Category: Photography

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week’s photography challenge topic is CHRISTMAS!

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas

    Aaron Burden

    It’s almost Christmas! OMG! Where did the year go?

    Thanks to everyone who has taken part in the challenges this year – it’s been great fun, and often inspiring to see all your images. And I hope you continue to take part in this coming new year too.

    So, for the last weekly photography challenge of 2019, with the theme of Christmas, you can take photos of anything that has a Christmas feel – portraits by the Christmas tree, with Santa, kids opening presents, or the family enjoying a Christmas feast.

    Image: Mike Arney

    Mike Arney

    Alternatively, you might like to capture the Christmas lights on the tree, or ones around your city or town. Capture a still life of Christmas items, decorations, do some food photography or just capture the overall vibe of Christmas.

    So, check out these inspiring pics, have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

    Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas

    Philippe AWOUTERS

    Image: Chantal DeGaust

    Chantal DeGaust

     

    Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

    Tips for Shooting CHRISTMAS

    5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season

    How to Take Beautiful Bokeh Christmas Images [With 39 Stunning Examples]

    How to Shoot Festive Lights from a Car

    How to Capture Candid Moments This Christmas

    16 Digital Photography Tips for Christmas

    5 Ways to Take More Meaningful Photos This Christmas

    How to Take Photos of Kids with a Christmas Tree Bokeh Background

     

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSchristmas to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Christmas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Win One of Two Great Lenses from Tamron!

    The post Win One of Two Great Lenses from Tamron! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    Tamron-lens-Competition-2019

    Win a Tamron Grand Prize Tamron 100-400mm (model A035) in winner’s choice of Canon or Nikon mount, and a Tamron SP 35mm (model F012) in winner’s choice of Canon or Nikon mount.

    Over the last several years, here at dPS, we’ve run very some very popular competitions with our partners to give away to lucky dPS readers some of their great photographic products.

    We are lucky enough to be able to do it again this month. For this competition, Tamron is giving away TWO lenses.

    Win one of two Tamron lenses

    These two unique prizes are designed to help every level of photographer create BETTER pictures. Tamron is the world’s most awarded photographic lens line. Each prize will be won by a different dPS reader. Here’s what you could win:

    GRAND PRIZE

    Tamron 100-400mm Di VC USD

    Tamron-lens-Competition-2019

    Tamron 100-400mm Di VC USD

    Our Grand Prize Winner will receive a Tamron 100-400mm Di VC USD Ultra Telephoto Zoom Lens.

    100-400mm Di VC USD Ultra Telephoto Zoom – Value $ 799. Winner’s choice of Canon or Nikon Mount. No Substitutions.

    2nd Prize

    Tamron SP 35mm F/1.8 Di VC USD

    Tamron-lens-Competition-2019

    Tamron SP 35mm F/1.8 Di VC USD

    The 2nd Prize Winner will receive a Tamron SP 35mm F/1.8 Di VC USD with Hi-Resolution across a wide range of focusing distances.

    Tamron SP 35mm F/1.8 Di VC USD – Value $ 599. Winner’s choice of Canon or Nikon. No substitutions.

    Learn a little more about Tamron here: Tamron.com

    How to win:

    To win this competition, you’ll need to:

    • Visit the above lens’ information pages and learn more about the lens’ and their core use.
    • Fill out the ENTRY FORM below and tell us why you’d like to win and HOW you would you utilize your chosen lens. Please note: there is a limit of ONE entry per person.
    • The deadline to enter is January 10th, 2019 11:59 p.m. PST (UTC-8). Comments left after the deadline will not be considered. Do this in the next 21 days, and on January 17, 2020, the team will choose the best two answers, and we will announce the winners in the following days.
    • The winner is responsible for any taxes, tariffs, etc.

    By “best” – we’re looking for you to show an understanding of the lenses and how they will best suit your needs. So, you’ll need to check out the product pages to put yourself in the best position to win. There’s no need to write essay-length comments – but we’re looking to hear what you like about the lens and how it would help your development as a photographer.

    This contest is open to everyone, no matter where you live – but there is only one entry per person. To enter – simply fill out the form below.

    See the competition terms and conditions.

    Image: Focal length: 400mm Exposure: F/6.3, 1/1250sec, ISO 400Tamron Stock Photo

    Focal length: 400mm Exposure: F/6.3, 1/1250sec, ISO 400
    Tamron Stock Photo

    Image: Focal length: 35mm Exposure F/2.2 1/500secTamron Stock Photo

    Focal length: 35mm Exposure F/2.2 1/500sec
    Tamron Stock Photo

    About Tamron

    Disclaimer: Tamron is a paid partner of dPS.

    Entry Form

    Tamron Contest December 2019 Entry Form

    Enter below for your chance to win!
















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    The post Win One of Two Great Lenses from Tamron! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash

    The post How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

    fantastic-portraits-with-one-flash

    Using a flash for portraits can be a great way to enter the world of studio lighting without having to spend too much on an expensive lighting kit. While there are affordable systems, using a flash is both easy to set up and use when you know how to do it right. After some practice, you’ll achieve looks that have that studio quality and creative lighting all-in-one.

    Image: Use one flash for portraits and bounce light off the ceiling for an even light on your client...

    Use one flash for portraits and bounce light off the ceiling for an even light on your client’s face.

    Why use flash for portraits?

    Flash can give you the portability that you’re looking for in a lighting system without having to carry extra gear just to use it. You can use a flash on or off-camera. It offers versatility in use so that you can achieve the look you want in your portraits.

    Image: Use one flash on-camera to light your clients against a sunset sky.

    Use one flash on-camera to light your clients against a sunset sky.

    Also, when you need to fill in light, say during sunset or compete with afternoon lighting, using a flash can help you get better exposure from frame-to-frame during your sessions. This gives both you and your clients more final images to choose from that are correctly exposed. You’ll also spend less time working on the images in an editing program.

    What kind of flash is best to use for portraits?

    While most flash systems are pretty good in their own right, you’ll want to invest a bit in a flash that is able to be used in both manual and TTL modes. Having a flash that has the ability to use both modes will give you more range during your portrait sessions.

    Image: Difference between flash and no flash. Notice the background in both pictures. This was using...

    Difference between flash and no flash. Notice the background in both pictures. This was using one flash on-camera.

    Choose a flash system that is compatible with your camera. It doesn’t have to be of the same brand family. However, choose one that is made to work with your camera brand. It will give you better results and have fewer faults when the time comes to set it up and use it. You will spend less time learning how to use it on your camera and more time experimenting with it instead!

    Modes on flash

    There are two main modes on a flash and both have their purpose when it comes to portraits: TTL and manual.

    How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash

    One mode is TTL, which means “through the lens.” It’s when the flash meters the light and then chooses how much light it will fire when you take the photo. This result can sometimes be inconsistent lighting frame-to-frame, but it’s helpful when you need to work quickly without having much time to change the settings.

    TTL does come with flash compensation, however, so you can choose it to output more light or less light depending on what you want to achieve for your portraits. This will still allow the flash to meter and adjust accordingly on its own – thinking for you.

    Image: Use TTL when you need to fire the flash quickly without wasting time with the settings. Use f...

    Use TTL when you need to fire the flash quickly without wasting time with the settings. Use for moments that seem like they’ll pass quickly like fireworks. The flash meters the light and sets what it thinks is the correct power output.

    The other main mode is Manual.

