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  • Five Foot Lens and 3.2 Gigapixel Camera Produced for Night Sky Photos

    The post Five Foot Lens and 3.2 Gigapixel Camera Produced for Night Sky Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    Image: L1 Lens of the camera polished and coated with a broadband antireflective coating by Safran-R...

    L1 Lens of the camera polished and coated with a broadband antireflective coating by Safran-Reosc. LSST Project/NSF/AURA.

    Last month, engineers packaged up the largest optical lens ever created, before shipping it 17 hours from Tuscon, Arizona to the SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory in central California.

    The lens is five feet in diameter and four inches thick; it required a truck to transport it. It was attached to an additional (3.9 foot) lens element when shipped, and it will soon be followed by another.

    Together, these three lens elements will be mounted to a camera that, when finished, will be the largest digital camera in existence. And the camera-lens duo will ultimately be attached to a telescope: the Large Synoptic Survey Telescope, which is over ten years in the making.

    Note that the camera itself is constructed out of 189 sensors which, when combined, will create pictures of an astonishing size: 3.2 gigapixels. It’s still in production at the SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory, but will likely be finished in 2021. The cost of the camera alone is a whopping $ 168 million dollars.

    The purpose of this huge setup is to capture detailed photos of the night sky. The full telescope will be placed on Cherro Pachon mountain in Chile, where the camera will take exposures at 20-second intervals.

    As explained in a press release by one of the laboratories involved in the lens construction:

    This data will help researchers better understand dark matter and dark energy, which together make up 95 percent of the universe, but whose makeup remains unknown, as well as study the formation of galaxies, track potentially hazardous asteroids and observe exploding stars.

    We recently reported on Xiaomi’s 108-megapixel smartphone, with its wrap-around screen, but a 3.2-gigapixel camera blows this out of the water. Even a recently announced security camera, which made waves when it was unveiled at the China International Industry Fair, topped out at 500 megapixels. Equipped with facial recognition technology, there are major privacy concerns when it comes to how this may be used in a country that already heavily monitors its citizens.

    But, the high resolution of these cameras does bring to light something that is conveniently forgotten by tech advertisers: More megapixels will only produce greater detail if you have a lens that can resolve that detail. If your lens can only resolve 12 megapixels worth of detail, then you’re not going to gain from slapping a 108-megapixel sensor onto the camera. That’s why the Large Synoptic Survey Telescope requires ultra-precise optics if scientists want to gather meaningful data.

    Of course, you don’t need a lens costing millions of dollars to produce highly-detailed 108-megapixel photos. But my suspicion is that the current optics used by smartphones (Xiaomi, but also Huawei, Apple, and Google) just aren’t up to the task of generating 108-megapixel photos.

    So don’t fall prey to the megapixel myth. And keep your eye out for photos from the Large Synoptic Survey Telescope!

    What are your thoughts on these new lenses and cameras? Share with us in the comments!

    The post Five Foot Lens and 3.2 Gigapixel Camera Produced for Night Sky Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Redditor uncovers possible price of Sigma’s fp camera in product page source code

    Sigma hasn’t officially revealed the pricing of its fp full-frame mirrorless camera, but a clever Redditor discovered what is believed to be the price by looking through the source code of the fp product page on Sigma’s website.

    Though Sigma has corrected its mistake and removed the information from the source code of its website, Redditor u/jadware initially made the discovery and Redditor u/ForwardTwo captured the above screenshot showing the pricing information while it was still live on Sigma’s website. The information, which revealed the price to be $ 1,899, was previously visible under the meta property tag ‘og:price:amount’ when you searched for ‘1899’ within the source code of the website.

    This information still isn’t definitive, but it seems like a reasonable price point for the camera and the fact all signs of the price have since been removed lend credence to the possibility of the Sigma fp costing $ 1,899. Nokishita has also published pricing information, which puts it around the $ 1,899 price point (h/t Mistral75). Previous rumors have suggested the Sigma fp will be released on October 20th, so it shouldn’t be much longer until we find out definitively.


    Image credits: Screenshot by u/ForwardTwo, used with permission.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review

    The post Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

    The Sigma 45mm f/2.8 DG DN (sony, Leica) is the latest addition to Sigma’s Contemporary lens line. Launched in July 2019, this lens is available as Sony E-mount or Leica L-mount. The latter mount is of particular interest as the new L-mount is compatible with Panasonic and Leica full-frame cameras, plus Sigma’s own forthcoming L-mount mirrorless cameras. I got my hands on an E-mount version and tested the lens with my Sony A7RIII. Here are my thoughts.

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony E Mount

    Specs

    The Sigma 45mm f/2.8 lens has a maximum aperture of f/2.8, which may be a disappointment for photographers used to having at least an f/1.8 on their prime lenses. It also is a fairly expensive lens given its $ 549 price tag. However, this lens makes amends when it comes to size and the build quality.

    Size

    Compared to other Sigma prime lenses such as the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art (Nikon, Canon, Sony), this lens is significantly smaller and more lightweight. It weighs 7.5 ounces (half of the aforementioned 35mm) and comes in at less than 2-inches long. This makes the 45mm much more portable and discreet when compared to Sigma’s other Art lens primes that all have an f/1.4 aperture, but are significantly larger and heavier.

    This compact size is closer to that of the Canon 50mm f/1.8 and 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens. Both were my longtime favorite prime lenses when I shot with Canon DSLRs. The beauty about this size is that it feels very balanced when attached to a full-frame camera, whether it be my old Canon 5D Mark III or my new Sony A7RIII. With that said, this lens puzzles me when I compare it to other similar lenses that I’ve owned.

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 (left), Fujifilm 35mm f/2 (center), and Sony 55mm f/1.8 (right).

    Build quality

    It’s hard to ignore the design of this lens, which is both visually eye-catching and functional. There are two physical rings – the outermost ring controls the focus and the innermost ring selects the aperture, similar to how a Fujifilm lens performs. Choosing the aperture via the lens can take some getting used to, but it’s a wonderful way to interact with your camera. There’s also a switch to toggle autofocus or manual focus. The lens itself is made mostly of metal, and it includes a lens hood that is also made of metal. There is also weather sealing on the mount of the lens to keep dust and dirt at a minimal.

    Shooting experience

    45mm is an interesting focal length. It sits comfortably between two of the most popular focal lengths out there: the 35mm and 50mm. Not too wide or too narrow, 45mm gives you a range that feels natural, yet intentional. Autofocus on this lens is fast, accurate, and very quiet thanks to a fast-stepping motor.

    If you shoot on a Sony full-frame mirrorless camera, you may also be familiar with the feature of flipping between shooting in full-frame and APS-C mode. While the latter does crop and shrink your images, it gives you the ability to shoot at a slightly zoomed-in focal length. This, in turn, gives you at least two focal lengths to shoot from, and it is one of my favorite features of my Sony A7RIII.

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony E Mount

    Image quality

    The images captured by the Sigma 45mm f/2.8 lens result in very consistent color, tones, and sharpness. This lens has a rounded seven-blade diaphragm that renders a smooth, shallow depth of field. There is a minimum focusing distance of 9.4 inches, giving this 45mm decent macro capabilities.

