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Incredible video showcases world’s first 8K VR drone footage of Iceland’s Mt. Fagradalsfjall volcano

02 May

Incredible new footage, captured with an 8K Insta360 Pro 2 mounted to the bottom of a DJI drone, shows the Mt. Fagradalsfjall volcano in Geldingadalur, Iceland as it continues to erupt. The immersive visuals were captured by Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, founder of Arctic Images, and drone pilot Arnar Þór Þórsson in collaboration with Perlan Museum, ‘which hosts a state-of-the-art 8K planetarium and other exhibitions on Iceland’s geographic wonders.’

The Mt. Fagradalsfjall volcano erupted for the first time in roughly 800 years back on March 19, 2021. Since then, it’s been spewing lava from its fissures, making for incredible visuals that have brought photographers from around the world to see the geological phenomenon. We’ve already seen a number of incredible videos captured with drones flying over the active volcano, but none of which allow you to control what you’re seeing. Until now, that is.

While YouTube limits playback to 4K, the footage was recorded in 8K using an Insta360 Pro 2 attached to the bottom of a DJI Matrice 600 drone. According to Insta360’s blog post detailing the creation of this video, the drone and camera flew over lava that reached reached temperatures as high as 1240°C degrees (2264°F). Despite the intense heat, which we’ve already seen is capable of melting drones, both the Insta360 Pro 2 and DJI Matrice 600 survived the flight.

For the best viewing experience, make sure you’re using a browser that supports YouTube’s VR content and have plenty of bandwidth to stream the video at full resolution. Another option, if you have one on hand, is to use a VR headset to really immerse yourself in the footage.


Image credit: Photos provided by Insta360

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear

02 May

The post 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeb Buchman.

10 essential pieces of landscape photography gear

What’s the best landscape photography gear? What gear do you need to take stunning landscape photos?

In this article, I share with you my 10 most essential gear items – items that I use all the time in my own landscape photography, and items that I highly recommend you purchase if you’re after the best landscape shots.

So read through this list. And ask yourself, “What am I missing?”

Then, if you can, take a trip to the (online) camera store!

Let’s get started.

1. The internet

Whenever I plan a landscape photography photoshoot, I usually begin by googling the area. If it’s a relatively well-known location, you will probably find some very interesting, comprehensive websites made by other photographers or adventurers/bloggers.

The problem is that if it’s a famous location, you will also get a ton of not-so-interesting (and even incorrect) information, as well. Going through Google results to separate the helpful and high-quality blogs or websites from the crummy ones is an art form. But with a little practice, reading a few sentences of a blog will clue you in as to whether or not the information you’ve found is worth considering.

If you can’t find two or three really good blogs about your location, head over to AllTrails. It has a sizeable database of locations that have been hiked, including user reviews of the location and the level of difficulty. If you’re planning to photograph a famous site, Tripadvisor has a good database of information, including nearby places to stay.

With blogs, AllTrails, and/or Tripadvisor, you’ll be off and running (probably with more information than you need). In most cases, the tricky part is searching through everything you find and turning it into an overall plan of action.

essential landscape photography gear

2. A strong backpack

When it comes to landscape photography gear, a backpack is absolutely essential – and it’s not a good place to go cheap. You get what you pay for, and it’s very important you use a strong, water-resistant bag, one with reinforced padding.

Do yourself a favor and invest in a high-quality bag, like the Lowepro Pro Trekker. It will take care of your camera and lenses, and it will last you many years.

essential landscape photography gear waterfall

3. A weather-sealed camera

Eventually, you’re going to drop a camera. It happens to the best of us (at least, that’s what everyone told me the first time I dropped a camera!), especially those of us who shoot in less-than-perfect weather conditions.

So make sure you purchase a camera made from durable materials – go for a metal alloy body instead of a plasticky, entry-level camera. My first full-frame DSLR was the Nikon D700, and that camera could survive being run over by a small truck. A perfect companion for the clumsy beginner that I was back then.

Also consider investing in a quality raincoat for your lens/camera. I don’t recommend getting one of the cheap, flimsy, clear plastic covers made from recycled sandwich bags; they will tear easily and won’t stay put in windy conditions. Instead, get a cover that is heavy duty because one good coat will last a long time, and they aren’t too pricey.

4. A sturdy tripod

A tripod is an item you don’t want to mess around with. In fact, this is the one item more than any other that I would recommend you consider really splurging on.

Why? A tripod is designed to keep your camera steady, to handle poor footing out in the muddy, rocky, sandy wilderness, and to protect your camera setup from sudden falls. This requires ultra-solid construction – which doesn’t come cheap.

Plus, a flimsy tripod could end up costing you a chunk of cash in repair bills. It only takes one good gust of wind to knock over an unstable tripod. If you buy a nice camera and lens but mount it on an entry-level tripod, it’s like putting old, worn tires on a Ferrari. The car won’t run properly, and it’s dangerous for the rest of the setup.

waterfall with long-exposure stream

A good tripod will outlive the rest of your kit, so it’s rare you’ll need to invest in more than one over the course of many years. Spending a few extra bucks goes a long way toward having a more stable, secure setup.

To find an excellent tripod, check out Really Right Stuff, Manfrotto, Gitzo, and Feisol. In my opinion, you should strongly consider carbon fiber tripods over aluminum; they’re lightweight, and they’re also ridiculously strong.

5. Lenses

Lenses are where the fun begins and your wallet ends.

See, lenses are the single most important piece of landscape photography equipment you can buy. You can have the finest camera, tripod, backpack, memory cards, and accessories available – but if you don’t have quality glass, you’ll seriously struggle to take a great photograph.

I typically prefer to shoot with prime lenses as opposed to zoom lenses. Why? Because I want to get as intimate with the scene as possible. With zoom lenses, I tend to get a bit lazy and shoot without adequately working the scene. There is no substitute for moving your feet and seeing the composition with your own eyes rather than through the viewfinder. This special perspective is lost if you zoom instead of walking around and considering the scene.

That said, lens choice is pretty subjective. I know plenty of photographers who prefer using zoom lenses; that’s great, and most of the time, the best gear for you is the gear you’re most comfortable with.

