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Weekly Photography Challenge – Halloween

26 Oct

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Halloween appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is HALLOWEEN!

Image: Photo by Jon McIntire

Photo by Jon McIntire

Seeing as though it is the week of Halloween, I decided to make that the weekly photography challenge this week. If there is no Halloween celebrations where you live, then just take some spooky photos and share with us!

So go out and shoot those spooky things that pop up for Halloween! Decorations, black cats, pumpkins, witches, creepy houses, trick or treaters, or anything that is spooky and resembles Halloween. Alternatively, shoot images of people setting up for Halloween.

Have fun (or get spooky), and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!

Image: David Menidrey

David Menidrey

Image: James Lee

James Lee

Image: Jen Theodore

Jen Theodore

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting HALLOWEEN

26 Spooky Images for Halloween Week

Creating Ghostly Images for Halloween

How to Light Creepy Halloween Masks for Added Drama

27 Sinister Images for the Week of Halloween

5 Tips for Creating Creepy Halloween Photos

Halloween Photography Tips

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – HALLOWEEN

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPShalloween2019 to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Halloween appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Here are our first samples from the Nikon Z 58mm 0.95 ‘Noct’

26 Oct

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We’re on the ground at the Photoplus trade show in New York City, where we’ve had the chance to shoot a few samples with a working version of Nikon’s $ 8000 58mm F0.95 ‘Noct’ lens, while on the show floor. Check them out above – we’ll add more the first chance we get. And don’t forget to read our hands-on here.

See our initial Nikon Z 58mm 0.95 ‘Noct’ samples

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Netflix certifies the Panasonic S1H for productions, making it the smallest (and only stills/video) camera on the list

26 Oct

Panasonic’s full-frame S1H full-frame mirrorless camera has been certified as a Netflix primary camera and is now part of the Netflix Post Technology Alliance. This recognition means productions are now able to use the relatively affordable S1H as a main camera, so long as the footage is captured within a range of formats and settings.

As laid out in Netflix’s camera production guide, the S1H needs to be shot in at least 4K (3840 x 2160 pixels or 4096 x 2160 pixels) in V-Log with 4:2:2 10-bit All-I (400Mbps) encoding and pixel-for-pixel readout in either full-frame or Super 35 modes.

The capture settings Netflix is requiring of the S1H, according to the camera production guide linked above.

Other specific requirements within the production guide include Noise Reduction be set to zero and sharpening be set to zero, while less-strict recommendations include turning off diffraction compensation and vignetting compensation. Additional suggestions include using the S1H’s Pixel Refresh setting at least yearly, using the sensor cleaning feature and making sure the firmware is always up to date.

Currently, there are no current Netflix Original productions using the S1H, ‘to the best of [Panasonic’s] knowledge,’ but having the full-frame mirrorless camera available as an approved camera should draw massive appeal for smaller operations where budget is more a factor. Yes, $ 4000 for a single camera body isn’t cheap, but it’s easily the most affordable camera on Netflix’s approved list, which includes the like of ARRI’s Alexa LF, Canon C700, RED Weapon Dragon 8K And Sony F55 camera systems.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Samyang AF 14mm F2.8 RF arrives as the first third-party Canon RF autofocus lens

26 Oct

Samyang has introduced the first third-party autofocus lens for Canon RF mount, the Samyang AF 14mm F2.8 RF. The new model joins the company’s similar AF 14mm F2.8 lens for Canon EF, featuring a 113.9-degree wide angle of view (89.8-degree APS-C) thanks to 14 elements in 10 groups, including one high-reflective element, two extra-low dispersion elements and three aspherical elements.

Samyang says it ‘optimized’ the new AF 14mm F2.8 RF lens design so that it is compact enough for use with mirrorless cameras. The model measures 95.3mm (3.7in) in length and weighs 484g (1lbs). The lens is weather-sealed and includes a rear filter holder, AF-MF switch, and an optical design intended to ‘adjust the light flow and reduce the aberration.’

Specs:

  • Aperture range: F2.8 – F22
  • Construction: 14 Elements in 10 groups
  • Coating UMC
  • Min focusing distance: 0.20m (0.66ft)
  • Max magnification ratio: x0.12
  • Number of blades: 7
  • Angle of view: 35mm 113.9?/ APS-C 89.8?
  • Max diameter ?86mm

Below is a gallery of sample images provided by Samyang:

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The Samyang AF 14mm F2.8 RF will be released globally in November; price hasn’t been revealed at this time.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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These are the winning photographs of the 2019 Nikon Small World photography competition

25 Oct

2019 Nikon Small World photography competition

The winning photographs of the 2019 Nikon Small World have been revealed, showcasing an incredible collection of shots captured in the contest’s 45th year.

Founded in 1974, Nikon Small World aims ‘to recognize excellence in photography through the microscope’ and ‘is widely regarded as the leading forum for recognizing the art, proficiency and photographic excellence involved in photomicrography,’ in Nikon’s own words. Below is a list of the judges for this year’s competition:

  • Dr. Denisa Wagner, Edwin Cohn Professor of Pediatrics at Harvard Medical School and the head of the Wagner Lab at Boston Children’s Hospital.
  • Dr. Rita Strack, Senior Editor at Nature Methods.
  • Tom Hale, Staff Writer at IFLScience.
  • Ben Guarino, Science Reporter at The Washington Post.
  • Eric Clark (Moderator): Research Coordinator and Applications Developer at the National High Magnetic Field Laboratory at Florida State University.

