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SEO For Photographers – How to Bring More Business to Your Site

10 Aug

The post SEO For Photographers – How to Bring More Business to Your Site appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

In today’s digital world, there is so much to learn on the technology side. As a photographer, Search Engine Optimization may be far down on your list of what you give your time to.

However, good SEO is vital to your success, as it can help your website rank higher in searches on major search engines such as Google.

It may come as no surprise that studies show up to 80% of click traffic goes to the top three search results. People are more likely to refine a search than go on to the second page if they don’t immediately find what they’re looking for.

Strong SEO translates into ranking high in organic searches, which means more potential clients for your photography business.

Here are some best practices of SEO for photographers to get you started.

Image: A screenshot of a Google Analytics Dashboard. Analytics is great for monitoring visitor traff...

A screenshot of a Google Analytics Dashboard. Analytics is great for monitoring visitor traffic and how different pages on your site are performing.

How search engines work

Search engines contain a huge database of all the content that they have discovered on the Internet called an “Index”. An estimated 35 trillion web pages across the Internet worldwide are indexed by Google alone. Google is the preferred search engine for about 90% of users.

Search engines scour the Internet for content, looking over the code and content for each URL found. It then stores and organizes the content found during this crawling process.

Once a page is in the index, it is available for display as a result. Finally, it “ranks” the pieces of content that will best answer a searcher’s query, and orders them from most relevant to least relevant. Different search engines use different algorithms, such as showing results in a different order. 

Search engines also pay attention to a lot of other “signals,” such as how often a domain is updated. There are more than 200 signals that can influence where your webpage shows up in any given search. No particular signal is likely to significantly affect your SEO on its own. There are “on-page” factors to SEO like URL structure, and “off-page” factors, such as social media presence.

While you can improve on-page factors right away, off-page factors are less tangible and take time to build. This is why marketing needs to be a big part of your overall SEO strategy.

SEO For Photographers - How to Bring More Business to Your Site

How to improve your photography site’s SEO

Make sure your website is mobile-optimized

The first thing you need to do to improve your SEO is to make sure that your site is mobile-friendly. Not only are a far greater number of searches now taking place on mobile devices, but Google also gives preferential results toward websites optimized for mobile viewing. This means that your site must be responsive – that your webpage design is based on the device used to view the content.

Your site may rank number one for a search term from a desktop computer, but it won’t necessarily be number one in the same search on a phone or iPad.

SEO For Photographers - How to Bring More Business to Your Site

Use relevant Keywords

Like hashtags used in social media, keywords are an important way to boost your SEO and ensure that your website comes up in search results. However, also like hashtags, you can’t use them willy-nilly and expect great results. Keywords must be relevant to your audience and your content. In other words, they must be researched and chosen with care. 

In order to do this, you have to have an understanding of who your clients are and what they’re looking for. For example, if you’re a wedding photographer, is your potential client looking for a destination wedding? Where are they located? Are they looking for someone locally or internationally?

Ask yourself what terms and questions your potential client might be entering in their preferred search engine. How is your audience searching for the service you provide?

To help you, try using a keyword research tool like Moz or Wordstream. These applications can help you discover and export keywords and performance data for improved searches.

Image: Have an understanding of what your potential client may search for when trying to find a phot...

Have an understanding of what your potential client may search for when trying to find a photographer.

Update your content frequently

It’s very common for photographers to spend a lot of time developing their initial portfolio for their site and then neglect to update it. I’ve seen photography websites where even the copyright notation hasn’t been updated since 2015.

As a photographer, you want to appear working and busy. You may in fact be incredibly busy, but if you’re not updating your content you won’t seem to be. From an SEO perspective, you should know that Google will often factor in new content when ranking search results.

This is one more reason to make sure to regularly add content to your website to make sure you stay relevant in search results. 

Use Social Media

Love it or hate it, social media is incredibly relevant to photographers, or anyone with an online presence. As mentioned earlier, social media is one of those on-page factors that act as a signal to drive SEO. Search engines look at social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram as a sign of what is influential on the Internet.

Social media is an important marketing tool and engaging in is will positively affect how you rank in search engine results.

Photography is a service-driven business. Relationships are the foundation. Customers are more likely to buy from you if they feel a rapport with you and feel like they can trust you. Social media is very helpful in putting your face to your business.

Image: A social media presence is important to ranking well in search engines like Google.

A social media presence is important to ranking well in search engines like Google.

Write a blog

Most photographers I know are very visual people and don’t consider themselves good at writing. However, you don’t need to be the next Ernest Hemingway to write a photography blog. In fact, using simple language and short posts of around 300 words or so (though longer can be better too) can really help you in your SEO-boosting efforts.

You can post a series of images on your blog from a portrait shoot, or post some behind-the-scenes snaps of a commercial product shoot you executed with a team of people.

A bit of a description or your thoughts on the shoot or the process will suffice. Give readers an idea of what it will be like to work with you.

This is great from a marketing perspective, but having a blog linked to your photography website allows you to build good textual content and backlinks. On the other hand, having links to only your homepage will have limited effect.

In particular, having a WordPress site attached to your portfolio site can be incredible in helping you rank higher in search results. 

Just be aware that when you do blog, be sure you post high-quality content. Search engines can penalize your domain for duplicate content or broken external links too.

Get others to link to you

Having other sites or blogs to link to you is a great way to boost your SEO. When your work is featured on a popular site, it creates a cascade of links from other sites. Links from other websites to yours are called backlinks and they’re important for good SEO. 

Apply to have your work featured on relevant industry websites or published in magazines. Also, consider writing guest posts on other blogs where you’re not a direct competitor of the blog owner. 

Getting featured in popular feeds on Instagram can lead to new followers on your own feed and potential, interested visitors to your site.

Create a free Google Business Listing

Creating a free Google Business listing will help increase your chances to be found in search results. It allows your company information to be output with high visibility in a variety of ways by Google.

