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How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

12 Sep

sunset photo - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I have a really cool idea for you. One that is so simple, and yet so amazingly impactful, that if you start utilizing this concept now you will immediately see the benefits in your photography and you will create better photos.

I come across some very common issues in my workshops. One huge problem is that the photos people take are often too busy. The subject doesn’t stand out and there isn’t a clear relationship between the subject and the elements around it.

Or, in reverse, the photos are so focused on the subject, that nothing else is in the frame, so the photo ends up being relatively flat.

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - forest stream and mossy rocks

Everything within your frame is an element: the expanse and color of the sky, the child playing in the background, the rush of cars behind your subject, etc.

Each element that is within your frame must have a function, a purpose and must contribute to the overall image. If it doesn’t, it shouldn’t be there.

Your job as a photographer is to break down the scene you want to photograph into its elements. Then arrange the elements into an interesting and complementary combination.

rolling hills Tuscany - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

Nature photography by a street photographer

For this article, I have used photos from a project I did in Tuscany. For seven weeks, I stayed in a castle over the winter with my family and a bunch of other traveling families. I spent my time wandering in the quiet hills, photographing. It is an intensely beautiful place.

I am using these photos as examples because I am not a nature photographer. I usually photograph cities, often at dawn, when the light is beautiful and the streets are empty.

So I wanted to show you how I approached a subject I love, but am not super experienced at shooting, and how by using this technique I got some pretty awesome photos.

cemetery in Tuscany - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I like to always be developing as a photographer, to push myself beyond what I am already doing. So being out in the silent forests and undulating hills of Tuscany on a winter’s morning was incredibly inspiring.

Nature can be notoriously tricky to photograph. Wandering out into a forest with thousands of trees and millions of other elements that all look the same or similar, can be a case of where do I start?

You are not just waiting for the perfect moment to happen and then to photograph it. You are creating the photograph with the elements around you.

castle silhouette - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

I am going to use examples of how I approached organizing the elements in the world around me into compelling photos. So let’s get started!

Shapes and Lines

The first example is the photograph below, made almost totally of interesting shapes and lines. Can you see them? These lines and shapes were the elements I used to create the image.

One day, I was walking along this path and the first thing that piqued my interest was the lines that the path created.

rural path and stone wall - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

They are really strong, so I started to play around with them. From further away the lines were pretty straight and not very interesting, just heading off into the distance. However, as I started to get closer to the curve of the path, the lines of the path started to turn. Then the fence started to come into play and echo the twist of the path. I thought that was interesting.

Now another element I worked into the shot (and I took a lot of shots of the path, going from left to right, and moving further away) was the wall. What a cool wall! The relationship between the chaotic, curved fence, the smooth curve of the path, the strong lines of color, worked really well with the element of the heavy stone wall made up of oblong or square shapes.

So, from an elements perspective, this photo is almost entirely made up of lines and shapes, placed together to form an interesting composition.

My final flourish (and I like to do this in my images because I don’t always want the photo to be too clean) is waiting for the rise of mist. This creates a pleasing contrast to the organized shapes, a little bit of nature and wildness.

Silhouettes

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - trees in silhouette

Onto my next image. What do you think are the strong elements in this photo above?

Most obvious are the silhouettes of the trees. I was very inspired by the beauty of the sky. The soft pinks and blues, the sun and the little stretch of clouds. But photos of skies, of really simple things, can be pretty boring. So I was trying to move beyond just pretty.

What I love about photographing silhouettes of bare trees is how they add such strong and intriguing shapes to photos. The branches can look wild and chaotic, but they are also contained and ordered by their structure.

I could have taken the photo of the trees against the sky as it was – two very strong elements of sky and trees. But I wanted to add a more grounding element, something that didn’t really look like an important element, but somehow brought it all together.

For that, I have used the view of the forest running along the bottom of the image. And of course, the brilliant sunburst is important.

Detail

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos - signs in the forest

In the photo above is a detail shot, where I honed in on an interesting, simple element. Detail shots are a gift in nature photography, as there is so much you can focus on up close.

But I didn’t want it to be too simple, I didn’t want to just have the sign as to me it wasn’t that interesting. So I used a shallow depth of field to create an attractive, out of focus background of color and indistinct shapes.

I think that this adds a nice bit of depth to the photo. Plus, I have a couple of pine cones sticking out in the front. Again this helps my image from being too clean and organized, but reflect a bit of that wild nature feeling.

Build with the Elements

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

The photo above is an excellent way to illustrate this idea of building your photo with the elements around you. I saw the tree and I liked the shape of it. But to photograph a tree against a pretty flat blue sky – with not even any interesting cloud formations behind it – would have made a dull photo.

I looked around to see what else I could bring into the shot to make it a more appealing scene. What other element was in my surroundings that could be used to add depth and complexity to the image?

I saw a bush with small, pretty little leaves, and decided that this would make a nice framing element for the tree. Using a shallow depth of field ensured the bush was an interesting frame, but not in focus, and thereby it created a feeling of depth to the image.

road in the trees - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better PhotosA road to…

Put it all together

The key is – you don’t just go shooting. When you find something interesting that you want to shoot, don’t just raise the camera and snap. No! You need to stop and look around.

What elements are jumping out at you? What shapes are being made by the light? Look at the different parts of the scene. Ask yourself – what happens to these shapes when I move over here?

Pause, look around, organize your position, and then start shooting.

Now – look at the photo below and tell me what is the subject, and what are the supporting elements?

house in a field - How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

If you picked the houses as the subject, you guessed correctly! Can you tell me what the next most significant element is?

Of course, it’s the mist! I’ll tell you why. If the mist wasn’t covering much of the rest of the photo, the landscape would be in equal focus and therefore very confusing to the eye. The house would just blend into the landscape and it would be a flat, undynamic shot.

So part of understanding about elements is knowing when to shoot, where to shoot and how to shoot your subject.

How to Break the World Down into Elements to Create Better Photos

So there you go! Those were my ideas on how to break the world down into elements. I would love to know what you think. Was it useful?

Please let me know in the comments below what you think.

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Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

12 Sep

In this review, I’ll put the PiXAPRO CITI600 portable strobe (also called the Godox Wistro AD600BM) through the paces and give you my thoughts on it.

Despite the innovations to all manner of photography equipment, studio strobes haven’t changed much in the past few decades. Sure, a handful of features get added here and there every once in a while, but for the most part, you know exactly what you’re getting: a powerful light source with a very short duration that is plugged into an electrical outlet.

But this has changed in the past few years. Manufacturers have begun to incorporate features like batteries, TTL (through the lens metering) compatibility and high-speed sync into their strobes. These features make the humble studio strobe more useful and more versatile than ever.

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

The PiXAPRO CITI600 is the Godox Wistro AD600BM rebranded for the UK market.

The PiXAPRO CITI600 does all of these things. The CITI600 is a battery powered strobe whose features include high-speed sync and TTL metering (through the use of a separate camera mounted trigger).

Rebranded

Pixapro is Godox rebranded for the UK market. The CITI600 is the same product as the Godox Wistro AD600BM. The only difference is that the battery can be safely charged via a 220v power outlet.

High-Speed Sync

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM) - outdoor portrait

High-speed sync allows you to better control how your ambient and strobe lighting mix together.

If you own a speedlight, you are probably already familiar with high-speed sync (HSS). In short, HSS allows you to sync your flash with your camera at significantly faster shutter speeds than normal.

Doing so provides you with the means to overpower the sun on bright days, easing the effects of harsh lighting. It also allows you to darken backgrounds and use larger apertures to obtain a shallow depth of field in situations that you would normally be relegated to small apertures such as f/11 and f/16.

Because of the small size and limited power of speedlights, HSS has always been a bit of a specialist technique. However, put that functionality into a high powered strobe with a large modifier mounted to it and those limitations disappear. This opens up a world of new possibilities for you.

Battery Powered

outdoor portrait setup - Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

No cords and no generators make the Citi600 as portable as possible. If you’re willing to carry it, you can have a high powered strobe wherever you want.

