Category: Photography

  • 10 Cheap Photography Accessories that will Make Your Life Easier

    The post 10 Cheap Photography Accessories that will Make Your Life Easier appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

    Camera gear is notoriously expensive, but there are some cheap photography accessories out there. Here are 10 affordable gadgets that you should seriously consider adding to your camera bag, no matter what kind of photography you do. They can help make your photoshoots run smoother and your workflow more effective.

    1. Camera cleaning supplies

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    No matter how careful you are with your camera gear, it is bound to get dirty. Thus, it is essential to always have your camera and lens cleaning supplies on hand. Luckily, these items are pretty cheap, so there’s no excuse for not having them around. Here are a few cleaning tools in particular:

    • Lens cloth: microfiber cleaning cloths remove dust and smudges from filters and the front of your lens.
    • Rocket blower: also known as a bulb blower, use this rubber device to blow the dust off your camera sensor and the front of your lens. If using it on your camera sensor, be sure to point your camera downward so the dust will fall to the ground.
    • Lens pen: these have a similar function to lens cloths, but they are easier to keep clean and target problem areas.
    • Lens cleaning liquid: when a lens cloth or pen isn’t doing the trick, cleaning liquid will often give you the best results.

    2. Rain sleeve

    Even though many cameras and lenses are touted as weather-resistant, it’s still a good idea to carry rain gear with you. This is helpful not only for downpours but for shooting in other wet conditions such as riding on a boat or sitting in the first row at Sea World.

    There are all kinds of rain cover options out there, including regular plastic shopping bags and Ziplock bags.

    If you have a relatively small camera, a DIY home version might be just fine. But for those with larger cameras and lenses, it’s best to invest in dedicated camera rain sleeves, such as these made by OP/TECH. They are pretty cheap and reusable, and they have custom sizes to better fit your camera setup than what a regular plastic shopping bag can offer.

    3. Foldable reflector

    No matter what kind of photography you do, you should own a reflector. These flexible devices are great for adding a kiss of light to any scene. Reflectors come in many sizes and shapes.

    The most versatile ones are 5-in-1, offering white, silver, gold, black, and translucent surfaces.

    The latter surface is one that I use often to filter light and make it softer. This is where the LED flashlight can come into play if you filter its light via the translucent part of the reflector. Size-wise, reflectors can be pocket-sized, or human-sized. Get the size that makes the most sense to you or stock up on multiple ones.

    4. Bubble leveler

    Although many cameras have built-in digital levelers, sometimes it is easier to have a physical bubble leveler that you can always refer to. These cheap bubble levelers fit on the cold shoe mount of your camera and help you get a straight and level shot.

    As an added bonus, you can also use these to level other items such as prints of your pictures when mounting them to a wall.

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    5. Battery holder

    Most photographers have several spare batteries for their cameras. But do you have a method for keeping your batteries organized? If not, you need a battery holder. Think Tank makes battery holders for different capacities, such as 4 spare batteries or 2. They even have one for AA batteries. When I use these battery holders, I put them in facing the same way and replace them upside down as they drain and need to be recharged. That way, I know not only where all of my batteries are, but which ones need to be charged.

    Cheap camera accessories

    6. Memory card wallet

    Similar to battery holders, it’s also a good idea to have a memory card wallet.

    When I first started out in photography, I was a staunch believer in having as few memory cards as possible so that I didn’t accidentally misplace them. While this might be an okay practice for some, the truth is that camera file sizes keep getting larger. That means you’ll likely need to carry more memory cards.

    If you use more than one memory card, you should have a system for keeping them organized. That’s where a memory card wallet is helpful. Use them not only to keep track of your cards, but also to know which ones are empty, and which are full (i.e. by turning them upside down when full).

    Cheap camera accessories

    7. Silver Sharpie

    Have you ever noticed that a lot of camera gear tends to be black in color? Everything from batteries and memory cards, to camera bodies and lenses, they all seem to be the same color. This can make it tricky for labeling them with your name or indicators to tell them apart. Enter the silver Sharpie.

    This is one of those tools I never knew I needed until I started using it. The main thing I use it for is to write my name and a unique number on each of my memory cards. I have 13 of them, so I need a way to tell them apart. I do the same for my camera batteries, external hard drives, and all kinds of items.

    8. LED flashlight

    This is an item that is so small and easy to slip in your camera bag that you might as well carry one. Portable light sources have a variety of uses, namely helping you find gear in your camera bag in dark lighting scenarios. Flashlights can also help you make a creative image via light painting, or adding a bit of extra light to a scene, especially when paired with the next item on the list.

    9. External battery pack

    These last two items might be arguable in terms of their “cheapness,” but they have a relatively low investment price considering how long they can last. An external battery pack is especially helpful today since many modern cameras can be charged via USB input.

    You can also juice up your cell phone on the go, which is probably very helpful for photography since there are many smartphone camera apps out there to help you take better photos.

    I’m a fan of Anker battery packs, such as the Anker PowerCore 10000, which goes for about $ 30.00 USD. I’ve owned the previous version of this battery pack for over 5 years, and it is still going strong.

    Cheap-photography-accessories

    10. Joby Gorillapod

    These flexible tripods have been around forever and they are still incredibly useful. Think of those awkward places where a regular tripod won’t quite fit, and the Gorillapod is your answer for anchoring your camera to grab those unique shots.

    Admittedly, Gorillapods aren’t the cheapest accessories out there, but it does depend on which size you buy. Smaller Gorillapods (for smaller cameras) can go for under $ 30 USD, but the larger ones will go for upwards of $ 40 USD. This may seem cheap to you, or it may seem expensive.

    Either way, know that these Gorillapods are built to last. I have one that is over 7 years old and it still holds up both my Canon DSLRs and Fujifilm mirrorless cameras just fine.

    Cheap camera accessories

    Over To You

    There you have it – 10 (relatively) cheap camera accessories that all photographers should have.

    Would you add any items to this list? Let me know in the comments below!

     

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    The post 10 Cheap Photography Accessories that will Make Your Life Easier appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography

    The post How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

    Food photography is all about communicating an ambiance or mood. Plating, styling, and props will help, and using the right backdrop can go a long way to tie everything together. Learn how to use Photoshop to change the background without having to buy new ones.

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    To have the right background for every shot means having a lot of tabletops, pieces of wood, linen, etc. These things cost and take a lot of space. If you don’t have the budget or storage capacity for it, this article can help you out. By doing a good selection and using layers, I’ll show you how to change your background in Photoshop.

    A precise selection is key to change your background

    First, you need to be able to work separately on your background, for this, you have to select it. There are many selection tools in Photoshop, feel free to choose the one you want. However, I recommend the pen tool for more advanced selections. If you need some help with it check out: Why Learning the Pen Tool in Photoshop is Worth the Effort.

