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  • Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station

    As digital photographers, we all know the importance of being able to charge our gear. This is simple if you primarily work out of your home or a studio, but can get a lot more complex if you’re traveling or you are off the grid. So when Iforway offered to send me their outdoor mini power station, PowerElf, for review I jumped at the chance to test it out over the course of a Montana road trip and several camping excursions.

    Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station

    Description from the Manufacturer

    Technical Specifications

    • Large Capacity Power Station (173Wh/46800mAh)
    • IP64 Waterproof shell
    • 3 Ways of recharging the station (wall outlet, solar, 12V cigarette plug)
    • Compact Size (2.65 lbs/ 1.2 kg)
    • 45W type-C port
    • 2 USB ports
    • DC Output Port & DC Cigarette Port (up to 10A)
    • 10 Layers of Power Protection
    • LED Flashlight

    Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station - plug options

    Power Capacity Illustrations

    • Macbook – 3 charges
    • iPhone 7 – 16 charges
    • DSLR camera – 4+ charges
    • Bluetooth Speaker – 12+ hours
    • DJI Mavic air drone – 4 charges
    • GoPro – 20+ charges
    • iPad – 4 charges
    • Portable Freezer/Cooler Mini Fridge – 3+ hours

    My Experience

    I think the Iforway PowerElf is a good tool for photographers, but there are a couple of things that I’d like to clarify in regards to its features right off the bat.

    First, though the Iforway PowerElf is rechargeable (via a wall outlet, solar power, or a 12V car charger), this item does not ship with the equipment necessary to charge via the latter two methods.

    If you wish to recharge the PowerElf via solar power, you’ll need to spend about another $ 150 to purchase a solar charging pad. If you want to recharge the PowerElf via your car’s cigarette lighter, you’ll need to purchase a separate adapter (around $ 10) if you don’t already own one.

    Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station and a blue kayak

    In the Field

    With that out of the way, I can tell you that I’ve used the heck out of the Iforway PowerElf in the past month.

    I’ve used it to charge my iPhone at the lake, and to charge Kindles during a 12 hour road trip. Family members who use CPAP machines and I chatted about how this product could potentially give them more freedom to travel off the grid without compromising their health. I’ve charged camera batteries using the cigarette lighter (I already owned an adapter) while at the beach for a week.

    Likewise, I’ve used it to top off a laptop in order to do a quick photo edit on the go. Because it has a weather resistant outer shell, I felt comfortable bringing it along for all the outdoor activities that the Pacific Northwest has to offer without worrying about it damaging my devices.

    Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station charging a Kindle

    Though the integrated LED flashlight wasn’t a big selling point for me initially, I was surprised how much we reached for it when we’ve been out and about.

    The flashlight has several different modes (solid white light, blinking white light, solid red light, and blinking red light) that make it useful for everything from walking back to a campsite at night to digging through my camera bag while practicing astrophotography.

    I think of the red light functions more as safety measures and thankfully haven’t had to use them yet, though it’s comforting to know that they’re there if I need them.

    legs in a flashlight beam - Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station

    The Bottom Line

    If you’re anything like me, whether or not you ultimately purchase an item you’re interested in often comes down to price. At the Indiegogo launch price of $ 159 (regularly $ 219), the Iforway PowerElf is one of the more expensive power banks on the market.

    If you’re primarily looking for a portable way to charge your phone, you’d probably be better served by purchasing a 32800mAh power bank for around $ 50 on Amazon. However, if you’re looking for a power bank that allows you to charge a wide variety of devices, has the potential to be recharged via solar power, and can withstand being out in the elements, the Iforway PowerElf may be a great tool for you to have in your arsenal!

    Overall, I’d give it four out of five stars.

    Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station

    The post Review of the Iforway PowerElf Outdoor Mini Power Station appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review: Grip Gear Movie Maker 2

    Grip Gear Movie Maker 2
    gripgear.com | $ 130 | Buy now

    In 2018, almost every one of us has a camera that can film HD or even 4K video. Videos can be uploaded to Youtube, Vimeo, Facebook, or Instagram with the click of a few buttons. What once was reserved for filmmakers or TV productions with giant budgets now is available in everything from full-frame DSLRs to GoPros to the smartphone in your pocket.