Even without HSS, it has always been possible to use studio strobes to great effect outdoors. The limitations, however, made it impossible for most photographers. Because strobes are electrically powered, to take them on location, you need external battery packs or generators.

Both of these things were/are expensive and difficult to lug around. With the inclusion of a high capacity battery in a strobe, these concerns disappear and your strobe can now go virtually anywhere a speedlight can.

TTL

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

TTL metering makes mixing ambient light and artificial life much, much easier.

Through the lens metering (TTL) allows your camera to take a meter reading and relay that information to your strobe, making it much easier to mix flash with ambient lighting. It’s not perfect and won’t likely ever be, but in a pinch, TTL metering can make getting a good exposure quick and easy.

For example, if you are on location and you know that you want a dark background with a well-exposed subject, you could set your camera’s exposure to underexpose the ambient by two stops and fire the strobe at whatever the meter is reading. Fine tuning the strobe’s exposure can be as simple as dialing in a few stops of exposure compensation on your trigger.

PiXAPRO CITI600 – Godox Wistro AD600BM

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

Combined, these three features take the already versatile studio strobe to a whole new plane of utility and the PiXAPRO CITI600 with the ST-IV trigger does a fantastic job of it. In the months that I’ve owned mine, I can attest that the HSS functionality works perfectly without flaw.

On top of that, there are a few other things worth discussing.

Specs

As you’d expect from a modern, feature-laden strobe, the spec sheet for the CITI600 (Godox Wistro AD600BM) is rather impressive. There’s no need to bore you with the full specs, but some notable highlights include:

  • A guide number (GN) of 87m @ ISO 100
  • A color temperature of 5600k
  • HSS up to 1/8000th of a second
  • 100m range with the ST-IV trigger

ST-IV Trigger

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM) - flash trigger

The ST-IV trigger gives you complete wireless control over the Citi600 from the top of your camera.

For the trigger, I opted for the hotshoe mounted ST-IV (Xpro-C for Canon as it is called in the USA – $ 69.00). This trigger offers access to the full functionality of the CITI600 in an extremely easy to use interface with an LED display.

Controls

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

All of the controls on the CIti600 are clearly marked and very user-friendly.

On both the PiXAPRO CITI600 (Godox Wistro AD600BM) and the ST-IV (Xpro) trigger, the controls are intuitive, clearly labeled and easy to use. Dialing in exposure compensation is simply a matter of turning the dial on either device. Most of the functionality can be accessed by a single button push.

It is also worth pointing out that while the controls are easy to use, all of the displays are clearly labeled and easy to read.

Battery Capacity

PiXAPRO claims that a single charge of the battery will provide 500 flashes at full power. I can’t confirm these exact numbers, but I’ve had the strobe out on a number of occasions where it was in use for several hours at a time. Never once did I have to turn the strobe to full power. The battery indicator never even got to halfway.

It may be possible to drain the battery in a full day, but every indication seems to suggest that this battery is not going to run out on you.

Supposing that you do somehow burn through the battery in a single session, Pixapro does sell spares and at $ 180.00. That is more than reasonable for the amount of power that they provide.

Duration

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM) - LED display

The display on the CITI600 is large and easy to read with all relevant information clearly represented.

This one’s a bit new to me, but it may be a useful feature for you. For whatever settings you have dialed in, the display on the CITI600 tells you exactly how fast the flash duration will be, up to 1/10,000th of a second.

Do you absolutely need to freeze the movement in your frame? Just choose a setting that will give you the desired flash duration and you should be good to go.

Mount

Coming from the Bowens system, all of my modifiers are S-mount. The fact that S-mount is an option on the CITI600 just makes life so much easier. If you’re unsure about it, there are tons of affordable modifiers available for the S-mount. You will never be lacking in choice should you buy into the S-mount system.

Modeling Light

The Citi600’s modeling light is a fairly powerful LED. This has several advantages.

The LED draws less power than your traditional modeling bulb, meaning that there is less strain on your battery. LEDs also do not get anywhere near as hot as tungsten bulbs. For your subjects, this means more comfort as they’re less likely to get too warm under the heat of the lights. It also means that certain modifiers and gels pose much less of a fire risk.

It is also entirely possible to light a scene with just the modeling light. You probably won’t want to do this for a portrait session, but for table top setups and the like, you can use the CITI600 as a continuous light and put even less strain on the battery.

I will add that using the modelling light on location during daylight hours will not usually work due to light levels.

Build Quality

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM) - lighting setup outdoors

The PiXAPRO CITI600 is well built and feels solid. Although it is significantly less expensive than similarly featured strobes from companies like Elinchrom, every aspect of the CITI600 feels like it is built to last.

Price Point

If you think all of this sounds great, than there is one surprise for you. The PiXAPRO CITI600 comes with a price tag of around $ 600.00 making it significantly cheaper than similar offerings from Elinchrom, Broncolor, or Profoto.

In Use

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

It can be awkward to carry the CITI600 with a large modifier about on location. But if you can be bothered, it is more than worth the effort.

Honestly, the PiXAPRO CITI600 works like a dream. I’ve had it out over the past few months as often as I can because it’s just so simple and fun to use. Sure, lugging it around on location with a five foot Octabox can be tricky, but the extra effort is beyond worth it.

Here are a few examples of images achieved with the PiXAPRO CITI600 (Godox Wistro AD600BM).

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

Light Review: The PiXAPRO CITI600 Portable Strobe (Godox Wistro AD600BM)

All in All

Since the demise of Bowens, I have been looking for a new system to eventually buy into. Without a doubt, that is going to be Pixapro/Godox.

The PiXAPRO CITI600 (Godox Wistro AD600BM) is as close to perfect as you can get from my perspective. This portable strobe is high in functionality and easy to use. That’s before you even consider the HSS, TTL and the fact that it is battery powered. Basically, it’s everything you could possibly want with a much lower price tag than you should reasonably expect.

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Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5

11 Sep

There are many genres within the framework of photography and one that is very popular is portraits. As such, many photographers are looking for great software that can help them make their portraits so much better. ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5 has some great tools and adjustments for portrait processing to give them a professional touch.

In ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5 you will find all the tools you need to retouch out blemishes or any imperfections that the person or model may have. You can give the skin the same hue all over to get rid of blotchiness. Finally, you can make the eyes whiter and the teeth brighter. Your subjects will love the results.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - portrait image

Portrait processing with ON1 Photo RAW

We are going to start with the basic skin retouching before heading to the Magic Eye Fixer and finally the Toothbrush.

Basic Retouching

Open the image you want to work on in the Develop Module of ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5. Here you can make the basic adjustments like correcting the exposure or the white balance. Play around with the sliders to get what you want.

You can see what was done to this image below.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - basic adjustments

Basic adjustments.

No girl wants to be seen with acne on her face, so the next step is to get the Erase tool and remove as much of it as you can.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - blemishes

There are still blemishes on and around the chin, so now it is time to take it a step further with the skin retouching. ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5 has some great adjustments you can use to do just that.

If you are working on images of people that you know or clients, consult with them first about what they are happy with you removing from their skin. It might be good to remove scars, for example, however, if they are proud of those scars, it might upset them. Always ask.

Skin Retouching

You can do skin retouching in either the Develop or Effects modules. For this article, we will use the latter so click on Effects in the right-hand panel.

Once you are there click on Add Filter under the Overall settings.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - Effects Add Filter

Effects > Add Filter

When you click on that you will get a big list of options from which you can choose. For this tutorial, click on Skin Retouching.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - skin retouching filter

Skin Retouching filter.

You should see a new window open up that has all the adjustments for Skin Retouching. The first thing you want to do is select the eye dropper that is next to the square color patch. You will see a cross-hairs cursor so that you can make a selection on the skin.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - skin selection

Choose a part of the skin that is somewhere in between the darks and the lights. A mid-tone is the best option and a good place to find that is on the forehead.

Once you have your selection you are ready to retouch all the skin. You can now set the range of how much you want to do on the face. Use the Range slider at the bottom.

As you move it around you will see parts of the image that are covered in black while others are now. The black parts will not be affected, which as the lighter sections and places where it doesn’t cover it you can use the skin retouch. It doesn’t hurt to move it up a lot.