But here’s my suggestion: Before buying any lens, prime or zoom, rent it first. Because you can’t know how the lens will work for you until you use it in various situations.

field of sunflowers at sunset

6. A reliable remote trigger or shutter release

Remote triggers are often overlooked by landscape photographers. But I firmly believe that a remote trigger makes a big difference.

Without a remote, you have to physically press the shutter button on top of the camera, and no matter how careful you are, and no matter how securely fastened the camera is to the tripod, this will introduce some shake.

So if you want a tack-sharp image, don’t let anything touch the camera. Get your setup as steady as a concrete slab.

Instead of pressing the shutter button with your finger, invest in a reliable remote shutter release. They aren’t expensive, and they can go a long way toward keeping your photos sharp.

7. Filters

In landscape photography, some filters are almost as essential as good lenses. I’ll keep it brief here and stick with just a few basic filters I always travel with.

A circular polarizer

A polarizing filter helps mitigate the nasty, harsh reflections of the sun off shiny objects such as water and wet rocks. Using a circular polarizer is easy; you simply turn the filter until you see the glare disappear.

A polarizer will also help darken the sky and make it a deeper, richer blue. Some people like that look, and some don’t. I use a polarizer practically all the time when shooting in daylight.

A neutral density filter

An ND filter basically acts as sunglasses for your lens: it blocks some light from reaching the camera’s sensor, thereby slowing down the exposure.

For example, a 3-stop ND filter allows through three stops less light than you’d get without the filter attached. A 5-stop ND filter will allow five stops less light, and so on.

For the serious landscape photographer, I’d recommend carrying a 2-stop, 3-stop, and 10-stop ND filter. If you want to do some long exposure waterscape work, the 10-stop filter will help make the water silky smooth. You can also stretch out clouds or turn people into invisible ghosts with ND filters.

A graduated neutral density filter

GND filters are similar to ND filters, but only the upper portion of the filter is darkened. And the darkening effect is gradual, starting strong at the top and getting darker as you move toward the middle:

graduated neutral density filter

When would you need a GND filter?

Generally, in sunrise and sunset situations when the sky is brighter than your foreground. You can use a graduated neutral density filter to darken the horizon while keeping the foreground nice and bright.

In other words, a GND filter balances the light from the brighter horizon and the darker foreground.

A reverse graduated neutral density filter

A reverse GND filter is like a standard GND, except the tint gets darker as you move from the outer edge of the glass toward the middle.

reverse graduated neutral density filter

When would you use a reverse GND filter? They’re great for shooting sunrises and sunsets where the horizon line is the brightest area of the frame and the sky gets progressively darker as you move upward.

A UV or clear filter

I want to do everything I can to protect my lenses from wear and tear.

So I always have a clear or UV filter on the front of every lens I own.

This does nothing to help improve the photograph, but it does a great job protecting the front lens element from dirt and dust, or from me walking into a door lens-first, which has happened more times than I prefer to admit.

essential landscape photography gear waterfall with rainbow

8. Extra batteries and memory cards

Always, without exception, carry an extra battery for your camera, an extra memory card, and extra batteries for other battery-powered devices.

If you’re bringing along a flash that takes four batteries, take an extra set of four with you. Chances are you won’t need them – but there will always be the one time when you do want them and wish you had thought to pack them.

9. The Photographer’s Ephemeris

The Photographer’s Ephemeris is a clever app that accurately details when and where the sun and moon will rise and set.

If you’re out chasing sunsets and sunrises for photographs, this app is a must-have.

10. A good pair of shoes

No joke. For landscape photographers, having a comfortable pair of shoes is like having good vision. If your feet aren’t comfy, then nothing else matters; you will not be as good a photographer as you would be with comfy feet.

This especially holds true on longer hikes, so invest in a good pair of hiking boots. Make sure the boots strike a balance between breathing well and offering some water resistance.

long exposure farm

Essential landscape photography gear: conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the best landscape photography gear – and you’re hopefully ready to take a few stunning landscape photos of your own!

So buy the gear you need. Then get out, have fun, and start shooting!

What do you view as essential landscape photography gear? What gear do you always take with you when shooting landscapes? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeb Buchman.


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Here’s How to Shoot in Harsh Light [Video]

02 May

The post Here’s How to Shoot in Harsh Light [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

It’s a tip often given to beginners:

Only photograph when the light is soft and beautiful.

But what if you can’t find the time to get out during the soft light, and you still want to take photos? Or what if you’re in a jaw-dropping, once-in-a-lifetime location and the light is just too bright? What then?

That’s when it pays to know how to create stunning shots in harsh light.

In this video, professional photographer Nigel Danson explains how to capture gorgeous images even in the worst lighting situations. Danson’s discussion centers around landscape photography, but the tips apply to many photographic genres.

To discover how to create beautiful images in harsh light, check out the video below. And then leave a comment with your favorite tip, trick, or piece of advice for harsh light photography!

The post Here’s How to Shoot in Harsh Light [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Weekly Photo Challenge – Leaves

01 May

The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Leaves appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Lots of you got involved in last week’s challenge ‘phones’ well done! This week we want you back on your actual cameras and we want you turning your attention to the trees, but more specifically their leaves! Lots of detail to be found in leaves, interesting patterns, shadows, reflections, mottled sun shining through, etc.

Make sure you read to the end of this post, there’s a little bonus in there for you**

Share your photographs of leaves – make sure it’s a NEW photo for this challenge! You have to take your camera and go take a NEW photo for this one, no photos from your previously shot leaves folder, got it! ?

Tag your photos with #dPSLeaves and make sure you tag us on social media.

leaves photo challenge for dps
This leaf was on its plant on a rocky bridge in Scotland, they were in shadow and this one was sitting out in the sun.
leaves photo challenge for dps
During Covid lockdown here in Melbourne, I’d go walking each day with my kids, challenge myself to find a new leaf.
leaves photo challenge for dps
Sun burning through a tree on a cold day here in Melbourne, over-exposed to kill detail and give it a ghostly look.

Well, you get the idea, we want to see you be creative with leaves! Simple really… Take a simple, easy to find subject and try to make it stand out through working on your skill and trial & error! Mostly we’re shooting digital I guess, so it doesn’t really cost much to try, try and try again!

