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  • Hands-on with the Hasselblad X1D II 50C

    Hands on with Hasselblad’s X1D II 50C

    The new Hasselblad X1D II 50C is housed in a body that’s almost exactly the same as that used for the original X1D 50C. You will notice that the top plate and metal trim are now a dark grey instead of the lighter shade brushed chrome used on the original model, but there isn’t too much to tell them apart at first glance.

    Hasselblad’s first X system zoom lens

    This is the camera with the new 35-75mm F3.5-4.5 lens mounted. This is the first zoom for the X system and is said to produce the quality that exceeds prime lenses. While it is relatively big when compared to the other system lenses it is still well balanced and comfortable on the X1D II 50C body. It isn’t nearly as heavy as it looks either, at 1115g weighing only a bit more than a Nikon 24-70mm F2.8 for the F system. For a medium format lens it is doing quite well.

    X1D II 50C top view

    The top plate remains unchanged from the previous model, with a Nikon-compatible hotshoe, and the same control layout and operation as before.

    Grip changes

    There is a slightly different shape to the right hand grip in the new version I’m told. The grip is slightly more angled to the main body, and the finger and thumb holds are a little more pronounced, providing a more secure grip with longer lenses. The difference isn’t dramatic and I’m not sure I could tell without direct comparison, but the grip feels good either way.

    Rear screen changes

    The change in the rear screen though is dramatic. The new 3.6″ display looks significantly bigger and fills a lot more of the back of the camera than the screen on the original model. We have a much higher resolution too, with 2.36 million dots compared to 920k dots, which leads to much greater detail on display.

    Higher resolution viewfinder

    The viewfinder enjoys a higher resolution as well as a slightly larger magnification of the image on display. The resolution has jumped from 2.36 million dots to 3.69 million, and when you look through the finder window you can see the effect of that extra detail. The refresh rate is also improved to 60 fps which makes a further significant difference. These three changes make this viewfinder a much more modern device and very nice to use.

    USB-C and UHS-II

    The switch to USB-C allows better communication with external devices, so large files can be moved more quickly to a user’s iPad or computer when shooting tethered or when downloading captured images. The camera has dual SD slots that have been upgraded to UHS-II and which can accept 1TB cards.

    Few changes to UI

    The main menu screen hasn’t really changed that much. Some of the icons are redrawn to be clearer and with the higher resolution display everything looks a bit sharper and cleaner.

    Menu navigation

    Accessing the menu items though has changed, so now we have menus in menus, like folders, instead of big long lists of items which take ages to scroll through. The menu can now be viewed in the viewfinder too, which can make operation a good deal more convenient.

    Shooting data

    The main shooting data display is much the same as before, though now we have the exposure indicator in the middle of the screen.

    More responsive touch control

    I was very pleased with the reactions of the touch functions and how much more responsive they are now. Touching your subject on the rear screen brings the AF area to that point and the focusing system to life immediately. It is a dramatic improvement on previous performance. We can now also change the size of the AF area just by pinching with two fingers on the rear screen, which is much quicker than before. The three AF area sizes options are still accessible in the menu as well.

    Touch pad AF

    Now the rear screen can be used as a touch pad to direct the AF area while our eye is to the viewfinder. This also is a massive improvement, and the system works quickly, smoothly and predictably.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Panasonic S Pro 50mm F1.4 sample gallery

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    We’ve been hard at work on our Panasonic S1 and S1R camera reviews, and over the course of testing have had an enormous amount of time to gather samples with the Panasonic S Pro 50mm F1.4. Launched alongside the aforementioned cameras, this lens has become a staff favorite thanks to its stunningly sharp results. Have a look for yourself.

    See our Panasonic S Pro 50mm F1.4 gallery

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Analysis: With new AF firmware, Nikon’s Z6 & Z7 just got more competitive

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    Nikon has released a much-anticipated firmware update intended to improve autofocus performance from it Z-series mirrorless cameras. Specifically, Nikon promised improvements to autofocus in low contrast and low light shooting situations, but perhaps the most anticipated feature this firmware brings is continuous Eye AF.

    As soon as the new firmware became available we updated our Z6 and Z7, and we’ve shot extensively with the updated cameras over the past few weeks. I routinely use a broad spectrum of Eye AF implementations, particularly Sony’s best-in-class one, and I can state up-front that I’ve come away very impressed. But not without a fair share of caveats and suggestions for improvement.

    Does the update address the autofocus usability and performance issues we detailed in our Nikon Z7 review? And how does it stack up under the microscope against the best Eye AF systems? Read on to learn more.