A large percentage of searches are geography-specific, like “Vancouver food photographer.”

When Google returns results that have a geographic component, Google Maps pack prioritizes them over standard results. This is a set of results plotted on a clickable map as per the example below.

Image: When Google returns results that have a geographic component, Google Maps pack prioritizes th...

When Google returns results that have a geographic component, Google Maps pack prioritizes them over standard results and they are plotted on a clickable map.

When you set up your business listing, you’ll also have access to Google My Business Insights. This provides you with detailed information on how and where consumers are searching for your business. Along with your website’s Google Analytics data, it creates an overview of how people find your website and business listing and the actions they take. 

Note that to create a Google Business Listing, you need to be comfortable providing a physical address to your business, which may be your home address, if you don’t have a studio.

To sum up

As you may have gathered, success with SEO for photographers is a long-game. There are a variety of factors that are important in building good SEO for photographers, and they require consistency and analysis.

Be sure to sign up with Google Analytics to track your results. Information is power, and knowing how visitors are using your site will help you tweak your approach and get noticed in search results.

Do you have any other tips you’d like to share with us? Please do so in the comments section below.

 

seo-for-photographers

The post SEO For Photographers – How to Bring More Business to Your Site appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What’s the difference?

10 Aug

The post Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What’s the difference? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Throughout the last couple of years, Adobe has released an absolute tsunami of updates for their photo editing platforms. Adobe Lightroom Classic went through a plethora of upgrades and changes, with new (and sometimes major) add-on’s seemingly incorporated with each new build. One of these sizable fresh additions to the Lightroom Classic toolkit came in May of 2019 with the release of v8.3. It’s called the Texture slider.

Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What's the difference?

Yep, that little guy right there.

You’ll find the texture slider nestled comfortably in the Presence section of the basic panel alongside the now veteran Clarity and Dehaze adjustments. These Presence sliders are extremely interesting in their effects and how they each accomplish their separate actions. Clarity, Dehaze, and now Texture, all perform similar adjustments. They each tweak contrast within our photos to varying degrees with wholly different results.

Texture and Clarity are particularly interesting. Both perform quite similarly, while at the same, remaining their own animals…if that makes any sense? In this article, we’re going to have a closer look at the Clarity and Texture sliders.

I’ll explain how they work and show the different effects each of these powerful sliders can have on your photos.

Texture vs Clarity

All right, so what’s the difference between Clarity and Texture?

We’ve already surmised they are similar in that they function to bring out detail within a photo. However, you’ll notice some very obvious differences as soon as you view the effects of each slider side by side. Have a look at this. Here’s the original photo:

Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What's the difference?

And now a side-by-side comparison of some Clarity and Texture Slider adjustments.

Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What's the difference?

In the photo on the left, I’ve increased the Clarity slider to +100. I’ve applied +100 Texture to the photo on the right. The difference is apparent, but what exactly is happening here? First, let me remind you what our beloved Clarity slider actually does.

A refresher on Clarity

In short, Clarity interacts with our photos by increasing or decreasing the contrast between midtone luminance values. This essentially gives the illusion of our image becoming clearer. However, in reality, all that is happening is the application of more or less contrast to the light and dark areas which fall as midtones (between highlights and shadow).

You’ll also notice that the photo is perceptively brighter and that the color saturation diminishes slightly when increasing Clarity. On the other end of the spectrum, decreasing clarity adds in a soft-focus effect. This can sometimes work extremely well, depending on your subject. For a little more of a breakdown on Clarity check out my other article, How to Make Your Photos Shine Using Clarity, Sharpening, and Dehaze in Lightroom. You’ll also learn some great tips on using Clarity along with the Sharpening and Dehaze sliders.

What is Texture?

Now let’s talk about the new kid on the block, the Texture slider.

Ironically enough, the idea for the Texture slider was born not from the goal of increasing the textures (positive) within an image but rather decreasing them (negative) thereby essentially smoothing out a photo. The Texture slider was initially named the “Smoothing slider” in the early stages of its development.

The team at Adobe were aiming to migrate into Lightroom (at least to some extent) the skin retouching capabilities of Photoshop. Their goal was to offer a feature that packed a less drastic punch than the Clarity slider. All while still being able to increase (or decrease) the apparent contrasts in the photo to give the illusion of enhanced textures within the images.*

Image: +69 texture added globally

+69 texture added globally

The Texture slider lands somewhere between Clarity and Sharpening in Lightroom. A good way to think about Texture is that it is much less harsh than Clarity and offers more subtle results without affecting absolute brightness or color saturation.

Texture focuses it’s smoothing or clearing effects on areas of a photo which possess “mid-frequency” features. You can think of these as medium detail areas. For reference, a cloudless sky would be considered a low-frequency feature while a cluster of trees would be considered a high-frequency feature.

It is also worth mentioning that like many of the tools found in Lightroom Classic, you can apply the texture effect both globally (the entire photo) and locally to specific areas. Local negative texture adjustments work wonders for smoothing out skin wrinkles and blemishes in your portraits.

Image: Before localized skin smoothing

Before localized skin smoothing

Image: After some retouching using a negative texture with Lightroom’s adjustment brush. Now I...

After some retouching using a negative texture with Lightroom’s adjustment brush. Now I only look nominally haggard…

*Note: This is an extremely basic explanation of the Texture slider. If you’re feeling truly adventurous and want to learn more about the technical makeup of the Texture slider, I highly recommend this post over on the Adobe Blog.

Should I use Clarity or Texture Slider?

The looming question is, “When should I use Texture, and when should I use Clarity?” Unlike most commentary I offer on the absolutes of post-processing, which often borders on a Zen-like existentialist approach of “it all depends on the image,” there are some relatively straightforward things to look for when deciding which adjustment will work best for your particular photo.