**Here’s that little bonus I was talking about, we want to hear YOUR weekly challenge theme ideas – make sure when you post your photo below that you let us know your theme that you’d like everyone to try! We’ll feature your photo for that challenge.

If you get stuck for ideas, jump into the Facebook group and see what others are doing!

How do I upload my photo to the comments?

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

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11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits

01 May

The post 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

11 tips for photographing high school senior portraits

Looking for some senior portrait tips to take your photos to the next level?

In this article, I’m going to give you plenty of helpful tricks, techniques, and advice – so you can capture stunning portraits, consistently. Specifically, I’ll share:

  • A handy trick that guarantees you never run out of poses
  • A few easy ways to get seniors feeling comfortable in front of the camera
  • A step-by-step process for generating plenty of satisfaction and free advertising after your session
  • Much, much more!

Sound good? Let’s get started.

What to do before the senior portrait session

When it comes to planning for sessions, seniors are some of my favorite people to work with. Don’t get me wrong, I love families, children, engaged couples, and wedding ceremonies, but seniors are close to the top of my list.

senior portrait tips

Why, you may ask? It’s simple: seniors are excited to model, seniors are some of my best marketing tools, and seniors know what they want. They also have a great sense of style, which translates well in their photographs.

When a high school senior books a session with me, I get started immediately. I don’t wait for the actual photoshoot; instead, I take several steps right away to let my client know I am excited about working with them. I have found that if you do these things, your session will not only run smoothly, but you will have a client who loves to refer you to their friends.

So here are the key items to do prior to the photoshoot:

1. Communicate your excitement

First things first, before doing anything else:

Let the senior know how excited you are about working with them. Since seniors are all about social media, I send out a tweet explaining how excited I am to work with them and to plan their session – and I make sure to do this within a few days of the booking.

senior with guitar in woods

2. Really get to know your client

After sending out the tweet (above), I give the senior a tailored questionnaire so I can get to know them better.

Some of the questions found in the questionnaire include:

  • What are some of your favorite features about yourself?
  • What do you want to remember most about this time in your life?
  • Are there any specific locations you have in mind for your shoot?
  • How would you spend your ideal Saturday?
  • How would you describe your personal style?

This helps me tailor the photoshoot to their personality, interests, and needs.

3. Give clothing suggestions on a Pinterest board

Even though seniors are on top of the latest styles, they often need help deciding what to wear to their session.

So a week before the session, I send them a link to a Pinterest board – one that’s full of clothing and prop examples. This gives the senior specific ideas of what to bring. It helps your client, and it also helps you achieve the look you want in your own portfolio.

senior portrait tips black and white

What to do during the senior portrait session

In this section, I explain my session workflow – what I do to make the hours I have with my senior memorable and stress-free (and fun!).

You can have a great experience by following these tips:

1. Have a real conversation

Many seniors don’t feel totally comfortable in front of the camera. So to break the ice, talk to them, ask them questions, and find out what their plans for the future are.

Seniors are at an awesome stage in their lives; they have their whole future ahead of them. So encourage them and invest in them when you have the chance.

They will feel appreciated, valued, and confident after hearing reassuring words from an adult who isn’t their parent.

senior portrait girl laughing

2. Praise your client (and show them photos)

Most seniors have never been in front of a professional photographer other than for the cheesy pictures their parents had them take when they were younger. So make them feel comfortable.

Praise them when they look good in front of the camera. I love to turn my camera around and show them some little peeks of how well they are doing. They love this! It will encourage them to keep up the good work, and it will give them confidence in their appearance.

3. Keep plenty of posing examples on hand

You may have some go-to poses you use for your seniors. But since each person is different, you need to have several tricks up your sleeve.

Enter the smartphone.

Before your session, simply browse the web and take screenshots of poses you like.

Then, when you hit a rut during your senior portrait shoot, just whip out your phone and look at your saved poses.

It might feel like cheating at first, but seniors love this approach. They think it’s so cool that you’re invested enough that you planned for their poses. It makes them feel valued.

senior portrait tips

4. Make sure to bring props

I love to bring small props for my seniors to hold or sit on during the photoshoot. This could be an old folding chair, a cute beach hat, an old quilt, or even some books.

Props are a great way to spice up your senior portraits. Plus, some people feel really awkward in front of the camera at first, so little props will give them something to do with their hands while they adjust to your presence.

What to do after the senior portrait session

After a session, you can keep your clients excited, satisfied, and ready to recommend your services with these senior portrait tips:

1. Post a teaser

The day after a senior portrait session, I post a “teaser” or “sneak peek” photo from their session on Facebook.

Your senior will share that teaser with all of their friends through social media, which means more publicity for you and your business. (That’s another reason why I love seniors!)

2. Send out a handful of photos in advance

The following week, after I have edited all of the images, I will send ten files to them through PASS.

The senior will also share these images through Facebook, and it will help them understand why they should purchase a disc with all of their high-resolution images.

3. Give the senior a great gift bag

As soon as I have all of the images edited, I will order a custom book and send it to the senior – along with a really appealing package.

The package includes a handwritten note, business cards, and other little goodies. My seniors always love how personal I make the gift bag for each of them (another great reason to send them a questionnaire and to get to know them well during the session).

4. Post on your blog

After you’ve delivered all the final images, blog about the session, including images you didn’t include in the original ten.

This blog post will also be shared on social media with their friends and family (more free advertising!).

senior by the ocean

Bonus tip: Edit for longevity

When post-processing senior photos, always remember that you are photographing for the parents as much as you are photographing for the senior client. I keep “fad” type editing out of the equation because I know ten years from now the parents will want a solid (i.e., not overly processed) image on the wall.

Instead of using “fad” editing techniques, I always let style come from the locations I choose. You can do this by choosing old brick buildings, abandoned farmhouses, fields of cotton, etc. The seniors love this, and their parents will appreciate the timelessness of the photographs they receive.

senior portrait tips girl in forest

Senior portrait tips: final words

It is not hard to rock a session with your seniors. It just takes some extra things to go above and beyond – so the seniors know you appreciate them.

All of these extra things will make your client feel special and will translate into those coveted word-of-mouth referrals for you!

