Category: Photography

  • How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    Photographic typologies are a unique and interesting form of photography. Have you ever made a collection of something? Stamps, buttons, figurines? If so, then you’ve made a typology, without even knowing it!

    Here’s how to translate your collecting skills into creating a mini photographic typology. It’s a fascinating way of comparing and contrasting almost anything visually!

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    This series is made up of broken cameras I’ve accumulated over time. With a strong concept, a plain background and simple subject matter, the differences between each camera are more pronounced.

    What is a Photographic Typology?

    A photographic typology is a study of “types”. That is, a photographic series that prioritizes “collecting” rather than stand-alone images.

    It’s a powerful method of photography that can be used to reshape the way we perceive the world around us. In fact, I’ve often heard viewers exclaim that they hadn’t looked at a subject that way before viewing it in a typology.

    By extracting visual elements and presenting them in a similarly consistent series, we can create a visual analysis of objects and the larger environment and its inhabitants – often without featuring the occupants themselves.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    This is a typological series I created of microwaved Polaroid paper.

    The History

    Photographic typologies are believed to have originated from August Sander’s 1929 series of portraits titled “Face of Our Time.” His work depicted portraits of Germans between World War I and II. Sander used typology to record social groupings and classes and the relationship between the different human experiences within. He photographed a wide selection of people including farmers, children, factory workers, upperclassmen, and actors to create a comprehensive example of German society. In fact, his work had such an impact that it was seized and the photographic plates destroyed by the Nazis in 1936.

    Sander recognized that displaying his portraits together as a collection revealed much more than stand-alone photographs. His work emphasized the similarities and differences between subjects by maintaining consistency in his overall theme, with all his subjects looking directly into the camera.

    Typology of guitar picks.

    Typology of guitar picks.

    The term “typology” was first used in 1959 when Bernd and Hilla Becher began documenting their architectural photographic series. Depicting decaying urban landscapes, each photograph was taken at exactly the same angle, from the same distance, with the same exposure settings. With the aim of recording a landscape in flux, the Becher couple described their subjects as “buildings where anonymity is accepted to be the style”.

    Their work influenced generations of photographic typologists. Jeff Brouws, a well-known photographer uses typology to explore “historical, contemporary [and] everyday aspects of the American cultural landscape”. And  John Cyr’s series depicting the developer trays of famous photographers has become a prime example of photographic typology.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    This typology highlights the different effects polarization has upon various plastic materials.

    Getting Started

    Concept

    Each typology begins with a single photograph. But deciding on a subject is easier said than done. To get started, pick a simple subject that will be easy to find in numbers. It’s funny how things become scarce once you begin looking for them. Some good ideas might include:

    • A rock collection or any collection with a similar concept or subject isolated on a white background.
    • Urban details like cracks in the sidewalk or drain-covers.
    • A variety of doors and windows.
    • Scenes or objects of a particular color.

    Of course, going for a walk and selecting a subject you encounter is a great way to get started too. Typologists go to great lengths to seek out subjects for a series. Focusing on simple details and objects that are often taken for granted is an effective way to get into the mindset of a typologist.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    A typology of aircraft flying overhead that I made by laying under the flight path of various airports.

    Shooting a Typology

    Typological studies can span over years and include hundreds of photographs. Creating a miniature typology of nine photos makes the task both easier, and more difficult. Because you are creating a mini typology, you want a project that clearly outlines the comparisons and contrasts within your subject of choice. Try to look for bold designs, sharp lines, or unusual subject matter.

    One of the golden rules in typological photography is consistency. Not only do you need to photograph a certain type of subject, you need to create a body of work that clearly points to the differences and similarities between each one.

    To eliminate distractions, try and maintain the same camera angle, lighting, and background. I find that for photographing objects, a clean white background works best. Try photographing at the same time of the day to maintain the same color temperature and lighting conditions.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    For my aviation series, I positioned myself directly under the aircraft for consistent results.

    Displaying a Typology

    Once you have collated a consistent body of work, it’s time to arrange your typology. Open a Photoshop document and begin dragging your photos onto the page. You want to adjust them so they are exactly the same size as all your other images. To help maintain even spaces between the images I use the New Guide tool.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    To help maintain even spaces between the images I use the  New Guide tool.

    How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology

    Divide your image up into equal portions with the Guide tool so that you can spread your typology out nice and evenly.

    Once evenly spaced, your mini typology is done!

    Conclusion

    Photographic typologies are a distinctive and unusual genre of photography. By classifying and combining images of similar subject matter, you can highlight the building blocks that form a cohesive image.

    Why not complement your collections with some photography? Or head out into the world and visually process an environment into types? I would love to see the results in the comments below.

    The post How to Create a Mini Photographic Typology by Megan Kennedy appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • A Quick Guide to Using Bounce Flash for More Natural-Looking Photos

    Creating a portrait using flash is a whole lot more than just pointing your flash at your subject and taking the shot. Learning how to use flash creatively opens up a variety of new lighting options – which you can use to make the picture you envision in your head show up on your camera’s LCD screen. In this article, we’re going to look at using bounce flash.

    Bounce flash is a handy trick you can use in a pinch to improve both the quality and amount of light in your finished picture using a flash unit right on top of your camera.

    A photo taken using bounce flash to light the subject

    The soft lighting for this image was created using a single flash, positioned on the camera and pointed directly up at the ceiling.

    What is bounce flash?

    Bounce flash is exactly what it sounds like. You aim the flash unit on your camera at a ceiling or nearby wall so that the light reflects off it and then back towards your subject.

    This may seem like a really roundabout way of providing illumination, but there are a number of excellent reasons why you would want to bounce your flash, such as:

    • It quickly creates soft light.
    • It can be used to create directional light.
    • Helps you avoid the drawbacks of direct flash.

    Let’s go through each of these points in more detail to get a better sense of how to use bounce flash to improve your photography.

    Left: On-camera flash rotated to bounce off a wall to the side. Right: Built-in flash that cannot be rotated or bounced.

    1. How does bounce flash create soft light?

    One of the most important factors in determining how soft the light in your image will be is the apparent size of the light source. Notice I said “apparent size” – not “actual size”.

    Your pop-up flash or attached speedlight are small light sources – so if you aim them directly at your subject you get harsh lighting. This is why photographers often use softboxes, umbrellas or other modifiers to create a larger source of light – which makes the light softer.