Try the Clarity slider if:

  • Your image consists of high-frequency features
  • The effect is needed on a more global scale
  • Your image is a landscape
  • The image is black and white

Try the Texture slider if:

  • Your image has large areas of mid to low-frequency features
  • A more subtle enhancement is needed
  • The image is a portrait
  • Your image has extreme color contrasts/saturation

Of course, these are just guidelines, and I hope you experiment with both the Clarity and Texture sliders.

Also, nothing is stopping you from using a combination of the two – especially when you are applying them using local adjustment tools.

Closing thoughts on Texture and Clarity Sliders

You’ve heard me say time and time again that less is generally more when it comes to applying adjustments in post-processing. Just because a tool is available doesn’t always mean you have to use it to its full strength.

Perhaps this is no truer than when it comes to using the tools found in the Presence section of Lightroom, in this case, the Texture and Clarity sliders. These nifty little adjustments can yield amazing results for your photos.

In fact, I use both local and global Clarity and Texture slider adjustments in virtually all of my photos to one extent or another.

With that said, it’s a good practice not to over-process your images. Some judicious use of negative Texture can shave years off your clients face. However, go too far, and they might end up looking like a wax doll.

Adding positive Texture can bring out the subtle beauty of tree bark, however, use too much, and you’ll end up with…well, you get the idea.

What are your thoughts on the new Texture slider in Lightroom Classic CC? Is it a feature you will use regularly? Sound off in the comments below!

 

texture-and-clarity-sliders-in-lightroom-classic-cc

The post Texture and Clarity Sliders in Lightroom Classic CC: What’s the difference? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Long Exposure

10 Aug

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Long Exposure appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is LONG EXPOSURE!

long exposure seascape

Image by Christian Hoiberg

Image: Image by Simon Bond

Image by Simon Bond

Go out and capture absolutely anything that includes long exposure. You can photograph beach landscapes, waterfalls, cityscapes, lightning, Milkyway, light painting, etc. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. Just so long as they are long exposure photography! You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Image: Image by Simon Ringsmuth

Image by Simon Ringsmuth

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting LONG EXPOSURE

 

Step-by-step Guide to Long Exposure Photography

10 Common Mistakes in Long Exposure photography

5 Tips for Getting Sharper Images When Doing Long Exposures

Easy Beginners Tips for Long Exposure Photography

How to Shoot Long Exposure Seascape Photography

Essential Equipment for Long Exposure Photography

6 Tips for Shooting Long Exposure Night Photographs

How to Make the Most of Creative Shutter Speed in Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – LONG EXPOSURE

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSlongexposure to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Long Exposure appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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How to Shoot Abstract Flower Photography using Close-Up Filters

08 Aug

The post How to Shoot Abstract Flower Photography using Close-Up Filters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.

Shooting flowers is a passion for many photographers. Time spent out in the garden with your camera can become almost a form of meditative practice as you compose images surrounded by nature. It’s no wonder that so many photographers long to shoot beautiful flower images. But shooting close-up images of flowers can be an expensive business. Many tutorials will tell you that you need specialist macro lenses, proprietary macro extension tubes, or converters to reverse a lens that you already own. However, using close-up filters are a great alternative.

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

Close-up filters are an option for macro photography that rarely makes it into the tutorial list. Many will tell you that they degrade the final image too much; they cause distortion and focus issues. However, in this article, I’m going to make the case that these filters can enable you to think in a more abstract way as you embrace their unique and imperfect properties!

What are close-up filters?

Close-up filters can also be called close-up lenses or macro filters. They are essentially a magnifying glass that screws into the filter thread on the front of your lens.

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

When you buy a set of close-up filters, you need to know what lens you’re going to use them on. This is because you buy them according to the filter size of that lens. I suggest picking either a standard zoom or a prime lens in the 50mm to 100mm range and purchasing your filters for the thread size of that particular lens.

Close-up filters differ to budget extension tubes in one key way – you don’t lose electronic control of your lens. That means the autofocus will (just about) still work, and the aperture control in your camera settings will still work. Because budget extension tubes do not carry an electronic signal between your camera and your lens, you have to use it manually. For that reason I prefer close up filters – it makes changing your settings on the fly much easier!

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

The image on the left was shot with just the Fujifilm 35mm f1.4 lens. The image on the right had a +10 close-up filter screwed onto the front of the lens.

The last thing to know about close up filters is that they have different magnification strengths – just like buying a magnifying glass. The higher the number, the more you will magnify your subject and the closer you can get. All of the images in this article have been shot using a +10 close-up filter on a Fujifilm 35mm f1.4 lens (roughly equivalent to a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera).

Why shoot abstract photos?

Abstract photos can really help to free you up from the common “rules” of photography. You can start to think outside of the box without wondering if an image is sharp enough all over, or if the colors are perfectly rendered.

How to Shoot Abstract Flower Photography using Close-Up Filters

That’s not to say that abstract photography is a way to “save” a bad photograph. As much thought and consideration should go into an abstract as it would a more traditional image.

Once you’ve learned to let go of the rules you might find that expressing yourself through color, shape, and texture can be relaxing. Experimenting with abstract photography can bring a whole new dimension to your work. It can even make you think about other kinds of photography differently. You’ll be much more careful when placing colors and lines in images in the future if you spend some time creating abstract compositions.

Tips for photographing flowers

Once you’ve got your close-up filter screwed to the front of your lens, head outside for a play. You won’t need a tripod at first – bump up your ISO and try handholding some close-up shots on a day with bright but overcast light (or shoot in the shade, of course).

Get the shot in focus

I recommend turning your autofocus off. We’re going to be working with some really shallow depth of field and that means your camera will often lock the focus on to something you don’t want it to.

How to Shoot Abstract Flower Photography using Close-Up Filters

Instead, you can use your body to move the subject in and out of focus. Carefully lean a fraction closer or further away, and you’ll see different parts of the images go in and out of focus. It takes some practice to get the hang of, but after a while, it’ll feel really natural.