    Table of contents:

    • Identifying eyes
    • Focusing on unintended subjects
    • Choosing your subject
    • Eye AF accuracy
    • Conclusion
    • Footnote: compared to Canon EOS R / RP
    Eye AF on the updated Z6 is so effective that it even found the coach’s eye underneath his cap.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    Identifying eyes

    When it comes to finding eyes and tracking them, the updated Z cameras compare very favorably to the a7R III.

    The Z6 and Z7 are able to routinely identify eyes behind glasses, and even when all you see is a person’s profile, as in the shot above, or this one. It then holds onto the eye nearly as tenaciously as the a7R III. As it turns out, it’s often even better than the Sony at initially identifying eyes in sideways-turned or downward-looking faces. That said, once the a7R III has identified the eye of your subject, it tends to be better at sticking with it, even if their face is turned to a profile. Faces and eyes have to be a bit larger in the frame before Eye AF kicks in on the Nikon, but in practical use this difference is negligible.

    A situation where the Nikon Z6 found my daughter’s eye, but the Sony a7R III did not. Unfortunately, as you’ll see in this series of shots, accuracy of focus was comparatively poor, an issue that particularly manifests itself as light levels drop.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 35/1.8 S

    But simply identifying eyes and faces isn’t all that useful, in and of itself. Accuracy of detection (i.e., not seeing faces where there aren’t any) and accuracy of focus are the more important factors. Let’s investigate.

    Focusing on unintended subjects

    A downside of Nikon’s eagerness to find faces and eyes means sometimes it finds them where they don’t exist, like in this featureless shag carpet or these trees in the background. When this happens, even if a real face re-appears the camera is often reticent to refocus on it, especially if it’s at a vastly different distance-to-camera. Often the camera will hang on to the mis-identified ‘face’. In comparison I’ve never found Sony cameras to identify a non-human subject as a face or eye.

    A downside of just how easily Nikon Z cameras find faces and eyes is that quite often it finds faces in objects that are not faces. In this case, the camera detected a face in the ladder in the background. It was then slow to re-focus on my daughter when she revealed her face again, and in some instances remained on the ladder.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 35/1.8 S

    This problem with false positives could be worked around if the Z cameras worked more like (recent) Sonys and Canons in which Eye AF works over the top of their subject tracking modes, meaning you can point your initial AF point at your subject to tell the camera what to target.

    The omission of Nikon’s excellent 3D AF Tracking feature in the Z-series (and its replacement with an unintuitive, less effective subject tracking mode) was our biggest gripe about the Z-series when it launched. It would have been a perfect mode to layer Eye AF on top of.

    Instead, Eye AF is only available in the Zs’ ‘Auto area’ AF mode, where the camera is left to decide what to focus on. While it makes sense that an auto area AF mode might assume that the nearest thing to the camera is your intended subject (see below) this is not always true.

    Despite there being two clearly identifiable faces within this scene, in ‘Auto Area’ mode the camera chose the nearest subject. But can you blame it? Most ‘auto’ AF systems are designed to focus on near, central objects because It makes sense, most of the time.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    The soccer ball was not my intended subject in the image above, my daughter was. And that’s the problem with Eye AF only being added onto an ‘auto’ mode: you have accept that sometimes the camera will focus with a mind of its own. Most ‘Auto’ area modes tend to prioritize central, nearer objects like the ball above, and that’s not always the thing you want.

    There is a way to force the camera to refocus on your subject once its focused on an unintended one (more on that below), but this doesn’t always work reliably. If your subject is at a vastly different distance from the one the camera is currently focused on, the Z6 / Z7 can be particularly reticent to refocus. The AF system either flat out refuses to refocus, or does so hesitantly. This again highlights the need for a robust subject tracking autofocus mode, to which Eye AF should be coupled.

    The Z7 initially chose to focus on the background in its ‘Auto area’ AF mode. This is unfortunately common behavior for the Z-series cameras. The bigger problem is that after the camera has focused on the background, it’s reticent to refocus on a foreground subject if the subject is so far from the background that it’s extremely blurred.

    Nikon Z7 | Nikkor 50/1.8 S

    Choosing your subject

    As you can see, most of the problems come from the camera choosing the wrong subject. You are given some tools to rectify this, but these have their own drawbacks. Let first explain why this matters.

    Event, wedding, and many other photographers trying to capture candid portraits have a very specific requirement that many manufacturers tended to overlook in the past: the desire to choose which face, among many, to focus on. On the latest Sony cameras you can simply place the AF point over your desired face and half-press the shutter button.

