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Canon quietly released firmware update for the EOS R

13 Feb

It appears Canon has managed to sneak one past us here at DPReview with the quiet release of firmware version 1.1.0 for its Canon EOS R full-frame mirrorless camera on January 25th, 2019.

The first firmware update for its first full-frame Mirrorless Camera, firmware version 1.1.0 is a rather insignificant one with only a few bug fixes and minor tweaks and changes.

The only addition in firmware version 1.1.0 is the inclusion of silent shutter mode when using continuous shooting. Aside from that, the firmware simply corrects the following issues seen in version 1.0.0:

  • Corrects a phenomenon in which an error may occur if there is a large number of files in a specific format on the memory card.
  • Corrects a phenomenon in which an error may occur when silent shutter has been enabled.
  • Corrects a phenomenon in which horizontal linear noise may occur when using specific lenses together with certain recording image quality settings.
  • Corrects a phenomenon in which the information displayed in the viewfinder may become abnormal.

The firmware is available to download here. Once downloaded, the ZIP file includes the firmware file, as well as a folder with installation instructions in English, French, Japanese, Spanish and Chinese.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Best Vlogging Cameras for 2019

13 Feb

The post Best Vlogging Cameras for 2019 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

What’s the best vlogging camera for 2019? That’s a tough question to answer given the wide variety of cameras on the market. In this article, I’ll talk about traditional vlogging camera rigs. I’ll also introduce three non-traditional cameras that also serve as modern vlogging options. Which is the best for you? Read on for some ideas, and let me know your thoughts in the comments below!

best vlogging camera

Traditional vlogging cameras

Before we go any further, let’s define vlogging as a video blog. The traditional way to film a vlog is to point the camera at oneself, while also inserting B-roll (supplemental footage). Thus, most modern vloggers need a camera that allows them to film themselves, and also gather alternative shots.

Popular vloggers such as Casey Neistat and Peter McKinnon use traditional vlogging tools: a DSLR camera with a wide angle lens and shotgun mic, all attached to a Gorilla Pod. This is a tried and true vlogging rig, but it can also be modernized or made simpler by switching out the camera. Mirrorless cameras such as the Panasonic GH5 and Sony a6400 offer a slightly smaller footprint while also giving you a flip screen to monitor yourself. Or you can opt for even smaller point and shoot cameras such as the ever-popular Canon G7X or Sony RX100.

Modern vlogging cameras

While the traditional vlogging cameras mentioned above are still ubiquitous among vloggers, there are newer, more modern cameras worth considering. Here are three fairly new cameras that might fit the role as best vlogging camera of 2019.

GoPro Hero 7 Black Review

Contender #1: GoPro Hero 7 Black

GoPros are traditionally known as action cameras. However, many people use GoPros for everyday usage, including vlogging. This actually makes a lot of sense given GoPro’s tiny footprint, and its wide-angle lens that is perfect for capturing the first-person perspective. The brand new GoPro Hero 7 Black also adds several new features that work in a vlogger’s favor.

HyperSmooth and Timewarp

First, HyperSmooth. GoPro claims gimbal-like stabilization when HyperSmooth is in use, and it’s hard to argue. When shooting in HyperSmooth, bumpy footage is nearly completely eliminated. This means you can walk, run, drive, or perform just about any movement and get buttery smooth video. You can also shoot at up to 4K 60 frames-per-second with HyperSmooth enabled. Second, Timewarp. This is basically a timelapse video with HyperSmooth applied, resulting in a stabilized moving timelapse. It’s perfect for shooting B-roll and transitional scenes for a vlog or video.

GoPro Hero 7 Black Review

Vastly Improved Sound

GoPros have always had atrocious sound quality. For a long time, this was due to the fact that GoPros had to be put into a plastic cage to become waterproof. All of this changed with the Hero 5, which was the first GoPro camera to be waterproof without the cage. The Hero 7 Black is also waterproof without a cage, and it adds much-improved sound. There are now 3 microphones dispersed throughout the camera, and they do a pretty good job at picking up voices. The Hero 7 Black is still without a built-in microphone jack, but if you really need one, GoPro sells a (rather ridiculous and expensive) mic jack adapter.

Contender #2: DJI Osmo Pocket

Brand new to the camera world is the DJI Osmo Pocket. Made by the same manufacturers of DJI drones, the Osmo Pocket employs nearly the same camera found on the Mavic Pro drone. The camera has just a 1/2.3-inch sensor with a f/2.0 aperture. It can shoot at up to 4K/60fps at 100 Mbps. It can even shoot 12-megapixel photos. Best of all, the camera comes mounted on a 3-axis gimbal so that you can record buttery smooth footage.