If you’re a little unsteady and struggle to get the right part of the image in focus, try shooting a burst of three or five images and select the best one later. You can also use a tripod if you want to (if it is a very still day with no wind). However, I find that a tripod can often hinder creativity when you’re trying to think fast and look for new and fascinating angles and compositions.

Select an aperture

The aperture setting that you choose can change the whole feeling of an image. When you’re working this close to a subject, the depth of field can be as thin as a few millimeters.

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

By using a very shallow depth of field, you can draw attention to just one part of a scene and throw the background and foreground completely out of focus. However, when shooting close up, it does mean that the whole flower or object might not be all in focus. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad thing – just picking a small part of the flower to be in focus can be a stylistic choice.

What can be interesting though is the way that the close-up filters interact with a wide-open lens. You begin to get these hazy, dreamy images that are somewhat unpredictable. It’s almost like a Lensbaby Velvet in some respects – or possibly a bit like smearing vaseline on your lens!

Composition is key

Since abstract photography often takes a subject and then makes it unrecognizable, all you have left is the composition and colors. That means you need to start thinking about how to mix shape, lines, form, textures, and colors to express emotions or tell stories. You cannot rely on recognizable and familiar objects anymore.

There are many compositional rules out there to study and put into practice. I have always found it helpful to spend as much time as possible looking at other peoples art (both in galleries and online) and trying to understand what makes a composition pleasing. You don’t have to know all of the rules of composition by name. But having a sense of how the position of elements in the frame and the color wheel work together to create interesting compositions can be a huge help when shooting abstracts.

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

If you are shooting digital, don’t be afraid to shoot multiple images of the same scene and resist subjects. Try placing the main focus on different parts of the image, (including blurry foreground elements), and seeing how different aperture settings look.

You can also think about editing your photographs afterward to change the colors in the image. A slight shift in color, some noise added, or a touch of contrast on the focal point can really change the mood of the shot.

So for a very small investment (certainly compared to the rest of your camera gear), you can open up a new world of artistic abstract photography by using close-up filters. Also, better than that, it can happen entirely in your front garden!

Let us know if you shoot any images inspired by this article – post the results in the comments below!

 

using-close-up-filters-for-flower-photography

The post How to Shoot Abstract Flower Photography using Close-Up Filters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Charlie Moss.


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Trump’s New Tariffs Could Drive Up the Prices of Cameras and Lenses

08 Aug

The post Trump’s New Tariffs Could Drive Up the Prices of Cameras and Lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

President Donald Trump made waves last week when he announced new tariffs on Chinese goods via Twitter.

Trump writes:

“Our representatives have just returned from China where they had constructive talks having to do with a future Trade Deal…Trade talks are continuing.”

Trump goes on to explain that “the US will start, on September 1st, putting a small additional Tariff of 10% on the remaining 300 Billion Dollars of goods and products coming from China into our Country.”

In other words, certain goods will be taxed before arriving in the US.

For photographers, this is an especially painful blow.

Up to this point, photography equipment had largely managed to avoid any import taxes. But the new 10% tariff will be largely levied on electronics, including computers, phones, and camera gear. And it may cause serious consequences for American consumers of photo equipment.

Image: lucas Favre

lucas Favre

You see, prices of camera products exist in a delicate balance. When the cost to import the gear goes up, prices go up with it, in order to offset the cost paid by resellers. This cost is often felt by consumers.

While companies like Canon, Nikon, and Sony are based in Japan, a significant number of their imaging products are made in China. It’s these products that will be hit by the tariffs, and it’s these products consumers should be worried about.

Trump does promise that his administration will work toward a trade deal with China. However, you should note that these new tariffs follow on the heels of previous tariffs, which left camera gear largely untouched. If the trend continues, things are likely to get worse before they get better.

Of course, this news is only relevant to American readers. Prices in countries other than the US will remain unaffected. But for photography-lovers in America, you may want to purchase any China-made camera gear now, while you can still get it for cheap.

President Trump’s tweet indicates that the new tariffs will come into effect on September 1st.

So pretty soon, prices will be on the rise.

What do you think about the tariffs? Will they stop you buying new camera gear? Let me know in the comments!

The post Trump’s New Tariffs Could Drive Up the Prices of Cameras and Lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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10 Cheap Photography Accessories that will Make Your Life Easier

07 Aug

The post 10 Cheap Photography Accessories that will Make Your Life Easier appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

Camera gear is notoriously expensive, but there are some cheap photography accessories out there. Here are 10 affordable gadgets that you should seriously consider adding to your camera bag, no matter what kind of photography you do. They can help make your photoshoots run smoother and your workflow more effective.

1. Camera cleaning supplies

10-cheap-photography-accessories

No matter how careful you are with your camera gear, it is bound to get dirty. Thus, it is essential to always have your camera and lens cleaning supplies on hand. Luckily, these items are pretty cheap, so there’s no excuse for not having them around. Here are a few cleaning tools in particular:

  • Lens cloth: microfiber cleaning cloths remove dust and smudges from filters and the front of your lens.
  • Rocket blower: also known as a bulb blower, use this rubber device to blow the dust off your camera sensor and the front of your lens. If using it on your camera sensor, be sure to point your camera downward so the dust will fall to the ground.
  • Lens pen: these have a similar function to lens cloths, but they are easier to keep clean and target problem areas.
  • Lens cleaning liquid: when a lens cloth or pen isn’t doing the trick, cleaning liquid will often give you the best results.

2. Rain sleeve

Even though many cameras and lenses are touted as weather-resistant, it’s still a good idea to carry rain gear with you. This is helpful not only for downpours but for shooting in other wet conditions such as riding on a boat or sitting in the first row at Sea World.

There are all kinds of rain cover options out there, including regular plastic shopping bags and Ziplock bags.

