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Best Photos of 2019 by Jim M. Goldstein

04 Jan

Thanks for checking in to see my best photos of 2019. This year for a variety of reasons I didn’t have many opportunities to get out and pursue photography to the degree I’d have preferred. Some of the reasons why were good (new house, settling in, kid activities with both boys being in elementary school for the first time, etc.) and some were downright bummers (passing of my grandfather, getting used to this aging thing, etc.). Through it all though I got the kids out on some bigger trips this year beyond our regular trips to Yosemite. We drove from California to Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming and Glacier National Park in Montana. With my focus on the boys having a great experience my normal serious photographic endeavors were kept on the sideline. As always I felt good with that decision after hearing how much they loved Glacier National Park, especially given Glacier it is a personal favorite of mine. In 2020 I’m looking forward to exploring more of my favorite locations with them and seeing it all a new through their eyes.  All that being said enjoy my best of the year…

 

Landscapes & Wildlife

Much of my time outdoors this year was spent showing the boys more of my favorite locations and experiencing the great outdoors while indulging them with great views and of course many evenings of campfires and s’mores. The following view at Two Medicine lake in Glacier National Park was incredibly memorable as we explored the shore and skipped rocks.

Two Medicine Lake

A serene moment at Two Medicine Lake in Glacier National Park

 

Of all my time at Glacier National Park I’ve never once seen a Pika… until this year. Not only are they well camouflaged and hard to see, but they’re incredibly fast. Being small even photographing them with a 400mm lens isn’t nearly enough magnification. The first photo below is a severely cropped photo taken at 400mm. The uncropped photos, 2 down, is included to give you an idea of how hard it is to find them in a rock pile. Add in their constant state of running, to forage food for the winter, you have an even tougher subject to photograph. That said I do have a good number of Pika butt photos now.

North American pika (Ochotona princeps)

North American pika (Ochotona princeps) at Logan Pass, Glacier National Park

North American pika (Ochotona princeps)

North American pika (Ochotona princeps) at Logan Pass, Glacier National Park

 

While in Glacier National Park it’s always fun to see marmots scurrying about. On a hike at Logan Pass my boys and I saw several. One of the more interesting was perched in a tree surveying his territory.

Hoary marmot – Glacier National Park, Montana

A hoary marmot (Marmota caligata) in wildflowers at Logan Pass, Glacier National Park in Montana.

Hoary marmot in a tree – Glacier National Park, Montana

A hoary marmot (Marmota caligata) resting on a fallen tree – Glacier National Park

 

Adventures with the Kids

My boys enjoying a brief encounter with a curious ground squirrel was amusing. Even more amusing was the play structure my youngest son built for him with rocks near his den.

Kids meeting a ground squirrel

My kids meeting a ground squirrel while on a hike at Logan Pass, Glacier National Park in Montana

 

My youngest still has not shaken his interest in photography. While he wasn’t as steadfast about using a tripod this year he still seemed to enjoy taking some ‘serious’ photos.

Young Photographer

My son photographing a waterfall in Glacier National Park

 

A brief moment my kids weren’t a blur from running around, tackling each other, and/or tackling me.The Dudes

 

A personal favorite of mine taken by a passing hiker. Thanks unknown hiker, I salute you and your ability to capture a well framed photo while maintaining focus. You’d be surprised how hard it is to get that even with an iPhone.The Dudes and I

Thanks for checking in and Happy New Year!


JMG-Galleries – Landscape, Nature & Travel Photography

 
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The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019

04 Jan

The post The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Do you like to print your photos? In this video from, 10BestOnes, they delve into the 5 Best portable photo printers in 2019. Starting from number 5 and working down to number 1.

Are there any others you would add to this list? If so, share with us in the comments!

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The 5 Best portable photo printers in 2019

5. Kodak Mini 2

The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019

The Kodak Mini 2 is a small size, measuring 1x3x5.2 inches, and features a colorful print quality that uses a 5-step layered printing process. The images have great vibrancy and detail.

It has ease of use, a fast set-up, and great functionality with the mobile app. The Kodak Mini 2 comes in white, black, blue, pink, and purple and is small enough to fit in your pocket.

