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Weekly Photography Challenge – Mountains

19 Oct

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Mountains appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is MOUNTAINS!

Image: Cathedral Rock and the Hump Mt Buffalo in Winter  by Caz Nowaczyk

Cathedral Rock and the Hump Mt Buffalo in Winter  by Caz Nowaczyk

I have a big fascination with mountains and have recently been visiting Mount Buffalo in Victoria, Australia again (I visit here a lot because it is such an incredible landscape!). This has inspired this week’s challenge!

So go out and capture mountains. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. Just so long as they have mountains! You can also manipulate them in your favorite post-processing software. You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Image: The Cathedral and the Hump at Mt Buffalo National Park, Victoria in Winter by Caz Nowaczyk

The Cathedral and the Hump at Mt Buffalo National Park, Victoria in Winter by Caz Nowaczyk

Image: View from The Horn to The Cathedral and the Hump in Mount Buffalo National Park by Caz Nowacz...

View from The Horn to The Cathedral and the Hump in Mount Buffalo National Park by Caz Nowaczyk

 

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting MOUNTAINS

 

5 Tips for Avoiding Boring Photos of Mountains

Simple Tips to Improve Your Travel Photography – Photographing Mountains, Hills and Valleys

9 Tips for Photographing Mountain Lake Reflections

A Set of Awe Inspiring Majestic Mountain Images

How to Photograph a Minimalist Landscape

These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos

The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2018

Weekly Photography Challenge – MOUNTAINS

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSmountains to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Mountains appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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London researchers develop plant-powered camera system for conservation efforts

19 Oct

ZSL London Zoo has detailed the results of a new scientific trial that successfully powered a tiny camera using plants. At the core of the system are microbial fuel cells designed to harness the energy produced by bacteria in the soil, which works to breakdown biomatter produced by plants. The end result, according to ZSL, may one day be plant-powered cameras that can be used as part of conservation efforts.

The microbial fuel cells were installed in the London Zoo’s Rainforest Life exhibit for use with a maidenhair fern named Pete. Unlike batteries, which need to be regularly recharged using sunlight or an external power source, plant-based fuel cells can be used to power many low-energy sensors, cameras, and other devices in a variety of environments.

‘We’ve quite literally plugged into nature to help protect the world’s wildlife: Pete has surpassed our expectations and is currently taking a photo every 20 seconds,’ said ZSL Conservation Technology Specialist Al Davies. ‘He’s been working so well we’ve even accidentally photobombed him a few times!’ Below are a few photos captured with the system:

By utilizing this technology, conservationists may be able to monitor plant growth, temperature, and other data using remote hardware without relying on solar panels and batteries. Following additional refinement, the team plans to test the technology in the wild.


Image credits: Photos shared with kind permission from ZSL London Zoo.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Luna Display now lets you use an old Mac as a secondary display

18 Oct

Products like Luna Display, Astropad or Duet Display have been offering the ability to turn iPads into secondary displays for the Mac for quite some time. However, with its latest macOS version Catalina Apple has integrated this feature into its own operating system, MacOS, making the third party solutions pretty much redundant.

Duet Display has responded to the challenge by making the feature work with Android tablets in addition to Apple’s iPads. The latest update of Luna Display, version 4.0, now brings the ability to use a second and/or older Mac as a secondary display. Luna Display calls this the Mac-to-Mac mode.

Apple’s in-house solution only works with macOS Catalina and the iPad. It is also limited to newer Mac models. This is where Luna Display adds value. In addition to the iPad you can use an old Mac as a secondary display, and it also works with older Mac computers – the main Mac has to run macOS El Capitan or later – and the secondary Mac which is used as the external display can run the even older macOS Mountain Lion which was launched in 2012. This makes Luna Display a good way of making use of an old and unused Mac that might otherwise be collecting dust hidden away in storage.

Luna Display comes in the shape of a hardware dongle that plugs into the main Mac and is available in USB-C or Mini DisplayPort versions. On the software side of things the Luna Display has to run on both machines. For the system to work both computers have to be connected to the same Wi-Fi network.