    Manual allows you to set the power output from full (1/1), down to 1/128, on some flashes. This gives you control over how much light you want the flash to fire onto your subject and you can adjust as you go along. Manual gives you more consistent output and light since you only need to set it once. You can then leave it until your lighting situation changes or until you want to try something different.

    Image: Taken with one flash on-camera at half-power to compensate for the fading light.

    Taken with one flash on-camera at half-power to compensate for the fading light.

    Both modes are great to explore when using flash on or off-camera to achieve your desired look in the portraits you take.

    What happens when you use flash during sessions?

    When you use flash during portrait sessions, you’re essentially taking a photo of the ambient light and the flash in one photo together.

    Flash happens quickly. This is why many cameras often won’t allow you to use a shutter speed faster than 1/200th of a second so that your camera has time to capture the light in a scene. Some flashes come with an “h” button for high-speed sync, where it gives you the option to use a high shutter speed with the flash.

    Image: Hitt the “H” button to be able to use the high-speed sync mode and photograph por...

    Hitt the “H” button to be able to use the high-speed sync mode and photograph portraits with a shutter speed faster than 1/200th of a second.

    Changing your shutter speed only changes the amount of ambient light. Whereas, when you change or adjust the ISO and aperture, both change the flash and ambient exposure. Changing the flash power only changes the flash exposure.

    All are important to take into consideration when you use flash, whether on-camera or off so that you can correctly expose.

    Image: In the photo on the left, I used one flash off-camera to camera right near the couple. On the...

    In the photo on the left, I used one flash off-camera to camera right near the couple. On the right, no flash, same location and time.

    For example, you can leave the flash power at a consistent output and change the ISO and aperture to achieve the desired look you want.

    Image: Single flash tilted about 60 degrees toward the top with the bounce card up to bounce light b...

    Single flash tilted about 60 degrees toward the top with the bounce card up to bounce light back onto the girl’s face.

    When you’re getting started in using flash for portraits, keep in mind that you’re taking two photos in one exposure. A photo of what the flash lights and what it doesn’t. It takes some practice to achieve good results, so don’t worry if you don’t get it right the first time.

    On-camera vs. off-camera

    On-camera

    Flash, on-camera, works really well during portraits when you need to add a pop of light, or to bounce light to fill in shadows. It’s also great when you can angle it in a creative way to add some interesting light to your portraits.

    Most often, you can use the flash on the camera and get the right look for your portraits. Especially if they are families, weddings, and other similar types of portraits.

    Image: One flash on-camera pointed toward the client at night.

    One flash on-camera pointed toward the client at night.

    The great thing about external flashes is that they come with the ability to angle at different degrees. They also give you the option to rotate the head and get the flash to fire in the direction and angle that best fits your situation. For example, a bride getting ready in a room with low light is the perfect time to use the flash, either bouncing from the ceiling or wall perpendicular to the bride.

    Image: The photo on the left is with the flash angled to the side. For the photo on the right, I poi...

    The photo on the left is with the flash angled to the side. For the photo on the right, I pointed the single flash toward the ceiling to bounce light back into the bride’s face.

    Using the flash on-camera, angled at the ceiling will give you nice even lighting, especially if the ceiling is white. Additionally, if you use the flash pointed sideways, it will bounce light at an angle that will give your bride some shadows and thus more drama and depth.

    At a beach, for example, place the flash on the camera and angle it toward your clients. Here, you can make sure your clients are lit while the sun rises or sets. Depending on where you’re located, you can light them evenly while getting the colors in the sky exposed correctly as well.

    Image: Both portraits are lit with a single flash on-camera.

    Both portraits are lit with a single flash on-camera.

    If you’re competing with midday sunlight, with the flash on your camera, you can fill in shadows as you photograph your client. This is a good alternative to using a reflector or having an extra pair of hands to help reflect light.

    Another great advantage of having your flash on-camera is that it moves with you. You take your light where you need it. For example, if you’re following a child running along the seashore, your on-camera flash goes with you and fires each time you hit the shutter fully. That way, you don’t have to worry about moving the flash while trying to capture this fleeting moment for your clients.

    Image: Single flash on-camera pointed directly at the clients to be able to expose for both the back...

    Single flash on-camera pointed directly at the clients to be able to expose for both the background and clients.

    Another pro is that when the flash is on your camera, it’s faster to set or change your settings for the particular situation you’re photographing. Let’s say you need to work quickly while photographing the portraits for a bride and groom right after the ceremony.

    Having your camera on your flash will make it easier to adjust the settings and power output for smaller or larger groups as they can change from frame-to-frame. Or when you’re photographing in sunlight that keeps hiding and coming out from behind moving clouds. You can adjust your settings at each change of sunlight so that you can expose your clients perfectly.

    Image: Both photos use a single flash on-camera to light the client. Flash can be used indoors and o...

    Both photos use a single flash on-camera to light the client. Flash can be used indoors and outdoors.

    Off-camera

    You’re more likely to achieve more studio-like lighting to your portraits using off-camera flash. It’s also an excellent choice when you’re photographing individuals, couples, or in a closed space. The ability to trigger your flash while not attached to your camera can offer lots of different creative lighting angles too. It can give you results that more closely resemble what you had visualized.

    Image: Only one flash was used to camera left pointed at clients directly while I stood about 45 deg...

    Only one flash was used to camera left pointed at clients directly while I stood about 45 degrees from the flash.

    For example, in the photo above, the couple was walking along the shore. The cloudy sky didn’t offer us much light before setting behind the horizon. Having the flash off-camera angled at them, but also angled so that it lit the sand below, helped create more drama.

    Image: The photo on the left has no flash. However, the portrait on the right is using the flash off...

    The photo on the left has no flash. However, the portrait on the right is using the flash off-camera left. Notice the difference in the ambient light temperature (the lamp post lights are warmer in the photo with flash).

    With the flash off-camera and on a light stand, you have the ability to photograph portraits with a longer focal length without having to worry about changing settings.

    Let’s say you want to light a portrait with the light at 45-degrees of your client, and pointed down so it adds a little bit of drama to the scene.

    Set the flash and adjust the settings on a stand. Now you use a longer lens like an 85mm, 100mm, or the 70-200mm lens at about 10-feet of distance. You get the same results with other focal lengths because you don’t have to move your flash around.

    Image: A single flash was positioned closer to the client in front of me while I stepped about 10-fe...

    A single flash was positioned closer to the client in front of me while I stepped about 10-feet back to use my 50mm lens and get some interesting light on the portraits.

    The advantage of off-camera flash is that you get consistent lighting without having to worry about moving it around the scene even when you use a different lens and are farther from your subject.

    In addition, while the flash is on a stand, you’re able to use attachments like an umbrella or softbox with your flash and not have to worry about it falling over or moving it at all.

    Image: Single flash used off-camera on a stand. I placed it high to mimic the sun in a small bedroom...

    Single flash used off-camera on a stand. I placed it high to mimic the sun in a small bedroom.

    With off-camera flash, you’ll need to use a radio transmitter/trigger of some sort. That way, your flash, and camera can communicate wirelessly and achieve different lighting techniques.

    Some transmitters come with receivers, and you’ll need to physically touch the flash to change the settings. Other transmitters come with a built-in LCD screen where you can change the settings of the flash from your camera. This is a huge advantage if you are at a distance from the flash.

    Image: Single flash used off-camera on a light stand. I made the photos warmer in post-production.

    Single flash used off-camera on a light stand. I made the photos warmer in post-production.

