Category: Photography

  • Landscape Photography Accessories You Need to Own

    The post Landscape Photography Accessories You Need to Own appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

    Every photo genre has its arsenal of accessories. Portrait photographers choose light modifiers; macro photographers have extension tubes and sports photographers walk with monopods to support heavy telephoto lenses out in the field. Similarly, landscape photographers pack a few accessories to help them work with the natural environment, time of day and elements to maximize their time. Here are a few key accessories that you will want to leave in your camera bag.

    1. Filters (Polariser, ND, GND, UV)

    Filters are a great way to shape your available natural light and there are many different kinds. The most common ones used for landscape are the polarizer and the graduated neutral density filters.

    Polarizer / Circular Polarizing filter (CPL)

    Some landscape photographers never leave home without this accessory. The major pros of CPLs include the way they enhance your colors (think blue skies) and also cut glare/reflection. In contrast, there are situations when you will not want to use a polarizer.

    Adding a polarizer to the previous scene cuts the glare on the water and enhances the colors of the ocean

    Neutral Density (ND)

    This filter is basically a darkened piece of resin/glass that reduces the amount of light that enters your lens. Furthermore, in a proper ND filter, the color of the light is not affected (neutral). It is most useful in bright conditions, where you want to use a longer/lower shutter speed or wider aperture. ND filters come in different increments, which vary the amount of light that you block.

    Graduated Neutral Density (GND)

    Also known as a split neutral-density filter, GNDs selectively transmit light. Therefore it is essentially an ND where only part of the filter is darker, which allows you to reduce the brightness in part of your image. As a result, it is particularly useful in a contrasty scene with a bright sky.

    A Graduated Neutral Density filter helps balance the sky

    Ultraviolet (UV)/Haze/Clear

    While these filters do little to affect your image, their main purpose is to protect the front element of the lens from dust and scratches. That being said, compromising on the quality of a UV filter may degrade the quality of your images. The best reason to add a UV filter would be for lenses that need a filter in place to complete its weather sealing.

    2. Remote shutter/Intervalometer

    So by now, you know that when capturing an image, minimizing vibrations goes a long way towards the eventual sharpness. It is one of the reasons that most cameras have a built-in delayed shutter function (usually 2 or 10 seconds). A remote shutter release gives you even more control over this functionality and comes in wireless/wired options. Some remote shutter releases (or cable releases) have basic or expanded options.

    One of these options, available in advanced remote shutters, is interval timing. An interval timer (interval meter or intervalometer) gives you the option of automatically taking images at preset intervals for a defined period. Hence the intervals can be small (seconds) or long (hours). This feature allows you to capture light as it changes over a period of time and is more commonly known as time-lapse photography. Consequently, the lines between advanced remote shutter controls and intervalometers became blurred over the years, as each now has similar functions. Most of the recent ones are now easier to use as they are integrated into phone apps.

    Fun with an Interval Timer

    Some camera models come with built-in interval timers. If your camera already has this, you need an intervalometer only when the more advanced features are required. This includes setting the timer to wait more than 10 seconds before shooting or more time options before/between each image. Another good reason is if you want to tweak your settings between your images. When using the built-in function, the interval timer locks your camera for too long before you can make adjustments.

    3. Rain protection

    Even if you have a weather-sealed camera, large amounts of water can still damage it. As a landscape photographer, you have to be prepared for weather changes. Alternatively, it may be your choice to shoot in the rain or snow. If either is the case, you are better off playing it safe and protecting your camera body, lenses and any connected electronic accessories.

    Protection can be a simple or expensive solution, which ranges from shower caps or plastic/garbage bags with holes cut out or a purchase option. Camera rain protection (ponchos, sleeves, jackets, raincoats) are all variations of customized plastic solutions, tailored for shooting easier in inclement weather. Therefore, they are usually heavy duty or thin enough to maintain access to your controls, but more durable than your everyday plastic bags.

    A Neutral Density filter allows you to shoot longer exposures during the day.

    Ponchos/Sleeves are thicker plastic capes that fit snugly over your camera and usually have a drawstring to securely cover the lens body. Jackets are made from a similar weatherproof material as raincoats, which are usually more breathable material. These have cinch straps for medium and larger sizes and slip on and off quite easily. Thus jackets and raincoats for your camera are more durable (and pricier) than ponchos and sleeves. Whichever solution works for you, most take up very little space and should own a place in your camera bag.

    4. Flashlight

    Considered an essential pack for night photographers, this small tool comes in handy when you least expect, so keep one in your bag. If you are a sunset chaser, a small reminder that night follows closely. A flashlight can be useful to do a quick sweep of the area to ensure you do not leave anything behind. Furthermore, if you are a night shooter, these come in handy to focus or light paint a subject in the dark.

    Pro Tip: Choose a tough and lightweight flashlight and store it in an easy to reach outer pocket of your camera bag.

    5. Tripod feet

    Chances are you already know the importance of having a good tripod. In some conditions, such as mud, snow, uneven terrain or wet sand, adding tripod feet elevates your stability. Additionally, you can buy a one fit for all, although most of the top-rated tripods customize their tripod feet by terrain.

    Conclusion

    Some of the accessories you take with you can make the difference between a successful expedition and an average one. Choose what you pack wisely or customize it based on location. Either way, some accessories should just be part of your everyday bag, just in case.

    Which accessories do you always have with you?

    The post Landscape Photography Accessories You Need to Own appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


    Digital Photography School

  • Teaching at Porto Photo Fest this October

    Just a quick heads-up for anyone based in Europe that I’ll be teaching several classes at the Porto Photo Fest on October 12-13 this fall. This is the only time I’ll be teaching in a public event this year.

    The folks at PFF gave us a lot of control in structuring the classes (which they may live to regret!) But we think we have come up with some really cool stuff.

    PLEASE NOTE: There is currently early bird pricing in effect. So if you might be interested, it’s worth acting in a timely manner.

    Co-Teaching with Sara Lando

    I’m stoked to once be again collaborating with Sara Lando, one of the most creative people (and brilliant photographers) that I know. We will be co-teaching a class, something we last did together in Ireland in 2017.

    This Sunday, October 13 class will be on photographing people. It will be taught from two different perspectives. Sara and I will essentially be representing the right and left sides of your brain respectively.

    We’ll be flipping back and forth from between the lighting/technical side and the interpersonal/creative side. This is a class designed both to enhance your strengths and, more important, to really go after your weaknesses. At some point Sara and I will probably get into an argument. (Not to worry, she’s Italian, so this is perfectly normal.)

    This setup is probably my very favorite approach to teaching lighting, because it interweaves some more organic/human/creative layers with f/stops and lighting techniques.