If you have a relatively small camera, a DIY home version might be just fine. But for those with larger cameras and lenses, it’s best to invest in dedicated camera rain sleeves, such as these made by OP/TECH. They are pretty cheap and reusable, and they have custom sizes to better fit your camera setup than what a regular plastic shopping bag can offer.

3. Foldable reflector

No matter what kind of photography you do, you should own a reflector. These flexible devices are great for adding a kiss of light to any scene. Reflectors come in many sizes and shapes.

The most versatile ones are 5-in-1, offering white, silver, gold, black, and translucent surfaces.

The latter surface is one that I use often to filter light and make it softer. This is where the LED flashlight can come into play if you filter its light via the translucent part of the reflector. Size-wise, reflectors can be pocket-sized, or human-sized. Get the size that makes the most sense to you or stock up on multiple ones.

4. Bubble leveler

Although many cameras have built-in digital levelers, sometimes it is easier to have a physical bubble leveler that you can always refer to. These cheap bubble levelers fit on the cold shoe mount of your camera and help you get a straight and level shot.

As an added bonus, you can also use these to level other items such as prints of your pictures when mounting them to a wall.

10-cheap-photography-accessories

5. Battery holder

Most photographers have several spare batteries for their cameras. But do you have a method for keeping your batteries organized? If not, you need a battery holder. Think Tank makes battery holders for different capacities, such as 4 spare batteries or 2. They even have one for AA batteries. When I use these battery holders, I put them in facing the same way and replace them upside down as they drain and need to be recharged. That way, I know not only where all of my batteries are, but which ones need to be charged.

Cheap camera accessories

6. Memory card wallet

Similar to battery holders, it’s also a good idea to have a memory card wallet.

When I first started out in photography, I was a staunch believer in having as few memory cards as possible so that I didn’t accidentally misplace them. While this might be an okay practice for some, the truth is that camera file sizes keep getting larger. That means you’ll likely need to carry more memory cards.

If you use more than one memory card, you should have a system for keeping them organized. That’s where a memory card wallet is helpful. Use them not only to keep track of your cards, but also to know which ones are empty, and which are full (i.e. by turning them upside down when full).

Cheap camera accessories

7. Silver Sharpie

Have you ever noticed that a lot of camera gear tends to be black in color? Everything from batteries and memory cards, to camera bodies and lenses, they all seem to be the same color. This can make it tricky for labeling them with your name or indicators to tell them apart. Enter the silver Sharpie.

This is one of those tools I never knew I needed until I started using it. The main thing I use it for is to write my name and a unique number on each of my memory cards. I have 13 of them, so I need a way to tell them apart. I do the same for my camera batteries, external hard drives, and all kinds of items.

8. LED flashlight

This is an item that is so small and easy to slip in your camera bag that you might as well carry one. Portable light sources have a variety of uses, namely helping you find gear in your camera bag in dark lighting scenarios. Flashlights can also help you make a creative image via light painting, or adding a bit of extra light to a scene, especially when paired with the next item on the list.

9. External battery pack

These last two items might be arguable in terms of their “cheapness,” but they have a relatively low investment price considering how long they can last. An external battery pack is especially helpful today since many modern cameras can be charged via USB input.

You can also juice up your cell phone on the go, which is probably very helpful for photography since there are many smartphone camera apps out there to help you take better photos.

I’m a fan of Anker battery packs, such as the Anker PowerCore 10000, which goes for about $ 30.00 USD. I’ve owned the previous version of this battery pack for over 5 years, and it is still going strong.

Cheap-photography-accessories

10. Joby Gorillapod

These flexible tripods have been around forever and they are still incredibly useful. Think of those awkward places where a regular tripod won’t quite fit, and the Gorillapod is your answer for anchoring your camera to grab those unique shots.

Admittedly, Gorillapods aren’t the cheapest accessories out there, but it does depend on which size you buy. Smaller Gorillapods (for smaller cameras) can go for under $ 30 USD, but the larger ones will go for upwards of $ 40 USD. This may seem cheap to you, or it may seem expensive.

Either way, know that these Gorillapods are built to last. I have one that is over 7 years old and it still holds up both my Canon DSLRs and Fujifilm mirrorless cameras just fine.

Cheap camera accessories

Over To You

There you have it – 10 (relatively) cheap camera accessories that all photographers should have.

Would you add any items to this list? Let me know in the comments below!

 

10-cheap-photography-accessories

 

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How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography

07 Aug

The post How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Food photography is all about communicating an ambiance or mood. Plating, styling, and props will help, and using the right backdrop can go a long way to tie everything together. Learn how to use Photoshop to change the background without having to buy new ones.

change-background-in-photoshop

To have the right background for every shot means having a lot of tabletops, pieces of wood, linen, etc. These things cost and take a lot of space. If you don’t have the budget or storage capacity for it, this article can help you out. By doing a good selection and using layers, I’ll show you how to change your background in Photoshop.

A precise selection is key to change your background

First, you need to be able to work separately on your background, for this, you have to select it. There are many selection tools in Photoshop, feel free to choose the one you want. However, I recommend the pen tool for more advanced selections. If you need some help with it check out: Why Learning the Pen Tool in Photoshop is Worth the Effort.

Image: Use Photoshop selection tools to change your backdrop without affecting your subject

Use Photoshop selection tools to change your backdrop without affecting your subject

Once you’re satisfied you can duplicate the layer by going to Menu-> Layer->Duplicate layer.

Now add a mask by clicking on the Create Mask button from the bottom of the panel. Because you had your subject already selected, it will create the mask with that shape.

From now on, your changes will only be seen on the background that you had selected.

If you would like to understand masks better, check out Photoshop Masks 101.

change-background-in-photoshop

Photoshop layers mask help you change the appearance of your background for food photography

Modify the colors to simulate a different background

Now you can freely modify the backdrop using any adjustment layers that control color, brightness, hue, saturation etc.

