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Canon Explorers of Light – Q&A with Photographer Bruce Dorn

06 Mar

The post Canon Explorers of Light – Q&A with Photographer Bruce Dorn appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Featured Image

In this Canon Explorers of Light Q&A series, we interview several professional photographers who are a part of Canon’s Explorers of Light program.

The Explorers of Light Program, running since 1995, boasts some incredibly talented photographers. These photographers have spent years honing their craft, and influence and educate other photographers of all levels – something, we at dPS, can respect and relate to.

In this piece, we interview fashion, editorial and all-round photographer, Bruce Dorn.

Photographer Bruce Dorn

Bruce Dorn has been a professional photographer/cinematographer for 45 years and a member of the Directors Guild of America for 35 years.

Bruce is a Canon Explorer Light, an ARRI Ambassador, a SanDisk Extreme Pro, Western Digital Creative Master, Westcott Top Pro, Light & Motion Ambassador, Tiffen Steadicam Pro, Corel Painter Master, and a Member of the Adobe Dream Team. Bruce seems nice but Chuck Norris trembles at the mere sound of his name.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Portrait of Bruce Dorn with an eagle sitting on his canon lenses.

How did you get into photography?

In July of 1969, just after I turned 18, my brother-in-law loaned me a 35mm Pentax Spotmatic with a 50mm Takumar lens. I had just seen “Easy Rider” and was inspired to take my own road trip through the American Southwest.

I shot a ton of Kodachrome, had a crazy good time, and returned home to pursue a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in Visual Communications with a minor in photography.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Fashion Image

While in my last year in college, I entered and won a creativity competition staged by Conde Nast, the publishers of Vogue Magazine and several other fashion titles.

After graduation, I joined Mademoiselle Magazine as a guest editor, and I began art directing and shooting fashion spreads in NYC, Reykjavik, Paris, and Rome.

Within weeks of receiving my diploma, I signed the lease on a 4,000 sq ft penthouse loft on 5th Avenue in Manhattan and got to work. I’ve stayed busy ever since. A bit of a dream career, really.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Photographs of Woman beside an aircraft in afternoon light

What was your first camera setup?

The first camera setup I bought was an inexpensive 35mm Mamiya-Sekor DTL 500 with a 50mm lens. The second piece of kit I acquired was a 500W, 3200K incandescent floodlight. The camera is long lost in the mists of time, but I still have that light. It’s a novelty keepsake at this point, but it serves as a reminder that creative lighting has always defined my shooting style – and kept me gainfully employed.

What camera gear do you use now and why?

I’ve shot everything from 35mm to 8”x10” film cameras for stills and 16mm to 70mm VistaVision cinema cameras, but now I’m 100% digital.

Canon is my platform of choice for both stills and cine, and I always use the latest versions. Currently, I’m really high on the Canon EOS 1Dx MKIII and excited about the upcoming mirrorless EOS R5.

Canon cameras always deliver amazing color, and Canon Professional Services are unequaled. And the lenses? I have a very large collection, from extreme wide-angle to super-telephoto.

The photography gear that Bruce Dorn has in the back of his car. Who wouldn't want that? — Yes, who wouldn’t love this to be the back of their car?

People frequently ask me how much such a huge assortment of gear costs, and I always point out that it isn’t about how much gear costs me – it’s about how much it earns for me.

Just like a championship-winning race car mechanic, full-service professional photographers must eventually possess a very large toolbox. It pays for itself.

What area of photography do you specialize in, and why did you move into that field?

I get bored very easily, so over the years, I’ve worked to become a specialist in a lot of different categories.

I shoot editorial, fashion, beauty, automotive, nature, adventure, travel, extreme sports, underwater, environmental portraiture, aerial, and advertising – in both stills and cinema.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – An example of his fashion photography

Bruce Dorn's fashion shoot with models in the desert

Are you working on any exciting projects you’d like to share?

Always! Unfortunately, the bulk of my commercial work is under a non-disclosure agreement, so I can’t be specific. Follow my Instagram feed, and you’ll see lots of cool stuff posted there – once I’m out from under the NDAs and able to freely share. My Instagram handle is: @dorn.bruce

Between professional gigs, I try to do as much mentoring as I can. I’m currently working with a fourteen-year-old Hopi Indian girl who simply loves landscape photography. We get together for shooting adventures around Arizona whenever our schedules allow!

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Young woman on a motorcycle

If you could share any photography tips with our readers, what would they be?

Great photography is all about where you stand, both literally and philosophically. Work on discovering and polishing your own unique point-of-view.

With so much information instantly available online, it’s super-easy to mimic the work of others but don’t – that’s ultimately a dead-end journey. Focus, instead, on shooting a lot, and eventually, your own unique path will be revealed. Own it.

Oh, and light that faint little path…learning to illuminate your world with great lighting is the smartest thing you will ever do. Invest in quality lighting instruments and learn how to use them. I suggest looking at color-correct and dimmable LED units for the greatest versatility. Shine bright!

Bruce Dorn photography – a shot of the studio set up for his marionette shoot.

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Marionette shoot

Bruce Dorn Biography

Bruce Dorn has been a professional photographer/cinematographer for 45 years and a member of the Directors Guild of America for 35 years.