    In Conclusion

    Overall, I had a very positive experience shooting with this Sigma 45mm f/2.8 lens. The compact size complemented the Sony A7RIII perfectly, making it a very portable unit. I usually have a 24-70mm f/2.8 or 55mm f/1.8 glued to my camera when shooting in low lighting scenarios. Thus, the 45mm’s f/2.8 aperture did not hinder me much. However, there is something to be said about having a faster aperture, especially in low light conditions.

    If you enjoy shooting with a versatile prime lens that is reasonably fast but very portable, this Sigma 45mm f/2.8 lens might be the lens for you.

    What are your first impressions of the Sigma 45mm f/2.8 lens? Would you purchase it? Why or why not?

    Sample photo gallery

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f2.8 for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f2.8 for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f2.8 for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f2.8 for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f2.8 for Sony E Mount

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony E Mount

     

    Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony

    The post Sigma 45mm f/2.8 Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


    Digital Photography School

  • Samsung is getting ready to test the Galaxy S11 periscope tele camera

    The South Korean tech publication The Elec reports that Samsung will soon receive test sockets for periscope-style tele camera that is expected to make its debut in at least one of the Galaxy S11 models early next year.

    The test sockets are used for final hardware-checks before shipping the components and are manufactured by fellow Korean company MecaTech Systems which also produces smartphone camera and time-of-flight (ToF) modules.

    Test socket produced by MecaTech Systems, image: The Elec

    MecaTech has been in the module-testing industry for the past 15 years and has been gaining recognition as smartphone manufacturers have increased reliability testing of their modules which is particularly key for multi-cam modules with multiple lenses and zoom capability.

    According to rumors the upcoming Samsung flagship will feature a 5x optical tele lens, matching the current king of zoom Huawei P30 Pro. The main camera will allegedly come with a 108MP Quad-Bayer sensor, with the module manufactured by Samsung Electro-Mechanics.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography

    The post Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

    Image: Using fill light is an essential skill that will allow you complete control over the contrast...

    Using fill light is an essential skill that will allow you complete control over the contrast and tonality in your images in any type of lighting situation.

    It should be no secret to any photographer that one light is all you need to achieve great results. While one light setups (in this context, specifically those that don’t involve the use of a reflector) are both well discussed and incredibly useful, sometimes it’s good (or even essential) to go beyond the basics. The next step in your progression is probably going to be to add fill lighting.

    Fill light is one of those essential skills that every photographer should have a good grasp of no matter what type of light they are using.

    Image: One light setups are powerful, and the results can be great. However, sometimes it’s us...

    One light setups are powerful, and the results can be great. However, sometimes it’s useful to be able to take even more control over the contrast in your images.

    This article will help to get you started with two types of fill lighting. The first of these is the use of the humble reflector. The other is to use a second dedicated light source. Both of these methods are very different in how they are implemented and what they can achieve. Mastering both will give you a more complete skill set with which to use in your photography.

    What is fill lighting and what does it achieve?

    Image: In the image on the left, the lack of fill lighting has left most of the details in the back...

    In the image on the left, the lack of fill lighting has left most of the details in the back of the subject’s dress as pure black. Adding fill light (right) has brought those details back.

    The concept of fill lighting is quite simple.

    The idea is that you use it to light the shadows in your frame. What this does is:

    • Brings up the exposure of the shadow areas in your image.
    • Reduces overall contrast in your frame (much like landscape photographers use graduated ND filters to reduce contrast in their images).
    • Brings your final images more in line with how the eye sees the world, rather than the limited range of your camera’s sensor.

    While really dark and contrasty images definitely have their place (I love them myself), images (especially portraits for clients) will benefit from a more even contrast ratio. I once heard it described (I’m sorry, I don’t remember where) that in lighting for TV and cinema, the shadows are always lit. This was a lightbulb moment for me as I had always wondered how cinematographers seemed to show a lot detail while still retaining a good amount of contrast. The answer was controlled fill lighting.

    Two types

    Reflectors

    Image: Reflectors are a powerful and versatile tool that allows you to be as subtle or as bold as yo...

    Reflectors are a powerful and versatile tool that allows you to be as subtle or as bold as you like with your fill lighting.

    The most basic type of fill lighting is that provided by the ever so basic, yet powerful, reflector. You probably have at least one of these already (or you’ve made a few). Reflectors provide fill light by reflecting light (go figure) from your key back into the shadows of your frame. In a lot of cases, reflectors will be your first foray into fill lighting. However, they will also be one of your most-used pieces of kit altogether.

    Secondary lights

    Image: Using a secondary light source as fill is going to be your most versatile option.

    Using a secondary light source as fill is going to be your most versatile option.

    You can also use a second light (or third and beyond) as your fill light. A dedicated fill light will do the same basic job as a reflector, but it is infinitely more controllable. You can fine-tune the exposure and shape of your fill light with a precision that reflectors just don’t allow.

    Contrast ratios – The very basics

    Image: Left: The shadows are filled heavily and the fill light is metered one-stop below key. This r...

    Left: The shadows are filled heavily and the fill light is metered one-stop below key. This results in a low contrast image with shadows retained. Right: the fill here is four stops below key. The contrast is high and the shadows are deep, but all of the detail is present.

    The very concept of a contrast ratio can seem technical and daunting, I know. However, it is not at all that difficult of a concept and it’s just not that technical. At the most basic level, a contrast ratio simply tells you how bright one light is in relation to one another in terms of the aperture of your camera.

    If your key light is metering at f/8, that means that if you set your camera to f/8 and an appropriate shutter speed (lower than your camera’s max sync speed) you will achieve a correct (subjective) exposure in-camera.

    Fill lighting will always be underexposed in relation to your key light. If it’s even to your key light, you will get flat, no-contrast images as a result. For a contrast ratio that provides low contrast, you will want your fill light to be at least one stop darker than your key light. Since our hypothetical key light is f/8, that means the key light in this instance needs to meter f/5.6. This is a ratio of 2:1 (which is more advanced and you definitely don’t need to know to get started).

    In short, if you want less contrast, your fill light should be one to two stops under your key light. If you want more contrast, try three to four stops.

    Metering

    If you want to be as precise as possible with these ratios, you will want to consider a light meter. That way you can measure any light falling on the scene with the press of a couple of buttons. This is the easiest way to go about it and works in the studio and natural light. You can also meter the light bouncing off a reflector.

    Image: A light meter is the easiest and most accurate way to read what your light is doing. However,...

    A light meter is the easiest and most accurate way to read what your light is doing. However, they don’t tend to be cheap.

    That does not at all mean that you have to use a light meter, though. While more difficult (especially if you’re new to lighting like this), you can do it with your histogram on the back of your camera. Take a test shot with just your key light on. Now take one with only your fill light on. (Note: you won’t be able to do this if you are using a reflector.) Because fill lighting should be raising the exposures on your shadows, the shadow area of the histogram of your fill light test shot should be further to the right than that of your key light test shot.  If the shadow areas on both histograms line up, you need to increase the exposure of your fill light. If the shadow areas of your fill light’s histogram line up with the mid-tones or highlights of your key light’s histogram, you need to decrease the exposure of your fill light. (I did say it was trickier.)