Over 2000 entries were submitted for the 2019 competition from scientists in nearly 100 countries. After being ‘evaluated on originality, information content, technical proficiency and visual impact,’ microscopy technician Teresa Zgoda and university graduate Teresa Kugler took home first prize for their incredible capture of a turtle embryo that was created using fluorescence and stereo microscopy. The image is a result of the duo taking hundreds of images and stacking them together to create the final image, ‘as the organism’s size meant only very small parts of the turtle could be imaged on the focal plane at a time,’ according to Nikon’s press release.

We’ve rounded up the top 15 images from the contest and shared them in the following gallery to enjoy. Images and information were kindly provided to DPReview through Nikon Small World.

1st Place

1st Place — Teresa Zgoda & Teresa Kugler, Fluorescent turtle embryo

Location: Campbell Hall, New York, USA

Methodology: Stereomicroscopy, Fluorescence, 5x (Objective Lens Magnification)

2nd Place

2nd Place —Dr. Igor Siwanowicz, Depth-color coded projections of three stentors (single-cell freshwater protozoans)

Location: Ashburn, Virginia, USA

Methodology: Confocal, 40x (Objective Lens Magnification)

3rd Place

3rd Place — Daniel Smith Paredes & Dr. Bhart-Anjan S. Bhullar, Alligator embryo developing nerves and skeleton

Location: New Haven, Connecticut, USA

Methodology: Immunofluorescence, 10x (Objective Lens Magnification)

4th Place

4th Place — Jan Rosenboom, Male mosquito

Location: Rostock, Mecklenburg Vorpommern, Germany

Methodology: Focus stacking, 6.3x (Objective Lens Magnification)

5th Place

5th Place — Caleb Foster, Snowflake

Location: Jericho, Vermont, USA

Methodology: Transmitted Light, 4x (Objective Lens Magnification)

6th Place

6th Place — Javier Rupérez, Small white hair spider

Location: Almáchar, Málaga, Spain

Methodology: Reflected Light, Image Stacking, 20x (Objective Lens Magnification)

7th Place

7th Place — Dr. Guillermo López, Chinese red carnation stamen

Location: Alicante, Spain

Methodology: Focus Stacking, 3x (Objective Lens Magnification)

8th Place

8th Place — Garzon Christian, Frozen water droplet

Location: Quintin, Cotes-d’Armor, France

Methodology: Incident Light, 8x (Objective Lens Magnification)

9th Place

9th Place — Andrei Savitski, Tulip bulb cross section

Location: Cherkassy, Ukraine

Methodology: Reflected Light, 1x (Objective Lens Magnification)

10th Place

10th Place — Jason M. Kirk, BPAE cells in telophase stage of mitosis

Location: Houston, Texas, USA

Methodology: Confocal with Enhanced Resolution, 63x (Objective Lens Magnification)

11th Place

11th Place — Dr. Yujun Chen & Dr. Jocelyn McDonald, A pair of ovaries from an adult Drosophila female stained for F-actin (yellow) and nuclei (green); follicle cells are marked by GFP (magenta)

Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA

Methodology: Confocal, 10x (Objective Lens Magnification)

12th Place

12th Place — Anne Algar, Mosquito larva

Location: Hounslow, Middlesex, United Kingdom

Methodology: Darkfield, Polarizing Light, Image Stacking, 4x (Objective Lens Magnification)

13th Place

13th Place — Dr. Emilio Carabajal Márquez, Cuprite (mineral composed of copper oxide)

Location: Madrid, Spain

Methodology: Focus Stacking, 20x (Objective Lens Magnification)

14th Place

14th Place — Antoine Franck, Femail Oxyopes dumonti (lynx) spider

Location: Saint Pierre, Réunion

Methodology: Focus Stacking, 1x (Objective Lens Magnification)

15th Place

15thPlace — Marek Mi?, Pregnant Daphnia magna (small planktonic crustacean)

Location: Suwalki, Podlaskie, Poland

Methodology: Modified Darkfield, Polarized Light, Image Stacking, 4x (Objective Lens Magnification)

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Getting great sound for video: an introduction

25 Oct

Great audio and video complement each other

Great sound is important, at least as important as the video. I don’t know about you but I’m more intolerant of poor audio than bad video. Clipped or distorted audio is much more distracting than overexposed or out of focus video. I’m always amazed watching documentaries from 40+ years ago, the audio sounds great, even if the film has seen better days.

In the early days of using domestic DV camcorders for professional production (Sony DCR VX-1000) a lot more had to be done to mod the sound side of the camera than the video side. The pictures were just about acceptable but the sound side of the camera was lacking, no XLR inputs and no easy to use manual controls. The audio side of the industry changes a lot slower than the video side, every couple of years there’s a new video codec or standard but with audio the pace of change is much slower.

The audio side of production isn’t as sexy as the video. You can end up spending thousands of dollars on the camera because the pictures look nice and it’s the latest trend but the audio side is often relegated to second place or below.

What we’re going to be looking at here is the best way to get great audio for your video, we’re going to be looking at some of the technical aspects but also some of the practical considerations as well.

Microphone selection

Making the right choice of microphone is a key first step.