Just click on the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer button from the bottom of the Layers panel to see all the choices.

Since you are working on separate layers, your original remains untouched and you can always go back to it if you do something you are not happy with.

Image: Photoshop have many adjustment layers to choose how you want to change your backdrop in food...

Photoshop have many adjustment layers to choose how you want to change your backdrop in food photography

You can add as many layers as you want. For example, I modified the hue and saturation, then added a warming photo filter. Just be sure to always apply the mask to the layer (not the background) or the adjustments will show in the entire image.

A white background is easier to change

For this option, you need to have a texture ready before you start. You can buy them on stock photography websites, or you can make your own. I find it useful to photograph fabrics, wood, stones or anything I can use later so that I have many options available. For inspiration and details, you can read How to Create Your Own Unique Textures and Apply Them To Your Photography.

Image: A white background allows you to incorporate textures and change the background of your food...

A white background allows you to incorporate textures and change the background of your food photography

Select the background like in the other example, only this time it might be easier because of the contrast created by the white background.

Easy to use selection tools like Quick Selection or Color Range can save you a lot of time, just pay attention to the edges and details.

Always zoom in to fine-tune your selection. Then save it by going to the menu Selection->Save Selection.

change-background-in-photoshop

A good selection helps you change only the backdrop with Photoshop tools

Apply your texture as the new backdrop

Now add the texture you chose for your new background. You can do this by going to Edit->Place if you want it as a Smart Object. However, if you don’t plan to modify it then just paste it on top. Either way, it will create a new layer on top that will cover your original image.

Place or paste a texture in Photoshop to use as a new background in your food photography

To give visibility to your subject, load the selection you saved by going to the menu Selection->Load Selection. Then click the Add Mask button like in the first example.

Load a selection and add a mask to see the food on top of the background

Integrate your new background

Now you can see the cherries but they look a bit fake. To improve this, change the layer blending mode. I find Multiply does a very good job for this.

If you want to know more about blending layers watch this Comprehensive Guide to Photoshop Blend Modes.

Once you have done that, you can also adjust the opacity. The shadows now make the photo feel natural.

Use blending modes to incorporate the background and make it more realistic

And you’re done.

It’s that easy to change your background in Photoshop!

If you want you can keep on working on it to make it more dramatic or moody. Make use of adjustment layers, filters, and even more textures until you get the effect that you want.

change-background-in-photoshop

Photoshop allows you to use layers, filters and textures to create special moods in food photography

I hope you liked these ideas and found inspiration to keep on trying different things.

Go out and give it a try, and share your images with us in the comments section!

And to further improve your food photography, I’ll leave you here a list with some great articles.

Recommended readings

  • If you’re feeling more crafty, try making Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops.
  • Keep in mind you’ll also need some props, so check out these tips to DIY Food Photography Props on a Budget.
  • And if you’re ready to really jump in with both feet, you can’t miss The dPS Ultimate Guide to Food Photography.

 

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How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

06 Aug

The post How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

monochromatic-color

Monochromatic photography is often associated with black and white photography, but it is certainly not limited to just that. As the name implies, monochromatic is about one color. Thus an image that contains tones and variations of a specific color is termed monochromatic.

How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

Why use monochromatic color?

1. Convey Emotion

Both color and the absence of color are viable options to convey emotion. Your choice of which to use depends on the story you are trying to tell. You may prefer black and white imagery for moodier scenes and to convey more intense emotions. Similarly, a single color used throughout your image can enhance or evoke different feelings. For example, red is commonly used to denote passion, love, and even anger, while blues invoke cooler, calmer and more subdued sensibilities.

monochromatic-color

It is important to note that different tones, tints or shades of a hue/color also change the intended emotion or its intensity, so consider the “feeling” of color. Tints and shades are a result of combining a single color with varying amounts of white (tint) or black (shade).

Sometimes, the use of too many colors simultaneously provokes different feelings and can leave your viewer confused. When faced with such a dilemma, why not try a singular color to see if it achieves a stronger connection?

How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

2. Simplify cluttered scenes

Monochromatic color has the ability to simplify a scene by helping to diminish visual distractions. Again, a familiar thought processes used when processing black and white photography. Absence of color becomes a great way to highlight other compositional elements in the frame, such as texture, shape and form. Thus making monochromatic color another creative choice to explore.

How to achieve monochromatic images?

1. Shoot

In our vibrant world, is it really possible to shoot a monochromatic scene? Interestingly enough, once you start looking for monochromatic color, it presents itself. So yes, it is everywhere around you, especially in urban landscapes, building interiors and even in nature. While the first two examples are more intentional, the latter is also quite common. In nature, look for scenes that embrace tints, shades, and tones of a singular color. Naturally occurring monochromatic scenes have the potential to be strong and interesting images.

How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

If you are just starting out and have not yet grasped working with color harmonies, using the variance of a single color in your frame is a great way to start. The way light interprets and changes a singular color in a scene can be mesmerizing. This calculated option goes a long way in helping you pay closer attention to (and learning about) color.

2. Process

While naturally occurring monochromatic scenes are more realistic, post-processing is often used to achieve this finish. Processing monochromatic images has existed since the days of film and is certainly not a new creative spin. In the earlier eras of photography, both warmer tones (such as sepia) and cooler tones (cyanotype) were due to specific chemicals used while developing the film.

How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

Interesting fact: Sepia processing back then brought more than warmth to a photo. The chemicals involved in that process slowed down the aging of a photograph thereby enhancing its archival quality.

These days, achieving monochromatic color is much easier. The step-by-step process varies depending on the software that you use, but the principles are almost the same. In summary, the easiest way is to tone an image. This loosely translates to converting a color image to black and white/grayscale and then replacing the black with another color (also called tinting).