Now over to you:

Which of these senior portrait tips do you like most? Which will you try the next time you’re doing senior portraits? Share your thoughts (and photos) in the comments below!

This post was written by guest contributor Meghan Newsom. Meghan is a lifestyle and wedding photographer located in northern Alabama. When she’s not writing for her lifestyle blog, cooking up gluten-free recipes, or taking pictures, you can find her exploring outside with her husband and pup.

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Sigma Announces the “Reborn” 35mm f/1.4 Art for E-Mount and L-Mount

30 Apr

The post Sigma Announces the “Reborn” 35mm f/1.4 Art for E-Mount and L-Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Sigma announces the "reborn" 35mm f/1.4 for E-mount and L-mount

Earlier this week, Sigma announced its latest lens, the 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art for L-mount and Sony E-mount cameras. 

It’s a redesign of Sigma’s popular 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art lens, but “reborn for mirrorless and empowered through Sigma’s [latest] technology.” Specifically, you can expect superior optical performance compared to the original 35mm f/1.4, especially in terms of bokeh quality and aberration reduction; Sigma also promises “fast and quiet AF,” plus “a professional feature-set” packed into “a compact body.”

I’m a fan of the Sigma Art line, but I’ve been frequently frustrated by the size and heft of the lenses. Fortunately, the 35mm f/1.4 addresses these problems. Sigma rates it as “significantly smaller and lighter than the existing 35mm f/1.4,” and while I wouldn’t go that far (it’s about 0.6 in/15 mm shorter and 0.7 oz/20 g lighter), the lens should balance better on Sony mirrorless cameras – especially Sony APS-C models – than its predecessor. 

Above, I mentioned the improved optical performance on the new 35mm f/1.4. Sigma’s anti-flare and anti-ghosting technology, as well as low dispersion elements designed to combat aberrations, guarantees superb clarity even in tricky shooting conditions. And you can expect improvement to the (already impressive) bokeh, thanks to the 11 aperture blades, compared to 9 on the previous version.

Sigma 35mm f/1.4 lens announcement

Interestingly, Sigma has added an aperture ring to the redesigned 35mm. You have the option to adjust the aperture via the camera dials, but for those who prefer a more tactile shooting experience, manual aperture selection is always an option. The lens is also dustproof and splashproof, so the 35mm f/1.4 can be used successfully for outdoor event photography, street photography, and even landscape work. And while I haven’t had the opportunity to hold the 35mm f/1.4 in my hands, I’m confident that it, like all of Sigma’s Art lenses, can take a significant beating.

The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art should appeal to plenty of photographers, especially portrait shooters in need of stunning background bokeh in a portable (and inexpensive) package, street photographers after a wider focal length, and event photographers looking for stunning optics and a fast maximum aperture. But I can also see the 35mm f/1.4 working as a travel lens, an architectural lens, and even a landscape lens.

The brand-new Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art is currently available for preorder, and you can grab it for just $ 899 USD. Expect the lens to start shipping in May.

Now over to you:

Are you impressed by the Sigma 35mm f/1.4? What do you think of it? Have you used the older version, and how do you think the new version will measure up? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Sigma Announces the “Reborn” 35mm f/1.4 Art for E-Mount and L-Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings

29 Apr

The post 8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

8 tips for perfect moon photography settings

Many people have attempted to capture a picture of the bright ball of light that governs the night sky, but getting your moon photography settings just right can be quite tricky. It’s easy to get frustrated when taking photos of the moon, especially when so many moon shots online look crisp and clear.

Fortunately, capturing great moon shots isn’t too difficult once you wrap your head around a few basic elements. With a little patience and practice, you’ll be taking excellent photos of the moon in no time at all!

Moon photography settings: the basics

The first thing to know about shooting the moon is that it’s deceptively bright. You might not think of this giant ball of rock as particularly luminous when compared to the sun, but it puts out way more light than you might think. This makes it tricky to calculate exposure and get your other moon photography settings just right.

The other important item to keep in mind is that the moon is not a slow celestial body. In Greek mythology, Selene, the goddess of the moon, speeds across the night sky in a glowing chariot. Our ancient ancestors knew what they were talking about! If you take a picture of the moon, you have to keep its constant movement in mind; otherwise, you’ll never get a great shot.

Moon Photography Settings Moon Behind Trees
Nikon D7100 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/8 | 1/180s | ISO 640

The final part of the equation to remember is that the moon, while relatively close in a galactic sense, is pretty far away when you look at it from the perspective of a photographer. If you want a good picture of the moon, you need at least a 200mm lens – and even then, it’s best to use a crop-sensor camera for a bit more reach. So a focal length of 300mm or greater is recommended, and photographing the moon is one time when megapixels really do matter. Unless you have a very long zoom lens, you’ll be cropping your images quite a bit.

If you want a simple answer to the question of what moon photography settings to use, here’s my advice:

  • Shoot with a fast shutter speed of at least 1/180s.
  • Use a small aperture like f/8.
  • Keep your ISO low – so that when you crop, your picture will remain clean and not noisy.
  • Use a telephoto lens.
  • Always shoot in RAW; that way, you have plenty of room to edit the colors, sharpness, and other elements of your photo afterward.
Moon Photography Settings Clouds and Foreground Trees
Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4.8 | 1/200s | ISO 640

While the above advice is a good starting point, you will need to experiment and figure out which settings are right for you. It’s a good idea to dive a little deeper into aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to find out what effect they have on your moon photos so you can get the shots you’re aiming for.

Now let’s take a closer look at the best moon photography settings:

1. Use Manual mode

This might be intimidating if you’re used to letting your camera make exposure decisions for you, but moon photography is a great way to learn Manual mode.

Your camera knows what to do in most well-lit situations, but shooting the moon isn’t one of them. You have to take control, and Manual mode lets you choose the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – all of which are critical to getting good pictures of the moon. You must be very specific about your exposure settings, and Manual mode lets you dial in the precise values you need.

Crescent Moon with Trees in Foreground
Dim morning light meant I had a bit more freedom to adjust my exposure settings, which was very easy to do in Manual mode.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/180s | ISO 200

2. Shoot in RAW

You have enough to worry about when taking pictures of the moon: exposure settings, weather concerns, cloud cover, foreground obstructions…and that’s just the beginning.