While I don’t want to over stress the technical requirements, selecting the right microphone for a given situation is important. There are a lot of mics out there and the choice can be confusing but it helps to know which type of mic is suited to which situation. There’s no point using a short shotgun mic to record your on-screen talent walking and talking through a crowded street towards camera, you won’t hear them well until they get close to the camera.

Mics should be selected on the way that they pick up audio and also the way they reject unwanted sounds. There are 3 basic types: omnidirectional, unidirectional and bidirectional.

Omnidirectional

Omnidirectional microphones pick up from all around but usually with some frequency fall off at the rear. Lapel mics are a prime example of an omnidirectional pickup pattern.

Lapel microphones are one common type of omnidirectional mic.

Unidirectional

Popular patterns include cardioid, super cardioid and hypercardioid. All of these are very much biased toward pick up from the front of the mic with varying amounts of fall off when off to the side. Shotgun mics employ these capsules for great off-axis rejection of audio.

A shotgun mic like this Sennheiser MKH-70 picks up mostly from the front. Be careful about placement, though, as it will also pick up some sound from the rear

Bidriectional

Also known as a figure of 8 pattern – great for studio work, 1-on-1 interviews. Some popular podcasting mics offer this as an option like the Blue Yeti.

A figure of 8 pattern pickup, note the null area right in front of the mic.

There are also combinations of mics that allow stereo recording, sometimes a matched pair in AB recording and sometimes a combination that allow MS (Mid-Side) recording. Using MS is a lot more involved as you also have to use a mixer/recorder that supports it and consider if the post production software you are using can work with it.

Short stereo gun mics like this Sennheiser MKE440 offer better audio than built in mics, although some headphones would be useful here!

Dynamic or condenser?

Within these main mic categories you will also encounter the terms dynamic and condenser; it’s important to know that dynamic mics don’t require power but condenser mics do. You won’t get any audio from a condenser mic if you can’t provide power to it, this is sometimes achieved down the cable from the camera or mixer (phantom power) or via an internal battery.

Now that you’ve chosen your mics, what are some of the practical considerations when recording sound?

Wind noise

Wind noise can ruin your audio; avoid or reduce it rather than relying on post production fixes.

Even if you have the best mic in the world the recording it makes can easily be ruined by wind. There’s more of this around than you think; it’s something that doesn’t bother you because your ears and brain filter it out, but can cause real problems for your microphone. Sometimes there are options in camera and audio recorder menus to reduce wind noise but you shouldn’t rely on this as it’s selecting a high pass filter and it’s just not as good as reducing the wind across the mic capsule itself. Make sure you take something physical with you to reduce it.

Even if you have the best mic in the world the recording it makes can easily be ruined by wind.

A simple foam cover will do virtually nothing, so don’t rely on it. However you can benefit from these covers indoors, they can reduce noise when swinging a boom as effectively you are creating air turbulence across the mic when you move it. In this scenario a foam cover may suffice, it’s less visually distracting and introduces less audio frequency coloration than a dead cat.

A foam cover can be effective indoors for reducing noise across the mic when swinging a boom but it virtually useless outdoors.

A dead cat, one of the best ways of reducing wind noise, also available for lapel mics.

A basket, combined with a dead cat and even a foam cover can give great results but requires care when handling as it’s easy to damage.

A proper dead cat will help a great deal outdoors as long as it’s properly used, and make sure it’s maintained. There’s a reason that you sometimes find a hairbrush in the box when you buy one, use it as a matted one does not work well. Oh and don’t wrap spare cables around it, either in storage or in use!

A proper basket or blimp works wonders and the longer hair covers are even better in high wind, however you may find that you never need something like this.

Monitoring

The often used Sennheiser HD-25 headphones. Great isolation and good comfort.

How do you know that you’re recording? The red light on the camera or ‘Rec’ on the LCD screen, yes that helps but what about audio? Usually an on-screen level meter will give a good indication but that doesn’t guarantee what you are recording is any good, or even what you intend to. It only tells you what level you’re recording at.

A decent set of headphones is required, even a cheap set of ear buds will do in an emergency but you need to listen. You also need to teach yourself what to listen for, what’s going to hurt your recording and what you can safely ignore.

Be careful which socket you plug your headphones into, I’ve known multiple people who’ve plugged the headphones into the mic socket and vice versa. You do get some audio but headphones don’t make the best microphones!

Want more audio recording tips? This video from DPReview TV shows what happens when you have a great mic but poor mic placement compared to what happens when you use cheap mic with great placement.

Like photography, limit background disturbances, you can sometimes eliminate or reduce issues in post but it’s always better to not record them in the first place.

Clocks, AC, refrigerators, fans, traffic, construction work and aircraft are not your friends. Be realistic though, don’t stop a recording every few minutes because you can detect some background noise 2 streets away. If the noise is relevant to your video and you can include a shot showing it then of course there’s no problem.

Clocks, AC, refrigerators, fans, traffic, construction work and aircraft are not your friends.

Constant low level hum is usually OK, jack hammers are not. You sometimes have to change location or position to get better audio, maybe even paying construction workers to stop for 30 minutes if there’s no other option.

A lot of this can be reduced if not eliminated in the edit but it’s more work and often the results are far from satisfactory unless you have the time, the tools and the skills to deal with it.

Dual system or in camera recording?

An separate audio recorder can give you better quality and flexibility but might not be needed.