    You can use this same concept to quickly create a larger apparent light source by bouncing your flash off a roof or wall and spreading out the light.

    Direct flash is that which is aimed right at the subject.

    Direct flash – not flattering to the subject and creates a harsh shadow on the wall behind.

    Flash aimed at the ceiling to bounce the light and soften it.

    Flash bounced off the ceiling – much more even and softer lighting.

    2. How can bounce flash create directional light?

    Understanding the direction from which the light is coming – and using that to your advantage – can have a huge impact on the quality of your photos.

    Without flash, you’re at the mercy of whatever ambient lighting is available. When you are indoors in a dimly lit room, that ambient light is often rather unpleasant as the light usually comes from the ceiling overhead. This casts deep and dark shadows under people’s eyes – not at all a flattering look for a portrait.

    By setting up near a wall, you can bounce your flash off it and effectively create a new light source that sweeps in from the side. Think of it as creating a new window to add more light to the scene. This new light will fill in those ugly shadows for a much more pleasing look.


    The result of the flash being bounced off the wall to camera left is more directional light as seen here.

    3. How does bounce flash improve on direct flash?

    Sometimes a direct flash can significantly improve an image. Sometimes it results in redeye, awkward shadows, and a deer-in-headlights look.

    Using bounce flash solves the red-eye problem since that is caused by light reflected directly back at the camera from the back of the eyeball. When your main light is bouncing in from overhead or from the side, you can also say goodbye to large shadows cast by your subject onto the background.

    Lastly, direct flash creates boring lighting that flattens facial features and textures. Bounce flash results in more sculpted light that can be used to accentuate features and show depth.

    Example of a photo taken using direct flash as the key light

    This portrait was taken with direct flash, causing a harsh shadow on the back wall and a bad case of red-eye (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

    Example of photo taken without using any flash, high ISO

    Without using flash, I had to bump the ISO up to 6400 in order to keep the right exposure. The colors are dull and there is a lot of noise in the shot (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 6400)

    Example of a photo taken with bounce flash

    With bounce flash, the light on the model is soft and even. There is a glimmer of catch-light in the subject’s eyes and no shadow on the back wall. (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

    What do you need to get started with bounce flash?

    In order to shoot bounce flash, the bare minimum you will need is an external flash unit with a head that can swivel and tilt.

    If you are planning on buying a new flash, make sure to research how it can be maneuvered. Some cheaper models will provide more flash power than your standard in-camera pop-up flash, but if they can’t be adjusted to tilt and swivel then you won’t be able to use them for bounce flash lighting.

    Get a flash that can both rotate (swivel) and tilt (up and down) in order to do bounce flash.

    Balancing the light

    When shooting with flash in a bright room, you need to perform a balancing act in order to keep the light looking natural. This is the case with bounce flash as well.

    A flash picture essentially has two exposures:

    1. The ambient, or available light, which is all the light from windows, light bulbs, candles, chandeliers, etc.
    2. The light from your flash.

    As the photographer, you need to balance these two exposures to create the image you want. Fortunately, this doesn’t mean that you need to go around flicking light switches until you get the exact amount of brightness needed for each shot – your camera settings can control how much light will be in the final shot.

    In this image, the flash is too strong and the exposure is not well-balanced with the ambient light in the room. Exposure here was: 1/125th, f/4, ISO 250, flash was ETTL with +2 Flash Exposure Compensation.

    Aperture:

    Opening up the aperture will allow more light in, effectively increasing the flash power and also making the camera pick up more of the ambient light

    ISO:

    Increasing your ISO means the sensor “collects” more light. Again, this effectively increases the power from your flash as well as the influence of the ambient light.

    Shutter Speed:

    Here’s where a lot of control comes in. As long as you stay within your camera’s maximum sync-speed, your flash will influence the final shot regardless of the shutter speed. On the other hand, a long shutter speed will collect a lot of ambient light, and a short shutter speed will collect less, often drastically affecting the final image.

    It may take some time to get used to this balancing act with aperture, ISO, and shutter speed so that your bounce flash shots give you well-lit subjects with natural-looking lighting.

    The inside of a car, lit by bounce flash

    Firing a flash into the roof of the car creates soft, bounced light that really makes all the surface details shine.

    Other details to keep in mind

    Flash Power

    Since the light from your flash has to travel the extra distance to bounce off a wall or ceiling before reaching the subject, you can’t use your camera’s ETTL metering as is to determine the amount of power needed. Your camera assumes that you are using direct flash, so if you don’t make any adjustments, the flash power will always be a bit too low.

    Increase your camera’s flash exposure compensation depending on the distance to the surface you are using to bounce the light. For a typical ceiling in a home, this might be an adjustment of +1/3 or +2/3. If you are photographing in a hall with high ceilings, you may need to boost your flash by +1 or even more.

    A young man photographed using bounce flash

    A seamless background and soft light from bouncing the flash off a slanted ceiling gives this picture the type of quality you might expect from multiple flashes and a studio setup.

    Color

    Important question: What color is going to be reflected back at you if you shoot a flash into a pink wall?

    Yup, you guessed it – it’s gonna be pink. The light from your flash is going to take on whatever color it bounces off. So unless you’re going for that funky, unnatural pink look, you’ll want to make sure you bounce your flash off neutral-color surfaces like whites, grays or blacks. (Alternatively, you can shoot or convert to black and white.)

    Don’t blind people!

    As you start to discover how fun it is to swivel your flash around and create dramatic and interesting light, it can be easy to forget where your flash is pointed. If an unfortunate passerby steps between the wall and your flash just as you fire off a shot, they might get an unwelcome blast of light. It’s a good idea to check and make sure the coast is clear before snapping each shot.

    Give it a shot!

    Bounce flash is a handy trick in your arsenal to help you land that perfect shot when the situation allows for it. So tilt your flash up and give it a try!

    The post A Quick Guide to Using Bounce Flash for More Natural-Looking Photos by Frank Myrland appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • 7 Tips to Help You Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    Landscape photography is one of the most popular genres of photography and it’s easy to understand why. After all, every single person at some point in their life has probably looked at a landscape photograph of an epic scene with dramatic clouds and beautiful light and just thought, “Wow!” But as easy as it may seem, capturing stunning landscape images isn’t straightforward. Here are seven tips to help you capture the perfect landscape photo.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    1. Find Your Perfect Spot

    The starting point for any great landscape photo is your location. This, of course, means you have to start planning a shoot in advance to ensure you don’t waste time looking for it once you are on location. The first thing you need to do is decide what you are actually going to photograph. Is it a beautiful valley from lookout point? Or is it a historic castle perched on top of a cliff?