    The course description is not very detailed, so here is what you should know. We’ll be a class of (max) 20 people, usually split into two groups of ten. We’ll work all day progressively hitting both the interpersonal stuff (with Sara) and the technical stuff (with me.)

    We will further separate into smaller groups of 3-4 people, and you’ll be shooting all day. Lighting equipment will be provided. If time permits, we may bust out a little Iron Chef-style competition at the end of the day. We’ll have to see. No matter what, this class will be both fast-paced and fun.

    Portrait Class details and signup

    In the Fish Bowl

    Later Sunday evening, Sara and I will transition from our co-class to an onstage event where we’ll be putting some of these yin-yang principles to the test in front of an audience, real-time, mistakes and all. Think of it as a tag-team portrait session between two brains that think nothing alike.

    If you are in the day class, you are automatically included in the evening event. But you can also attend separately.

    (Way) Outside the Box

    On Saturday morning (October 12) I’ll be doing a 3-hour talk on some of the things we usually don’t think about as photographers. But these are things that, in retrospect, probably should have been obvious. This is an evolution of a talk I have given in Seattle, Berlin and London.

    This class is designed to help you to integrate your photography with the rest of your non-photo life skills and expertises; to learn to think of photography not as an end-all but as a catalyst for creating more powerful and unique other things.

    We’ll look at how other photographers have quietly applied this approach to great ends, and I’ll help you to roadmap how you can learn to adapt this thought process to your own situation.

    In short, the key to being able to compete effectively with the bajillion other image makers out there is to create, and then own, a very un-level playing field. Because if life is not going to be fair anyway, it should at least be unfair in your favor.

    Class details and signup


    Strobist

  • Food Photography – When to Use Natural Light (and When Not To)

    The post Food Photography – When to Use Natural Light (and When Not To) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

    Food photographers, professionals and amateurs alike, know that natural lighting is among the best tools to take drool-worthy photos. However, there’s a time and a place to use natural lighting, and times when you won’t want to. In this article, we’ll discuss what natural lighting is and how it affects your photos – for better or for worse.

    What is natural lighting?

    Simply put, natural lighting is light produced by the sun. Another related term is ambient light, which refers to the available light in an environment. Ambient light could also be considered natural light if the photographer’s equipment is not producing it. In most parts of the world, natural light is abundant and can be used at no charge. This is one of many reasons why it is preferred by many photographers.

    Two types of natural lighting

    Generally speaking, there are two different kinds of natural lighting that you might want to utilize for photography. If you plan to utilize natural light for photography, it’s wise to learn about the different patterns of sunlight. Depending on where you live, you might have more of one than the other. You may have to adjust your style accordingly.

    Direct light

    Natural light - direct light

    Direct sunlight that results in a look with harsher shadows.

    A cloudless environment with full sunlight in the middle of the day produces direct light. This light is very intense, resulting in high contrast and very sharp shadows. The color of the light will vary depending on the time of day. In midday, it will be a neutral white color and a warmer tone of gold in the late afternoon. Depending on your photography style, you may prefer direct light if you wish to emphasize dramatic shadows and high contrast.

    Diffused light

    In a cloudy or overcast environment, natural light will appear diffused. This results in a soft, low contrast look with little to no shadows. Most photographers tend to prefer this lighting as you can make just about anything look good with it. If you have lots of direct light, you can also turn it into diffused light by using something like a shoot-through reflector.

    Natural light_Food Photography 01

    Natural sunlight that has been softened with a diffuser.

    What about artificial lighting?

    The opposite of natural lighting, artificial lighting is produced by gear such as speed lights or strobes. If the idea of flash photography intimidates you, consider this. Most forms of artificial lighting strive to recreate natural lighting. For example, a bare flash with no diffuser is akin to direct light, while a flash with a softbox results in diffused light. Even if you plan to use artificial light, it helps to understand natural light and how it affects your creative style.

    Natural light_Food Photography 01

    Natural light or artificial light? This is natural…

    Natural light_Food Photography 01

    …this is artificial light. It adds some dimension to the background but isn’t drastically different than the naturally lit image.

    When to use natural light for food photography

    Before determining what kind of lighting to use, consider your intended creative output. Do you want food photos with punchy colors and clearly defined shadows? If so, you want direct light and a cloudless, full-sun day is what you want. But if you want soft, diffused light for an evenly lit photo, a cloudy day will suit you best (or a sunny day with a reflector).

    After you figure out your preferred creative style, take a look a the weather. You may have to plan your photo shoot around weather patterns if you want a particular quality of natural light. Alternatively, you’ll have to bring extra gear with you to compensate for it.

    Natural light_Food Photography 01

    Food photographed in natural light during the daytime, when the light is neutral in color.

    When you may not want to use natural light

    There are two times of the day when natural lighting may not be your best friend. Those are the blue hour and golden hours of the day. These times of day are cherished by landscape photographers as they provide the most dramatic lighting in the sky. However, this may not be ideal for food photography. That’s because both blue and golden hours emit different colored light. A dish shot at blue hour may have more blue tinges to it, while the golden hour will cast it in a warmer tone. Some of this can be fixed in post-production, but most food photographers prefer shooting with neutral daylight so that the food retains its natural color.

    Natural light_Food Photography 01

    Food photographed in natural light during blue hour, just after sunset. Natural light at this time of day distorts colors all around. Great for landscapes, not for food.

    In Conclusion

    Generally speaking, using natural light is the simplest solution for photographers. It’s rather straightforward to use natural lighting, although adding tools to your kit such as reflectors and diffusers will help you take it to the next level. Also helpful is a general knowledge of lighting patterns throughout the day so that you don’t end up planning a natural light shoot during golden or blue hours (unless you want that colored light!).

    What do you think? Are you a natural light photographer, or do you prefer artificial light? Let me know in the comments below!

    Food Photography Light

    The post Food Photography – When to Use Natural Light (and When Not To) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


    Digital Photography School

  • Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation

    The post Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Africa Geographic announced its 2019 Photographer of the Year title, awarded for a dark, captivating close-up of an elephant.

    Just days later, the image was disqualified and the Photographer of the Year title revoked.

    winning image

    In a statement that’s become more and more familiar in past years, Africa Geographic explained that “post-production work by the photographer resulted in certain tears in the ears of the elephant not being accurately reflected.” This violated one of the Photographer of the Year entry rules:

    “Entries should be a faithful representation of the original scene. Localized adjustments should be used appropriately. The objective is to remain faithful to the original experience, and to never deceive the viewer or misrepresent the reality.”

    Africa Geographic provided another, unedited version of the same elephant:

    elephant unedited photo

    Note the holes and rips on the elephant’s left ear.

    The CEO of Africa Geographic went on to say: “We are gutted to have missed this detail about the rips in [the elephant’s] ears…That said, we will take this on the chin and improve our systems going forward.”