Luna Display is available now for $ 69. Early adopters can benefit from a 25 percent launch discount. More information is available on the Luna Display website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Eizo announces 27″ 4K ColorEdge CS2740 monitor with USB-C connection, 10-bit input

18 Oct

Eizo has announced the upcoming release of the ColorEdge CS2740, a 27″ 4K monitor with USB-C connectivity. The CS2740 monitor is a successor to Eizo’s ColorEdge CS2730 that increases the resolution, adds new connectivity options and now offers 10-bit input.

An illustration from the CS2740 product page showing the gradation differences between 8-bit and 10-bit color graphics.

The updated monitor features a 4K (3840 x 2160 pixels, 164 ppi) resolution (compared to the 2560 x 1440 pixel, 109 ppi resolution of the CS2730), new backlight uniformity technology and 10-bit color support (over HDMI) for computers capable of outputting 10-bit images.

An illustration from the product page showing Eizo’s background uniformity technology at work.

On the connection front, Eizo has swapped the DVI-D port found on the CS2730 for a USB-C port, as well as swapped one of the USB-B ports for two USB Type-A ports. In addition to transferring the image to the CS2740 over USB-C, the USB-C port also supports 60W power delivery so laptops can both transfer the image and charge at the same time. This not only saves time, but also cleans up how many cables you’ll need when using the CS2740 as an external display with a laptop.

Eizo claims the CS2740 can be calibrated in just 90 seconds when using its ColorNavigator 7 software with a compatible calibration system. Additional accessories available alongside the CS2740 include a blackout hood and a dedicated calibration sensor. Eizo offers five-year warranty for the CS2740 (or up to 30,000 hours of use).

Currently, there’s no pricing information available for the CS2740, but the product page notes the product will officially be available starting October 24, 2019, so we should know more within the week.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Copyright Your Photography and Why You Really Should

18 Oct

The post How to Copyright Your Photography and Why You Really Should appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

How-to-Copyright-Your-Photography

 

In today’s digital world, it has become crucial to register copyright for your images. Theft online is rampant, so you need to protect yourself and your work. Read on to find out why you should and how to copyright your photography.

How-to-Copyright-Your-Photography

What is Copyright?

Copyright protects the legal rights of the owner of intellectual property or work of art. In simple terms, copyright is the right to copy. As photographers, this means that only we as the original creators of our images, and anyone we give authorization to, are the only ones with the exclusive right to publish or otherwise reproduce our images.

The moment you click the shutter on your camera, you own the copyright to your images. No matter your level of skill, or whether you’re an amateur or a pro, your images are protected by law.

Keep in mind that copyright laws do vary from country to country, therefore the information in this article is general. It’s also meant for educational purposes since I’m not a lawyer and not qualified to give legal advice.

The lack of knowledge or education about copyright has caused a lot of problems in the photographic industry. Many new or emerging photographers are not educating their clients on copyright and usage, so clients assume they own their images and can do with them whatever they wish. To compound this problem, lawyers often advise their clients to always obtain copyright from the photographer, but in most cases, this is completely unnecessary, unless the client wants to sell the images and make a profit from them.

All of the big companies like Coca-Cola and McDonald’s never ask for copyright. They don’t need it. They license images for a specific use and time frame.

Any discussion about buying out copyright should include very large numbers.

How-to-Copyright-Your-Photography

What is published versus unpublished work?

There are two types of work that fall under Copyright: published and unpublished.

Digital media falls under copyright protection, but it has not been updated to be clear. Published works, in this case, are different from a patent, which covers inventions or discoveries, or trademarks, which covers designs, symbols, logos, and words.

To qualify as published, the work must be distributed to the public in some form, whether digital or print. There has to be some form of copies or multiples. A website or blog doesn’t qualify as published because your photos are not getting distributed. Social media is also considered unpublished. It is not distributed to the public in copies the way stock photos are, for example.