    So how do you make your videos stand out in a sea of cats flushing toilets and grandmas dancing the funky chicken? A whole accessory segment has grown to try and help you do just that. External microphones, add-on wide/tele lenses, and gyroscopic stabilizers can all polish up your footage and give your videos a far more professional feel (even if you’re just filming your kid’s piano recital). But what if you want something that will stand out even more? The Grip Gear Movie Maker might be what you are looking for.

    What is it?

    The Grip Gear Movie Maker is a compact (claimed to be the world’s smallest) motorized motion control slider/dolly. It’s aimed at smartphone or GoPro photographers, but has a 750g/26oz weight limit high enough for most mirrorless cameras and even a few smaller DSLRs as well.

    Having a tool like a slider gives video-makers access to some of the most iconic shots in cinematography

    For those not familiar, a motorized camera slider is a set of track, single in this case, frequently double in larger rigs, with a motor mount designed to allow a camera to be attached. The motor allows the camera to move along the track at very precise and consistent speeds. Having a tool like a slider gives video-makers access to some of the most iconic shots in cinematography. Tracking, dolly, and push-in shots are some of the foundations of scene building and emotional communication. Adding them to your videos will make them stand out in a way that an add-on wide angle lens never could.

    In use

    Setup for the Movie Maker is fairly easy. The slider track itself is a modular design that clamps together with each section of tracking being about 12in/30.5cm long. This both allows easier transport and gives you the option to purchase additional sections. The motor unit slides onto the rails and has a small ballhead with a standard tripod screw, and a spring-loaded smartphone holder is also included.

    Power is supplied by an internal rechargeable battery giving a claimed run time of up to two hours. The battery’s micro-USB charging port also allows the use of a USB battery pack for far longer run times. The track has three pairs of adjustable feet that allow basic leveling on uneven ground. They also offer the ability to wrap around something like a pipe or fencepost to allow the camera to move vertically. More importantly, there are 1/4-20 and 5/8 tripod mounts on the bottom of the track.

    How does it work?

    While the rails and connecting/mount hardware are aluminum there is unsurprisingly a lot of plastic in the Movie Maker’s construction. You definitely don’t feel like you are holding a high end device – but at $ 130, you also aren’t paying for one either. The little ballhead is of middling quality and care needs to be taken when connecting the rails to make sure there is no gap between the sections of plastic teeth. But overall, construction is just fine for the intended purpose and price-point. The Movie Maker also breaks down into a surprisingly small package. While packing for a family vacation, I tossed everything into some extra space in my suitcase and took it along with no trouble.

    Mounting is both a simple affair and a bit limiting. While the adjustable feet do allow some tolerance for uneven ground and vertical mounting, they’re also not all that large or strong so you won’t want to rely on them if you are using a camera at the top of the Movie Maker’s weight limit.

    The lightest travel tripod I had in my closet held the Movie Maker quite well

    Perhaps more importantly, you’ll quickly find that using the feet pretty much locks you into low angle shots. You’ll be forever dragging tables across the room or trying to set the unit up on a car hood in order to get your camera off the ground. The answer to this is going to be the tripod mount. This gives you far more options to find the optimal height and placement for your shot. And given that the whole unit doesn’t weight that much and doesn’t work with heavy DSLRs, you don’t need much of a tripod at all. The lightest travel tripod I had in my closet held the Movie Maker quite well (assuming that you aren’t filming in a windstorm).

    That said, the design of the Movie Maker’s tripod mount is somewhat frustrating. In an effort to offer both 1/4 and 3/8 tripod mounting options, the mount is a 3/8 thread with a 1/4 adapter nut screwed into it. This would be fine except that for those of us using standard 1/4 tripod screws (most everyone), this means that there is very little surface area to prevent wobbles or twisting as the camera is on the far ends of the track. I ended up using gaffer tape or zip-ties occasionally to keep everything steady. A better design would have had the 1/4 screw go directly into the Movie Maker and include a 3/8 adapter for those who want one. As is, I would probably rig up a tripod plate with a 3/8 screw if I were going to be using the Movie Maker regularly.