Separate audio recording is popular but not always necessary. If the camera has good, low noise pre-amps and decent limiters then it might be feasible to forgo an external recorder. There are issues here however, can you record multiple mics and have individual level control over each one? A built in camera limiter sometimes acts across both channels at the same time, far from ideal. What about the connections? Usually these use 3.5mm plugs and sockets and it’s very easy to break these especially if the cable gets pulled at an angle.

There are lots of other considerations as well, an external recorder can give you more tracks and the new Zoom F6 with it’s 32bit float recording means that precise level setting is not required.

If using an external recorder, how easy is the syncing going to be? Are you using timecode or a clapperboard to sync, are you recording using the on-board camera mic as well to help sync automatically in post? Built in tools in editing software have improved vastly over the years but it’s not faultless.

Wireless

Wireless systems like the Sennheiser AVX have got simpler and cheaper over the last few years and can offer lots of possibilities

Wireless mics are a key tool when recording sound, you may not need them for every shoot but they can offer enormous flexibility. They are great when everything works but can be a real pain to troubleshoot when it doesn’t. However recent developments with wireless systems that don’t need complex set up has cut down the issues, like the Sennheiser XSW and the Rode Wireless Go.

Of course wireless systems aren’t only limited for use with lapel mics, they can also be used with booms and to send audio from mixing desks in theatrical locations. Just make sure that you’re not using other people’s frequencies when using a UHF system and you have the input gain set correctly if using a line level output.

Wireless systems can be really useful when using a boom.

That’s not to say that you won’t encounter problems. Always carry spares, cables, batteries and mics if possible. If the failure of one thing in the chain will jeopardize your shoot make sure you have a way round it. It’s good practice for lots of things but because of the complexity of the audio chain it’s especially true for good sound. Try recording more than one mic if possible that way you have a backup in case the mic fails mid shot.

Technique

How you use microphones is as important as which ones you use. Get the mic as close as you can without it being in shot, unless you want it to be. Use the right mic – boom, static or handheld.

Sometimes getting good audio might mean that the mic has to be seen, sometimes you can disguise it. If you place a black lapel mic on a black shirt it might be possible to remove it in post but you need to consider is the quality of sound more important than the cleanliness of the shot?

Hiding mics isn’t always easy, you can pick up clothing noise if you aren’t careful.

Hiding lapel mics under clothing can be time consuming. It may need a few attempts to minimize rustle and the type of attachment and clothing is a big consideration. You can often spot a lapel mic hidden under clothing, especially if it’s underneath a light colored T-Shirt.

A lapel mic might not be the most appropriate; could you use a boom instead? Sit down interviews for example are often best recorded with a mic on a boom pole and stand slung over head just out of shot. This eliminates clothing rustle and the possibility that the interviewee will touch the mic or walk away with it – yes it does happen. This can be especially useful if you are recording multiple interviews in the same location or if your subject is really pushed for time.

One word of caution though, make sure that the mic doesn’t slowly dip into shot unnoticed. A small piece of light colored tape around the tip of the foam cover can help here.

Check your kit, make sure everything works

Audio Checklist

Take the right mic – There are different mics for different situations, don’t use a long shotgun mic in a small car.

Reduce noise – Use a dead cat outdoors to reduce wind noise, noisy environments should be avoided if it doesn’t relate to the subject.

Listen – Use good headphones for best results and don’t rely only on meters, make sure you’re getting good clean sound not something you can just about hear.

Single or Dual system? – Dual gives more options but can be more complicated.

Wireless – Newer systems that don’t involve setting frequencies are easy to use but are more limited in range, take a backup just in case something goes wrong.

Technique – The closer the mic is to the source (without distorting) the better the audio will be, sometimes hiding a mic under clothing doesn’t give good results.

Keep it simple

If you are just starting out all this may seem very daunting, there’s a lot to think about especially if you are doing everything by yourself. If you can employ someone with more sound experience to help, at least to start with, you’ll learn a lot. There’ll be someone there with more knowledge who will be more valuable to you that just another pair of hands.

My advice would be to keep things simple to start with and give yourself some extra time just in case things don’t go to plan… it hardly ever does.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DxO PhotoLab 3 brings improved repair tools, local adjustment masks and new camera support

25 Oct

DxO has launched DxO PhotoLab 3, the latest version of the company’s photo editing software. The new version of PhotoLab brings new and improved tools, including an optimized Repair Tool and entirely new Local Adjustments Masks Manager, as well as support for keyword searches in PhotoLibrary and new camera support.

PhotoLab 3 introduces a new color adjustment mode as part of the software’s Hue, Saturation, and Luminance (HSL) Tool, one that is based on the DxO ColorWheel. With the tool, users are able to choose color ranges from eight separate channels, according to the company, as well as replacement colors and more.

Joining the ColorWheel is the new Local Adjustments Masks Manager, which enables users to manage an image’s layered local correction masks. This control includes individually adjusting opacity, reversing selected masks, and more.

Below is a brief rundown of the new features from photographer Robin Whalley:

Beyond that, PhotoLab’s Repair Tool, which allows users to scrub specific elements from an image, has also been ‘optimized’ to include a new Clone Mode and support for manually repositioning the tool’s source area. Both Repair Tool modes include support for opacity adjustment and feathering.

As mentioned, the software’s PhotoLibrary has also been updated to include keyword searches and management. The PhotoLibrary now shows image keywords in the interface, plus there’s the ability to add, rename, and delete keywords, including for multiple images at once. At this time, support for keywords in multi-criteria searches is only available on the macOS version of the software, but DxO says it will bring the same functionality to the Windows version soon.