    Image: Left: Without fill light, you can see the shadows are underexposed. Right: With subtle fill l...

    Left: Without fill light, you can see the shadows are underexposed. Right: With subtle fill light, you can see the shadows are brought up quite a lot.

    Of course, you don’t have to do either of these things. You can always eyeball the whole setup and try to adjust things on the go. I would say this is perfectly fine with experience, but as you start out, I encourage you to at least have a go with the previous methods. It will drastically reduce the amount of time it takes you to get to grips with the technique and fully understand what is going on with your light. The more you understand, the easier you will find it to adjust things on the fly. You will also be able to learn new techniques faster.

    Fill light with reflectors

    Image: Reflectors can be subtle or bold when used as fill and are pretty versatile for what they are...

    Reflectors can be subtle or bold when used as fill and are pretty versatile for what they are.

    Reflectors are:

    • Cheap
    • Easy to setup
    • Easy to use
    • Very effective

    Getting started with reflectors as fill lighting

    Image: Reflectors are powerful, yet accessible, tools for fill lighting.

    Reflectors are powerful, yet accessible, tools for fill lighting.

    Before you start to think about fill, you will want to decide what your key light (main light source) is going to do. Set up your key light so that it is shaping and lighting your subject the way that you want. Meter so that you have the exposure settings that you desire.

    Image: A small(ish) softbox placed in front of and above the subject creates soft light with shadows...

    A small(ish) softbox placed in front of and above the subject creates soft light with shadows underneath the subject’s features.

    Now, evaluate the shadow areas that your key light is creating. If you’re using natural light, or strobes fitted with modeling lights, you can do this by eye. Alternatively, you can take a test shot and review it on the back of the camera.

    Image: Here you can see that while the light is soft, the shadows are a prominent part of the image.

    Here you can see that while the light is soft, the shadows are a prominent part of the image.

    Place your reflector so that it is roughly opposite your key light. Evaluate what the reflector is doing (either by eye or test shot again).

    Image: Adding a reflector beneath the key light serves to raise the exposure in the shadow areas of...

    Adding a reflector beneath the key light serves to raise the exposure in the shadow areas of the image.

    What you are aiming for is for you shadows to be brought up in exposure, but not eliminated altogether. If you want low contrast, bring your reflector in as close as possible. If you want more contrast, move it away.

    Image: With the reflector used as fill, the shadows are still present, but the overall contrast in t...

    With the reflector used as fill, the shadows are still present, but the overall contrast in the image has been reduced.

    It can take quite a lot of practice before you learn to see the subtle changes a white reflector provides. The key is to get as much practice in as possible.

    Set up an object and light it. Put your reflector wherever you want and start taking shots, being sure to move the reflector into different positions each time. Review each shot and try to notice the behavior of the light in each instance. This exercise will give you a pretty good idea of how a reflector is going to behave in any given situation. Do this exercise often and you will find you can see even the most subtle shifts in light where it was difficult before.

    Another quick tip to help you see the difference in contrast in a scene is to squint. It sounds ridiculous, but squinting reduces your vision to blocks of value and you will be able to see the contrast in the scene more easily.

    A second light

    Image: A second strobe serving as fill gives you the most control over how you manipulate your shado...

    A second strobe serving as fill gives you the most control over how you manipulate your shadows.

    Like reflectors, using extra lights as fill is a fundamental skill, albeit one with a slightly steeper learning curve. That said, unlike reflectors, using a dedicated light source allows you full control over the power output, making it much easier than a reflector to control how the light is going to behave.

    Image: Varying degrees of contrast between your shadow and highlight tones are possible just by adju...

    Varying degrees of contrast between your shadow and highlight tones are possible just by adjusting the power of your fill light.

    To get started using a dedicated fill light, place your key light in your desired position and set the power for your desired aperture. Let’s return to that hypothetical of f/8.

    Image: Here, a softbox is placed at 45 degrees to the subject.

    Here, a softbox is placed at 45 degrees to the subject.

    Knowing your aperture, place your fill light where it will affect the shadows in the manner you would like and set the power output so that it will be underexposed in relation to your aperture. How much you underexpose for is entirely up to you. If you want, say, two stops of fill in this scenario, then you will want your fill light to meter at f/4.

    Image: A 7′ parabolic umbrella with diffusion was added about 10-feet away to serve as fill. I...

    A 7′ parabolic umbrella with diffusion was added about 10-feet away to serve as fill. It was set to meter 2-stops under the key light.

    Take a test shot and see if you have your desired effect. Adjust as required and there you go.

    Image: In this before (left) and after (right) you can see how the shadows on the right side of the...

    In this before (left) and after (right) you can see how the shadows on the right side of the image are lifted and filled in with the fill light.

    Taking it further

    Image: You can design fill lighting however you like. Feel free to use multiple sources of different...

    You can design fill lighting however you like. Feel free to use multiple sources of different sizes and shapes if it works.

    Of course, you are not limited to a single fill light. You can have multiple fill lights lighting your subjects from both sides. You can also mix lights and reflectors for different strengths of fill lighting from various angles. You can pretty much do whatever you want in terms of designing a light set-up. You are only limited by the equipment you have at hand and what you can dream up.

    Image: Using multiple fill lights allows you to control every aspect of contrast in your images.

    Using multiple fill lights allows you to control every aspect of contrast in your images.

    An idea is only crazy if it might work and you don’t try it.

    Tips for fill lighting

    1) It’s often better to retain the shadows rather than fill them in completely. This is not a rule, but images that retain some amount of contrast are often more natural and pleasing to the eye.

    2) Pay attention to the catchlights in portraits – Extra light sources mean extra catchlights. When you are setting up your lights (reflectors included), be sure to watch the catchlights in your subjects’ eyes. Catchlights can make or break a portrait, so make sure you are controlling them as much as you are the lighting itself.

    3) Big light sources at a distance work very well as fill light.

    Image: This is by no means a rule, but big light sources (like the 7′ umbrella to camera right...

    This is by no means a rule, but big light sources (like the 7′ umbrella to camera right) from a distance work really well as fill lighting.

    4) Don’t be a slave to the ratios – While using the ratios as a starting point can, and will, be a useful springboard, that doesn’t mean you should adhere to them rigidly. If something isn’t right, adjust as you see fit. Nobody cares in the end if your ratios are exactly 4:1, but they do care if your photos look right. Use your best judgment and change things up if you need to. Sometimes only the tiniest of power adjustments will completely change the end result.

    5) Think outside the box – Any light source can be your key and your fill. You’re probably aware that you can use flash to fill-in shadows in natural light, but you can also use natural light as fill where your main lighting is provided by flash.

    Image: Here, the key light is a large window to the camera right. The fill light is provided by a st...

    Here, the key light is a large window to the camera right. The fill light is provided by a strobe. You can mix light sources however you want to achieve your fill lighting.