    When asked about the image, the winning photographer claimed that the violation was unintentional (that it accidentally occurred when he was “cleaning up the image,”) and the contest judges have accepted this explanation.

    This brings to mind a few questions:

    First, how unintentional was this violation? Looking at the disqualified photo, I have trouble believing that the photographer removed the holes and rips in the elephant’s ears by accident. Did the photographer not realize that such post-processing violated the contest rules?

    What are your thoughts? Did the winning photographer know that they broke the rules?

    And the second big question:

    Should this type of editing be allowed? 

    This is a much more difficult question, one that comes down to our values as photographers. Personally, I lean toward prohibiting this type of editing. There’s something important about showing an animal as it truly is, including all the hardships it’s faced, which I think the rips and tears in the elephant’s ears exemplify.

    But I’d love to have your input:

    What are your values when it comes to editing nature photography? What should be allowed in nature photography contests?

    The post Wildlife Photographer of the Year Disqualified Due to Image Manipulation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is FOG!

    Sydney Herron

    Go out and capture open plains, forests, mountains, bridges, or animals. Just be sure there is a beautiful mist/fog around it! They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Lukas Neasi

    Image by © Jaymes Dempsey

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting FOG

    4 Tips for Photographing Fog to Create Mystical Images

    Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos

    How to Make Use of Foggy Surfaces for Abstract Photography

    How to Use a Black and White Filter to Improve Your Photos

    4 Key Elements to Help You Create Stronger Landscape Photography

     

    Weekly Photography Challenge – FOG

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSfog to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Fog appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox [video]

    The post How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video by DIY FixMan, you’ll learn a cool, easy way to make a DIY photography softbox!

    Materials and tools

    What you will need to make your own DIY Photography Softbox:

    • A lamp
    • A cardboard box
    • Knife
    • Hot glue
    • Aluminum foil
    • Spray Paint (optional)
    • an hour of your time

    Steps to making your DIY Photography Softbox

    1. Cut out your cardboard to a size that will fit your lamp.
    2. Ensure you cut the angles of the sides so they are the same so that they will piece together.
    3. Get your foil and cut it to the size of your cardboard pieces (use your cardboard as a template to trace around.
    4. Attach your foil to the individual pieces of cardboard. Masking tape works fine for this.
    5. Attach one of the longest sides to a short side using the hot glue gun. Then attach the other sides – holding in place until set.
    6. Once set, take your lightbox frame to a well-ventilated area and use your spray paint to paint it.
    7. Once dry, fix in your long lamp.
    8. Attach to a stand using a bracket.

    Editors Note: You could also cut a piece of white material and attach it to the front of the softbox with velcro so you can diffuse the light.

     

    You may also find the following helpful:

    • Try this DIY Neutral Density Filter for Long Exposure Photos
    • DIY Photography Backlighting for Beginners
    • How to Make a DIY Lens Hood to Eliminate Lens Flare
    • How to Make Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops
    • How to Make Your Own DIY Light Box with Tape, Paper and a Window

     

    The post How to Make a DIY Photography Softbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Your Guide to Studio Lighting Equipment

    The post Your Guide to Studio Lighting Equipment appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    There’s a lot of studio equipment to get familiar with and with it, a lot of terms to learn.

    If you’re new to studio lighting, it is easy to get intimidated by the amount of stuff you have to learn. The jargon alone is enough to make your head spin. Fortunately, none of the things you need to be successful in the studio are particularly complicated, there is just a lot of it. The purpose of this article is to serve as a primer to introduce you to some of the most basic studio lighting equipment, and terms you will need to navigate a photography studio.

    This is not a comprehensive list, and with new tools and techniques being invented all the time, it could never be.

    A little warning: Some of these terms are used differently by different photographers. Others get interchanged with one another. While it can be confusing at times, it’s not necessarily wrong. However, it is useful to know about when you hear someone refer to a flag as a gobo or refer to ambient light as continuous light.

    Types of light

    Strobe – A studio strobe is a dedicated flash unit. They can sometimes be referred to as a monobloc or monolight. Usually mains powered, more battery-powered offerings are being brought onto the market all the time. Power output between models can vary greatly, with cheaper strobes offering as much power as a cheap third-party flashgun.

    Strobes are powerful flash units that pretty much dominate studio photography.

    Continuous light/Hotlight – Continuous lights serve the same lighting functions as strobes, but they don’t flash. Instead, they are high-powered lamps that can usually be fitted with modifiers in the same way as strobes. While mostly associated with video, continuous lights still have their place in stills photography. There are a lot of LED lights coming onto the market at the moment, and many of them are viable options.

    The hotlight moniker comes from the fact that they tend to get very hot. Be careful with modifiers that sit close to the bulb as they present a fire hazard. This does not apply to LED lights.

    Flashgun/speedlight – Flashguns are any small light with a hot shoe mount for placing on top of your camera. They are highly portable, and some come with reasonably high power outputs. Although their versatility is ultimately limited to their size and power output, they are still an extremely useful tool for any photographer interested in off-camera lighting.

    Flashguns are small but competent light sources that are invaluable for portable studios.

    Light functions

    Key light – Your key light is the main light with which you are shaping your subject. This will usually be the brightest and most prominent light in your scene.

    Fill Light – A fill light reduces the intensity of shadows created by your key light, thereby decreasing the overall contrast in your scene.

    Rim light/backlight – Rim lights light your subject from behind to help separate them from the background. Often, rim lights are positioned so that only a sliver of light is visible on the sides of your subject.

    Background light – As it says on the tin: background lights light the background.

    Hair light – Hair lights are used to add emphasis to your subject’s hair. They can also be used to help bring up the exposure of your subject’s head if it is blending into the background.

    Ambient light – This is any light that is present before the addition of any other lighting sources. This could be from lights in the room or daylight from a window or outside.

    Modifiers

    Umbrellas – Umbrellas usually come in silver or white and can be attached to your strobe via a mount. By firing the strobe into the umbrella (which reflects the light back to your subject), you are creating a much larger light source which creates a softer light. Although mostly directional, umbrellas can have a lot of spill, and they aren’t the easiest modifier to control.

    Umbrellas are your most basic modifier. They are good for soft, diffused light, but they are hard to control.

    Translucent Umbrellas/Shoot-thru Umbrellas – Translucent umbrellas don’t reflect light, but are instead made of diffusion material which you aim the light through. This softens the light, much in the way of other modifiers, but without the benefit of directionality.

    Translucent umbrellas also provide soft light, but they aren’t as directional as softboxes.

    Softboxes – Softboxes come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Once attached to your light, a softbox acts to shape and soften the light so that it is more flattering. Softboxes also tend to be quite directional, and they are easy to control and further modify.

