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  • Laowa 15mm F2 Zero-D sample gallery: aurora borealis and architecture

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    The Laowa 15mm F2 Zero-D from Venus Optics is a fast, wide prime lens for full frame mirrorless cameras, available in RF-mount, E-mount, and Z-mount. Like Lawoa’s other ‘Zero-D’ lenses it’s designed to have extremely limited distortion despite the short focal length.

    We’ve included a number of images representing two common use cases for this type of lens: astrophotography and architectural photography. Overall, it provides excellent results and delivers on its promise of minimal distortion. Not surprisingly, there’s some vignetting wide open, but it clears up pretty quickly when stopped down and – if desired – is corrected quite well using the lens profile in Adobe Camera Raw.

    To illustrate the point, here’s an uncorrected sequence of dark sky photos shot at F2, F2.8, F4 and F5.6. The original Raw files for these images can be downloaded from the sample gallery if you want to make your own comparisons. Click through to the gallery to see all the images.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography

    The post Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

    tips-epic-adventure-photography

    Adventure photography is one of the most exciting genres of photography and an opportunity to uncover unexpected places. Capturing epic adventure photography can be described as the art of photographing adventures, typically in the outdoors. It can involve exploring amazing places and experiencing new things, all whilst capturing the accomplishment with your camera.

    Whatever the place or experience, adventure is about much more than scaling a famous mountain, such as Everest, and covers the world beyond outdoor pursuits. Whether it is cruising down the Nile, drinking beer or eating favorite dishes with the locals, or appreciating street art within an inner-city, it’s all a personal adventure. Here are some top tips for capturing these exploits of adventure.

    1. Go on an epic photography adventure

    epic adventure photography 01

    Cappadocia, Turkey

    One of the best things you can do to shoot epic adventure photography is to go on an adventure. Grab your camera and get outdoors. Go and explore a familiar or unfamiliar location. You may have a passion for mountains, epic wild scenery, or even rivers or seas, whichever you prefer, get out there and have fun.

    Scout out a location and find a great view that you would like to photograph. Be sure to record the adventure and your surroundings.

    2. Bring the right gear

    It is hugely important to bring the right gear. But, don’t just think about your camera gear.

    Depending on whether you are going for a day or several days, pack enough food, water, and warm clothing for your needs, such as a hat, gloves, and extra layers. Then pack more snacks in case you encounter any difficulties and to keep your energy levels up. Looking after your body is essential, so bring a first aid kit too in case of unforeseen emergencies. Be sure to check the weather forecast and plan ahead accordingly. You may need to bring wet weather gear too, such as a waterproof jacket and trousers.

    Whatever you decide to take with you, plan ahead and pack lightly. And remember, safety is paramount.

    3. Include a person in the frame

    Image: Paddleboarding, Lake Bled, Slovenia

    Paddleboarding, Lake Bled, Slovenia

    One great way to document epic adventure photography is to include a person in the frame. This will help to show the spirit of adventure. Hiking, biking, backpacking, camping, boating, and general exploration are all great activities of adventure. You could illustrate your adventures by including yourself in the shot or someone else doing adventurous activities such as a hiker walking within a landscape, a jogger on a trail, a paddle boarder on a river, or a cyclist on a road or dirt track.

    The options for outdoor subjects are endless.

    4. Show scale

    To help your images stand out, show scale. Include an extra element such as an object or a people (discussed above) to help show their real size compared with the height of mountains in a valley, such as these people on horseback.

    epic adventure photography 03

    Horse riding, Grand Tetons, Wyoming, USA

    For example, the width of a river, or vastness of a plain, will be better understood by the viewer when including a raft or backpacker.

    Other interesting subjects you can shoot to show scale include a boat in the sea, a tent on a hilltop, mountain walkers on an adventure, snowboarders or people skiing.

    epic adventure photography 04

    Trekking in the Himalayas, Nepal

    5. Find a unique perspective

    There are wonderful adventures to be experienced everywhere around the world. Find a striking and effective composition that shows a unique perspective and interesting side to your adventures.

    Image: Kayaking in the Philippines

    Kayaking in the Philippines

    6. Protect your gear

    When you are doing an epic adventure photography trip, make sure you look after your gear. You don’t want to damage your equipment in adverse conditions, so assess your potential environment prior to departure.

    Camera protection is critical, so apply common sense when preparing your kit. Put your camera inside a waterproof cover if it is raining. Pack it in a well-cushioned bag if you are climbing over rocks or uneven terrain to prevent damaging your camera if you slip. Also, use a waterproof case or bag when shooting from the water. Freshwater and saltwater are corrosive and will damage your camera if you come into contact with these elements.