There are a host of other features worth mentioning about the Osmo Pocket. But two features in particular that relate to vlogging are FPV and Active Track. FPV allows you to quickly reorient the camera to face yourself, while Active Track is intelligent in-camera tracking. Both of these features are incredibly handy for vlogging. And just in case the Osmo Pocket screen is too small for you, you can also plug in your phone for a much bigger touchscreen interface.

best vlogging camera DJI Osmo Pocket

Two Downsides

There are two major downsides to the Osmo Pocket as they relate to vlogging. The first is that the built-in sound quality is bad. No matter what side of the camera you’re on, it doesn’t pick up voices very well, especially if you’re filming in a noisy area. Currently, there are also no adapters or ways to install a microphone to enhance the sound. The second downside is the Osmo Pocket’s fixed 24mm camera lens. While 24mm is great for taking more cinematic footage without distortion, it’s not the best focal length for vlogging. You have to hold your arm out pretty far to get yourself in the frame, and even further if you have a buddy.

Contender #3: Modern Smartphone

A third camera to consider using to vlog is any modern day smartphone. Phones today are jam-packed with impressive camera specs with both front and rear-facing cameras. Many phones such as flagship Apple and Samsung phones also have in-camera stabilization, and the ability to shoot 4K video. They also have superior built-in sound since they are still phones, after all. You can also purchase a few accessories to take your smartphone photography and videography a step further. Investing in a smartphone gimbal gives you added stability, while Moment lenses increase image sharpness and offer wider angles.

The only real downside to using your phone to vlog is that you can’t use your phone to do other tasks while filming. Smartphone videos can also take up tremendous space on your phone, eating into your storage.

best moment lens for smartphone review

In Conclusion

So what is the best vlogging camera? It comes down to your shooting preferences. Personally, I find myself oscillating between the GoPro Hero 7 Black and my Samsung Galaxy S8 with a fisheye Moment Lens. These two cameras are so compact and easy to take anywhere, and they have been great for spontaneous vlogging.

If you’re looking for the best vlogging camera in 2019 and beyond, the good news is that you have lots of options. You can opt for tried and true DSLR or point-and-shoot rigs. Or you can look at modern, super compact options such as the GoPro Hero 7 Black or DJI Osmo Pocket. Or you can use the camera you have on you – a modern-day smartphone – and buy a few extra accessories to make your phone a pretty awesome vlogging rig. The choice is yours!

 

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You may also find this articles helpful:

Essential Tools for Making Videos on Your Mirrorless Camera

Equipment List for Making Better Smartphone Videos

The post Best Vlogging Cameras for 2019 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


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Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade?

12 Feb

The post Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

Screenshot of Capture One

Capture One have recently released version 12 of their image editing software. Capture One have made a name for their high quality imaging software that offers professional users the best control of their images. But does version 12 deliver this? And, more importantly, is it worth upgrading to from version 11?

What’s new?

Capture one say “Capture One 12 delivers better, faster, and more creative control. New features includes advanced masking functionality, an even more efficient and intuitive user experience, plug-in compatibility, and much more”

In any software, a speed increase is always welcome. In use, Capture One 12 is slightly quicker on my machine, which is nice. Is it enough on it’s own to make me upgrade? Probably not. However, there are lots of other features that make it much more appealing. These include an updated interface, new masking options, intelligent adjustments copying and much more. Let’s look at each of the updated features in more detail.

New updated interface

The menu system in Capture One Pro 12 is more customizable than before. The new icons have been upgraded, which does make it look fresh. I like the new design, but this is nothing to get excited about. There is a redesigned keyboard shortcuts panel though, which is useful for those who like to create their own. I’m not someone who delves deep into creating my own shortcuts, but I do appreciate the new design. If you are so inclined, you have the option to create more than 500 customizable commands.

C1 Interface

The updated interface. Yes, it is a little nicer, but not a massive difference. V12 is on the left.

New masking options

New masking options are something to get excited about. The Luminosity masking allows you to create a mask based on the Luma Range of the file. This makes it really simple to create a mask to bring back only the darkest of shadows or add clarity to the lightest part of the image. It is a straightforward system that works well in practice.

Linear gradient masks have also been transformed to give more precise control, which many of us will really find useful. The addition of Radial Gradient Masks is another handy option for those who like to create custom vignettes on their images.

Screenshot of luminosity mask in Capture One

Luminosity masks are a great time saver and probably my favourite new feature in Capture One 12

Intelligent adjustments copying

I love this update. I use Capture One for about 80% of my editing. This includes minor skin retouching and cropping, etc. It used to be that when I copied the adjustments and pasted across to a batch of images, I then had to go in and undo the crop and remove the retouching on each image. Now, the copy-paste tool ignores options such as crop and spot healing by default, but if you want to add them, it is simple to do so. A great timesaver and a feature I love.

Screenshot of intelligent copy

A small thing, but a massive timesaver. Copy/paste adjustments without adding the crop is huge for my workflow. What about yours?