    In conclusion

    How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash

    Taking portraits with one flash can be a much easier setup and offer many different lighting opportunities for your portraits. Whether you use the flash on or off-camera, you will be able to create and manipulate the light in your portrait both inside and out on location.

    Have you used flash during portraits before? Share with us your setup and experiences.

    The post How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


    Digital Photography School

  • Photographing Artwork? These Tips Will Make the Process Much Easier!

    The post Photographing Artwork? These Tips Will Make the Process Much Easier! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.

    photographing-artwork

    Photographing artwork may seem like a simple task, but it’s often hard to do well. There are technical hurdles to overcome, like achieving an even exposure, avoiding reflections, focusing accurately, choosing the right aperture, and so on. In this article, I’ll give you some tips on photographing artwork that make the process much easier!

    Photographing artwork

    Detail from ‘The Ninth Wave’ (1850) by Ivan Aivazovsky. Russian Museum, St Petersburg.

    Tips on photographing artwork

    The tips I’m about to give mostly relate to 2D art, meaning paintings, drawings or prints in whatever form they come. I’ve photographed most of them, ranging from grand oil paintings in national museums to antique newspaper illustrations at home.

    I will give a few tips on photographing sculpture, as well. Creating successful pictures of 3D art is not always straightforward.

    White balance

    When photographing artwork, white balance is not objective – there’s a creative decision to make. Do you want to preserve the color of the art as you see it or should you neutralize it and make the whites white? Will you be a historian or a restorer?

    Taking archival photos of old newspapers

    I could restore whiteness and original color in this Victorian newspaper with a single click, but using a gray card, I’ve reproduced its 125-year-old state. Lighting is overhead daylight.

    Paper and paint tend to discolor with age, typically with yellowing. So, you have to decide if you want to copy what you see or turn back the clock. That’s assuming you’re correct in your assumptions about the original color.

    To “correct” white balance, there are two main approaches:

    1. To make whites appear white: choose an area within the artwork that should be neutral in tone – preferably a mid-gray if one exists. By clicking on this area with a white balance tool, you’ll equalize the RGB values and, with any luck, correct color in the rest of the image. Problems arise when the artwork has aged more in some places than others, which tends to create ugly yellow blotches when you perform a WB adjustment.
    2. To preserve signs of aging: use a gray card to correct for the light illuminating the art, which keeps the existing color of the artwork including signs of aging. There will still be some slight shift in color since the appearance of all objects is affected by the light they fall under. But you’ll retain the overall appearance of age. You can always warm the photo up a bit if you want to emphasize the antique look.

    A third option, if you have no neutral tones in the image nor any gray card, is to fiddle with color temp and tint sliders until you think the white balance is correct. Correcting color by eyesight is hit and miss, however, and never as accurate as using numbers.

    Correcting white balance in artworks

    One thing we know about snow is that it looks better white. Artificial lighting and/or aging make this painting come out yellow in a photo. A white-balance tool quickly restores it, though it’s hard to always know how a painting looked when fresh. Artist: Ferdinand Schmidt (c1900), La Piscine Museum, Roubaix.

    The light source makes a huge difference to white balance. Avoid mixed lighting if you can. In museums, you won’t often find paintings under mixed light sources, but the same is not true of sculpture. A mixture of warm artificial light and window light causes strong orange or blue color casts in local areas of the picture. This can be hard to deal with in post-processing.

    white balance adjustments for artwork

    Art museums don’t tend to display paintings under mixed lighting, but you might find sculptures near a window. That will often result in blue highlights and orange shadows. Sculpture: Epicurus and Metrodorus, Louvre Museum.

    Color correction, DNG profiles, light sources

    We’ve talked about correcting white balance when photographing artwork, but you can take color correction further than that. You can also correct for the characteristics of the light source.

    Fluorescent and LED light sources are more energy-efficient than old filament lights and don’t outwardly transmit heat. LED lighting is now very common in art museums. And yet its light is lower quality from a photographic viewpoint than that of halogen.

    Modern light sources emit either a discontinuous or narrow-band spectrum, meaning they reproduce colors inconsistently and sometimes not at all across the visible spectrum.

    Image: Art museums and galleries use one light source to illuminate paintings. It might be overhead...

    Art museums and galleries use one light source to illuminate paintings. It might be overhead diffused light or spotlights on a track lighting system. Photo by Riccardo Bresciani from Pexels

    To some degree, you can judge the quality of LED/fluorescent lights by their CRI rating. You need 90+ if you’re shopping for them, but a high rating does not make them equal to traditional light sources. The CRI test is a lenient, non-standardized test using a few color patches, so the difference between 95% and 100% is greater than the numbers suggest. Incandescent and halogen lamps score 100% by default.

    One way you can improve color in your photos when shooting art under modern light sources is to create a DNG profile. For this, you use a product like the X-Rite Color Checker and either X-Rite or Adobe software. You then apply this profile at the raw-conversion stage if the software supports it.

    photographing artwork tips - X-Rite Color Checker - white balance correction

    This page from an antique WW1 history book is clearly being lit from the right. Note the X-Rite Color Checker includes neutral patches for correcting white balance as well as color patches for DNG profiles.

    If you try to correct for LED or fluorescent lighting by eye, you are likely to need the “tint” slider in raw converters. These light sources vary greatly in their output along a green to magenta axis. Old filament lamps don’t behave the same way – their output always sits along the orange-blue Kelvin scale.

    Window light – Pros and Cons

    Photographing artwork

    This old advertisement was on display outside. Though the color temperature of daylight varies, no other light source displays color so fully across the visible spectrum. KattenKabinet Museum, Amsterdam.

    You’ll never beat daylight for its ability to display all colors of the visible spectrum with little bias. It’s an ideal light source for art. The only problem is you can’t control it very well. If you use window light to photograph a piece of art, the exposure will likely be uneven from side to side. There may be a stop or more difference. You can get this down to about half a stop or less if you use a reflector.

    Of course, you can even up the exposure in post-processing. One thing you can do is photograph a blank card or piece of white paper under the same light, which makes uneven exposure obvious when you see it on the computer. Use what you see there to correct other photos in the shoot.

    Photographing art using window light

    If you photograph a postcard by window light, flipping it over makes uneven exposure more obvious. The right of this photo is 25% brighter than the left.

    Use adjustment brushes, layers, and layer masks or a graduated neutral density filter to correct uneven exposure across an image. On-image local adjustments like those found in DxO PhotoLab are good. A graduated filter is a smooth way of dealing with it, but you can just as easily use brushes with lots of feathering.

    Perspective: positioning art for a photo

    When photographing a 2D piece of art, position it flat against a wall or table and try to get the camera sensor perfectly aligned with it. Otherwise, you’ll see the same “keystoning” effect you get with architecture, where vertical lines diverge. The subject of the art will be slightly distorted if you take it at an angle, though not always to a degree anyone will notice.

    One way you can align a camera with art is to use a spirit level on both. Test the surface that the art lies against to see if it is even, making adjustments with props if necessary (much like you would with a table leg on an uneven floor). Do the same thing with the camera, using a spirit level on the hotshoe or resting on a flat part of the camera in a tripod. It needn’t look professional if it does the job.

    photographing artwork tips - positioning

    Ideally, you want the camera to be level with the center of the picture when photographing art. I haven’t done badly with this handheld shot, though it’s slightly wonky to the right (wall-mounted paintings might tilt slightly at the top). The correction will be moderate. Artist: Lucien Jonas (1880-1947), La Piscine Museum, Roubaix.