You can further adjust your contrasts to make your light areas lighter and your dark areas darker for that added punch.

monochromatic-color

Monochromatic Color evokes a different emotion

Check out this link on several ways to achieve this type of processing in Photoshop and here for doing so in Lightroom.

Conclusion

While black and white is the most obvious type of monochrome photography, monochromatic color is the use of any singular color throughout an image. It lends itself to emotional connections and simplifying your scene. Monochromatic color occurs in the natural world or can be achieved with post-processing. It is often a more minimalist approach that has the potential to create strong images.

Is monochromatic color something that you personally connect with? If yes, share some of your favorites in the comments below.

 

monochromatic-color-in-photography

The post How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


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How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

06 Aug

The post How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Wedding receptions are often referred to as the most boring part of the day since the most exciting part are the bride and groom portraits. However, it would be wrong to treat receptions as such since receptions hold many of the meaningful details of an actual wedding celebration. So here are some tips on how to photograph wedding receptions with great success.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

1. Schedule the reception with a time buffer

Weddings are high paced and often begin on time, but as the day progresses, it can be easy to fall behind schedule. When you’re creating the wedding day itinerary for your clients, add in an extra 15-minute buffer to any travel or transition time before the reception.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

The reason for this is because you’ll want to grab a snack and hydrate before getting into the last leg of the wedding day. You’ll also want to test out your gear, change batteries, or memory cards. Some photographers take this time to do the same-day slideshow.

This extra buffer means no rushing to the reception but instead preparing your gear and yourself for the last few hours of the day so that you’re not running on empty.

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

It also will allow you to get to the reception early, which is my next point.

2. Photograph the reception alone

Getting to the reception area those extra few minutes early also allows you to photograph all the details without any guests in the background. This makes for really nice wide shots and closeup shots of the entire set up.

You can then create real depth to your photos and zone in on particular details like the seating chart, place cards, centerpieces, and the sweetheart table. You can capture them without drinks, purses, or other guest items.

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

If at all possible, have the bride and groom enter the reception area and photograph them alone in the middle of the set up as part of their wedding portraits. It can add a little more emotion and tie the narrative of the event together.

3. Make a list of all the must-have photos

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

Most wedding receptions are much the same in terms of what you should photograph for the bride and groom. While they can vary in time of day, location, or style, these are the main details that you should be sure to photograph:

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

  • Entrance details: Do they have a sign? Are there photos from their engagement session? Is there a sign-in guest book, meaningful mementos like wood blocks to sign and write notes on? All of these are important to photograph as a whole and each detail individually or a group of details.
  • Wide photo of the space as a whole. Photographing the entire space gives the reception and final wedding photos a nice transition in the narrative or album. Take a few photos from different perspectives so that you can choose the best one for the final gallery of images.
  • Centerpieces: If there is only one style, photograph it both horizontally and vertically as well as taking a close up detail photo of it. If there are different styles on each table, take photos of each style. If, for example, they have placed a different photograph on each table, you don’t have to photograph each table. Instead, find one or two that you like and photograph two or three different tables.
  • Table seating/ seating cards: Table seating and table cards are how guests know where to sit during receptions. These may present in various and creative ways. You should photograph a wide shot of the setup and then a detailed photo of the seating. Choose a name that sounds familiar to you (perhaps a family member or member of the bridal party) to focus on for the detail photo.
  • Dinnerware set up: If you notice that the dinnerware and stemware have been chosen with a little more intention, photograph the setup. Get different perspectives and angles.
  • Florals: This is most likely to be found as part of the centerpiece; however, some weddings have beautiful florals decorating different parts of the space.
  • Desert table/candy bar
  • Cake
  • Lounge or seating area
  • Any other detail that you feel the couple put lots of effort, time, or money into.

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

3. Staging

A big mistake that many new wedding photographers make is failing to stage photos. Staging the photos will help you get the perfect photo of the detail while still keeping the main aesthetic that the bride and groom have chosen.

Image: Staging and moving things around can help the final photo.

Staging and moving things around can help the final photo.

This means, moving salt and pepper shakers out of the way, lighting the votive candles if necessary, turning a table number to face the camera, or even moving a chair so you can get the whole table in one photo.

After getting your shots, make sure to place everything back to where it belongs. That way, when the guests arrive, they see the complete look and aren’t missing their water glass or chairs.

4. Lighting

If you are photographing a reception in a salon or closed venue, the lighting may not be ideal for photos. If the ceiling is white, you can use it to bounce light from your flash back down onto the table and reception details. This will give you more even lighting and a pretty straightforward light in your photos.

Image: At left the flash is pointed to the side. At right, the flash is bouncing from the ceiling. Y...

At left the flash is pointed to the side. At right, the flash is bouncing from the ceiling. You can see the difference in both.

In addition, using an external flash attached to your camera, point the flash to the side so that you can get more side lit photos. These add more depth to your detail photos and adds shadow. For example, this type of lighting makes for great depth to cake photos and also centerpieces.

You can also use an external LED video light or small light to help you light the reception details. This also gives you a lot more flexibility in getting different lighting that is immediately obvious. As for flash, you have to take test shots first to see how the light looks.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

Having an external flash can help you get really nicely lit photos. Use the flash in manual mode to control the output.

If you don’t have any external lighting then you can use the ambient light for the details. Just make sure that your camera is stable enough to photograph by using a tripod. Having a fast lens can also help you capture ambient light.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

Be aware of the color temperature of the ambient light as well. This can change the color of florals, table linens, seating cards, etc. if you’re photographing with ambient light.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

As a good resource, you can also use your cell phone flashlight to help light or fill in light on the details that you’re photographing.

5. Events of the reception

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

During the reception there will most likely be some, if not all, of the following events:

  • Grand entrance
  • First dance
  • Mother/Son and Father/ Daughter dance
  • Toasts
  • Cake cutting
  • Bouquet toss/Garter toss
  • Money or Honeymoon dance
  • DJ-led games or trivia
  • Dancing

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

All of these usually get coordinated by the wedding planner, bride, or DJ himself. Look to them to know what is next after dinner has begun. Never leave your camera and always be ready to photograph anything and everything that you feel is important or fun.