Plugins

Plugins are the one feature that I love from Lightroom. Finally, Capture One is allowing plug-ins to work with their system. With this being new the range is limited, but obviously, this will increase over time. A great time saver, I can’t wait to see the potential of this increase going forward.

Plugin Screenshot for Capture One

At launch the plugins are limited, but this will grow and become a great time saver for many users.

Fuji Film simulations

I don’t currently shoot Fuji (I do lust over their Medium Format Cameras) but for those that do, Capture One have now developed (alongside FujiFilm) the different Film simulations available in their cameras. This means you can add the FujiFilm preset onto your images and use this as a starting point in your editing. Now if only I can get DPS to fund the rental of a a Medium Format Fuji, I can do an in depth test for you all (editor’s note: I wouldn’t mind one myself). Please comment below to help me out. In all seriousness though, this is awesome for all you Fuji Owners.

Mac OSX Mojave support

As a Mac user, this is my biggest pet peeve with Capture One. With the release of version 12, support for version 11 has now ended. This means that if you want to use Capture One with OsX Mojave, you need to upgrade to version 12. Obviously if you pay monthly this isn’t a big problem, but if you own the software outright, the upgrade price of £150 (US$ 195) feels a little steep just to use the latest version of an OS.

Whilst I understand it from a business point of view, it does feel like, as a Mac user, you are forced to upgrade every year. I love that you can purchase Capture One outright, but it does feel like they are slowly creeping towards the subscription model like everybody else. 

Should I upgrade?

The million dollar question. I have upgraded. The plugin support for JPEG mini and intelligent copy paste features will save me enough time to easily justify it. The added benefits of better masking is also great for the way I work. However, it is not that simple for a lot of people. If you are PC based, you may want to skip this version unless, like me, there are features that will help your workflow. However, if you use a Mac, this is more of a do you want to upgrade to Mojave. If the answer is yes, then you really do need to upgrade. There are many reports of version 11 working fine in Mojave, but as a professional, I cannot risk it. Capture One have also ceased their discount codes, which again seems to be a little harsh. You used to be able to easily find a 10% voucher, but since the end of 2018, Capture One seem to have cut them. Obviously I am not privy to why, but I am sure they have their reasons. 

Should I move from Lightroom?

If you are thinking of moving from Lightroom, I would say give it a go. Capture One have a generous 30 day trial of the software, which is time to get to grips with it and see what it can do. Give it a try, you have nothing to lose.

Do you use Capture One? If so, share your thoughts below.

The post Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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Kamlan announces new 7.5mm F3.2 fisheye lens for Micro Four Thirds systems

12 Feb

Chinese optical manufacturer Kamlan Optical has announced its next lens will be a 7.5mm F3.2 fisheye for the Micro Four Thirds system. The lens joins an existing line-up of manual focus primes for APS-C and MFT systems, and will be shown at the CP+ show later this month.

The FS 7.5mm f/3.2 will provide an angle of view of 160° with a construction that consists of seven elements in six groups. It will focus as close as 10cm and will have a minimum aperture of F16. The manufacturer says the lens will measure 48x58mm, will weigh 250g and it will be impossible to mount a filter in the conventional way because of the shape of the built-in hood.

According to DC Watch, the price in Japan will be about 25,000 yen, which is approximately $ 230. For more information see the Kalman website

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Glyph launches new Atom NVMe SSD and Thunderbolt 3 dock with dual 4K display support

12 Feb

Glyph Production Technology has introduced its new Thunderbolt 3 Dock and Atom NVMe SSD products, enabling graphics professionals to expand the number of ports and storage available on their MacBook Pro or any other computer with Thunderbolt 3 support.

The new Glyph Thunderbolt 3 dock connects to a laptop via its USB-C Thunderbolt 3 port, enabling the user to both charge their device and transmit data using a single cable. The dock features an SD UHS-II card slot, a pair of USB 3.0 ports, as well as one USB-C 3.1 Gen2 port.

The model also offers separate audio jacks for microphone out and audio out, Gigabit Ethernet connectivity, and support for either one 5K display at 60Hz or two 4K displays at 60Hz. Users can also upgrade an NVMe SSD drive in a dedicated slot; the dock supports read and write speeds up to 1500MB/s.

Joining the dock is Glyph’s new Atom Pro NVMe SSD, a drive offered in capacities up to 2TB with read speeds up to 2800MB/s and write speeds up to 2400MB/s. According to Glyph, its new SSD is designed to handle demanding workflows, including projects involving 4K/8K video and VR. The drive’s case is MIL-Standard 810F rated to withstand exposure to sand, dust, shock, and vibration.

