
Prepare for the big game

To get the lay of the land, you’ll want to do your homework on the arena or venue in which you’ll be shooting. If you can, find out what kind of lighting the location has and its intensity, either by visiting the venue yourself or asking other photographers who’ve shot there. This will help you better prepare what lens assortment you will need to bring.

Pack your gear bag early, perhaps a day in advance if possible, then unpack it and look at it again on the day of the event to make sure you’re not missing anything. There’s nothing worse than getting to an event and realizing that you left a lens behind (to save a little weight) that you would’ve been better off having with you.

Also, scope out what the conditions will be like beforehand. Although you won’t have to worry about certain elements as you would outdoors (e.g., it won’t be raining inside), you still need to be vigilant.

Case in point: At the Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang this year, they kept the main arena at 53 degrees (11.7 c) so the ice would stay in perfect condition. That’s a lot colder than what photographers are used to inside most National Hockey League arenas. It’s key to know those logistics in advance so you can make the necessary preparations to keep your body warm, as well as to keep your equipment in tip-top shape by protecting it where applicable.

goalie - Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

Scout out the best vantage point

Photographing indoor sports is all about focusing on the athletes’ eyes, so being at floor level is usually ideal. If it’s hockey, you’ll want to be at ice level in what’s called the “deep corner position,” which is just south of where the goalie’s line intersects the boards. From that angle, you’ll have the ability to shoot the entire ice.

For basketball, being on the floor halfway between the side of the court and the basket works best. That offers you the opportunity to not only see the entire playing surface but also to capture players jumping up toward the hoop or coming in for the goal.

Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

Compensate for various lighting setups

As mentioned earlier, most modern indoor arenas today have switched to LED lighting. So using regular auto white balance (AWB) is usually sufficient to get you close to the proper color. If you’re using the Kelvin temperature setting, it can range from 4100-5400K, depending on how they’ve set up the LED lights.

In some hockey arenas, if AWB isn’t cutting it, use a custom white balance and take a reading off of a neutral surface in the arena. In other arenas, it is actually best to do a custom white balance by shooting towards the arena lights themselves. With hockey, for instance, the ice works well because you’ve got such a large white surface to use as your neutral tone.

In smaller venues, like high school or college gyms, the problem isn’t just that these places are poorly lit. They’re also illuminated with an assortment of different kinds of lights, whether they’re different-colored fluorescents, sodium vapor lamps, or older-style carbon arc lights. If that’s the case, you may find that as a player is dribbling down the court, the sequence of frames you get of that player will each be a bit different in color.

On Canon cameras, you can use the anti-flicker option to cut down on the pulsing from certain lights. That helps balance the color of the light, but in situations where it varies greatly, you can shoot in auto white balance and then tweak the image when you bring it into Photoshop.

One other thing to be aware of is shooting through glass. You’ll not only have to worry about reflections, but also the color cast that’s given off by some of the glass sheets used in arenas. Keep an eye out for that so you can adjust accordingly.

goalie in a mask - Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

Nail down your camera settings

Exposure is going to depend on each venue’s lighting conditions, but one of the keys to this type of photography is that you need to freeze the action. Shooting at 1/1000th of a second or 1/1250th of a second will freeze most of the action you’ll find at indoor sporting venues.

In terms of ISO, it wouldn’t be unusual to be shooting at 4000 or 5000. Inside a pro arena, that could give you an f-stop of f/5.6 or f/6.3; in the worst-lit arenas, you could be down to f/2.8 or f/3.5.

Hone your focusing skills

You’ll want to use autofocus 99% of the time for indoor sports, although you can certainly override that in situations where the need arises. You may want to shoot in continuous autofocus mode, called AI Servo or Continuous/AF-C, depending on what camera you’re using. This allows you to photograph moving subjects while the camera keeps adjusting focus with the shutter button pressed halfway.

Or you may want to keep the shutter button separate from focusing and assign another button on the back of the camera to focus, a technique called back-button focusing. It all comes down to personal preference, which you’ll discover the more you shoot.

Either way, what’s critical for shooting indoor sports is that you select one point of focus. It’s infinitely faster than using the variable dots that manufacturers have built into the cameras, in which the camera decides which one of 61 different places to focus. Get a handle on the sport — and on individual players — so you’ll know when to press the shutter button.

Experience helps, but so does knowledge of the sport you’re photographing. That includes getting to know not only the ins and outs of the game but also individual players and their particular propensities, such as what side they tend to move toward or when they tend to shoot.

Practice this by selecting an individual player as he or she flies up the ice or runs up the court and concentrating on that, instead of simply following the puck or ball around. Eventually, you develop almost a sixth sense.

Shoot high, low, and 360 degrees around

If you want your photography to stand out, don’t settle for one shooting position. That can be achieved using more advanced techniques, such as using remote cameras. Or you can simply get up and move around the venue so that you’re able to place different backgrounds in your images.