DxO is offering PhotoLab 3 Essential and Elite Editions for Mac and PC at discounted prices until November 24:

  • DxO PhotoLab 3 Essential Edition: €99.99 / £86.99 / $ 99.99
  • DxO PhotoLab 3 Elite Edition: €149.99 / £129.99 / $ 149.99

DxO PhotoLab 3: The most colourful upgrade yet

DxO, one of the most innovative companies in the photography and image editing industry, is announcing its latest version of DxO PhotoLab, the most advanced photo editing software on the market in terms of image quality. With its completely redesigned HSL colour adjustment feature, optimized Repair Tool, and brand-new Local Adjustments Masks Manager, DxO PhotoLab 3 offers an exceptional level of colorimetry control, making the photographer’s job easier than ever before. Because the DxO PhotoLibrary now supports keyword searches, it offers an even more comprehensive workflow and improved compatibility with other photo editing software programs.

A new approach to adjusting colour

With its innovative and visual approach to colour management, DxO PhotoLab 3’s HSL (Hue, Saturation, and Luminance) Tool offers unparalleled control so you can produce even more natural- looking or creative images. It features a new colour adjustment mode based on a chromatic circle called the DxO ColorWheel. With this tool, you can select a colour range from eight different channels, fine-tune the value, select a replacement colour, and adjust your transitions to your heart’s desire. A new Uniformity setting also lets you adjust colour variations within a specific range. The Saturation and Luminance sliders now operate more independently, which offers more flexibility, especially when converting from colour to black and white and creating partially desaturated images.

“With the DxO ColorWheel, we were looking to create a new approach that could make colour management both flexible and fun. This tool is incredibly user friendly,” says Jean-Marc Alexia, VP Marketing & Product Strategy at DxO.

A Repair Tool that offers even more control

DxO PhotoLab 3 continues to improve its local adjustments options to offer users even more precision. One of these features, the Repair Tool, which acts as a brush that can erase unwanted elements from the image, has been updated. You can now manually reposition the area in the source image that you want to use to reconstruct an area in the image being edited. In addition to Repair Mode, DxO PhotoLab 3 also offers Clone Mode, which lets you directly replace the area you are editing. Feathering and opacity level can also be adjusted in both modes.

New Local Adjustments Masks Manager

DxO PhotoLab 3’s new Local Adjustments palette lets you manage local correction masks that have been layered within a single image. Make them visible, mask them, or adjust their opacity individually. The tool also lets you reverse the selected mask with a single click, adding additional flexibility and saving a significant amount of time.

A more complete workflow through keywords

In addition to the search criteria that are already available in the DxO PhotoLibrary (metadata, shooting parameters, folders, etc.), DxO PhotoLab 3 now offers keyword management and optimizes image organization all the way up to export. The keywords associated with an image can now be displayed in the interface, including when they are imported from other software programs. You can now add, delete, or rename keywords for one or multiple images simultaneously and include them in multi-criteria searches (macOS version only; this feature will be available in the Windows version in the near future). DxO PhotoLab 3 also offers more complete information and metadata display options as well as additional Projects management options.

New camera support

DxO PhotoLab 3 continues to add new cameras to the list of equipment it supports. It recently added the Canon G5 X Mark II and G7 X Mark III, the Nikon P1000, the Panasonic Lumix DC- G90/G95/G99/G91, the Lumix DC FZ1000 II and Lumix TZ95/ZS80, the Ricoh GR III, and the Sony A7R IV and RX100 VII. More than 3,000 optical modules have also been added to the database, which now includes over 50,000 different camera/lens combinations. The software’s de-noising capabilities for RAW photos taken with certain Canon and Olympus cameras has been improved as well.

Price & availability

The ESSENTIAL and ELITE editions of DxO PhotoLab 3 (PC and Mac) are now available for download on DxO’s website for the following launch prices until November 24, 2019:

page2image570121568

DxO PhotoLab 3 ESSENTIAL Edition: DxO PhotoLab 3 ELITE Edition:

DxO PhotoLab 3 ESSENTIAL Edition: DxO PhotoLab 3 ELITE Edition:

DxO PhotoLab 3 ESSENTIAL Edition: DxO PhotoLab 3 ELITE Edition:

€99.99 instead of €129 €149.99 instead of €199

£86.99 instead of £112 £129.99 instead of £169

$ 99.99 instead of $ 129 $ 149.99 instead of $ 199

You do not need a subscription to use DxO PhotoLab 3. You can install the program on two computers with the DxO PhotoLab 3 ESSENTIAL Edition or on three computers with the DxO PhotoLab 3 ELITE Edition. Photographers with a license for DxO OpticsPro or DxO PhotoLab 2 can purchase an upgrade license for DxO PhotoLab 3 by signing into their customer account on www.dxo.com. A fully-functional, one-month trial version of DxO PhotoLab 3 is available on the DxO website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography

25 Oct

The post What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

successful-restaurant-photography

If you want to be a food photographer, you’ll likely start your career shooting restaurant photography. This is how most food photographers get their start. Restaurants have smaller budgets, so they’re open to working with new photographers.

However, photographing for restaurants isn’t that easy. Not only do you have to be skilled at shooting food, but you also need to be able to shoot interiors and portraits of the chef and other staff.

Restaurant photography can be a lot of work, and there are a lot of ins-and-outs you should know to make sure you don’t end up getting burned by this very specific type of shoot.