    Conclusion

    Enjoy your time outdoors with your camera and capture some epic adventure photography. Whether you are a solo adventure photographer, or enjoy having a person with you, apply these tips of including people, showing scale, finding a perspective, and taking the right gear and go and take your best ever adventure photos.

    We look forward to seeing what you capture. Share your images with us below.

    Get more from your travel photography with the e-book, Transcending Travel.

     

    The post Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


    Digital Photography School

  • How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    The post How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    make-your-photos-pop-lightroom

    Are you looking to spice up your photos in Lightroom? Do you want a few quick edits that will really make your photos pop?

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    That’s what this article is all about.

    I’m going to give you four key edits that will absolutely revolutionize your Lightroom post-processing. You’ll come away knowing exactly how to make your photos stand out…

    …just by moving a few sliders.

    Sound good?

    Let’s get started.

    1. Boost the overall contrast with the basic panel

    If you want to make your photos pop, then you should start with contrast.

    Because contrast is the lifeblood of punchy, impactful photography.

    Contrast can take a photo looking dull, boring, flat, and lifeless, like this:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    And singlehandedly turn it into something worth looking at, like this:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Now, there is such a thing as too much contrast. But most photos need more contrast, not less! So I give you my permission to really crank up that contrast in Lightroom. Even if it feels like your photos already have enough contrast, I recommend you add some and see how it looks. Boosting the contrast can be an eye-opening experience. You may realize that you’ve been depriving your images for years.

    There are a few ways you can boost the contrast, and they all start by heading over to the Lightroom Develop module:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Take a look at the Basic panel on the righthand side:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Then, if you want a quick and dirty way to see how your photo looks with more contrast, just crank up the Contrast slider.

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    And for a lot of images, this is enough.

    But if you want to take things further, you can work with the Tone sliders. In particular, raising the Whites and dropping the Blacks can combine contrast with some much-needed tonal range. In other words, this will make your photo span the entire spectrum of tones, from black to white (which often looks great!).

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Bottom line:

    A bit (or more than a bit!) of contrast can go a long way.

    2. Add Clarity or Texture to give the details some punch

    Once you’ve finished working on the overall contrast, it’s time to consider amplifying the details.

    And that’s what the Clarity and Texture sliders do really, really well.

    Both of these tools sit in the Basic panel, just like the contrast sliders:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Now, Clarity offers a powerful, punchy effect. The slider adds contrast to the mid-tones of your photos, and the result is to make details and edges really stand out. Check out the before (left) and after (right):

    make-your-photos-pop-clarity-before-after

    Texture, on the other hand, is a bit more refined. This slider basically sharpens the detail in your images, (but leaves the fine details alone). So Texture is a great option for dealing with images that have, well, texture. Rocks, walls, and peeling paint all look good with the Texture adjustment applied.

    Here’s the same photo, without Texture (left) and with Texture (right):

    make-your-photos-pop-texture-before-after

    Because Lightroom is non-destructive, there’s no harm in trying out both adjustments and seeing which you prefer. Personally, I use Clarity more often than I use Texture, but they both have their place, and they can both make your details stand out.

    A word of caution, however:

    Clarity and Texture are both pretty easy to overdo. If your photos start to look crunchy, then it’s time to back off. Making details stand out is all well and good, but you don’t want to take things too far!

    3. Boost the Vibrance or Saturation for rich colors

    Up until now, I’ve talked about the value of contrast to make your photos pop.

    But what about making the colors pop?

    Deep, rich colors can add a lot to your images. Look at the difference between the colors in this photo:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Versus this one (where I’ve applied some basic color edits):

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Neat, right? And it doesn’t take much effort at all to pull this off. I regularly punch up my colors using either the Vibrance or Saturation slider in Lightroom. Just push the relevant slider to the right, and you’re done.

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    But how do you know whether to boost the Vibrance slider or the Saturation slider?

    Well, as with Texture and Clarity, there’s no harm in testing out both options. But it’s worth knowing the difference between the two:

    The Saturation slider boosts the intensity of your colors all throughout the image, whereas the Vibrance slider is more refined (kind of like a Smart Saturation tool). Vibrance will boost the intensity of colors, but only those colors that are less saturated, as well as skin tones.

    So Vibrance is often a better choice when you’re dealing with variations in saturation levels, or when people are featured. Vibrance will keep colors from becoming oversaturated and will keep skin tones looking natural.