You want to fill the frame, and it’s not always advisable to do so using Photoshop. It’s better to fill the frame in your camera.

Keep an eye on the horizon

They call it that for a reason – it’s horizontal. Double-check your background, such as the boards of an ice hockey rink, to make sure everything is straight, not crooked.

Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

Watch your cropping

Don’t cut a player off at the joints, like at an athlete’s ankles or knees. It’s best to stick with waist-up or full length.

Focus on facial expressions and emotion

The best sports images show both jubilation and dejection in the same frame. Always be on the lookout for the sort of image where you can witness both teams participating and showing the full range of emotions in a game. That’s not to say the action shots aren’t important; it’s just that it adds so much more to show the players engaged in what they’re doing.

These kinds of photos are called “rounding out the take”. You don’t want to come away from an indoor sporting event with just 20 action images — a well-rounded photo narrative will include an action shot, a celebration, a dejection, some individual shots of stars that are playing, or rookie players, and then some ancillary images. Those could include, for example, photos of the officials, fans celebrating, or images of both of the goalies if you’re shooting hockey (just in case one of the goalies ends up being the big story of the game).

If you’re thinking of selling your images, you should also think more generically when it comes to indoor sports photos. In other words, you’ll want to photograph details that tell the story of the sport without pinpointing an individual player or team. That could entail, for instance, a close-up of a puck or a ball, a hand on a ball, or a stick on a puck. Close-ups of skates churning ice and creating ice spray can also tell an interesting story.

Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

Arrive early and stay late

There’s nothing worse than rushing to an event and not having time to think out what you’re going to shoot. Some of your best images will come from those early arrivals and from sticking around after the final buzzer, whether it’s players heading into an arena and prepping for a game or images of the players leaving an event.

If you build in that bit of extra time, you could end up capturing shots that other photographers miss.

Disclaimer: Tamron is a paid partner of dPS.

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Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

10 May

You might not think about it, but as a photographer, you possess a certain power over the people you photograph. In her well-known book On Photography, Susan Sontag wrote:

”To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s mortality, vulnerability, mutability.”

Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People - street portraits

Photographing someone exposes them to scrutiny, both by others and by themselves. The photographer captures a representation of the person which may be very different from how they see themselves; it’s a representation made by someone else. This is not a bad thing or a good thing, but it is the basis for this discussion about consent in photography.

What is consent in photography?

People have a basic right to integrity, to make their own decisions about their bodies. Consent is someone’s agreement for another person to do something that would violate their integrity if it were done without their approval. For instance, we can consent to take part in a medical examination, joining a dance, or performing on stage, all of which would be wrong for someone to force us to do.

So how is this relevant to you? When do you need to ask for consent in photography, and how is it done?

Silhouettes at sunset on the beach in Brighton, England. - Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Consent in photography

When it comes to photography, the absence of consent usually isn’t about a direct physical violation. It’s (fortunately) rare for someone to be dragged into a studio against their will or forced to pose. The legal and ethical issues have more to do with the ”aggression” of the act itself, the right to privacy, and also to some extent the control the person may want to have over how they’re represented.

Even if you may not have considered it in those terms, you’ve probably encountered the question of consent if you’ve ever taken photos of other people, especially if you do street photography. For example, maybe you’ve considered whether to photograph people kissing or taken a photo and received an annoyed or angry expression in return.

Photographing demonstrations and consent. - Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

When considering consent, you need to keep in mind both the making of the photograph and its publication.

For instance, imagine that you’ve been hired to photograph a wedding reception. The consent in these situations is often implied, meaning that even if you’re an outsider in a private space at a private occasion, you can assume that photographing the guests is okay unless they specifically ask you not to. However, this implied consent does not extend to publication on your website or anywhere else, so you’ll have to ask for explicit consent from photographed persons before publishing those photos.

When do you need to ask for consent?

 Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Photographing children and consent.

Legalities

Laws obviously differ from country to country, so you should familiarize yourself with the laws concerning photography in your country or where you travel. For many places, you can find handy summaries of your legal rights as a photographer.

In general, it’s legal to take and publish photographs in and from a public space without asking, whereas taking photographs in a private space requires consent. Selling a photograph usually requires consent from the persons in the picture. If you’re unsure or traveling to a foreign country, it’s always worth looking up the rules.

Anonymous street photography -- tips on consent in photography.

Ethics

Apart from the legal aspect, there is also an ethical one. This one is up to you and your values. Do you feel it’s okay to take a picture of a child playing on a beach or publish a series of portraits of people leaving a bar on your website, without asking first?

We all take part in creating the atmosphere and shaping the attitudes of the society we live in or the communities we visit. Thinking about consent makes it easier to decide which photographs are worth making and which ones are not.

Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Photographing Pride parades and other festivals where people may wish to remain anonymous.