    Spirit levels vary in their accuracy, but you’ll soon see if your method works or not with rectangular artwork. If it does, the horizontal and vertical edges will align with the 90-degree angles of your photo. If you’re off-kilter, you’ll see the slight keystoning effect.

    Does this matter? You can correct perspective in editing software, but only with a loss in edge-to-edge sharpness.

    The less you have to correct, the better.

    Using spirit levels in photography

    Use spirit levels along with any perpendicular lines in the artwork to achieve the best possible perspective. Heavy corrections for keystoning after the fact have an adverse effect on image quality, which may or may not be noticeable depending upon intended use.

    If all you’re doing is sharing a photo of a painting on Facebook, you don’t need to be fussy about aligning artwork and camera. Using sufficient depth of field will compensate for minor focusing errors and nobody’s going to pick you up on imperfect verticals! On the other hand, if you’re selling art online, you want to do the best job you can with the photos.

    Lens choice and depth of field

    A good choice of lens for photographing art is a 50mm or 100mm prime lens with decent close-focusing capability. Many people use macro lenses, not least because they create very little distortion at close range. A high-quality zoom will suffice at around portrait-length.

    You needn’t choose a small aperture when photographing 2D art, since you don’t need much depth of field. Closing the lens down two or three stops to f/8 often produces optimum sharpness, whereas much more than that reduces sharpness by diffraction.

    Focusing Accuracy & Live View

    Without question, the most accurate way to focus on almost anything is to set your camera up on a tripod and use live-view mode with manual focusing. Needless to say, it doesn’t work so well for moving subjects, but it’s the perfect technique for artworks.

    Using live view works well for 2D subjects but isn’t crucial unless you want perfect sharpness. You can focus adequately through an optical viewfinder and let depth of field take care of any minor errors.

    For 3D subjects like statues, live view is invaluable. It overcomes problems like field curvature, inaccurate focusing screens or focusing points and misaligned mirrors & sensors.

    Image: I’m far from ready to take a picture here, but I’m lining up an antique postcard...

    I’m far from ready to take a picture here, but I’m lining up an antique postcard in live view mode on the tripod. One problem with flat artworks is keeping them flat for the picture. You can use pieces of high-quality masking tape and clone them out afterwards, but be very careful not to rip off the paper surface upon removal.

    Technical issues often make it hard to achieve critical sharpness where you need it in statues – usually the face and eyes. You may not notice this unless you zoom into your photos 100%, but it’s easy for focusing to be slightly off, especially on large statues where you are shooting upwards.

    You can’t rely on focusing points or focus/refocus techniques, as they don’t always work. Live view and manual focusing overcome that.

    Avoiding reflections

    When you’re taking a photo of 2D art behind glass, one of the biggest hurdles to overcome is reflections.

    Sometimes it’s easier to move on to another subject, but there are ways of avoiding reflections in your artwork photos. Here are some of them:

    • Do not use direct on-camera flash. It’ll create a hideous hotspot in the glass that is impossible to remove after the fact.
    • Use directional light sources from the side – preferably two at equal distance (one at either side of the art). Non-directional light is softer but will create reflections from other items in the room.
    • At a museum, wearing black clothes can help in photographing small art pieces as it shows up less in reflections and absorbs light from other light sources.
    • Get friends or relatives in dark clothing to stand near the art and block reflections.
    • Use a large black scrim/screen and push your lens through it to photograph the object – same reasons as black clothing but more effective.
    • Use a polarizing filter to cut out much of the glare (increases exposure time or ISO, so not ideal for handheld shots in dim museums).
    • Shoot at a slight angle to cut out reflections and adjust perspective in post-processing. Overdoing this will noticeably decrease edge-to-edge sharpness.
    • Examine the artwork carefully for reflections that may not be immediately obvious – they have a habit of being more noticeable on a PC.

    Capturing texture

    If you want to capture texture in a piece of art (e.g. oil painting), the last thing you want is a diffuse light source like a fluorescent bulb. What you need is a directional light source from one side.

    In oil paintings, revealing texture usually means some light will reflect into the lens, which can be distracting. It’s a question of controlling the effect so that spectral highlights don’t ruin the picture. A polarizing filter will help as long as it doesn’t make other shooting parameters unusable.

    photographing artwork tips - texture in artworks

    The reflections in this oil-painted portrait emphasize texture but they’re distracting. Like all spectral highlights, reflections in art need to be subtle and kept away from focal points.

    Note that LED lighting is directional by nature. You can improvise at home by setting up LED narrow-beam G50 spotlights or similar. Otherwise, you can control diffuse artificial lighting or flash lighting with modifiers such as a snoot.

    photographing artwork

    Few artists laid down paint more thickly or wildly than Vincent van Gogh. You can see light reflected in this detail from one of his paintings, but it’s subtle enough not to detract from the bigger picture. Photo from rawpixel.com / Yale University Art Gallery (Source)

    Copy stands, light tables, and light tents

    If you’re photographing fairly small artworks, you can be ultra-professional by using equipment meant for the job. Personally, I like to save money by using Heath Robinson methods, but not all the gear I’m going to mention is expensive. I might even talk myself into buying some of it…

    Copy stands

    Copy stands include a base, two lights, a column, and an arm to hold the camera. They’re ideal for photographing large volumes of flat art because they’re ready to go, whereas setting up a tripod, camera and lights takes time. Copy stands usually cost from around $ 200, but you can pick them up secondhand for less than half of that.

    Light tables

    Light tables are often used to create product photos with a clear, smooth white background. You could just as easily use one for small artworks and ornaments. A copy stand is a better bet if you want to record flat artworks without a background.

    Light tent or cube

    Light tents tend to be five-sided cubes held together by wire or plastic frames. The sides are made from a translucent material that allows diffused light through. Also supplied are various backgrounds. Some tents have an aperture in the top that lets you point the lens downwards. This is ideal for photographing small, flat artworks.

    You need an even exposure for flat art, so lights of equal strength and distance either side of the tent are good. With sculpture, uneven lighting creates modeling and emphasizes form, so the set-up is different.

    Image: Light tents can easily be made at home by constructing a simple frame and covering it with tr...

    Light tents can easily be made at home by constructing a simple frame and covering it with translucent material. Photo: Alison Christine from North Yorkshire, UK [CC BY 2.0] via Wikimedia Commons

    Light tents are often cheap to buy, unlike light tables and copy stands. They’re often flimsy, too, but they’re worth trying for a few bucks. No viewer is ever going to question technique or how much you spent on gear if the picture works.

    Why photograph artwork instead of making it?

    Photographing other people’s art may seem pointless, but it’s a useful exercise in developing your creative eye. That’s especially the case if you isolate areas of a painting or sculpture, which forces you to study art closely. There are often several pictures within a picture.

    Image: Within larger paintings, you’ll see delightful details. Here, a young girl distracts he...

    Within larger paintings, you’ll see delightful details. Here, a young girl distracts herself with flowers whilst possibly slightly bored at a wedding table. Artist: Albert Fourié (1854-1937), Musée des beaux-arts de Rouen.

    The only activity I’d strongly advise against is making straight copies of work from living or recently-living artists (unless they are your client and they have commissioned you to do so) and trying to make money from them. Then, you’re on very thin moral and legal ice (in fact, you’ve fallen through it). Copyright durations vary from country to country.