See more of photographer, Bruce Dorn’s work here:

Instagram: @dorn.bruce
Facebook: bruce.dorn
Website: www.brucedorn.com

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Portraits

Bruce Dorn photograph of 3 Zebras in Black and White

Canon Explorers of Light Series Q&A with photographer Bruce Dorn – Image of a woman on the edge of a red plane wing

Bruce Dorn Photography, shows a woman against a purple background with red lights

Bruce Dorn photography, shows cars driving across a sandy desert from a high perspective.

The post Canon Explorers of Light – Q&A with Photographer Bruce Dorn appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

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Focusing Tips for Beginners – Ways to Achieve Spot-on Focus in Photography

06 Mar

The post Focusing Tips for Beginners – Ways to Achieve Spot-on Focus in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Focus is vital. Capturing your subject in crisp, sharp focus requires skill and practice. You need to understand the various auto-focus controls on your camera. Here are some focusing tips for beginners to help you get sharp photos more consistently.

Focusing Tips for Beginners, Thai models

There’s no fixing an out-of-focus photo

Many digital photographers like to use the various sharpening options available in software. Don’t be tempted. I have never known an out-of-focus photo to be well improved with post-production manipulations.

Sharpening in post can, however, help images that are a little soft. This is often due to lens quality rather than poor focusing. Either your photos are in focus or they are not. Focusing tips for beginners are important to understand. There is no fixing an out of focus photo with your computer.

Focusing Tips for Beginners Asian Photographer

Focus on your subject

Pick your point and focus on it. Having the wrong part of your composition in focus will not result in a good photograph. You must decide what’s in your frame that’s most important and focus on it.

Focusing tips for beginners often contain information about operating your camera better. I will include these tips here also. But first, it’s important to know what you want to focus on. This is something I prefer not to let my camera choose for me.

As you are composing your photo, be mindful of your main subject. Consider it’s depth. Is most of your subject the same distance from your camera? Or is some of it closer to you than other parts?

Photographing a bicycle that’s side on to you, most of it is about the same distance from your camera. Taking a photo of the bike as it faces the camera will mean you need to choose whereabouts on it to focus. If you focus on the back wheel, the front wheel may be out of focus.

One rule of thumb I use most of the time is, if your subject has eyes, focus on them. If one eye is closer to your camera than the other, focus on the closest one. Subjects with eyes that are out of focus rarely look good in photos.

Multi or single point auto-focus?

Digital cameras usually have various setting options for choosing your focus point. You can set your camera to only focus on a single point. Or you can set it to choose from multiple points. More advanced cameras allow you to set the area and number of focus points.

I prefer to have my camera set to single point auto-focus. This allows me to be precise and in control of what I focus on. Having your camera set to multi-point auto-focus means your camera chooses what part of your composition to focus on.

Some camera models allow you to move the single focus point to position it where you want in the frame. In other cameras, the single point for auto-focusing is central in the frame and you cannot move it. To use the single point on these cameras, you must shift your camera to focus where you want and then re-compose. I would find this frustrating. It will not always provide correct focus when you are using a very wide aperture setting.

Iron Bridge at night in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Using a camera where you can precisely control the single point the camera will auto-focus on, gives you control. You can move the point to the portion of the frame where you want to focus easily. This may take some practice to become quick at it, but it’s worthwhile when you want to be in control.

About the only time I use multi-point auto-focusing, is when I am tracking a moving subject that is constant. The camera will often be able to lock on and keep with a subject unless the subject is moving erratically. Accuracy when using this mode can also depend on how fast your subject is moving. Your subject will be easier to track when it’s slow-moving.

Focusing Tips for Beginners Asian photogrpaher and her camera

Continuous or single-servo auto-focus?

Choosing continuous or single-servo auto-focus is another important decision. When you choose continuous focus, your camera will always be refocusing while you have the focus button activated. With single-servo auto-focus, pressing the focus control, it will focus once and remain set on that point – even when your subject or camera moves.

Continuous-servo focusing is most useful when you have a moving subject, or you are moving with your camera. If I am using continuous-servo focus, I am often also using a multi-point setting. However, most of the time, I use single-servo focusing.

Focusing Tips for Beginners Tricycle taxis in Chiang Mai

Back button focus

By default, cameras are configured to use the shutter release button to focus. You will half depress the shutter button to focus. Some cameras allow you to turn off focusing on the shutter button and assign the focus function to another button.

Many photographers like to change the focus function to be controlled by one of the buttons on the back of the camera. Hence the name, back button focus.

Doing this allows you to focus independently from taking a photo. Assigning a button other than the shutter release to control focus, gives you more flexibility. You can focus and take photos independently when different buttons control these functions.

Back button focus can take a little getting used to, but I have found it well worthwhile because it gives me more control of my focus.

There are many situations where you might want to take a photo without refocusing, and back-button focusing allows you to do this.

Using manual focus

Another of the focusing tips for beginners is manual focusing. Some may think that manual focusing is too slow or difficult, but it’s not if you practice it.

You can become proficient in a short space of time if you commit to learning. Once you know how you will be surprised at how often manual focus skills come in handy.