In the end, there’s a spectrum of situations in which you can ask for consent. The range goes from just asking when you’re legally required to do so, to asking every single time you take a photo with a recognizable person in the frame. Don’t expect that doing unto others what you want them to do to you will always work in these situations. People’s attitudes toward being photographed differ a lot between individuals.

Interpreting the law in its least strict sense means you may never need to ask for consent as long as you avoid certain situations, whereas asking every single time will help you avoid unpleasant confrontations. Consent may seem tricky, but in the end, it’s not. All it requires is awareness of the law, knowing your own limits, and respecting the people around you.

Street photography, religion, anonymity, and consent. Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Getting consent in practice

So you’ve decided that you are required to or want to ask for consent from someone you’d like to photograph. What does that actually mean? How do you get a person’s consent to photograph them and maybe publish their picture somewhere?

To get written permission to photograph someone and use their photograph, you can use consent forms or a model release.

There aren’t any correct or incorrect forms; you can make your own and include whatever you want in it. However, the form should at least contain the photographed person’s name and what they’re consenting to (being photographed and the photographs being published in a certain place or a specific context).

The purpose and date are good to add, but it’s also good to keep forms simple so there won’t be any question as to whether the person who signs the form understood it or not.

Who do you ask for consent to take and publish pictures? Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Who do you ask for consent?

Implied consent

Implied consent is when you can assume that the subject is okay with being photographed without explicit written or oral permission. This requires that the person understands that they are being photographed and that they react in a way that implies that they’re okay with it.

As a paid event photographer, you can often assume that the guests know that they may be photographed and that they’ll approach you if they don’t want to be photographed. You can also put up a clear sign at the venue, identifying you as the photographer and explaining that guests can ask to be avoided in the photos if they wish.

In my experience, it’s very rare that people aren’t okay with being photographed at weddings or other events.

Publishing pictures taken at private events often requires permission. -Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

Publishing pictures that were taken at private events often require permission.

There are many consent-related issues to consider in street photography. Tips on how to avoid most issues are presented in this article on how to take an anonymous approach to street photography.

And if you’re unsure, you can always just ask!

Summary

This article is a very general overview of what consent in photography entails, with the intent to inspire you to think about the subject. I have no legal training, so please only use this article as a basis for discussion, and please do add your own ideas to it!

Do you think about consent when you’re making photographs? Which of the photos in this article would you have made sure to get consent for, and which do you think don’t call for consent? Have you ever wished that a photographer had asked before taking a picture of you? I’d love to hear your thoughts on this, please add your comments below.

In the end, maybe we can participate not only in the photographed person’s mortality and vulnerability, but also in their pleasant memories, self-confidence, and all the positive sides of mutability.

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How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

10 May

I’m a studio photographer. There are no two ways around that fact. It also happens to be the way I like it. I prefer the absolute control I have over every single factor in a studio environment. That way, I’m not at the whim of changing light at different times of the day or inclement weather.

How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again - studio portrait of a lady

As a studio photographer, my preferences are for an environment where I control every aspect of the light.

A lot of this might have to do with the fact that I live in the United Kingdom, and for the most part, the stereotypes about the weather aren’t wrong. That and daylight hours throughout the year vary wildly. In the summer, I may have daylight until 11 PM, in the winter, that changes to 3 PM. Locked away in my studio, I don’t have to worry about sudden unpredicted rain (in Yorkshire, there’s a lot of it).

I don’t have to worry about summer temperatures dropping below ten degrees (Celcius) causing severe discomfort for my subjects and myself. Most importantly, I don’t have to worry about the light being even slightly different then I want. In a studio, I decide what I want and if the lights aren’t quite there, I change them until they are as desired.

Of course, I have nothing against natural light. I just have a preference based on how I like to work.

Using Natural Light

outdoor portrait of a girl - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

On occasion, I get out to use natural light when there’s something specific to achieve.

This doesn’t mean I have forsaken natural light as some sort of taboo subject. No, I still use it from time to time, but it’s usually when I’m trying to do something specific in a certain location or with a special technique that can’t be done in a studio.

portrait of a man with gray hair - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

This image was taken only as a technical exercise because of how the light was behaving in a bit of open shade close to sunset.

Shifting perspective

How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again - window lit studio

The large windows in this natural light studio make the space a veritable playground for any photographer enthusiastic about lighting.

Last year, I booked a natural light studio with enormous windows for the first time and the experience completely changed the way I think about these things. I went in treating the whole thing as an experiment. As such, I had no concrete plans. I was going to go in and explore the space, look for pockets of light, and try to seize whatever opportunity presented itself.

How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again - portrait of a lady indoors

The dim, overcast day made for this glorious soft light coming through the windows.

Long story short, I was hooked in minutes. I’m sure the sight of me bouncing from corner to corner going “Ooo, look at the light here and look it at it over here” was more than a bit comical.