    That’s it

    Hopefully, that’s served as a primer to get you started and demystify fill lighting. Being able to control the contrast in your images with lighting is a fundamental skill that you will be able to use across multiple disciplines. It will allow you to bring a new level of depth to your images straight out of the camera.

    Get out and practice, start simple and go slow, and you will master the basics in no time at all.

    Try out some of these tips, and share your photos with us in the comments!

     

    fill-light-in-portrait-photography

    The post Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


    Digital Photography School

  • Anduril’s Anvil is a drone-bashing machine designed to take out UAVs mid-flight

    Palmer Luckey has moved on after being ousted from Facebook. His second act as a founder is California-based manufacturer, Anduril. Based in Irvine, the upstart has raised over $ 41 million since 2014. They’ve developed the Anvil, a quadcopter designed for short, fast flights up to 100 mph. The Anvil is equipped with sensors to identify, track, and intercept targets.

    According to Luckey, the best way to respond to the threat of a drone illegally entering unauthorized airspace, especially military bases, is to physically smash into and disable it. ‘All the soft kill systems are a waste of time,’ Luckey told Bloomberg in an interview, referring to a spate of anti-drone technologies that have recently surfaced.

    Equipped with electro-optical and infrared sensors, that are effective both in daylight and at nighttime, rotors on the bottom, and strategically-placed flight-critical parts, the Anvil takes out hostile drones from below. An operator can authorize an attack through a handheld remote while viewing a live feed. One main issue is the damage sustained to the Anvil as a result of a high-speed impact. Luckey believes in their durability and is not too concerned.

    Anduril is already working on larger, faster versions of the Anvil that will target a small aircraft, helicopters, and even cruise missiles. It remains to be seen if crashing into rogue unmanned vehicles will be an effective solution to securing airspace. Said Luckey, via Twitter, ‘the best way to kill fast drones piloted by hostile humans is with even faster drones piloted by AI. The United States cannot allow the skies of the world to turn into the Wild West, our ability to take out aerial threats in a matter of seconds is part of the solution.’

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Hipstamatic returns with new free app and updated analog camera styles

    Hipstamatic, the once-popular image filter app that was largely eclipsed by Instagram, has returned as the Hipstamatic X analog camera app. The new app is free to download for iOS devices, offering users access to image filters that imitate the look of many retro analog cameras.

    Unlike Instagram, which requires users to manually apply and edit filters, Hipstamatic functions more like a camera, which means the filter and adjustments are automatically applied when the user snaps an image. ‘This camera brings all the joy, quirk, and randomness of analog film photography to your pocket,’ the Hipstamatic team explains on the App Store.

    Hipstamatic offers a number of camera options, including Fisheye, Art House, Classic Toy, Tintype, Disposable, K-PRO X, Instant, and Pinhole. All films and lenses previously purchased for the Hipstamatic Classic app are supported by Hipstamatic X.

    Though the app is now free, users can sign up for the Hipstamatic Makers Club at $ 2/month for access to the app’s full preset library, all cameras offered by the app, as well as more than 100 lenses and films released by the company over the past decade. Using these, mobile photographers are able to ‘build’ their own analog camera styles to get the effects they want.

    The company plans to release additional camera styles in the future; Hipstamatic Makers Club members will get early access to these offerings ‘several times per year.’

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • When fast-ish is fast enough: in praise of F1.8 lenses

    Going back decades, well-heeled amateur and hobbyist photographers have lusted after fast prime lenses. Partly this is just human nature. In the days when most cameras shipped with standard 50mm F1.8 or F2 lenses, it was inevitable that such photographers would long for something a little more exotic. A little faster, more expensive, and more ‘professional’. For photography obsessives that grew up idolizing the famous LIFE magazine shooters of the late 20th Century, it was natural to aspire to own those kinds of lenses, despite their price.

    There is still a demand for F1.4 and faster lenses, but that’s not the same thing as saying that there is a need for them

    Partly though, the appeal of fast lenses is practical – regardless of your ability level or income. They let in more light, and more light, even today, is always good. In the film days though, you really needed every stop. For a long time, anything above ISO 400 was considered ‘fast’, and shooting so-called ‘high speed’ film involved compromises, in color rendition, grain and contrast. For photographers that needed to work in changing conditions, an F1.4 or even F1.2 lens was valuable insurance against missed opportunities created by a lack of light. Never mind that many of the F1.4 and F1.2 lenses of the film era were pretty soft wide open – a slightly hazy photo is better than no photo at all.

    But today, two decades into the ‘Digital Century’, is there still a need for ultra-fast lenses?

    One of the ultimate drool-worthy lenses, the Leica Summilux 35mm F1.4 (this example is from the 1970s) is the most compact F1.4 lens that Leica ever made for its M-series rangefinders. Its small size, light weight, and the premium attached to F1.4 means that it has long been a favorite of professionals and wealthy amateurs.

    Never mind the fact that at it can’t focus closer than 1 meter, can’t accept normal filters and doesn’t really get sharp until F2.

    Fast lenses continue to sell, and technically of course, the F1.4 and F1.2 (and faster) primes of today are far superior to the designs that came before. Standout examples of the current state-of-the-art include Canon’s superb RF 50mm F1.2 and EF 35mm F1.4L II, Sony’s GM 24mm F1.4, and Sigma’s 35mm F1.2 ‘Art’ among many others. Tamron’s new 35mm F1.4 is another stunning lens, and don’t let a Pentax fan catch you suggesting that the FA* 50mm F1.4 SDM AW is anything less than perfect. Technically speaking, all of the lenses I just mentioned are among the best of their type that you can buy.

    Canon’s EF 35mm F1.4L II USM is a stunning lens – in fact arguably the best 35mm prime on the market. If you’re a Canon shooter, and you’re one of those people that really needs F1.4, this is the lens to get. But for most of us, it might be overkill.

    Clearly, then, and partly for that reason, there is still a demand for F1.4 and faster lenses, but that’s not quite the same thing as saying that most photographers still have a need for them. I suggest that these days, with the modern BSI-CMOS sensors inside most full-frame interchangeable lens cameras, the average full-frame photographer will be fine with F1.8. And might actually be better off.

    To explain why I think that, I’ll break down the three traditional arguments in favor of fast lenses:

    1: Faster lenses let in more light, and more light is always good.

    This is a fact. More light is never a bad thing, and the 2/3 of a stop which demarks an F1.4 lens from an F1.8 lens is not insignificant.*

    Consider the practical implications of shooting at F1.4 versus F1.8: First, you’ll be able to shoot at faster (shorter duration) shutter speeds. Assuming a constant ISO sensitivity, an increase in 2/3 of a stop of aperture means the difference between shooting at a shutter speed of 1/25th of a second and shooting at 1/15th.

    That’s potentially quite handy if, for example, you’re shooting with a 28mm lens. Without any form of stabilization, you’ll probably be able to hand-hold your shot at 1/25th, but you might struggle at 1/15th. So in marginal light, shooting at F1.4 will give you a little bit more peace of mind.