    This might come from your research into the area you are visiting or it might be a place someone has told you about. It could even be somewhere that you have already been to, but now want to photograph.

    Once you have an idea of where and what you are looking to photograph, you then need to look at the relevant maps to make sure that what you are planning to photograph is accessible. Then you need to delve in deeper and ensure that your view of that beautiful valley isn’t going to be obstructed by a big hill in front of you – this means using maps that show elevations. On top of all of this you also need to factor in the direction of the light and how that will affect your view.

    Ideally you want to end up with an exact spot of where you would like to photograph and which direction you are intending to look. The good news is that in today’s digital world there are tons of options to help you find out this information from the likes of Google maps, and apps like Photographer’s Ephemeris or PhotoPills.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    2. Light is Everything

    Any sort of outdoor photography relies heavily on the light that is available. For landscape photography, light is even more vital. The most amazing scene in front of you will look uninspiring and mundane under a blanket of white cloud. If you want to capture the perfect landscape photo, then you need to ensure that you are working with the best light possible.

    It’s no secret that most landscape photographers would recommend photographing in the early morning and late afternoon/evening. This is when you will get a low golden soft light from the sun that produces long shadows but that doesn’t mean you can’t photograph at any other time.

    You just need to ensure that you understand and have planned for the light you intend to use. For example, it may be that you want to capture a particular side of a cliff. It may be that the only time it is lit by the sun at that time of year is late morning. The most important thing is understanding and trying to organize your shoot for the best time that you possibly can.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    3. Compose Your Shot Perfectly

    One of the best things about landscape photography is that you often have plenty of time to prepare and compose your shot. That big mountain in front of you isn’t suddenly going to move like an animal does in wildlife photography. As long as you have planned your shoot well and have arrived at your location early, you should have enough time to really fine-tune your composition.

    The first thing I always do whenever I get to a location for a landscape shot is just to sit down and look around for 10-15 minutes, I recommend you try it. Not only does this help you evaluate the scene and think about the best composition, but it also helps you lower your heart rate (if you have had a long walk). It allows you to get over that initial awe that you often feel when you see an amazing landscape before you.

    When you feel you are ready, compose the shot and take a few test photos while you wait for the perfect light. Think about the scene in front of you. Should you show more of the foreground? If so, is there a point of interest to capture the viewer’s eyes? Or are there interesting mountains or sky, in which case you need to show more of the background? As I said earlier, keep taking test photos and recomposing your shot until you feel that you have the perfect composition and then wait for the perfect light.

    Clearly, on the odd occasion, you might have to work fast. For example, if you have a small break in a storm that allows the rays of the sun to get through, but the majority of the time if you have planned your shoot well, you should not be in a hurry.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    4. Use a Tripod

    For landscape photography a tripod is essential. If you want to capture the best possible photo, in the best possible light, you will have to use a tripod. The alternative usually means having to raise your ISO, which in turn means excessive noise in your photos that can affect the overall image sharpness.

    But the other advantage of using a tripod is that it can give you more options for your photography. For example, you can use slower shutter speeds to capture movements of clouds or water or give you a more elevated or lower point of view.

    Yes, they are a hassle to carry (you may want to invest in a good camera bag that you can strap your tripod to), but they are simply essential for landscape shots.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    5. Use Graduated ND filter

    Often the other most widely used accessory for landscape photography is graduated filters. One of the big challenges of landscape photography, especially in low light conditions is the difference in the light areas (the sky) and your dark areas (the foreground). For example, as it gets nearer to sunset, the sun drops lower on the horizon. This might mean that mountains obstruct it.

    You then have a situation where your sky is really bright as obviously it is still being lit by the sun, but your foreground is dark because the light from the sun is obstructed by the mountains. So, if you expose for the sky (light areas or highlights) then your foreground will be too dark and if you expose for the dark areas (shadows) your sky will be blown out ( completely white with no detail).

    To compensate for this difference in exposure settings needed, you can either use a technique called “exposure stacking”. That means taking multiple shots at different exposure levels and then merging them into one photo in post-processing (using layer blending or HDR techniques).

    Or, most landscape photographers prefer to capture photos as correctly as possible at the time of taking the photo. In this situation, the only way to do this is by using a graduated neutral density filter, which balances out the difference in the brightness between the top and bottom of the photo.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    6. Experiment With Shutter Speed

    As mentioned earlier, one of the great things about landscape photography is that you often have time to take a few different shots. Even during the short time when it’s sunset or sunrise, you will have plenty of time to experiment with different settings and even a few different compositions. So don’t be afraid to really push your settings to extremes.

    For example, set a really slow shutter speed of 30 seconds and if there is some wind you will see some amazing cloud movement streaks in the sky. Or if you are by the coast set a fast shutter speed to capture the waves crashing into the rocks. Play around with the settings until you have something that looks amazing and captures the scene perfectly.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    7. Post-Production

    Usually, the final step in any good landscape photo is some post-processing. This always seems to be a contentious issue as some photographers prefer to keep post-processing to a minimum and some like to really boost the image. Whatever your preference and way of working are, it comes down to personal opinion. But there are a few things that you should look at as a minimum.

    For example, making sure your images are straight, clear of dust spots, and correcting the white balance should be a must. You may also want to tweak the crop of the photo if it needs it. Beyond that, ensuring a good contrast and boosting the saturation will help your landscape image jump out.

    Generally speaking, every photo will benefit from some level of post-production. Some will need more and some less.

    How to Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

    Conclusion

    Landscape photography is an incredibly rewarding genre of photography. A great landscape shot often has the power to really capture the viewer’s attention which is why it’s no surprise that it’s also one of the most popular branches of photography.

    The post 7 Tips to Help You Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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  • Do’s And Don’ts Of A Corporate Photo Shoot

    Whether it’s a newly minted company or a well-established one, companies want their brand to stand out. One of the best ways to do so is with highly professional, well-executed corporate photography. Every business can benefit greatly from professional photographs. With the online marketplace continuously expanding its reach, the quality of your photographs will make all the difference. After all, Continue Reading

    The post Do’s And Don’ts Of A Corporate Photo Shoot appeared first on Photodoto.