Glyph offers its products through a number of online retailers, including Filmtools, B&H Photo, and Adorama. The Thunderbolt 3 dock is available with 500GB – 2TB capacities starting at $ 299.95 USD, and the NVMe SSD is available in 1TB-2TB capacities starting at $ 499.95 USD.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Leica releases M10-P ‘ASC 100 Edition,’ a still camera for cinematographers

12 Feb

Leica has released a limited edition model of its M10-P digital rangefinder to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the American Society of Cinematographers. In February 2019, the ASC will be presenting its awards for the 33rd time which Leica says is ‘an ideal occasion to present an exclusive tool for filmmakers: the Leica M10-P ASC 100 Edition.’

Leica has been linked to the world of cinematography since its very early days when Oskar Barnack took 35mm motion picture film strips to use them in still cameras. He also used the original Leica camera to test exposure settings for cinema cameras with a still camera.

According to the company ‘the Leica M10-P “ASC 100 Edition continues Barnack’s ingenious idea and translates it into modern times,’ making it the ‘ideal camera to recreate the authentic look of the cinema in still pictures.’

The limited edition set comes with a Leica M10-P body and a Summicron-M 35 f/2 ASPH lens. The camera includes two cinema-look software modes which have been developed in collaboration with ‘some of the world’s most influential cinematographers and members of the ASC.’ The ASC Cine Classic mode simulates the analog 35 mm motion-picture film look while the ASC Contemporary mode creates a contemporary digital movie look.

In addition the M10-P ASC 100 Edition lets users select from different aspect ratios used in cinematography. Aspect ratios are visible as a bright-line frame in Live View mode.

With the camera and lens buyers of the set receive a Visoflex electronic viewfinder and a Leica M-PL-Mount which allows for the use for most PL mount cine lenses with the camera. This means cinematographers can view and test scenes with a cine lens before motion picture shooting begins.

As one would expect, the limited edition camera also features a unique design, with black engravings on black chrome surfaces and leathering which is similar to the Leica SL. With its gold-colored anodized finish the design of the lens was inspired by the ‘Ur-Leica’ brass look. The final touch is the ASC logo on the top plate.

The Leica M10-P ‘ASC 100 Edition’ will be available beginning autumn 2019. No pricing information has been released yet but expect it to be expensive. More information is available on the Leica website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Make Amazing Photomontages. Part 3: Printing and Constructing Photomontages

11 Feb

The post How To Make Amazing Photomontages. Part 3: Printing and Constructing Photomontages appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

This is the third article in a series of three (part one, part two) with guidelines on how to make amazing photomontages in which you’ll learn about printing and constructing photomontages.

You may be quite content with your photomontage you see on your monitor. But there’s something special about getting all the images printed out and pasting them onto a board. Finishing a montage like this is even more fulfilling.

You can, of course, have your montage printed out as a regular photo, on a single piece of paper. However, I prefer getting individual prints made of each layer, positioning them and sticking them down.

Ducati How To Make Amazing Photomontages

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Part 3: Printing and Constructing Photomontages

1. Have your photos printed

Importing the photos using the method I outlined in Part two of this series will mean each of your layers has retained the original file name. Now it’s time to go back to the folders with the photos you resized and collect up all of them that made it into your final composition.

Copy them into a new folder and have them printed.

2. Buy a board

You’ll need a sturdy piece of board to mount your photos on. I prefer to use foam core board as it’s strong but lightweight. It also does not warp. If you use cardboard it can buckle easily once you get many layers of photos stuck down.

Whatever you choose to use, make sure that it will be big enough to compile all your photos on.

Beauty Mirror How To Make Amazing Photomontages

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

3. Prepare to adhere your photos

For many years I have used double-sided adhesive paper. It’s like a huge roll of double-sided tape. This method is the cleanest and easiest that I know of.

Pasting the photos up with glue is possible, but you need to be extremely careful you don’t get glue places you don’t want it.

Before I begin sticking the prints down, I use a black marker pen to blacken the edges of each print. White edges don’t look great when the photos are stuck down.

Stick it How To Make Amazing Photomontages

Photo by: Pansa Landwer-Johan

4. Lay out your prints

Open your montage file on your computer and turn off all the layers except the bottom one. Find the print of this image and position it on your board. Turn on the next layer and repeat the process of laying out your photos.

Prints will get knocked and move around during this process. Don’t be concerned, because as the montage takes shape the positions of prints will change. You may begin to see different relationships between the prints you may not have noticed on your computer monitor.

You can use masking tape to help keep the prints in position. Take care when you remove the tape that it does not damage your print.

I will often use post-it notes stuck alongside the photos. This helps me reposition them when they do get bumped.

Remain relaxed and fluid during this part of the process. Don’t stress if you cannot manage to line all the photos up as precisely as you lined up the layers in Photoshop.

Take a few steps back, or get up above the table you are working on. This will help you see the overall look of your composition. Do this a few times during your layout stage.

Layout How To Make Amazing Photomontages

Photo by: Pansa Landwer-Johan

5. Stick it all down

You can spend forever tweaking the positioning of the prints, but eventually, you will want to stick them all down.