    This portrait of everyone’s favorite dog was shot wide open, on the Nikon Z 50mm F1.8 S. Belvedere is sharp, there’s no CA anywhere, and foreground and background are pleasantly blurred. The high performance of the Nikon Z6’s BSI-CMOS sensor means that even at ISO 1,400, noise is barely an issue (and could be reduced even further with a little more NR in Adobe Camera Raw).
    ISO 1400 | 1/250 sec | F1.8

    The second practical implication is that more light coming in through the lens means that assuming a fixed shutter speed, you can shoot at lower ISO sensitivity settings. Two thirds of a stop is the difference between ISO 640 and ISO 400.

    But do you care these days about the difference between shooting at ISO 640 and ISO 400? Or ISO 1,600 and ISO 1,000? Or even 160 and 100? The increased performance of modern sensors at high ISO sensitivity settings means that the days when you really needed to keep your ISO ultra-low for acceptable results are (fortunately) over. As such, when it comes to light gathering, the advantage of an F1.4 lens is less important now than ever before. That’s assuming you’re shooting with one of the new generation of BSI-CMOS sensors, of course, with dual-gain architectures.

    2: Faster lenses make for more attractive images

    But of course you know all about F-stops, and the reason you’re interested in an F1.4 lens is not for its technical advantages when it comes to pushing your exposure envelope, but for its aesthetic advantages. Specifically, shallower depth of field and blurrier backgrounds at maximum aperture.

    This is fair enough – if you consider two lenses of the same focal length, one an F1.4 and one an F1.8, the F1.4 lens will deliver blurrier backgrounds, assuming a constant camera to subject distance. Physics again.

    However, the difference between the appearance of background blur at F1.4 vs. F1.8 isn’t as great as all that. It’s highly dependent on camera to subject distance of course, but in general, I’ll bet that most people, if they saw a photograph shot at either F stop setting in isolation, would be unable to identify the aperture setting you used.

    Look at the example above. The image on the left was shot at F1.8, the image on the right was shot at F1.4. The crop is from an area just to the left (her left) of our model’s head.

    The two images look different, certainly. But are they that different? Meanwhile, the marginal increase in depth of field at F1.8 over F1.4 may actually be advantageous for some photographic situations – especially portraits like this, where even a slight sharpness difference between your subject’s eyes can be distracting.

    3: A faster lens stopped down is sharper than a slower one is wide open

    Traditionally, this is true. No lens is technically at its best when shot at its maximum aperture. Stopping down a touch is good practice if you want to achieve better overall sharpness, cut down vignetting, minimize some common aberrations, and you don’t mind losing a tiny bit of background blur in return.

    This portrait was shot straight into the sun, on Nikon’s Z7 with a new Z 85mm F1.8 S attached. Wide open, this image is sharp across the frame, contrasty, and while there is some flare in evidence, you really have to go looking for it. This is not the kind of performance that we would traditionally associate with an 85mm F1.8.
    ISO 64 | 1/2000 sec | F1.8

    Again though, these days, you may find that the difference between an F1.4 lens stopped down to F1.8 and a good F1.8 lens wide open is minimal. Looking at the best of today’s crop of F1.8 primes their performance wide open is extraordinary. When examining images from the Nikon Z 85mm or 50mm F1.8 S or the Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm F1.8 ZA, its obvious that compared to the ‘kit’ primes of the old days, they’re in a different league. Some of this is down to the increased design flexibility that mirrorless technology brings in terms of automatic software corrections, but not all.

    At the end of the day, an F1.8 prime that is sharp and contrasty across the frame, which offers pleasant bokeh and lacks significant fringing when shot wide open is – I would argue – a much better value proposition than a more expensive F1.4 or F1.2 lens which needs to be shot at F1.8 or F2 for optimal results.

    Disadvantages of ultra-fast lenses

    Hopefully I’ve challenged some of the conventionally accepted advantages of faster lenses, but to further bolster my case I want to look at their outright disadvantages.

    There are three: size, weight, and cost.

    Lenses with a maximum aperture of F1.4 or faster are typically larger, heavier and as I’ve hinted at above, more costly than F1.8 or slower equivalents. The image below, showing Canon’s EF 50mm F1.8 STM next to the RF 50mm F1.2L USM is an extreme example, but nevertheless, if you see a 50mm F1.2 (or F1.4) and a 50mm F1.8 in a particular company’s lineup, you can bet that the F1.8 will be the lighter, smaller and cheaper of the pair.

    I don’t want to pick out (or pick on) particular brands here, but Nikon’s Z-mount prime lens range is worth looking at in the context of this discussion because it currently only consists of F1.8 options (pending the arrival of the manual focus 58mm F0.95 Noct, which is a bit of a special case).

    Two lenses, both made by Canon, one for DSLRs on the left, and one for mirrorless, on the right. The biggest reason for the size difference between these two is their maximum aperture. The lens on the left is the EF 50mm F1.8 STM, while the lens on the right is the RF 50mm F1.2L USM. The RF lens is one stop brighter than the EF lens. One stop brighter, and a whole lot heftier.

    Of Nikon’s three currently available Z-mount lenses, the Z 50mm F1.8 S and Z 85mm F1.8 S are, in my opinion, optically outstanding in almost every way that a photographer should care about. The Z 35mm F1.8 S isn’t quite in the same league when it comes to CA suppression, but it’s still excellent. The combined cost of all three of these lenses is $ 2,250 (not inclusive of tax). That’s only $ 150 more than the MSRP of Canon’s admittedly stunning, but undeniably massive RF 50mm F1.2L, shown above. Meanwhile the combined weight of the three Nikon lenses comes in at only 300g more than the Canon 50mm on its own. And around 800g (about 1.7lb) less than the expected weight of one Nikon Noct, (pictured at the top of this article) if you’re playing that game. We don’t know how much the Noct will cost yet, but let’s assume it will be significantly more than $ 2,250…

    If you want a really fast, flagship prime lens, be prepared to pay for it, in more ways than one

    Clearly this is an imperfect comparison, drawn only to make a point. But hopefully you do get my point: If you want a really fast, flagship prime lens, be prepared to pay for it, in more ways than one. And ask yourself first – how much do you really need that extra stop or two of light?

    Just one more thing…

    Speaking of price brings me to a flaw in my argument – or at least to a caveat: The fact that all other things being equal, an F1.8 lens is likely to be cheaper and smaller than an F1.4 or F1.2 equivalent is unsurprising, and in itself proves nothing. What has proved surprising to some of our readers is that fact that the best of today’s crop of F1.8 primes for mirrorless systems are more costly than their D/SLR-era F1.8 equivalents. In fact, in some cases they’re more costly than their F1.4 D/SLR-era equivalents.

    Nikon’s Z 85mm f1.8 S, for example, costs almost exactly twice as much as the still-current AF-S 85mm f1.8G. Meanwhile, the AF-S 50mm F1.4G is a fine lens, and still available new for around $ 400 – that’s 2/3 of the cost of the Z 50mm F1.8 S. Sony’s new FE 35mm F1.8 costs $ 750 – that’s more than Sigma’s 35mm F1.4 ‘Art’ – still one of our favorite fast prime lenses, even seven years after its introduction.