As you move the Range slider along you will see parts of the image covered in black while other areas are not. The black parts will not be affected by the retouching. However, the light sections, or the parts of the image that seems like they are not being affected, is where the skin retouching will apply to the image.

It doesn’t hurt to move the Range slider up a lot.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - range of skin retouching

Add a Mask

Next, you need to add a mask. You can do that at the top of the layer window, it is the white rectangle with the black circle inside.

You will see more options appear and along with the mask. The cursor will also change and the brush will come up automatically once you have done that.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - mask and brush options

Once you have the mask, go ahead and invert it. When you do this the mask will go black. When it is black it means that nothing from that layer is affecting your image. The brush is already chosen and now it is time to work out what parts of the image you want to add the skin retouch.

Make sure you brush is set to Paint In. You can change the brush options including feathering along the top above the image. You don’t need a lot, my brush was set at 31.

Now paint over the skin you want to affect. You should see parts of the mask going white where you are painting. Avoid the eyes and the mouth.

leannecole-skin-retouching-on1-portraits-6

Once you think you have done all the skin it is best to check and make sure.

Along the bottom of the window, you will see the button for a preview. Press it to see your original image. However, on the left, you will see a rectangle with a grey dot in it. If you click on it you will see the image go to solid black and white.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - mask

This shows you what your mask looks like. Pressing the letter O does the same thing if you like keyboard shortcuts. It can be hard when it is like this to really see what you have got painted and what you haven’t.

Go up the Main Menu > Masks > View Mode and finally choose Red Overlay.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - red mast overlay

The red overlay will show you where the black part of the mask is (the unaffected areas), so you can now refine your mask.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - red overlay mask

In the above image, you can see what has been selected. The areas with no red are where the skin retouching will be applied. If you have areas that should be red, change your brush to Paint Out and it will cover them.

Click the circle at the bottom to change back to the image, or press O to show it.

The skin retouching can seem very subtle, but if you toggle the layer on and off you should be able to see the changes.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - toggle layer

Final Adjustments

Now to do some final adjustments. At the bottom of the layer you can see Blemishes, Smoothing, Shine and Evenness. Move all the sliders to the left.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - sliders at the bottom

Slowly move each slider up and see how they change the image. Take them all the way to the right to see how bad would be if you go too far, then bring them back to where you want.

The one you have to be really careful about is the Smoothing slider. You can make the skin look like plastic very easily. You can see what was done for this image in the following example.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - sliders adjusted

The next step is to again turn the layer off and on to see the results and whether you think it has improved the image.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - skin retouching before and after

Magic Eye Fixer

The Magic Eye Fixer is great to help whiten the white parts of the eyes. It can make the subject’s eyes seem a lot brighter. However, this one needs to also come with a warning, it is very easy to take it too far and make the eyes look ridiculous.

To use this tool, go to the Local Adjustments tab and then select Add Layer.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - new layer

In the new layer window, you will see options like Lighten, Darken, Vibrance, and Detail across the top (just below the Opacity slider). Then there is a square with a down-arrow that says More underneath. Click on it and a drop down menu will appear.

Look down the list and you will see Magic Eye Fixer. Click on that.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - magic eye fixer

Once you have clicked on it you will see some of the adjustments change automatically. The brush tool will also be automatically selected. Paint over the eyes.

leannecole-eye-fixer-on1-portraits-3

Obviously with the automatic changes that ON1 Photo RAW makes for the adjustments are too much. You may also find it too hard to paint exactly over the eyes. Don’t forget you can change the brush to Paint Out to deselect the areas you don’t want if you mess up.

Enlarge the image view so you can get a better look at what you are doing; make sure you are only changing the parts you want to affect. You can also press O to check the mask as well.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - masked eyes

You can see that the adjustment is too much. Now you can change the exposure slider to make it look more natural. You can also use the Opacity slider at the top of the layers panel. That will also help you tone down how much the layer affects the image.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - eye settings

You can toggle the layer off and on to see if you like the effect or want to make further adjustments. Just remember not to go too far.

Healing the Skin

You could leave the image here, but there are other things you can do to make the skin look even better.

In the left-side panel, there is a brush called the Retouch Brush. This is a good one to use to help remove unwanted skin blemishes. It softens them, without removing them completely.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - retouch brush

Paint this Retouch Brush over the areas where you would like to remove imperfections. For this image, we will use it for the bags under the eyes, the scar on the forehead and the one over the right eye. It will also work well for the acne marks on the chin.

The brush is feathered and the opacity has been changed to around 50%.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - after retouch brush

After the Retouch Brush

It is a great tool, but as with all things, you can go too far. Sometimes it is good to leave the image for a day or two, then go back and take another look. It gives you a better perspective.

Whitening Teeth – Toothbrush

You will find that many people like to have their teeth appear whiter in photos. We aren’t all blessed with brilliant white teeth and now you can help them achieve that. ON1 has included an adjustment that will help you do the job very easily.

So still in the Effects Module, go to Add Layer. As you did for the Magic Eye Fixer, click More and select Toothbrush this time.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - toothbrush

You will see a new layer open up with many adjustments already made, so it is ready for you to go.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - preset adjusments

Do much the same as you did for the eyes. Click on the mask and then the brush will come up. Paint over the teeth. It may be easier to do them one at a time. If you go outside the teeth click on the brush to Paint Out and go over the areas you don’t want affected.

The teeth should be very white.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - overly white teeth

Obviously, it looks terrible like this so you will need to make further adjustments to get the right look.

You can change the opacity of the layer, or turn down the exposure slider so the effect isn’t so bright. For this image, I changed the exposure because there was something else I wanted to do.

These images are of my daughter, who has never thought looking after her teeth were worth worrying about. So, I wanted to get rid of the yellow staining. The best way to do that was to lower the saturation so the teeth appeared whiter. Move the Saturation slider to the left until you get the result you are happy with.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - teeth whitening

Now we can compare the final image by turning the layer on and off. You do that by clicking the Yellow dot in the top left corner of the layer panel you are working in.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - layer off

Layer off.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - resulting image

Layer on, final result.

The image could be left there, but I decided that her face and hair could do with some brightening overall. So I choose a new layer, and did a mask with her face, that included her hair. The exposure was brought up slightly and so was the White balance to make the image warmer.

Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018 - lighten the image

Looks much better now. She even likes it as well.

Finally

ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5 has everything you need to do the most amazing portrait processing. You can give people skin that is attractive or remove unwanted hues that the camera adds. Everyone wants to look beautiful in photos and now you can help them look the way they see themselves.

The people at ON1 have created an amazing community for all their users and there are many other videos to help go to the next level. Don’t forget to check all of them out and see what else you can do with your portraits.

Disclaimer: ON1 is a paid partner of dPS.

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Understanding Sensor-Shift Technology for High-Resolution Images

11 Sep
rock silhouette sunset - Sensor-Shift Technology

Georgian Bay – Summer Landscape

Changing How Photographs are Taken

In recent years, a number of manufacturers have produced cameras that are capable of producing higher-resolution images through something called Sensor-Shift Technology. This technology has been made possible with the advent of in body image stabilization (IBIS). Camera designers have used the IBIS as a way to get incredible increases in image resolution or to improve the color information for the images that are taken.

There are a number of names for this technology including High-Resolution Mode, Pixel Shifting Resolution System, Pixel Shift Multi Shooting Mode or the more generic names of pixel-shift/sensor-shift but in the end, the concepts behind this technology are all the same. Multiple images of the same view are taken in such a way that the images are stacked and blended to create a single, usually large, high-resolution image.

There are strengths and weaknesses of this new technology and understanding how it works can help you make better images yourself if you have a camera that is capable of doing this.