    Of course, you might be photographing your own art to share online or sell on eBay. There is no photographic motive purer than sharing. The desire to share is, after all, in the heart of most artists, no matter the size of the audience.

    Do you have any other tips for photographing artwork that you would like to share? Please do so in the comments.

    The post Photographing Artwork? These Tips Will Make the Process Much Easier! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Glenn Harper.


    Digital Photography School

  • A More Lively Way to Capture Your Memories & Experiences

    The post A More Lively Way to Capture Your Memories & Experiences appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

    Deal 8 dPS Holiday Deals

    Day 8 of dPS Holiday Deals brings you 60% off this Photography Concentrate guide to help you “Capture Your Memories with Awesome Video”

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    Remember those disappointing photos that fail to capture the experiences, fun and excitement you had? Avoid missed opportunities by using your camera’s video mode. 

    As a photographer, you love capturing stories, beautiful moments, and slices of life.

    Guess what? Video can do all of those things … very, very well. 

    Video gives you an entirely new dimension: time. 

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    The post A More Lively Way to Capture Your Memories & Experiences appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


    Digital Photography School

  • SLC-0L-04: Red State, Blue State

    To learn to create evocative light with flash, it helps to better understand how we experience the continuous light we see every day.

    To do that, you'll need to wean yourself from auto white balance, and even to abandon familiar waypoints like your daylight WB preset. Because our goal is to learn to exist in a more fluid way along the Kelvin scale. Read more »
    Strobist

  • Easy Tips to Create Slideshows in Lightroom

    The post Easy Tips to Create Slideshows in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    slideshows-in-lightroom

    Lightroom has a built-in feature that allows you to create slideshows with selections of your photos. You can include music and add text overlays to slideshows in Lightroom. This can make sharing your work more appealing and interesting.

    Slideshows you make with Lightroom can be exported as videos and uploaded to Youtube. You can then embed them on your website and use them on social media.

    Step #1: Select photos for your slideshow

    There are many ways to select the photos for slideshows in Lightroom, but using the Library Module in the program is the easiest I know of.

    Select the photos you want to use when you are in Grid View by holding down the Ctrl (Cmd) key and clicking each image. You can then add the selected photos to a New Collection or Quick Collection.

    I prefer to add them to a Quick Collection because it’s so easy. When you have your photos selected, just tap the ‘B’ key and they get added to your Quick Collection. Once you have completed your selection, you can make a New Collection from the photos in your Quick Collection.

    Using Lightroom To Create Slideshows

    Select all the photos in your Quick Collection and press Ctrl (Cmd) + N to start a New Collection. Name the collection of photos for your slideshow. It will be added to the Collections panel on the left of your screen.

    Step #2: Arrange the order of your slideshow photos

    Arrange your photos in the order you want them to appear in your Lightroom slideshow.

    This is a key step in creating slideshows in Lightroom that will hold people’s attention. If the order of your photos is random they will appear disjointed. Having a good flow to the sequence of images will help you retain your audience’s attention longer.

    Create a slideshow with good flow and feeling. Look at composition, color, and meaning in your photos. Aim to place similar photos together. Or place them in a natural series if they are following a chronological timeline. Considering your story and the way the slideshow will play is very important.

    In Grid View, drag and drop each photo to the place you want it to appear in the Lightroom slideshow.

    Using Lightroom To Create Slideshows arrange

    Step #3: Make your Lightroom slideshow

    Once you’ve arranged all your images in the sequence you want them, click on Slideshow in the top menu. This opens the Slideshow Module view in Lightroom. This module has different left and right panels than you are used to using in the Library Module. If you can’t see them, press the F7 and F8 keys to bring them into view.

    Click on Create Saved Slideshow at the top right of the central panel. Name your slideshow and click on Create. Once you have made your slideshow in Lightroom, all the changes you make will be saved automatically.

    Using Lightroom To Create Slideshows create

    Step #4: Pick a template for your Lightroom slideshow

    Choose a template for your Lightroom slideshow from the Template Browser in the left-hand side panel. With the preset templates, it is easy to make changes later if you want.

    Run your slideshow to see how it looks. Are you happy with the layout and sequencing you have chosen?

    Easy Tips to Create Slideshows in Lightroom

    Step #5: Customize the design of your Lightroom slideshow

    In the right-hand side panel, you will find a series of windows. Here you can make changes to:

    Options

    In the Options panel, you can select the way you want your photos to display on each slide.

    You can have the photo fill the entire frame or part of it. You can add a border and drop shadow that you can customize. If you Zoom to Fill Frame a shadow cannot be seen in the slideshow even if you create one.

    Layout

    Here you can add space around your slides. You can choose how there is space above and below and to either side of your slides. By default, they are all the same, but you can uncheck the Link All box to customize.

    Here you have options for the aspect ratio you would like. These are Screen, 16:9 and 4:3

    Overlays

    In the Overlays window, you can add an identity plate, watermarking and rating stars. These options can be helpful when you are sharing your slideshow with wedding or portrait clients.

    Using Lightroom To Create Slideshows overlays

    Click on the text box to edit the text for the identity plate. Type in your new text and adjust the size and style to suit your taste.

    You can add custom overlay text to each slide. To do this, click the ABC which you can find below the main window. Type in your text and then drag it to the position you want. You can grab the text box handles to resize.

    Using Lightroom To Create Slideshows text

    Backdrop

    You can choose various options to create a background for your slideshows in Lightroom.

    Using the the Color Wash option adds a gradient look to the background. Choose colors that will work best with the photographs in your slideshow. Leave the Color Wash option unchecked to make a solid color background.

    You can choose to add a photo or other graphic as a background. Be careful if you use this option not to include a background image that conflicts with your photos in the slideshow.

    background

    Titles

    This is where you can add intro and outro text. You may want to include an introduction title or company logo. At the end, you may wish to display your website or email details.

    Music

    Select a music track to set the mood for your Lightroom slideshow. Choose an mp3 music file from your hard drive or find one online. There are lots of options to buy or find free music online you can legally use.

    Playback

    This is where you get to control transitions and how long each slide will stay on screen. There are manual and automatic options. You can also have it sync to the music track you have chosen.

    Adjust the options until you find a good flow for your photos when they are shown in the slideshow. Syncing to your music will work better with some tracks than with others. You may prefer to have each slide and transition the same length.

    Conclusion

    When you think you have got it right, press Play. Lightroom will prepare your slideshow and play it. You might want to go back and tweak the photos or design, which you can still do.

    Easy Tips to Create Slideshows in Lightroom

    Once you have watched your slideshow in Lightroom play through a few times, it’s time to export it. You can export it as a PDF or a video. A PDF can be used in a slide presentation, and video can be uploaded to Youtube or shared on social media.

    Click on the export option you prefer and name your slideshow. Depending on the number of photos you have in your slideshow in Lightroom, exporting may take a while.

    It’s that simple!

    Do you use this feature in Lightroom or have any other tips for creating a lightroom slideshow? Share with us in the comments.

    The post Easy Tips to Create Slideshows in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


    Digital Photography School

  • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)

    The post 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

    christmas-portrait-locations

    Everyone loves to see a nice portrait of the kids at Christmas. But it can be tough to brainstorm new Christmas portrait locations year after year.

    Whether you’re photographing your own kids, or you’re a family photographer, this list of Christmas portrait locations will give you plenty of ideas including tips for lighting and composition.