    Sharp and free of distracting flare even when shot almost wide open, Sony’s new FE 35mm F1.8 is one of the most useful lenses for Sony’s mirrorless interchangeable lens system.
    ISO 100 | 1/400 sec | F2.2
    Photo by RIshi Sanyal

    Why is this so? The reasons are various. There’s the the overall loss of value in the digital photography industry which has seen volume at the low end of the market disappear, driving the prices of high-end products up. The need to recoup some of the R&D costs of developing entirely new mirrorless mounts, the fluctuation in the value of the Japanese Yen over the past decade or so, and other factors.

    $ 800 spent now on one of the current crop of state-of-the-art mirrorless lenses buys you more than $ 800 ever has

    But let’s not lose sight of a really important fact, independent of all that: The newer lenses mentioned above tend to be superior to equivalents that came before. While $ 800 is clearly a lot more cash than $ 400, $ 800 spent now on one of the current crop of state-of-the-art mirrorless lenses buys you more than $ 800 ever has. As such – especially if you’re a Nikon Z or Sony FE mirrorless shooter – I would argue that it’s time to leave behind the old idea that faster always equals better and take this opportunity to downsize.

    Look out for part 2 to this article, if I ever get time to write it – ‘Hey Canon and Sigma, how about some more compact, high-performance F1.8 primes?’

    Interested in reading some lens reviews? Click here


    * In fact, 2/3EV is the difference between APS-C and full-frame.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Just Dew It – Fun with Macro Dewdrop Photography

    The post Just Dew It – Fun with Macro Dewdrop Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    Some things are practically guaranteed to make great photo subjects – dewdrops in the grass sparkling like diamonds in the morning sun, flowers and foliage wet with the rain, a closeup of dewdrops suspended in spiderweb-like pearls on a string or the crystal-ball look of a drop with a refracted image inside.  You can seek out such scenes in nature, or you can create your own miniature macro world.  However you do it, dewdrop photography will test your skills plus give you the reward of pleasing images, not everyone can make.  So let’s take a look at what, where, and how to “dew it.”

    Image: When the morning light hits the dew-covered lawn it can be like searching for diamonds in the...

    When the morning light hits the dew-covered lawn it can be like searching for diamonds in the grass.

    Going natural

    I’ve spent more than a few mornings lying in the grass with a macro lens mounted on my camera searching for the perfect dewdrop. I’ve also been out after the rain, looking for images where the drops have added a clean, fresh look with increased saturation to a subject. While often the subjects are found in nature, drops beaded on the surface of a freshly waxed car and other human-made objects can make for some great shots too.

    Image: Many leaves will naturally bead water like the raindrops on this daylily. Raindrop photograph...

    Many leaves will naturally bead water like the raindrops on this daylily. Raindrop photography is the “larger cousin” of dewdrop photography with no macro lens needed .

    Image: A little spritz with a sprayer makes this rose look fresh and adds interest.

    A little spritz with a sprayer makes this rose look fresh and adds interest.

    Image: The fine hairs on a lupine leaf naturally beaded the water sprayed with a garden hose. 1/160...

    The fine hairs on a lupine leaf naturally beaded the water sprayed with a garden hose. 1/160 sec. f/3.5 ISO100 with Tamron 90mm macro.

    Image: Just add water to take a nice photo to the next level. Raindrops on the hood of this freshly-...

    Just add water to take a nice photo to the next level. Raindrops on the hood of this freshly-waxed Jaguar add some extra pizzaz.

    Hunting for such subjects is fun.  Like much of photography, it’s a matter of getting out with your camera when the conditions are right, often early in the morning in the case of dew or right after a rain shower.  Sometimes you’ll find some great subjects where the drops, the light, and the subject all come together.  I’ve not yet made the classic dew-drop-festooned-spider-web shot, but I’m still looking.  Luck plays a certain part in getting such shots. The fun is in the search. But sometimes when you want to leave it less to chance, that could be the time to…

    Fake it to make it

    You realize in those great movie rain scenes it wasn’t really raining when filming took place, right? So is it cheating when we as artistic photographers “enhance” our shots with the addition of raindrops or dewdrops? I think not. I guarantee the photographer created the vast majority of great dewdrop photos you’ve seen. Take two otherwise identical flower photos; the only difference being one is covered with dewdrops. The wet one will win the prize almost every time.

    Drops sparkle, shimmer, refract light in interesting ways, and can take an image from “meh” to “wow!”  So if you haven’t already done so, consider adding a little spray bottle to your camera kit with some “magic juice” inside.

    “Magic Juice?”

    You can often use plain water to enhance your shot. If you’re simulating raindrops that might work okay. Spraying the foliage with the garden hose often works too. But when you want smaller, more rounded beads that hang where you place them and stay for a longer time without moving or evaporating, get some glycerine.

    Image: Here’s the special ingredient for making photographer’s “Magic Juice....

    Here’s the special ingredient for making photographer’s “Magic Juice.”

    Often found in the baking section of the grocery store, glycerin is very transparent, much thicker than water, and just plain works better for photography. Use it straight from the bottle and apply where you like with an eyedropper, or mix one-part glycerine to two parts water for use in a spray bottle.

    You can enhance the look of flowers and foliage, simulate condensation on glassware or other objects, give subjects a wet-look, enhance your food photography or even simulate sweat on human subjects if you need that look. Great stuff!

    Image: Using the Live View mode of your camera can really help in getting critical focus.

    Using the Live View mode of your camera can really help in getting critical focus.

    Equipment needs

    For more distant shots of things like raindrops, you might get by with standard, close-focusing lenses and also be able to work hand-held.  But dewdrops are tiny. When it’s time to get close, closer, and ultra-close, you’ll be entering the world of macro photography.  You will definitely need a tripod and one of several ways to get up close to your tiny subject:

    Image: Here all three Kenko extension tubes (Canon, Nikon, Sony), plus a Canon 25mm tube, are all co...

    Here all three Kenko extension tubes (Canon, Nikon, Sony), plus a Canon 25mm tube, are all combined with a Canon “nifty fifty” 50mm f/1.8 lens.  This gives 93mm of extension.  You can combine tubes in any sequence or combination depending on how close you need to get to your subject and how much magnification you’re seeking.

    Standard Macro Lenses

    Many lenses may state they have macro capability, but to truly be a macro lens, they should be able to create a 1:1 image. That means the image rendered on the camera sensor is the same size as the physical object or bigger. Full-frame cameras are called that because their sensor size is roughly equivalent to a full-frame of 35mm film, (24mm X 36mm), so if the lens you’re using can fill the frame with an object that’s about 35mm wide, it’s a true macro.

    Here’s a quick test you can try: a U.S. quarter is 24.26mm in diameter. So, if you can focus on and fill the frame top to bottom with an uncropped shot of a quarter, you have a macro lens. On a crop sensor camera where the sensor is 14.9×22.2mm (Canon), a 1:1 shot of a quarter would more than fill the frame.

    Image: Catching the light source in the drops with a small aperture produced a star effect. 3 tubes...