NOTE: Because websites use lower resolution images, the images used in this article have been downsized and modified to simulate the differences between the high-resolution images and the standard output from the cameras. When looking at the images in full, the images look similar but when you get closer to the details in the images that is when you start to see the differences.

gerbera daisies - Sensor-Shift Technology

Gerbera daisies indoors, regular resolution (20 MP) Olympus OMD EM 1 Mark II

Gerbera daisies - Sensor-Shift Technology

Gerbera daisies indoors, high-resolution (50MP) Olympus OMD EM 1 Mark II

Many Approaches to Sensor-Shift Images

Sensor-shift image capture has been transformed from expensive specialty cameras to become an increasingly available feature on newer, resolution-oriented cameras. Today, in addition to Hasselblad’s monster H6D-400c (400 Megapixel images), there are offerings from Olympus, Pentax, Sony, and Panasonic.

These versions generally use the same conceptual approach but at much more accessible prices.

Sensor-Shift Technology diagram

Sensor-Shift Movement

Who Uses Sensor-Shift?

Regardless of the manufacturer, the basic action of sensor-shift image capture remains the same. Take multiple images but move the camera’s sensor slightly for each image to capture more image data and then put the image together.

By moving the sensor around, the image color data improves allowing for more detail to be resolved by overcoming the inherent problems with color specific photosites. Ignoring the Hasselblad, the systems that use this technology include cameras such as the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II (Micro Four Thirds), Pentax K-1 Mark II DSLR, Sony a7R III, and Panasonic Lumix DC-G9 (Micro Four Thirds) although there are others from the same manufacturers.

Three of these lines are mirrorless cameras with the Pentax being a crop sensor DSLR. It is interesting to note that the Panasonic/Olympus cameras take one approach and Pentax/Sony take a different approach to the same concepts.

The Olympus/Panasonic systems use an approach that makes very large high-resolution images whereas the Pentax and Sony systems use the sensor-shift to improve the color information of same size images. Both the Pentax and Sony systems also allow for the separation out of the individual sensor-shifted images whereas the Olympus and Panasonic blend the stacked images into a single photograph.

Sensor-Shift Technology Olympus camera

Olympus OMD EM5 Mark II has the sensor-shift technology.

How does sensor technology work?

To understand how sensor-shift technology works you need to also understand how a sensor generally works at a very small scale. In the good old days of film photography, cameras used light-sensitive film to record images. Digital cameras use a very different approach to record light.

Digital cameras use light-sensitive photodiodes to record the light striking the sensor. In most digital cameras, each photodiode has a specific color filter (red, green, or blue), forming a photosite. These photosites are arranged to allow the light to be blended to see the color from the image coming onto the sensor.

The red, green, and blue photosites on a sensor are generally arranged in a specific pattern known as a Bayer array (a.k.a. Bayer matrix, filter). There are also other configurations such as the Fuji X-Trans sensor (used on several of their camera models) or Sigma that uses a Foveon sensor.

With a Bayer arrangement, there are twice as many green photosites as red or blue because human vision is most attuned to resolving detail in green. This arrangement generally works well but if you think about it, on an image, a color pixel is created by blending these photosites together.

The sensor does not know how much red there is on a green sensor location or a blue sensor location so interpolation is required. This can create some artifacts in photographs if you look very closely and tends to mean that RAW images have an ever so slightly soft focus. All RAW images need some sharpening in post-processing (the green, the red and the blue for a pixel are blended together).

Sensor-Shift Technology

Bayer pattern of photosites

Static Sensors

In a regular camera without IBIS, each photosite only records the light from one color in that one spot, so the data that it records is technically incomplete. It is like a bucket that only collects light from a particular color. A cluster of light buckets in the Bayer pattern is used to create a single pixel in the digital image but within that pixel, there are two green buckets, one blue and one red.

To meld the image together and put a single color into that one pixel, the signals from the cluster of photodiodes are resolved together. The collected data is interpolated via a de-mosaicing algorithm either in-camera (jpeg) or on a computer (from a RAW image), a process that assigns values for all three colors for each photosite based upon the collective values registered by neighboring photosites.

The resulting colors are then outputted as a grid of pixels and a digital photograph is created. This is partly why RAW images have a slightly softer focus and need to be sharpened in the post-production workflow.

Moving Sensors

IBIS means that the sensors now move ever so slightly to adjust for subtle movements of a camera to keep the image stable. Some manufacturers claim that their systems are capable of stabilizing the sensor and/or lens combination for an equivalent of 6.5 stops.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Moving the sensor allows all the color photosites to record the data for each location on the sensor.

This stabilization is accomplished by micro adjustments of the position of the sensor. For sensor-shift images, those same micro adjustments are used to have each photosite exposed to the light from the single image recording. In essence, the sensor is moved around not to adjust for external perturbations but to have each portion of an image contain full-color information.

Photosites Rather Than Pixels

You may have noticed the term photosites instead of pixels. Cameras are often rated by their megapixels as a measure of their resolving power, but this is confusing because cameras do not have actually have pixels only photosites.

Pixels are in the image produced when the data from the sensor is processed. Even the term “pixel-shift” which is sometimes used, is misleading. Pixels don’t move, it is the sensors that have photosites on them that move.

In single-image capture, each photosite records data for red, green, or blue light. This data is interpolated by a computer so that each pixel in the resulting digital photograph has a value for all three colors.

Shifting Sensors

Sensor-shift cameras attempt to reduce the reliance on interpolation by capturing color data for red, green, and blue for each resulting pixel by physically moving the camera’s sensor. Consider a 2×2 pixel square taken from a digital photograph.

Conventional digital capture using a Bayer array will record data from four photosites: two green, one blue, and one red. Technically that means there is missing data for blue and red light at the green photosites, green data and red at the blue photosites and blue and green at the red photosites. To fix this problem, the missing color values for each site will be determined during the interpolation process.

But what if you didn’t have to guess?  What if you could have the actual color (red, blue and green) for each photosite?  This is the concept behind sensor-shift technology.

Sensor-Shift Technology

A normal resolution image.

Diving Deeper

Consider a 2×2 -pixel square on a digital photograph that is created using pixel-shift technology. The first photo begins as normal with data recorded from the four photosites. However, now the camera shifts the sensor to move the photosites around and takes the same picture again but with a different photosite.

Repeat this process so that all the photosites have all the light for each exact spot on the sensor. During this process, light data from four photosites (two green, one red, one blue) has been acquired for each pixel, resulting in better color values for each location and less of a need for interpolation (educated guessing).

Sensor-Shift Technology

A high-resolution image at the same ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.

The Sony and Pentax Approach

Sony’s Pixel Shift Multi Shooting Mode and Pentax’s Pixel Shifting Resolution System operate in this manner. It is important to note that using these modes does not increase the total number of pixels in your final image. The dimensions of your resulting files remain the same, but color accuracy and detail are improved.

Sony and Pentax take four images moved one full photosite per image to create a single image. It really is simply improving color information in the image.

The Olympus and Panasonic Approach

The High-Resolution Mode of Panasonic and Olympus cameras, which both use Micro Four Thirds sensors, takes a slightly more nuanced approach, combining eight exposures taken ½ pixel apart from one another. Unlike Sony and Pentax, this significantly increases the number of pixels in the resulting image.

From a 20 megapixel sensor, you get a 50-80 megapixel RAW image. There is only a single image with no ability to access the individual images of a sequence.

What are the Advantages of Using Sensor-Shift?

Using sensor-shift technology has several advantages. By taking multiple images, knowing the color information for each photosite location and increasing the resolution you accomplish three main things. You decrease noise, reduce moire, and increase the overall resolution of the images.

Noise and Improved Resolution

By taking multiple images with a subtle change in position of the sensor, the resolution of the image goes up but so does the color information in the images. This allows similar images to allow for a greater drilling down into the image with smoother colors, less noise, and better detail.

Sensor-Shift Technology - pink gerbera daisy

A normal resolution image.

Sensor-Shift Technology - flower

A high-resolution image.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Cropped in tight to the normal resolution image, you start to see noise showing up like grain and color variation.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Here is the same crop on the high-resolution version, the color and detail are better with less noise.

Less Moire

Moire is the appearance of noise or artifact patterns that appear in images with tight regular patterns. Newer sensors tend to have fewer issues with Moire than in the past but it will still appear in some images.