    Controls for the Movie Maker are quite simple. In fact, there are only four buttons: two that control starting/stopping/direction and two that increase/decrease the motor speed. There are nine speeds to choose from, the slowest being a VERY slow crawl and the fastest being moderately quick. There is even a handy guide printed on the track that tells you how long the motor will take to cross the whole track at each speed. I would prefer to have seen a few more speeds on the “fast” end and I’m unsure how many people will find the slowest speeds to be useful. Generally though, the speed range works just fine for most purposes.

    One thing worth noting is that, unlike with higher-end sliders, there is no option to pan or tilt the camera while it is running on the track – it is locked to whatever angle you set the ballhead at. On a Hollywood production, this would be a significant limitation. But on a slider at this price-point, it can easily be forgiven.

    With just a few exceptions, the footage is generally outstanding

    With just a few exceptions, the footage is generally outstanding. Using the same camera, I’m not sure that you would be able to tell the difference between a shot on the Movie Maker vs one done on a slider that was three times the price. But about those “exceptions” – the first is that the camera’s microphone can pick up motor hum, especially at the faster speeds. The motor isn’t loud, but it isn’t silent either. The second is something I alluded to earlier: gaps in the plastic teeth. When assembling the rail sections, you need to make sure that there are no gaps where the plastic teeth come together. If there is a gap, you will see a noticeable bump as the motor unit tries to crawl across it.

    The final exception isn’t the fault of the Movie Maker at all, but it is something that must be mentioned given that Grip Gear is positioning the Movie Maker as a tool for “mobile filmmakers”. When using a tripod, gimbal, or other external stabilizer, your camera’s internal optical image stabilization system must be turned off. If left on, it can introduce vibrations on its own just due to the way that these systems operate. The late Canon guru Chuck Westfall described the situation like this:

    “The IS mechanism operates by correcting shake. When there is no shake, or when the level of shake is below the threshold of the system’s detection capability, use of the IS feature may actually *add* unwanted blur to the photograph, therefore you should shut it off in this situation. Remember that the IS lens group is normally locked into place. When the IS function is active, the IS lens group is unlocked so it can be moved by the electromagnetic coil surrounding the elements. When there’s not enough motion for the IS system to detect, the result can sometimes be a sort of electronic ‘feedback loop,’ somewhat analogous to the ringing noise of an audio feedback loop we’re all familiar with. As a result, the IS lens group might move while the lens is on a tripod, unless the IS function is switched off and the IS lens group is locked into place.”

    This is bad enough for still images, but it is even more noticeable when shooting video. Most mirrorless and even many compact and action cameras offer the option to turn their OIS systems off. However, this becomes more tricky for smartphones. Some Android phones and software appear to allow the user to turn off OIS, but you will need to verify this for your own phone.

    Far worse is the news for owners of iPhone models 7/8/X. As far as I have been able to tell, there is no way to disable OIS on an iPhone. This makes the Grip Gear Movie Maker somewhat frustrating for millions of phone owners. As I mention above, this isn’t Grip Gear’s fault and iPhones have the same issue with gimbals, tripods and other stabilization devices. But it’s also an important issue that can’t be ignored.

    Some Extras

    There are a few extras that give the Movie Maker additional functionality. The first is that the motor unit can be removed from the track and with the installation of an included mount, turns into a motorized head for panoramic images or time-lapse video. While fairly basic, this works surprisingly well.

    Sadly, due to the use of the motor to drive the camera rotation, it is impossible to use the panoramic functionality and the slider at the same time. While understandable, especially at this price point, it’s kind of a bummer because timelapse slider videos can be really neat.

    The second extra is something Grip Gear calls a Micro Dolly. It is essentially a small three-wheeled platform that uses the motor unit from the Movie Maker for power. It is a small unit, and the wheels are made for smooth terrain. But even so, in the right location you can get essentially endless dolly type shots.

    Additionally, the two “steering” wheels can rotate allowing the Micro Dolly to run in various size circles. I could see this being useful for portrait, product or even unique timelapse videos.

    What’s the bottom line?

    All told, this is a clever and inexpensive kit that does what it claims to. You can get some unique video shots that are unlike what you see 500 times a day on your friends’ social media posts.

    Are you going to make huge dolly shots with two feet of track or a little rolling cart on a table? No, you aren’t. This isn’t for Hollywood films, it’s for phones and GoPros. It would make a fun birthday/holiday gift for someone you know who enjoys making short videos for YouTube or Instagram. I could also see it being an easy way to add some style to videos for Kickstarter projects or Etsy sellers.