Setting the right white balance and making sure your highlights and shadows are perfectly captured is almost impossible to do in the moment. Thankfully, RAW can save the day.

Crescent moon Unprocessed RAW
This is the unprocessed RAW file straight out of my camera.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/180s | ISO 200

Shooting in RAW gives you ultimate flexibility when editing your moon photos in a program such as Lightroom. You can adjust the exposure, tweak the sharpening, bring out details you might have missed, and of course, adjust the white balance to your heart’s content.

The JPEG format is fine for many photographic situations, but not moon photography. For best results, use RAW.

Crescent moon processed RAW
The exact same image as above, but after the RAW file was processed in Lightroom. Adjustments include white balance, boosted exposure, and tweaks to the highlights/shadows.

3. Use a fast shutter speed

Shutter speed is a good place to start when thinking about moon photography settings because of how fast the moon moves across the sky. Similar to sports photography, you’ll need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

1/180s is a good starting point, but if you can go higher without increasing your ISO, I recommend doing so. 1/250s is good and so is 1/300s (go beyond that, and you start to get diminishing returns).

full moon
My 1/10s shutter speed was much too slow, and the picture is blurry as a result. 1/10s lets in a lot of light, but the moon moves too much to get a crisp, sharp picture at that shutter speed. Compare this to the image at the end of the article, and you will notice a huge difference!

Nikon D200 | Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 | 300mm | f/11 | 1/10s | ISO 200

4. Keep your ISO low

Cameras have come a long way, and what used to be considered a crazy high ISO – like 3200 or 6400 – is now easily achieved without a huge loss in image quality. Things are a bit different when taking photos of the moon, though. Lower ISOs are always preferable, and that holds doubly true for photos of our nearest celestial neighbor.

ISO 100 or 200 is best, but that might not be realistic given the lens you’re using. Generally speaking, you should be fine with ISO 800 or lower, partly because you will get a cleaner image, but also because you will have more leeway when editing your RAW files afterward.

5. Use a small aperture, but not too small

Most lenses have what’s known as a sweet spot, where the image isn’t too soft and chromatic aberration is well-controlled. This sweet spot isn’t usually at the widest or smallest aperture, but somewhere in the middle.

For that reason, I like to take pictures of the full moon at an aperture between f/4 and f/8. However, the optimal aperture will depend on your particular lens and the type of photos you’re taking.

Moon Photography Settings Crescent and Venus
A crescent moon is very dim! Normally, I recommend a smaller aperture, but for this shot, I needed all the light I could get. I used a large aperture of f/2.8 and an unusually slow shutter speed to capture this celestial dance between the moon and Venus.

Nikon D7100 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 180mm | f/2.8 | 1/90s | ISO 100

Honestly, of all the moon photography settings to worry about, I would put aperture at the bottom of my list. Before you consider the aperture, make sure you have a fast shutter speed and the lowest possible ISO. Finally, adjust your aperture until you get a picture you like.

Even if your photos are not tack-sharp because you had to shoot wide open, it’s a trade-off I recommend making. I would rather have a slightly blurry result than a higher ISO setting that will result in noise, especially in the deep blacks of the night sky.

6. Underexpose slightly

It might seem counterintuitive, but when taking pictures of the moon, you don’t want your images to be as bright as possible. I get my best results when underexposing by one stop or more, depending on the situation.

The easiest way to do this is to set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so your light meter indicates a properly exposed picture. Then drop the exposure by one or two stops. The result is a picture without any blown highlights and plenty of room for editing (as long as you make sure to shoot in RAW).

Full Moon with Power Lines in Foreground
My light meter told me this photo was properly exposed – but in the end, the moon was too bright. I should have dropped the exposure to darken the image.

Nikon D500 | Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | f/4 | 1/200s | ISO 360

I also recommend using spot or center-weighted metering when doing moon photography. The moon is extraordinarily bright compared to the dark sky around it, which causes all sorts of confusion for your camera’s light meter. Telling your camera to meter based on one small portion of the scene (i.e. the moon) will help you get a better initial exposure value, one that you can then fine-tune.

7. Get creative

Taking pictures of the moon is enthralling, especially if you have never done it before. But after a few shots of that big bright ball of light in the sky, start thinking of a new approach. Try putting trees, buildings, or other objects between you and the moon. Experiment with taking pictures during the waxing or waning crescent phase.

Moon Photography Settings Lunar Eclipse
Instead of taking one single picture of the moon during a lunar eclipse, I took 20 and combined them in Photoshop. The end result was much more visually interesting than a single shot would’ve been.

Also, try getting shots at dawn or dusk when you can catch the sky in a rich blue or purple. These are simple, fun ways of taking pictures of the moon that can produce some unexpected results.

8. Manually focus to infinity

Your camera’s autofocus might struggle when it comes to getting pictures of the moon, but you can take care of this by adjusting your lens’s focus point manually.

Make sure your lens is focused as far out as it will go (this is often indicated by an infinity symbol on the lens barrel).

Moon photography settings: conclusion

Moon Photography Settings Full Moon
Nikon D200 | Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 | 300mm | f/2.8 | 1/250s | ISO 200

There’s no magic or secret sauce when it comes to getting great shots of the moon. The only real trick is to get the right moon photography settings and to keep practicing until you’re happy with the results.

Try some of these tips as a starting point, and then branch out and see what you can come up with. You might be surprised at the pictures you’re able to take!

Moon photography settings FAQ

Can I take a picture of the moon with my phone?

It’s possible, but this is an area where a DSLR or mirrorless camera with full manual controls really has the edge. A mobile phone can’t zoom in very far, and even those that do have optical zoom lack the light-gathering ability required for good moon shots. That’s not to say it can’t be done, but you’ll likely get significantly better results with a dedicated camera.

Do I need an expensive zoom lens to get a picture of the moon?

A zoom lens helps, but it doesn’t have to be expensive. Even a basic 55-250mm kit lens, like the one that might have come with your camera when you bought it, is fine. Just make sure to follow some of the tips in this article, and you can get some good moon pictures.

What white balance setting should I use to get a picture of the moon?