    Image: Use Photoshop selection tools to change your backdrop without affecting your subject

    Use Photoshop selection tools to change your backdrop without affecting your subject

    Once you’re satisfied you can duplicate the layer by going to Menu-> Layer->Duplicate layer.

    Now add a mask by clicking on the Create Mask button from the bottom of the panel. Because you had your subject already selected, it will create the mask with that shape.

    From now on, your changes will only be seen on the background that you had selected.

    If you would like to understand masks better, check out Photoshop Masks 101.

    change-background-in-photoshop

    Photoshop layers mask help you change the appearance of your background for food photography

    Modify the colors to simulate a different background

    Now you can freely modify the backdrop using any adjustment layers that control color, brightness, hue, saturation etc.

    Just click on the Create New Fill or Adjustment Layer button from the bottom of the Layers panel to see all the choices.

    Since you are working on separate layers, your original remains untouched and you can always go back to it if you do something you are not happy with.

    Image: Photoshop have many adjustment layers to choose how you want to change your backdrop in food...

    Photoshop have many adjustment layers to choose how you want to change your backdrop in food photography

    You can add as many layers as you want. For example, I modified the hue and saturation, then added a warming photo filter. Just be sure to always apply the mask to the layer (not the background) or the adjustments will show in the entire image.

    A white background is easier to change

    For this option, you need to have a texture ready before you start. You can buy them on stock photography websites, or you can make your own. I find it useful to photograph fabrics, wood, stones or anything I can use later so that I have many options available. For inspiration and details, you can read How to Create Your Own Unique Textures and Apply Them To Your Photography.

    Image: A white background allows you to incorporate textures and change the background of your food...

    A white background allows you to incorporate textures and change the background of your food photography

    Select the background like in the other example, only this time it might be easier because of the contrast created by the white background.

    Easy to use selection tools like Quick Selection or Color Range can save you a lot of time, just pay attention to the edges and details.

    Always zoom in to fine-tune your selection. Then save it by going to the menu Selection->Save Selection.

    change-background-in-photoshop

    A good selection helps you change only the backdrop with Photoshop tools

    Apply your texture as the new backdrop

    Now add the texture you chose for your new background. You can do this by going to Edit->Place if you want it as a Smart Object. However, if you don’t plan to modify it then just paste it on top. Either way, it will create a new layer on top that will cover your original image.

    Place or paste a texture in Photoshop to use as a new background in your food photography

    To give visibility to your subject, load the selection you saved by going to the menu Selection->Load Selection. Then click the Add Mask button like in the first example.

    Load a selection and add a mask to see the food on top of the background

    Integrate your new background

    Now you can see the cherries but they look a bit fake. To improve this, change the layer blending mode. I find Multiply does a very good job for this.

    If you want to know more about blending layers watch this Comprehensive Guide to Photoshop Blend Modes.

    Once you have done that, you can also adjust the opacity. The shadows now make the photo feel natural.

    Use blending modes to incorporate the background and make it more realistic

    And you’re done.

    It’s that easy to change your background in Photoshop!

    If you want you can keep on working on it to make it more dramatic or moody. Make use of adjustment layers, filters, and even more textures until you get the effect that you want.

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    Photoshop allows you to use layers, filters and textures to create special moods in food photography

    I hope you liked these ideas and found inspiration to keep on trying different things.

    Go out and give it a try, and share your images with us in the comments section!

    And to further improve your food photography, I’ll leave you here a list with some great articles.

    Recommended readings

    • If you’re feeling more crafty, try making Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops.
    • Keep in mind you’ll also need some props, so check out these tips to DIY Food Photography Props on a Budget.
    • And if you’re ready to really jump in with both feet, you can’t miss The dPS Ultimate Guide to Food Photography.

     

    change-background-in-photoshop

    The post How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    The post How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.

    monochromatic-color

    Monochromatic photography is often associated with black and white photography, but it is certainly not limited to just that. As the name implies, monochromatic is about one color. Thus an image that contains tones and variations of a specific color is termed monochromatic.

    How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    Why use monochromatic color?

    1. Convey Emotion

    Both color and the absence of color are viable options to convey emotion. Your choice of which to use depends on the story you are trying to tell. You may prefer black and white imagery for moodier scenes and to convey more intense emotions. Similarly, a single color used throughout your image can enhance or evoke different feelings. For example, red is commonly used to denote passion, love, and even anger, while blues invoke cooler, calmer and more subdued sensibilities.

    monochromatic-color

    It is important to note that different tones, tints or shades of a hue/color also change the intended emotion or its intensity, so consider the “feeling” of color. Tints and shades are a result of combining a single color with varying amounts of white (tint) or black (shade).

    Sometimes, the use of too many colors simultaneously provokes different feelings and can leave your viewer confused. When faced with such a dilemma, why not try a singular color to see if it achieves a stronger connection?

    How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    2. Simplify cluttered scenes

    Monochromatic color has the ability to simplify a scene by helping to diminish visual distractions. Again, a familiar thought processes used when processing black and white photography. Absence of color becomes a great way to highlight other compositional elements in the frame, such as texture, shape and form. Thus making monochromatic color another creative choice to explore.

    How to achieve monochromatic images?

    1. Shoot

    In our vibrant world, is it really possible to shoot a monochromatic scene? Interestingly enough, once you start looking for monochromatic color, it presents itself. So yes, it is everywhere around you, especially in urban landscapes, building interiors and even in nature. While the first two examples are more intentional, the latter is also quite common. In nature, look for scenes that embrace tints, shades, and tones of a singular color. Naturally occurring monochromatic scenes have the potential to be strong and interesting images.

    How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    If you are just starting out and have not yet grasped working with color harmonies, using the variance of a single color in your frame is a great way to start. The way light interprets and changes a singular color in a scene can be mesmerizing. This calculated option goes a long way in helping you pay closer attention to (and learning about) color.

    2. Process

    While naturally occurring monochromatic scenes are more realistic, post-processing is often used to achieve this finish. Processing monochromatic images has existed since the days of film and is certainly not a new creative spin. In the earlier eras of photography, both warmer tones (such as sepia) and cooler tones (cyanotype) were due to specific chemicals used while developing the film.

    How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography

    Interesting fact: Sepia processing back then brought more than warmth to a photo. The chemicals involved in that process slowed down the aging of a photograph thereby enhancing its archival quality.

    These days, achieving monochromatic color is much easier. The step-by-step process varies depending on the software that you use, but the principles are almost the same. In summary, the easiest way is to tone an image. This loosely translates to converting a color image to black and white/grayscale and then replacing the black with another color (also called tinting).

    You can further adjust your contrasts to make your light areas lighter and your dark areas darker for that added punch.

    monochromatic-color

    Monochromatic Color evokes a different emotion

    Check out this link on several ways to achieve this type of processing in Photoshop and here for doing so in Lightroom.