    Softboxes are the workhorse of the photographic studio, and they come in all shapes and sizes.

    Strip boxes – Strip boxes are softboxes, but they are long narrow rectangles that produce a much narrower beam of light. These are great for lighting a subject from behind for a rim lighting effect.

    Striplights are a useful type of softbox that offer very directional light.

    Octaboxes – Also a type of softbox, an octabox is octagonal in shape. The rounder light source is useful for shaping the light for portraits. Octaboxes also tend to be quite large, making them an ideal modifier for portraits.

    Reflectors (the modifier kind) – The reflector is a modifier that goes directly on your strobe. They channel the light in a specific angle for very directional light. They are also a very hard light source. Most are designed to take a variety of grids.

    Reflectors, like this 110-degree reflector, provide a very directional and very hard light source.

    Snoots – Snoots are modifiers that are designed to focus your light in a very narrow beam. They are great for both hair lights and background lights.

    Snoots direct your light into a very tight and controlled beam.

    Barn doors – Barn doors are fitted with two to four flaps for you to manually adjust the aperture the light is let through. These flaps can help you narrow the focus of your light on a specific aspect of your subject (such as their hair), or they can be used to flag the light from hitting a spot that you don’t want it to.

    Beauty dish – Beauty dishes are directional modifiers that are somewhere in between soft and hard light. They are great for beauty photography (hence the name) as well as fashion and portraiture altogether. They often come with grids and diffusion socks to give you even more options in how to use them.

    Beauty dishes offer a contrasty light somewhere between hard and soft.

    Grids/Honeycombs – Grids are modifiers for your modifiers. Placed on a reflector, or softbox, or beauty dish, they narrow the beam of light further and help to ensure that the light is only falling on your subject (or where you want it to).

    Grids help you to further modify the directionality of your light.

    Gobo – A gobo is placed in front of a light source to change the shape of the light. This can be as simple as narrowing the beam and be as complicated as creating complex patterns. The easiest way to explain this is to imagine a Venetian blind with light streaming through. Now imagine the pattern on the wall. The blind is acting as an effective gobo and shaping the light.

    CTO Gels – Color correction gels are used when you need to correct the color temperature of a given light. For example, if you have a gridded beauty dish that is particularly warm (like mine), and you want to use another light as a hair light, that second light might be very cool compared to your key light. By placing an orange CTO gel on your hair light, you can match and balance the color output of both lights.

    Color Gels – You can also use gels towards a creative end. You can gel your lights to produce just about any color that you want to.

    Reflectors (the reflective kind) – Reflectors are an important part of any studio kit. These allow you to reflect light from your key light back onto your subject. They are a means of creating a fill light without using a second dedicated light source. Reflectors come in many shapes and sizes, from the ubiquitous 5-in-1 reflectors to fancy tri-flectors sometimes used in beauty portraits.

    Reflectors and diffusers are two vital tools when it comes to shaping and controlling your light in the studio. Also shown here is a reflector stand.

    Diffuser/Scrim – A diffuser is a piece of translucent material that you place in front of a light source to alter the shape of the light or to reduce the intensity of the light. Some diffusers do both.

    Flags – Flags are used to block (or flag) light from falling in your scene where you don’t want it to. You can use them to stop excess light falling on your background, or you can use them to reduce the exposure on the parts of your subject that aren’t the focal point. For example, sometimes, I like to use flags to help underexpose everything from the neck down in close portraits. This helps to ensure that the face is the main focus of the image.

    Studio accessories

    Light stands – Simply a stand to hold your light source. Ensure you have one that can hold the weight of your light. A high-powered, dedicated strobe requires a lot more support than a speedlight.

    This image shows a boom arm attached to a lighting stand on a dolly. It’s a fantastic and versatile bit of kit.

    Dolly – A light stand with wheels. Most useful.

    Boom arm – A boom arm is a light stand that you can position at any angle between completely vertical and completely horizontal. These are useful to get your lights high up and also to place your light at angles a traditional light stand wouldn’t be able to manage. You can mount different varieties of boom arms to other light stands as well as permanent fixtures like walls.

    Reflector Stand – A dedicated stand designed to hold a reflector in place.

    Background/backdrop – A backdrop is any surface that you place your subject in front of. These range from paper and vinyl rolls to bare or decorated walls to pieces of painted canvas.

    This image shows a painted canvas background. At the top of the frame, you can just see grey and white vinyl rolls on a motorized support system.

    Background stand/support – Any support system designed to hold a backdrop in place. These can be free standing or wall mounted.

    Clamps – Clamps and other fastening devices come in all shapes. You can (and should) use these to hold all manner of things in place. Backgrounds, flags, reflectors, gels, and many, many other things need to be held in place. For example, bulldog clips are indispensable for holding canvas backdrops up, whilst double-headed clamps can affix to a table and hold a flag or reflector.

    This image shows a selection of clamps and clips that will you always find a use for in the studio. The double-headed clamp is holding up a piece of black foam core for use as a flag.

    Rails – In bigger studios, you might see lights fixed to fittings on the walls and ceiling. These rails allow you to move your light relatively freely around a space without the hassle of a light stand.

    They also help to keep cords out of the way of you and your subjects.

    Other

    Quality of Light – Quality in this instance refers to the physical characteristics of light. These include shape, intensity, and color.

    Lighting pattern – A lighting pattern is a specific technique in which a light is placed in a prescribed manner for predictable and established results. Examples of these include butterfly lighting, Rembrandt lighting, and split lighting.

    PC Sync Socket/Cable – The PC sync is a means to connect your camera to a flash with a cable. You can use this option in lieu of triggers.

    Triggers – Triggers are devices that allow a camera to communicate with your lights and ensure that your flashes fire while the shutter is open. These range from very basic models with just one function, to complex devices that allow for full control over the settings of multiple lights.

    Triggers allow your camera to communicate with your flash so that they work in sync with one another.

    Slave mode – In slave mode, a flash will detect the light from another flash via a sensor and fire. This is great in situations where you have multiple lights, but only one basic trigger.

    Mount – A mount is the means in which a modifier is attached to a strobe. A lot of lighting manufacturers have their own proprietary mounts associated with their systems (Bowens, Profoto, Elinchrom, etc.) So you will need to ensure that any modifier that you buy will fit the system that you own.

    This is the shape of the commonplace Bowens S-mount.

    Modeling light – Many strobes come fitted with two bulbs. One is a flashbulb, where your strobe light comes from, and the other is a modeling bulb that is on whenever the strobe is not flashing. This makes it easy for you to see what the light is doing to your subject. As a bonus, if you’ve cut out all ambient light (like you should in a studio environment), modeling lights give you the ability to see.