The whole experience was like a four hour treasure hunt. It seemed like everywhere I turned, the light was doing something new that was worth exploiting. I can easily compare the feeling to the enthusiasm I felt when I first got a camera and just randomly walked around taking photos of everything and burning through film like it didn’t matter.

As an added bonus, the changeability of the light (one of the factors that kept me firmly in the studio) made new opportunities all the time. On several occasions, I’d move from one spot to another, only to see what the light was doing in the first spot later on and I’d go straight back to it and get completely different results.

girl next to a window - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

A short while after the previous image was taken, the sun came out a bit changing the light from this window completely.

There is one thing that I found very hard to replicate in a studio environment. This particular studio is in an old industrial mill and the windows (there are a lot of them) are gargantuan. This gave the light a beautiful soft quality that would be hard to replicate with artificial lighting.

Needless to say, I loved my first time in a natural light studio and have since made it a point to go back and try to find other natural light venues as well.

lady in a gold top - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

Even from further away, the light from the windows was still soft and provided gentle tonal transitions.

New ideas

An unexpected side effect of this experience is that I every time I come out of one of these places, I leave with a head full of ideas on how I can apply what I’ve seen the light doing in the studio.

darker portrait of lady in yellow top - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

Using a strobe with High-Speed Sync functionality allowed me to darken the studio’s windows for a dramatic background while lighting the subject the way I would in a normal studio environment.

On top of that, I have always forsaken the option of mixing natural light with flash. For whatever reason, I never really felt that it was worth the effort. My opinion on this has changed dramatically since my first visit to that studio. Now I’m always looking for new ideas on how I can use and exploit natural light at any time of day and mix it with studio strobes if need be.

portrait of a girl with long blond hair - How a Studio Photographer Came to Love Natural Light Again

Also made using High-Speed Sync, the flash allowed me to fill in the shadows created by the backlighting from the windows. The result is an even exposure throughout the frame and no blown out windows.

Am I a Convert to Natural Light?

I’m still a studio photographer, there’s no doubt about that. I still prefer the control the studio provides and I will still default to that. However, I won’t be going out of my way to avoid natural light settings in the future.

Between the multitude of opportunities these experiences provided me and the ideas I took away from them, I will be making it a point to regularly shoot in natural light just to shake things up a bit if nothing else.

The end

The point of all this? Good question. If you’re like me, and you find yourself stuck in a rigid pattern, such as my adherence to studio work, I encourage to make the conscious choice of going out and pursuing the exact opposite.

You might very well find that your convictions towards whatever it is you’re stuck to aren’t founded as solidly as you had thought. If nothing else, it will give the opportunity to learn something new and to grow as a photographer and nobody can argue that that’s a bad thing.

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Hard Drive Review: QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD for Photographers

09 May

In my last few storage and hard drive reviews for photographers, the units have all been similar in that they’ve been singularly NAS or Network Attached Storage units. Ones which connect to your home network via your wireless router (your wifi box) or a network switch.

With photo and video editing, while we’re almost there with speed and agility on the NAS side of things, the ability to directly connect your external storage to your computer, and essentially work at “full speed” is very appealing. But so is the ability to use your NAS to deliver to clients and to be your own personal “DropBox” of sorts, so which one is best for you?

Why can’t we have both?

The team at QNAP reached out and offered me a unit to review, one of their very nice TVS-682T Triple Mode Storage NAS / DAS and iScsi boxes. I’ll be focussing on the NAS and DAS side of things in this article.

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

NAS / DAS, what’s he on about!

Here’s a quick recap, perchance you’ve forgotten since my last article!

What is NAS?

Network attached storage is when your storage is attached via the network, rather than directly to your computer.

What is DAS?

Directly attached storage is exactly what it says on the tin, directly (think via USB or Thunderbolt, etc.) connected to your computer by a cable.

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

In basic terms, typically a NAS won’t operate as a DAS, and you are limited to one or the other. That usually means you’re limited to either flexibility in terms of being able to connect to your storage from anywhere on the internet, or you’re limited to having a storage box connected only to your computer, but it’s nice and fast.

The TVS-682T has both (plus more, but we’ll stick with NAS and DAS) the ability to connect to your network and be a NAS, as well as the ability to connect to your computer directly with Thunderbolt 2.

Technical specs of the QNAP TVS-682T

For those of you that are into the tech specs, here’s what the TVS-682T offers:

  • Built-in M.2 SATA 6gb/s slots & 2.5” SSD slots.
  • Qtier technology and SSD cache enable 24/7 optimized storage efficiency.
  • The Network & Virtual Switch app assists network traffic distribution and re-routes dedicated bandwidth for diverse applications.
  • Triple HDMI output for smooth 4K @30Hz video playback.
  • Transcodes 4K H.264 videos on-the-fly or offline.
  • Thunderbolt™ 2 (20Gbps) and 10GbE dual network for on-the-fly video editing and speedy sharing.
  • 4 available combinations with Mac/PC and JBOD for flexible attaching, sharing and expansion.
  • Scalable up to 52 hard drives with Thunderbolt 2 storage expansion enclosures TX-800PTX-500P.
  • Virtual JBOD (VJBOD) allows using QNAP NAS to expand the  TVS-682T’s storage capacity.
  • Supports QRM+ unified remote server management, QvPC technology, virtual machine and container applications, and storage for virtualization.