    Conclusion

    While black and white is the most obvious type of monochrome photography, monochromatic color is the use of any singular color throughout an image. It lends itself to emotional connections and simplifying your scene. Monochromatic color occurs in the natural world or can be achieved with post-processing. It is often a more minimalist approach that has the potential to create strong images.

    Is monochromatic color something that you personally connect with? If yes, share some of your favorites in the comments below.

     

    monochromatic-color-in-photography

    The post How to use Monochromatic Color to Convey more Emotion in your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Nisha Ramroop.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    The post How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

    Wedding receptions are often referred to as the most boring part of the day since the most exciting part are the bride and groom portraits. However, it would be wrong to treat receptions as such since receptions hold many of the meaningful details of an actual wedding celebration. So here are some tips on how to photograph wedding receptions with great success.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    1. Schedule the reception with a time buffer

    Weddings are high paced and often begin on time, but as the day progresses, it can be easy to fall behind schedule. When you’re creating the wedding day itinerary for your clients, add in an extra 15-minute buffer to any travel or transition time before the reception.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    The reason for this is because you’ll want to grab a snack and hydrate before getting into the last leg of the wedding day. You’ll also want to test out your gear, change batteries, or memory cards. Some photographers take this time to do the same-day slideshow.

    This extra buffer means no rushing to the reception but instead preparing your gear and yourself for the last few hours of the day so that you’re not running on empty.

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    It also will allow you to get to the reception early, which is my next point.

    2. Photograph the reception alone

    Getting to the reception area those extra few minutes early also allows you to photograph all the details without any guests in the background. This makes for really nice wide shots and closeup shots of the entire set up.

    You can then create real depth to your photos and zone in on particular details like the seating chart, place cards, centerpieces, and the sweetheart table. You can capture them without drinks, purses, or other guest items.

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    If at all possible, have the bride and groom enter the reception area and photograph them alone in the middle of the set up as part of their wedding portraits. It can add a little more emotion and tie the narrative of the event together.

    3. Make a list of all the must-have photos

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    Most wedding receptions are much the same in terms of what you should photograph for the bride and groom. While they can vary in time of day, location, or style, these are the main details that you should be sure to photograph:

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    • Entrance details: Do they have a sign? Are there photos from their engagement session? Is there a sign-in guest book, meaningful mementos like wood blocks to sign and write notes on? All of these are important to photograph as a whole and each detail individually or a group of details.
    • Wide photo of the space as a whole. Photographing the entire space gives the reception and final wedding photos a nice transition in the narrative or album. Take a few photos from different perspectives so that you can choose the best one for the final gallery of images.
    • Centerpieces: If there is only one style, photograph it both horizontally and vertically as well as taking a close up detail photo of it. If there are different styles on each table, take photos of each style. If, for example, they have placed a different photograph on each table, you don’t have to photograph each table. Instead, find one or two that you like and photograph two or three different tables.
    • Table seating/ seating cards: Table seating and table cards are how guests know where to sit during receptions. These may present in various and creative ways. You should photograph a wide shot of the setup and then a detailed photo of the seating. Choose a name that sounds familiar to you (perhaps a family member or member of the bridal party) to focus on for the detail photo.
    • Dinnerware set up: If you notice that the dinnerware and stemware have been chosen with a little more intention, photograph the setup. Get different perspectives and angles.
    • Florals: This is most likely to be found as part of the centerpiece; however, some weddings have beautiful florals decorating different parts of the space.
    • Desert table/candy bar
    • Cake
    • Lounge or seating area
    • Any other detail that you feel the couple put lots of effort, time, or money into.

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    3. Staging

    A big mistake that many new wedding photographers make is failing to stage photos. Staging the photos will help you get the perfect photo of the detail while still keeping the main aesthetic that the bride and groom have chosen.

    Image: Staging and moving things around can help the final photo.

    Staging and moving things around can help the final photo.

    This means, moving salt and pepper shakers out of the way, lighting the votive candles if necessary, turning a table number to face the camera, or even moving a chair so you can get the whole table in one photo.

    After getting your shots, make sure to place everything back to where it belongs. That way, when the guests arrive, they see the complete look and aren’t missing their water glass or chairs.

    4. Lighting

    If you are photographing a reception in a salon or closed venue, the lighting may not be ideal for photos. If the ceiling is white, you can use it to bounce light from your flash back down onto the table and reception details. This will give you more even lighting and a pretty straightforward light in your photos.

    Image: At left the flash is pointed to the side. At right, the flash is bouncing from the ceiling. Y...

    At left the flash is pointed to the side. At right, the flash is bouncing from the ceiling. You can see the difference in both.

    In addition, using an external flash attached to your camera, point the flash to the side so that you can get more side lit photos. These add more depth to your detail photos and adds shadow. For example, this type of lighting makes for great depth to cake photos and also centerpieces.

    You can also use an external LED video light or small light to help you light the reception details. This also gives you a lot more flexibility in getting different lighting that is immediately obvious. As for flash, you have to take test shots first to see how the light looks.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    Having an external flash can help you get really nicely lit photos. Use the flash in manual mode to control the output.

    If you don’t have any external lighting then you can use the ambient light for the details. Just make sure that your camera is stable enough to photograph by using a tripod. Having a fast lens can also help you capture ambient light.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    Be aware of the color temperature of the ambient light as well. This can change the color of florals, table linens, seating cards, etc. if you’re photographing with ambient light.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    As a good resource, you can also use your cell phone flashlight to help light or fill in light on the details that you’re photographing.

    5. Events of the reception

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    During the reception there will most likely be some, if not all, of the following events:

    • Grand entrance
    • First dance
    • Mother/Son and Father/ Daughter dance
    • Toasts
    • Cake cutting
    • Bouquet toss/Garter toss
    • Money or Honeymoon dance
    • DJ-led games or trivia
    • Dancing

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    All of these usually get coordinated by the wedding planner, bride, or DJ himself. Look to them to know what is next after dinner has begun. Never leave your camera and always be ready to photograph anything and everything that you feel is important or fun.

    Dancing is always fun. If you can make sure to photograph the key players, like the mother of the bride, bridal party, children dancing, or the best man, these all make for meaningful and fun photos later.

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    It’s really important to photograph the bride and groom dancing with their guests as well.

    Don’t be afraid to get creative when you feel like you have photographed all of the most important events. Slow your shutter to get interesting lighting effects. Use multiple flashes to light the dance floor evenly. Even get a different perspective of the party.

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    The main thing is to enjoy yourself while taking photos!

    6. Before you leave the wedding

    Before you leave the wedding reception, make sure to thank your clients and ask this one important question: Is there anything you’d like for me to capture before I leave?

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    This allows them to get last-minute photos that they may have forgotten to ask for earlier in the day. They may want a quick one with their grandmother or a photograph of them with their best friends from college.