How to Copyright Your Photography and Why You Really Should

Why you should register your copyright

It’s an unfortunate by-product of living in today’s world that your images will get stolen. If you post any of your photography online, chances are that some will get stolen at one time or another. Some of this theft is due to the ignorance of the public, while others knowingly take your images without your permission, without paying for usage licensing.

Unfortunately, a lot of large companies do this, and there have been numerous high profile lawsuits where photographers have won hundreds of thousands of dollars for copyright infringement.

Filing copyright on your photos will protect you in the case you need to go to court to sue for statutory damages and lawyers fees. In a copyright infringement suit, a judge or jury can award you statutory damages as defined by the Copyright Act – thousands, if not tens of thousands of dollars, if you can prove that your image was stolen with willful intent.

Photography is becoming more commoditized, but there is still immense value in it because it allows companies to make a profit by advertising their products. If someone is trying to gain financially by selling a product with stolen images, that is a big problem. Think of it this way: it’s not just the images that are stolen; it’s also the profit of the photographer.

When you don’t charge for usage, or go after those who are using your images unlawfully, that’s money out of your pocket. And what’s worse, you may actually be struggling to pay your overhead and make a profit in the first place.

How-to-Copyright-Your-Photography

How to file for Copyright

Filing for copyright can be a bit tedious, but it can be done online fairly simply. For example, as I’m based in Canada, I Googled “Canadian Copyright Office” and easily found the website for the intellectual property office. I have registered photographs and even a photography eBook I sell on my blog online very easily.

Some countries have agreements with the U.S. to enforce U.S. copyright laws. It’s often useful to register your copyright in the U.S. even if you’re not a U.S. citizen, to obtain the statutory benefits of registration in the United States.

Ideally, you should copyright any images before they are published, but you can copyright them at any time. You can even copyright them after you’ve discovered an unlawful use of one of your images. It will just be a bit more complicated from a documentation standpoint.

The cost of registering copyright varies from country to country. In Canada, it’s $ 50, and in the U.S., it’s currently $ 55 for a group of images. You can copyright your images as a group, to a maximum of 750.

For more information about registering photographs with the U.S. Copyright Office, go here.

The portal is fairly simple to use, but this resource will give you more information. You have to upload a .jpeg for each image you’re copyrighting, and submit a title list in an Excel spreadsheet. The preference is that these items be submitted in a .zip file.

Research the copyright laws in your country. Although in many countries like Canada and the U.S. copyright is immediate upon creation of a work, you still have to register copyright before you can sue.

Conversely, in Australia, there is no formal copyright registration system. The law ensures that certain forms of expression are automatically covered under the Copyright Act.

How-to-Copyright-Your-Photography

To sum up

Copyright is something that a lot of people don’t understand – even clients. It’s important to educate yourself and those you work with on the ins-and-outs of copyright. As I mentioned, laws vary from country to country, but you can find a lot of this information online. It’s crucial to protect yourself and your work.

Do you have any other tips on how to copyright your photography? Have you had your images stolen? If so, share with us in the comments below.

The post How to Copyright Your Photography and Why You Really Should appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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Datacolor adds 64-bit support to Spyder5 calibrator for compatibility with macOS Catalina

18 Oct

Color calibration company Datacolor has announced a 64-bit update for its Spyder5 calibration sensor (Adorama, B&H) that will ensure the device is compatible with Apple’s latest macOS Catalina update.

The update, which was required due to the lack of 32-bit application support macOS Catalina, is available as a free software upgrade for all Spyder5 owners.

Datacolor’s newest calibration sensor, the SpyderX, is already 64-bit computable, so if you have the Spyder, there’s no need to update. You can find out more information by visiting Datacolor’s product page.