What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography

Ask for a shot list

Before you can give a potential client an estimate, you need to know what you’ll be photographing in order to estimate how long the shoot will take you. For example, beverages can take longer to photograph than a plate of food, as managing reflections in glass can take time and be challenging.

You should base your estimates on the project scope. If you can’t estimate how long the shoot will take you, you can’t price your services accordingly. Get a breakdown of how many food images will be required, how many drinks etc.

Some restaurants want you to bring in your own surfaces, dishes, linens etc. for a more magazine editorial feel. In this case, note that it will take longer to shoot this type of scene than it will shooting their own dishes on the restaurant tables.

Scout for the location and light

Check out the location beforehand so you know what you’ll be up against in terms of lighting. You’ll also need to figure out where to set up your equipment and workspace. This should be done with agreement from the manager or proprietor.

It’s important that if the restaurant is open when you shoot, that you’re as unobtrusive to the patrons as possible. See if the client can close off a section of the restaurant where you can work without bothering anyone, and vice versa. 

successful-restaurant-photography

Discuss styling the food

When shooting for restaurants, you should make clear on the outset that you’re not a food stylist and therefore are not responsible for how the food looks.

Food styling is a different occupation. It requires a separate skill set from photography. Your job is the lighting and image capture, not the plating of the food.

Of course, you should always be aware of garnishes and stray crumbs, and generally, make sure the food looks its best for the camera. I’ve been known to send back a sloppy looking burger or two.

The point is that clients need to make sure their chef is up to the task. Otherwise, they should hire a food stylist to guide them. A food stylist can be pricey and not feasible for an already tight budget. In the case that a client refuses to hire one, they should know that the look of the food on the plate ultimately falls on them.

Make sure you state this in your contract. You have a contract, right?

What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography

Bring a food styling kit and some basic props

While you won’t be plating and styling the food, you should still bring along a basic food styling kit that includes items such as tweezers, cotton swabs, and small brushes to tame errant garnishes or clean unwanted crumbs and drips from the plate. You want to do the best job you can with what you’re given.

It’s a good idea to come prepared with some props as back up. Bring a stack of linens in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and maybe some cutlery. Sometimes clients want their own tables, flatware, and dishes shot as they are experienced by the patrons, but many have a branding direction in mind that requires a specific look or ambiance. 

For example, when clients wanted me to create dark and moody images for them, I bring in small, dark dishes and vintage cutlery – the opposite of the large, white dishes you see in most restaurants. 

successful-restaurant-photography

Use a tripod

If you shoot only in natural light, be aware that most restaurants are too dark for food photography.

You’ll need to shoot by a window and use a tripod so you can decrease your shutter speed and make a longer exposure. This won’t work for photographing people, however, as they will be blurry with a slow shutter speed.

If the images will only appear on the web or in social media, you can crank up the ISO and fix the noise in your images later in post-production.

When I scout the location, I try to take a few test shots and see how they look in Lightroom before making my lighting decisions.

successful-restaurant-photography

Shoot horizontally

Have a conversation with the client about how they would like the images shot. Most restaurants only need images for their website. Interactive web design often requires that images be shot in landscape orientation.

If the client will be printing some of the images on a menu, this may require a vertical format (and a higher resolution). Make sure to discuss the best picture orientation with the client. Make note that if they want both, it can take you up to twice as long to shoot the images, as not only will you have to adjust the camera, but you’ll have to recompose each image.

Shoot tethered 

I always hook up my camera to a laptop so the client can view the images captured by my camera. Shooting tethered allows you to see a larger, more accurate rendition of your shot than you can get from the screen on the back of your camera. You can use Lightroom or Capture One Pro for tethering. Make sure you have a high-quality tethering cord. 

What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography

Work with the client

Ultimately, you want to produce good work that makes the client happy. For this, the client needs to be involved in the process. They must be present at the shoot to provide creative direction and approve the images that are captured. That way, they can’t come back and tell you they don’t like them, or that they don’t align with the branding or aesthetic they had in mind.

I have a clause in my contract stating that I will not begin a shoot without someone representing the restaurant present. Also that the client will forfeit the deposit if I need to pack up my things and leave. Believe me, you don’t want to get into this situation. 

Collaborate with the chef

Involve the chef in the process as much as possible. When you make an appointment to scout the location, ask if you could meet the chef.

Making the chef feel like an important part of the process can make a big difference in the outcome of your shoot. The shoots that end up being the most easy and fun are the ones where the chef is enthusiastic about working with you and making the food look its best for its moment in the spotlight.

What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography

In conclusion

One more thing. Before you set foot in the restaurant with your camera, make sure you have liability insurance. Many restaurants won’t always think about this, but bigger clients will often ask for proof of liability insurance. If someone trips over an extension or tethering cord and decides to sue the restaurant, you can be included in that lawsuit. 

Shop around for the best insurance for you, and read the fine print carefully. You need insurance that is specific to the photography industry so you can make sure you’re covered in the types of situations you will be faced with.

You should also insure your equipment against theft, loss, and damage, including that from fire or flood.

Restaurant photography can be a great way to start building up your professional portfolio. Just make sure to do it right to avoid any headaches along the way, and to get your clients to hire you as their preferred photographer whenever they update their menu.

Do you have any other tips or experiences you’d like to share with us about Restaurant Photography? Do so in the comments!