Its uncomplicated design consists of a power button and a USB port for charging the printer. There is a built-in lithium battery lasting for around 15 prints.

The Kodak Mini comes with a Kodak app for Android and IOS devices. It is great for editing and adjusting images for print, and has some great templates for printing business or greeting cards. It prints wirelessly at a speed of 1min15sec for a 2.1×3.4 inch photo.

4. Fujifilm Instax SP-3

The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019

Fujifilm is a leading expert in photography, bringing the retro look back to photography. The Fujifilm Instax SP-3 continues the retro vibes with prints that look like polaroids.

It’s portable, with great ease-of-use, and works great with smartphones.

It has an attractive design with a high-quality build made from soft plastic. It’s expertly constructed, as it should be with its premium price tag.

The device measures 6.1×6.1×3.7 inches (weighs 1.3 pounds) in total, meaning it can fit in most backpacks.

The Fujifilm Instax SP-3 has a rechargeable battery. LED lights on the printer let you know how many shots you have remaining before having to recharge the printer. It also has a reprint button so you can easily reprint the same image as many times as you like without having to go through the app each time.

The app is attractive and intuitive and has a history section, too, so you can go back and easily print photos you’ve previously printed.

Fujifilm Instax SP-3 print size is a square format at 2.4×2.4 inches at a resolution of about 800×800, which gives 318dpi. The color and reproduction are fantastic, and it takes around 13 seconds to print.

3. Kodak Mini Shot

kodak-minishot

The Kodak Mini Shot is an instant camera and printer in one retro-style device. Available in a range of colors, the camera comes in blue, pink, yellow, purple, black, and white.

Measuring 5.2x3x0.9 inches in size, the Kodak Mini Shot weighs only 0.5 pounds, meaning it can easily fit into your pocket.

On the back are a small LCD display and set of buttons that allow you to select and print your photos.

However, there are a few downsides to this device.

There is no way to save your photos to the device for printing later. It has no viewfinder, making it difficult to see if your subject is in focus. The battery life is not great, and the LCD screen takes a while to refresh when you move the camera.

Downsides aside, the print quality is still relatively good. It prints in a 2.1×3.4 inch format and takes about 30 seconds to print.

Also, the app delivers filters and customizations before printing.

2. The Polaroid Mint

The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019

The Polaroid Mint has amazing qualities in a hipster, light package. It has the best battery life and photo quality from a portable printer. It’s pocket-sized, measuring in at 4.5x3x0.7 inches and weighing 7.2 ounces.

It has a simple design with the Polaroid logo engraved on its body and is available in black, blue, yellow, red, and white.

The Polaroid Mint can house 50 print sheets in its body. It has a rechargeable, 900mah battery with amazing run time, with the ability to print about 40 photos on a single charge. It uses zinc zero-ink paper that can easily slide into the device. Moreover, you don’t need to replace ink cartridges because it doesn’t use them.

The Polaroid Mint has wireless connectivity, linking to the app on your phone. It can also lodge a micro SD card up to 256GB so that you can store photos in it.

The print size is the standard 2×3 inches. It prints with amazing quality and contrast.

1. HP X7NO7A Sprocket

The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019

The best overall printer in the market is the HP X7NO7A Sprocket. It’s a small and portable device with easy-to-use functions, quick print speed, and integration with its app, Facebook and Instagram, and other features to make your life easier.

Utilizing zinc sheets, the HP X7NO7A Sprocket doesn’t use ink cartridges. It has a well-made design with a sleek look, and rounded corners. The size of the HP X7NO7A Sprocket is 4.5x3x0.9 inches, and it weighs 6 ounces.

The white casing has copper details around the center and logo, and there are minimal details. It only has the power button and the USB socket. Its connectivity is only via Bluetooth.

The app is fool-proof and makes editing and printing your photos very easy. It can print a photo in 42 seconds. While the print quality is great, the color isn’t very saturated. However, overall, the device delivers tremendous value for the price.