That really depends, and there’s not always a good answer. Some people like to use the Daylight setting because the moon is reflecting the sunlight and has no actual light of its own. Just make sure you shoot in RAW so you can adjust your white balance after you take the picture.

How do I keep both the moon and the foreground in focus?

First, make sure you are using a small aperture like f/8 or f/11, which will give a much wider depth of field. In addition, you need to put a lot of space between you and your foreground objects. If you’re shooting through tree branches in your own backyard, they will always end up far too blurry. Position yourself so the trees, buildings, or other foreground objects are farther away; this will help make sure they are more in focus.

How do I get the moon to look so big? My moon pictures never look like the professional shots I see online.

Many people have asked me this, and it all comes down to your lens. A longer focal length will make the moon appear larger. If you don’t have a long lens, you can rent one for the few days that a bright full moon is visible. Many professional moon pictures are also cropped, and if you use a very high megapixel camera, you have a great deal of freedom to crop without a huge drop in quality.

The post 8 Tips for Perfect Moon Photography Settings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results)

28 Apr

The post 11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

11 photo manipulation ideas for beautiful results

If you’re looking for some fun photo manipulation ideas to create stunning art, you’ve come to the right place.

Today, manipulating digital photography is a quick and easy process. Want to generate a double-exposure look? Create a tilt-shift effect? Simulate a fisheye lens? All these options and more are accessible thanks to image manipulation programs like Photoshop.

So here are 11 photo manipulation ideas to get your creative juices flowing!

1. Make a tilt-shift effect

tilt-shift effect
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/320s | ISO 100

When viewing a landscape from a distance, the scene looks uniformly focused to our eyes. However, when we look at a fake or model landscape, our physical proximity to the miniature scene creates some interesting optical effects.

But you don’t need a fake landscape to create this “tilt-shift” effect. With the right lenses, you can achieve it in-camera – or you can replicate the phenomenon in post-processing!

Here is a great tutorial on simulating a tilt-shift effect in Photoshop.

2. Generate an anaglyph 3D effect

anaglyph 3D effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100s | ISO 160

Anaglyph 3D renderings are made up of two differently filtered and slightly offset colored images. When viewed through special glasses, the two different colors are seen by different eyes, creating a 3D effect.

Creating an anaglyph 3D image in Photoshop is easy. First, open a photo and duplicate the Background layer twice. Select one of the duplicated layers and click on the FX icon at the bottom of the Layers panel. Select Blending Options – this will open the Layer Style window. Uncheck the G and B checkboxes next to Channels in the central panel. Then click OK.

layer styles window

Next, select the other duplicated layer. Click on the FX icon at the bottom of the Layers panel and select Blending Options again. This time, when the Layer Style window opens, uncheck the R checkbox. Click OK.

Finally, select one of the duplicated layers and nudge it slightly to the left or right using the mouse or the directional keys on the keyboard. The colors in the layers will separate, generating an anaglyph effect.

3. Imitate a circular fisheye lens

circular fisheye effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5 | 1/160s | ISO 320

Photo manipulation ideas inspired by camera equipment can achieve engaging results. A fisheye lens is an ultra-wide-angle that produces a large amount of distortion, creating distinctive panoramic or hemispherical images.

To create a circular fisheye effect, open an image and select the Elliptical Marquee tool. Set the Style dropdown on the top menu to Fixed Ratio and drag the Marquee tool over the center of the image. Click Filter > Distort > Spherize. Adjust the amount of distortion you’d like in the pop-up panel (I usually leave the slider at 100%). Click OK.

To isolate the Spherized section from the rest of the image, keep the Spherized layer selected. Right-click inside the perimeter of the Spherized layer, then hit Select Inverse.

Next, right-click on the outside of the circle and select Fill. In the Fill pop-up box, make sure the Contents dropdown menu is set to Black, the Mode is set to Normal, and the Opacity is set to 100%. Click OK.

The area outside the Spherized subject will fill with black, isolating the fisheye effect.

4. Combine two images for a double exposure effect

double exposure effect
Water photo: Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/500s | ISO 100
Fern photo: Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.8 | 1/80s | ISO 100

From the days of early photography, shooters have gone to considerable lengths to avoid ghosting and double exposures. However, some photographers generate multiple exposures deliberately for creative purposes.

Double exposures can be made in-camera (both digitally and on film), but they can also be imitated in Photoshop.

This article demonstrates a simple way to make a double exposure effect in post-production.

5. Simulate an infrared effect

infrared forest scene photo manipulation ideas

Infrared photography captures wavelengths of light that operate outside the visible spectrum.

While there are several in-camera ways to create infrared imagery, the effect can be simulated in Photoshop, too. Take a look at our article on creating beautiful infrared effects.

6. Create a lens flare

adding a flare effect to an image

When bright light reaches your camera, it can reflect off different parts of the lens to create an interesting flare effect.

While lens flare is sometimes unwanted, it can have interesting creative applications. In this article, we show you how to add a lens flare to an image with Photoshop.

7. Create a sepia look with Photoshop

beautiful sepia leaves
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/8 | 1/200 | ISO 400

Sepia is a warm brown tone named after the pigment derived from the ink sac of the cuttlefish genus Sepia. In photography, the term sepia refers to a form of print toning. The use of sepia in photography began in the 1880s, and today the beautiful warmth of sepia toning is associated with age and history.

To apply a sepia tone to a photograph in Photoshop, first open an image. Create a Curves adjustment layer and adjust the curve to introduce a faded aesthetic:

S-curve in Photoshop

The next step is to set the Photoshop foreground color to around the #35322e mark and the background color to around #cebbab. Click on the Create New Fill Or Adjustment Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel and select the Gradient Map option. This will apply a gradient sourced from the foreground and background color selections.

Select the Gradient Map layer in the Layers panel and open the Properties panel. In the Properties tab, click on the strip of graduated color to open the Gradient Editor.

Once in the Gradient Editor, make sure the Gradient Type is set to Solid and the Smoothness to 100%. Here’s what the window should look like:

Gradient Editor window in Photoshop

Finally, feel free to make adjustments to the Gradient Map (this will change the sepia effect). Once you have finished preparing the Gradient Editor, click OK. And you’re done!