The post What You Need to Know to do Successful Restaurant Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.


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Elinchrom launches new Rotagrid accessory for its signature Rotalux softbox line

25 Oct

Elinchrom has unveiled Rotagrids, a new lineup of add-on grids designed specifically for the company’s Rotalux softboxes. As is the case for most every grid modifier, the Rotagrid accessories create a more direct light for greater control while also minimizing light spill.

The Rotagrid attachments offer 30-degree beam angle grids and are made from what Elinchrom describes as a lightweight but durable fabric that will hold its shape over time. The grid uses hook and loop fasteners to attach to the front of Rotalux softboxes and can be stored in a pouch when not in use.

Elinchrom is offering the Rotagrid modifiers in every shape and size for the Rotalux softbox line, including the Octa, Square, Strip and other shapes. Prices vary based on the model; the smaller 35 x 100cm (14 x 35in) Rotagrid Strip, for example, is priced at $ 79 / €69, whereas the large Rotagrid Octa 135cm (69in) is priced at $ 249 / €199.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today’s Digital World

25 Oct

The post Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today’s Digital World appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

photo-books

Imagine the internet never existed. I know – you’re reading this while on the internet – but bear with me. As a photographer, how would you show your photographs to other people? There would be no Instagram, no Flickr, no Facebook. The reality of this fictional internetless world would leave you with limited outlets for your work. In short, you would have to find a way to physically park your photos in front of the eyes of other humans. Galleries would certainly be an option; magazines and journal publications would be another. Of course, there would be another option; the construction of a photo book.

Aside from a solo exhibition, there is perhaps no better way for a photographer to express their exact creative vision than with a well-executed photo book. Even in today’s elevated climate of digital photography, photo books have managed to keep their foothold as one of the most impactful methods of distributing photographs to the masses, all the while maintaining allegiance to the original photographs as we meant for them to be viewed.

Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today's Digital World

Photo books aren’t nearly as prevalent (or produced) as they once were. However, if you are truly serious about yourself and the photographs you produce, then a photo book might be a wonderful conduit for you to express your photographs – I know it was for me. As paradoxical as it might sound, producing photo books today has never been easier.

In this article, we’ll look at some of the reasons, methods, and considerations you might want to examine if you’ve ever felt the need for something more than just condensing your photographs into social media posts and online galleries.

But…why a book?

We’ve already touched on some of the other ways that you might present your work to the public, so why are photo books so special? Well, it comes down to control, fidelity to your original vision, and the importance you place on both.

Photographs are finite in their original incarnations, meaning there was a time when you didn’t always have to guess how your photos would appear on the different devices. Even photos in widely-circulated publications like magazines would essentially be faithful to whatever the final press copy of the image might have been.

Herein lies the immense benefit of photo books; they are an end in themselves.

Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today's Digital World

With final archival quality of inks, papers and bindings, and even the varied perception of our own eyes aside, a photo book can be your final say on how your work should look. Much like a print, the extent of your involvement in the production process of your photo book (more on this shortly) means you can virtually maintain complete discretion on how people view your images.

This means that a person in Singapore will see the same colors and contrasts a person viewing your photo in Australia, Canada, or Wales.

Three stages of producing your photo book

I’ve condensed the steps of producing a photo book into three broad sections. That being said, a book could be written on each one of the steps themselves. So, we’ll just hit the high points.

1. The inception of the Idea

Of course, this is where any photo book should begin. With some extremely rare exceptions, your photo book should revolve around a central theme or concept. It could be something you care passionately about photographing or something you want to learn more about and show the world. The weird thing about ideas is that they are notoriously fluid, meaning that even though you have a general direction to aim your energy (and your camera), you should remain open to the organic evolution of your initial idea or concept for your book.

In the case of my photo book, “Faces of Grayson,” I initially had no intention of producing a book at all. I was just a person out in the wilderness with a camera. It was only after I examined a few of my images that I instantly knew I wanted to do more with the subject matter and eventually produce a book.

Image: The photo that started it all.

The photo that started it all.

Unless your photo book is strictly for your own personal use and enjoyment, I’d suggest that you don’t approach your idea for your photo book in retrograde. It’s likely not a good practice to simply go through all your photos and force yourself to find a common theme. If you begin with a solid idea that you care about, you’ll ultimately end up with a more cohesive finished work.

We’ll talk a bit more about the actual shooting and choosing of the book images in the next section.

2. Compiling the images

We’ve touched briefly on how it’s usually not advisable to base your photo book on photos already in your image archive. It’s just not a good idea. So, once you’ve decided on the subject of your photo book, approach the acquisition of your content with a Zen-like state of relaxation. Don’t force the work, and don’t force yourself to produce the work quickly.

With that said, pay careful attention that you don’t forget that these images are specifically intended to be part of your photo book. You should always keep the overall theme, feel, and concept in line with your original idea even if that idea evolves along the way.

Don’t rush things

For my photo book, I shot images for roughly two years. In the end, I had a multitude of photos from which I could choose the absolute best.

There is no time limit for obtaining your images. Please, please, PLEASE don’t rush yourself. A rough estimate of when you would like to see your book finally come to life is perfectly healthy. Conversely, subjecting yourself to a self-imposed “deadline” is not. So if there’s one piece of advice I could give when it comes to shooting the photos for your book, it would be not to rush. Instead, be deliberate, take your time, and get it right the first time.