 

You may also find the following helpful:

  • Practical Color Management – How to Set Up Your Printer to Match Your Monitor
  • How to get more from your printer – besides good quality prints!
  • Printers – Laser vs Inkjet
  • Polaroid PoGo Mobile Printer Review
  • Photo Printers: Choosing the Best One for Your Needs

The post The 5 Best Portable Photo Printers in 2019 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Video: Adobe Lightroom trick makes it easy to search images for sensor spots

04 Jan

Professional photographer Anthony Morganti of ‘I Am Mr Photographer’ has published a new video that shows viewers how to systematically search for sensor spots (or water droplets and other unwanted specks) in an image using Adobe Lightroom Classic. The method is very simple and relies on a few keyboard shortcuts, as Morganti explains in his video.

Using this method, Lightroom users zoom in on the image and set the zoom box to the upper left-hand side of the image. From there, Morganti simply uses his computer’s Page Down function to scan through zoomed portions of the image in columns. The video includes instructions for viewers using Mac and viewers whose keyboards lack dedicated shortcut keys, among other things.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Oppo patent shows camera module that pops out of the side of a smartphone

04 Jan

Smartphone manufacturers have come up with a variety of solutions to maximize the screen surface to size ration on smartphones, including hole-punch front cameras, camera notches and pop-up mechanisms of various kinds.

In a patent filing found in the CNIPA (China National Intellectual Property Administration) database Oppo is now adding a new variant: the sideways pop-out front camera.

In the reference images, we can see a motorized camera module placed on the right-hand side of the phone on roughly the same height as the rear camera. The power button is located on the same side of the phone while volume rockers and SIM-tray can be found on the left. The speaker and USB-C connectors are at the bottom.

As usual, there is no way of knowing if this idea ever makes it into an actual production device but it’s good to see manufacturers are looking into new ways of optimizing space in the thin bodies of modern smartphones.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

04 Jan

The post 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

If you want to capture amazing bird photos, you absolutely need to master your camera settings.

Because camera settings determine whether your bird photos look blurry or sharp, well-exposed or lacking details.

In other words, your camera settings can be the difference between a great photo and a mediocre photo.

Which is why this article is dedicated to giving you the five camera settings that every bird photographer should know.

That way, you’ll never struggle to choose the correct camera settings again.

Let’s get started.

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

1. Use Aperture Priority or Manual mode to set your exposure

First things first:

If you want to create beautiful bird photos, you have to make sure they’re well-exposed. This means that you need the right aperture and right shutter speed to create a bright, detailed photo.

How do you ensure that you capture a well-exposed bird photo?

You use Aperture Priority or Manual mode.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Both of these modes are available via the Mode Dial on most cameras. Aperture Priority is the easier mode to use: It allows you to choose an aperture, while your camera selects a shutter speed based on its evaluation of the ambient light.

Manual mode forces you to choose both an aperture and a shutter speed. However, the camera viewfinder displays a bar that shows whether your choices will result in underexposure, overexposure, or an exposure that’s just right. If you use Manual mode, then you must carefully observe this bar to determine the best aperture and shutter speed for each photo.

If you’re a beginner, or if you’re shooting fast-paced scenes, Aperture Priority is generally the best choice. You can dial in a wide aperture (usually between f/5.6 and f/7.1), then allow your camera to choose a shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too low (more on that later!), then you can raise the ISO to compensate.

Manual mode is a bit trickier to use and takes some getting used to. Once you feel confident in your exposure skills, Manual mode might be the way to go. Manual mode is also a good choice if the background is changing rapidly, but the light on the bird remains the same (such as when you’re photographing a bird in flight). In such a situation, Manual mode will prevent the camera meter from changing your shutter speed in response to the changing background.

Here’s the bottom line:

To get a perfect exposure, you need to take control of your camera settings. And that starts by choosing a camera mode.

Both Aperture Priority and Manual will work. Start with Aperture Priority and, if you like, you can always work up to using Manual.

2. Use back-button focus to capture tack-sharp photos

Back-button focus is one of my favorite camera features because it’s just so amazingly useful.

Here’s why:

Back-button autofocus allows you to control your camera’s focus via a button on the camera’s back (sometimes labeled AF-ON). Rather than pressing the shutter button halfway to focus, then the rest of the way to capture a shot, back-button focus allows you to separate these two functions.