    Would I put it on the top of my list of “most useful video accessories”? No, probably not. But is it in the running for “best value in a fun video accessory”? Absolutely.

    What we liked:

    • Price
    • Unique shots
    • Creativity

    What we didn’t:

    • Subpar tripod mount
    • Weight limits
    • Weak ball mount
    • Interaction with phone OIS systems that can’t be turned off

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 7 Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot

    Many photographers want to have a human being in their shot. They may ask friends or family to pose for them or may engage the services of a model, either paid or a TFP (trade for prints) engagement. If you have not spent any time in front of the camera yourself, then understanding the specific challenges of doing the work of a model is difficult.

    My advice is to spend some time in front of the camera yourself, either posing for another photographer or doing some form of self-portrait work. This isn’t for you to learn about how to specifically pose a model for certain styles of photography (although this is absolutely necessary) but instead for you to understand what it is like to BE a model.

    Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot - girl in white dress in a field

    However, if you don’t opt for that valuable learning experience, take note of these tips instead:

    Top Tips to Get the Best out of a Model Shoot

    #1 – COMMUNICATE

    Most people feel really nervous and uncomfortable in front of a camera. Even an experienced model cannot read your mind and does not know what your intentions are. So before you get started, sit down with the person and talk them through the plans for the shoot.

    Explain your concept, share your goals, sketch out how you want the poses to look, and what mood or expressions you are after. One major mistake a lot of photographers make is to treat their model like a living statue, only there to be posed and take direction, and they forget that model is actually a person.

    By discussing everything at the beginning, you give the person some structure, context, and understanding of the situation, which helps them be less nervous. It also gives them an opportunity to engage with the process, they may even have ideas of their own which could improve on what you initially had planned.

    Making it a cooperative situation builds trust and engagement, lowers barriers, helps relax the model and hopefully give you a better outcome. Constant reassurance and feedback throughout the shoot are also important to keep them motivated.

    Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot - hand holding a chain

    #2 – COMFORT

    Many model shoots often involve the model dressed in clothing that is not always suitable for the environment. When you are standing still in a cold wind wearing a bathing suit, it’s really hard to give off a relaxed summery vibe.

    Be aware of the environment and temperature your person is modeling in, make sure they are as comfortable as they can be in the situation. If you have to do a nude shoot, try and do it in a warm heated room instead of outside. It’s really hard to look relaxed when you are cold and shivering.

    Discuss your model’s strength and endurance with them in relation to the poses you are doing. Then schedule regular breaks and stick to the schedule. Posing can be quite physically demanding as many poses are quite unnatural to hold for extended lengths of time. Be aware of getting into the zone and shooting for too long and not allowing the model to take a break.

    Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot - bare back with tattoo

    #3 – ENVIRONMENT

    As well as the comfort of the model, consider the environment in which you are shooting. Is it inside and private? Is it outside and open to the public? Are they expected to get changed in the back of a car or are there some facilities nearby?

    What can you do to make the model feel comfortable in the environment? Would they like some music playing to help get into the right mood? Is there a private space for them to go have a break? Blankets and hot drinks and somewhere to sit down away from the camera?

    Perhaps it’s a hot sunny day and they need a break away from the heat and the sun? Have they been standing in front of hot studio lights and been constantly flashed while wearing sky-high heels?

    Can they bring along a friend for support and encouragement? Are they able to feel relaxed and engaged and safe while they are working in front of the camera?

    semi nude girl in a blue wrap - Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot

    #4 – EXPLAIN THE POSE

    The way people naturally stand generally looks less than ideal when a shot is taken. Double chins become triple ones, elbows and knees are all awkward, hands on hips or arms crossed in front of the chest, etc., feel comfortable and natural to do, but don’t look so good.

    The kinds of things you need to do to your body to get a pose that looks good can be quite uncomfortable to do and hold for long enough to get several shots. The classic “turtleneck” where you push the head forward to get separation at the jawline feels really odd.

    So take the time to explain and demonstrate the pose to the person. Give them a chance to experiment and figure out how to get the hang of it. Usually, you will need them to do several things at once – stand in a certain way, tilt the shoulders, put the arms in position, move the head to the right angle, have the hair doing something, etc.