    Nikon offers two ways to choose your subject: tap on a detected face or eye on the rear LCD or use the joystick or four-way controller to jump between eyes and faces.

    I wasn’t able to select my daughter (in the background) as the target because the Z6’s AF system did not detect her face. If Eye AF were combined with a proper subject tracking mode, as it is for Sony’s ‘Real Time Tracking AF’ or Canon’s Face+Tracking on its EOS R/RP, then I could always rely on the camera at least tracking my daughter, whether or not it has detected her face or eyes.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    Normally, tapping on the LCD from ‘auto’ area mode is one way of engaging subject tracking. But if you tap on a detected face, the camera will automatically enter Eye AF mode instead of subject tracking mode. Note though, if you are a bit sloppy with your tap such that the camera ends up tracking a part of your subject’s shoulders or body, the camera may enter subject tracking mode and won’t engage Eye AF until you manually cancel tracking and try again.

    Using the joystick to select your subject works quite well on the Z-series cameras

    Either way, repeatedly having to take your eye away from the EVF just to tap on the LCD isn’t a great user experience, especially if you’ve just moved from a DSLR and are used to always having your eye to the viewfinder.

    Thankfully, using the joystick to select your subject works quite well on the Z-series cameras, even allowing you to quickly toggle between the left and right eye of your subject. There’s a caveat, though: in order for you to switch to a different person, the camera has to have identified that person’s face. In candid shooting, if your subject is looking away, or for some reason isn’t identified as a face, you’ll find yourself repeatedly hitting the joystick or tapping the screen with no result.

    Thankfully, a moment later, the Z6 did detect my daughter’s face, and I was able to hit ‘left’ on the joystick to switch from the blonde child to my daughter (in-focus). But this way of choosing your subject can be a gamble, dependent upon whether or not the camera has detected your intended subject as a face / eye to switch to.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    In practice, some of these concerns were allayed because the Z6 and Z7 are just so darn good at identifying eyes and faces that more often than not, I was able to select my daughter. And once I’d selected her, it stuck to her like glue. Even if she looked away, the Z6 continued to track her head, ready to jump back to her eye when she faced the camera again. Now, if your subject completely turns its back to you or looks away for long enough, the camera will eventually jump off to another eye in the scene.

    So it’s not bad, by any means. However, the very best current system don’t have these problems. The systems introduced in the Sony a9 and a6400 will track a subject and automatically switch in and out of Eye AF as necessary, as it finds or loses them on the subject being tracked. And that’s the bar the Nikons have to live up to.

    Eye AF accuracy

    Now that we’ve talked about the ability of the cameras to detect eyes and select the right one, let’s get to an arguably more important question: how often are the resultant photos actually focused on the eyes?

    In good light, for the most part, the Nikon Z6 and Z7 do a great job of focusing on the eye. It’s a good deal better than Canon, but it doesn’t quite compete with the repeated pinpoint accuracy of Sony’s system, particularly in challenging light as we’ll see below.

    While few would complain about the above result (this is a 50% crop), if you roll over to the a7R III example, you’ll see that the eye itself is in better focus, while the Nikon Z7 shot is slightly front-focused. Interestingly, on those occasions when Eye AF accuracy struggled on the Nikon, I almost always found the result to be fractionally front-focused.

    Nikon’s Eye AF reticule tends to be rather large, especially compared to Sony’s, and I wonder if this is at least part of the reason. After all, contrasty features around the eye like eyelashes and eyebrows fall in front of the eye. In the image below, focus seems to lie on my daughter’s eyebrow, something that happened with quite some frequency:

    I found Eye AF on the Z6 to front-focus more than I’d expect, sometimes significantly so. Here the camera appears to have focused on my daughter’s eyebrow.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 35/1.8 S

    The extent to which this inaccuracy might affect you will vary from lens to lens. With many lenses and subject distances, the slight difference in distance between an eyebrow and an eye won’t matter. But for shallow depth-of-field applications, and particularly with fast wide primes like the 35/1.8 where the difference in camera-subject distance between the eye and the eyebrow can be significant, I found the inaccuracy to be problematic. Furthermore, if you’re shooting a model with prominent eyelashes, you may end up experiencing more ‘eyelash AF’ than ‘eye AF’.

    As light levels drop, accuracy suffers even further. The shot below is severely front-focused, despite light levels being at a modest 4 EV (approx). Interestingly, the camera fared better under similarly dark daylight conditions (as opposed to artificial light). The a7R III did not struggle with accuracy under these conditions.