Press Release:

{pressrelease}

Datacolor Releases 64-Bit Upgrade for Spyder5 Software

Lawrenceville, NJ – October 17, 2019 – Datacolor®, a global leader in color management solutions, is providing all Spyder5 users with an upgrade of their software for monitor calibration. Datacolor will continue to ensure full compatibility with the latest operating systems for customers using the Spyder5 sensor. This is in compliance of new industry standards with the Apple operating system, which will no longer support 32-bit applications with the Catalina macOS 10.15 version.

The Spyder5 software upgrade is free for all users and can be downloaded from the Datacolor website.

Datacolor’s current monitor calibration solution – SpyderX, is 64-bit compatible. SpyderX is Datacolor’s fastest, most accurate and easy-to-use color calibration sensor, providing photographers, designers and videographers with the ultimate confidence and control over their creative vision.

More information about the SpyderX can be found at spyderx.datacolor.com. {/pressrelease}

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tokina launches redesigned ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF lens for Canon EF, Nikon F mounts

18 Oct

Tokina has announced the release of its new ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF lens for Canon EF and Nikon F mount crop-sensor cameras.

The re-designed lens is constructed of 13 elements in 11 groups, including two aspherical elements, a ‘large’ aspherical P-MO element and two all-glass molded low dispersion (SD) elements.

Other features include an aperture range of F2.8-F22, a nine-blade aperture diaphragm, a 77mm front filter thread and a minimum focusing distance of 30cm (11in). Tokina has included its One-Touch Focus Clutch Mechanism for easy switching between autofocus and manual focus by snapping the focus ring forward (for autofocus) or backward (for manual focus).

The Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF weighs 555g (19.58oz) and measures 84mm (3.31in) long. It is currently available for pre-order for $ 449 (Adorama, B&H) and will hit official retailers shelves on November 8, 2019.

Press Release:

Kenko Tokina announces release of the NEW ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF lens

NEW ATX-i Series from Tokina updates the Best-Selling super wide-angle lens for crop-sensor DSLR cameras from Canon and Nikon.

Huntington Beach, CA, October 17, 2019: Kenko Tokina, Japan’s leading manufacturer of premium camera accessories, is releasing the Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF super wide-angle zoom lens for crop-sensor DSLR cameras from Nikon and Canon. Distributed in the US exclusively by Kenko Tokina USA, this new lens is ideal for photographers and video content creators who specialize in landscape, architecture, documentary, environmental portraits, and night sky imagery.

The Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF is re-designed for an improved user experience and better image quality. The constant- aperture lens provides excellent edge-to-edge sharpness and resolution. Reduces flare and ghosting, while maintaining excellent contrast and color. A new waterproof topcoat also makes it easier to clean.

Popular among cinematographers too, because the lens provides a wide cinematic feel, minimized breathing, no edge distortion while panning, and the overall weight and internal focus design makes it an ideal choice for gimbal work.

The One-Touch Focus Clutch Mechanism makes switching from AF to manual focus (MF) simple. While in AF mode the user only needs to snap the focus ring back toward the camera to engage “real” manual focus control. This gives photographers an authentic tactile MF feel with hard stops on either side of the focus range like traditional manual lenses. Additionally, the directional rotation of the focus ring matches the direction of proprietary Nikon and Canon lenses.

Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF MACRO

“This lens offers technical advancements over the current ATX version,” said Yuji Matsumoto, President at Kenko Tokina USA. “It offers enhanced performance and a sleek new look that matches the cosmetics of today’s advanced DSLR cameras.”

“It is an excellent upgrade to one of Tokina’s most popular lenses.” said Greg Napoli, National Sales Manager for Kenko Tokina USA. “The original 11-16mm lens has been a staple of our line-up for years and this new version will continue to find its way into more camera bags.”

Kenko Tokina announces release of the NEW ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF lens

The new Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 CF incorporates a complex optical design, with 13 elements in 11 groups. Using 2 aspherical lenses including a large aspherical P-MO element and 2 all-glass molded Low-Dispersion (SD) elements, the lens effectively suppresses chromatic and spherical aberrations. The front element provides super-low distortion and low light fall-off for straight lines and minimal exposure vignetting. Perfect for architectural, landscape, astrophotographers, and cinematographers.