    Photodoto

  • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People

    Being an introverted photographer is a challenge, especially if you actually enjoy photographing people. As introverts, we tend to be happiest on our own, with family or with close friends. We avoid large groups and people that we don’t know well. We’re likely the last to speak up in a group setting.

    Unfortunately, not “getting out there” holds us back from achieving some of our goals as photographers. But when we do get out there, we get tired or burn out from people quickly. But it is possible for introverts to actually thrive among people and even run a successful people oriented photography business.

    Introverts guide photographing people 1

    Families cherish their home. I love making newborn photos for families in their own home. It’s so much easier for them than packing up their baby and venturing off for photos. The experience is all the more enjoyable for the family if they also happen to be introverted!

    Let’s go through both the strengths and challenges of being an introverted photographer so that you can enjoy photographing people to your full potential.

    Let’s Begin With the Challenges

    It’s well known among photographers that constraints and challenges can actually help you become more creative. When you’re limited in some way, it forces you to find new ways around obstacles to achieve your goals.

    So don’t worry that introversion can be a challenge to photographing people or becoming better known as a photographer. Finding ways to overcome these challenges will make you better than you would have been without them!

    Introverts guide photographing people 2

    Relationships flourish in smaller groups.

    1) The Challenge of Being Around People

    As an introvert, you likely keep to yourself outside of school or work. Evenings and weekends are spent on your own or with family. You avoid crowds and would prefer to get together with close friends and have deeper conversations.

    Of course, none of this is a problem on its own. But as a photographer, you may not be as ambitious as you would like to be when it comes to photographing people. Whether you’re an amateur or professional photographer, or even running a business, sticking to yourself instead of being out among people means you’re missing opportunities.

    You’re missing out on learning from other photographers or collaborating on a project together. Running a successful photography business will be difficult without the connections you’ll make among families, photographers, and fellow entrepreneurs.

    Introverts guide photographing people 3

    The scene suggests a neglectful mom, but that’s not quite what was going on. I often strive for a little humor in my photos!

    A danger of not getting out there is that you might end up spending too much time on social media. But social media can present us with an illusion of how great other people’s lives are.

    You’ll see the exciting lives being lived by everyone else and think that you’re boring and have nothing to share. You might get the impression that everyone else’s photography business is booming. Their mini sessions are booked solid, their summer is filled with weddings, and they’re a great success compared to you. But social media is much different than the real world of people.

    How to Overcome the Challenge of Being Around People

    If you love photographing people, you’ll need to focus on making yourself get out there more. A little practice will get you in the habit of spending more time with people. Think of it as exercising your social muscles.

    Stop missing out on opportunities. Exercise those social muscles by finding a camera club or local Facebook group for photographers. Start now, and make it your goal to track down a group of photographers in your area in which to participate.

    Once you’ve found a group, especially if it’s quite large, find one photographer to connect with. Maybe even another introvert. Start a project with them. Maybe you can assist each other in a project you’ve been wanting do.

    If you’re extremely introverted, look around at what the extroverts are doing and pretend to be one. Listen to how easily they talk with new people and how the conversation just seems to flow. Begin to imitate them. You should also have some leading questions ready for new people you meet.

    Introverts guide photographing people 4

    Little guys want to grow up to be as strong as their daddy.

    2) The Challenge of Being “Out There” Too Much

    Getting out there and among people will transform you as an introverted photographer. You’ll begin to get some of those portrait photography projects started, connect with interesting photographers, and maybe make a good new friend. However, after all this increased social interaction, you may find yourself tired out.

    My first job in photography was a school photographer. I was taking traditional school portraits for up to 200 students per day. I had to greet them, make them feel comfortable, pose them, coax a great smile from them and wish them, “good day!” At the rate of 1000 students per week, I was exhausted! Not physically exhausted but, socially exhausted. The part of me that interacts with people was tired out.

    The danger of becoming socially exhausted for long periods of time is that you’ll risk resenting people for stealing your time, you’ll become too exhausted to give your subjects the attention they deserve, and you’ll eventually burn out.

    Introverts guide photographing people 5

    Rest is one of the most important parts of life. It comes naturally to cats and some babies, but not always for busy grown-ups.

    No doubt, many introverts running a photography business burn out from being socially exhausted. If only they had overcome this challenge, they would still be enjoying their photography business.

    How to Overcome Being “Out There” Too Much

    I learned an important lesson from my first portrait photography job. After a lot of social interaction, I need to rest from people. It’s similar to resting from intense workouts at the gym. Give your muscles a rest and you’ll be ready to go again in the morning.

    Introverts need to take a rest from being social. After resting, you’ll be energized and strong again. Resting doesn’t necessarily mean sleeping. As an introvert, it means spending time on your own. You can spend this time reading, writing, editing photos or enjoying a movie. It’s just a rest from social interaction.

    Introverts guide photographing people 6

    Don’t resist rest. It’ll bring back your energy and joy for life.

    Look for signs of being socially tired or exhausted. When your social energy is drained, take a break. It could be for a couple hours or a couple days. But as soon as you’re ready, get back out there.

    If you run a photography business then you should take part of the week to rest from social interaction too. You could spend that part of the week editing your photos. That way you’re still working on projects that need to get finished but you’re resting at the same time.

    3) The Challenge of Making Sales

    We’ve covered “getting out there” and recovering from social interaction. But what about something like sales? If you want to convince people to be involved in your photography projects, sell your prints, or run a photography business, you need to be able to sell.

    The key is to find a way to “sell” that works for you as an introvert. Don’t try to be somebody you’re not. Instead, work with your nature, overcome your challenges, and develop a method that works for you.

    When you talk with other photographers or see them on social media, does it seem like they’re getting more work than you? Maybe it’s because they’re getting out there more, they’re talking, they’re enthusiastic, they know how to sell naturally.

    How to Overcome Weaknesses in Sales

    Selling doesn’t just mean making money. It means convincing people you’ve got something worthwhile to offer. Maybe it means persuading someone to be part of your project.

    You already know that the first step is getting out there more. The more you’re around other people, the more opportunities you’ll have to sell. You’ve got ideas for doing that now. But there are other ways to sell yourself that will work comfortably with your introverted nature.