    Even at 4 EV, Eye AF autofocus accuracy can take a dive with artificial lighting. Interestingly, I had better results at similar daylight levels.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 35/1.8 S

    That’s not to say the Z6 is incapable of capturing accurately focused shots in these lighting conditions. Quite the contrary: I achieved a number of successful shots, like the ones below.

    In darker conditions though, down to around -1EV, I was only getting a hit-rate of around one shots in three from the Z6, compared to the Sony a7R III, which typically missed only one or zero shots in a comparable sequence in repeated testing. The Z7 in particular would often hunt, and in Release Priority take completely out-of-focus shots. The Z6 fared better.

    Furthermore, the Nikon 35 S and 50 S primes tend to sometimes hesitate to refocus, and this problem was only made more obvious in low light as the AF system tended to slow down. I’d often depress the shutter button and shoot a number of out-of-focus shots before the focus element finally even started to move to the correct position. This seems to be a problem not with Eye AF, but with the default behavior of the AF system, particularly with native lenses (often I achieved better results with adapted F-mount lenses).

    In ~1 EV lighting, at best only two of these six shots are critically focused (click image to view 1:1). I had the same hit-rate with a different subject under 1 EV artificial lighting, where only one or two of six shots were critically focused. In all these instances, the eye was successfully detected by the camera.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 35/1.8 S

    Another (related) area where Eye AF, and focus in general, can struggle is under severely backlit conditions. Here, like many DSLRs, the Z6 can resort to hunting. While I was still able to get the perfectly focused shot on the left, the camera struggled, and many of the shots were misfocused like the one on the right.

    In focus one moment…

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    Out of focus the next.

    Nikon Z6 | Nikkor 70-200/2.8E FL ED VR

    Conclusion

    My goal in this article was to determine when and where the newly introduced Nikon Z6 / 7 Eye AF worked well, and when it didn’t. I tested the performance side-by-side with the Sony a7R III but also considered the best implementation from a usability point-of-view, which is the system in the Sony a9 and a6400.

    Because this is a complicated thing to test (thanks for reading this far), I’ve broken our findings up according to four criteria, with winners indicated in bold.

    • Detecting eyes: Nikon Z
    • Avoiding false positives: Sony
    • Eye AF ease-of-use: Sony
    • Accuracy of Eye AF: Sony

    Considering the updates in the Z6 and Z7 represent Nikon’s first stab at Eye AF, this is really impressive.

    Our main outstanding concerns are twofold: The first is false positives, where the camera will misidentify something as a face and stick to it, and a general tendency of ‘Auto area’ AF to focus and stay focused on the background. Second, and perhaps more important: we’d like to see Eye AF integrated with a reliable and easy-to-use subject tracking mode, like 3D Tracking on the company’s own DSLRs. The only reason we might consider ‘ergonomics of Eye AF’ to be comparable is if we compare the updated Z cameras to the older Sony a7R III. The a9 and a6400, on the other hand, have the best Eye AF implementation to-date, both from a performance and usability standpoint (and as such should be a model for others to follow).

    Nikon’s introduction of an effective Eye AF system is a huge step in the right direction

    For now, let’s take a step back and give Nikon kudos for the fact that its improved face and eye detection allows me to get shots like the one below without having to think, whereas previously Auto Area mode may well have focused on my daughter’s arm in the foreground.

    Face detect worked beautifully here to quickly nail this shot.

    Nikon Z7 | Nikkor 50/1.8 S

    Nikon’s introduction of an effective Eye AF system is a huge step in the right direction for its mirrorless line of cameras, which even before this update, were already in my opinion the most enjoyable and photographer-friendly of today’s ILCs to shoot with.

    If this firmware update is at all indicative of what’s to come from the Nikon Z-series, then we’re keen to see what’s next. The rebirth of 3D Tracking, pretty please?

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    Footnote: For the sake of completeness, we also compared the updated Z6 / Z7 to Canon’s EOS R and RP. The Nikon Z cameras are considerably better at finding eyes than either of the Canons, where the eye has to be pretty big in the frame to even be identified. The updated Z-series cameras are also much more responsive when it comes to tracking the eye: like the Sony a7/R III they follow eyes around the frame quickly, whereas the EOS R / RP lag and frequently have to play ‘catch up’ with moving subjects.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • X-Rite announces new ColorChecker sizes

    Color calibration specialist X-Rite has announced a range of new sizes in its line of ColorChecker reference targets for photographers and videographers, including Nano, Mini, XL and MEGA.