    Do this about 10 minutes before you are set to leave. That way, you can have time to photograph all of those last-minute requests before you pack it up and head out.

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    It’s also a great way to say goodbye to the couple for the night.

    In Conclusion

    How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success

    Photographing wedding receptions can be really fun even though they usually happen at the end of a really long day.

    Give yourself some time to get into the mindset and get creative during the reception.

    Do you have any great tips on how to photograph wedding receptions? Feel free to share with us in the comments below.

     

    How-to-Photograph-Wedding-Receptions

    The post How to Photograph Wedding Receptions with Great Success appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


    Digital Photography School

  • The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test

    The post The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

    The Sony 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens was announced in 2017 along with the Sony A9. Both the camera and lens were highly anticipated by many professional photographers because they offer features that were long lacking in the Sony E-mount lineup. In particular, this lens with its far-reaching focal length appeals to sports and wildlife photographers. But with a price tag of just $ 2,500, this lens is pretty accessible to amateur and hobby photographers as well. In this post, I’ll give an overview of specs for this lens plus my thoughts after using it to photograph birds.

    Sony-100-400mm-lens-with-Sony-A7rIII

    Lens Specs

    The Sony 100-400mm lens is a variable aperture lens for Sony full-frame cameras. You can use it on Sony crop-sensor cameras, but its physical size might make it awkward to shoot with, especially if used on a tiny camera like the Sony a6000. There is optical image stabilization (OIS) that provides a degree of stability when shooting handheld photos and videos with this lens.

    Size-wise, it has a diameter of 3.7 inches and a length of 8.07 inches. The lens weighs approximately 49.2 ounces or 1395 grams. If those numbers don’t mean much to you, the 100-400mm is a very similar size and weight to the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8. Some might consider this lens to be big and bulky, but for the focal range, I think its size is reasonable and comparable to similar lenses made by other manufacturers.

    One thing is for sure: you’ll get the best quality if you use a monopod with this lens.

    In terms of physical buttons, there are two that are particularly helpful. One button is a focus range limiter that restricts the range of distances the camera will attempt to lock focus on. This boosts the speed of focus as well as focus accuracy, preventing focus hunting. The other feature is the ability to adjust zoom smoothness to prevent the lens from sliding out when carried.

    Sony 100-400mm Lens

    Best uses

    With a variable aperture of f/4.5-5.6, this isn’t a particularly fast lens, so it is best used in ample lighting conditions. Think broad daylight scenarios such as sports, nature, and wildlife. Portraiture may even work well with this lens, although most swear by the 70-200mm f/2.8 for people shots.

    For the field test, I paired the 100-400mm with the Sony A7rIII. Using a camera with more resolution (42.4 megapixels) is especially beneficial as the extra megapixels allow you to crop in. You can also take advantage of shooting in APS-C mode on the camera, which effectively doubles your focal range. The A7RIII can also shoot at up to 10 frames per second, and has the newly added animal eye autofocus tracking, making this camera very ideal for wildlife photography. Both the camera and lens have weather sealing. However, I did not test this feature on this shoot.

    Sony-100-400mm-lens-with-Sony-A7rIII

    Size comparison of the Sony 100-400mm to the Fujifilm 100-400mm.

    Lens alternatives

    If you plan to shoot in low lighting, the Sony 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8 lens will be more appropriate. However, those lenses are $ 5,800 and $ 12,000 respectively, so you’ll need deep pockets. Considering these prices, $ 2,500 for the 100-400mm is quite reasonable. You may even want to consider the newly announced 200mm-600mm f/5.6-6.3 lens, which is just $ 2,000, but considerably larger in size.

    So how was it?

    I took the 100-400mm on a weekend trip to go birding in Eastern Washington.

    Birds were aplenty, and this lens excelled at shooting them in daylight conditions at every focal length. Its size and weight made it possible to shoot handheld. But for extended periods of time and for optimal performance, it was best used when mounted on a monopod.

    Performance-wise, autofocus was fast and accurate. Animal eye autofocus (new to the Sony A7RIII and several other camera bodies) was hit or miss for birds, but I’ve heard that it currently works best on dogs and cats.

    Would I buy this lens?

    If I was an avid wildlife and birding photographer, I absolutely would. The price of $ 2,500 is more than reasonable for a lens with this focal range. Although, third-party lens makers such as Sigma and Tamron are producing some stellar pieces of glass lately and I would love to see them make a version of this lens for Sony E-mount.

    Sample images

    Image: 1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    Sony 100-400mm on Sony a7riii

    1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    Sony-100-400mm-lens-on-Sony a7riii

    1/1000 sec, f/5.6, ISO 400 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    Image: 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 800 at 139mm (in 35mm: 208mm)

    1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 800 at 139mm (in 35mm: 208mm)

    Image: 1/250 sec, f/7.1, ISO 500 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    1/250 sec, f/7.1, ISO 500 at 400mm (in 35mm: 600mm)

    Sony 100-400mm on Sony a7riii

    1/2500 sec, f/5.6, ISO 320 at 100mm

    Have you used this lens? If so, what are your thoughts? Please share with us in the comments below.

     

    Sony-100-400mm-Lens-review

    The post The Sony 100-400mm Lens Thoughts and Field Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography

    The post How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    The morning sun shone through my kitchen window, catching the vase with a rose in it on the window sill.  A low cross-light highlighted the texture on the rose, while the purple glass vase cast a pattern of colored light across the counter.  The photographer in me studied the light, saw the potential for a photo, and went to get the camera.

    Image: From observing the sun shining through a vase on the window sill to the finished image, this...

    From observing the sun shining through a vase on the window sill to the finished image, this idea started with simply seeing the light.

    A simple observation of light.  That’s how a photo can start – learning to really see the light. Understanding its properties, knowing how to control and shape it – those are the things that will take you from a casual snapshooter to a creative photographer. It’s a matter of crafting photographs rather than simply taking snapshots.

    George Eastman helped bring photography to the masses with his development of roll film, simple cameras, and readily available processing.  You’ve certainly heard of the company he founded – The Eastman Kodak Company.  Eastman understood the importance of seeing the light.

    He put it like this:

    “Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” – George Eastman

    Image: The vase set-up led to experiments with glasses, colored water, and more exploration of light...

    The vase set-up led to experiments with glasses, colored water, and more exploration of light.

    Harnessing the light

    The rest of the photo session explored the interplay of light, color, shadow, texture, shape, and pattern.  From shots of the glass vase and rose, I switched to glasses and vases filled with water dyed with food coloring.  I experimented with different camera angles, positioning of the subjects, and different background objects. I shaped the light with cardboard “flags” and the Venetian blinds through which the sun was streaming to allow different looks.
    The low angle of light also provided ways to cast shadows and projections of color.
    How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography

    In this case, the light source was simply the early morning sun.  I could have created other effects had I used artificial lights, say a snooted Speedlight to cast a beam of light right where I wanted it.