Worldwide sales of the Tokina ATX-i 11-16mm F2.8 super wide angle zoom lens will begin on November 8, 2019 with authorized Tokina USA retailers taking pre-orders October 17, 2019.

Price: $ 449.00

More information is available at https://tokinausa.com.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

18 Oct

The post 5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

I’ve bought a lot of used gear over the last decade.

Cameras.

Lenses.

Batteries.

And more.

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

A lot of those purchases turned out great. Some of them I still use to this day.

But a large chunk of the used purchases I made?

Trash.

In fact, in my more naive years, I was forced to return over 50% of the gear that I purchased. There were just so many problems: sand in focusing rings, stains on the front element, shutter buttons that couldn’t communicate with the shutter. (Oh, and my least favorite: Fungus inside the lens. Doesn’t that just make you shiver?)

And here’s the kicker:

I bought all of this gear through respectable buyers, who described the equipment as in “excellent condition,” “flawless,” “perfect,” “like new,” – you name it.

It got so bad that I considered leaving the used market entirely and just buying new. But I resisted.

Why?

Used camera gear is a real bargain – if you buy carefully. This is why I took all of my negative gear-buying experiences and turned them into a process for making sure I purchased good used gear.

At the core of that process is a series of questions. Questions that I’m going to share with you today. Some of the questions are for you, the buyer. Others should be posed to the seller before you put any cash down.

Are you ready to discover how to buy used gear effectively?

Let’s get started!

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

Question 1: Are you buying from a reputable seller with a money-back guarantee?

This is the number one most important thing that you should do when buying used gear.

Purchase from a seller that you trust – and that gives you an enforceable money-back guarantee. You don’t want to purchase a camera online, only to find that it’s full of water damage and sports a cracked LCD.

This means that buying used through Amazon is fine. All of their products are backed by Amazon month-long guarantees.

Buying used through eBay is also fine. Ebay’s buyer protection ensures that you’re not going to get ripped off in such an obvious fashion.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

But this makes most forums (if not all forums) off-limits. If the forum doesn’t have a serious money-back guarantee that’s honored by the site itself, then stay away.

This also makes in-person sales off-limits, such as those done through Craigslist. Sure, you can inspect the item upon receipt, but what are you going to do when you get home, put that lens under a light, and realize it’s filled with an army of fungus?

It’ll be too late, and your seller may not be so receptive to a return.

So just don’t do it. Instead, use sites like Amazon, eBay, B&H, or KEH, which all have clear money-back guarantees.

Question 2: Does the seller include actual pictures of the gear?

Sellers not including pictures is a big warning sign, especially on a website like eBay, where pictures are the norm. It should make you ask: Why doesn’t the seller want to show off their “excellent condition” item? Is there something they’re trying to hide?

Another red flag is only showing a stock photo. These are easy to spot; they look way better than anything that a casual, eBay-selling photographer would have taken, and there tends to be only one or two of them.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

If you like the price and everything else checks out, then go ahead and shoot the seller an email, asking for in-depth pictures of the item. If the seller refuses, then it’s time to look elsewhere.

You might come across some sellers who are offering many units of the same item (e.g., five Canon 7D Mark II’s). In this case, they likely have shown a stock photo, or a photo of one item, because they don’t want to go through the effort of photographing each piece of kit.

In such cases, you should message the seller and ask for pictures of the exact item that you’ll be purchasing. It’s too easy, especially with these big sellers, to end up with an item that you’ll have to send back.

Question 3: How many shutter actuations has the camera fired?

(Note: This section is for buying cameras.)

First things first: A shutter actuation refers to a single shot taken with a camera.

Every camera has a number of actuations its shutter is rated for. Once the shutter has reached around that point, it just…fails. While you can get the shutter replaced, it generally costs enough that you’re probably better off buying a new camera body.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

If you want to know the shutter actuation rating of any particular camera, you can look it up through a quick Google search.