    That’s a start

    While this list is not, and can never be, a complete list of studio lighting equipment, it should serve as a decent primer to get you started in the world of studio photography. If you feel that I’ve missed something important, please add it in the comments below.

     

    The post Your Guide to Studio Lighting Equipment appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


    Digital Photography School

  • Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color PURPLE and its use in Photography

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color PURPLE and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

    Purple has had a long history in visual arts. From prehistoric to modern artworks, purple has come to represent aspects of religion, royalty and status. In this article, we’ll look back on the history of the color purple, its evolution and its impact in the context of modern visual art.

    The psychology of purple

    In the traditional color wheel used by artists, violet and purple are placed between red and blue. Purple takes up the space closer to red, between crimson and violet. Violet is positioned closer to blue.  Despite this, both violet and purple are often placed under the one heading of purple, sharing psychological associations.

    As an intermediary between red and blue, purple tempers the extremes of both. Like blue, purple has a soothing effect, cultivating introspection and calm. Like red, purple also generates a visual vibration, stimulating creativity and passion. Lighter purples are considered light-hearted. Darker shades of purple are associated with wisdom and intellect.

    Over history, the limited resources and arduous processes needed to obtain rich purples made it an expensive luxury. For this reason, the color purple came to be associated with status, royalty and wealth. Perhaps due to it’s uncommon and distinctive presence in nature, purple has also been attributed to exoticism, mystery, and magic.

    In Christian tradition, purple is used during lent to signify mourning and majesty, anticipating the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. Hinduism associates purple with a oneness with God, peace, and wisdom. In China, purple represents spiritual awareness as well as physical and mental healing. Japanese cultures view purple as the color of privilege, wealth, and Japanese aristocracy. In Africa, purple is a symbol of status and wealth, whereas, in Brazil, purple can indicate mourning or death.

    The evolution of the color purple

    Hematite and manganese

    Used by Neolithic artists in the form of sticks, or ground and mixed with fat as a paint, hematite and manganese are the oldest pigments used for purple coloring in art. Dated between 16,000 and 25,000 BC, early artists used purple to draw and paint figures and the outlines of their hands on the walls of sites like Pech Merle cave in France. Manganese is still used today by some indigenous Australians as a traditional pigment for coloring the skin during rituals.

    Han purple

    Despite it’s name, Han purple has been found to occur well before the Han dynasty in China. Created by melting silica with copper and barium at high temperatures, Han purple first appeared on glass beads found at burial sites. The pigment was later used in wall paintings, ceramics, and sculptures, including the terracotta warriors in the tomb of Emperor Qin Shihuangdi in Xi’an. The use of Han purple peaked in the Qin and Han dynasties (221 BC to 220 AD), declining during the Tang dynasty (618-907 AD).

    Han purple can fade and decompose over time, particularly when in contact with acids or heat. However, the unique light-absorbing and emitting properties of the pigment generates powerful rays of light in the near-infrared range when exposed to an LED flashlight. This means that even faint traces of the pigment (invisible to the naked eye) can be viewed by conservators and scientists evaluating Han purple and its properties and history.

    Tyrian purple

    Ranging from a reddish to bluish purple, Tyrian purple became the most renowned shade of purple in history. Citizens of Sidon and Tyre, two cities on the coast of Ancient Phoenicia, (present-day Lebanon), were producing purple dye sourced from the mucous secretions of certain sea snails by the 15th century BC. The process for extracting the color from the snails was both unfortunate for the snail and protracted for the dye-maker as more than 10,000 snails were needed to dye a single cloak.

    According to an article in The New York Times, the extricated snails were “…boiled for days in giant lead vats, producing a terrible odor. The snails, though, aren’t purple to begin with. The craftsmen were harvesting chemical precursors from the snails that, through heat and light, were transformed into the valuable dye”.

    Tyrian purple was extremely pricey, and purple-dyed textiles became the color of emperors, generals, nobles, politicians, priests and magistrates throughout the Mediterranean.

    Although it was used predominantly for dying textiles, Tyrian purple was also used for painting. Tyrian purple has been chemically detected in the Saffron Gatherers, a late bronze age fresco in the Aegean Island of Santorini.

    Purple in the middle ages

    During the middle ages, artists created purple pigments by mixing red and blue mediums together. For blues, artists sourced blue azurite or lapis-lazuli. For reds, red ochres, cinnabar, madder or minium were used. Artists also mixed woad or indigo dye for blues and cochineal dye for reds. Different mixtures resulted in different intensities and shades. However, many of these materials were prone to fading and many paintings with purple have dulled or changed in color. Jan Gossaert’s painting of a young princess is an example of this – the pattern on the garments of the sitter, now seen as blue, were originally purple in color.

    Mauve

    In 1856, 18-year-old British chemistry student, William Henry Perkin, was working on a cure for malaria. During his experiments, he encountered an intriguing residue, the first synthetic aniline dye. Perkin realized the compound could be used to dye fabrics. He soon patented the dye and manufactured it under the name aniline purple and (confusingly) Tyrian purple. The color’s name was later changed to mauve in 1859, reflecting the French name for the purple mallow flower. Chemists called the dye compound mauveine.

    Mauve quickly became fashionable. Queen Victoria wore a silk gown dyed with mauveine to the Royal Exhibition of 1862. Perkin developed an industrial process, built a factory, and produced the dye in large quantities. His efforts made purple accessible to anyone, not just the wealthy. However, due to dye’s propensity to fade, the success of mauve faded too, replaced by other synthetic dyes by 1873.

    Cobalt violet and manganese violet

    The first truly violet pigment was cobalt violet, developed in 1859 by Salvetat. Ranging from deep to pale shades of violet with either a pink or blue hue, the first cobalt violets were composed of cobalt arsenate. The highly toxic compound is now rarely used, replaced today by cobalt ammonium phosphate, cobalt lithium phosphate, and cobalt phosphate.

    The only truly lightfast violet pigment with relatively strong color saturation, all alternative light-stable violet pigments are duller in hue. Although in use today, the high price, weak coloring power and toxicity of cobalt violet have limited the pigment’s application.

    Also known as permanent violet, Nuremberg violet or mineral violet, manganese violet is believed to have first been discovered by E. Leykauf in 1868. More affordable and less toxic than its predecessor, manganese violet became an economical alternative to cobalt violet in the 1890s and remains in use today.

    Love Symbol #2

    In 2017, the Pantone Color Institute announced a new shade of purple in honor of the singer Prince. The hue, dubbed Love Symbol #2, is a blue-based purple inspired by Prince’s adoption of the color throughout his career. Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Color Institute said: “long associated with the purple family, Love Symbol #2 enables Prince’s unique purple shade to be consistently replicated [while maintaining] the same iconic status as the man himself”.