    Studio photographers become masters of light manipulation by using their knowledge and a variety of lights and light modifiers.  Their skills draw upon understanding the properties of light and how to harness it.

    Landscape photographers may not be able to create their own light, but they also understand its properties. They know when, where, and how to make the most of the light presented to create the look they seek.

    Light Physics – the properties of light

    You need not become a physicist to be a photographer, but a little understanding of the properties of light can be beneficial to your work.  So, a little science knowledge can help your art.  Left-brain, right-brain – good photographers use both sides.

    What is light?

    Light is photons of energy.  It has both wave and particle properties.

    Electromagnetic spectrum

    Human eyes can only see a very tiny portion of what is called the Electromagnetic Spectrum.  Some photographers use Infrared photography to go a little further past the red end of the visible spectrum, and ultraviolet light sources can take us a bit further past the violet end.  Specialized cameras can also capture X-rays.

    How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography

    Human eyes see only a tiny portion of the Electromagnetic Spectrum, that portion we call Visible Light.

    (transferred by Penubag (talk · contribs) on 05:04, 15 May 2008 [CC BY-SA 2.5 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5)]

    Properties of light

    When speaking of light, we often refer to its properties.  These are:

    Quantity – (Also called Intensity or “Brightness”)

    Quality – Photographers will use the terms “Hard” or “Soft” light.

    Technically, these refer to the shadows cast, not the light itself.  The hard or softness of a shadow (a place where the light is blocked), depends on the size of the light source relative to the subject.  Thus the sun, which is, in reality, huge, can cast harsh shadows (hard light). This is because as a pinpoint of light in the sky, its relative size to the subject is small.

    On an overcast day, the whole sky may be the light source – nature’s giant softbox – and the shadows are soft or non-existent.

    Direction – Light waves travel in straight lines.  They can be redirected however through Reflection or Refraction.
    Reflection – Light hitting an object can bounce off that object.  In fact, anything we see is a result of light bouncing off that object.  The apparent Color of an object is due to what colors (wavelengths) are absorbed versus those reflecting.  A red apple is that color because it absorbs all other colors in the spectrum and reflects only the red wavelengths.
    With highly reflective objects, the angle the light hits an object will be the same angle it is reflected. The angle of incidence = the angle of reflection.

    RefractionLight can pass through some objects and be refracted or redirected.  Put a pencil in a half-full glass of water, and you will see how the light is refracted differently as it passes through the air versus the water and the glass. Camera lenses shape light through refraction. The image projected on the camera sensor is actually inverted. It is the same as it was when view-camera photographers threw a cape over their heads to see the image on a ground glass before making their photo.

    Image: Dewdrops act as tiny lenses refracting the light passing through them.

    Dewdrops act as tiny lenses refracting the light passing through them.

    Light waves can:

    Pass through transparent or translucent objects.

    Transparent objects – little if any light is scattered as the light waves pass through – i.e window glass.

    Translucent objects – Some light passes through the object but waves are scattered and objects on the far side are not clearly visible.

    Reflect or bounce off an object  – We call highly reflective objects “shiny.”  They will often produce Specular highlights.  Objects which break up and bounce light in many directions have a matte quality and Diffuse the light.

    Be scattered – Light waves are bounced in different directions

    Be absorbed – As discussed, objects have color because they absorb some (colors) wavelengths and reflect others.  Because light has energy, the more light energy an object absorbs the warmer it will be.  This is the reason black, (which absorbs most of the light energy), warms faster than does white, which reflects most of the light.

    Be refracted (bent) as light passes through.  Denser objects refract light more (pencil in a glass of water shows example air vs water vs glass).  Diamonds have a very high “index of refraction” and thus are sparkly.

    Shadows – Shadows are formed where light is blocked.  Photographers seeking to understand light can learn much by studying shadows as they will give clues to the other qualities of the light.

    Image: This abstract image is all about the light and shadows

    This abstract image is all about the light and shadows

    Dispersion – Visible light can be separated into its component colors due to different degrees of refraction through an object. (This is how prisms work and how rainbows are formed)

    Image: A rainbow is an example of white visible light being split into its component colors when the...

    A rainbow is an example of white visible light being split into its component colors when the raindrops refract the light and disperse it.

    The Speed of Light – Light travels faster than sound at approximately 186,000 miles per second (300,000 km/s).  Sunlight takes 8 minutes, 20 seconds to reach us.  From the next nearest star, Alpha Centauri, light takes 4 years to reach us.  At night we see the light from stars that took hundreds of thousands of years to reach us.  Currently, the most distant star observed by astronomers is over 9 billion light-years away.

    Photography and light

    We know that without light there is no photography.  Building on the basics of light physics, we photographers have further ways to define light and how we use it.

    Photography and color

    General photography works within the visible light spectrum.  We use the Kelvin temperature scale to describe the color of light.  For example, a candle’s flame is 1,200K, which is towards the red-orange end of the scale, and a cloudless day is 10,000K, which is at the blue end.

    White balance

    The human brain is good at correcting colors under different light so that we usually see “correct” colors. Cameras need some help.  Using White Balance, we can index the color we want to be white or neutral in color, and all other colors in the scene will use that as a reference and adjust accordingly.  Thus images shot in daylight, with flash, or under tungsten or fluorescent lights can all be adjusted for “correct” color.

    A huge advantage of saving images in the Raw format is you can correct this later when editing. Unfortunately, .jpg images lock the white balance in during the capture.

    Image: The color of old tungsten light is quite warm, about 3200K on the Kelvin scale. This could ha...

    The color of old tungsten light is quite warm, about 3200K on the Kelvin scale. This could have been white-balanced to be more neutral, but for this image, the warm light added to the antique look desired.

    Image: With light, all colors combined equal white. With ink, all colors combined equal black.

    With light, all colors combined equal white. With ink, all colors combined equal black.

    Color models

    RGB

    Your camera can interpret the world of color and reproduce it on a color monitor, but in reality, it really only “sees” three colors, Red, Green, and Blue (RGB).  All other colors are created from these three.  Use a magnifying glass to see the pixels on your monitor, and those are the only colors you will see.

    Your camera sensor can also only capture those three colors.

    If all three of those colors or light combine at full intensity, the result would be pure white.  Because colors record by adding one to another, the term “Additive” is used.

    Any of over 16 million colors can be defined using the RGB model, which has 255 steps of each color.  So, white would be 255, 255, 255.  Black is no light and therefore has an RGB value of 0, 0, 0.  Pure red would be 255, 0, 0.  A mixed color like pure yellow is 255, 255, 0, and something like a deep purple shade might be 113, 58, 210.