    First, focus your efforts on being an incredible photographer. When people experience your photography services they will naturally refer you to other customers. That means they’re doing the selling for you.

    Second, the extroverts that you have been getting connected with will sell for you. I constantly get referrals from extroverts who tell people about me. Extroverts are well connected with lots of people and will love to discuss your photography work if it’s good.

    Remember, when your work is good, other people will sell it for you.

    Finally, turn your website into a salesperson. Your website should have a good sales message on it. Everything that you would say in person should be on your website. But because it’s on your website, you write it once and then it does the talking for you.

    People will find you as they search for the services you offer. If they like what they read on your website, they’ll want to hire you. You don’t have to go out there and sell yourself, let people come to you instead.

    Your Strengths as an Introvert

    By now, hopefully, you can see how to overcome the challenges of being an introvert. You can exercise your social muscles, get all the rest you need, and let your friends and website sell for you.

    But there are advantages to being an introvert, so let’s look at your strengths.

    Introverts guide photographing people 7

    Sometimes one-on-one time is the best.

    1) You Work Well on Your Own

    Because you do so well on your own, you’re especially suited to landscape and nature photography. You can pursue these projects on your own and then share them with the group later.

    Street photography is ideal for you as well. You don’t have to interact with people to do street photography. Candid photography is perfect for capturing street or travel scenes. You can stand back and enjoy watching people while pursuing a candid or photojournalistic style.

    Since you can work well on your own, you can spend a lot of time studying photography in books and online. Taking lots of time to learn, think and reflect will allow you to go much deeper with photography. Remember, the better you get, the more word will travel about you.

    Running a photography business takes a lot of lonely work behind the scenes (learning, planning, editing, marketing). Since you’re perfectly happy to work on your own, there will be fewer distractions while getting your work done. Extroverts really struggle to spend long hours on their own, but this is where you excel.

    Don’t forget to combine your rest periods with study or work periods. When you’re resting from social interaction, use that time to do important business tasks on your own.

    2) You Will Become a Better Communicator

    As you interact with more groups of people and work hard to communicate your ideas in person or on your website, your ability to articulate yourself will improve. As I work on my family photography website, I make little adjustments to my sales message. Over time, my message has become very strong and families love working with me.

    Remember to watch how extroverts interact, and you can begin to imitate them so that your social skills will improve.

    3) You Excel in One-on-One Conversation

    As an introvert, you’re likely really good with one person at a time. This is good news because there are many other introverts out there that feel the same way. They may be drawn to you as a portrait photographer.

    Consider working on your sales message with another photographer. The two of you can help each other flesh out your thoughts and find the perfect wording. It’s a lot more fun to craft a sales message with a like-minded photographer when there is no pressure of actually selling. Remember, that message is going to do the talking for you later.

    Over to You

    As an introvert, you can thrive among people and run a successful photography business photographing people.

    Exercise your social muscles and recover by resting from social interaction. Without that rest, you risk burning out and resenting people.

    Let’s continue the conversation. Leave a comment below letting me know how you struggle with photographing people. Together, we can overcome our challenges and grow as people and photographers.

    The post The Introverts Guide to Photographing People by Mat Coker appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

    At some point in your photography journey you may be fascinated by pictures capturing living creatures in great detail, flowers close-up, and in general intimate vistas, which may go unnoticed in our daily viewing habits. Such shots are commonly described as macro photography.

    Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography - red flower

    The purpose of this article is to provide you with theoretical and practical insight, to help you select lenses for macro photography with focal lengths suitable for your style.

    What is macro photography?

    The Collins English Dictionary defines macrophotography as: extremely close-up photography in which the image on the film is as large as, or larger than, the object. Extending this definition into the world of digital, the word “film” can be replaced by “sensor”.

    The terms magnification and reproduction ratio (RR) are two ways of quantifying this definition. They describe how big the capture on the sensor is as compared with the subject you are photographing.

    • “As large as” means that whatever object is captured it is the same size om the sensor as it is in real life (magnification of 1x or x1 and RR of 1:1).
    • “Larger than” means if the image on the sensor is N times the actual life size of the subject, the magnification is then Nx and the RR is N:1.

    An important distinction has to be made between the image on the sensor and the printed image. 1cm of object captured on 1cm of sensor may appear on a typical 10x15cm print as much bigger than 1cm.

    It is important to note that not all lenses are capable of reaching 1x (1:1) magnification, even if they contain macro in their name. So it is important during your gear selection to know what is a true macro versus a marketed as a “macro” lens. This does not mean that you cannot and will not make breathtaking close-up pictures with that lens, it just means that you will only able to reach lower magnifications and RRs (e.g. a 0.25x magnification = RR of 1:4)

    Now that we have established the realm of macro photography, there are a couple of other terms that are essential in this article.

    Other definitions

    Minimum focusing distance (MFD). This is a lens’s construction characteristic. According to Nikon, MFD is the shortest distance at which a lens can focus. In the case of DSLR Cameras, the focus distance to the subject is measured from the focal plane mark on the camera body, not from the front of the lens. MFD is important because 1:1 or life size RR only happens at the MFD of any true macro lens.

    2 focal plane mark - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

    The focal plane mark on a D750 is shown below to the left of the strap handle.

    Minimum working distance (MWD). This is the distance from the subject to the front of the lens barrel (excluding the lens cap if used), while the lens is set to its maximum magnification (i.e its MFD).

    On the web, there are various tools to help calculate MWD. This is a lens and camera combination characteristic, as different cameras contribute differently to the MWD (even if minimally so). A simple graph illustrating MFD and MWD is shown below.

    MFD MWD - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

    The purpose of this article is to practically demonstrate the difference in Minimum Working Distance between two lenses of different focal lengths, as well as some implications that arise from this difference.

    Gear and settings

    For the examples used in this article, two macro lenses, the Tokina 35mm f2.8 and the Sigma 150mm f2.8 were mounted on a Nikon D750. This will demonstrate the MWD difference between two considerably different focal lengths (short versus long).

    4 Tokina 35 Sigma150

    5 D750 - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

    The supporting platform (all-important for macro photography) consisted of a SIRUI T-025X carbon-fiber tripod, a Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Tripod Head and a Velbon Super Magnesium Slider Macro Rail. A Nikon ML-L3 remote was used to trigger the shutter to avoid adding additional vibrations.