    “Why this particular purple?” asks Pressman. “We are not sure of the exact reason, however, what we do know is that the language of this unique new purple, Love Symbol #2 conveys an aura of mystery, intrigue, and unconventionality, a color that stands apart from all others, something Prince, a performer of distinctive style, certainly did”.

    Purple in visual arts

    Ancient art to realism

    The use of manganese and hematite to create purple pigments dates back at to at least 25,000 years BC. Evidence of purple in art has been found at sites such as the remote East Kalimantan province of Borneo and Neolithic sites in France. Much later, during the early stages of the church, variations of purple garments marked the hierarchies of Christian officials (mirroring the practices of pagan traditions). In medieval art, pages of the bible and gospel manuscripts were written in gold lettering on parchment dyed Tyrian purple. In Byzantine-style painting, figures of importance were depicted in purple robes.

    Renaissance art saw portrayals of angels and the Virgin Mary garbed in purple. Because Jesus was said to have been clothed in purple by Roman soldiers during the events leading up to his crucifixion, purple also signified suffering, sacrifice, and majesty. The Assumption of the Virgin by Palma Vecchio features Mary dressed in a long purple gown. In Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam, God is dressed in a subtle lilac shift.

    Purple featured in post-renaissance movements such as baroque and rococo art, academic art and realism. In 1789, French rococo artist, Antoine Callet, depicted Louis XVI in his royal costume, which included a luxuriant panel of purple material. Painted between 1880 and 1890, Wladyslaw Czachorski’s Lady in a Lilac Dress portrays a woman in an opulent lilac gown. The Shepherdess by academic artist William-Adolphe Bouguereau features a cool, purple backdrop, rhyming with the shepherdesses’ own garments. However, as seen in Jean Francois Millet’s The Angelus, realist artists broke away from the depiction of purple as a status symbol, instead using subtle variations of the hue to reflect the harshness of middle and lower class society.

    Pre-raphaelite to abstract art

    Combining cobalt blue with madder, pre-raphaelite artists like John William Waterhouse painted women in rich purple garb. As seen in Monet’s Grainstack (Sunset)Waterloo Bridge, Blurred Sun and Water Lilies (1919), impressionist painters used purple to delineate both shadow and detail. Purple also played a significant role in post-impressionist art, as seen in A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat.

    The symbolism movement saw purple used in increasingly varied applications. In paintings such as Death and Life by Gustav Klimt and The Cyclops by Odilon Redon, purple is used to highlight detail and depth. Fauvism then pushed purple to shocking brilliance. Henri Matisse’s Woman with a Hat sees purple mashed together with a range of colors, creating life and vibrancy. In Woman in a Purple Coat, Matisse exploits purple as a bold separation of subject and environment. Mirroring impressionism, Andre Derain painted shadowy purples, as seen in Charing Cross Bridge, London. And Jean Puy used fluid purples to illustrate Strolling Through Pine Woods.

    As seen in Puberty by expressionist Edvard Munch, purple was distorted or exaggerated in ways that matched expressionism’s often hostile or alienated depiction of the modern world. Examples of purple in cubist art include Picasso’s Bowl of Fruit, Violin and Bottle and Claude, Son of Picasso. Abstraction, devoid of recognizable figurative imagery, used degrees of purple to evoke emotional responses in the viewer. Composition 8 (1923) by Vasily Kandinsky, Untitled (1957) by Franz Kline, Black Iris VI by Georgia O’Keeffe and Purple, White and Red 1953 by Mark Rothko are examples of purple’s application in abstract art.

    Purple in contemporary art

    As color technology evolved, purple became increasingly available to artists. In contemporary art, purple signifies both modernity and history, reflecting the social and cultural connotations of the color through time. Vaporwave, both a musical genre and artistic movement, incorporated the use of purple heavily in its internet-based aesthetic. Constructed of neon and tar, Dan Alva’s You Zig I Zag has roots in pop culture.  Monira Al Qadiri’s sculpture of an iridescent blue and purple oil drill illustrates the industrial processes of the oil industry. And Lori Hersberger makes use of purple in his sculptures and installations, exploring light and the transformative properties of color.

    Purple in photography

    Although it’s less available than other colors in the urban and natural landscape, purple is a favorite for many photographers. Because of its historically rare beauty, purple is often used to convey the surreal, the modern and the artificial. David LaChapelle utilizes purple to create striking contrasts signaling commodification and modernity. Marilyn Mugot documents the neon-purple landscapes of urban China at night, while Maggie West utilizes the otherworldly properties of purple in her bodies of work. Purple also has a strong presence in the experimental photography of Ellen Carey and in the aura photography of Christina Lonsdale.

    Interestingly, colour outside our visible spectrum can be explored photographically. Consisting of longer wavelengths than those of visible light, near-infrared (as opposed to far-infrared, which is in the thermal-imaging territory) is generally invisible to the human eye. However, with infrared film, an infrared filter or a converted camera, photographers can capture near-infrared wavelengths, which, when emitted from different types of foliage, are often rendered as ethereal purple tones. Near-infrared photography can be mimicked in post-production, creating beautifully alien landscapes out of earthly forms.

    Purple can also manifest as unwanted purple fringing. Most visible as a purple-colored fringe in the dark edges of a subject adjacent to illumination, purple fringing is usually caused by axial chromatic aberration. Because axial chromatic aberration occurs at its most severe at shorter wavelengths, fringing is rendered in violet. Methods for reducing purple fringing include shooting with a UV filter, avoiding overexposing highlights and not shooting with a wide-open lens in high contrast situations. Purple fringing can also be corrected in post-production.

    Conclusion

    From its origins in ancient art to its use in contemporary visual practice, purple reflects the visual complexities of life. As a combination of blue and red, purple absorbs attributes from each, inspiring clashes of calm and passion, stillness and visual movement. Due to its rarity in nature, purple has been associated with mystery and exoticism.

    Historically difficult to obtain, purple has become a symbol of status, wealth and majesty. Purple’s role in religion has been linked to spirituality and mysticism. And purple’s momentum is believed to inspire both creativity and reflection. With such a diversity in meaning and visual scope, purple’s versatility connects with a wide range of audiences. Evoking emotions based in art and life, purple is a color of intricacy and depth.

    We’d love to see your images that make use of the color purple. Feel free to share them in the comments below.

     

    The post Mastering Color Series – The Psychology and Evolution of the Color PURPLE and its use in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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  • How Journal Writing Improves Your Photography

    The post How Journal Writing Improves Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

    The obvious way to improve your photography is to study photography. But once you’ve had some success with the main principals of photography, you’ll be eager to go deeper and learning more photography principals won’t get you there. Rather than piling on more and more knowledge, you first need to go deeper with what you’ve already got.

    journal writing for photographers

    Use journal writing to pull yourself out of a rut as a photographer.