Of course, the shutter rating isn’t a hard and fast rule. There are some cameras that go far beyond their predicted shutter count, and there are some cameras that fail far sooner. The shutter count is just an average.

Now, when you look at camera listings online, you’ll see that shutter actuations are reported about fifty percent of the time.

But the other fifty percent of the time, there will be no mention of them.

This is for three possible reasons:

  1. The seller doesn’t know about the importance of shutter actuations.
  2. The seller can’t figure out how to determine the shutter actuations for their camera.
  3. The seller doesn’t wish to share the shutter count because it won’t help the sale.

I would never buy a camera without knowing its shutter count. Therefore, I recommend reaching out to the seller and asking.

If the seller refuses to share the count, then let the camera go. If the seller claims they don’t know how to view the shutter count, explain that they should be able to find it easily, either within the camera itself or through a website such as https://www.camerashuttercount.com/.

If they still won’t give you the count, then don’t buy. It’s not worth risking it.

Question Four: Does the lens have any blemishes on the glass, fungus, scratches, haze, or problems with the focusing ring?

(Note that this is for purchasing lenses.)

This is a question to ask the seller, and I suggest you do it every single time you make a purchase.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

Yes, the seller may be annoyed by your specific question. But this is a transaction; it’s not about being nice to the seller! And I’ve never had someone refuse to sell to me because I annoyed them with questions.

In fact, what makes this question so valuable is that it often forces sellers to actually consider the equipment they’re selling. Up until this point, the seller may not have really thought about some of these things. So it can act as a bit of a wake-up call and make the seller describe the item beyond “excellent condition.”

When you ask this question, make it clear that you want a detailed description. You genuinely want the seller to check for scratches on the glass, fungus in the lens, problems with the focusing ring, and more. You don’t want a perfunctory examination.

Unfortunately, there will still be some people who don’t do a serious examination, or who lie in the hopes that you won’t notice the issues (or be bothered enough to make a return). But asking the question is the best you can do.

Question Five: Has the seller noticed any issues with the item in the past?

This is another question to ask the seller before you hit the Buy button. It’s meant as a final attempt to determine whether the item has any issues.

In this case, by asking about the item’s past.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

Unfortunately, there will be sellers who have had an item break repeatedly – but, as long as it’s working at the moment they take the photos, they’ll give it the “perfect condition” label. Fortunately, many sellers will still be honest with you. If they’ve had a problem with the item, they’ll say.

So it’s definitely worth asking – just to be safe.

5 Questions to ask before buying used camera gear: Conclusion

Now that you know the five most important questions to ask before buying used camera gear, you’re well equipped to start buying gear online.

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

Yes, you’re still going to run into the occasional issue, but if you’re careful, and you think about these crucial questions to ask before buying used camera gear…

…the number of issues will be far, far lower.

And you’ll be able to effectively take advantage of used camera equipment!

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

The post 5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Report: Adobe Photoshop CC for iPad is missing key features according to beta testers

18 Oct

Late last year, Adobe promised the future arrival of ‘real Photoshop’ for the iPad, something consumers expected would be a desktop-class offering able to compete with Affinity Photo and other apps already available on Apple’s tablets. The Photoshop for iPad app entered private beta testing in late August ahead of its public launch and now details are starting to roll in from testers.

According to Bloomberg News, some Photoshop on iPad beta testers are reporting a lack of key features they had thought would be available in the app. Some of these missing or stunted features are said to involve core aspects of the software, including raw editing, layer styles, filters, smart objects, the pen tool and parts of mask creation.

One tester claimed the beta version of the app is ‘inferior’ to Affinity Photo and Procreate, two apps available on the iPad.

A promotional photo currently on Apple’s website showing off a demo version of Adobe Photoshop CC, which still reads ‘Coming to iPad in 2019.’

Adobe’s Creative Cloud chief product officer Scott Belsky told Bloomberg that the final version of the software will include more features, which are being added close to launch because the company must work with Apple in order to bring the software to iPadOS. Instead of packing as many features as possible into the software before launch, Adobe told Bloomberg that its engineers focused on features they believed would be most desired by iPad users.