Blazing fast speed

Before we get into how I’m using the QNAP, I wanted to point out that to increase the pace at which you work, the QNAP has something called SSD Cache Acceleration (sounds fancy, huh!?) I’m certain that you’ve likely heard of SSD (Solid State Drive) now, yes?

If not, briefly, it’s a drive that your computer can use to store data (your photographs, etc.) but it doesn’t have any spinning parts. It’s essentially made from solid state memory, rather than a spinning platter drive and as you can imagine, this results in much faster access to your data, no head looking for the right sector on a disk results in very low latency.

What SSD Cache Acceleration does for you is (in very basic terms) puts the stuff you’re working on into the SSD Cache and serves it up in no time. This, combined with being connected to your computer via Thunderbolt means that you have a storage setup that is blazing fast! 

Other benefits

As well as using the QNAP TVS-682T as a photo/video editing and delivery platform, you can use it as a great system to backup your computer. You can even use it as a computer if you so choose! (It runs a Linux operating system) and it’s also a very nice Plex Media Server (comes with a remote control) so you can play HD content, movies, and music, via the HDMI outputs. 

Anyway, on with the story!

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

The Samsung SSD 860 EVO hard drive is a speedy little beast! Adding the SSD cache makes for a very fast, useable setup, even with the largest image files or 4K video.

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

Moving inside, we opted for the Western Digital WD60EFRX 6TB drives for storage, a solid performing NAS focussed drive. WD Red drives with NASware 3.0 technology are purpose-built to balance performance and reliability in NAS and RAID environments. NAS specific drives are different to your regular desktop HDD’s in that they’re pretty much built to be on 24/7, they run quietly and they keep their cool. That’s our build run-down.

Using the drive and ease of setup

The QNAP operates like your regular NAS in that it’s accessible on your local network. You can sling files back and forth over wifi on most devices using one of many apps available. You can also share links to files with co-workers, so if you have the QNAP setup in your studio, it means you can very easily collaborate on a shoot or multi-media project. Most importantly for me, it gives me the ability to access it from anywhere with an internet connection using my QNAPcloud.

It all sounds very technical. For the average user that’s the one thing I’d say I prefer about my Synology setup, is that I find it more straightforward or guided when coming at it from a beginner’s point of view. Like the Synology, the unit will auto-configure your router and ask if you want it to be more public or more private, etc.

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

But for us as photographers and filmmakers, the main drawing-card is that the unit is both NAS and DAS. So there are no hold-ups in workflow, and the ability to privately deliver digital content to clients right after you’ve ingested the files. You can use the PhotoStation (hmm, think I’ve heard that name before!) app to share photo and video via a password protected album, or publically.

What you really want to know is, how did it perform?

What we’re looking at here is the ingest and edit speed of photos and videos. I have two comparison devices to use in this little test, my 8TB G-Tech (Thunderbolt 2) and my behemoth, Promise R8 (also Thunderbolt 2) both directly connected to my 2017 iMac via adapters.

Note: Sadly, mid-way through this review, my 2015 iMac died… Apple replaced it with a 2017 iMac which only has USB-C. So while I’m thankful, I had to head out and buy a stack of adapters to use any of my drives and indeed to finish this review!

Handling of large files

I shoot with a Sony a7R Mk2 which happily produces 85MB files. So even a quick photo session with a family, 15 images, is about 1.2GB of data, which is nothing in the big scheme of things. But if you’re ingesting that every time into a slow disk, you’ll most likely start to go a little bit crazy and potentially toss your computer into the nearest dumpster!

Multiply that 1.2GB by hundreds of GB of data that could be shot on a set, or some tasty 4K video footage and you really need the speed of DAS! The QNAP certainly did not disappoint, keeping up with both the G-Tech and the Promise storage units.

But where I really noticed a sweet difference is when I was in Lightroom, editing files directly on the QNAP. The QNAP operating system puts the files you’re working with into “hot storage” and gives you quick access to them, so I guess my CR2 files were in the SSD Cache and as a result, the edits had no lag time like you’ll sometimes get if you work over a network!

You can see the SSD Cache flexing its muscles here (the little jumps) as I flick through images in my Lightroom catalog.

QNAP TVS-682T with Samsung SSD hard drive review

I could take my finished edits and drop them straight into my PhotoStation folder and have them on the web right away. I could also export full resolution image to a folder that I then share a link to with my client! They can view the album and then download the full resolution files with very little fuss, and it’s all securely controlled on my own NAS.