    Journal writing is the best way to go deeper with your photography. Through journal writing you discover what you’re actually struggling with, hone your creative vision, and measure your growth over time.

    Great minds throughout history have kept a journal of some sort. A journal is like a laboratory where you can get messy with your thoughts, vision, and creativity. You can work things out in the pages of your journal and bring them to life in the real world.

    Journal writing will take you into a deeper creative mindset, helping you do far more with those photography skills you’ve learned. The problem is that many photographers aren’t sure what to write in their journal.

    Here are several ways to use your journal to achieve deeper creativity with photography:

    1. Don’t worry about writing well

    journal writing for photographers

    Allow your journal writing to be a complete wreck.

    If writing well comes easily for you, then go ahead and write well in your journal. But if writing doesn’t come easily for you, do not try to write well.

    You’re not writing for the sake of writing well, you’re writing to stir up your creativity and improve your photography.

    “There are a thousand thoughts lying within a man that he does not know till he takes up the pen to write.” – William Makepeace Thackeray

    2. Write to get out of ruts

    As photographers, we find ourselves in a rut every now and then. We become dissatisfied with our photography, our photos don’t excite us anymore, and we begin to hate picking up the camera. If this hasn’t hit you yet, be ready. It seems to come out of nowhere, and can be devastating.

    Ruts will cause you to quit unless you figure out how to get out of them. Your journal is the perfect place to do that.

    At first, it will be difficult to be honest with yourself as you write. You’re always hiding what you really think from other people, and it’s rare that you actually go deep into your own thought process. But you need to be honest in order to get yourself out of a rut.

    I hit a rut a couple of years ago and discovered these things about myself through journal writing:

    • I have no vision
    • Photos I love the most feel raw
    • I wish I could be a kid with a camera again
    • The idea behind a photo is more interesting than the photo itself
    • I’m so awkward when it comes to people
    • Chaotic photo sessions are my favorite
    • Unless I’m working, I don’t pick up my camera anymore
    • The things that used to excite me don’t
    • I don’t know what to say about my photos
    • Do I hate photography?

    As negative as many of those thoughts sound, I learned a lot from them.

    I learned that I love to explore the world with my camera. There is joy in finding a chaotic scene, looking for patterns, and then bringing some order or beauty to the scene through my photos.

    Sometimes you have negative feelings for different reasons than you think. I didn’t actually hate photography, I just had blocks that I didn’t know how to get past. Once I got things out on paper, I could see what was standing in my way.

    In the middle of my photography rut, I took a camping trip with friends. I decided to just follow the kids around and join in the play with my camera. Being able to do whatever I want, even exploring crazy ideas, seemed to make all that frustration and hatred of photography melt away.

    simplicity in photography

    To me, simple things like kids eating dirt are a joy to photograph. I included the whole door of the trailer to make him look smaller.

     

    I came in close to see that he is covered in mud.

     

    Finally, I pulled back and dropped to a lower angle to make the shoe mat part of the scene.

    If there is something that really bugs you about your photography, or you have a vague sense of disappointment in your work, writing in your journal will help you identify your specific frustrations.

    3. Track your improvement

    If you don’t track your improvement, you will have no idea how you’re doing.

    When you’re tracking a goal, it’s better to measure how far you’ve come rather than how far you have left to go. It can be discouraging to look ahead at how far you still have to go, but encouraging to see how far you’ve already come.

    Tracking your improvement will help you to understand how far you’ve come on your journey. Many people are discouraged simply because they have no way of seeing how far they’ve come. Write it down so that you can see.

    I felt stagnant with my family photo sessions so I began tracking how I felt, what went well, what went wrong and ideas that I had toward improving.

    close-up

    I had in mind Robert Capa’s idea, “if your pictures aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” I got as close as I could to that teeter-totter.

    4. Clarify your vision

    “Vision is the art of seeing things invisible.” – Jonathan Swift

    Vision is an aspect of photography that very few people work to develop.

    We can see with our eyes and organize our photo according to the rule of thirds, but how do you see things that are invisible? How do you put invisible things in your photo?

    Writing in my journal helped me to see the invisible things that I already love to photograph.

    Spontaneity, chaos and awkwardness are not things that you can see, though they can be expressed visually. It’s in the fleeting expression that a portrait subject gives, the unpredictable nature of toddlers, even in the ability to push through and photograph a bridezilla well.

    Prior to journaling, I had no vision – after journaling (for a few months) I could finally see. My vision is about bringing order and beauty to raw, chaotic scenarios through my photography

    You can take your photography to new places and new levels once you have vision. You will gain vision when you write about invisible things and can see them in front of you.

    I’m pretty sure you’re not supposed to photograph moments like this. But “accidentally falling into the water” is just the sort of awkward moment I’m after. Anything to get out of a rut.

    5. Quotes

    Keep a list of your favourite photography quotes, they’re likely a clue to who you are as a photographer.

    On improvement

    “Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

    “If your pictures are not good enough, you are not close enough.” – Robert Capa

    “The eye should learn to listen before it looks.” – Robert Frank

    “I don’t just look at the thing itself or at the reality itself; I look around the edges for those little askew moments – kind of like what makes up our lives – those slightly awkward, lovely moments.” – Keith Carter

    On portraits

    “The most difficult thing for me is a portrait. You have to try and put your camera between the skin of a person and his shirt.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

    “When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in black and white, you photograph their souls!” – Ted Grant

    On the camera

    “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.” – Dorothea Lange

    “For me, the camera is a sketchbook, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

    “The camera is an excuse to be someplace you otherwise don’t belong.” – Susan Meiselas

    “Don’t pack up your camera until you’ve left the location.” – Joe McNally

    On the nature of photography

    “I tend to think of the act of photographing, generally speaking, as an adventure. My favorite thing is to go where I’ve never been.” – Diane Arbus

    “Taking pictures is like tiptoeing into the kitchen late at night and stealing Oreo cookies.” – Diane Arbus

    “The mission of photography is to explain man to man and each man to himself.” – Edward Steichen

    “I realize more and more what it takes to be a really good photographer. You go in over your head, not just up to your neck.” – Dorothea Lange

    Your favorite quotes are a clue to who you are as a photographer, and they’ll help you see that you’re not alone in your approach to photography.

    A lovely moment.

     

    photography quote

    A slightly awkward, lovely moments.

    6. Dream up the future

    Dream big in the pages of your journal. While you’re at it, dream too big. After a little while of dreaming too big, you’ll be far more capable of doing those big things you never thought you could before.