    1. Golden hour

    Christmas can feel magical and golden hour is a magical time of day for light. You can find some evergreens for the golden sunlight to filter through and create a magical feel for your portrait. Consider using the golden sunlight as a beautiful source of backlight.

    Christmas portrait locations

    Golden hour is approximately the first and last hour of the day when sunlight looks almost golden. Personally, I love to work with the last 15 minutes of sunlight. I scout my location a few days in advance and take note of the exact time the sun is at its best.

    2. Christmas lights in the background

    Christmas lights can also be a good source of warm light. They work especially well if you prefer to stay indoors. Keep the tree back in a darker corner and use a window to light your person (this works well when photographing holiday food too).

    You may find that a fully decorated Christmas tree can be a bit of a background distraction. A simple tree with lights adds a festive feel without being overwhelming.

    Christmas portrait locations

    The Christmas lights in the background echo the golden polka dots of her shirt. The catchlights in her eyes (created by the window light) help to bring the portrait to life.

     

    Christmas portrait locations

    You can see where she was positioned in relation to the window and the tree.

     

    Christmas portrait locations

    If you don’t have a window for a light source, you can use the flash on your camera. If you’re using your camera’s flash, there are two things to keep in mind. Keep the person away from the Christmas tree and get close to them with your camera. By staying close to them and keeping them away from the tree, the flash will light the person nicely but not overwhelm the tree with light.

    3. While it’s snowing

    If you live in a part of the world where there is snow, this is really fun for a Christmas portrait. But there are a couple of problems that you will likely run into.

    The first is that your photo may turn out looking very dark. This is because the snow is so bright that your camera meter naturally wants to darken the photo. One way around this is to shoot in full manual mode, then you can get the exact brightness that you want. Personally, I shoot on aperture priority and use exposure compensation to get the correct brightness for my photo.

    The second problem that you will run into when photographing during a snowfall is misfocused pictures. Your camera may autofocus on a snowflake in the foreground, leaving your subject out of focus. So, make sure to check your photo closely before packing up your camera. That way, you won’t be disappointed when you sit down to edit your photos and realize they’re all out of focus.

    Christmas portrait locations

    A darker background makes the snowflakes stand out more.

    Be sure to protect your camera in cold weather too.

    4. Christmas tree at home

    This is a perfect opportunity to capture both posed and candid moments. Again, window light will be your friend when lighting your subject.

    Notice that in the first photo I positioned the subject so that he is against a clean background. This way he stands out more and is not lost among the decor.

    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations

    5. A quaint storefront

    Our downtown street is filled with beautiful storefronts throughout December. These storefronts are a perfect Christmas portrait location. When using a storefront for a background, remember to frame the person neatly.

    Once your subject is framed, go for a natural smile! You’ll probably have to say something funny.

    Christmas portrait locations

    Notice how the boy is framed in this photo. He is balanced by the tree on the left and the windows on the right. His head is in a clean space with nothing distracting protruding from it.

    6. Rustic barnboard

    If you like a rustic aesthetic at Christmas time, look for an old barn to use as a Christmas portrait location.

    Christmas portrait locations

    In this first photo, she is placed right up against the wall. I’m using a 50mm lens with an aperture of f/1.8 so the boards are a little out of focus.

     

    Christmas portrait locations

    I brought her a few feet away from the wall in order to make the background go more out of focus.

    7. Use props

    You can use all sorts of props in your photos. Sometimes a prop to sit on is more than enough to add visual interest to your portrait.

    Christmas portrait locations

    With an overcast sky, you can make portraits any time of day without having to worry about harsh shadows from direct sunlight.

    8. Wrapping paper backdrop

    Find a wide roll of paper with a nice design to use as a backdrop. Place it next to the window and you will have a wonderful natural light source.

    Christmas portrait locations

    9. Decorate the wilderness

    It’s so much fun to bring a sack of Christmas ornaments on a hike and decorate a tree deep in the woods! Once you’ve done that, you’ve got a perfect Christmas portrait location.

    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations

    10. Choose a theme

    When thinking of Christmas portrait locations, consider building your portrait around a meaningful theme.

    Christmas portrait locations

    When my son was just two, I couldn’t resist creating a portrait inspired by Charlie Brown.

    11. Storytime

    Create a storytime theme using a big book as a prop. Remember that a window is a great source of light.

    Christmas portrait locations

    Try a posed portrait.

     

    Christmas portrait locations

    Once you have a nice pose, try a photographing a candid moment too.

     

    12. Go to a tree farm

    Perhaps you don’t have any nice scenery nearby. If that’s the case, then find a tree farm to use for your Christmas portrait location. If you don’t like the manicured look of rows of trees then go for an angle that doesn’t make it obvious that you’re at a tree farm.

    10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations
    Christmas portrait locations

    The perfect gift

    Have fun trying out several of these Christmas portrait locations! When you’re finished, your printed portrait will be one of the most meaningful gifts you can give to friends and family over the holidays.

    Do you have any other ideas for Christmas portrait locations? If so, please share them with us in the comments!

    The post 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Master Lightroom in a Weekend!

    The post How to Master Lightroom in a Weekend! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

    Master Lightroom in a Weekend

    Day 7 of dPS Holiday Deals is the gift of mastering Lightroom in a weekend with Adam Welch of Contrastly.

    Save 63% now

    It’s painful when you’ve paid good money for an editing program like Lightroom Classic, and in your heart you know you’re not using it to its fullest capacity. 

    Don’t waste hours and hours merely opening up Lightroom and then moving sliders around until you land on something that looks kind of ok … 

    One of our regular writers, Adam Welch, brings you “The Decoding Lightroom” video course to show you how to go from importing your images to editing them professionally and responsibly, as well as exporting them.

    Decoding Lightroom

    There are 20 video lessons that cover every module and panel in Lightroom Classic. With over 5 hours of video material, you could go over all the material in the course in a single weekend and start using Lightroom to its fullest potential.

    Normally $ 129, Adam is offering his course to our readers for just $ 49 USD today.

    Check it out and save $ 80 before the next deal arrives in just 24 hours, or just click through and watch Adam’s awesome video if you’ve ever wondered who the person behind his articles is!

    PS – You can still grab yesterday’s deal – any of our dPS eBooks for just $ 9, save up to 80%. Check them out here.

    The post How to Master Lightroom in a Weekend! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


    Digital Photography School

  • Are Micro-Four-Thirds Cameras Dead, or Do They Still Have Their Place?

    The post Are Micro-Four-Thirds Cameras Dead, or Do They Still Have Their Place? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.

    are-micro-four-thirds-cameras-dead

    In this article, we are going to look at whether micro-four-thirds cameras still have a place in today’s marketplace.

    In the course of the last year, there have been changes to the photography landscape with the introduction of several mirrorless full-frame camera models, particularly from the big two manufacturers: Canon and Nikon. After a long delay, they finally entered the mirrorless camera market in a big way with higher-end full-frame (FF) cameras.

    Beyond the big two, Panasonic (in conjunction with Sigma and Leica) also introduced a new mirrorless FF camera system and mount. This represents a sudden increase in competition in the mirrorless market for interchangeable lens cameras (ILC) and may indicate that the traditional DSLR is on its way out.

    Image: The new Full-Frame Canon EOS R mirrorless camera from Canon (image from Canon promotional mat...