    With the expansion of the line-up X-Rite is now aiming to target a much larger spectrum of photographic applications than previously. Here is an overview of the new options:

    • ColorChecker Classic Nano: 24mm x 40mm (1 x 1.75″) – for macro or close up photography.
    • ColorChecker Classic Mini: 6.4 x 11cm (2.5 x 4.25″) – for archival photography
    • ColorChecker Classic XL: 37 x 53cm (21 x 14.75″) – for photographers working in large studios, doing long distance photography or camera/lighting testing.
    • ColorChecker Classic Mega: 100 x 152cm (40 x 60″) – for photographers working on large sets and doing extreme distance photography or camera/lighting testing.
    • ColorChecker Video Mega: 100 x 152cm (40 x 60″) – for filmmakers working on large sets and doing extreme distance filmmaking or camera/lighting testing.

    All ColorChecker Classic targets show an array of 24 natural object, chromatic, primary and greyscale colors, arranged in four rows. During capture or when editing it can be used to create custom DNG or ICC camera profiles, color grade video footage or visually compare, measure and analyze differences in color reproduction.

    The ColorChecker Video was developed specifically for the filmmaker and includes chromatic color chips, skin tone chips and grey reference chips, allowing filmmakers to adjust exposure, match multiple cameras and speed up color grading. More information is available on the X-Rite website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Adobe Lightroom is now available on Apple’s Mac App Store for the first time ever

    Starting today, Adobe Lightroom is available in the Mac App Store. This marks the first time one of Adobe’s flagship Creative Cloud apps is available within Apple’s redesigned desktop app market.

    Adobe lists two in-app purchases within the Adobe Lightroom listing: a $ 9.99 monthly subscription option and a $ 118.99 annual subscription option.

    A screenshot of the Adobe Lightroom app listing in the Mac App Store.

    Adobe says the first week of using Lightroom, which comes with 1TB of cloud-based storage, is free. After the first week, the recurring monthly payment is automatically charged to your iTunes account. As with other macOS subscriptions, you can turn off auto-renew in your ‘Account Settings’ within 24 hours before the end of your billing period and you won’t be charged for the renewal.

    Alternatively, if you already have an Adobe Creative Cloud subscription that includes Lightroom, you can also log into your account after downloading Lightroom from the Mac App Store.

    The $ 9.99 monthly subscription is the same price in the Mac App Store as it is on Adobe’s own website while the $ 118.99 annual subscription option is just shy of a dollar cheaper than the annual prepaid plan Adobe offers on its Creative Cloud website.1

    Adobe’s decision to keep the prices the same is an interesting one considering Apple is known to take a 30% cut of in-app purchases made within its desktop and mobile app stores for the first year and 15% cut for each year after that. Even with the decrease in revenue though, it’s safe to say Adobe isn’t hurting, considering its stock is at an all-time high after a record-breaking Q2.


    1 Adobe has the annual Lightroom prepaid plan listed for $ 119.88

    Update (June 20, 2019): Added text to clarify that you can log into your existing Creative Cloud membership even when downloading Lightroom through the Mac App Store.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DJI Spark 2 drone will not be released this summer as rumored

    It has been almost a year since DJI introduced a new drone aimed at consumers. The Mavic 2 Pro and Zoom models were announced on July 18th of last year. With rumors swirling that the planned Phantom 5 line was canceled, while most of the Phantom 4 series has remained sold out for the past six months, it was expected that the world’s top drone manufacturer would release an update to one of its popular models in the near future.

    DroneDJ recently reported that a Spark 2 drone was slated for release this summer. The original Spark was released April 15, 2017, making an upgrade long overdue. The spark is even smaller in size than the Mavic series. It’s an ideal accessory for vacations and family events which is why the July release made perfect sense. The online publication got some bad news this past Tuesday.

    ‘We have received word that the Spark 2 launch that was scheduled for July 23rd has been postponed indefinitely. An industry insider told us that DJI sent out a memo last week stating: “due to a shift in priorities the July 23 event is now on hold until further notice.” Unfortunately, no information was provided explaining the postponement nor was a new date announced.’

    ‘An industry insider told us that DJI sent out a memo last week stating: “due to a shift in priorities the July 23 event is now on hold until further notice.” Unfortunately, no information was provided explaining the postponement nor was a new date announced.’