The shutter button is used for taking pictures.

And the AF-ON button is used for focusing.

This is invaluable if you want to focus and recompose, then track a moving subject, then focus and recompose again.

(You’ll want to make sure you’ve set your autofocus mode to AI-Servo, also known as AF-C.)

You see, if you press and hold the AF-ON button, it activates the continuous autofocus, which will track a moving subject.

But once you let go of the AF-ON button, the autofocus locks in place. Now the autofocus acts like one-shot AF, which locks focus and stays focused.

So if you come upon a bird that’s moving, you can track it via back-button focus. But as soon as the bird stops moving, you can let go of the AF-ON button, and test out different compositions, knowing that the focus won’t change.

The ibis in the photo below was moving along the water’s edge, but then stopped so I could grab this photo. I focused on the eye, but then reframed (a perfect situation for back-button focus!).

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Cool, right?

Plus, if you accidentally let go of the shutter button, you don’t have to deal with refocusing. Back-button focus stays locked in place.

That’s the power of back-button focus!

To set up back-button autofocus does take a bit of fiddling with camera settings, which is beyond the scope of this article. So take a look in your camera’s manual (or do a bit of Googling!). It’s worth it, I promise.

3. Use continuous shooting to nail the action shots

Bird photography often gives you the opportunity to capture amazing action shots. Photos of birds flying through the air, birds diving into the water, birds capturing fish.

But here’s the thing:

It’s easy to miss the action if you’re not prepared.

After all, birds move fast.

That’s why continuous shooting comes in handy.

Pretty much all cameras have a continuous shooting mode, these days. Continuous shooting allows you to fire off a burst of photos, generally between 5 frames per second and 15 frames per second.

So whenever you go out to do bird photography, switch your shooting mode to continuous shooting.

And then, when the action heats up, start shooting burst rather than single shots.

That’s what I did for this little blue heron shot. When the bird began to hunt, I started shooting in bursts, so I could be sure to get sharp shots with the beak near the water!

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

Will you get a lot of throwaway images? Sure.

But you’ll also have a much better chance of getting the perfect image. So it’s undoubtedly worth it!

You do want to be careful, however, because your camera’s buffer can fill up quickly. When that happens, you won’t be able to shoot bursts until the camera has processed some of the images.

Just be mindful of your camera’s buffer.

And you’ll get some shots of a lifetime.

4. Choose a shutter speed of at least 1/500s (and probably faster)

If you want to capture sharp bird photos, then you have to use a fast shutter speed.

Because the shutter speed is what determines whether you freeze the scene, or whether it turns into one unpleasant blur.

Now, there is no one ideal shutter speed. If the bird in your scene is stationary, you’ll need a much slower shutter speed than if the bird in your scene is flapping its wings wildly.

But I can give you some recommendations that should ensure you get sharp bird photos, consistently.

First, if you’re shooting a motionless bird (for instance, a bird that’s sleeping or standing still), I recommend using a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second. This is to compensate for the length of your lens because longer lenses result in more potential for camera shake.

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Second, if you’re shooting a bird that’s moving at a slow to medium speed, around 1/1000th of a second is a good choice. This will freeze the movement, but won’t force you to crank up the ISO to compensate for underexposure.

Third, if you’re shooting a fast-moving bird, you should choose a shutter speed of at least 1/2000th. If the bird is flying at high speeds, then 1/2500th, 1/3200th, or even 1/4000th is a good choice. Birds move fast, and you don’t want to end up with a blurry shot because your shutter speed was a hair too slow.

5. Use the lowest ISO you can afford for noise-free photos

In bird photography, shutter speed and ISO tend to balance one another out.

If you choose a slower shutter speed, you don’t need a high ISO; if you choose a high ISO, you don’t need a slow shutter speed.

Now, ISO comes with a big downside: The higher the ISO, the more noise you’ll get in your photos. And noise is pretty much always bad.

On the other hand, a high ISO increases the brightness of your photos, which allows you to use a lightning-fast shutter speed without worry.

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

So what do you do? How do you choose your ISO?