Dancing is always fun. If you can make sure to photograph the key players, like the mother of the bride, bridal party, children dancing, or the best man, these all make for meaningful and fun photos later.

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

It’s really important to photograph the bride and groom dancing with their guests as well.

Don’t be afraid to get creative when you feel like you have photographed all of the most important events. Slow your shutter to get interesting lighting effects. Use multiple flashes to light the dance floor evenly. Even get a different perspective of the party.

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

The main thing is to enjoy yourself while taking photos!

6. Before you leave the wedding

Before you leave the wedding reception, make sure to thank your clients and ask this one important question: Is there anything you’d like for me to capture before I leave?

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

This allows them to get last-minute photos that they may have forgotten to ask for earlier in the day. They may want a quick one with their grandmother or a photograph of them with their best friends from college.

Do this about 10 minutes before you are set to leave. That way, you can have time to photograph all of those last-minute requests before you pack it up and head out.

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

It’s also a great way to say goodbye to the couple for the night.

In Conclusion

How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

Photographing wedding receptions can be really fun even though they usually happen at the end of a really long day.

Give yourself some time to get into the mindset and get creative during the reception.

Do you have any great tips on how to photograph wedding receptions? Feel free to share with us in the comments below.

 

How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

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The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test

05 Aug

The post The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

The Sony 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens was announced in 2017 along with the Sony A9. Both the camera and lens were highly anticipated by many professional photographers because they offer features that were long lacking in the Sony E-mount lineup. In particular, this lens with its far-reaching focal length appeals to sports and wildlife photographers. But with a price tag of just $ 2,500, this lens is pretty accessible to amateur and hobby photographers as well. In this post, I’ll give an overview of specs for this lens plus my thoughts after using it to photograph birds.

Sony-100-400mm-lens-with-Sony-A7rIII

Lens Specs

The Sony 100-400mm lens is a variable aperture lens for Sony full-frame cameras. You can use it on Sony crop-sensor cameras, but its physical size might make it awkward to shoot with, especially if used on a tiny camera like the Sony a6000. There is optical image stabilization (OIS) that provides a degree of stability when shooting handheld photos and videos with this lens.

Size-wise, it has a diameter of 3.7 inches and a length of 8.07 inches. The lens weighs approximately 49.2 ounces or 1395 grams. If those numbers don’t mean much to you, the 100-400mm is a very similar size and weight to the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8. Some might consider this lens to be big and bulky, but for the focal range, I think its size is reasonable and comparable to similar lenses made by other manufacturers.

One thing is for sure: you’ll get the best quality if you use a monopod with this lens.

In terms of physical buttons, there are two that are particularly helpful. One button is a focus range limiter that restricts the range of distances the camera will attempt to lock focus on. This boosts the speed of focus as well as focus accuracy, preventing focus hunting. The other feature is the ability to adjust zoom smoothness to prevent the lens from sliding out when carried.

Sony 100-400mm Lens

Best uses

With a variable aperture of f/4.5-5.6, this isn’t a particularly fast lens, so it is best used in ample lighting conditions. Think broad daylight scenarios such as sports, nature, and wildlife. Portraiture may even work well with this lens, although most swear by the 70-200mm f/2.8 for people shots.

For the field test, I paired the 100-400mm with the Sony A7rIII. Using a camera with more resolution (42.4 megapixels) is especially beneficial as the extra megapixels allow you to crop in. You can also take advantage of shooting in APS-C mode on the camera, which effectively doubles your focal range. The A7RIII can also shoot at up to 10 frames per second, and has the newly added animal eye autofocus tracking, making this camera very ideal for wildlife photography. Both the camera and lens have weather sealing. However, I did not test this feature on this shoot.

Sony-100-400mm-lens-with-Sony-A7rIII

Size comparison of the Sony 100-400mm to the Fujifilm 100-400mm.

Lens alternatives

If you plan to shoot in low lighting, the Sony 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8 lens will be more appropriate. However, those lenses are $ 5,800 and $ 12,000 respectively, so you’ll need deep pockets. Considering these prices, $ 2,500 for the 100-400mm is quite reasonable. You may even want to consider the newly announced 200mm-600mm f/5.6-6.3 lens, which is just $ 2,000, but considerably larger in size.

So how was it?

I took the 100-400mm on a weekend trip to go birding in Eastern Washington.

Birds were aplenty, and this lens excelled at shooting them in daylight conditions at every focal length. Its size and weight made it possible to shoot handheld. But for extended periods of time and for optimal performance, it was best used when mounted on a monopod.

Performance-wise, autofocus was fast and accurate. Animal eye autofocus (new to the Sony A7RIII and several other camera bodies) was hit or miss for birds, but I’ve heard that it currently works best on dogs and cats.

Would I buy this lens?

If I was an avid wildlife and birding photographer, I absolutely would. The price of $ 2,500 is more than reasonable for a lens with this focal range. Although, third-party lens makers such as Sigma and Tamron are producing some stellar pieces of glass lately and I would love to see them make a version of this lens for Sony E-mount.

Sample images

Image: 1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

Sony 100-400mm on Sony a7riii

1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

Sony-100-400mm-lens-on-Sony a7riii

1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

Image: 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 800 at 139mm (in 35mm: 208mm)

1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 800 at 139mm (in 35mm: 208mm)

Image: 1/250 sec, f/7.1, ISO 500 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

1/250 sec, f/7.1, ISO 500 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

Sony 100-400mm on Sony a7riii

1/2500 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 100mm

Have you used this lens? If so, what are your thoughts? Please share with us in the comments below.

 

Sony-100-400mm-Lens-review

The post The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


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