    Image: Pure Red is a primary color in the RGB (Light) model with an RGB value of 255,0,0 but in the...

    Pure Red is a primary color in the RGB (Light) model with an RGB value of 255,0,0 but in the CMYK (Ink) model it’s a mixture of Yellow and Magenta.

    CMYK

    The RGB model works fine in cameras and monitors where we add light to the blackness to create color.  When printing, however, we are starting with a white piece of paper and subtracting from that white to create color.

    Instead of red, green, and blue being the primary colors, printers use Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black  (CMYK)  to create all other colors.  (“K” is used for Black because it is the last letter of the word and not used by any other color, i.e. (B)lue).  To save costs on ink, and to produce deeper black tones, unsaturated and dark colors are produced by adding black ink instead of just the combination of cyan, magenta, and yellow. So, while in the RGB model, pure red is defined as 255, 0, 0 the same exact color in the ink printing world of CMYK is something like 0, 100, 100, 0.

    So as not to make your head hurt any further, I will not get into the complexities of color spaces, printer profiles, gamut and how we can be sure what we saw is what the camera captures and finally appears on a print.  That’s a whole other and a quite complex subject.  For now, know it is a lot of science and a perhaps a touch of magic.

    Instead, you can read more about those topics here:

    • Color Management Can Be Easy
    • How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One

     

    How photographers control light

    As photographers, especially in studio photo work, we have the tools and the means to control the light.

    Here are the basic things we can do:

    Transmit – Using lights of various kinds we can transmit light onto our subjects.  We control the quantity, direction, and color of the light source.  By changing the relative size of the light source to the subject, we can also control the hardness/softness of shadows.

    Reflect – All objects reflect light to varying degrees (which is why we and the camera can see them).  How that reflected light plays off of objects, or how we might use other objects, (reflectors) to bounce light into a scene is one way we shape and control the light.

    Image: Many of the principles of light discussed in this article are present in this shot. Can you i...

    Many of the principles of light discussed in this article are present in this shot. Can you identify them?

    Diffuse –We can cause the light emitting from the source to scatter to varying degrees, (diffused), by shining it through translucent materials.  This how softboxes and other light modifiers work.

    Block – As light travels in a straight line, anything between the source and the subject blocks the light and creates a shadow.  How and where we create shadows is as important as where we allow light to cast.  Photographers use things like Flags, Gobos, and Cookies to cast and control shadows.  An example, a “barn door” on a lighting instrument is a type of flag.
    Image: This image is all about the light. The backlit leaves are translucent and pass a portion of t...

    This image is all about the light. The backlit leaves are translucent and pass a portion of the light striking them, filtering out some colors and passing the golden parts of the spectrum through them.

    When nature lights the scene – Landscapes – Landscape photographers and those using only natural light sources don’t have the same controls over the light, but they still need to understand it to become master photographers.

    Learning how light works, how direct sun, diffuse light, time of day, season, angle, diffusing factors like fog, smoke, rain, and other “atmospherics” affect the image are all a huge part of becoming a student of light.  A skilled studio photographer can create light.  A skilled landscape photographer knows when and where to be and then very often, simply “waits for the light.”

    Image: A smoky sky filters out many of the colors of the light and passes the warm yellow and red to...

    A smoky sky filters out many of the colors of the light and passes the warm yellow and red tones. The side of the wheat facing the camera receives no light and so is silhouetted against the sun. Learning to see the light is key to becoming a good photographer.

    Becoming a student of light

    Sure, you can just get out some glassware, fill it with colored water, place it in the sun and make some pretty pictures.  I encourage you to do that. It’s fun and you will likely make some nice images.  You need not know the physics and terminology to make nice photos.  But I encourage you to take it a step further.  Use it as an exercise to further your understanding and become a trained observer of light because I really believe George Eastman had it right –

    Know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.

     

    understand-light-and-color-in-photography

    The post How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


    Digital Photography School

  • Four Lightroom Tips to Enhance Your Landscape Photos

    The post Four Lightroom Tips to Enhance Your Landscape Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

    Lightroom has a vast array of buttons, sliders, and selection boxes that can improve just about any photo, but sometimes the options are so overwhelming you don’t even know where to start! It’s impossible to say what specific adjustments will work for any given photo, partly because there are infinite possibilities and every photographer is unique. However, there are a few Lightroom tips you can use with certain types of images, such as landscapes, that improve them with just a few clicks. If you have ever wanted to punch up your landscapes quickly and easily, there are four options that you can use right away to make any landscape look amazing.

    Four Lightroom Tips to Enhance Your Landscape Photos

    If you import a landscape picture into Lightroom but find yourself staring dazed and confused at the array of editing options, try focusing on the four items below. I use these on most of my landscapes, and you might be surprised at how well they work for you too.

    Of course, you can always continue tweaking and adjusting with as many options as you want, but these are great to start with.

    • Basic tone
    • Texture
    • Sharpening
    • Graduated Filter

    Learning to use these four adjustments goes a long way towards improving not just your landscapes, but many other types of pictures too.

    As you gain more editing experience, you will start to figure out what your editing preferences are and learn to adjust the options accordingly. Maybe you like a little more tonal contrast or a little less saturation? Perhaps you prefer your images to have a little less sharpness? Experimenting with these options helps you understand what you prefer. It helps you develop your skills as an editor to get the results you like.

    Basic tone

    Four Lightroom Tips to Enhance Your Landscape Photos

    There’s a reason that the Develop module in Lightroom has a panel called Basic. This contains the most popular adjustments that most photographers use right away. They are especially useful for landscapes too. The following are what I recommend as a starting point for these types of images.

    Highlights: Drag this slider to the left to make the brightest portions of your landscape a little darker.

    Shadows: Drag this slider to the right to make the darkest portions of your landscape a little brighter.

    Whites: Drag this slider to the right to make the white portions whiter

    Blacks: Drag this to the left to make the black portions blacker.

    To show you how much of an effect these simple adjustments can have on a landscape, here’s an image without any adjustments straight from my camera.

    Image: Shot at the National Tallgrass Prairie Reserve in Kansas. An unedited picture straight from t...

    Shot at the National Tallgrass Prairie Reserve in Kansas. An unedited picture straight from the camera.

    The picture is dull, lifeless, and not all that interesting. 15 seconds of adjusting those four sliders in the Basic panel does wonders and transforms it into a whole new picture.

    lightroom-tips-for-landscape-photos

    Highlights -43, Shadows +26, Whites +70, Blacks -51. No other adjustments were made.

    The resulting image is vibrant, lively, and exciting to look at, especially when compared to the original. It doesn’t take much work at all to use those four simple sliders when editing a landscape photo, and the results can be breathtaking.