    Demonstrate each pose and explain to them why it matters. If you show them the “before” and “after” they will generally understand and be more inclined to make the effort because they can see the difference.

    Start with small easy pose setups to allow them to relax and master the basics before going on to the more complicated poses. That is unless you have a really experienced model who is on your wavelength, in which case, go nuts.

    #5 – HANDS

    Generally, when people are being asked to do something new and difficult, they concentrate on the hard stuff so much that they forget about the unnecessary stuff around the edges. One of those things is their hands, and they can often end up being floppy uninteresting things stuck on the ends of the arms.

    Bad hands can completely ruin an otherwise good shot. So pay attention to what their hands are doing, because the model may not know that they need to with them.

    hand and pearl necklace - Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot

    #6 – MAKE THEM LOOK GOOD

    A lot of fashion photography styles use really artificial poses that look terribly uncomfortable to do. They don’t generally look achievable or attractive to the viewer either, but it appears to be the style of the moment. That might be your desired outcome and I hope you end up with some amazing shots.

    However, one of the great things you can do when working with a model is to make them look good in front of the camera in a way they never have before. A lot of that is because people usually don’t know how to pose well in front of a camera. Creating images that make them look good means they then feel good about what is happening.

    Being able to offer them some copies they can be proud to show people afterward is an added bonus. If they leave the session feeling valued and positive about the experience, they will be more likely to say yes if you ask them to model for you again.lace fan - Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot

    #7 – ENGAGE THE EMOTIONS

    Using a model as a living breathing mannequin is one way to have a model pose for you. For some types of photography that impassive detached style of posing is desired. However, if you want to truly engage the viewer, having some emotion present in the image is more effective.

    Really good models can project a range of different emotions, that is what good professional models do and why they get paid the big bucks. Not everyone gets the option of working with models of that caliber every day, so when working with a less experienced model you may need to coach them around the emotional projection.

    Asking your model to try and feel a particular emotion can be a challenge for them to do on top of all the posing you are asking. So this is a more advanced step that you may not always achieve.

    Talk them through the concept of the shoot – is it a soft spring morning and they are enjoying a walk on the beach in the sun? Are they a cool crisp corporate executive about to give a high-level presentation? A couple of friends enjoy cocktails and nibbles on a summers evening? Help them get into the right headspace to project a feeling or emotion to fully express the pose they are doing.

    Sometimes allowing them to move during the shoot or move into the final desired pose can add an extra level of engagement. Both the body and the brain are fully involved in communicating the external expression of the pose.

    silver shoes - Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot

    Conclusion

    To get someone to stand still and look fantastic while doing it, allowing you to take an amazing photo actually requires a lot of work behind the scenes first. When working with a model, remembering that they are a living breathing person is important, they are not just a thing that’s there for you to manipulate into the desired position.

    Taking care of your model, providing them with an environment and a situation where they can relax and be comfortable while working in front of the camera is important. Someone who is happy and enjoying their modeling experience is far more likely to provide you with great photos, than someone cold, stiff, miserable and uncomfortable (unless that is the look you are after).

    Help them be a good model. Communicate, listen to their feedback, support them and you should both reap the benefits with some memorable images and hopefully a fun experience as well.

    The post 7 Tips to Get the Best Out of a Model Shoot appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Find Your Best Photos Using Compare View In Lightroom Classic CC

    To compare your images in Lightroom, you can either use Survey View or Compare View. In this article, I will focus on Compare View in Lightroom Classic CC.

    Comparing images allows you to choose the very best image or images to edit in the Develop Module. Compare View is used to compare two similar images, whereas Survey View is useful for comparing a series of similar photos to narrow down your favorite choices.

    I personally use Compare View often because as a still life photographer, I am often filtering through many images that are very similar to each other. Compare View allows you to do this efficiently. Grid View in the Library Module is where you can find and utilize Compare View.

    Using Compare View

    With the images of the Brussels sprouts below, my goal was to select the best composition. Although the pictures look really similar, some of them are better than others in terms of the placement of the knife and the Brussels sprouts, and how they lead the eye through the frame. I wanted the cut Brussels sprout to fall in one of the focal points according to the Phi Grid, and the other small pieces to look random and well balanced.