The cause of the moire tends to be related to the tight patterns being recorded and the camera having problems resolving the pattern because it is having problems with the sensor photosite patterns. The color information for the Red, Green and Blue photosites have troubles with edges in these tight patterns because not all the color for a single location is recorded.

With sensor-shift, all the color for each location is there, so moire tends to disappear.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Normal resolution image.

Sensor-Shift Technology

High-resolution Image with crop area highlighted

Sensor-Shift Technology

The cropped area on the standard resolution image – noise starting to appear (the scratches on the paper were there before).

Sensor-Shift Technology

The higher-resolution image has less noise and more detail.

So Why Not Use This for Every Image?

Well, the main reason is that you have to take multiple images of a single scene. This means that this really doesn’t work well for moving subjects. The process requires, at a minimum, four times the exposure time of single image capture. This translates into four opportunities for a part of your composition and/or your camera to move during image capture, degrading image quality.

Such constraints limit the technology’s application to still life and (static) landscape photography. Any movement in the scene being captured is going to create a blurry or pixelated area. This is a problem for landscape photography if there is a wind moving plants or clouds as well as areas where running water is present.

This also means that usually, you need to be very stable and use a tripod, although there are some clear intentions from manufacturers to make available versions that will allow for handheld shooting of the camera (Pentax has this feature).

Sensor-Shift Technology

High-resolution image shot on a tripod.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Movement artifacts are visible when viewed more closely.

Quirks of some of the systems

As sensor-shift technology has been implemented in different ways and depending upon the system used, the problems are a bit different. The main quirk is that you generally need a tripod, so no run and gun.

The Sony system has other limitations that you cannot see the image until you process the four separate images together. This means you cannot review your resolved image on the camera. In addition, due to the high pixel count on the A7R mark III, any subtle movement of the tripod is particularly noticeable on the resultant image. In order to edit the images, you also need to use proprietary Sony Software to merge the images together.

Pentax has some interesting features. Using the software application that comes with the camera allows for addressing movement by using an algorithm within the software for removing movement artifacts. This works better than software commonly used for image manipulation such as Adobe.

The Olympus system has been around a while and in the most recent iteration on the Olympus OMD EM1 Mark II, any detected movement will have those affected pixels replaced with parts of one of the single regular resolution images in areas of movement. This creates uneven resolution but makes the image look better for things like wind. It also limitations particularly if there is a lot of movement. Often the images look a little pixelated.

trees - Sensor-Shift Technology

Standard resolution image of a tree – everything is sharp.

Sensor-Shift Technology

A high-resolution image of the same tree but it was windy… Cropped area is shown in the yellow box.

Sensor-Shift Technology

Cropped area expanded – the wind movement generated some artifacts on the image.

Limitations

The greatest challenge facing sensor-shift image capture is moving subjects. Additionally, trying to pair a strobe with a camera using pixel-shift image capture can be complicated by the speed of image capture, flash recycle limitations, and general compatibility problems. Manufacturers are aware of these problems and are working to resolve them.

Overall the Technology is Only Going to Get Better

More and more systems are using algorithms to produce these higher resolution images. As the technology matures, the implementations will get better and better results, potentially able to deal with movement and handheld conditions.

The advantage to manufacturers is that better quality images are produced without the need for really expensive high pixel density sensors (cheaper). The advantages to the user are that the images can have better noise and color information for better final results.

Happy hunting for that perfect high-resolution image!

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6 Ways to Do Architecture Photography That Stands Out

11 Sep

Architecture offers a great advantage over other fields of photography in that your subject will remain in one place. It is, therefore, easier to locate a subject and it will still be there the next time you visit. But this does not mean that photographing buildings is easy. To capture striking architecture photography requires hard work and lots of practice.

Architecture photography 01

Here are some tips to help you create architecture photos that stand out and catch the eye:

1) Nighttime illuminations

You can create your own interesting images of architecture by shooting a city at night.

Photographing architecture at night as opposed to daytime can transform an image with the variety of light providing a unique perspective. While sunlight can provide shadows and interesting angles of light during the day, you will find nighttime can help to make an image more radiant with bursts of building and street light contrasting a vivid color palette from the sky.

One way to obtain eye-catching images is to start photographing at dusk when the sky retains some light as it begins to be tinged with darkness. At this time of day (blue hour), the rich blue hue nicely balances the lights on the building.

Architecture photography 02

You will find it is best to use a tripod at nightfall because of the low light levels. I recommend that you try different exposures to find the best settings and experiment with your composition.

2) The postcard look

Have you ever wondered how to shoot that wow factor image? To create something fresh and distinct you will need to consider your viewpoint and the building you are photographing.

Often, the best viewpoint is the one that reveals queues of tourists, street signs, or other unsightly elements.

This photogenic prospect of a church on a hilltop was partially obscured by bushes and trees so I found a position that shows off the building while concealing any eyesores. A wider landscape (horizontal) shot suited this subject better over a portrait (vertical) format and creates a picture-postcard look.

Architecture photography 03

It can be very rewarding when you nail a great image that you would be proud to hang on your wall.

Light is another factor to consider when striving to capture your very best architecture images. Consider the interplay of light and any interesting patterns that emerge.

3) Abstract views

Many example photos of modern architecture offer a visual treat with massive forms and flows of energy. But how do you capture the qualities inherent to a building in one image?

Sometimes it is impossible to photograph a building in its entirety either because you cannot stand far back enough without an obstruction or you are at risk by standing in a traffic-heavy street. Instead, move closer to the building and capture some of its details.

You can also shoot at a wide-angle setting to capture abstract views that provide a sense of the space or shoot upwards towards the upper structure of the building.

Architecture photography 04

4) Iconic city landmarks

When photographing important architectural landmarks, we tend to photograph them in a certain way that has been photographed before. There is nothing wrong with capturing this familiar and general view. In fact, I encourage you to shoot an iconic monument in this way as there is often a limited number of uninterrupted views.

It is also good practice to try and find another view of the icon, perhaps by including other buildings or subjects.

Architecture photography 05

5) World landmarks

The world is a huge place with a spectacular abundance of photogenic global landmarks. The Taj Mahal in Agra, India is a magnificent architectural example that is breathtakingly beautiful in any light. When you capture a world landmark such as the Taj Mahal, I suggest you select the largest picture size settings for your camera and the optimal image quality to ensure the finest images are captured.

If you can, photograph the landmark at different times of the day. The changing light can be used to develop interesting compositions. Shoot in broad daylight to capture vibrant colors, strong shadows, and clouds and then create a more atmospheric image by shooting the landmark at sunset.

Architecture photography 06

Architecture photography 07

6) Bridges and bridge life

Bridges throughout the world are the hub of daily life and transport. Whether old or new, suspended or cantilever and of stone or metal construction, bridges are full of photographic potential.

To create images with impact, consider what you want to shoot. Photographing a bridge and the city shows more context and distance while shooting an intrinsic part of the structure such as girders and cable displays defines the bridge’s details.

Architecture photography 08

Another aspect to consider is the life that the bridge conveys such as the flow of pedestrians and vehicles. You could capture foot and car traffic with the bridges to give more of a feel to the construction and location.

Conclusion

Remember these tips when you next do architecture photography and you will soon be capturing images that you can be proud of. Share your tips and photos in the comments below.

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dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

10 Sep

I’ve used a multitude of different lenses over the years, but never one that I have loved using so much as my 35mm f1.4.

This lens fits with my style of photography. I like things fairly natural and unmanipulated. I love isolating my subject and enjoy being able to photograph in low light without a flash. Also, I prefer getting close to what I am photographing.

Buddha Face - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

My 35mm lens gives me a slightly wider field of view than our typical visual attention. Our visual attention is around 55 °, not including peripheral vision, and the angle of view of a 35mm on a full frame camera body is 63 °.

At wide aperture settings, this lens charms me. In most lighting conditions I can achieve super sharp focus and beautiful bokeh in my backgrounds. I am not left shaking in my boots wondering if my shutter speed is too slow.

This is not a review. This is an article about why I love my 35mm f1.4 lens and how I make the most of it in everyday use.