Start with a corner there’s a print with no others overlapping it. Position it carefully in relation to the edge of the board and stick it down.

Begin to work your way from this point, sticking down only prints that do not overlap above any other print. Whenever a print has another layer underneath, the bottom one must be stuck down first.

If you make a mistake, just consider alternatives to remedy the situation. You might have to get another print or two made so you can cover up the problem area. Other times you will be able to rearrange the way you stick the prints down and still make it look good.

Work slowly and carefully, trying as much as possible not to let the prints move around. Any fast movement or clumsiness at this stage can mean you have to start over and lay it all out again.

Fixed How To Make Amazing Photomontages

Photo by: Pansa Landwer-Johan

Conclusion

Once your photomontage is all adhered, you will notice a big difference. It’s much more dimensional than it appears on your computer monitor or as it would be printed on a single sheet of paper.

Taking your time and working carefully, yet remaining flexible, as you stick your prints down, will make it a more enjoyable process.

The overlapping layers and any unconformities that happen during paste-up give a montage some depth and texture. These used to bother me until I realized they actually add to the look and feel of these artworks.

Here’s another short video of me working on a montage for my ‘Fractured Dimensions’ exhibition in 2014.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this short series on photomontages and I encourage you to experiment with the process yourself. Let us know how you get on in the comments below, and don’t forget to share your montages with us too.

Other articles in this series:

How to Make Amazing Photomontages. Part 1: Taking Your Photos

How To Make Amazing Photomontages. Part 2: Compiling Photomontage Photos

 

The post How To Make Amazing Photomontages. Part 3: Printing and Constructing Photomontages appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Datacolor launches SpyderX, its fastest and most accurate color calibration tool to date

11 Feb

Color management solutions company Datacolor has announced SpyderX, its fastest and easiest to use monitor color calibration tool to date.

The new tool has been redesigned from the ground up with a new color engine ‘that provides significantly increased color accuracy and low light capabilities,’ according to Datacolor.

One of the standout improvements is the decrease in time it takes to calibrate a monitor or projector. Compared to the five minutes previous Datacolor tools required to calibrate a device, the new SpyderX tool takes less than two minutes once the appropriate software is downloaded.

The redesigned device is also more precise than ever with improved levels of color accuracy and shadow detail recognition.

The SpyderX is available in two varieties: Spyder Pro, which ‘is designed for serious photographers and designers seeking a fast and easy-to-use monitor calibration solution’ and Spyder Elite, which ‘takes it one step further with more advanced settings for professional photographers and videographers who want ultimate control of their color workflow.‘ SpyderX devices are available for $ 169.99 and $ 269.99, respectively, at Datacolor’s online store and authorized Datacolor retailers.

Press release:

Datacolor debuts SpyderX, a ground-breaking color calibration solution for monitors.

Lawrenceville, New Jersey, USA, February 11, 2019 – Datacolor®, a global leader in color management solutions, has launched SpyderX, its fastest, most accurate and easiest to use color calibration tool for monitors. The development of SpyderX is testament to Datacolor’s commitment in advancing color management solutions for photographers, videographers and creative specialists worldwide.

SpyderX uses a fully redesigned color engine that provides significantly increased color accuracy and low light capabilities, giving photographers the confidence needed to achieve their creative vision.

SpyderX enhanced features include:

  • Blazing Speed – Taking less than two minutes to calibrate a screen, the SpyderX is several times faster than previous models, with calibration happening so fast it easily becomes part of the workflow.
  • Highest Accuracy – Providing a significantly higher level of color accuracy and shadow detail on a wide range of monitors.
  • Ease of Use – Simple and intuitive single-click calibration software, as well as advanced options.

Susan Bunting, director of marketing at Datacolor, said: “We know photography is a labor of love, and a lot goes into taking every shot. That’s why we’ve redesigned SpyderX from the ground up, ensuring you can trust the color on your screen while making the whole process of calibration as intuitive and quick as possible.”

Now available in two versions, the SpyderX Pro ($ 169.99) is designed for serious photographers and designers seeking a fast and easy-to-use monitor calibration solution. The SpyderX Elite ($ 269.99) takes it one step further with more advanced settings for professional photographers and videographers who want ultimate control of their color workflow.

Purchase SpyderX at spyderx.datacolor.com, Amazon or with authorized resellers.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX medium-format

11 Feb

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Announced back at Photokina in September 2018, Fujifilm’s next-generation GFX medium-format camera is getting closer to becoming reality. Sporting a 100MP BSI CMOS sensor and built-in image stabilization, the GFX 100 represents a significant evolution of the GFX 50S, which debuted the basic body shape and control philosophy of Fujifilm’s current medium-format lineup.