Auto-focus is a wonderful technology, but it’s not always perfect. When you find your lens searching for a focus point and struggling to find one, it pays to switch over to manual if you know what you are doing.

Manually controlling your focus in low light can often be faster and more precise than your camera’s auto-focus. Learning to focus manually is also a lot cheaper than upgrading to a higher quality camera that has better auto-focus.

Portrait of a Karen man in northern Thailand

Focus technique

I hope you have found these focusing tips for beginners useful. Remember, don’t leave it all to your camera. Getting well-focused images is not all about managing your camera’s auto-focus system. You need to work on your focus techniques and know what to do when you are photographing different subjects. This is particularly important when your subject is moving.

Sometimes you’ll want to track focus. At other times you’ll want to pre-focus and wait for your subject to enter your frame. When doing macro photography, it can be useful to set your focus and then move your camera or subject forwards or back a little to fine-tune.

Practice, as always, will make you sharper, and your images too.

Do you have any other focusing tips for beginners that you’d like to share? If so, please do so in the comments.

The post Focusing Tips for Beginners – Ways to Achieve Spot-on Focus in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

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How to Use Pattern and Repetition in Photography Effectively

06 Mar

The post How to Use Pattern and Repetition in Photography Effectively appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

How to use pattern and repetition in photography feature image

One of the many ways we can make images more creative is to utilize pattern and repetition in photography. To beginners in photography, this may sound a little daunting, but trust me, it’s not.

All it takes is to train your eye to look for them in everyday objects and situations. They are everywhere around us if we only take the time to slow down, stop, and look a little closer.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – Black and white image of dew drops on string — Nikkor 105mm f/8 SS 1/250 ISO 400

But first, let’s talk about what pattern and repetition contribute to our images other than an injection of creativity. Even the slightest hint of pattern and repetition in photography adds a sense of dynamics to the image. You can see many images of detailed pattern and repetition in photography that I have written within the context of developing an eye for detail, here.

What do pattern and repetition contribute to an image?

Photo by Lily Sawyer – A picture of a field taken through a wire fence. — f/8 SS 1/250 ISO 200

1. Heightened interest

DPS photo by Lily Sawyer – Sun Rays shing through dark clouds over the water — f/8 SS 1/200 ISO 800

Pattern and repetition no doubt raise the level of interest in photographs with the space they occupy in the frame and the dynamic and rhythm they bring into that space. With pattern and repetition, what would have been a flat image with little going on, becomes a space of visual activity.

In the photo above, the cloud pattern is rather abstract, dense, and fills the frame. But pair this with the repetitive pattern of the sun’s rays, and your eye immediately stops and is invited to linger and look closely.

2. Hold attention

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – checkered pattern and staircase — Left: f/8 SS 1/200 ISO 400 Right: f/5.6 SS 1/160 ISO 200

Pattern and repetition in photography hold the viewer’s attention by using strong repetitive elements. The patterns can keep the eye anchored or move it around an image using line.

The centered composition of the image above-left anchors the eye straight away whilst also making it look further towards the horizon.

The checkered black and white pattern brings the eye back to this foreground space to explore more.

3. Direct gaze

photography by Lily Sawyer — Left: f/11 SS 1/250 ISO 100 Right: f/8 SS 1/125 ISO 100

Once the image holds that attention, you want the attention to stay, linger for a while and live the space. This is precisely what pattern and repetition do. Effective use of both, invite the eye to move around the frame and scrutinize the parts that made the image great. Or in the very least, takes the viewer on a visual journey.

In the photo above, the angle I shot this photo from provides a leading line. It makes the eye stop at the strong vertical block on the right and look towards the left.

Where to find pattern and repetition

We live in a world saturated with them! From natural objects and phenomena to man-made structures, we are surrounded by pattern and repetition.

1. Nature

Photography by Lily Sawyer – water ripples — f/4 SS 1/80 ISO 2000

Pattern and repetition are around in great abundance. Take nature, for instance, it is brimming with activity at all times. When we care to stop and look, we see innumerable patterns and countless repetitions.

This could be obvious pattern and repetition, for example, the wake patterns created by waves from a sailboat, various types of cloud formations, raindrops on a washing line, mussels on the beach, birds flying in formation, sand dunes, surfing waves, or trees in a forest. It could be symmetrical and asymmetrical designs in nature like shells and fossils, florals, veins on leaves, snowflakes… the list is endless.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – Dewdrops on a string and seashells on a beach — Left: Nikkor 105mm f/8 SS 1/250 ISO 400 Right: f/11 SS 1/800 ISO 100

To add to that list, there are subtle forms of pattern and repetition in nature too – like grass growing in a field, the night sky, close-up corals, converging gentle ripples, the effect of the wind, smoke, and haze just to name a few.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – grass tussels with beach in the background — f/4 SS 1/500 ISO 100

2. Human-Made

Similar to a wake of waves from a boat, you can see contrails or vapour trails from aeroplanes. They may look like clouds but they are actually condensation trails resulting from the changes in air pressure in the sky and, therefore, can be arguably nature and human-made.

More easily recognizable patterns and repetition made by people include architectural forms and structures, sculptures and installations, floors and wall tiles, mosaics, shadows, light beams and lasers, and many other objects.