    4. Add a subtle vignette to focus on your main subject

    Here’s the last way you can make your photos pop and stand out:

    Vignetting.

    A vignette is a darkening effect that is generally placed at the edges of your photos, to keep the viewer focused on the main subject.

    Here’s a (too strong) vignette for the sake of demonstration:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    In fact, the best vignettes are barely perceptible. Too much vignetting, and your photos will look muddy and unprofessional.

    You want a vignette like this, instead:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Do you see what I mean?

    Now, here’s how to create a beautiful (but still subtle!) vignette in Lightroom:

    Open your photo in the Develop module. Scroll down the panels on the right side until you find Effects:

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Then, under Post-Crop Vignetting, drag the Amount slider to all the way to the left. You should notice an immediate vignetting effect on your photo.

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    Next, if your subject takes up much of the frame, you may want to boost the Midpoint slider a bit, to make sure that your main point of interest stays out of the vignette’s path.

    And you’re also free to change the shape of the vignette (with the Roundness slider), as well as the transition strength (with the Feather slider). You can even preserve the highlights by boosting the Highlights slider if you so choose.

    Finally, dial your vignette back by boosting the Amount slider…

    …until you end up with a vignette that’s so slight that you can hardly even tell it’s there.

    And that’s it! Now you’ll have a vignette that will focus your viewers, and they’ll hardly even know it.

    How to make your photos pop in Lightroom: Next steps

    As it turns out, it’s not difficult to make your photos pop and be much more eye-catching. All it takes is a few quick edits with the Lightroom sliders.

    I recommend you go back to photos of yours that you’ve edited previously. Give them a bit of a contrast boost, and punch up the colors with some saturation. See how that makes them look.

    You’ll be surprised to find that these simple changes can go a really long way!

    Do you have any favorite Lightroom edits that instantly make your photos stand out? Share them in the comments!

    How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

    The post How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • 12 Days of Belvedere: A look back at puppyhood through sample photos

    12 days of Belvedere

    ISO 1400 | 1/250 sec | F1.8 | Nikon Z6 + Nikon Z 50mm F1.8 S


    Belvedere officially joined the DPReview team last fall as a fourth-month-old pup and quickly became one of our favorite subjects to photograph. By the turn of 2019, he was a common sight in many-a sample gallery. Twelve months later and we have a complete and glorious timeline of his transformation from tiny puppy, to slightly larger puppy!

    As Belvedere’s human and Photo Editor at DPReview, I tasked myself with going back through each month of 2019 to select the top pup photo to share with you, my dear reader, along with the gallery it’s from. We feel this is a nice way to not only look back at all the lovely gear we’ve tested, but also to fill the Internet with additional dog photos, because dogs are good and we love dogs.

    We intend this slideshow to be enjoyed Advent calendar-style, meaning after today you are allowed to view one additional photo up until the 25th, when all can be enjoyed in consecutive order. Think of it as our holiday gift to you. We’re counting on you to not peek ahead!

    And for those curious, Belvedere, a rescue pup, is a mix of Chihuahua, Miniature Pinscher and Miniature Short-haired Dachshund. He likes dehydrated squirrel carcasses, licking bald heads, sitting in laps for hours, turning squeaky toys inside-out and whenever anyone puts on a pair of socks. He weighs 18.4lbs and is a very good boy.

    *All images by Dan Bracaglia except where noted

    January 2019 – Belvedere at 7 months

    ISO 2800 | 1/125 sec | F2.8 | Nikon Z6 + Nikon Z 50mm F1.8 S


    We started off the year busy, publishing 11 sets of sample images in January 2019, including galleries for heavy hitting products like the Sony a6400, Sigma 28mm F1.4 Art and the Olympus E-M1X. But our top Belvedere pick in January comes from our Nikon Z 50mm F.8 S gallery. This one was a tough choice between two tempting pup picks, both from the same gallery. We opted for Belvedere enjoying a cheese stick, but Belvedere on the couch was a close second (we used it as the lead for the story).

    January was also the month we tested the versatile, yet chunky Canon RF 28-70mm F2L as well as the beastly Nikon 500mm F5.6. We also got our hands on a Canon APS-C mirrorless favorite in the Canon EF-M 32mm F1.4 STM.