We’re at the Gulf Photo Pro event in Dubai, where Fujifilm gave us a sneak peek at the first working prototype of the upcoming camera, to see for ourselves how it’s shaping up. Click through for a closer look.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

This is an early prototype, with many key features in-place and working, but not all. This particular camera is literally ‘unfinished’ in another sense, because it’s still waiting for its final cladding. The current smooth rubber covering will be replaced by a textured finish, similar to that used on the GFX 50S.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

At a casual glance, the GFX 100 looks a lot like a GFX 50S with a lighter gray finish and battery grip attached, and from an ergonomic point of view that’s not too far off being accurate, in many respects. The ‘grip’ is integral to the camera, providing more space inside the body for large components like the mechanical shutter and IBIS unit, which has to stabilize a sensor 1.7X larger than full-frame (43.8mm x 32.9mm).

With the relatively lightweight GF 45mm F2.8 attached, the GFX 100 feels more like a professional full-frame DSLR than a medium-format mirrorless camera. Exact dimensions and final weight are still secret, but my sense from handling the GFX 100 with the 45mm F2.8 is that it has about the same kind of heft as something like a Nikon D5 or Canon EOS-1DX II with a fast prime attached.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

From the top, the GFX 100 starts looking a lot less like the GFX 50S that went before it. It’s blockier and a little more industrial-looking for a start, and lacks the retro-style dials that are a characteristic of previous GF and X-series cameras.

A large high-contrast information panel dominates the upper right of the top-plate, while a large 3-position dial on the left is used to switch the camera between movie, stills and multiple exposure modes. The ‘drive’ button at its center allows you to determine your desired frame-rate, in combination with the camera’s control dials.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

The top screen on this prototype is not fully activated, but it will show a comprehensive status display of major exposure parameters, including exposure compensation. It is hoped that in this way, users of the new camera won’t miss the large shutter speed and ISO dials of its predecessor too badly.

A major and very welcome change in the GFX 100 compared to the earlier 50S is the electronic viewfinder. At Fujifilm’s request I have to be a little vague about the exact specifications of the finder, but I can tell you that in terms of clarity and resolution it compares well to the excellent EVF in the X-H1, and is free from the pixelation and noticeable lag which affected the finder of the 50S, especially when autofocus was initiated.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Just like the GFX 50S, the viewfinder unit is removable, and will be interchangeable with the viewfinder from the earlier camera. However, GFX 50S users hoping to save some money might be disappointed – when the GFX 50S finder is attached to the GFX 100, they won’t get the benefit of the greatly improved resolution of the newer EVF.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

From the rear, more differences compared to the GFX 50S are obvious. The focus mode dial has been swapped from the left to the right of the viewfinder, playback has been relocated to the lower right of the screen, and the 4-way controller of the older camera has been deleted entirely.

As well as the larger top-mounted display there’s an all-new OLED ribbon display on the back, below the main LCD. Not activated in this prototype, the intention is that this display will serve to show the status of key camera settings. I was hoping it might be touch sensitive, but apparently not.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

The rear LCD assembly isn’t quite flush with the rest of the rear controls but it sticks out a lot less than the original GFX, partly because of the relocation of the large battery to below the screen, inside the grip.

Like the GFX 50S, the main rear display is tilting and touch-sensitive, which is good because also like the 50S, the small rear joystick (which is duplicated in the GFX 100) is rather small and recessed. Setting AF point by touch might be a little easier in some situations, especially when the camera is tripod mounted.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Here’s a closer look at the duplicated controls on the integrated vertical grip. While the main shutter dial has an on/off switch collar, the same control on the secondary shutter release serves to lock/unlock the button.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Inside the ‘grip’ is a tray which accepts two of the same NP-T125 batteries first introduced in the GFX 50S. Battery life figures have yet to be confirmed, but I’m told that Fujifilm is aiming for around the same rating as the older camera, i.e., ~400 shots (CIPA) per single charge, which would double presumably to ~800 shots when both batteries are loaded into the GFX 100.

While two batteries will double the battery life, the GFX 100 will work perfectly happily with only one.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Two batteries, and two card slots, but somewhat surprisingly, both are SD. Despite its high pixel count Fujifilm has opted not to include support for the next-generation XQD/CFexpress media in the GFX 100, but apparently this is being discussed for future products in the GFX lineup.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

I/O ports are as expected, with microphone and headphone jacks, plus HDMI and USB, courtesy of a USB 3.0 Type C port. A traditional PC socket is positioned on the side of the camera, under a threaded cap (just visible here between the two open port covers.