Why I Bought a 35mm f1.4 Lens

Nikkormat FTN with 50mm lens - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

My original Nikkomat FTN and 50mm f1.4 lens

My first camera, purchased second hand in 1983, was a Nikkormat FTN with a 50mm f1.4 lens. After using this lens for 28 years it was no longer consistently producing sharp photos. I think it was just worn out.

At the time I had the popular 24-70mm and 70-200mm f2.8 zooms but was not happy with either of them. They were big, heavy third party lenses that also did not always produce sharp images. For a number of reasons, I was gravitating back to using prime lenses. I’ve always had a collection of older primes and love them.

I became so familiar with my old 50mm. I loved the wide aperture but preferred a wider angle of view. After checking online for example photos produced by the 35mm f1.4 lens, I convinced myself it was worth the money. At US$ 1696 it is not cheap. But I figured that if I use it for 10 years it works out to less than 50 cents per day.

Versatility in Most Situations

Lotus Flowers - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Capturing a diverse range of images with a single lens is a common reason people often prefer zooms. But I find I can use my 35mm lens to photograph just about anything. It just suits my style. I am not a sports or bird photographer so much.

For travel, street, environmental portraits, and even more standard portraits, I am happy to use my 35mm. At times I’ll need a telephoto to get in closer so I switch to my 105mm or a longer lens.

During the photography workshops I teach, this is often the only lens I take with me now. I can use it to demonstrate and make examples of anything that I am teaching. For the subjects I like to photograph I most often use this lens.

The great photographer Robert Capa said, “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you aren’t close enough.”

I find the 35mm lens is the perfect focal length to get close enough.

Street and Travel Photography

Poi Sang Long Festival - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Whether you’re shooting wide, medium or close-up street compositions, the 35mm f1.4 can capture them all well.

Taking in the feeling of a market or parade with a wide photo is essential to have in a series of images. Often using a 24mm or wider lens can squeeze too much into one frame. Choosing a location far enough back from the scene to include a good amount of it works best with a 35mm.

Medium range compositions, where you photograph some of the environment and one main subject, are perfect for a 35mm lens. You can get in close and still easily show enough of the surroundings to keep your subject in context with your photo story.

I do like controlling how much or how little of the background is in focus in a medium range composition. I don’t always choose the widest aperture setting as too much detail from the story could be lost. Having the widest aperture of f1.4 gives me more flexibility in how far back I can get from my subject and still control the bokeh.

Macro photos are not possible with this lens, but I can get pretty close. The lens can focus down to about 30cm (1 foot). For including some detail in a photo series, this is often good enough. If I need a macro image I swap lenses for my 105mm or 55mm micro.

Malu young Thai girl - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Environmental Portraits

Portraiture which includes some of the surroundings, telling more of the story, is my favorite genre of photography. I love using my 35mm f1.4 lens for creating environmental portraits. Being able to get in close enough to my subject and still see sufficient background is vital.

Connecting with my subjects is also important to me. Often I will be chatting with them while I am photographing. Other times I will be silent, only communicating with a smile and some gesturing.

Photographing with my 35mm I can create more intimate portraits than when I am further back with my 105mm.

Silver Temple Artist - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

I’ve photographed this guy working on his pressed metal art many times. He’s at the Silver Temple in Chiang Mai that we visit during one of our photography workshops. I know he is comfortable being photographed.

When he’s busy we don’t talk much, if at all. I can be close enough to him to exclude a lot of the clutter in the background and show just what he is working on. Then I can come in closer and capture a little more detail.

Silver Temple Artist close up - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Regular Portraits

Photographers often prefer a longer lens than a 35mm for making regular portraits. I do use my 105mm much of the time for photographing people in posed positions. However, I like to create a variety of styles during a portrait session and I find my 35mm lens provides pleasing alternatives.

With wider lenses, you start to see some distortion, which is not all that great for portraits. At 35mm there is no real noticeable distortion, but even still, I usually will not place my subject at the edge of the frame.

Working with a model and using a 35mm lens it is important to build a rapport with them first. You do not want them feeling uncomfortable with you being so close. Showing them a sample of the photos you are taking will often help them relax and build their confidence in what you are doing. This is especially so if the model is concerned that being so close to the camera may be distorting their features.

This young woman was very confident and experienced in being photographed. Still, she was a little wary of me being so close. I had started the session photographing with my 105mm lens. Once I changed to the 35mm I made sure to show her some of the pictures I was taking with it and she loved them.

Thai Dancer - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Architecture and Landscape Photography

It’s not at all uncommon to use a 35mm lens for landscapes or photographing buildings. There’s no huge advantage of having such a wide aperture for these subjects as I will typically want more rather than less in focus. At times I will focus on an element in the foreground and intentionally blur out most of the landscape in the background.

Lack of distortion makes the 35mm a good choice for architectural photography. Having a similar field of view to what we see naturally also helps structural photos look more natural.

Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai, Thailand - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

Loving a Lens

I’ve gotten a huge amount of use out of my 35mm f1.4 lens. The experience of using it frequently and really enjoying it has helped me to get to know it well. Being so familiar with a lens means you can make more creative photos with it.

35mm f1.4 Lens well loved - dPS Writer’s Favorite Lens: Why I Love My 35mm F1.4

My 35mm f1.4 looking well loved.

I love this lens and I have a feeling for it. I know, often by instinct, how much my background will be blurred. With the 35mm, I can be close enough to my subject to comfortably communicate with them. Also, I am able to include or exclude as much or little background detail as I want.

Lens love is different than lens lust. You can lust after a new lens every day of the week. To build a loving relationship with a lens you must be committed to taking it out frequently and enjoying spending time with it.

Here’s a video with more about why I love my 35mm f1.4 lens. Do you have a favorite lens? Which one, and why?

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4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

10 Sep

Sooner or later, almost everyone has to sit alone in front of a camera for a grad portrait or professional headshot. It is almost always an uncomfortable experience for portrait clients. But it’s easy to forget this as photographers.

When I great people for their portraits they often confess things like, “I’m terrible with photos,” “I feel sick,” or “I hate my face.”

Perhaps because I’m so empathetic, I’ve developed a knack for making the most nervous and hopeless people shockingly excited about their photos.

In this article, I’ll show you how I do it so that you can make even your most uncomfortable portrait clients happy with their experience.

Black and white head shots - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

I am personally drawn to black and white portraits.

1. Simple Light Setup

Since everyday life already throws you a heavy load of distractions and difficulties, I always encourage photographers to keep their projects as simple (but meaningful) as possible.

No matter how you choose to light your portrait subject, I recommend you do it as simply as possible. The point is to put all your focus on the person you’re photographing, not on equipment.

I either use natural light (a window and a reflector), or a one light setup inspired by Zack Arias.

Window Light

The benefit to natural light is that there are no flashes of light or large umbrellas to make the person feel as though they are at a high-pressure professional photo session. Your subject’s imagination is filled with the photo shoots they’ve seen on TV and you should relieve that pressure for them.

Natural light studio setup - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

This is my natural light setup.

Window light portrait - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

This is a portrait taken with that window light studio setup.

Using natural light and a silent shutter with a mirrorless camera allows the photography part to be as invisible as possible.

One Speedlight

My one light setup includes a speedlight with a 60-inch umbrella and a reflector.

One Light Setup - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

This is my one light setup. It’s one speedlight with a 60-inch umbrella.

One light portrait - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

This photo was taken with that one light setup.

Once set up, you should forget about your gear (the window, speedlight, and the camera) and focus 100% on your subject.

2. How to Focus

This isn’t about your camera, but focusing on your subject in order to make the best portraits possible.

If you are at all self-conscious as a photographer, it is absolutely critical that you do not focus on yourself.

Perhaps you’re nervous because of a lack of confidence, or because you’re worried they’ll hate their photos. Forget all that and just focus on your subject.

Small talk

“A portrait is not made in the camera but on either side of it.” — Edward Steichen

Female head shot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

You can use small talk to distract the subject from their own nervousness and self-consciousness in front of the camera. Talk about their business, their kids, or the last trip they went on. Anything that will distract them from being camera shy.