I recommend you start by determining an acceptable shutter speed. Use the guidelines in the previous tip if you’re struggling.

Then push your ISO up until you’ve reached your determined shutter speed – but don’t go any higher than you have to.

Because here’s the thing:

It’s better to get a noisy image than a blurry image. But the holy grail of photography is achieving sharp photos without noise.

So keep your ISO to a minimum.

And you’ll get the best possible shot.

5 camera settings every bird photographer should know: Conclusion

bird-photography-camera-settings-tips

Choosing the best settings for bird photography may seem difficult, but it doesn’t have to be.

Just remember the five camera settings that I’ve shared.

And you’ll be capturing amazing photos in no time!

If you have any other tips on bird photography camera settings, please share with us in the comments below, along with any photos you’d like to share.

The post 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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OnePlus teases prototype smartphone with disappearing rear camera

03 Jan

OnePlus is expected to display its Concept One prototype smartphone at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas next week. At this point there are no plans to put the Concept One into production, instead, the device is meant to showcase OnePlus innovation in mobile device tech.

Ahead of the show the company has already posted a teaser video on Twitter, showing an ‘invisible’ rear camera that can be hidden under the glass rear panel. According to OnePlus ‘color-shifting glass technology’ is used to achieve the effect.

The team at Wired already had the chance to have a closer look at the technology and reports OnePlus is using the same technology found in sunroofs to control the transparency of the glass panel. When inactive the camera is hidden under tinted glass. When the camera is in use, the tint can be adjusted via an electrical signal and the camera and lenses become visible behind the panel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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TTArtisan launches 11mm F2.8 fisheye lens for Sony E-mount systems

03 Jan

Chinese lens company TTArtisan has announced the availability of its new 11mm F2.8 fisheye lens for Sony E-mount camera systems.

The lens’ optical formula consists of 11 elements in 7 groups. It’s constructed of aluminum and brass and features an aperture range of F2.8-F16 with clicked aperture points.

It has a minimum focusing distance of 17cm, a ten-blade aperture diaphragm and weighs in at 485g. It is currently available to order for $ 215.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Why DaVinci Resolve 16 is the best video editing software for beginners

03 Jan

Blackmagic Design DaVinci Resolve 16
Free | blackmagicdesign.com

Resolve 16, a tool for all creators?

The explosion of user generated video content for websites like YouTube has led to the launch of several competing non-linear-editors (NLEs) aimed at consumers, which vary in terms of price, feature set and upgradability. So, how do you choose which one to use?

One great option is DaVinci Resolve 16 from Blackmagic Design. The software is available for free from Blackmagic, but it’s not the only low-cost entry in the NLE arena, so what makes it different, and why is it so attractive to users getting into video editing for the first time?

First, a little bit of history. Originally created by da Vinci Systems in 1985, the software was designed mainly for color grading and color correction and ran on hardware costing more that $ 150,000. It has evolved both in terms of features and pricing model since Blackmagic Design acquired it in 2009. The most recent version, Resolve 16, introduces a more streamlined and less complicated workflow for many users, particularly those new to using NLEs, to edit video.

First time users

Opening up the software for the first time can be rather intimidating for those who haven’t used an NLE before. The sheer number of windows and buttons can be rather daunting. The only NLE I can think of which doesn’t introduce this sort of shock is iMovie, however that program has limitations for users who might want to move their work into the professional arena.

When opening Resolve you’re initially greeted with a window that allows you to open an existing project or create a new one. Once you have a project open in the main interface, you’ll see a row of workspaces for various parts of your edit along the bottom of the window. Blackmagic calls them ‘pages’. These are termed Media, Cut, Edit, Fusion, Color and Deliver, and are arranged left to right in order to assist with the workflow. You can jump between pages at any point.

The newly introduced Cut page allows a more simplified workflow.

Is it complicated?

The introduction of the new Cut page in Resolve 16 has simplified some of the traditional workflow that was visually complicated. The inclusion of a page with fewer options will attract a number of new users. It’s very easy to quickly add shots to the timeline and trim them without having to invoke the more complicated Edit page, which can be a little complicated.

The quick export option allows access to some render presets without the need for the Deliver page.