Conclusions

What was the result of this hard drive review and using the QNAP TVS-682T for photography, for the last month? In my opinion, it is highly recommended if you’re looking for a solution to do both DAS and NAS! 

Any negatives? Yes, I find the interface to be a little more technical and potentially confusing for people that are starting out in the world of robust NAS storage options.

But the positives far outweigh the negatives (there’s also helpdesk support, remote assistance, and a great forum if you’re really stuck).

Between the TVS-682T loaded with WD Red drives, and the Samsung EVO 860, this is one heck of a storage solution. 

Disclaimer: The author was provided gear by the supplier for the purpose of this review.

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7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

08 May

Have you ever looked at an image of the night sky where the stars leave long, arching trails? These images, called “star trails”, record the movement of the stars as the earth spins around its axis. This is a compelling way for you to capture a phenomenon not observable to the human eye.

As with many creative photography techniques, there are can be a steep learning curve for shooting star trails. A basic understanding of the night sky, knowing the impact of focal length, and composition can help you maximize a night out with the goal of shooting star trails.

Star Trails, Alaska, Tutorial, Starlapse - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

This star trails shot adds to the native art of the Hoonah Tlingit.

Some fairly simple post-processing techniques can help you perfect your shot once home. I will walk you through the basic technique of photographing star trails, help you think about how your gear affects the outcome, and highlight two post-processing techniques that I find useful.

1 – Basic Technique for Shooting Star Trails

The concept of the shooting star trails is actually pretty simple. Set up your camera on a tripod and then compose the shot. I recommend disabling autofocus at this time. Once you have your composure right, set the exposure on your camera. In general, you will want to expose the shot for as long as possible without over-exposure. You can check the histogram of your image to decide if it has been overexposed or not.

On dark nights without a moon or light pollution, you can start in Manual Mode, ISO 800, f/2.8 (or lower/wider), and 15-seconds. Modify these settings to best capture your scene. Once you are happy with the exposure, you will need to set your camera to take pictures at a steady interval. You can do this by setting your camera’s internal interval meter or by attaching an external intervalometer.

Each camera model has different intervalometer connections or internal settings (or may not have this feature), so consult your camera’s manual to get this set up correctly. As you set up your camera, think about the number of shots you want to take. The more shots you take the more the stars will move – with many lenses you will start to capture significant movement in about 8 minutes.

Below I will go through a couple scenarios where fewer or more shots may be better. As a rule of thumb, I shoot for a minimum of 45 minutes and as long as several hours. Let your camera shoot and enjoy the night sky!

Processing or Stacking the Star Trails

Once I am done with the shoot, I import the photos to Lightroom and Photoshop (using Adobe Bridge). There are other star-stacking programs that you can experiment with, but I like Photoshop for this task. To import the photos from Adobe Bridge open the program and then navigate to where the photos are stored. Highlight the photos you want to include in the star trail and then go to Tools –> Photoshop –> Load Layers into Photoshop As Layers.

Once the layers have loaded into Photoshop you may want to use the Auto-align feature (disregard this if you are certain your tripod did not shift) by highlighting the layers in the right panel and then going to Edit –> Auto-Align Layers –> Auto. The final step is the use the “lighten” blend mode in the Layers panel and apply it to all the layers.

The lighten function examines all of the overlapping layers and then keeps only the lightest pixel. Keep that in mind as you can use it to your advantage (examples of that below). To complete the image export it to a lossless format (I like TIFF). You may then continue to edit the new TIFF in Lightroom or Photoshop.

2 – Shooting Tips

Know the North Star

Having a basic understanding of astronomy will aid you as you compose your shot. The North Star is often the focus of star trails because it does not move in the sky as the earth spins on its axis. To find it, locate Ursa Major (e.g., The Big Dipper) and then follow the line created by the stars at the end of the dipper to locate the North Star.

Star apps on your phone are also a great way to locate the dipper or the North Star. Once you know where it is, you can use it in your shot. I often like to bury the North Star behind a piece of a foreground element giving the final image a pinwheel effect.

Polaris, North Star - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

Knowing the north star will help you with your star trails! In this image of Ursa Major, I have circled the stars of the constellation in red and the north star in green.

Star Trails, Alaska, Tutorial, Starlapse - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

I buried the north star behind this black spruce and shot for nearly three hours to make this shot. The resulting image has a pin-wheel effect.

Star Trails, Alaska, Tutorial, Starlapse - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

I put the north star behind a Sitka Spruce and shot this image at 14mm providing many stars in the shots and a pinwheel effect.

3 – Find Some Foreground Elements

Foreground elements are always important for landscape photography. When shooting star trails, think about foreground elements that capture the essence of the scene or that you can place prominently and by themselves.