    Catching the light source in the drops with a small aperture produced a star effect. 3 tubes plus Tamron 90mm macro. 1.6 sec. f/16, ISO 800

    Extension Tubes/Bellows

    Increasing the distance between your lens and camera sensor will have the effect of allowing you to focus closer than with the lens alone and thus appear to magnify the image.  Stacking multiple tubes or making the bellows longer will get you in even closer.  You can also get into macro territory with something simple like a 50mm prime lens plus an extension tube set.  Much less money than a dedicated macro lens!

    Image: You can just see the end of the reversed Vivitar 28-105 zoom in this shot. Note how close I...

    You can just see the end of the reversed Vivitar 28-105 zoom in this shot. Note how close I’m able to get the lens to my subject.

    Image: Here’s what the reversed lens zoomed out to 28mm produced. Thinking backward helps here...

    Here’s what the reversed lens zoomed out to 28mm produced. Thinking backward helps here – Wider zoom settings allow closer focusing than more zoomed settings.

    Reversed lenses

    Mount a lens backward on your camera and you will be able to get in much, much closer than you would otherwise.  I did a whole article on this technique which allows you to use even inexpensive old film camera lenses for great macro effects.

    Image: A focusing rail like this simple Neewer unit can be especially helpful when working to get go...

    A focusing rail like this simple Neewer unit can be especially helpful when working to get good focus with sliver-thin depth of field. It’s also excellent for making focus-stacked images where you take a shot, adjust focus slightly, make another shot, and repeat getting multiple focus points on the subject which are later combined to get more depth of field than is possible with a single shot.

    Focusing rail

    Working with tiny subjects and macro lens techniques, you will quickly find your depth of field is sliver-thin, sometimes only a few millimeters. Often rather than trying to focus as usual, (and forget about using auto-focus when making shots like this), physically moving the camera forward or back is the way to focus.

    A focusing rail is a finely-geared device which, with the use of knobs, allows you to move the camera in and out in tiny increments. Like most camera gear, you can spend a lot on the sophisticated rails, and there are even computer-controlled versions for doing macros that focus-stack.

    If you’re just entering the world of macro however, very serviceable versions can be had for under $ 50.00 US.

    Image: With a depth of field only a few millimeters, sometimes focus stacking will be required to ge...

    With a depth of field only a few millimeters, sometimes focus stacking will be required to get what you want in focus. This shot is a 5-image stack.

    Lighting

    With your lens so close to your subject, you will often be in your own light, and shading your subject. There are many ways to light macro subjects and no single “right” way. It’s simply a matter of what works.

    Do you know that things like extension tubes and bellows reduce the light reaching the sensor? Most often, you will be stopping down your lens, seeking more depth of field. Adding more light or increasing the exposure time will often be required. One advantage of the latter is that a several second exposure can sometimes allow you to “light-paint” your subject.

    I did many of the really close-up images in this article that way. I light-painted during the exposure with a simple LED flashlight.

    macro-dewdrop-photography

    Note the difference aperture makes. The shot at left is at f/22 while the one on the right is at f/5.6. The background is affected more that the refracted image in the drops.

    In practice – a look at some samples

    The following images show a tabletop session with glycerin “dewdrops” hanging from a strand of sewing thread. I used a combination of a macro lens (a Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 Di mounted on a Canon 6D camera), as well as a combination of extension tubes and a reversed old Vivitar 28-105mm zoom from my old Pentax ME Super film camera.

    Some of the images used a combination of those devices stacked together in a quest to see just how close I could get. 

    macro-dewdrop-photography

    This is about as close as the Tamron 90mm macro alone could focus. The drops are tiny, so this probably is the 1:1 ratio the lens is capable of.

    Image: Using this combination allowed the three-drop shot below.

    Using this combination allowed the three-drop shot below.

    Image: 3 extension tubes plus the Tamron Macro. 1.6 sec. f/16 ISO 800

    3 extension tubes plus the Tamron Macro. 1.6 sec. f/16 ISO 800

    Image: Combining the Tamron 90mm macro with all three extension tubes (for a total of 68mm of extens...

    Combining the Tamron 90mm macro with all three extension tubes (for a total of 68mm of extension).

    macro-dewdrop-photography

    The reversed Vivitar film lens plus a 36mm extension tube focused close enough to fill the frame with two drops. The long exposure also allowed time to light-paint the sunflower. 15 seconds, f/22, ISO 100.

    Bear in mind that the drops in the shot are really tiny, around 2-3mm, so filling the frame with a single drop was way more than a 1:1 magnification ratio.  If calculating the magnification factor is your bag, there are places with calculation tools to do that.  For example, for one image I used all my extension tubes, (a Kenko set with 12, 20, and 36mm tubes plus a Canon 25mm tube = total 93mm extension) and a Canon 50mm f/1.8 “nifty 50” prime.  Per the calculator, that produced about a 2:1 magnification ratio, filling the frame with about 3 of the drops.  I achieved the closest shot (below), with the reversed Vivitar at 28mm with the three Kenko tubes attached.  I figure it’s over 3:1, uncropped and almost filling the frame with a single drop.

    macro-dewdrop-photography

    To get this close with no cropping took all three (12mm, 20mm, and 36mm) extension tubes combined with the reversed Vivitar film lens at 28mm. The drop is only about 2mm wide.  This is also a 2-image focus stack, one for the drop and the other for the flower inside.

    Take note of how in the images the drop acts like a tiny lens, refracting and inverting the image inside it.  If you want the image inside to be right-side-up, be sure to invert the real physical object before you snap the shot.  Also, with such limited depth of field, even a small aperture may not give you the range of focus you need.  Making shots like this will also give you a reason to learn focus-stacking techniques.

    The captions on the shots reveal what I used to achieve each dewdrop photography image.  So, see what you can learn here, get your camera, maybe buy some entry-level macro gear and then… just go “dew” it!

    Share the images you make with us in the comments section!

     

    macro-dewdrop-photography

    The post Just Dew It – Fun with Macro Dewdrop Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


    Digital Photography School

  • Landscape photography with a drone: the advantages – part 3

    In the previous articles in this series, I elaborated about the advantages of the drone, specifically that the drone offers more compositional opportunities, is cheap to run, portable, available anywhere and able to hover in place.

    In this article I’d like to conclude the discussion of the drone’s advantages by mentioning its ability to hover in place and its most fun facet: its fearlessness in the face of danger.

    Ability to hover

    The ability to effortlessly hover in place is unique to the drone. True, good helicopter pilots can hover efficiently, but neither with the same GPS-controlled accuracy as the drone, nor with its ability to go near the subject. In terms of stability, a drone can only be compared to a tripod in the sky, which in turn means that it allows three things: relatively long exposures, parking abilities and immaculate precision.

    Long exposures can be useful when the photographer wants to convey a sense of motion in an image. For example, an exposure of half a second or more can smear moving water, creating pleasing lines and a clear feel in an image. Under sufficiently still weather, a modern drone can shoot sharp images at half a second, a second or even more. Multiple attempts can result in a sharp shot even when shooting a several second long exposure – an unprecedented achievement for any aerial shooing (that doesn’t use a heavy, expensive gyro-stabilizer).

    A long exposure of Fossa waterfall, Faroe Islands. If I had an ND filter handy, I could’ve extended the exposure even more.
    DJI Mavic II Pro, 1/2 sec, F11, ISO 100.