DPS Photography by Lily Sawyer – interior building archway — f/5.6 SS 1/60 ISO 1000

3. Create it yourself

The search for pattern and repetition in photography doesn’t have to stop there! As a matter of fact, we can create it ourselves. This shot below has been created using a very slow shutter speed while popping the flash several times as the subjects moved.

Read this article on how I achieved this double exposure in camera.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – multi-exposure of people in black and white — Experiment between f/8 – f/16, ISO 100 – 400, Shutter 2 seconds to bulb

I created the photo below using an iPhone lit up in the dark and shot it with a very slow shutter speed. This is also called dragging the shutter but without the use of flash and is a way of painting with light too.

DPS Photography by Lily Sawyer – light painting with an iphone — Shutter set on bulb for about 10 seconds or so, f/11, ISO 400

Now that we have some ideas on where to look for pattern and repetition, let’s look at how to use them effectively to strengthen our images.

How to use pattern and repetition in photography to add strength

1. Composition

The key to any image is its composition. Perhaps it’s using the rule of thirds or a centered composition. It may be symmetrical or asymmetrical. There are many factors in composition and you can read more about mastering it here.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – Patterned windows — Left: f/2.8 SS 1/160 ISO 400 Right: f/5.6 SS 1/200 ISO 100

2. Use color and contrast

By placing the colors in specific areas of the frame, you can strengthen your image immensely. On the image below-left, by positioning the strongest color red and it’s shadowed contrast and light contrast off-center to the left (and again off center diagonally downwards), the image takes on a dynamic look.

Compare this to the image below-right, which although has 3 strong colors of the same tonal values, lacks the light and shadow contrast. The red image has a much stronger impact.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – Light shining through large windows creating a pattern — Left: f/5.6 SS 1/160 ISO 400 Right: f/5.6 SS 1/160 ISO 800

3. Use forms and shapes

To create pattern and repetition in photography, use dynamic forms and shapes like spirals, curves, triangles, cubes, and other angular shapes, are key to emphasizing the dynamics in a space and heightening its interest level.

In the image below-left, although there are many things going on in terms of repetitive lines, there are not as many acute angles of these lines and shapes compared to the image on the right. The image on the left is a three-dimensional space and the image on the right is a flat floor, yet it is much more dynamic.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – patterned floor and interior — Left: f/4 SS 1/200 ISO 400 Right: f/4 SS 1/125 ISO 2000

4. Use leading lines

Concentric lines, spirals, zigzags, waves, and diagonals are easy to use lines that lead the eye to various places in the frame. In the image below, which has no other subject but the lines themselves, there is still a sense of movement and interest despite the lack of additional colors and strong contrast. You can read more on leading lines here.

DPS photography by Lily Sawyer – circles repeated in wood — f/4 SS 1/125 ISO 2000

5. Use perspective

Photographing from an angle as opposed to a straight-ahead, same-level shot also accentuates pattern and repetition. The images below are high up and full of lines. The addition of the love angle adds more depth to the image. Changing your perspective makes you see things from a new angle and in a new light.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – patterned interior roofs — Left: f/5.6 SS 1/125 ISO 1200 Right: f/4 SS 1/100 ISO 3200

Conclusion

In this article, we have seen how using pattern and repetition in photography is an easy way to improve our images. All it takes is to look more carefully at the world around us and incorporate these elements into our images using some basic photography principles.

DPS How to use pattern and repetition in photography by Lily Sawyer – dewdrops on lines in balck and white — Nikkor 105mm f/8 SS250 ISO 400

What’s more exciting, is that you can also create your own images using pattern and repetition!

Now it’s time to get those creative juices flowing, and go and make your own!

DPS Photography by Lily Sawyer – multi exposure of people against a patterned backdrop — Experiment between f/8 – f/16, ISO 100 – 400, Shutter 2 seconds to bulb

Do you have any other tips for using pattern and repetition in photography?

Also, we’d love to see your images of pattern and repetition, so please share them with us in the comments section.

The post How to Use Pattern and Repetition in Photography Effectively appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

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5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020

06 Mar

The post 5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 Feature Graphic

In recent years, mirrorless cameras have come to dominate much of the photography market. So much so that, if you’re a DSLR shooter, you may feel like you’re lagging behind. You may feel like you’re using old, antiquated equipment. You may start saving up for that brand-new mirrorless kit. But should you still use a DSLR in 2020?

Here’s the thing:

While mirrorless cameras may be all the rage these days, there’s a lot to be said for DSLRs.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 – Nikon D6

And while there are a lot of benefits to going mirrorless, for some photographers, mirrorless bodies and lenses would be an unnecessary step sideways.

Or, even worse, a step backward.

That’s what this article is all about. I’m going to give you five reasons why you might want to still use a DSLR in 2020.

And you’ll come away knowing whether a DSLR still makes sense for your shooting needs, even in this increasingly mirrorless age.

1. DSLRs are much easier to work with in low light

If you’ve spent some time reading about DSLRs versus mirrorless cameras, then you’ll be familiar with the optical viewfinder and electronic viewfinder comparisons.