    The new Full-Frame Canon EOS R mirrorless camera from Canon (image from Canon promotional material from canon.ca website)

    Previously, the mirrorless camera landscape was dominated by Sony, Fuji, Panasonic, and Olympus. Sony produced FF and cropped-sensor cameras while Fuji has produced medium format and crop-sensor cameras. Meanwhile, Panasonic and Olympus were only producing micro-four-thirds cameras with the smallest sensor of the bunch.

    Although Canon and Nikon were also in the mix with some cropped-sensor bodies, these cameras were half-hearted efforts and certainly not an area of emphasis for either company.

    Now, with Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Panasonic jumping in with both feet into the FF mirrorless market, is there still a market for micro-four-thirds cameras? Or, is the smaller sensor, micro-four-thirds camera systems basically dead?

    Image: Are MFT cameras dead? The Pen-F Micro 4/3s from Olympus

    Are MFT cameras dead? The Pen-F Micro 4/3s from Olympus

    Change in the micro-four-thirds camera landscape

    Some have postulated that Panasonic, one of the major manufacturers of micro-four-thirds (MFT) cameras, is moving out of these smaller sensor cameras.  YouTube photography celebrities such as Tony Northup and other Podcasters have made this very assertion: that MFT as a format is dead.  Is there any truth to this or is this just social media clickbait?

    Image: YouTube video bloggers have been suggesting that MFT is a dead format

    YouTube video bloggers have been suggesting that MFT is a dead format

    There are a few assumptions embedded in the idea that MFT as a format is dead, assumptions that have been neglected or overlooked in the chase for likes by social media pundits.

    Assumption: Panasonic must be moving out of micro-four-thirds cameras

    Panasonic recently released its new S-series cameras that are all FF mirrorless cameras. Observers take this as evidence that Panasonic is leaving the MFT system behind.

    Before jumping to conclusions, remember, Panasonic has released a lot of cameras and lenses over the years, all of which are MFT. In particular, the GH5 was clearly a game-changer for video. Compact and video intensive, it became the video standard for many vloggers and internet video shooters.

    Reality Check #1

    Most of the camera imaging revenue for Panasonic is from its large range of products in MFT formats, supporting existing Panasonic customers. In comparison, the new S-series format (there are three models) currently has only a limited number of native lenses as of November 2019. 

    To be fair, this new format will have offerings from Sigma lenses, and the new mount is compatible with Leica L-mount lenses. The Leica lenses, although available, are generally significantly more expensive than many other similar lenses. 

    This means that the S-series for Panasonic is a new territory and will not represent significant revenue until it becomes established. Until then, the base is in MFT. This imbalance between the two formats will likely remain that way for an extended period.

    Image: The new Panasonic S1R, FF mirrorless camera (from Panasonic promotional material from panason...

    The new Panasonic S1R, FF mirrorless camera (from Panasonic promotional material from panasonic.ca website)

    Reality Check #2

    Users have been slow to adopt the new Panasonic format. While the new Panasonic cameras have some fantastic build qualities and features, it’s sensor design does not incorporate phase-detect autofocus. Instead, Panasonic designers chose to continue to use only contrast-detect and depth from defocusing DFD, the same system previously used on all their MFT cameras.

    Consequently, the Panasonic autofocus system (both MFT and FF), while fast and great for still photography, has not been seen as good at continuous autofocusing (important for sports, wildlife and video) when compared to some of its competitors. This means that the move by Panasonic designers to retain this type of autofocus system into their new format FF cameras may cause some purchasers to think twice about a jump to their system.

    It remains to be seen if this will eventually be a successful format for Panasonic.

    Reality Check #3

    Since the announcement of the Panasonic S-series, Panasonic has also released two new cameras and three new lenses for MFT. Clearly, the move to full-frame mirrorless cameras by Panasonic is part of a larger strategy. It is not the only product line that Panasonic is focusing on.

    Image: The new G95 MFT camera body from Panasonic, released after the announcement of the S-series f...

    The new G95 MFT camera body from Panasonic, released after the announcement of the S-series from Panasonic (from panasonic.ca website)

     

    Assumption: Panasonic and Olympus are the only micro-four-thirds camera manufacturers

    The assumption goes something like this…

    Panasonic and Olympus are the two major manufacturers behind the MFT Consortium. If Panasonic stops producing or developing MFT equipment, there would only be one major manufacturer left supporting the format.

    Reality check #1

    MFT as a format was originally developed by a consortium of manufacturers that sought to provide an alternative product to what was being produced by the bigger manufacturers (Canon and Nikon at the time).

    This is an open-source approach to manufacturing, one that is contrary to how most other manufacturers have approached sensor and lens mount formats. Most camera manufacturers have generally created proprietary lens mounts so that their cameras only accept their lenses.

    Image: The Laowa 17mm lens is specifically designed for micro-four-thirds cameras

    The Laowa 17mm lens is specifically designed for micro-four-thirds cameras

    Reality check #2

    When Panasonic and Olympus formed the basis of the original MFT consortium, it was to create an interchangeable open-source standard so that lenses on one brand could be used on the other, effectively doubling their manufacturing efficiency.

    This was revolutionary at the time and still remains a successful strategy, allowing manufacturers to create lenses that fit on more than one brand of camera.

    Reality check #3

    While it is difficult to find out the stats on how many people are actively using any particular format of camera, there is an extensive base of MFT cameras. In Japan, Olympus has remained in the top 5 for sales of ILC systems for many years.

    For video, the GH5 is still seen as an incredibly capable camera and a go-to camera for videography with fewer limitations than some of the newer larger-format cameras.

    Over the last 10 years, companies developed a large base of MFT cameras and lenses (over 100 including manual lenses).

    Reality check #4

    Beyond the two founding companies (Panasonic and Olympus), there are a lot of other manufacturers committed to the MFT system. These include:

    • Cosina Voigtlander
    • Carl Zeiss
    • Jos Schneider Optische Werke GmbH
    • Komamura Corporation
    • Sigma Corporation
    • Tamron
    • Astrodesign
    • Yasuhara
    • Blackmagic
    • SVS Vistek GmbH
    • Venus Optics
    • Kodak (through JK Imaging)
    • DJI
    • Sharp
    • JVC
    • Z cam
    • Xiaomi (the YI)

    They may not have the same type of brand name recognition, but this list represents many companies.

    Assumption: Formats disappear fast, so micro-four-thirds will disappear fast

    As companies change, so do consumers. If no-one produces new micro-four-thirds cameras, then the format would no longer appeal and disappear. We live in a disposable age, so if manufacturers stop producing new cameras and lenses, no one will continue to use the old technology.

    Reality check #1

    Both Olympus and Panasonic have recently released new MFT bodies and lenses.  So for now, the format is still very much alive.

    Image: The new Olympus EM5 Mark III was recently announced (from Olympus promotional material at get...

    The new Olympus EM5 Mark III was recently announced (from Olympus promotional material at getolympus.ca)

    Reality check #2

    While formats do die out, they can often take a very long time to die out.

    Unlike some types of technology, for example, cellphones or some computers, cameras tend to have a relatively long shelf life. They are often still sold as-new long after they have been discontinued.

    Beyond that, camera systems, particularly interchangeable lens camera (ILC) systems, have installed bases and lots of lenses/accessories to support these bodies and formats. So, the end of the base format doesn’t mean there isn’t a demand for the accessories to support the bodies.

    Even after the main camera body stops production, third party manufacturers will often still produce lenses for them

    Reality check #3

    Although formats for any technology can disappear and change, there are still markets for those formats long after announcing a discontinuance.