    Here are some of the specs and upgrades DroneDJ author Haye Kesteloo expected from the DJI Spark 2:

    • 4K video at 30fps
    • Increased video bitrate
    • An improved 3-axis gimbal
    • ActiveTrack 2.0
    • 2x digital zoom
    • An increased flight time of 18 minutes versus 16 minutes for the original Spark
    • New battery design that is not compatible with the original model
    • Same official range but with a new antenna design and a new remote controller featuring improved tech for a better connection. OcuSync 2.0 will likely not be included
    • Two exterior colors: black and white
    • A new panorama mode

    DJI recently released the Robomaster S1, a ground-based robot aimed at educators and students interested in Science, Technology, Education, and Mathematics (STEM). This latest cancellation of the Spark 2 has insiders and enthusiasts, alike, wondering when they plan on shipping a new-and-improved drone.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Video: The Asus ZenFone 6 flip-camera module is more durable than you might think

    The Asus ZenFone 6 comes with a rotating camera module that does away with the display notch and means there is no requirement for a front camera, as the main module can simply be rotated to point towards the front when required.

    Asus says the camera module housing is extremely durable and the flip mechanism has been tested for 100,000 actuations. It also closes automatically when a drop is detected.

    If this still isn’t enough to convince you that there’s no need to worry about the camera module’s durability, watch the video above. Zack from Youtube channel JerryRigEverything demonstrates how much abuse the ZenFone 6, and specifically its camera, can take…and it’s a lot.

    Be warned though, the video does not make for easy watching. Zack pushes and pulls the rotating module, twists the hinges and even sellotapes various items to it in order to see how much weight the motor can lift.

    The good news is that the Asus withstands all the abuse without any issues and motor, gears and the entire flip-mechanism keep working perfectly. In the video, you can also see the display and housing scratched and heated but most of the camera torture happens right at the beginning and from 5:17 in the clip.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • 5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks

    The post 5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.

    The world of post-processing is a big world with endless possibilities. Every photographer applies photo editing tools in their own way, and we all have different purposes of what we want to convey through our photography. For me, post-processing is a way to overcome certain limitations found within the camera and to better represent what I experienced in the field. For this purpose, I use both Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop.

    I used Luminosity Masks to selectively process this image

    While I do most of the work in Lightroom, there are several techniques I apply that can only be done in Photoshop. Some of these techniques are quite popular, while other techniques are the result of spending too many hours playing around and trying various things. The one thing I often notice when viewing images from aspiring photographers, or when talking post-processing with my workshop clients, is that every effect is applied globally. I believe that is a BIG mistake.

    Certain effects should only be applied to specific parts of an image. That’s where Layers and Masks in Photoshop come in handy. However, I like to make my selections more accurate than just painting with a black/white brush on a Layer Mask, which is why Luminosity Masks have become an important part of my workflow. I’m not going to get into what they are and how to create them in this article. If you don’t know how to create them, I suggest you read this article first so that what I discuss in this article makes sense to you. I will be covering 5 scenarios where you should use Luminosity Masks.

    1. Use Luminosity Masks to apply contrast

    Let’s step out of Photoshop and into the Lightroom RAW editor for a moment to take a look at what happens when you increase the contrast slider:

    Pulling Lightroom’s Contrast slider to the right brightens the brights and darken the darks, without taking into consideration how dark the darks are and how bright the brights are. That will quite often result in shadows becoming pure black and the brightest highlights becoming pure white. Yes, you can avoid this by adjusting the slider more gently or playing with the Highlights/Shadows sliders (which I often do in addition). However, there’s another way that’s even better: apply contrast using a Luminosity Mask.

    I’ve already applied contrast and made basic raw adjustments when opening this file in Photoshop. So when I now keep working with the contrast, I don’t want to affect the brightest highlights or the darkest shadows. That means that I only want to apply contrast to the midtones. This is easily achieved in Photoshop by creating a Midtones Luminosity Mask (I often go for Midtones 2, but make sure to create the other masks as well) and applying it to the Curves Layer Mask (you can also use a Levels or Contrast Adjustment Layer):

    The Midtones 2 Luminosity Mask applied to the Curves Layer Mask

    Looking at the mask above, we can see that we’re not affecting the darker parts of the image when adjusting the contrast. The effect will also be less visible in the brightest parts. If you’re not quite sure what you’re looking at above, remember this phrase when talking about Layer Masks: White Reveals, Black Conceals.

    2. Selectively work on color balance

    The second adjustment that should be done through a Luminosity Mask is Color Balance. Globally working with color will often result in strong color casts.

    Let’s say that you want to cool down the shadows of an image by using a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. The common method would be to set the color balance tone to Shadows and pull the cyan slider to the left and the blue slider to the right, such as this:

    Doing this simple adjustment has given a nice cold color cast to the shadows but, unfortunately, it’s affected more than just the darker parts of the image. Also, less dark areas (areas which are not considered bright), have been affected more than I wanted. Even the highlights seem slightly faded.