While unconfirmed, the lightening bolt symbol on the port door suggests that it will be possible to charge the GFX 100 over USB. I suspect that to operate the camera under remote power, the 15V DC IN socket will need to come into play.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

At the heart of the GFX 100 is a newly developed 100MP BSI CMOS sensor, which at a component level we understand is similar to the sensor used in the X-T3 . In addition to extra pixels, the new sensor also incorporates phase-detection AF pixels (details still TBD) and support for 4K/30, 10bit, 4:2:0 video internally and 10bit 4:2:2 externally via HDMI. Perhaps most importantly, from the perspective of many photographers is in-camera stabilization – a first for medium format.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

While the exact details of expected performance are still secret, a quick hotel conference room handheld shooting test with the GF 45mm F2.8 delivered plenty of sharp images at 1/20sec and a couple of acceptably sharp shots at shutter speeds as low as 1/6sec. Rest assured that as soon as we get our hands on a final camera, this is something we really want to test.

In theory, we’re told that the GFX 100 could support sensor-shift features in future, such as higher-resolution capture. While such modes probably won’t make it into the initial shipping product, there’s a chance that extra features could be added via firmware.

EXCLUSIVE: Hands-on with Fujifilm 100MP GFX

Something else we really want to test is the GFX 100’s autofocus performance. In another highly unscientific hotel conference room test, AF speed appears very good, and certainly greatly improved over the original GFX 50S. This is certainly due in part to the new phase-detection autofocus system, and also the substantially more powerful on-board processor of the higher-resolution camera. Also, compared to the ‘hair trigger’ of some current Fujifilm cameras, the shutter button response on this prototype GFX 100 has a little more travel, and feels similar in responsiveness to a Nikon or Canon DSLR.

Pictured here is Makoto Oishi, who is in charge of the GFX 100’s development. His team still has a lot of work still to do, but he is confident that the camera will be available on-time, in late spring or early summer. Price is still to be confirmed, but is expected to be in the region of $ 10,000.

What do you think? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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You Are Your Own Best Teacher – Learning From Your Photography Mistakes

11 Feb

The post You Are Your Own Best Teacher – Learning From Your Photography Mistakes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

Personal experience is the very best teacher. Reading tutorials, studying the professionals, and mastering the fundamentals will certainly incrementally improve your photographic skills, but you’ll grow exponentially when learning from your photography mistakes. This is most true when you study your mistakes. You only learn when you make a mistake and know why.

James Baldwin

Learning from your photography mistakes

Conversely, if you don’t seriously study the shots that you captured from each outing (both good and bad), you’ll be more prone to make those mistakes again and again and never clearly understand why. Discovering how camera settings and scene lighting produced specific results can give you real insights that even a private tutor may not deliver. You are your own best teacher because this kind of lesson is concentrated on you alone and concerns you alone. You aren’t competing with anybody else, nor are you being judged by anyone else.

Metadata and EXIF Information

Metadata is the techno-term for the settings your camera uses to capture digital pictures; which includes File Properties and Exif (camera capture data). Every camera collects facts that describe just about everything your camera knows about the pictures it takes.

Metadata and Exif information accompanies every image captured and is disclosed by a variety of different software applications, and it is exhaustively disclosed in Adobe’s Bridge software. The illustrated examples in this article have were captured from Bridge. While Lightroom delivers a small subset of this information, Bridge lists virtually everything and acts as a “bridge” (clever name) between the files and other Adobe software to catalog and process the images.

1 - Learning from your photography mistakes

Metadata reveals that this photo was set up in Auto mode with AWB (Auto White Balance) and Matrix metering which opened the Aperture to 3.5, evenly exposing the scene and allowing the camera to correctly balance the colors based on the neutral gray elements in the scene.

2 - Learning from your photography mistakes

This shot illustrates the danger of setting the camera for full Manual operation but incorrectly selecting Tungsten lighting as the light source which biases the colors toward the cooler (blue) side of the spectrum. Tungsten setting expects the yellow cast of tungsten lights, however, the outdoor lighting was shaded sunlight. The Aperture was set manually to f/22 which did not allow enough light to expose the darkened scene.

Discover what works and what doesn’t

Get hard on yourself and discover what works and what doesn’t. Then try to repeat the results you received from your best shots. If you make this exercise a habit, and seriously analyze why some shots worked, and others didn’t, you’ll improve with every outing. Learn to appreciate the “keepers” but don’t view the rejects as failures… they are merely lessons from which to learn.

Note the difference that the time of day makes and the angles (and severity) of the shadows produced during different hours of the day. Take notes on why some shots are 5-star picks, and some others are rejects. Become a student of your work and watch your learning curve shorten.

This metadata also teaches you the limitations and restrictions of specific settings. Sometimes processes that fail are caused by equipment failure rather than judgment error. Here’s an example of the camera being set up for a flash image but encountering an entirely different lighting condition when the flash failed to fire. The ripple effect of a flash misfire caused a massive failure in the camera’s exposure, focus, and color.

3 - Learning from your photography mistakes

The metadata reveals that this image was captured correctly. All processes functioned as expected, resulting in a color-correct, well-exposed picture.