That’s not to say that you have to use the Cut page since at any time you can jump between any of the pages. This might seem confusing at first, but it’s done in a way that allows you to use the more complicated features when you’re ready. When you start out, for example, you may find that you don’t need to use the Fusion page (for VFX work) or Fairlight page (for audio), but inevitably you will probably want to use some of the features these pages offer as your skills and requirements change. The other great thing about the Cut page is that a number of common functions can also be accessed there. For example, there’s no need to go into the Deliver page to render files as you can export your edit within the Cut page.

One thing you don’t get is any sort of guided workflow. Some basic previous knowledge is assumed, but there are plenty of excellent online tutorial videos available on YouTube from channels like learncolorgrading and JayAreTV.

The Fairlight page enables fine tuning of your audio with features like EQ and dynamics filters.

As with any new version of software , the launch of Resolve 16 brings a lot of added features and improvements. For example, with previous versions it was easy to start editing only to realize later that the key settings – resolution and frame rate – had not been set correctly. In the past this could mean that you had to start again for optimal results. This is no longer a problem with Resolve 16 as a new timeline can be created with the correct settings without the need to create a new project.

How much?

I mentioned this selling point in a previous paragraph, but what exactly is the cost of Resolve 16?…$ 0. Yes, that’s correct, you can download and use Resolve 16 for free. No time limited trial, no logo burn in and no limitation to the length of your final output.

Yes, that’s correct, you can download and use Resolve 16 for free.

The free version of DaVinci Resolve does have some limitations, although a lot of these may not be important for those just starting out or even the more advanced user. Some key limitations are that the free version doesn’t offer HDR support or timelines with a resolution greater than UHD 4K. You’re also limited to using a single GPU, and I’ve found that the rendering speeds with the studio version are appreciably quicker. This is because you can select native Cuda acceleration in the Deliver page if you have an Nvidia graphics card.

There are other limitations as well which are detailed here, although the linked table should only be used as a guideline since, at the time of writing, it hasn’t been updated to Resolve 16 yet.

The Deliver page enables multiple exports for different platforms.

Will it work with my hardware?

There are, of course, some minimum hardware requirements for Resolve but these are quite reasonable. (It would be great to get a definitive requirements list from Black Magic Design, but that doesn’t seem to be available.)

To give you an idea of what’s possible, I previously ran version 14 on a 2012 Macbook Pro and, although a little slow, it did work. My current setup uses an AMD Ryzen 1700x with 32GB of RAM, along with an Nvidia GTX 1070Ti, and it works well for me. That’s not to say things wouldn’t be much quicker with better hardware but that’s a nice thing to have rather than a necessity.

One of the many upgrade options: the dedicated Resolve 16 keyboard, which includes a real jog shuttle wheel.

What’s the catch?

So why does Blackmagic offer such a full featured video editor for nothing? Well, they’re hoping that you like the free version of Resolve so much that you want to buy into their ecosystem. The upgrade path to Resolve Studio costs $ 299, but Blackmagic also sells a number of related hardware products that will assist you in your editing. These range from a dedicated editor keyboard at $ 995 to a control grading surface at $ 1025, and even a full production suite which retails at a staggering $ 30,805. This might seem like overkill for people just starting out, but you should know that Resolve is also used in professional post production facilities world-wide. There are options for all budgets.

The next question is which version should you get, the free version or Studio? There’s no penalty in trying the free version and then upgrading later if you need features in the Studio version. Why upgrade? For me it meant faster renders, and time is money. I also considered some of the additional VFX filters that are included for $ 299 and it made sense for me.

You can also upgrade the Studio version without cost to the next version. I went from 15 Studio to 16 Studio without paying any extra. Traditionally, this has been a selling point of Resolve.

Resolve 16 offers comprehensive color grading tools, including power windows

Help, I’m stuck

In addition to YouTube there’s a very active user community via the Blackmagic forums where developers and industry professionals with hundreds of years of combined experience can help you out. There are always more features that could be included, and as the number of users of Resolve has expanded so have the feature requests. Blackmagic is listening, hence the introduction of the Cut page and the ability to create timelines in the same project that have different frame rates and resolutions.