Sequencing your photos

After you’ve completed the principal photography work for your book, it’s time to put it all together. Ask yourself a few questions: Is your book a narrative? Does the story you want it to tell depend on the order of the images?

Some photo books work very well with sequential arrangements based on the chronology of time and the progression of the subject matter through that time. If this is the case for your photo book, then make sure how you assign your images to the pages conveys this dynamic to the viewer.

If your book is not a narrative and instead is more of a compilation of place or subject with no need for sequential ordering, then the arrangement of the photos become less important. However, it should still remain a focus of great consideration.

Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today's Digital World

Once you have completed the task of choosing and sequencing your photos, it’s time to choose layouts and fonts, image sizing and orientation. Also, chooses the amount of supplemental textual narration you wish to include (or not include) with the images.

The majority of this will be left to your discretion unless you conscript outside help from a designer. Deciding on the final flavor of the book is the most difficult and most exciting aspect of putting together any photo book.

3. Printing

All right. This is where things get truly slippery. You’ve completed work on obtaining the photos for an idea that you absolutely love. The images are outstanding, sequencing is beautiful, and you know every last detail of your final grand vision. It’s all going to be perfect!

Well, I’m sorry to break it to you…

It won’t be.

Yes, I know. That truth hints at an underlying pessimism, but it’s intended to be constructive. You see, the key to sustained success with your photography is to maintain a realistic handle on your expectations. If you enter the printing process believing nothing will go wrong, and there will be no unforeseen challenges, then you will be quite discouraged when these inevitable issues arise.

Now that’s out of the way, let’s look at some common (but not all) options you might have for getting your photo book printed.

Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today's Digital World

Print-on-demand

A commonplace service in the literary world, the print-on-demand model is perhaps the easiest and most cost-effective method for getting your photo book published and printed. It also involves the least investment on your part in terms of personal control.

Print-on-demand means just what the name implies; you provide the finished content design, and a printer/publisher/distributor will print a copy of the book each time a copy gets ordered. This is a wonderfully cost-effective way to print small or large numbers of your photo book with virtually no waste. Your book gets printed only when there is an order. Often this method also includes a free ISBN and other perks.

This is also a great option to get your photo book printed and sold with as little overhead as possible. However, there are some downsides to this process. Namely, you will have little or no creative control over paper types, bindings, inks, and other nuances of the book printing process.

Amazon, Blurb and a growing number of other well-known book merchants have begun offering these types of services to photographers wishing to get their photo books distributed to the masses. For users of Lightroom, you can design and send your book to Blurb direct from the Lightroom software too.

Traditional book printers

If you want to go big with your photo book endeavor and have the financial (and marketing) resources to sit at the table, then you might be interested to know that even independently published photographers can have extremely high-quality photo books printed which offer enormous creative control over virtually every aspect of the printing process. This means that you will usually be able to select paper types and binding materials along with physically proofing prints so that your photos look exactly the way you want them to display.

Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today's Digital World

Unfortunately, this isn’t always the most forgiving option for those who are creating their first photo book or have limited means for producing their published work. It involves the willingness to exercise ultimate creative judgment on all aspects of your book, which can be highly stressful. Furthermore, the majority of these types of printing firms have strict minimum printing runs for all printed books.

So, unless you need and are ready to store and distribute upwards of 1,000 copies of your book, this might not be the best route for your project. At the same time, if you do have the logistics in place and the demand is high enough for the quantity involved, the per-copy price of high-volume printers like these translates to relatively attractive profit margins when you consider the quality versus the cost of the product.

I went via this route with my first photo book. It involved organizing an overwhelmingly successful Kickstarter campaign along with a highly aggressive marketing strategy to source the funds I needed to cover the cost of printing. Would I do it again? Honestly, probably not, at least not this way, which brings me to our next option.

photo-books

Limited quantity printing

If you’re looking for a careful balance between precise creative control, costs, and volume, this is likely the best choice for your photo book.

You could easily call this printing method could easily “artisan” printing. It involves a low number of meticulously crafted books, often with finely curated materials and craftsmanship, which can be purveyed more as a personal statement than a mass-produced product.

Limited quantity printing is perfect for face-to-face marketing, where the photo book itself becomes an art piece. Printing costs are relatively high, so in most cases, quantities of twenty or more copies could become slightly awkward. However, books of this nature can demand higher sale prices from collectors and impassioned patrons, and rightfully so.

Value in the effort?

It might be difficult to believe, but there is so much more to say about the in’s and out’s of making a photo book; at least one that you intend to make for the enjoyment of others.

A photo book is more than just making photos and finding a way to bind them into pages. Is it worth it? Does the reward justify the risk? It depends. Have you felt strongly about your subject and feel equally compelled to make photographs of that subject which you then work to compile into a photo book? If so, you’ve already committed a piece of yourself to the project. Anything that carries that much personal investment is, by definition, a success.

So, yes, there is still value in photo books. In a sense, books such as these carry even more value today. We live in a world saturated by the instantaneous. Producing a photo book requires time, deliberate intent, and the willingness to slow yourself down to focus on your true goal.

Will your photo book sell a million copies? Well, it’s doubtful.

However, depending on your expectations, making a photo book could very well be the most memorable, rewarding, and ultimately challenging mission you ever undertake as a photographer. There truly is no other feeling than seeing your own book sitting on your shelf. Believe me.

 

 

The post Photo Books: Value and Worth in Today’s Digital World appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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