On the one hand, optical viewfinders are much clearer than electronic viewfinders, and they feel more real.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 — This Nikon DSLR features an optical viewfinder, which gives you a crisp and lifelike view through the lens.

On the other hand, electronic viewfinders give you a live preview of your image before you even take it, one that allows you to assess exposure from the moment you put the camera up to your eye. You also get other cool benefits, such as focus peaking (where you can see in-focus areas through the viewfinder), as well as the ability to “see” in black and white.

But there’s another key optical viewfinder benefit:

They look way better in low light.

When you’re shooting in darker situations, looking through an optical viewfinder is very similar to looking with your naked eye.

But looking through an electronic viewfinder is like looking through an old, poor-quality display. There’s noise everywhere, and this makes it tough to tell whether you’ve nailed focus and exposure.

Of course, it’s possible to look past these flaws, and you can still shoot mirrorless in low light. But it’s frustrating to look through a viewfinder and see a poor-quality image, so if you’re a frequent low-light shooter, you might want to consider sticking with a DSLR instead.

Now, EVFs are improving all the time, and there may reach a point in the future where the quality in low light comes close to that of OVFs. But right now, OVFs are dominating EVFs in the low-light arena.

2. You can shoot all day with a DSLR on a single battery

Another reason to still use a DSLR in 2020 is that DSLRs have much longer-lasting batteries compared to mirrorless cameras.

And if you’re the type of photographer who likes to shoot all day without stopping, or someone who goes into areas without access to electricity for days on end, you’re going to struggle with a mirrorless body.

Most mirrorless bodies are rated at around 250-400 shots, though you can get a substantial amount of additional life out of them if you make an effort to conserve battery. Even so, mirrorless battery life pales in comparison to DSLRs, which frequently feature capabilities from around 800 shots to 1500 shots and beyond.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 – Nikon D850 — This Nikon D850 has a battery life of 1840 high-resolution shots, which is much more than that of mirrorless competitors.

When I got my first mirrorless camera, I thought I was ready to handle the limited battery life. In a sense, I was: I had three original batteries, plus two chargers.

But even if you have the batteries to last a day or two, it’s frustrating to have to remember to charge them after every shoot. It’s also frustrating to change batteries during shoots, especially when working in the freezing cold or in bad weather.

So if battery life is a big deal to you, then you may want to stick with your DSLR.

3. DSLRs feel much better in your hand

I’ve used a number of mirrorless cameras, and I’ve also used a number of DSLRs.

And the DSLRs are far, far better when it comes to ergonomics.

You see, mirrorless cameras are much more compact than DSLRs on average. But in order to achieve the smaller form-factor, manufacturers have flattened body grips.

Sure, there are some mirrorless cameras that retain a DSLR-like feel, but many of the mid-level options from Sony and Fujifilm, not to mention the entry-level, no-viewfinder cameras from most manufacturers, have very limited grips.

And this makes them very tough to use for street photographers (who often shoot one-handed), as well as casual walkaround photographers. Plus, anyone who holds a camera for hours on end wants it to feel comfortable, not just usable.

In a lot of cases, mirrorless bodies just…aren’t.

Check out this DSLR, which shows the extent to which a deep body grip defines its shape:

So before you grab a new mirrorless body, make sure to head into your local camera shop and actually try it out. Hold it in your hand.

And ask yourself:

How would I feel after hours in the field?

If the answer is something along the lines of “Not good,” then you may want to still use your DSLR in 2020.

4. DSLRs allow you to comfortably view the scene with both eyes open

I’ve already talked about the difference between electronic viewfinders and optical viewfinders.

But there’s a practical consequence that comes with using an electronic viewfinder that I haven’t mentioned:

It’s tough to shoot with both eyes open.

Now, if you’re a landscape or portrait photographer, you may think this is silly. Why would you ever need to use both eyes while shooting?

But if you’re an action photographer, someone who shoots sports or even street photos, then you may like to shoot with both eyes open. This allows you to anticipate movement. It allows you to see what’s going to move into the frame before it happens.

And it can really take your images to the next level.

Unfortunately, it’s hard to use both eyes when shooting mirrorless. This is because there’s a feeling of disconnect between the electronic viewfinder and the optical viewfinder. Plus, even the best EVFs have some kind of lag; while this may be irrelevant if using one eye to shoot, it creates a level of disjointedness when working with both eyes.

This is one of the reasons why, by the way, plenty of sports photographers are still opting for a camera like the Nikon D5/6 or the Canon 1D X Mark II/III over mirrorless options like the Sony a9 II or the Olympus OM-D E-M1X. While the latter two cameras offer incredible specs, it’s just too difficult to use them with both eyes open.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 - Canon EOS 1D X Mark III — The Canon 1D X Mark III is a sought-after sports camera by professionals.

5. DSLRs offer a better lens selection

Here’s your final reason to still use a DSLR in 2020 over mirrorless:

The lens selection.

Now, there are plenty of great lenses for mirrorless systems. But the range just isn’t as expansive as the DSLR lens lineup that’s offered by Canon or Nikon.

Fortunately, there are adapters that allow you to use DSLR lenses on mirrorless bodies. But these can cost a substantial amount of money, and for some lineups, they’re just not ideal.