Users can expect the ability to sync their work with the desktop version of Photoshop using Creative Cloud, plus there will be support at launch for all Photoshop files and non-destructive editing. As well, users can expect ‘entirely new tools’ that revolve around native iPad features, namely the Apple Pencil and touchscreen.

Adobe says that it will continue to expand iPad on Photoshop’s abilities over time following its launch in the coming months.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

18 Oct

The post How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

how-to-make-your-images-have-fall-vibes

With Fall fast approaching, we will soon be surrounded by beautifully warm-colored leaves and vegetation, filling the air with the sweet scent of Autumn. This is a photographer’s paradise, especially the ones who are also social media mavens following artistic trends. But what if you, like me, are not so lucky to live in a place that actually has seasons?! I live in Southern California, and finding trees that actually change color is…pretty uncommon, to say the least. So what are lonesome Californians to do?! Turn to post-processing, to make your images have fall vibes!

What defines a Fall or Autumn vibe in images?

how-to-make-your-images-have-fall-vibes

All there is to portraying specific ideas or ‘vibes’ are color. We associate colors with seasons, inspired by the colors that nature gives us during those times (in locations that actually have seasons. Is my bitterness over Southern California’s lack of seasons showing yet?!). Winter tends to be cold and blue, Spring is rainbow and vibrancy, Summer is warm greens, and Autumn is oranges, reds, and yellows.

Although you can sit there for several hours and recolor every leaf into a different Autumn color, for the most part, Fall vibes can be achieved by playing with and removing colors that are associated with the seasons we are not trying to mimic. Fall is warm and full of reds, oranges, yellows, and more rustic tones.

How to make your images have fall vibes in post-processing

Taken this summer, this is the base image we will be working with to show you how to make your images have fall vibes. I find that images with very shallow depth of field (like the one below) are a bit easier to work with when altering their colors.

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

For the sake of explanation, the edits shown below are quite extreme. Use your judgment and personal taste to determine how far you take them.

Also, the tutorials I am listing below use Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop. However, they can easily apply to other editing software too as many feature similar options and sliders. Even the free mobile version of Photoshop and Lightroom have these sliders.

Adobe Lightroom

I turn to Lightroom for these kinds of color adjustments because it’s quite quick and simple to do. You can also copy the settings and apply them to an entire batch of images rather than having to do each one by one. Our final image will look like this:

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The HSL Panel

The HSL panel is the first panel I go to when I want to create a summer vibe in my photographs. Conveniently, this is one of the first open panels in Lightroom.

HSL stands for “Hue, Saturation, and Luminance,” and is a panel box in Adobe Lightroom (with similar panels in other programs). I like to say that this is the panel that adjusts each of the colors individually. Each slider is divided by colors: red, orange, yellow, green, aqua, blue, purple, and magenta.

Hue is the color. On a technical term, the hue is the wavelength of the light reflected. This describes why an object that is a solid color appears different depending on the amount of light that hits it. On the HSL panel, the Hue slider can change how specific colors look. For example, the reds can be made to be more orange in color or more red.

Saturation determines how intense a color is. Pulling the slider to the left makes the color more gray, pulling the slider to the right makes it more true to pure tone.

Luminance lightens or darkens a specific color. Luminance refers to the reflective brightness of colors. I use this slider to make colors that are a bit too light, much darker in photographs so that they don’t stand out to the eye too much.

With the image above, our primary objective is to change the green to more fall colors. In this case, I will make the green more orange. I can achieve this by adjusting the Green color slider under ‘Hue’ and subsequently adjusting the colors surrounding the green. The awesome thing about sliders is that you have full control.

Next, I drop down to saturation and adjust how true to tone each color is and decreasing the color we want to remove altogether (for example, the green).

Finally, with the Luminance slider, I brighten up all of the warmth we have put into the photograph.