4 - Learning from your photography mistakes

The metadata in this file reveals why the image is overexposed, grossly discolored, and blurry. While the flash was instructed to fire, it failed (probably because the flash was fully charged and ready to fire). This resulted in an image that the camera’s settings (Aperture Priority and Auto exposure) forced the camera to compensate the lack of flash lighting with extremely slow shutter speed. The yellow cast was the result of tungsten lighting in the room while the image sensor’s color balance expected daylight (flash temperature) settings.

Develop a routine

Develop a routine and a personal discipline that forces you to shoot during the same time of day for a full week. Note that I said “force,” rather than try. Personal discipline is a wonderful trait and one that can improve your photographic skills very quickly. Who knows, it might actually affect other areas of your life that need improvement too.

If you only shoot occasionally, you’ll develop skills at a slower pace. Moreover, if you only critically review your work occasionally, you’ll learn at a snail’s pace. Make the review process a regular exercise, and it becomes habit… a good one. I once had a professor who stated in almost every class, “repetition is the exercise of your mental muscle.” The advice sounded strange back then, but it makes perfect sense now.

Every session you shoot produces winners and losers. Make it a habit to examine all metadata from your session to deduce what went right and what didn’t. More importantly, you’ll learn why. Take ownership of your mistakes, especially errors in judgment. You only grow when you recognize a mistake and work to overcome it. While you’ll always be very proud of the great shots you take, you’ll learn more from the shots that didn’t work!

5 - Learning from your photography mistakes

The metering used in this shot was Pattern or Matrix, which averages light readings from the entire frame to influence the shutter speed. The average exposure was based on middle-tone (18%) gray. The sunlight reflecting from the sand on the ground and the black feathers in the bird’s wings established the outer parameters of the exposure, producing an unacceptably dark overall exposure. Had I chosen Spot metering, the picture would have considered only the tones in the middle of the frame, thus lightening the overall exposure.

More often than not, this examination shows you how your camera reacts to specific lighting in a scene. It sometimes produces profound shifts in exposure from small differences in the framing of a scene. Weird but true. While cameras are thought to have “intelligence,” in reality they have no intelligence or no judgment capabilities of their own. They’re merely algorithms that affect settings based on the lighting observed in the scene.

6 - Learning from your photography mistakes

The camera angle was shifted to reduce the amount of sunlight reflection in the frame which, in turn, changed the lighting ratio and lightened the resulting exposure. Reviewing this result taught me to carefully evaluate a scene for content before choosing a metering system.

There are many ways to learn

There are many ways to learn. Taking courses online, reading tutorials and technique books, and tips and tricks columns all teach us a little something more. Years ago I decided to learn how to play the game of golf. After shooting some very embarrassing and humbling rounds, I realized that I desperately needed help. I bought many golf magazines and tried to mimic the stance and swings pictured in the exercises. I watched a large number of video tutorials and listened to advise from everybody, but my game remained poor.

Nothing improved and I only became discouraged. It was when I practiced the disciplines on a regular basis and took serious notes on what worked and why that my game began to improve. I continued to fail simply because I didn’t analyze (and learn from) my mistakes. You learn a lot when you expose yourself to the valuable experience of others, but you’ll only truly grow in your photography skills after you study your own results. So here’s an exercise:

An exercise to help you learn

Open any of the excellent software packages that display both the Metadata (aperture, metering type, ISO, color mode, and shutter speed) and Camera Data, or Exif information (exposure mode, white balance, focal length, lens used, light source, flash behavior, etc.) from both RAW and formatted photos.

Set the View in the software so that you can observe the images in browser or catalog mode, allowing you to see thumbnail views of the files in each session. Also, set the window to display the settings for each image as you step from one image to another.

Whether you shoot in Manual, Aperture or Shutter priority, or even Auto mode, the software lists the individual camera settings exhaustively for each image.

Next: note the variations in lighting between the images and recognize what changes in the camera settings cause the small shifts in the results. Each variation gets linked to one or more of the camera settings; sometimes just a small shift in ISO.

If you allow Auto to control any aspect of your shots, the camera makes subtle changes to shutter speed, ISO, or aperture. Using Auto can be very beneficial in this learning stage because you’ll see how each of these controls affects the appearance.

Make a short columned note card and enter the basic settings for the keepers. Add the weather and lighting conditions that existed at the time of the shot.

Keep this note card in your camera bag and try to replicate the results from the keepers.

Repeat this exercise regularly and watch your results, judgment, and predictability improve.

Conclusion

You are your best teacher and your camera’s metadata and EXIF information recorded automatically with every shot is the notebook recording detailed information about every shot. Your confidence and efficiency should improve along with your photography when you study your notes. Who knows, this could be the shot-in-the-arm that pushes you forward.

Share with us how you have learned from your own mistakes in the comments below.

The post You Are Your Own Best Teacher – Learning From Your Photography Mistakes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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