    If I make this exact same adjustment through a Darks 3 Luminosity Mask, the result is quite different:

    Notice that the colder color cast has been applied to the darkest parts of the image, which is what I initially aimed for. The midtones and highlights are entirely left alone and remain the same as they did before applying the adjustment.

    3. Darken a bright sky with Luminosity Masks

    Another good use of Luminosity Masks is to darken a too bright sky (in this scenario, it’s important that there’s still information to be pulled out of the bright parts). A quick look at the RAW file below shows us that the left side sky is slightly too bright. I still want it to be brighter than the right since the sun sits just left of the frame. However, I want to get some of the details back from the overly bright areas.

    Using a Curves Layer Adjustment without a mask will affect other parts of the image too. So, again, let’s do it through a Luminosity Mask. The Brights 4 mask seemed best for this particular image:

    Remember, only the white parts of the mask will be affected by the adjustment. As you see above, that means that the majority of the image won’t be affected whatsoever.

    With the Brights 4 Luminosity Mask selected, create a Curves Adjustment Layer and darken by pulling the middle part of the line downwards. We’ve now successfully darkened the bright sky:

    4. Blend multiple images using Luminosity Masks

    Digital cameras have had a great boost in improvement in a short time, but there’s still one thing that they struggle to do: capture the full dynamic range when working with bright skies and dark foregrounds. This certainly is something camera manufacturers are working on. I’m blown away by how far its come, but it’s still not good enough for many of the scenarios landscape photographers work in.

    The workaround is to capture multiple exposures of the same frame with different shutter speeds. Typically, you capture one dark, one base, and one bright image. You then blend these images in post-processing where both the foreground and sky is correctly exposed.

    There are a million ways to do this, but one of the most accurate is to use Luminosity Masks in Photoshop. It might sound advanced, but let me show you just how easy it is.

    Let’s say we want to blend these two images to get back the lost information in the blown out sky. (To keep this simple, I only blend two exposures here. But, I strongly recommend the 3rd exposure as well to use in the brightest part):

    I prefer to have the bright layer on the top and paint in the darker exposure, but either way is perfectly fine. If you prefer having the dark exposure on the top, just do the opposite of what I explain in the next few steps.

    Here’s how you easily blend the images using Luminosity Masks:

    1. Place the bright exposure on the top
    2. Align the layers to avoid ghosting (select both layers and go to Edit -> Auto-Align Layers)
    3. Add a white Layer Mask to the top layer
    4. Create a Brights Luminosity Mask (the exact mask depends on the image. I used Brights 3 for this example)
    5. Use a black brush at 0% hardness and 50% opacity and brush repeatedly on the areas where you want to reveal the darker exposure. Repeat until you’ve got a smooth blend.

    That’s it! Not to hard right? In a matter of minutes I was able to blend the two images above into this:

    As mentioned, this image still needs one darker exposure to be painted back into the brightest area close to the suns’ position. This is quite easy, and all you need to do is have another darker layer at the bottom and use a more restricted Brights mask on the middle layer to reveal it.

    5. To apply Glow Effects

    The final adjustment I strongly recommend doing selectively rather than globally is any glow effect. There’s no need to add a strong Orton Effect to the shadows of a picture, right?

    There are two “guidelines” that I follow when creating a glow effect:

    1. Never apply it to the closest foreground (keep the foreground sharp)
    2. Avoid adding too much to the shadows

    Since there might be highlights in the foreground, I’m going to combine a Luminosity Mask and free painting on the mask in this scenario. Again, this is quite easy and you can achieve it by following a few quick steps:

    1. Create a glow effect on a new layer
    2. Create a wide Brights mask and apply it onto the layer
    3. Grab a soft black brush at a medium opacity and remove the adjustment from the immediate foreground by painting directly onto the layer mask

    By following these simple steps we have added a nice soft glow to the highlights of the image.

    The point of adding a glow effect, in my opinion, is not to make the entire image look soft and hazy but to add a little extra depth and atmosphere. I have achieved this by selectively applying it.

    What next?

    These are just a few adjustments that I recommend applying through a Luminosity Mask. They have become an essential part of my processing workflow during the past several years. I use them in one or another way for the majority of my images. Sometimes I apply to sharpen through them, other times contrast. There really are endless opportunities.

     

    5-scenarios-where-you-should-use-luminosity-masks

    The post 5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.