    6 Platform tripod - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

    Quick comparison

    Let’s start with a 1:1 macro shot of an everyday item like a coin. In the photographs below the coin was shot 1:1 with both the 35mm and 150mm lenses. Rulers were placed to show the sensor size of 35.9 x 24.0 mm. The difference of a few mm is probably ruler set-up error on my part.

    35mm lens

    Ruler in cm and mm showing the size of the image on the sensor. This is 1:1 which would be 24x36mm.

     

    The distance needed to shoot the coin at 1:1 with the 35mm lens.

    150mm lens

    1:1 shot showing the images size on the sensor, 36mm which is fully 100% for a full frame sensor 24x36mm.

     

    The distance needed to shoot the coin at 1:1 with the 150mm lens.

    I measured an MWD of 19.5cm for the 150mm and only 1.8cm for the 35mm!

    To see how this big difference affects a real-world shooting scenario, the owner of a close by flower shop allowed me to use his grounds and beautiful flowers. Continue reading for more info on this.

    Doing macro photography of flowers with different focal lengths

    To obtain the 1:1 photo shown below, the 35mm lens needs to actually be on top of the bulb as shown in the second shot.

    10 150 bulb

    A similar shot was done using the 150mm lens.

    9 35 MWD

    35mm lens in close to get a 1:1 shot.

    11 150 MWD

    While getting a similar photo with the 150mm lens is much more comfortable.

    12 screen

    The settings for both flower macro shots were as seen here.

    Focal length matters even more in macro photography

    Macro photography is exciting. In the words of Roman Vishniac, “In nature every bit of life is lovely. And the more magnification we use, the more details are brought out, perfectly formed, like endless sets of boxes within boxes.”

    However, in my experience, macro has more gear and technical considerations than other popular subjects (e.g., portrait or landscape), especially as magnification goes up. One primary point of concern is the Minimum Working Distance of the lens used (true macro or not). This will determine significantly, in my view, the ease of use of the lens and the subsequent willingness you may (or may not) show towards doing macro photography.

    Working distance issues

    Apart from static subjects, where you may be okay to handle a short MWD. But if at some point you want to shoot bees or other living critters, then most probably you will want a longer MWD. This will help you to not scare away your subject and also to avoid being bitten/stung by it.

    Additionally and importantly, a longer working distance will allow access to more light (natural or flash). You can imagine the limitations trying to introduce extra light to the 35mm setup shown above. Things will get even more cramped if you introduce closeup lenses or do lens reversal to reach even higher magnifications.

    A rough proposed working classification of focal lengths in macro photography could be as follows:

    • Focal lengths up to 60mm – Useful in product photography (e.g. jewelry) and small objects that can be approached and lit in a controlled environment.
    • 60-150mm – Usable with caution for insects, flowers, and small objects from a greater distance.
    • Above 150mm – Ideal for critters where additional working distance and additional lighting options are preferred.

    Finally, there are other considerations, such as perspective differences due to varying focal lengths. These are more aesthetic than technical and not in the scope of this article.

    The post Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography by Konstantinos Skourtis appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Make Your Digital Photo Look Like a Polaroid Using Photoshop

    Nostalgic for the printed photos? Polaroids are coming back as trend as are many vintage things. Do you want to achieve this effect while still maintaining the advantages of the shooting digital? In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to make your digital photo look like a Polaroid and even like a stack of Polaroids in a very easy way using Photoshop.

    From digital to Polaroid effect intro

    Make a new document in Photoshop

    The size of the image in an original Polaroid (just the image without the white frame) is 3.1 inches by 3.1 inches. Therefore, you need to open a new document in Photoshop with those measurements. If you are going to keep the result digital then you can leave it at 72 dpi (dots per inch). If you want to print it then set it to 300 dpi. Make sure the background color is black and then click OK.

    Polaroid effect tutorial size document

    Double-Click on this background so that you make it a layer, that is by default called Layer 0. Then make a new empty layer by going to Menu > Layers > New Layer.

    Add the white frame

    Now you need to do the outer frame which is the white border of the Polaroid. In order to make sure it’s centered, you can do it in two steps. First, go to Menu > Image > Canvas Size and this will open a pop-up window. The original Polaroid has a width of 3.5 inches, regardless you put it as both width and height. Make sure the point in the grid below is on the center square.

    Polaroid effect tutorial canvas size white frame

    Now you just need to make the bottom part of the frame larger. For that, go again to the Canvas Size but this time the point should be in the top square. Now fill this layer with white color by going to the paint bucket tool, make sure white is the foreground color and then click on the layer.

    Polaroid effect tutorial canvas size white frame2

    Add the background and a drop shadow

    Create a new layer that will be your background. It can be white for now, but you can also add a texture like wood, for example, if you want to make it look like a table top, and so on. Go to Canvas Size and make it bigger once again. You can choose the size that’s best for you, here I’m doing 5.5×6.5 inches.

    Select the layer that contains the frame (the white rectangle) and click the Add a Layer Style button at the bottom of the palette (fx). Select Drop Shadow and in the window that will pop-up, you can choose your settings. I’m using a 45-degree angle, with a distance of 30, a size 10, and setting the opacity to 29. You can set all these however you want, just move them around until you like how it looks. Make sure the preview option is ticked so that you see what you’re doing.

    Polaroid effect tutorial drop shadow

    Put your image inside the frame

    Up until now, you have prepared your Polaroid and you can use this process for any photo or save it as a template.

    To put your photo inside the frame you need to open your raw image and make the adjustments you want until you are satisfied, as you would do normally.

    Now open the image as a Smart Object by holding Shift to make the Open Image button turn into Open Object and click on that. Another way to do it is to click the link at the bottom of the image window and in the pop-up window tick the option “Open in Photoshop as Smart Object”.

    For more information about Smart Objects you can see my previous article on that topic here: How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop.

    Polaroid effect tutorial open as smart object

    Now drag the thumbnail of that image into the layers palette of the Polaroids document you’ve been working on and it will be added as a Smart Object there as well. Now you can choose the image and keep working on the Polaroids.

    Make sure the Smart Object (your image layer) is on top of all the other layers (with your black square directly underneath). Right-click on the image layer and select Create a Clipping Mask from the menu. Then use the Move tool to position the image to best compose it within the square.