Some shooters won’t care about the limited lens offerings; if you’re a portrait photographer, for instance, you’ll probably be just fine with the lens lineup offered by any of the major mirrorless manufacturers. This is because portrait-type lenses are often developed first, as part of a “standard” prime and zoom series.

But if you photograph with more specialized equipment – a set of super-telephoto lenses, for instance, or a long macro lens – you’ll struggle to get the glass you need to really capture your images.

Note, also that switching from a Canon DSLR to a mirrorless system like Fujifilm, will cost a significant sum of money. You’ll need to buy a mirrorless camera, yes, but you’ll also need to replace your entire lens lineup. And while you can sell your DSLR lenses on the used market, they likely won’t get you close to the cash you need for a well-rounded Fuji system.

So make sure you keep this in mind before switching to mirrorless.

5 Reasons you should still use a DSLR in 2020: Conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the five key reasons you should still use a DSLR in 2020 over a mirrorless camera.

And you should have a sense of whether a DSLR makes sense for your needs.

5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 - Canon Rebel T7i

Now I’d like to know:

Do you shoot mirrorless or with a DSLR? And why? Share your reasons in the comments below!

The post 5 Reasons You Should Still Use a DSLR in 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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Why Your Photoshop Keeps Crashing and How to Fix it

05 Mar

Photoshop can do amazing things with images. It can also make you want to pull your hair out in frustration. Photoshop constantly crashing while you work is one such frustrating problem. Why does it crash? What can you do to fix it? Your computer may not have enough memory, or it may not have enough space to run Photoshop, causing Continue Reading

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How to Elevate Your Photography Portfolio With Video Collage Creation in SmartSHOW 3D

05 Mar

When it comes to photography software, the most common names that come up are Adobe Lightroom, which is often used to work with RAW images, and Adobe Photoshop, which is often used to perform retouching tasks like smoothing out skin, removing blemishes, and fixing exposure. While these programs are fantastic for the editing process, photographers tend to be left to Continue Reading

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Storytelling Newborn Photography Shoot Tips

05 Mar

Storytelling photography for newborn babies is all about capturing the real life memories of the newborn days for families in a beautiful way, and it’s quickly becoming the most popular style of photography for capturing the newborn stage of life. Not only does it bring out the personalities of everyone and provide specific memories of what life was like during Continue Reading

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Are Professional Photographers Expensive?

05 Mar

I don’t think there is a professional photographer out there that hasn’t heard a potential client utter the words, “you charge how much?” or “what exactly do I get for that” or even “But all you do is push a button!” Yes, it’s true, any photographer worth their weight will seem expensive at first glance. Even I am guilty of Continue Reading

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A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time

05 Mar

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

In this photographer’s guide to buying a drone, I’ll share with you some invaluable tips for buying a drone for the first time.

Seven years ago, my employer wanted a photo of a local lighthouse from an elevated viewpoint. It sounds ridiculous now, but very early on a winter’s morning, I was loaded into a cherry picker with two cameras and hoisted 15 meters in the air to take photos. I’m a little bit scared of heights, so I really had to concentrate on getting the images and not looking down!

With the introduction in the last few years of many relatively low-cost good quality drones (also known as UAVs – unmanned aerial vehicles), that whole scenario seems laughable.

So why should you think about buying a drone if you haven’t already?

Here are some of the key considerations.

Image: By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Y...

By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Yamba. Taken with the DJI Mavic.

A photographer’s guide to buying a drone

Why buy a drone?

The main reason for buying a drone is the unique viewpoints that it will bring to your photography that you couldn’t achieve easily otherwise.

Sure, you can take elevated images from buildings, planes, helicopters – or even a cherry picker. However, those options are unlikely to be suitable or cost-efficient, depending on what you’d like to photograph. Having a drone in your kit opens up new possibilities and viewpoints like never before.

How else would you be able to take images from viewpoints like this? Boats at the seaside taken with the DJI Mavic Pro 2.

What kind of photographers would benefit from having a drone?

The short answer is – all kinds of photographers. I’ve seen or heard of aerial images from UAVs used in many industries.

Travel

Aerial images have been a stable of Instagram travel accounts for years now. Many Instagrammers take a compact drone with them on their travels to add to the range of shots they can take at a destination. They can use the images for both posting on social media or as deliverables for clients.

These images are often featured by large national and regional travel accounts to showcase destinations.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

Real estate photographers

Drones are widely used amongst real estate photographers and seem to be essential kits these days.

Aerial images are common on many listings here in Australia to show the boundaries and layout of a property and its location to nearby landmarks and amenities.

Fine art

This is a small but very well paid niche. Some photographers make thousands of dollars for breathtaking fine art aerial images taken with UAVs.

Stock photographers

There’s been an increasing number of aerial images and videos sold on stock photography sites recently. Using a drone is one way to add to the range of images you have for sale in your portfolio.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

A stock photography library I shoot for had a call out for images to illustrate bad parking. This is an image I sold them for the campaign.

Wedding and portrait photography

Aerial images are becoming increasingly popular for weddings, engagement shoots, and portrait sessions.