    This is how some of the unedited images look in Grid View.

    Grid View-Best Photos Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    To compare your images, start in Grid View. The keyboard shortcut to get to Grid View is G.

    Then enter  C to go to Compare View. You can also hit the X/Y icon on the left-hand side of the toolbar.Using Compare View-Lightroom-DPS

    Choose the first image you would like to compare. This will appear in the left-hand window and is labeled Select in the upper right-hand corner. The next image in the Lightroom filmstrip appearing on the right is the Candidate.

    Select Candidate Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    Info Overlay

    If you hit the letter I on the keyboard, you will be able to see the date and time you shot the image in the left-hand corner of the image, as well as the pixel size. If you hit the “I” key again, it will display your camera settings and lens information. Hit it for the third time and the info overlay will disappear.

    Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    File date and size.

    Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    Camera metadata and shooting information.

    If you select only one photo and then switch to Compare View, Lightroom Classic CC uses that photo and either the last, previously selected photo, or an adjacent photo in the filmstrip.

    Compare View-Lightroom-DPS

    When you look at your filmstrip, the white diamond in the upper right-hand corner of the image is the Selected one, whereas the black diamond is the Candidate. The Selected image is brighter as seen here (thumbnail on the left).

    The difference between the Selected image and Candidate is that the Selected image will remain where it is on the left, while you can choose different photos in the Candidate window. You do this by clicking on the right or left arrow in the toolbar, or using the arrows on your keyboard.

    Compare View Icons

    Here is the toolbar in Lightroom’s Compare View.

    LR Toolbar - Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    Zoom

    The cool thing about Compare View is that you can zoom in on your image, which you cannot do in Survey View. You can access the zoom at the bottom left of the tool panel, as shown in the photo below.

    You can also use Cmd/Ctrl+ to zoom in, and Cmd/Ctrl- to zoom out. While you are zoomed in you can click on the image and drag it around to inspect it closer, to see if it’s in focus, or if there was dust on your sensor, etc.

    Link Focus

    The link focus icon looks like a lock. When you’re scrolling through a zoomed-in image, both of the images will move. If you click on the lock icon to “unlock” it, it will allow you to scroll around only on one of the photos.

    This is good if you’re comparing images with a slightly different composition. It’s a great tool when you want to check that all of the people in a group photo have their eyes open, for example.

    Compare View Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    Sync

    If you click to unlock the Link Focus tool, once you want to go back to viewing the same parts of your image at the same time, you simply need to click on the Sync button next to the zoom. This button controls the zoom sync ratio.

    sync-compare view-lightroom

    Swap

    Use Swap to change the image that shows up in the Select window. It swaps it out with the image that is currently in the Candidate window.

    Take care that when you are choosing photos in the filmstrip that you actually click on the photo itself, and not the frame. If you click on the grey part, not only are you choosing the photo as a Select but also you are choosing the photo next to it as the Candidate photo.

    You can also swap photos by clicking on the images individually in the filmstrip.

    Compare View In Lightroom Classic

    Make Select 

    When you click on this icon, it will move to the Select Window and use the next photo in the filmstrip as the Candidate. Swap simply reverses them.

    Compare View-Lightroom-DPS

    Select Previous/Next Photo

    Then you can click on the arrows to toggle through the images in the Candidate window.

    Compare View-LR-DPS

    Rating Images

    Photographers all have their preferred way of rating their photographs, whether that be by flagging them, adding a color label, or star rating. You can do this in Compare View.

    I personally find flagging is the easiest way. After I have finished going through my photos and am in the Develop Module, I will use star ratings to signify where I am in the editing process. For example, four stars need further editing, while five stars indicate that I have finished editing and exported them to the appropriate file.

    I use color labels to separate my personal photos from client work and stock images. Currently, this is what is working for me. You may have a very different system.

    Flag the photographs you are potentially interested in editing by hitting P, which marks it as a “pick”. To mark one as a reject (for later deletion), hit the X on your keyboard. If you keep your CAPS lock on, you can simply hit the arrow keys. You can later delete all of those rejected images in bulk.

    To Sum Up

    • Go to Grid View
    • Choose your Select Image
    • Choose C for Compare View
    • Use the arrows to cycle through the images. Inspect them as necessary, using the Zoom and Link Focus tools as necessary. 
    • Pick the images you want to keep by hitting P to flag them. Hit X for any images you want to get rid of. Rate them now if desired.