    Texture

    The effect of the Texture tool isn’t quite as pronounced and may not take your breath away in the same way. However, Adobe’s latest addition to Lightroom can produce impressive results. While Texture is particularly useful when editing portraits, it can also bring out detail in grass and rocks, and other areas of a landscape image that has a great deal of natural texture.

    Many landscape photographers are already familiar with the Clarity tool, which can have a similar effect as Texture. But, the former can often lead to images that appear over-processed and artificial. Texture is really designed to enhance the look and feel of textured surfaces. If you have not tried it, you may be surprised by the results.

    I took the picture below in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, and while I did some basic Highlight/Shadow/White/Black editing, I really want to bring out the details in the evergreen trees.

    Image: I shot this while hiking near Seattle, Washington.

    I shot this while hiking near Seattle, Washington.

    Increasing the value of the Texture slider helps the trees to stand out. They come to life while leaving the clouds and sky virtually untouched. Adobe designed the Texture option to look specifically for textured surfaces. It applies the effect only where it’s really useful instead of across the entire image as a whole.

    lightroom-tips-for-landscape-photos

    Same image, with a value of Texture +90.

    When viewed at full resolution, the result is remarkable, but even on a small screen, you can see that the trees have become more pronounced. The background trees are clearer and more discernible as well.

    This new option in Lightroom is not yet as popular and well-known as Clarity, but it’s a boon for landscape photographers who want to spice up their images without going overboard.

    Sharpening

    The Sharpening tool has been an integral part of Lightroom for years, but might be overlooked by new landscape photographers who feel overwhelmed with all the features in front of them when editing their images. In contrast to Clarity and Texture, the Sharpening tool helps you emphasize the edges of everything in your pictures while also giving you the power to specify precisely how you want to apply the sharpening.

    As with the Texture tool, your results aren’t going to be as immediately impactful as other edits, such as the Basic panel. However, careful adjustments to Sharpening can add a level of resonance to your landscapes and bring to life the small details.

    Image: Shot at just outside a small town in north-central Kansas. Some basic edits applied, but no s...

    Shot at just outside a small town in north-central Kansas. Some basic edits applied, but no sharpening.

    The Sharpening adjustment, which sits in the Detail panel, has four parameters: Amount, Radius, Detail, and Masking. While these are all important, the ones I recommend you focus on are Amount and Masking. Move the Amount slider to the right to make your picture appear sharper and add a sense of crispness. After that, use the Masking slider to tell Lightroom where to apply the actual sharpening.

    You can hold down the Alt or Option key (on a Mac) to see how this works and adjust as necessary. The black-and-white preview updates in realtime. As you hold down the modifier key and drag the slider, it shows you just where the sharpening will be applied.

    Image: Adjusting the Masking parameter while holding down the Alt or Option key (on a Mac) shows a l...

    Adjusting the Masking parameter while holding down the Alt or Option key (on a Mac) shows a live preview of where the sharpening will be added.

    Use of the Sharpening tool is a great way to enhance your landscapes, especially when combined with some of the other editing options.

    Image: Sharpening added with the following values: Amount 114, Radius 1.0, Detail 25, and Masking 85...

    Sharpening added with the following values: Amount 114, Radius 1.0, Detail 25, and Masking 85.

    Graduated filter

    If you have never used the Graduated Filter on your landscape photos, you’re in for a real treat.

    This tool allows you to apply graduated adjustments to part of the image, and even edit the adjustments using selective masking and brushing. It’s a great way to bring out the rich blue of a sky, the subtle greens of grass and foliage, or implement other edits to part of your picture without affecting the whole thing.

    To demonstrate how the Graduated Filter works, I have a picture shot in southeastern Nebraska without any edits except for removing some spots of dust on the lens. The foreground is dark, and I’d like to change the color of the sky to reflect what I actually saw. However, global edits like the Basic panel just don’t work.

    Image: Shot in rural Nebraska on a chilly February evening.

    Shot in rural Nebraska on a chilly February evening.

    As a point of comparison, here’s the same picture with some simple adjustments, like in my very first example. The Basic adjustments help but don’t produce the results I’m after.

    lightroom-tips-for-landscape-photos

    Highlights -18, Shadows +100, Whites +34, Blacks -7.

    It’s an improvement but still a long way from what I want. Fortunately, the Graduated Filter is here to help! By applying this type of edit, I can alter the lower portion without affecting the upper portion. Also, the edit is applied gradually, so it appears more natural as the foreground recedes to the horizon.

    Image: No edits from the original except for a single graduated filter applied to the foreground. Te...

    No edits from the original except for a single graduated filter applied to the foreground. Temp 76, Exposure 2.16, Shadows 21, Blacks -13, Texture 50, Sharpness 20.

    You can go one step further and add additional graduated filters, which is especially useful when working with landscapes. In this image, I’d like to bring out the rich deep colors in the sky without affecting the field in the foreground.

    A graduated filter is the perfect tool for the job.

    Image: Second graduated filter applied to the sky. Temp -73, Exposure -.50, Highlights -45, Dehaze 1...

    Second graduated filter applied to the sky. Temp -73, Exposure -.50, Highlights -45, Dehaze 10, Saturation 16.

    I listed the Graduated Filter last because it’s the most complicated of these four adjustments you can apply to your landscape, but it’s also, in my opinion, the most powerful. There are lots of options for customizing your graduated filters, and it’s going to be worth your time to explore more. However, the example above should be enough to get you started.

    There’s so much more you can do with landscape photos in Lightroom beyond what I demonstrated here. These basics should be enough to get you started and help you bring out a lot of the color, detail, and vibrancy that your landscape photos may be missing.

    After learning these, I hope you start exploring the other options Lightroom has to offer.

    I’d love to see examples of your landscape photos in the comments below!

     

    lightroom-tips-for-landscape-photos

    The post Four Lightroom Tips to Enhance Your Landscape Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


    Digital Photography School

  • Learn These 5 Elements to Capture Interesting Architectural Photography

    The post Learn These 5 Elements to Capture Interesting Architectural Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    Architectural photography is an enjoyable genre of photography to shoot. It encourages you to visit and capture urban structures and environments, whether it be towns or cities, or whilst taking in views of majestic buildings, bridges, or interiors. Architecture can be present in many different forms from ancient to modern and both internal and external. If you have you ever wondered what steps to consider when shooting interesting architectural photography, this article will help you to identify some key elements to contemplate during the process.

    Architecture Photography 01

    Brasov, Romania

    1. Choose a subject

    The first fundamental aspect to consider when capturing interesting architectural photography is the subject. Your choice of subject can be anything from a streetscape to a city scene or famous landmark. Once you’ve found an object or theme to visit and photograph, think about what appeals to you about it. Think about what you want to photograph, such as the entire structure or just part of it.

    Whatever you decide to photograph, be happy with your decision and take some pictures.