Images for your family archive

When I’m out and about taking photos for stock or travel, my family often accompanies me. I love taking aerial images of them; it certainly makes for a different type of shot in the family photo archive.

Tips before buying a drone

If you’re thinking about buying a drone, it pays to do your research first. Take a look at photos taken by drones on Instagram using hashtags such as #dronephotography, #dronestagram, and #droneoftheday.

Which make and model of UAV took these images? Looking at the photos will give you a good indication of the quality you can expect from each model.

Join some drone-related Facebook groups. Have a read through the discussions and ask questions. People will often be happy to share how they took a photo, what equipment they used, and what post-processing they did on the image.

My daughter taking her board out for a surf in northern New South Wales, Australia.

Try before you buy

Do you know a friend who has a drone? Ask if you can go along with them next time they fly it and learn the basics. You could also see if a local drone Facebook Group has meetups where you can learn the ropes. Maybe you’ll love it, but maybe you’ll hate it. Handy to know before you shell out for such a high cost.

Buy cheap, buy twice

I’ve heard many people buy a cheap toy drone to see if they’ll like it. The truth is, many of those cheaper drones are a complete nightmare to fly, and people are put off when it crashes. Typically, the more expensive a UAV, the easier it is to fly.

I’d recommend the “try before you buy” approach over this.

Which drone should I buy?

Ultimately, this is down to two different factors: the first is your budget, the second is what you want to do with your aerial images.

If you want to sell your images for stock, weddings, or fine art, go with the drone with the best image quality. However, if you want to travel with your drone, take family photos or only post to social media, perhaps you’d value a compact, lighter offering.

Pros and cons of some popular drone models

Below are some of the pros and cons of popular drones.

The Mavic Pro

The Mavic Pro is one of the best-selling drones of all time. It’s capable of taking photos in both horizontal and landscape orientations, which I found very handy when I owned it. The 12-megapixel camera has a fixed f/2.2 aperture, which compared to newer offerings, is a bit limiting. The good news is, you should be able to pick up one for a good price secondhand.

DJI Mavic Pro

Mavic Pro 2

I sold my Mavic Pro when they released the Mavic Pro 2. It has a significantly better 20-megapixel camera with a 1-inch sensor, which suited me better for taking larger images for stock libraries.

It also has an f/2.8-11 variable aperture, which gives you the potential to be more creative with your aerial images.

The one potential downside is that when facing the horizon, the gimbal doesn’t rotate the camera so you can capture vertical images like you can with the Mavic.

Read a full review of the Mavic Pro 2 here.

The Mavic 2 drone.

Mavic 2 Zoom

The Mavic 2 Zoom came out at the same time as the Mavic Pro. Its main advantage over the Pro 2 is the ability to zoom the camera. Combined with movement, you can use this to achieve the dolly zoom effect. The downside is that its camera is only 12-megapixel, and the aperture is f2.8-3.8.

Read a review of the Mavic 2 Zoom here.

DJI Mavic 2 Zoom

Mavic Mini

The Mavic Mini is a very small and light drone with impressive specifications. The Mavic Mini is the cheapest I’ve covered and would be ideal for many people wanting to take aerial images as they travel. It has a 12-megapixel camera. Unlike the others listed, it is only capable of taking images in JPG format for stills.

DJI Mavic Mini

Also, read a review of the DJI Spark here, and the Mavic Air here.

What else do I need to consider?

Is your device up to scratch? To fly a DJI drone, you’ll need the DJI GO app on your smartphone or on a tablet.

Is your device good enough to support the latest app? You’ll need to look into this before you get started.

Make sure your phone or tablet is powerful enough to run the drone app.

How will you edit your image?

If you’re a dPS regular reader, no doubt you’ll know all about the various ways you can post-process your images. I use Adobe Lightroom and occasionally Adobe Photoshop to edit my JPG and DNG drone images.

Insurance

UAVs are an expensive investment. Make sure that your camera insurance or home contents insurance adequately covers your new kit.

DJI have their own insurance product – DJI care. Whichever option you go for, make sure you understand the limits of the policies, so you don’t get caught out.

Flying legally

This is very important. You don’t want to find yourself on the wrong side of the law, especially if you take your drone overseas.

It’s good to learn all the rules when you’re considering buying one or while you’re waiting for it to arrive.

Rules differ from country to country, region to region, so always make sure you know the correct laws to fly at your destination.

For example, in Australia, you’ll need permission to fly a drone in a National Park in the state of New South Wales, but over the border in Queensland, you do not.

Early morning view of South Stradbroke Island, Queensland. DJI Mavic.

Flying safely

Investing time learning the rules and regulations is just one part of things. You also need to learn to fly safely.

A major part of this is learning to identify hazards, whether they be trees, powerlines, buildings, weather, or as I found out once, a swooping bird in my local park.

It’s always a good idea to have a pre-flight and post-flight-check routine in place.

Conclusion

Buying a drone is a fantastic way of adding new viewpoints to your photography. The latest offerings from companies such as DJI have given photographers the ability to capture scenes that were not possible a few years ago without chartering a plane or helicopter.

However, there are many things to consider before you dive in. Consider what you want to use the images for, which model to buy, and how to edit your images. You also need to learn how to fly safely and legally.