    Compare View is a bit more difficult to use than Survey View. However, you can also cycle through your images very quickly, once you get the hang of it.

    Take advantage of Lightroom’s powerful features to quickly filter through tons of your photos. You can immediately get rid of images that don’t work and you’ll never use, or images that are very similar but miss the mark. This will free up space and make your life a lot easier when it comes to searching for photos and going through Lightroom’s filmstrip.

    The post How to Find Your Best Photos Using Compare View In Lightroom Classic CC appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    LensRentals Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II teardown

    When Canon announced the EF 70-200mm F2.8L IS III USM earlier this summer, the company was pretty open about the fact that it was a minor upgrade to its predecessor, featuring tweaked coatings and a new finish, but the same optical-mechanical formula.

    Never ones to take a press release at face value (and since repairing lenses is a big part of their job) Roger Cicala and the team at LensRentals opened the lenses up to see whether Canon made any hidden changes. Not to spoil the surprise, but what they found… wasn’t a surprise.

    All images courtesy of LensRentals, and used with permission.

    LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    The new Mark III version of the 70-200mm F2.8 is indeed optically and mechanically identical to the older Mark II. In Roger’s words: “If you think there’s an optical or performance difference, please contact me about some Tennessee Beach-front property I have for sale.”

    But that doesn’t mean that they’re not optically and mechanically interesting lenses. According to Roger, the various versions of the Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 are possibly the most popular lenses that the company has in their loan stock, but because they’re so complex, internally “the 70-200mm f/2.8 is […] one of the ugliest bits of engineering in the Canon fleet”

    LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    If the containing tape in the last photograph didn’t give it away, the camera-side internals of the 70-200mm F2.8 II/III are something of a rats nest of fragile ribbon connectors, wires and PCBs. “Not much fun to work with” says Roger, and we believe him.

    LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    This shot shows the rear group (being lifted off) connected by one remaining ribbon to the image stabilization unit. The rear group acts as a single centering element, making it “a bit of a pain to adjust”, requiring repeated adjustment, reassembly, more adjustment, reassembly (again) and so on, until it’s correctly aligned.

    LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    Here’s the IS unit, removed from the main lens barrel. The tweezers indicate one of the four posts that stop the IS unit from moving around too much inside the lens. To avoid damage to the IS unit during travel or shipping, Roger recommends turning IS off when the lens is still on the camera. Otherwise the element won’t lock and these plastic posts are the only things stopping the lens from banging around freely inside the barrel.

    LensRentals tears down Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8 Mark III and Mark II

    Two layers of weather-sealing tape (which the LensRentals team tells us is pretty much the same material as this stuff) protects the 70-200mm’s front group, and helps prevent water ingress. This is how the LensRentals team gets access to the front element of the 70-200mm, which they have to do a lot, to replace scratched front elements, get rid of dust and make optical adjustments.

    So is the new Mark III version worth upgrading to? We’re not convinced, and neither are Roger and his team. Both are excellent lenses, and if you can find a Mark II for a good price, go for it.

    For more details – and a lot more images – read the full blog post at LensRentals.com.

    Read the full tear-down at LensRentals

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Toshiba releases new UHS-II EXCERIA Pro SD cards in 32GB, 64GB, 128GB and 256GB capacities

    Toshiba has unveiled its UHS-II EXCERIA PRO N502 SD cards, a new line of memory cards for the European market designed specifically for capturing 4K and 8K ultra-HD video.

    The UHS-II EXCERIA PRO SD cards, which will come in 32GB, 64GB, 128GB and 256GB capacities, have a minimum data transfer speed of 90MB/s, the requirements for the Video Speed Class 90 label they’ve been given (which vastly exceeds the U3 and Class 10 designations the cards also carry). The maximum read speed is 270MB/s, while the maximum write speed is 260MB/s.

    In addition to being x-ray proof, shockproof and waterproof, the EXCERIA PRO N502 SD cards can withstand temperatures ranging from -25ºC to 85ºC (-13ºF to 185ºF) without condensation. Each card includes a five-year warranty when purchased through an authorized retailer.