    You can choose to focus on capturing wide shots and detail shots. A scenario where you may choose to shoot wide may include a prominent sky that adds beauty to the composition or a street scene that portrays many interesting buildings together. On the other hand, you may choose detail shots when there is a particularly striking facade or object on a building. For example, a statue makes a great feature on its own.

    Architecture Photography 02

    Bran Castle, Romania

    2. Select your camera settings

    The next thing you will want to do is set up your camera and choose your settings. In terms of architecture photography, you will need to select an appropriate aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. The aperture you choose depends on what you are trying to achieve with your photos.

    If you are trying to achieve a narrower focus and render the front or back elements of the image out of focus, you will want to select a wider aperture (smaller f/number) from anything between f/2.8 to f/5.6. A scenario where you may choose to use a narrow depth of field is when you want to isolate an object from the background such as a doorframe. Alternatively, another scenario may be when shooting a single point of interest such as a statue.   

    However, if you aim to make everything in your image sharper, I recommend selecting an aperture between f/8 to f/22. A scenario where you may want a wide depth of field may include stunning cityscape scenes. Here, you may want everything in focus within the frame. A cityscape can include some monumental buildings and the night sky or people walking within a street scene.

    Architecture Photography 03

    Cluj-Napoca, Romania

    A lower ISO is important to reduce noise in the final image, so I suggest an ISO of 100-400.

    The shutter speed you choose depends on the overall look and feel you want to achieve in your image. A faster shutter speed of 100th of a second or more will help to keep moving objects sharp such as cars or people. In contrast, a slower shutter speed of one second or more will let more light into your frame and start to blur moving subjects.

    3. Decide on a composition

    Architecture Photography 04

    Sibiu, Romania

    One important step in capturing architecture is the composition.

    Composition simply refers to how you arrange the elements in a frame.

    When looking at pictures of famous icons such as the Taj Mahal, Houses of Parliament or Big Ben, you’ll notice these structures often photographed in similar ways. One thing I would encourage is to find new angles of familiar landmarks when doing architectural photography – something that stands out from the others. You can achieve this by changing your viewpoint or angle.

    4. Shooting interior architecture

    Architecture Photography 05

    Sibiu, Romania

    When shooting interior architecture photography and exteriors, there are a few fundamental differences to consider, notably the light and composition. You will need to take into account the fact there is usually less light when shooting indoors, so change your settings to accommodate. Due to low light, use a tripod and slower shutter speeds to allow more light into your image. This helps you to manage different types of light, including candles, lamps, and outside light projecting internally. You will also need to balance mixed artificial and natural lighting.

    The other major difference is the composition.

    You may find more restriction photographing indoors than outdoors. Restrictions such as limited space, internal structures or part of the building’s architecture that may restrict or limit your view and composition. As a solution, use a wide-angle lens or try to take a step back (if you can) to get more of your chosen subject into your frame.

    Alternatively, zoom your lens in further to eliminate distracting elements.

    Structures often provide interesting internal features which can vary depending on the type of architecture and the country you are in. Church interiors, cathedrals, and even modern and historic buildings can all house hidden gems from altars to pillars, delightful structures, and stained glass windows.

    The best lenses for shooting small or large spaces are usually a 24-70mm lens or a wide-angle lens such as a 16-35mm.

    5. Shooting exterior architecture

    Shooting exteriors is one of the most popular and fun subjects in architectural photography. You will often see pictures of the exteriors of the most famous buildings around the world and in your local area in publications. If you choose to shoot exteriors, you may decide to focus on the whole structure, the roof or a particular aspect of the external building that is interesting.

    Architecture Photography 05

    Peles Castle, Romania

    Photographing exteriors can be challenging especially in changing light and high contrast conditions but can result in some great images.

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, remember these important steps when shooting architecture including choosing a subject, selecting your camera settings, deciding on composition and choosing whether to photograph interior or exterior architecture.

    Share any additional steps you have for interesting architectural photography and your images with us below.

     

    Capture-Interesting-Architectural-Photography

    The post Learn These 5 Elements to Capture Interesting Architectural Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


    Digital Photography School

  • The 5 Most Overused Photography Techniques [video]

    The post The 5 Most Overused Photography Techniques appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    In this video, James Popsys discusses what he believes are the 5 most overused photography techniques. Take a look and see if you agree with any or all of these.

    ?

    1. Water photos using Long Exposures

    James points out that photographers who always use long exposures whenever there is water around could be missing out on telling the true story of the scene. They could be missing out on the ripples, textures, etc. that are available in the true scene.

    He also states how he likes to imagine himself within a scene, and finds that some of these long exposures all feel too unreal. He knows he could never experience that in real life.

    What are your thoughts on that?

    2. Panoramas

    James loves panoramas and has done many of them himself. The problem he has with them is that he thinks some people who shoot them can’t decide on what their focus point should be so they just try and capture it all.

    Do you agree with that?

    He believes good photos are all about subtraction and taking things out of the shot to make the message stronger. So to shoot a good panorama, everything you are capturing needs to be of interest. Or else, you need to change perspective and your composition to get a better photo.

    Also, they aren’t great for viewing on digital media.

    3. Adding foreground interest

    James states that always trying to have a point of interest in the foreground isn’t necessary and that sometimes it can dilute what is already an interesting photograph.

    4. Golden hour

    Jaymes isn’t a fan of shooting during Golden Hour as he believes the color overpowers the subject matter. The light becomes the story rather than the place. The light steals the show. Photos can also become quite similar because it becomes about light and not composition or story.

    Shooting at other times of the day improves your composition skills.

    5. Sky replacements

    Jaymes isn’t a fan of sky replacements. They are becoming too obvious, and they look fake. He thinks it is outdated and disingenuous.

    What do you think? Are there other techniques you think are overused in photography? Share with us in the comments below.

    The post The 5 Most Overused Photography Techniques appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Texture

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Texture appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is TEXTURE!

    Image: Image by Glenn Harper

    Image by Glenn Harper

    Go out and capture absolutely anything that includes texture. You can photograph anything that has texture, or you can overlay textures in post-processing to create a whole new work of art. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. Just so long as they include texture! You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Image: Image by Rick Ohnsman

    Image by Rick Ohnsman

    Image: Image by Megan Kennedy

    Image by Megan Kennedy

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting TEXTURE

    How to use Texture to Improve Your Photos

    10 Tips for Shooting for Graphic Textures

    Texture as a Design Element in Photography

    Working with Textures – 8 Ideas to Get You Started

    How to Create Your Own Textures

    Applying textures in post-processing

    How to Add a Texture Overlay to Your Images for a Stunning Effect

    Beginners Guide to Creating and Applying Texture Overlays Using Photoshop

    How to Apply a Texture Overlay to Your Images to Create an Antique Look

    How to Use Textures to Create Compelling Photographs

    Weekly Photography Challenge – TEXTURE

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPStexture to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Texture appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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