    You’re already working through frustrations and tracking your progress toward goals. This means that you’re learning to create the process that helps you achieve those (too) big dreams.

    Maybe you’ve got this wild idea of taking a long trip and documenting your journey. You’ve got yourself fired up within the pages of your journal. But is it realistic in real life? Probably not. Can you afford it? Can you handle it? Not likely.

    Go ahead and feel the frustration of dreaming too big, and having that dream start to fade away. Feel it until you realize it as a deep frustration. Now work through that frustration in your journal. Fight your way to make it real.

    Thanks to my journal, I almost signed the lease on an expensive studio space. But backed out at the last minute. I had dreamed a little too big.

    However, I’ve grown a lot as a photographer since then. I kept working through my frustrations and weak points. One of the problems was that I didn’t have a proper vision for the studio. So I’ve been refining my vision and building a community of amateurs and professionals whom I will share my studio with. I’m building something now that will already be alive and ready for a studio.

    I dreamed too big. But now I’m quickly growing into that dream thanks to my journal.

    7. Don’t write at all

    Your journal isn’t only for words – put sketches in it too. Even if you can’t do it well, a basic sketch can help capture an idea you have for a photo. Don’t be concerned about buying proper pencils and a sketch pad. Just cram everything in your journal.

    You might even consider printing your “sketch photos” to put in your journal. Sketch photos are the photos you take on the way to capturing your final image. Sketch photos are a way of photographing a scene in a variety of ways, making subtle changes until you get your photo just right. Sometimes the process takes a few minutes, but it could take months or years.

    The perfect journal

    Many people will avoid writing until they find the perfect journal. They’re waiting to find a journal that inspires them to write. Perhaps a hand-crafted, leather-bound journal with beautifully textured paper. After purchasing such an exquisite journal, they’re still not able to write. Don’t let this be you. You don’t need a nice journal, you just need to get your thoughts out (get the nice journal later on).

    You don’t need to feel good to journal. In fact, journaling when you feel miserable may be more helpful. Get it out and written down. Confront it, and begin to grow as a photographer.

    The perfect journal is messy, full, and always in use. And it will help you to become a better photographer.

    The post How Journal Writing Improves Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


    Digital Photography School

  • What is the Purpose of Your Photography?

    The post What is the Purpose of Your Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    What is the purpose of your photography? Having a good answer to that question, a predetermined purpose, and can help you improve your photography.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    For professional photographers, hopefully the answer will be straight forward. Whether the focus is on commercial, wedding, editorial or any other genre of photography. To provide your clients with the best images you can should be the ideal.

    Hobbyists and part-time photographers may find it more difficult to answer the question. Having a clear idea in mind as to why you take photographs helps you develop your skills more succinctly. If the ‘why’ drives you, your photos will be more impactful and memorable to those who see them.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    How having purpose can help you improve

    Concentrate on a goal, and you are more likely to get somewhere. Taking photos and having no real purpose for them can lead to discouragement or, at best, very slow growth.

    Setting yourself goals to attain, and even a time frame to work in, will stimulate your imagination. When you have an objective, you will think differently about what you now want to achieve. Ambling along will no longer be so satisfying.

    Learning will become more a part of your photography experience unless you’ve set your sights too low. Endeavoring to reach your goals should not be too easy. Pushing beyond what you are used to doing will mean you have to pick up some new skills.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Stock photography challenge

    Once you know where you are headed, you will discover what you most need to learn to get you there. If, for instance, you decide to sign up with a stock photo agency as a contributor, you’ll need to learn:

    • Which agencies are worth signing up for
    • The agency requirements for photos
    • What style of photos each agency wants
    • How the best contributors make a living from their photography
    • Post-processing skills to meet the quality level

    These things may not seem directly related to learning or growing as a photographer. Ask any number of successful stock photographers, and many will tell you they learned so much more of their craft after signing up. Also, good agencies have standards way higher than most casual photographers attain. Learning to reach these standards is a practical way to improve your photography.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Social media attention

    Maybe you just want your images to stand out more on Pinterest or Instagram. Whatever your preferred social media platform is, there’s tons of competition. Being motivated to gain more likes and shares is not a bad thing. Especially when it means you have to up your photography skills to do it.

    Learning from those who are already high achievers can help. Find some whose photos you admire and study them. You need a concentrated focus on what you want to achieve.  Without it, you can become easily overwhelmed by all the good, (and not so good) photos in your social media feeds.

    Set yourself goals. Be realistic about the numbers you want to attain. Focus your attention on discovering what you need to do to accomplish what you want. What camera skills need upgrades to make your photos more attractive?

    For example, if your main subject is food or still life learn more about:

    • Simple lighting setups
    • Graphic design within photos
    • Color combinations that work well
    • Lens choice and how it affects your subject

    If you photograph people, learn to draw out more interesting responses from them. This is not a camera related skill, but it’s mandatory in taking great portraits.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Part timer – weddings, portraits, etc.

    Is your focus is on making some money by selling your services to others? Keep your client’s needs in mind. Don’t be so full of your own ego that you don’t provide them with a service they want.

    Have a clear direction you want to head in. This is healthy, but it must include your clients’ requirements first. After all, you are offering them a service, and what good will it be to them if it’s not what they’d hoped for?

    You may need to improve your communication skills. Learn to make yourself clearly understood. This is as important as listening carefully to your potential clients.

    Again, these are not camera skills, but learning them well will certainly make you a better photographer. Your goal should be to make photos you are happy with and your clients will love. It’s no good just to satisfy yourself.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Photographs for your own enjoyment

    Of course, you may enjoy taking photographs for your own pleasure. If you’re not interested in making a little extra cash or sharing on social, having a purpose will still help you.

    Setting yourself short, medium, and long term goals will help you grow and achieve more. Even if you’re not willing to share your photos with anyone else, having something to aim for in your picture taking will help build your skills.

    Self assignments are a practical means of helping you grow and reach your objectives. Choose a topic that you love or want to learn more about. Pick anything that will hold your interest over a longer period of time.

    Plan how long you will make the project and what results you want from it. Remain flexible to lengthen it if you are really enjoying the process and experiencing growth because of it.

    As you work on your project, make sure to edit your photos as well. Don’t keep everything. Choose the best and place them in a separate folder. This way you are not looking through all your images, just the ones you like the most.

    Study them. Ask yourself why you find these ones better than the others. Compare them. Think about how you can make improvements to your photos and go back to take them again if you can.

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Conclusion

    Build some structure and have purpose for the photographs. Doing this will increase your satisfaction levels. You will experience more steady learning of new skills and improvement of existing ones. You will enjoy using your camera more because you will be taking better photos.

    Which of these ideas can you implement to help you have more purpose for the photographs you are making?

     

    The post What is the Purpose of Your Photography? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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