    The cards appear to be limited to the UK, Denmark, Finland, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and Turkey for the time being, with no listings currently available. Prices are unavailable at the time of writing this article. We will update accordingly if a product page goes live.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Seeing Red

    Okay, this should be an easy one for you. All you need to do to participate in this week’s photography challenge is come up with something red!

    Photo by Jacek Dylag on Unsplash

    Photo by Jacek Dylag on Unsplash

    That could mean finding a red subject, making your own (oil and water and dye) or using a selective color technique to remove all the other tints in the image except for red.

    Weekly Photography Challenge – The Color Red

    Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

    Share in the dPS Facebook Group

    You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

    The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Seeing Red appeared first on Digital Photography School.


    Digital Photography School

  • Rumors point to imminent Canon full-frame mirrorless system launch

    Over the past few days, rumor sites seem to have come to a consensus that Canon will launch a full-frame mirrorless camera in the very near future. Canon Rumors and Canon Watch point to a full-frame body called the EOS R, alongside a list of lenses published today by Japanese news and rumor site Nokishita. A list of ‘RF’ lenses rumored to be launched with the system include:

    • Canon RF 35mm F1.8 M IS
    • Canon RF 50mm F1.2L USM
    • Canon RF 28-70mm F2L USM
    • Canon RF 24-105mm F4L USM

    Also rumored to be announced soon:

    • Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 STM
    • Canon EF 400mm F2.8L IS III
    • Canon EF 600mm F4L IS III

    Nokishita also suggests that a battery-grip, radio-wave receiver and an adapter (M to R, or “mount” – they say it’s unclear which) will also be announced.

    Obviously, nothing is confirmed at this point and rumors are rumors. But we’d be surprised if Canon wasn’t prepping a full-frame mirrorless system amid competition from Sony and now Nikon. What’s your take on this list of lenses supposedly launching with the system? Let us know in the comments.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sony Cyber-shot HX95 and HX99 compact high-zoom 4K cameras announced in Europe

    For European customers, Sony has launched the Cyber-shot HX95 and HX99, a pair of slim, compact high-zoom cameras featuring the BIONZ X image processing engine, front-end LSI and 4K video recording. Both models are nearly identical, each sporting a 180-degree tiltable LCD, OLED Tru-Finder, and 1/2.3″ Exmor R 18MP CMOS sensor.

    Both the Cyber-shot HX95 and HX99 feature a ZEISS Vario-Sonnar T* 24-720mm High Magnification Zoom lens, Optical SteadShot image stabilization, Zoom Assist, and auto focus speeds as fast as 0.09 seconds. Both models support 4K video recording at 3840 x 2160.

    The Cyber-shot HX99 camera differs from the HX95 in a few ways, one of which is an OLED Tru-Finder with a control ring versus the HX95’s retractable viewfinder. The HX99 also features a control ring for customized camera functions, Touch Shutter, Touch Focus, and a focus point shifting function called Touch Pad.

    Both the HX99 (€520 / £450) and the HX95 (€500 / £430) will be available in Europe starting October 2018.

    Via: Sony

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Real World Test: Using the Sony A7R III with Canon Lenses

    Here’s a review from Julia Trotti who has been testing the Sony A7R III mirrorless camera alongside Canon lenses. With mirrorless technology coming to the forefront, but the number of native Sony lenses available being limited, using third-party lenses like this is not far from a necessity.

    Trotti has spent her entire 10-year photography career shooting with Canon, but recently got the Sony A7R III and wanted to integrate that camera into her workflow with the Canon glass she already owns. This is a similar boat to that which many photographers moving from DSLR to mirrorless may find themselves in. By using an adaptor (and making sure you keep the firmware for it up to date) you are able to use your DSLR glass on mirrorless bodies.

    ?

    While adaptors are great, Trotti does point out their shortcomings. She found some issues with focusing while testing the combination, meaning that her workflow was slowed down by having to wait for the lens to catch up with her (thanks to the adaptor).

    Trotti loves the Sony A7R III, as well as her Canon glass, but advises that you should be aware of the limitations of the adaptation when it comes to shooting situations where you might only have one chance to get it right, such as weddings.

    Check out the full video above to see all of her thoughts and some example photos from the shoot.

    The post Real World Test: Using the Sony A7R III with Canon Lenses appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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