Warm up

Feel free to warm up with some “test shots,” even if you don’t really need them. Have your subject sit in front of the camera for a few shots where you’re doing nothing but “testing the light.”

Direct them a little bit, but nothing too serious. I sometimes transition into the real photos by saying something funny like, “Okay the light is perfect, now let me see a cheesy smile.” It can often lead to some laughter and the first candid photo.

Female headshot, laughing - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

Candid portraits are the most joyful part of a portrait session for me. You don’t have to be a comedian to make people laugh. Just connect over something in your life and laughter will eventually flow.

Male headshot with suit. 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

I’ll often try to match the expression with the clothes my subject is wearing. I think a softer expression is more suitable for formal wear. But I’ll try everything at the moment and decide what looks best later.

Candid portraits

“There is one thing the photograph must contain, the humanity of the moment.” — Robert Frank

Yes, even a professional headshot session should include some informal candid photos. Candids are real, and even if you’re after a posed photo, candids are the path to discovering who they are when their guard is down.

Female headshot laughing - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

When people can laugh together there begins to be a comfortable connection.

Female headshot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

We often laugh because of the tension created by a joke. But even real-life discomfort or tension can lead to the eventual release through laughter.

3. Finding Soul

“Look and think before opening the shutter. The heart and mind are the true lens of the camera.” — Yousuf Karsh

I don’t care whether I’m photographing real estate agents, future lawyers, high school grads, or “mompreneurs.” I treat everybody like an executive, valedictorian, or royalty during their portrait session.

We’re all much deeper than our occupation, even though it may be a deep expression of who we are. Fill your sessions with lightheartedness and true human connection. When you look through your photos later, you should be able to see the moment that your subject finally became relaxed.

Once relaxed, you’ll find the “real” person that was trapped below the surface of fake smiles and self-consciousness.

It may take you 10 minutes or more to get there, but it is the point in the session that you can move through your creative vision with your subject. You can show them how to squinch (Peter Hurley’s famous technique with the eyes), strike more advanced poses, or move in for close-ups.

Female headshot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

Once I know I have made the portrait that the subject needs, I move on and try other things. I love this very soft expression and the way that her hair creates a frame around her. This won’t likely appear on her business card, but I think it’s a wonderful portrait.

4. Completely Candid

“It’s one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it’s another thing to make a portrait of who they are.” — Paul Caponigro

Being inspired by photojournalism and the idea of capturing truly raw, candid, spontaneous photos, I decided to try a portrait session with no posing. All there would be was conversation and pictures.

Here are some of the results, which I love.

Close up female headshot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

This photo is all about the eyes, and whatever is going through her mind makes me want to laugh!

Female soft light headshot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

A completely candid photo portrait session means taking a lot of photos. Some of them looked posed, but it was a matter of quickly noticing something that looked right and capturing it before the moment passed.

Window light headshot - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

I used a window as a natural light source. There were moments of silence during our conversation when she just looked out the window. Those were wonderful chances.

Portrait of a mother and her son - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

Leave room for surprises in your portrait sessions. You may find yourself thinking, “Did this client dare to bring their kids to a portrait session?” True, they’ll tear your studio to pieces and distract her from her professional portrait session. But along with a little chaos comes life and surprisingly human moments. In the middle of it all, her son came up to be nursed. Maybe this is what Robert Frank meant about the “humanity of the moment.”

Mother hugging son portrait - 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

The portrait session was supposed to have been for her. But who she is on her own isn’t who she is completely. We’re all much deeper than ourselves and are who we are partly because of the people around us.

Portrait of a mom nursing her baby. 4 Tips for Helping People Feel Comfortable During Their Portrait Session

Perhaps you know your subject has reached their maximum level of comfort when they can nurse their baby even while the camera is still clicking. I’m thrilled to photograph people one on one and make portraits that they’ll use as authors or business people. But I’m even more thrilled when those portraits become intensely human moments.

 Get Comfy

The next time you greet a nervous portrait client, remember that the experience has been hyped up in their mind. Distract them from their discomfort with small talk, warm them up with “no pressure” test photos, and make laughter a part of your session.

Include the candid photos when you deliver their photos. Even if they don’t use them for business purposes, they may be the photos they (and you) love most.

I’d love to hear what else you do to help people get comfortable in front of your camera. Let me know in the comments below.

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Tips on “Shooting for the Crop”

09 Sep

It’s the year 2018 and I’ve just finished a quick search of the top 10 best selling digital cameras over at B&H Photo. Those 10 cameras sport an average megapixel count of 26.1MP. Six of those cameras were full-frame sensor models.

In 2004 I worked in a camera/photo processing lab and I remember the day we all stood in jaw-dropped awe as the Kodak DX4530 arrived at the store. The megapixel count of that glorious DX4530? A whopping 5MP. Bob Dylan was very much correct. The times are in fact a changin.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - camera with dark filter on the lens

What all this means is that today, on average, our digital cameras pack in an enormous amount of resolution. This high resolving power affords us advanced possibilities for post-processing unlike never before and is especially true when it comes to enlarging and cropping our images. More specifically, these increases in resolution allow us to bend the limits of cameras and lenses by “shooting for the crop”.

What is Shooting for the Crop?

There’s no hidden meaning in “shooting for the crop”. It is a simple as it sounds.

When we say that we are shooting for the crop all it implies is that before our finger hits the shutter button we KNOW that we will be adjusting the entire composition of the photo later. This is entirely different from the usual organic cropping that sometimes happens during a spur of the moment flash of post-processing creativity.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - different image crop ratios

Admittedly, shooting for the crop is not one of the most smiled upon photographic practices. Most agree that generally, the best way of making any photo is getting it consolidated, at least compositionally, before post-processing ever occurs.

The reason for this is because when we crop digital image files, no matter what, we are in fact making the individual pixel more apparent. The result is a loss of image sharpness and definition.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - low resolution

Low-resolution image.

Still, there will be times when the focal length of your lens may just not fit the situation. This is the usual scenario. There may be a distracting element within the frame that your lens is simply too wide to exclude or maybe that 50mm just doesn’t have the reach that you would prefer to frame your scene.

Whatever the case may be, effectively shooting for the crop means taking into account quite a few factors and variables to make sure the image you intend to end up with looks as clean as possible. Let’s talk about a few things you should take into account whenever you are intentionally shooting for the crop.

Find the “Sweet Spot”

All camera lenses, whether they cost $ 300 or $ 3,000, have an area in their field of view which carries the highest optical sharpness. Most times photographers refer to this area of maximum lens sharpness as “the optical sweet spot” because, well, it’s the sweet spot for sharpness.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - sweet spot

While some lenses are of higher resolving quality than others, all of them will have some degree of optical distortion and softness as you move towards the edges of the frame. The very center of the frame is essentially always the sharpest area of the lens and sharpness is dampened radiating outward. So when you’re shooting for the crop, always place the main subject or point of interest right smack in the center of the frame.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - center sharpness

It doesn’t matter if centering the subject makes a horrible composition for your photo because you are going to crop and recompose later in post-processing. All you should concern yourself with is obtaining the highest level of sharpness for your main point of interest.

This is because when you crop a digital image you are almost always enlarging it at the same time. The more you magnify it the more pixels you will see. It’s here when true sharpness becomes of paramount importance.

Shutter speed and aperture considerations

Getting the absolutely sharpest image for cropping later extends well beyond the quality of your lens. In order to ensure you have the best croppable photo you must take into account the shutter speed and aperture you’re using when making the exposure.

Use a fast shutter speed

The more motion you can arrest in a photo the more clear and sharp it will be. This is one of the rare facts of photographic technique. When shooting for the crop you should always use the fastest shutter speed obtainable.

Of course, this isn’t true when you’re looking for intentional motion blur. Using a fast shutter speed helps mediate not only subject movement but also unintentional camera shake.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - DSLR camera

A great method to help you figure out the slowest shutter speed you can use is “The Reciprocal Rule.” I am a long-standing evangelist of this rule because it truly is just so incredibly useful for helping you to achieve sharper photographs.

The Reciprocal Rule states that when shooting handheld your maximum shutter time is equal to “1” over the focal length of your lens.