    Digital Photography School

  • Sandmarc releases anamorphic lens for the iPhone

    Apple’s iPhone models and other high-end smartphones are increasingly regarded as serious tools for film-making, generating a market for movie-centric smartphone camera accessories. Last year premium lens makers Moment launched an anamorphic lens for smartphones, now rivals Sandmarc follow suit.

    The Sandmarc anamorphic lens for iPhones comes with a multi-element design, multi-coating and anti-reflective glass. It uses an aluminum body and can be attached to most recent iPhone models via a dedicated case or a lens clip.

    The company says the lens has been designed to create the same kind of image flare you see in movies and, like other anamorphic lenses, captures more horizontal information by squeezing the image.

    The end result is a cinematic look with ultra-wide aspect ratio and black bars at top and bottom. The lens is available for the iPhone 7/7Plus and later on the Sandmarc website. The package will set you back $ 160 and comes with the lens clip and a dedicated case for your iPhone.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Techart TZE-01 is the world’s first Sony E to Nikon Z AF lens adapter

    Chinese accessory maker Techart has announced the TZE-01, the first autofocus adapter for using Sony E-mount lenses with Nikon’s Z series cameras. Techart describes the adapter’s design as having been ‘difficult’ due to the Nikon Z-mount’s flange distance being just 2mm shorter than the Sony E-mount.

    The Techart TZE-01 features a PCB sandwiched between the electronic connectors on both sides of the adapter, making it possible to use both the Sony E-mount Auto Aperture and Auto Focus lens functions, even when using the Nikon Z’s Face & Eye detection mode.

    The TZE-01 finds room for a PCB to ‘translate’ between the Nikon and Sony communication protocols, allowing Nikon cameras to autofocus E-mount lenses.

    Depending on which Sony E-mount lens is used, Techart claims its adapter allows the use of phase-detect AF to offer autofocus accuracy and speed ‘very close to (if not better) [than] native Z-mount lenses.’ The company claims other functions, including lens-based image stabilization are also supported.

    At this time, the Techart adapter works with Sony E-mount AF lenses from Sigma, Sony, and Tamron / Zeiss. The adapter is shipped with a lens dock for firmware upgrades that will add additional lens support in the future. The TZE-01 adapter is available to purchase for $ 249 USD from TechartPro.com.


    Techart unveils the World’s First Sony E to Nikon Z Autofocus Adapter with a thickness of 2mm

    Guangzhou China, Jun 20, 2019 – Techart, who has previously launched the first autofocus adapter for manual lenses, has unveiled another groundbreaking product, Techart Sony E to Nikon Z Autofocus Adapter (TZE-01). The new TZE-01 is the world’s first autofocus adapter that allows Sony E-mount lenses to retain the Automatic Focus functionality when used on Nikon Z6 and Z7 cameras.

    The flange distance of Nikon Z-mount is only 2mm shorter than Sony E-mount. This makes the design extremely difficult, let alone an electronic adapter where a chip and the connector pins have to be squeezed into. Techart has managed to pull it off and develop one which include connectors of both sides and a PCB board with chip to “translate” the protocol of the lens and the camera.

    The Techart adapter enables both Auto Focus & Auto Aperture functions of Sony E mount lenses to be used on Nikon Z6 and Z7. AF-S, AF-C & MF mode are supported in both still & video shooting. The incredible Face & Eye Detection of Z-mount cameras can also be used. Other functions like lens vibration reduction and timelapse can also be used. Phase-detect Autofocus is adopted to guarantee both AF accuracy and speed to be very close to (if not better) native Z-mount lenses. Please note that functionality may vary when different E-mount lenses are used.

    Nikon Z system is a relatively new system and users do not have a very complete lenses selection. Unlike the system of Sony, most lenses manufacturers have been releasing lenses in E-mount and so the selection is complete. The new Techart adapter currently supports most of the Sony, Sigma, Tamron & Zeiss AF lenses with Sony E mounts including some of the best sellers like Tamron 28-75mm, Batis 25mm f/2, Sony 24mm f/1.4 GM and Sigma 35mm f/1.4, etc.

    The new Techart TZE-01 adapter comes with a lens dock for firmware upgrade. Simply connect the PC/MAC via a Micro USB cable (not included) and the firmware can be updated via the Techart App. Techart is currently working to support more lenses.

    Pricing and Availability

    The Techart Sony E to Nikon Z Autofocus Adapter is currently available for pre-order at our official website (http://www.techartpro.com). The recommended retail price before tax is USD 249/pc. Free shipping will be provided during the promotion period. Delivery will start from late June. 1-year warranty is included.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)