    Polaroid effect tutorial clipping mask

    Oops, notice my layers are in the incorrect order here. Make sure your image is on TOP of the black square.

    Try out some backgrounds to make it more interesting!

    How to make a stack of Polaroids

    If you want to make a stack of Polaroids follow these directions.

    Select all the layers except the background and put them into a group by going to Menu > Layers > Group Layers. Now make as many copies of it as you’d to have like in your stack. You can do this just by dragging the group into the New Layers button at the bottom.

    Finally just give a little twist to each one (use Edit > Transform > Rotate). There you go!

    Digital to Polaroid Stack Effect tutorial

    Digital to Polaroid Effect tutorial

    Or you can play around with the composition. Remember you can also change the image that appears in each frame.

    Digital to Polaroid Stack wide Effect tutorial

    Extra effects

    If you like to give your digital photo a printed quality but you don’t want to do a Polaroid, try curling the corner as if it was a page turning in only three steps.

    1. Draw a square selection in the corner and draw a Gradient inside it with the Gradient tool set to go from black to white.

    Tutorial Curl Turn Page effect 1

    2. Go to Menu > Edit > Warp and drag the corner to create a curl.

    Tutorial Curl Turn Page effect 2

    3. Add a Drop Shadow like you did with the Polaroids.

    Tutorial Curl Turn Page effect

    Give it a try

    So have fun making Polaroids in Photoshop and share your questions, comments and Polaroid compositions in the comments section below.

    The post How to Make Your Digital Photo Look Like a Polaroid Using Photoshop by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Pros an Cons of Shooting Alone Versus Being a Group Photographer?

    An age-old question in life, not just photography, is are you a pack animal or a lone ranger? Everyone reading this will have their own answer to this question, it’s not even a black and white answer. In this article, the question posed is whether you shoot alone or are more of a group photographer?

    Let’s take a look at the two different approaches to doing photography, and then compare them to see which one is better. Whether one is better is really just subjective, but depending on your favored form of photography you’ll certainly have a preference.

    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Joining other photographers is great, although they sometimes get in your shot!

    Photographing solo

    The preference for many photographers is to photograph alone. There are a lot of good reasons why this is best, so let’s take a look at a few of them:

    • Get into the zone – To achieve the best photos, being distracted by others is rarely a recipe for success. Photographers will often get into a zone where a heightened sense of the environment around them will lead to better photos.
    • Set your own schedule – When you visit a place, and how long you spend there are very important factors in photography. Whether you’re a street photographer waiting for that perfect moment, or a landscape shooter photographing blue hour, the schedule matters.
    • Choose where to visit – Equally important, and related to the point above is where you choose to visit and shoot. Even if you travel with a fellow photographer, they may well want to visit a different place to suit their style of photography. Shooting alone allows you to be totally focused on your goal.
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Photographing alone is the favored choice of many photographers, it helps you get more in the zone.

    • Get your own angle – There will never be another photographer standing in the way of your composition when you photograph alone. Equally, you don’t need to worry about getting in the way of someone else, or getting to the best angle second.
    • Curate your own photo –  Those who do portrait photography will know that creative control of the pose and position of your model are key. As is forming a close working relationship with your model. When photographing without other photographers these things are easier to achieve.
    • Learn from your own mistakes – You’ll make mistakes along the way, even those with experience do. It might mean adding to your knowledge after you have made your mistake, but the next time you photograph this self-improvement will take you up a level.
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    The chance to work one to one with a model means you can work on your own concepts and ideas.

    Photographing with a group

    Of course, sharing your photography with others has some drawbacks, but there are also a lot of positives to photographing with other people. So whether you’re a solo or group photographer take a look at this list, and decide for yourself if you can benefit from joining a group, even if only occasionally.

    • Share your experience – The act of exploring and seeing a new place is often more pleasurable when you have company. You may even be able to model for each other if the location would be better enhanced with a person in the scene.
    • Pool your resources – Photography can be expensive when it comes to equipment, model hire, and location rental. These costs can be cut considerably by joining forces with other photographers.
    • Share knowledge – One of the very best ways to learn about photography is from other photographers, that’s why you’re here right? Whether you’re experienced or new to photography you’ll find everyone can offer advice or tips that could improve your work.
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Joining a group of photographer allows you to dip into their pool of knowledge.

    • Safety – Carrying an expensive piece of camera gear? Heading out late at night for some photography? Having a few people with you when you photograph makes it a lot safer.
    • Collaborations – To create a group project, you need a group! So getting to know some fellow photographers will facilitate this. Likewise, photographing a model often takes more than one person, sharing duties to hold the light stand helps a lot.
    • Share your photos – Groups of photographers often share their work either each other. Sharing your photos is a great way to improve your photography, as you often get feedback on the photos you have shared.
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    This group of photographers was on a photo walk which I organized.

    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    This is a photo taken on that photo walk, it was later shared with the participants through social media.

    Being a solo or group photographer, which is best?

    There are lots of pros and cons for shooting alone or with a group of photographers. The best answer is to make time to do both. Join a group perhaps once a week, and photograph by yourself on other occasions.

    The genre of photography you do will also have a big impact on your choice, portrait photographers using strobes often need a team. On the other hand, if you’re a landscape or street photographer photographing alone may be best.

    There is a middle solution though. The group doesn’t have to be large, perhaps only two or three. When all the photographers share the same interest, it can be just like photographing alone, only you have a group.

    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Are you a solo or group photographer? Why not be both? My friend and fellow dPS writer Pete DeMarco is someone with whom I’ve often photographed. We allowed each other enough space to photograph “alone” but then meet later after we’re done shooting.

    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Myself and Pete enjoy taking cityscape photos, so meeting up to do the same style of photography makes sense.

    What kind of group should you join?

    There are plenty of types of groups that you can join if you’re interested in meeting some new people. Not all of them even require you to meet other photographers in person, we do after all live in a digital global age. So let’s take a look at a few possibilities.

    • Attend a photo walk – These are often one-off events and can involve large crowds. They’re great for meeting a lot of new faces, not always so good for taking the best photo. A very well known event like this is Scott Kelby’s worldwide photo walk, held once a year. An alternative idea to a photo walk is a potluck photography party, why not try it out?
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    This steel wool fire spinning photography event was organized by a photography club.