By this, I mean objects that stand away from the background of the image. You may also want to choose elements that can be lit by the light of the moon or by using light painting. I like to think of star trails as telling the story of the night and the objects that you include in that frame will aid you in that storytelling.

Star Trails old barn, Minnesota, Tutorial, Starlapse - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

I chose this old barn because the moonlight helped light up its character and I felt it captured the essence the Minnesota field in which it stands.

4 – Use Light Painting

Using Adobe Photoshop’s Lighten blend mode provides a lot of options for creativity when shooting star trails! Remember, that Lighten only keeps the lightest pixels in the whole stack of images. So by using light painting, you can selectively lighten objects in the frame.

Illuminate the foreground with your phone, headlamp, or another light source. You can light up the whole thing or selectively light elements of it. Experiment with lighting angles, intensities, and colors. If you don’t like the lighting of a certain exposure simply remove it from the layers that you import into Photoshop. I usually spend the first 10-20 frames lighting the foreground to make sure that I capture the lighting that I want and then let the camera take the rest of the shots.

Star Trails, Alaska, with american flag - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

Here I used light painting to illuminate this flag that I placed in the foreground. I lit the flag in several different ways and then chose the best frame to include in the final shot.

Star Trails, Alaska, evergreen trees - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

In this image, I used light painting the softly illuminate the snow-covered trees in the foreground of this shot.

5 – Pick Your Lens Focal Length Wisely

Focal length will strongly impact the amount of time it takes for the stars to move in your shot. Shorter focal lengths (e.g, 14mm) will take longer for the stars to have trails than longer focal lengths (e.g., 50mm). Knowing this will help you plan your shot. The three images below emphasize this effect.

MThe wide-angle of my 14mm wide-angle lens allowed me to capture the North Star and a distant mountain landscape, but I stood there for three hours to get the amount of movement in the stars that I wanted. The second shot was taken at 50mm and only 45-minutes elapsed before significant movement in the stars occurred. The third shot is an extreme example, shot at 300mm. The green streak is Comet Lovejoy and shows only a couple minutes of movement.

Star Trails North Star - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

This image was shot at 14 mm, full frame and captures about three hours of star movement.

Star Trails landscape night - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

Shot at 50mm, this image took 45 minutes to capture the star movement.

Star Trails 300mm lens - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

This image was captured at 300mm on a crop sensor (effective 600 mm) and shows only a couple minutes of movement. The green streak is Comet Lovejoy.

6 – Play with Exposure Times

The length of your exposure will strongly influence the final image that you create. There are no guidelines to what is the right length, instead, you should be guided by what looks good to your eye. As a tip – you can always choose to use fewer shots than you captured so by default I would take as many images as you think you’ll need and then modify the amount once you import them into Photoshop.

Which of the images below do you like better? The longer exposure or the shorter one?

Star Trails, Alaska, - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

This image captures about 45 minutes of star trails at 50mm and I like how the falling arc of the stars lead my eye to the subtle mountains in the background.

Star Trails, Alaska dock - 7 Tips for Shooting and Processing Star Trails

This image captures 30 minutes of star trails at 24mm. I felt that including any more stars would take away from the dock in the foreground.

7 – Compositing Tips

Photoshop gives you a lot of flexibility to mask and preserve or remove elements of the shot. Since star trail shots are composite images and thus art, I do not worry about these alterations from an ethical standpoint. The two techniques below may help you improve the final shot. They assume you are familiar with masking and healing in Adobe Photoshop. If not you will find the linked articles helpful!

Masking a Foreground

Once you compile the images you may find elements that draw your eye away from the phenomenon you are trying to capture. Since the horizon and foreground are the same for all of the images you can choose which foreground looks best to you. Use that foreground to create a selection and convert the selection to a mask.

You can use that mask and exported TIFF file to maintain the foreground you like. In the images below, I wanted to remove the hikers that walked up to the lava flows in Volcanoes National Park and the bright highlights of the lava which became overexposed as the lava moved. I used a mask to preserve the foreground elements I liked.

Star Trails, Hawaii, Tutorial, Starlapse

Editing out Planes and Satellites

Almost all dark nights will have a plane or a satellite come through your frame. Fortunately, these are very easy to remove! Use the Healing Brush tool and set the tool to replace and content aware. You can draw a linear line with the tool over the track of the satellite or plane. Voila! The offending track will disappear.

Star Trails, Alaska, Tutorial, Starlapse

Star Trails, Alaska, Tutorial, Starlapse

I used the healing brush to remove the satellites and planes from the final image above. Can you tell the difference?

Summary

So there you go! I hope this article can help you get out there on your first night of shooting star trails. Remember, knowing your stars, picking a foreground and playing with exposure length will help bring the shot you imagine to reality.

Once you process the stacked images you have lots of flexibility in Photoshop to fix parts you do not like. As I always say, pixels are cheap. So make lots of them as you learn to shoot and process star trails.