So to help reduce camera shake when using a 50mm lens your slowest shutter speed would be 1/50th of a second. If using an 80mm it would be 1/80th. If you’re using a variable zoom then simply use whatever approximate focal length you happen to have dialed in on the lens.

Caveats on aperture

Just as every lens has an optical sweet spot so too does every lens have an optimal aperture range when it comes to sharpness. Various lenses have wildly variable aperture sweet spots.

Some are tack sharp at wide apertures and soften as you move into smaller apertures. With others, the exact opposite could be true. Even two samples of the same model lens could have different results at the same aperture.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - lens aperture

When shooting for the crop it’s always a good idea to shoot at your ideal aperture whenever possible. Just like using the optical sweet spot, using your lens’s ideal aperture will stack the odds in your favor when it comes time to crop.

To find out what apertures produce the best results for your particular lens will take some testing. Simply shoot an image at each aperture and compare them. Generally speaking, most lenses are sharper at the relative “middle of the road” apertures as sharpness tends to degrade as you approach the very smallest or the very largest apertures of your lens.

A brief word on megapixels

There’s no beating around the bush when it comes to megapixels and shooting for the crop. Without attempting to give too technical of a talk (you’re welcome) on image sensors, it’s best to remember that the more megapixels you have packed into your camera’s sensor the better off you will be when shooting for the crop.

Tips on "Shooting for the Crop" - DSLR versus mirrorless Sony

We talked about how cropping a digital photo is essentially zooming in on the image. Since that image is made of little picture elements (pixels) the more you zoom the better you can see the individual pixels. Pixel depth and size aside, the more pixels you have held within a sensor the more flexibility you will have to crop more liberally.

Final thoughts on shooting for the crop

Let’s face it, shooting for the crop is not high on the list of best photography practices. But, unfortunately, we live in a real world of unexpected circumstances. We either won’t have the ideal lens available or the environment will limit us to resorting to some judicious cropping later in post-production.

Luckily if you already know you’ll be cropping an image later you can work to stack the odds in your favor to have better success. Here are a few key tips to remember whenever you find the cruel reality of a scene requires you to shoot for the crop.

  • Center the point of interest in the lens. Make use of that optical sweet spot!
  • Use the fastest shutter speed possible when shooting hand-held. Remember the Reciprocal Rule.
  • Know which aperture yields the highest degree of sharpness from ALL of your lenses and employ if possible.
  • Cropping exaggerates the size of the pixels that make up a digital image. An image from a 16MP camera probably won’t crop as cleanly as one from a 34MP camera.

As with most things to do with post-processing, don’t overdo your cropping. If you know you’ll need to crop down extremely tight just to come close to your ideal picture, allow me to ask a small favor; take a breath and put the camera down. Remember that there will be other photographs and more opportunities. A butchered photo of an incredible scene is less desirable than not having the image at all! Most of the time….

Do you have a cool before and after example of shooting for the crop? Share them with us in the comments!

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How to Create Custom Brushes in Photoshop

08 Sep

The Brush Tool in Photoshop is one of the most versatile and it can be used for many applications. It already comes with many useful brushes preloaded into the program and you can find even more online. But sometimes you just need to be more creative and have full control. Don’t you think?

Not to worry, another great thing about Photoshop is that you can create your own custom brushes. Let me show you how.

What is a Brush?

First things first, what exactly is a brush? It’s a tool used to draw strokes. You can find it in the toolbox or you can activate it by using its hotkey: B.

This tool is very flexible because you can adjust its shape, size, opacity and lots of other specs from the Presets panel. That multiplies the options far beyond the first array of choices that you see on the first menu.

Create custom Brushes Photoshop Tutorial Tool Options Presets

None the less, there are times that you need something you just can’t find pre-installed. For example, you can turn your signature or your logo into a brush, it doesn’t get more personal than that right? In just a few steps you can achieve this.

Make a Signature Brush

Open the image that contains your signature or logo, this can come from a scanned paper, for example, or the JPG version of a logo designed in a different program. Now that you have that opened, activate the Marquee tool to select the image. Just click and drag the selection around it and make sure you’re not grabbing anything else from the image.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Then go to Menu > Edit > Define Brush Preset and a new window will pop up where you can name your brush. Type any name you want, preferably something that will help you identify it later, and click OK.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Note: In the Brush Name window you’ll see a thumbnail with the preview of your brush, you’ll notice that the color (if it had any) is lost, that’s because brushes are grayscale, so it won’t register the colors of the original. You can, of course, apply any color when you use it though.

Now you have your new signature brush. Whenever you want to use it, just select the brush tool then open the drop-down menu from the options bar. You can also pick it from the Brush Presets panel which you can reach from the Window menu in case it’s not already opened.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Using the Custom Brush

You may be wondering why you need to turn it into a brush instead of just placing it as an image. This is because it gives you access to all the settings and controls of the brush tool. Just open the Brush panel and you’ll be able to change from color to size to spacing – anything you need for you to create patterns, watermarks and more!

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

That’s just how easy you can turn any image into a custom brush. But how about creating one from scratch?

Create a New Custom Brush

First, open a white canvas and draw the shape you want to turn into a brush. To do this you can use any of the Shape tools or even other Brushes. For example, I’ll make a simple sparkle. For that, I just need four lines using the Line tool and a round brush with very soft edges in the center so that it has a glow effect.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Remember that color is not registered so it doesn’t matter which colors are you using to draw your shape. Just know that anything in white won’t be part of the brush as it will translate as transparent. Now to turn it into a brush just follow the steps that you did before. Menu> Edit > Define Brush Preset. Click name it.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Now your custom brush is done, grab it from the menu like any other brush. It’s very easy to create but its use can be as elaborate as you need since it has a lot of possibilities. Let me give you some tips to make the most of it.

Tips and Tricks

You can quickly access some of your brush’s most used properties like size, hardness and opacity from the Options Bar or get a lot more control if you open the brush panel. Regardless of whether you created the brush or it came with Photoshop, you can adjust its presets in the brush panel.

A quick overview of the presets I find more useful:

Brush tip: Apart from the size and hardness that you can also find in the Options Bar, here you can also adjust the roundness and angle of the brush.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

Scattering: this is as straightforward as the name suggests. With this option, you can place the brush more randomly, thus, scattering it.

How to Create a Custom Brushes in Photoshop

You can also change the blending mode of the brush in the drop-down menu. This changes the way the brush stroke interacts with the object directly below, which could be an image or a previous brush stroke. However, I prefer to leave it as Normal and put the new brush strokes on their own layer and then alter the layer’s blending mode, that way I can always come back and change it later if need be.

Opacity and Flow: Both of these refer to the amount of paint that you are applying. However, with opacity, it won’t add more paint if you pass over the same area many times unless you release the click and start again. While flow will keep adding paint regardless.

Over to You

I hope you found the tutorial useful and give your creativity a go with some custom brushes of your own!

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7 Landscape Photography Tips You’ll Wish You Knew Earlier

08 Sep

Landscape photographer Nigel Danson has been reflecting on his time as a professional landscape photographer and has come up with 7 things that he wishes he knew when he first started out on his photographic journey.

Unfortunately for Danson, he’s not able to go back in time and tutor himself. But luckily for us, we’re able to learn from these key moments in his career without spending many years getting to those milestones!

“Recently, looking back at some photos I took over 10 years ago, it made me realize how far I’ve come as a photographer.” says Danson. “It made me think about the things I’ve learned over the last 10 or 15 years.”

Landscape photography can be a tricky art to master, and experience in the field is definitely your friend. But hopefully, these tips and tricks will help you to improve your shots in an instant and give you that boost you need to keep your photography developing.

Summary of the 7 Simple Tips to Improve Your Landscapes

  1. Use Aperture Priority Mode
  2. Master the Histogram
  3. Learn to Focus Properly
  4. Simplify Your Images
  5. Use Different Lenses and Stick with Your Camera
  6. Think About Where You’re Standing
  7. Learn and Use Lighting to Your Advantage

Have you got any landscape images you’ve shot recently? Share them with us in the comments below!

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