    • Join a photo club – A great way to meet other photographers on a regular basis, and therefore learn from them. Groups like this often organize photography outings or perhaps hire a model for the club members to work with and photograph.
    • Online communities – In reading and participating with this website you are part of a photography community. Even though not in person, participating online is a great way to gain knowledge. There is always the possibility of travel as well, you can meet people on a trip perhaps.
    • Take part in a workshop – Meeting other photographers on a workshop is a great way to socialize, and learn at the same time.
    Do you Shoot Alone or are you More of a Group Photographer?

    Joining a group of photographer allows you to share the cost of hiring a model. It also means you lose control of pose and position. You also need to avoid getting into each other’s photos.

    Are you a solo or a group photographer?

    So which kind of photographer are you? A solo or a group photographer? Are there any other reasons why you like to photograph alone, or in a group?

    If you photograph alone, why not reach out to a group and become part of a community. Although it’s nice to photograph alone, there is a raft of benefits to joining up with others. You’ll likely make some new friends, the type you can form a close friendship with through a shared interest.

    The post Pros an Cons of Shooting Alone Versus Being a Group Photographer? by Simon Bond appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • SLC-0L-01: Flash or Continuous, Light is Light

    In Lighting 101, 102 and 103, we learned to control our flashes. In the Strobist Lighting Cookbook, we're expanding that approach to learn to move in a fluid way between flash and continuous light. Read more »
    Strobist

  • 3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    An Introduction to Infrared Photography

    Infrared light is not visible to human eyes. The light your eyes see is that within what is referred to as the “visible spectrum” and infrared (IR) lies beyond this band. Thus Infrared (IR) Photography requires special equipment beyond your standard camera, to tap into this “unseen” world.

    Over the years, IR photography has not only become more accessible but is also less complicated with more inexpensive options. If you have been exposed to infrared images, you immediately notice how the look stands out. While some find it rather eerie, others are intrigued by the way the ordinary transforms.

    An Introduction to Infrared Photography

    In this article, we’ll look at a few things you need to know to get started with infrared photography.

    1) What gear do you need to shoot IR?

    Filters

    If you are just starting to explore this haunting genre of photography, a filter is an easy addition to your gear list. It is least expensive and a good way to gauge how much further you want to delve into and invest in infrared photography.

    Infrared filters allow infrared light to hit your camera’s sensor, while at the same time prevent visible light from doing so.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Most manufacturers offer infrared filters and they can range from screw-on to slide-in filter systems. The Hoya R72 is a popular screw-on infrared filter. Interestingly this filter allows just a little bit of visible light through as well, which makes it a nice introductory filter to the world of infrared.

    If you already have or prefer to use slide-in systems, note that the infrared filter should be closest to the camera body, to avoid any unwanted visible light hitting your camera sensor.

    Different brand filters render color differently as they may address specific ranges of the infrared spectrum. The plus side is that you can experiment with different filters until you find the one that suits your vision.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Converted Camera

    If you are committed to doing infrared, a more permanent option is having a dedicated infrared camera body. When a DSLR camera is converted, the infrared blocking filter (that resides in front of your DSLR sensor) is removed. It is a more expensive option, but the benefits include using your camera similar to how you usually do, with normal exposure values.

    Note: once a camera has been converted, its sole use is infrared photography – you cannot take “regular” images with it any longer.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Film

    With film photography on the rise again, infrared film is readily available and relatively cheap. Developing this film though may nullify that cost-benefit, as you will have to find a lab that has the ability to process infrared.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    2) Camera Settings

    RAW and JPEG

    Shoot both RAW and JPEG files in the beginning. As with any images taken with a DSLR, RAW gives you the most scope when processing. If you are just starting out with infrared photography though, you may be horrified when you look at the back of your camera and see a flat pinkish red image staring back at you.

    The JPEG option allows you to see a little more differentiation and determine how to adjust your settings. Believe it or not, with time you will be able to look at those dull pinkish RAW files and be able to tell if they are good or not.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Exposure

    If you are using infrared filters, you will need longer exposures when you block out the visible light. So on a bright sunny day, you can work with exposure times between 30-120 seconds, at f/8. Thus a tripod is a must!

    If your camera is infrared converted, your settings will vary depending on the amount of light as with normal exposures. Using the sunny day example, your settings could be 1/125th or faster at f/8.

    White Balance

    A topic all of its own, white balance is important in infrared photography. Refer to your camera’s manual on setting custom white balance, as this is your friend when it comes to infrared.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    3) Post-processing Infrared

    Auto Tone

    As previously mentioned, when you shoot RAW images your output is a dull pinkish red image as shown below.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Infrared RAW image straight out of the camera.

    There are several methods to start your infrared file processing, including applying a DNG profile conversion tool. One of the more common ways is to import it into Photoshop and apply Auto Tone.

    Note: You can also do both of these processes if you wish.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Auto Tone applied to an infrared image.

    Channel Swap

    Next, to get those blue skies you need to Channel Swap your colors. While channel swapping is an essential part of infrared photography processing, there are mixed views on which channels to swap to what values. The following are some of the values that are used. Experiment until you find which one works for you:

    Changing the Red and Blue Channels only:

    • Red Channel: Red=0, Green=0, Blue=100
    • Blue Channel: Red=100, Green=0, Blue=0

    Changing all the channels:

    • Red Channel: Red=0, Green=0, Blue=100
    • Blue Channel: Red=100, Green=0, Blue=0
    • Green Channel: Red=0, Green=100, Blue=0

    or another option:

    • Red Channel: Red=0, Green=0, Blue=100
    • Blue Channel: Red=100, Green=100, Blue=-100
    • Green Channel: Red=0, Green=0, Blue=100
    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    After Channel Swapping has been applied.

    Final Processing

    Final touches include adjusting your hue/saturation and your curves and levels adjustment in Photoshop. It all comes down to your personal taste. Then there is the whole other topic of black and white infrared photography. Read more on that here: How to Enhance your Black and White images with Infrared Photography.

    3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography

    Conclusion

    Infrared photography is a small but growing niche of photography, that has evolved with time. It offers creative choices and opens a whole new dimension to explore. You can start off simple with filters and then graduate to converting your camera to be a full-time infrared camera in time.

    If you have tried infrared photography please share your tips and images in the comments below. If you haven’t, please let me know if you have any other questions.

    The post 3 Things You Need to Know to Get Started with Infrared Photography by Nisha Ramroop appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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