8. Apply an Instagram-like filter in Photoshop

Instagram filter effect
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

Instagram gives users the option to easily customize images or videos before uploading them to the social media platform. And with varied and eye-catching results, many users have looked to emulate Instagram filters in Photoshop!

If you are interested in applying Instagram-inspired effects to your photography work outside of the social media platform, this tutorial might come in handy.

9. Create a Lomography-inspired effect

Lomography effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/320s | ISO 200

Named after the optics manufacturer Lomo, Lomography makes use of the unpredictable and unique optical traits of plastic cameras and alternative processing techniques. And with the rise of digital photography, the Lomo aesthetic has spread to digital manipulation techniques.

While there is no single Lomography look, different Photoshop techniques have been developed to recreate Lomography-type effects.

To produce a Lomo-inspired digital photograph, first open an image in Photoshop. For a more traditional look, you can crop the photo into a square using the Crop tool.

Next, create a Curves adjustment layer. In the Curves histogram, click on the RGB dropdown menu and select Red. Make a shallow S curve within the histogram.

Next, select Green from the RGB dropdown menu and make a slightly more pronounced S curve. Lastly, select the Blue channel from the RGB dropdown menu and make an S curve similar to the green S curve.

Keep in mind that the curves don’t have to mirror each other exactly – what we are aiming for is a well-saturated image with considerable contrast and a distinctive hue. For the best results, I recommend experimenting! You can also add some grain via Filter > Noise > Add Noise.

Lomographic images also tend to have pronounced vignettes. To emulate this effect, duplicate the original image layer. Then, with the Lasso tool selected, draw a loose oval or circle around the center of the image area. Click Select > Modify > Feather. Set the Feather Radius to 250 pixels (the maximum) and click OK.

Next, click on Select > Inverse. With the inverse selection active, create a Levels adjustment layer. In the Levels panel, adjust the sliders to introduce a dark vignette around the edges of the image (the effect will vary from photo to photo, so some experimentation may be required!).

10. Apply a Sabattier effect in Photoshop

Sabattier effect examples

The Sabattier effect is one of many photo manipulation ideas that originated in the darkroom. The process involves rendering a negative or print either partially or completely tonally reversed. In other words, dark areas in the image become light and light areas become dark – for an effect known as solarization.

In the darkroom, this Sabattier effect can occur when a semi-developed print or negative is re-exposed to light for a brief moment; the result is a surreal, eye-catching version of the photo.

Of course, you can also recreate the Sabattier effect in Photoshop with two simple methods:

Sabattier method 1

The first technique applies a solarizing filter directly to your photo.

First, open an image and duplicate it. With the duplicate layer selected, click Filter > Stylize > Solarize. That’s it! The image will instantly take on a solarized aesthetic.

For a more classic solarization effect, convert the image to black and white with a Black and White adjustment layer. Different black and white settings will alter the appearance of the solarization, so try a few different presets or make your own custom adjustments.

Sabattier method 2

While the Solarize filter method works well, it doesn’t offer a lot of creative control – it’s just a straight conversion. To make a less destructive and more customizable solarization effect, open your image in Photoshop and add a Black and White adjustment layer (if desired). Create a Curves adjustment layer.

In the adjustment layer, create this curve:

Sabattier curves adjustment

From there, you can adjust the curve for a dramatic look. Depending on the image, you can also reverse the Curves adjustment layer for a more pronounced or subtle effect. Since you’re working non-destructively with an adjustment layer, this process can easily be undone at any point.

11. Simulate a glitch effect

glitch effect Photoshop photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

Last (but not least!) on our list of photo manipulation ideas is a glitch effect simulation.

Glitches are flaws in a digital medium. Inherent in our modern technological landscape, true glitch art is made by capturing organic glitches, manually corrupting digital media, or by physically manipulating electronic devices to cultivate glitched imagery. The process can be quite tricky, however – so simulating a glitch effect can be an easier way to convey the fragility of digital media.

To discover how to create a glitch effect in Photoshop, check out our step-by-step tutorial.

Photo manipulation ideas: conclusion

From Lomography-inspired effects to simulated glitch art, the creative possibilities of photography are just about limitless. So if you find yourself in a creative rut, give one of the photo manipulation ideas from this list a try – you never know what new perspectives your manipulations might inspire!

Now over to you:

What are your favorite types of photo manipulation? Share your thoughts (and examples!) in the comments below.

The post 11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Video: How to improve your compositions, from a photographer who worked with Ansel Adams

27 Apr

Born in 1949, award-winning photographer Huntington Witherill has been a fine art photographer since 1970. Witherill was fortunate enough to have worked with the famous Ansel Adams, among other notable photographers like Wynn Bullock, Steve Crouch, and Al Weber. Over the past 50 years, Witherill has learned a lot about photography. He recently chatted with Marc Silber of Advancing Your Photography to discuss composition.

In the video below, Silber asks Witherill the core areas he considers in terms of composition. Witherill replies, ‘Well, I think as an overriding sort of mantra for composition, I always like to refer to the way Edward Weston described composition, as being the strongest way of seeing.’ Witherill pays attention to everything in a scene, rather than what attracted him to the scene in the first place. When out shooting, it’s common to be drawn to a specific element of a scene. However, when making a composition, you don’t want to ignore everything in the scene. ‘Finding the strongest way of seeing is really, to my way of thinking, intellectualizing within myself what it is that attracted me to the scene in the first place. And then, doing my best to include all of that within the photograph itself and eliminate everything else out of the photograph,’ Witherill says.

In the video above, Witherill refers to an article he wrote in 2019, ‘The Strongest Way of Seeing.’ In this article, Witherill writes, ‘When it comes to the art of creating successful photographs, formulating an effective composition must surely be at (or near) the top of the list in terms of relative importance.’ He goes on to say when discussing whether or not there are prescribed rules of composition which could always prove successful, ‘As it also turns out, knowing where best to point your camera requires a skill set whose precepts appear to be instinctively derived, rather than intellectually prescribed. What might work in one situation can often prove disastrous in another. As such, employing a formulaic approach to composition will, more often than not, prove ineffectual.’