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

Split toning

If you find solely using the HSL sliders isn’t enough, you can add more of the color you want using the Split Toning menu. Split Toning is located right below HSL.

Split Toning is just toning applied to different areas of luminance. You can color your shadows with one color, and your highlights with another. In this case, I toned both the highlights and the shadows to bring even more warmth into the image.

When I do Split Toning, to make it easy to see what I am doing, I bring the Saturation up to its maximum 100 value point and then click on the little color rectangle next to Highlights and then next to Shadows. Clicking this rectangle brings up a color selection box. I then select the color I am interested in and proceed to significantly lower the sliders until I achieve the shadow or highlight coloration I desire.

The settings I used for the image above are these:

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

Masks

If you’re following along in your own editing program, you may find that making all of these color adjustments have now impaired parts of our image that you may not want to be colored like that. In my photo, the whites of the dog became far too yellow for my liking. You can use Masks to remedy this by selecting the parts of the image you do not want the effect applied to.

Locate Masks at the very top of the right-hand tabs when clicking “Develop.” I like to use the Adjustment Brush which is the long selectable line directly under “Histogram” in the screenshots below.  Then, you paint on the image and can make adjustments on the painted section independent from the overall image. In this case, I removed the warm effect from the dog and brightened the dog a bit. The red haze shows you where you applied the mask.

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes how-to-make-your-images-have-fall-vibes

Adobe Photoshop

There are many, many, many different methods of achieving the same end result in Adobe Photoshop.

Photoshop is a large, and at times, complex program. To keep it simple, I’ll explain my favorite color adjustment methods similar to the adjustments in Adobe Lightroom. For another example of a Fall-vibe in a more muted tone than the edit above, we will replicate the image featured below:

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Before we even get started, in the Layers panel, duplicate the Background (main) layer and work on that. As a rule of thumb, never work on the original layer and make all adjustments on a new layer. This helps you remedy mistakes, give you the flexibility to change your mind, and use masks to remove the effect from the parts of the image it shouldn’t apply to!

Hue/Saturation

The term ‘saturation’ in general describes the level at which something is absorbed. For example, a sponge heavily saturated with water. In photography, saturation refers to how pure a color is. How red is red? How blue is blue? You can imagine a color  “absorbed” in the photograph like a sponge, with a higher saturation resulting in a more significant color.

Hue is a color attribute that explains how discernible a color is to its true color (for example, how green is the green?). Hue is based on color wavelength and is completely independent of a color’s lightness or darkness and intensity.

You can use the Hue/Saturation slider in the Image > Adjustments window!

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

Where it says “Master” (which will adjust everything simultaneously) you can select individual colors to adjust. This is great to use on images that don’t involve a lot of color variation.

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes

Selective Color

The Selective Color in Photoshop (also located in Image -> Adjustments) is similar to the HSL sliders in Lightroom. Selective Color allows you to modify each color (located in the drop-down menu under “Color”) by either adding or decreasing CMYK colors (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black). CMYK is the color mode that a printer operates in.

I like using Selective Color with images that feature a lot of white because I don’t necessarily want my whites toned the same as the rest of my image. You can adjust the white itself in Selective Color, which is pretty cool. This allows me to keep the white dog more authentic to the original rather than making the Great Dane orange.

How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes how-to-make-your-images-have-fall-vibes

Color Balance

Another way to adjust the colors in the image is by utilizing the Color Balance sliders. This can also be located under Image -> Adjustments. Color balance is the global adjustment of the intensity of the colors. This what I use the most when trying to create some fall vibes in my photographs.

I prefer this method because it’s the fastest slider set to use – but the end result does tend to look a lot like a filter. If that’s the look you’re going for; awesome! But if not, Selective Color may be of better use to you.

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Conclusion

Whatever method you implore to make your images more Autumn oriented, enjoy those warm fall vibes and glow up that Instagram feed!

Do you have other tips on giving your images fall vibes? Try these methods and share your images with us in the comments below!

The post How to Make Your Images Have Fall Vibes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


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