    I’ll explain and demonstrate what I mean by ‘parking abilities’ with an image I took earlier this year. I was shooting the total solar eclipse over lake Cuesta Del Viento, in the San Juan province of Argentina. Totality lasted for a mere 2 minutes (which seemed more like 45 seconds), during which I tried to shoot a wide-angle focus-stack, a telephoto closeup of the corona, and an aerial of the eclipse reflecting in the lake above the badlands. Naturally, I had set up my wide angle and telephoto compositions beforehand, but the point here is that the drone allowed me to set up my aerial composition as well.

    A wide angle focus-stack of the eclipse above the badlands A telephoto closeup of the corona

    I composed the shot about 5 or 10 minutes before the totality, and left the drone hovering in place. Once I was done with the two DSLR shots, I took the remote to find the aerial composition exactly how I had left it. This saved me precious time and allowed me to take all three shots in a very narrow time frame. The drone reflection shot, more than anything, is a true once-in-a-lifetime shot.

    The drone aerial I took after the two DSLR shots.
    DJI Mavic II Pro, 1/10 sec, F2.8, ISO 100. Lago Cuesta Del Viento, San Juan Province, Argentina

    Finally, the controls of a modern drone allow for unprecedented precision. The drone can move very delicately (some drones offer a ‘tripod mode’ for extra delicate movement) and enables the photographer to create and capture a balanced image. This is especially important when shooting in close distances to certain subjects.

    The window of showing the boat in the middle of the arch was very small. Delicate movements of the drone allowed me to get the shot with ease.
    DJI Phantom 4 Pro, 1/40 sec, F5.6, ISO 200. Disko Bay, Greenland

    Fearlessness in the face of danger

    A major advantage of the drone is the fact that you can endanger it with little consequence. As a nature photographer who lives and breathes extreme environments, I can’t stress enough how overwhelming it is.

    A drone doesn’t care about breathing toxic gases. A drone doesn’t care about being uncomfortable, hot, cold, breathless or tired. A drone is a robot, a slave to your will and it will go wherever you tell it to go. It will scream if the battery is about to run out, it will quietly protest if you try to fly in windy weather, its sensors will avoid contact with close-by objects, it won’t let you fly near airports (thank goodness). But other than that, it will obey the commands of its master, however stupid or dangerous… which gives the photographer a perfect opportunity to be as daring as he wishes.

    This shot is hazy because it’s taken from within a caldera filled with toxic gasses.
    DJI Mavic II Pro, 1/25 sec, F6.3, ISO 100. Kawah Ijen, East Java, Indonesia

    Please note that I’m only legitimizing risking the drone, not people’s health. I will cover drone etiquette in a future article, but for now, let me stress that I’m talking about flying both legally and (even more importantly) morally, where there are no chances of people or the environment being harmed by the drone. Luckily, as a nature photographer, it’s easy to stay on the right side of legality and morality, simply because I do most of my shooting alone in the wild, without people or buildings around me. The worst thing that can happen to me is losing the drone (that has happened, of course, a tale which will be told in the future).

    No person, and no manned aircraft for that matter, would dream of flying meters above an active volcano. Only uninformed people would go near an ice-arch, which can collapse at any moment with tragic consequences. But a drone can, and will do so happily. This fact opens a myriad of options which simply aren’t there without a drone. Let’s see some examples and explore the dangerous side of landscape photography.

    Lava flows in the shape of a double-headed dragon. During this shoot I flew my drone so close to the lava that the camera was molten (!). Needless to say, I wouldn’t get this close myself.
    DJI Phantom 4 Pro, 1/8 sec, F6.3, ISO 400. Taken outside of Volcanoes NP, Island of Hawaii.

    I wrote extensively about my Hawaii volcano photography in a previous article, but I’ll mention here that it was an amazing shoot during which I flew my drone very close to the lava, closer than I’d ever venture myself. The red-hot lava was so hot that it melted my drone camera, the perfect example of the drone going where no man would, and coming back in one piece (if damaged).

    The shoot was more than worth losing the drone, both financially (the images and videos sold for many times what I paid to fix the drone) and in the images I got from it. It was a once-in-a-lifetime event, and I risked the drone knowing very well I could lose it at any moment. Actually, it was the very fact that I melted the drone camera, rather than the unique images I got, that made this series go viral, and got me a front-page National Geographic website feature and interview.

    The point where the lava burst out of the mountain side was extremely hot.
    DJI Phantom 4 Pro, 1/100 sec, f/6.3, ISO 400. Taken outside of Volcanoes NP, Island of Hawaii.

    From lava to ice. It is well known that large icebergs can be extremely dangerous. They can not only collapse catastrophically, but they can flip over, and both these scenarios involve dislocation of a huge amount of ice and water, creating high waves and endangering everyone sailing within a substantial radius. But again, a drone doesn’t care. It will fly under close-to-collapsing arches, hover meters away from gigantic icebergs and go where no man would dare.

    To get the composition I wanted with the faraway iceberg and lenticular clouds framed inside the hole in the closer iceberg, I had to get very close to the ice. Needless to say, this would have been impossible in any other way, as I wouldn’t step on this iceberg, and no manned aircraft would fly this close to it.
    DJI Mavic II Pro, 1/30 sec, f/8, ISO 200, vertical stitch. Uummannaq, Greenland

    There are even more advantages to using a drone. The more you use it, the easier it is to use and the more freedom it gives you. Other points I won’t elaborate on are:

    • The drone, unlike a manned aircraft, doesn’t pose any obstacle to shooting. Manned aircraft have rotors (in helicopters), wings or beams blocking your view. The windows in light planes can also limit your range of motion.
    • Your carbon footprint is significantly lower with a drone compared to manned aircraft.
    • It’s a good conversation starter.
    • It’s so much fun to fly.

    In the next article in the series, I’ll discuss the other side of things: the disadvantages and limitations of the drone.


    Erez Marom is a professional nature photographer, photography guide and traveler based in Israel. You can follow Erez’s work on Instagram and Facebook, and subscribe to his mailing list for updates.

    If you’d like to experience and shoot some of the world’s most fascinating landscapes with Erez as your guide, take a look at his unique photography workshops in The Lofoten Islands, Greenland, Namibia, the Argentinean Puna, the Faroe Islands and Ethiopia.

    Erez offers video tutorials discussing his images and explaining how he achieved them.

    More in This Series:

    • Landscape Photography with a Drone – Part 1: Forward / What is a Drone?
    • Landscape Photography with a Drone – Part 2: Advantages of the Drone (i)
    • Landscape Photography with a Drone – Part 3: Advantages of the Drone (ii)

    Selected Articles by Erez Marom:

    • Parallelism in Landscape Photography
    • Winds of Change: Shooting changing landscapes
    • Behind the Shot: Dark Matter
    • On the Importance of Naming Images
    • On Causality in Landscape Photography
    • Shooting K?lauea Volcano, Part 1: How to melt a drone
    • The Art of the Unforeground
    • Whatever it Doesn’t Take
    • Almost human: photographing critically endangered mountain gorillas

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)