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Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits

08 May

You may think that headshots are just like portraits or perhaps think that they are only best photographed in a studio space. Thankfully, natural light headshots can help you to achieve the perfect look and portraits for your clients.

Both indoors and outdoors, natural light will give you a more organic and authentic feel to your client’s headshots. Making the photos more personable and versatile when it comes to using them on social media, resumes, or the like.

Natural light headshots - portrait of a man in cactus setting

Using natural light allows you to create headshots with a more authentic feel.

Advantages of Natural Light Headshots

While studio headshots are the more traditional route for this style of photography, natural light will offer more options as far as backgrounds and lighting than you could ever imagine.

Photographing in natural light gives you more mobility to go from indoor to outdoor without fussing with setting up or tearing down a whole set.

Natural light headshots - two photos of a lady indoors and outdoors

Natural light gives you the opportunity to photograph your client both indoors and at outdoor locations.

You also have the opportunity to photograph your client more organically and more authentically than a traditional headshot in a studio light setup. These types of headshots are growing in popularity since they can be versatile for social media and online profiles.

For example, a wedding decorator actually decorating an event can be a great optional headshot since this way her clients can see her working the event, in addition to the waist cropped headshot.

Natural light headhshots

Photographing your client in natural light helps to create more authentic and real shots that can be used for different purposes.

Natural light also helps you choose backgrounds that perhaps you don’t have available or can’t afford in a studio setup. Brick, repetitive lines like stairs, textured concrete, etc., will give your client more options when choosing her headshots.

Photographing Indoor Natural Light Headshots

Your client may ask you to photograph them in the very place where they work, which will most likely be inside. If this is the case, ask them if you can photograph during midday. This ensures that you will get the best possible light entering their office or building.

Natural light headshots - two portraits of ladies

Using elements already found inside near large windows can offer subtle backgrounds without distracting from your client.

When you are photographing headshots it’s very important to keep your background in mind. Look for evenly dispersed, soft light and a neutral background. Headshots are meant to put the focal point of the photo on the person’s face. Neutral backgrounds help to isolate your client and keep the focus on them. This is one advantage of photographing inside.

Ideal backgrounds where natural light is abundant can include office building lobbies, large windowed offices with lounge seating, plain neutral colored walls, rooms with an interesting pendant or incandescent lighting.

Natural light headshots

Using natural light and combining it with the ambient light in the building can give the portrait a more interesting look.

Photographing Outdoor Headshots

If your client has asked you to photograph them at their workplace, don’t feel pressured to only photograph them indoors. Most often office buildings will have beautifully manicured gardens, atriums, or lawns where you can photograph your client’s headshots.

Choose the background wisely

Try to steer away from too busy a background, though, as this can cause the background to compete with your client. Photographing your client in the shade is most likely to give you the best results as you don’t want to have blotchy lighting on your client’s face or body.

Natural light headshots

Use neutral backgrounds for your client’s headshots in natural light.

Shooting on location can also offer you other options such as textured walls, patterned walls like a brick wall, solid concrete walls, and staircases. All of which creates a neutral background where you will have an overflow of natural light.   

Natural light headshots

Using different types of backgrounds can give your client options.

One of the best backgrounds that you can use is the pavement. Placing your client on a ladder, crate, or having them crouch down will help you get the right angle so that the pavement becomes an even colored background.

If you do use the pavement, place your client close to the edge where the sunlight and shade meet, this will create a natural reflector and bounce light back onto your subject.

Natural light headshots

Using both solid pavement and a manicured garden can offer your client variety.

Add variety

Another advantage to photographing on location is that you can add variety to the session without being limited. Photograph your client with a textured background and then try a solid background.

Even though placing your client in the shade is ideal, you can also use the sunlight as a hair light or to light parts of the background to create more depth in the image.

Natural light headshots

Depending on where you place your client, you can choose how you want to light the headshot. More light or with more drama.

Depending on what your client intends to use the headshots for, you may even try facing your client towards the setting sun.

Natural light headshots

Facing this model towards the sun gives his headshot a different look.

One more advantage of on-location headshots is the option of bringing props for your client’s headshot. For example, if they are a photographer, they can bring cameras. Or if they are a travel writer, they can bring suitcases. Or a fashion blogger with accessories.

All of these, with the various backgrounds work well to create the perfect headshot for your client.

Natural light headshots

Natural light headshots can give you the option of using props to create a more stylized portrait.

In Conclusion

Natural light headshots

Using props can also enhance the effect of your client’s headshots and portraits.

Given that you are using natural light as your main source for your client’s headshots and portraits means that you will be able to offer more variety to your client. This is a great advantage because it can give your client the chance to use the photographs for different purposes.

Furthermore, your client will have more natural and authentic headshots versus more traditional studio headshot, which is becoming more and more popular as well.

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