I hope this photographer’s guide to buying a drone has been helpful if you are currently looking at adding a drone to your photography kit.

What other considerations do you think are important when considering buying a drone? Tell us below.

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

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Free Tools to Easily Remove a Background in Photos

04 Mar

The post Free Tools to Easily Remove a Background in Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Whether you’re replacing a dull sky, cutting-out a product or creating a collage, sooner or later you’ll need to remove a background in photos. Professionals and amateurs alike need an efficient tool for this task. Fortunately, there are some free alternatives in the market for all levels of expertise. Here, I’ll show you some of them.

remove a background in photos

Removing the background is usually very meticulous and tedious work. It is, however, one of the most needed edits. Because of this, developers have come up with different solutions. I’ll show you some of the free tools available, so you can choose what’s best for you.

Source Image

It’s easier to remove a background when your image is well exposed and when the subject has defined edges and a contrasting background. To better test the tools, I’ll use an image with these characteristics, but also one that doesn’t.

The second image will be a simple snapshot with a slightly underexposed subject, some hot points, and a busier background. Let’s see how each tool behaves in both situations.

Image 1 (left): 1/1000; f8; ISO 200. Image 2 (right): Snapshot in auto mode.

Edit Photos for Free

Edit Photos For Free is a website where you can remove the background. It’s free, without having to register for an account and without previous training or knowledge. You just draw the border, then indicate what is the foreground and the background; the program will do the rest.

remove a background in photos

Pros

It really is free, you won’t be asked to register or upgrade during the process, nor at the end of your work. No tricks as far as I can see.
You can download the final version without losing resolution.
You don’t need to have previous knowledge or skills – it is very user-friendly.
When the source image is well-exposed and has a contrasting background, it will do a very good job drawing the border automatically. Just by adjusting the tolerance value, I didn’t need to do any further adjustments for image number one.

remove a background with edit photos for free

Cons

It wouldn’t allow me to rotate image number two.
You can’t replace the background, you either leave the transparency or color it.
If the image foreground is not super clear, you will have to draw the edges yourself. I had to do this for image number two and refining the selection was not very intuitive.
The shadow and feather options didn’t do any noticeable changes.

review to remove a background in photos

Background Burner

Background Burner is free to use, however, you do need to register. As soon as you upload the image, it automatically runs the first selection.

remove a background in photos with background burner

Cons

I start with the cons because it’s the first impression I got. It’s free if you register, which means you are paying with your data. It’s not super invasive as it only asks for email and country. But still, it’s not ideal.
You can’t replace the background or color it. You’ll need to use another program if you want to do that. If you save it as JPG, though, it will automatically fill the background with white.
The automatic selection is not very intuitive. Here you can see how it did in both of my images. In this case, image number two was better, and it even gave me some choices to pick from.

remove a background in photos with background burner

Pros

The tools for fine-tuning the first selection are better than the previous website. It has the basic tools for refining easier things and pixel tools to go into details.
You can download the final version without losing resolution. You can even choose between JPG or PNG. Remember that to keep the transparency you need the PNG.
You don’t need to have previous knowledge or skills – it is very user-friendly.
It has the option to upgrade into a paid service if you need more accuracy and tools.

Background burner selection tools

Photoscissors

Photoscissors is one of the most popular and known choices out there to remove a background in photos.

It’s one of the most complete tools. They even tell you that on the first page: “Remove a background and replace it with a transparency, solid color, or background image.” So, it already gives you more options than the past two websites.

photoscissors

Pros

The auto-selection didn’t do an amazing job, but the touch up is easier because of the slider that gives you more control over the brush size. It also has a good feathering system.
It allows you to easily replace the background with another image or color.
You can also create a shadow and control opacity and blur.

remove a background in photos

Cons

It’s free to use even without registering, but you can only download a low-resolution version. This is not very evident when you start working on your image, so you might end up losing your work or be forced to pay the upgrade. Unless a low-resolution is enough for your needs.

Photoscissors down side

Extra

It has a hair selector that is very accurate. If you do many portraits, it may be worth considering a subscription.

GIMP

Gimp is a free and open-source editing program.

remove a background in photos using GIMP

Pros

It has many selection tools that you can use and combine for selecting your background in a controlled and precise manner.

For Image 1 (left), I used the Fozzy selection tool and the Rectangle tool for details. For image 2 (right), I used the Scissors selection tool and the Free select for the details.

You can keep your background, shadow, and foreground in different layers to work independently and non-destructively.
You can do your entire project in it. Adjustments, collages, etc. without the need to use any other website or software.

remove background from images for collages

Cons

You need to download the program onto your computer – you can’t work online.
It does require a learning curve, and it’s not the friendliest of interfaces.

Conclusion

To remove a background in photos has become easier and more accessible with technology, but there are no magic tricks. You do need patience, skills and good software, which often costs.

If you’re going to let the algorithm do most of the work, try different ones to see which one ‘reads’ your image better and saves you more time. If you’re ready to dive in and take charge, go with GIMP. The time you spend learning it becomes a skill that will save you time in a future project.

Do you have any other websites or tools to remove a background in photos? Let me know in the comments section.

The post Free Tools to Easily Remove a Background in Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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