However, that is not to say that trying to improve your composition or that learning more about composition is a fool’s errand. While Witherill doesn’t believe that composition is a skill that can be taught in a rote fashion, he believes there are steps you can take to make it easier to ‘see’ composition in the field. Witherill likes to squint at a scene, which makes it easier to see the overall shapes and arrange a composition, as you are no longer able to focus on the finer details.

To learn more of Huntington Witherill’s tips for composition, watch the full video above. To view more of Witherill’s work, visit his website. For more videos from Marc Silber, visit the Advancing Your Photography YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions)

27 Apr

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

15 rule of thirds examples to improve your compositions

In this article, we share 15 rule of thirds examples – so you can see this helpful compositional rule in action.

If you’ve been struggling to understand the rule of thirds, or if you’re simply looking for rule of thirds inspiration, you’ve come to the right place.

Let’s get started!

1. Focus

The rule of thirds was designed to simplify artistic composition. The rule suggests that you break down scenes into nine equal parts separated by two evenly spaced horizontal and vertical lines, like this:

Rule of thirds examples - a macro photograph of a fern in black and white
The grid overlay allows you to easily visualize the rule of thirds.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/80s | ISO 100

Important compositional elements can then be positioned along the lines of the grid, in the off-center rectangles, or at the grid’s intersections.

In this photograph of a native fern (above), the sharpest point aligns with the top-left intersection of the rule of thirds grid. This composition generates more interest and depth than a centered subject, engaging the viewer and guiding the eye.

2. Lines

people with rope rule of thirds example
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/160s | ISO 125

In this street scene, the majority of the subjects are positioned in off-center rectangles. Additionally, the two white road lines roughly align with the two horizontal gridlines. This distribution of subjects activates the edges of the photograph, adding a sense of expansion and narrative.

3. Pattern

rule of thirds example pattern in window
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100 | ISO 250

The pattern in this decorative window suggests an overall uniformity. However, the clearest pattern elements are only visible in the upper-left corner of the rule of thirds grid.

This invites the viewer’s eye to explore the various intricate perspectives that make up the scene.

4. Insects

Rule of thirds example - a bee on a flower
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/4.5 | 1/1000s | ISO 400

Here’s a fun rule of thirds example with an insect!

Insects can be tricky to photograph, but applying the rule of thirds can help create a more dynamic composition. If you compose with an insect off-center, you’ll capture a more natural image that alludes to the movement and life of a living creature.

5. Motion

Rule of thirds examples - a Boeing 737 on approach to land at Sydney International Airport
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/16 | 1/400s | ISO 200

One of the main reasons for observing the rule of thirds is to discourage photographers from placing a subject at the center of a photograph. With the help of the rule of thirds, you can create more engaging interactions between the image and the viewer.

We know the standard trajectory of an aircraft. But in the example above, by framing the subject off-center, I was able to generate a clear sense of motion.

6. Depth

Rule of thirds example - flowers in black and white
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

There are many ways to increase the sense of depth in a photograph. By offsetting the sharply focused main subject (i.e., by following the rule of thirds!), you can achieve a sense of spaciousness and three-dimensionality throughout your image.

7. Narrative

car wash window rule of thirds
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

A lot is happening in the center of this image. However, the driving figure behind the central feature is positioned off to the left, creating a shadowy clue to the story behind the photograph.

8. It doesn’t have to be perfect

Rule of thirds example - ducks fly ahead of a large storm cloud
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/11 | 1/500s | ISO 100

Despite its name, the rule of thirds is more like a guide than an unbreakable law. In the image above, three ducks make their way across a thunderous cloudscape. However, while one of the ducks is precisely aligned with the right vertical of the grid, the other two ducks are positioned independently on either side.

Nevertheless, the offset position of the ducks counterbalances the weight of the storm clouds, creating a dramatic juxtaposition. It just goes to show that the rule of thirds can be a flexible guide rather than a rigid rule.

9. Directing the eye

rule of thirds flowers
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.2 | 1/800s | ISO 200

In this image, the emphasis is placed squarely on select areas of the flower. By positioning the subject away from the image center, you can draw the viewer’s eye toward the frame’s corners.

10. Weight

grassy landscape
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

Every element in a composition has a weight, one that’s based on perceptions and real-life experience.

Darker, denser subject matter feels heavier than lighter, airier subject matter. Using the rule of thirds to group darker or lighter subject matter together in one area of an image can emphasize this weight. In the image above, lighter areas toward the bottom contrast with a dense area of shadow in the top third of the frame.

11. Balance

Rule of thirds examples - a canopy of tree branches and leaves
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/125s | ISO 100

The canopy of leaves creates an engaging pattern, punctuated by the dark branches of trees – the heaviest of which are positioned toward the edges of the image.

With the help of the rule of thirds, this balance of lightness and heaviness creates an interesting and harmonious composition.

12. Less can be more

Rule of thirds examples - a black an white photograph of an empty carpark
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/250s | ISO 100

These rule of thirds examples can be a handy reminder that less is often more. By organizing subjects in accordance with the rule of thirds grid, you can give an image room to generate its own visual momentum.

13. Adding detail

a black and white macro photograph of a white lily.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/640s | ISO 100

This macro image of a lily contains plenty of information around the central area of the composition. However, additional off-center details make the most of the image space, adding a sense of expansive detail to the photograph.

14. Abstraction

Rule of thirds examples - an abstracted image of a leaf
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/40s | ISO 320

Even abstract photography can benefit from the rule of thirds. Here, I’ve positioned an out-of-focus leaf so it intersects with the rule of thirds gridline.

15. Space

Rule of thirds examples a grassy field in black and white.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/160s | ISO 100

When a scene is full of information, incorporating an area of reduced activity can add more depth.

So rather than aligning a subject with the rule of thirds grid, try aligning the grid with an emptier portion of the scene. This allows the viewer to visually digest the image and better grasp the scene’s context and behavior.

Rule of thirds examples: final words

As these 15 rule of thirds examples have demonstrated, having a good grounding in compositional theory can be highly useful!

So while the rule of thirds is more like a guide than a strict rule, use it to help you arrange the various elements of your photos.

Now over to you:

Do you use the rule of thirds in your photography? Share some of your own rule of thirds examples in the comments below!

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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