There’s also the recently published Beginner’s Guide to Using Resolve 16, but at 444 pages it may take some time to get through.

Is it for you?

The short answer is, it depends. I’d say give it a go, after all it costs nothing to try it. If you find it difficult to use then try watching some of the videos linked above. I find myself watching some of them when new features are introduced or if I need to look at a function that I’ve never used.

There are many functions you may never use, but it’s great to know they’re available if you ever need them. If you’re not limited by the software, you can develop your skill set as and when required.

What we like

  • Free version works for most users
  • Modest hardware requirements
  • Available for Windows, Mac and Linux
  • Excellent support resources, especially via YouTube
  • Reasonable upgrade cost if you require additional functions ($ 299)

What we don’t like

  • Can appear intimidating to new users
  • Lacks some support documentation

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DJI releases ‘GEO zone’ firmware update for the Mavic Mini

03 Jan

When DJI announced the Mavic Mini, its 249-gram drone that doesn’t require registration (unless used for commercial purposes), the general public was disappointed with the fact that it was missing some important features. One of those was the inability to unlock GEO Zones. Right in time for the New Year, DJI has released its latest firmware update, v01.00.0400, which also includes two important safety features.

The latest firmware update for v1.0.4, or later, of the iOS and Android version of the DJI Fly app now allows you to unlock GEO Zones. DJI also added in a feature that prevents you from taking off when the GPS signal is weak (GPS <8) and the environment light is too weak to safely operate the aircraft. This feature has been missing from all previous firmware updates, including those created for the DJI GO app, and will hopefully be implemented there, as well, going forward.

Another pertinent safety update is the requirement for compass calibration before takeoff if environment light is not sufficient or if the compass experiences magnetic interference. The latter is a leading cause of flyaways. The Mavic Mini is an entry-level drone that appeals to beginners who are especially susceptible to losing a drone. Anyone who remembers the disaster that took place in Las Vegas, when a drone flew off and landed on an airport runway, will appreciate this feature. To properly calibrate a compass, make sure you do so in an area absent of any magnetic interference.

A few other new features in the firmware update include:

  • Adjusted flight altitude and distance in payload mode.
  • Added warning prompt for battery cycles.
  • Reduced noise during self-diagnostics after powering on.
  • Fixed issue: linking was abnormal in some regions.

DJI has also noted that ‘the update may reset various main controller settings, such as the RTH altitude and the maximum flight distance, to default settings. Before updating, take note of your preferred DJI Fly settings, and readjust them after the update.’ If the update fails, it is recommended that users restart the aircraft, remote controller, and DJI Fly or DJI Assistant 2 for Mavic, and retry.

Red Zones are Restricted Zones. Users will be prompted with a warning and the flight won’t be authorized. Anyone who believes they have permission to operate in a Restricted Zone has to contact flysafe@dji.com or go through the Online Unlocking portal on DJI’s Fly Safe site.

When it comes to GEO Zones, unlocking a low-risk area requires a few taps or clicks. High-risk zones require prior approval, along with proof of credentials, and can’t be accessed within the Fly app. Basically, don’t attempt to unlock a high-risk or Red Zone, especially in close proximity to an airport, unless you know what you’re doing. Information, and other safety tips, can be found on DJI’s Fly Safe portal.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DIY large format camera ‘Bertha’ shoots massive 1.1 x 1.1-meter slides

03 Jan

The Branco Ottico team in Italy has showcased ‘Bertha,’ a giant large format camera that can be used to capture 1.1 x 1.1m (3.6ft) slides. A report about the camera’s creation, as well as some images of the assembly process, were recently shared over at DIY Photography. The team explains that Berta is designed to ‘create unique works’ using the ROBA APPOSTA inversion kit chemical process created by Branco Ottico.

Bertha features a modular aluminum frame, a bellows draft measuring around 4m (13.12ft) in length and a 1000mm F6.3 lens. The camera can be used to capture portraits in macro mode, according to the team, which says they also have a mobile darkroom for capturing portraits outdoors. The team will tune the camera in early 2020, then take it and the mobile darkroom on a tour to capture portraits of people on the road.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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