    Some formats achieve an almost Zombie state (look dead for all intents and purposes but still moving) because, while they have not been discontinued, no new products are released for the old technology by the base manufacturer.

    Image: The Sony A99 rii is a formidable camera but likely the last A-mount camera (from Sony promoti...

    The Sony A99 rii is a formidable camera but likely the last A-mount camera (from Sony promotional material at Sony.ca)

    An example of a Zombie format is the Sony A-mount system. This system is still available for sale as new, but the last camera released was the a99ii in February of 2017. It is still an extremely capable camera, but almost 3 years later, it is getting a little long in the tooth.

    Sony produced around 46 lenses for the A-mount (formerly a Minolta mount), but the last Sony released A-mount lens was in April of 2015.

    Prior to the a99ii, the last camera body announced was the a68SLT a year-and-a-half earlier.

    Assumption: Full frame mirrorless cameras are the only type of cameras that anyone wants

    Because there has been a lot of interest in FF mirrorless cameras, these are the only cameras that anyone is interested in.  No one would be interested in any other type of format.

    Reality check #1

    There are many camera types, sensors, and styles out there that will be with us for a while. There is currently a rush into the mirrorless FF market. This is really just a segment of the market and not a true representation of the entire photography market.

    Other than point-and-shoot cameras, which are difficult to find anymore, other formats fill other niches. There has been a range of sensors and camera bodies for some time, with no real indication that will change soon.

    Image: You can use a number of MFT cameras in harsh environments due to their weather sealing.

    You can use a number of MFT cameras in harsh environments due to their weather sealing.

    Reality check #2

    Beyond high-end cameras, most manufacturers produce a range of cameras from consumer-grade to professional-grade with a bunch in the middle.

    This is not just capabilities, but price-point too. Consumer-grade choices are mostly based upon price-point, whereas the professional-grade cameras are all about high-end features.

    To be successful, any brand needs to have a range of choices. All MFT camera manufacturers provide products that cover the entire spectrum. In contrast, mirrorless offerings from some manufacturers, notably Canon and Nikon, still have limitations as far as product range and lens selection.

    FF mirrorless cameras provide pretty high-end features for many consumers and tend to be more camera than the average consumer is looking for.

    Image: Everyone likes a cat portrait.  This MFT image was taken using studio lighting

    Everyone likes a cat portrait.  This MFT image was taken using studio lighting

    Assumption: The Camera market is growing because of mirrorless

    The surge in FF mirrorless cameras gives the appearance that the camera market is growing. The marketing would suggest that there are new and great things coming.

    Reality check #1

    The market for new cameras has contracted significantly of late and has for some time. Camera sales spiked around 2010 with massive numbers that were truly unprecedented – partially caused by the growth in social media, and relatively poor image quality of cell phones at that time.

    As well, digital imaging was really just starting to take off. Since then, smartphone cameras have really improved (and pretty much wiped out point-and-shoot cameras), and camera sales have actually been shrinking significantly. Prior to the mid-1990s, camera sales never exceeded 30 million units, and in 2010, there were over 121 million cameras sold. Last year the total number was under 20 million units.

    These stats do not include smartphones and point-and-shoot cameras (a format of camera that has mostly disappeared).

    Image: You can achieve shallow depth of field with very fast lenses.

    You can achieve shallow depth of field with very fast lenses.

    Reality check #2

    Mirrorless cameras are also declining in sales but not at the same rate as other types of cameras with interchangeable lenses. Also, as there are lots of newer mirrorless options, their growth in this market will slow.

    Assumption: People will move away from micro-four-thirds cameras because of the small sensor

    Micro-four-thirds cameras are a format that has been around since 2007. More recently, because it has a smaller sensor, many have criticized the format as inferior simply because of the size.

    Image: You can still achieve a shallow depth of field with micro-four-thirds cameras – it is just ha...

    You can still achieve a shallow depth of field with micro-four-thirds cameras – it is just harder to do.

    Reality check #1

    The two main weaknesses of micro-four-thirds cameras are low light performance and depth of field. Their strengths, however, are size, lens selection, build quality, and features.

    Although micro-four-thirds cameras do not perform as well under lower light conditions as some FF cameras, it doesn’t mean you can’t use them for this purpose.

    There are lots of excellent examples of low light and night time photography taken with micro-four-thirds cameras, and shallow depth of field is only useful for a specific type of portrait image that is not for everyone.

    You can spend a lot of money chasing a shallow depth of field.

    Image: MFT can be used for portraits

    MFT can be used for portraits

    Reality check #2

    There have always been gear snobs in photography. Most people think their format is better than the other guy’s just as a way to justify their own purchases. We all do it to some extent, looking for reinforcement for the decisions we make.

    This doesn’t necessarily mean that the other systems are inferior; they just might be different.

    Reality check #3

    Realistically, further improvements are not going to be in sensor development (except maybe global shutters). Instead, it will be in things like the incorporation of computational photography into camera bodies like those used in on smartphones and improved connectivity to social media and the internet.

    Assumption: The Costs are the same, so why choose micro-four-thirds?

    Micro-four-thirds cameras are expensive so with the cost the same, why not just shoot FF?

    Reality check #1

    Micro-four-thirds camera systems do not have the same cost base as a FF system and cost significantly less. It is difficult to compare different format/brand systems. However, earlier this year, an interesting attempt was made.

    Terrance Lam of British Columbia, Canada, put together pricing for comparable pro systems to see how each system compared to have a complete set. You can look at the summary of his results here.

    The bottom line is that you can get the equivalent pro line of cameras and lenses but that the least expensive systems were from Pentax (FF), Fujifilm (APS-C), and Panasonic/Olympus (MFT).

    The Fujifilm and MFT cameras are crop sensors. These systems were roughly two-thirds the cost of similar systems from the other manufacturers. They won’t all perform exactly the same, but from a cost comparison, these less expensive systems deliver similar pro-grade equipment at a lower cost.

    Image: Fall leaf

    Fall leaf

    Reality check #2

    Many MFT users are actually looking for smaller cameras. The smaller sensor means smaller lenses and better portability.

    Some people think that mirrorless means small, but that is only for the bodies. Not all mirrorless cameras are small. You can’t cheat the optics, and a FF lens is large regardless of whether it is on a DSLR or a mirrorless body.

    Using MFT also means that that you can get longer lenses that are significantly smaller and less expensive (less glass).

    Conclusion

    Does this mean that micro-four-thirds cameras are dead?  Maybe, but certainly not for a long while.  MFT is a long-established format with lots of manufacturer options, lenses and established users.

    Will it be the next great thing? Probably not. But it does serve a particular niche that is not well-served by some of the other manufacturers.  Specifically, a smaller form factor ILC that is better for travel or harsh environments.

    Until there are other options, there will still be a market for this type of product.

    Image: You can use Micro-four-thirds cameras for all of the same purposes as FF cameras.

    You can use Micro-four-thirds cameras for all of the same purposes as FF cameras.

    More importantly, if you look beyond the rumors and the hype, the underlying circumstances are a little more complex than the superficial answer that micro-four-thirds cameras are dead.

    I do not think micro-four-thirds cameras will be dead for some time. Facts still matter in this post-truth era.

    What are your thoughts? Do you think there is still a place for micro-four-thirds cameras, or do you think the format is dead? Share with us in the comments!

    Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post’s poll.

    The post Are Micro-Four-Thirds Cameras Dead, or Do They Still Have Their Place? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mark C Hughes.


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