    See our Nikon Z 50mm F1.8 S gallery

    February 2019 – Belvedere at 8 months

    ISO 12800 | 1/125 sec | F5.6 | Fujifilm GFX 50R + GF 45mm F2.8
    Photo: Carey Rose


    February was a busy months for new gear. We got our hands on pre-production models of the Panasonic S1R and Panasonic S1 (in Barcelona). We also took a pre-production Fujifilm X-T30 for a spin (in Seattle), and freelance contributor Damien Demolder put together a pre-production gallery with the Ricoh GR III (from London).

    Additionally we published final production galleries from the Canon EOS RP, the Fujifilm XF 16mm F2.8 and the oh-so-sharp Sony FE 135mm F1.8 GM. And yet somehow with all the launches and all the galleries shot, we didn’t publish a single Belvedere photo in February. Shame on us. Fortunately DPR’s Carey Rose captured the above image of our dear pup from a, well, not-terribly flattering angle for a Fujifilm GFX 50R gallery published March 1st. It was technically taken in February so we’ll count it.

    See our GFX 50R sample gallery

    March 2019 – Belvedere at 9 months

    ISO 100 | 1/200 sec | F2.8 | Leica Q2


    Things quieted down a little in March. We got our hands on final production versions of both the Panasonic S1 and Panasonic S1R and filled out those galleries with plenty of samples. We also got our hands on Sigma’s outstanding bang-for-the-buck 70-200mm F2.8 Sport as well as their latest long zoom in the 60-600mm F4.5-6.3 Sport.

    Belvedere popped up in several of those galleries, but our favorite photos of him came from the Leica Q2, shot during a sunny afternoon walk. The weather was just starting to warm up in March and Belvedere’s fur was just beginning to go through a rapid and often comical shed and regrowth phase.

    See our Leica Q2 sample gallery

    April 2019 – Belvedere at 10 months

    ISO 64 | 1/320 sec | F2.8 | Nikon Z7 + Z 24-70mm F2.8 @ 70mm


    April was also a somewhat quiet month. We got a final production version of the Fujifilm X-T30 in for testing as well as a final version of the Ricoh GR III. We also shot with Pentax’s new 11-18mm F2.8 ultra-wide zoom and the slightly-less wide Nikon Z 14-30mm F4 S. But it was a different Nikon Z lens behind our favorite April Belvedere shot: the outstandingly sharp Z 24-70mm F2.8. Belvedere’s not even the only handsome pup in said gallery!

    Also important: At 10 months Belvedere wasn’t quite fully grown. He no longer fits under the tight space he’s peeking out from in the image above, though he does try from time to time.

    See our Nikon Z 24-70mm F2.8 S sample gallery

    May 2019 – Belvedere at 11 months

    ISO 125 | 1/200 sec | F4.4 | Ricoh WG-60


    We shot with a wide array of products in May ranging from the image quality king, Fujifilm GFX 100 (pre-production), to the beginner-friendly Canon SL3, to the Panasonic FZ1000 II premium compact. We also called in and tested a number of rugged cameras for our Best Waterproof Camera Guide, including the Olympus TG-6.

    But our favorite Belvedere photo comes from the comparably underpowered Ricoh WG-60, a rugged compact. Which just goes to show, it’s not the quality of the camera that makes the photo, it’s the cuteness of the dog. Here he is soaking up the sunlight from Seattle’s oh-so-long May days.

    See our waterproof camera buying guide

    June 2019 – Belvedere on his birthday

    ISO 200 | 1/40 sec | F2.4 | Samsung Galaxy S10+
    Photo: Jeff Keller


    Belvedere officially turned one year old in June (June 10th if you want to send a gift, he likes bones) and we had ample opportunity to photograph the birthday boy. June was a month in which we shot with a ton of high-end full-frame lenses including the Panasonic S 24-105mm F4, the Panasonic S Pro 50mm F1.4, the Sony FE 600mm F4 GM and the Rokinon SP 35mm F1.2. We also added a nice selection of images to our Fujifilm GFX 100 gallery (still not final firmware, womp).

    But it was the Samsung Galaxy S10+ in the hands of DPR’s Jeff Keller that captured our favorite shot of the young man. A shot that shows him starting to come of age: He’s still got the doofy ‘I’m a puppy’ face, but his coat and body are filling out like a real dog. Nice work, Belvedere.

    See our Samsung Galaxy S10+ sample gallery

    July 2019 – Belvedere at 13 months

    ISO 100 | 1/500 sec | F1.2 | Canon EOS R + RF 85mm F1.2L


    July was a busy month for sample gallery shooting. With the Seattle rain finally dissipating for the season, we took full advantage of the long sunny days. The Sony a7R IV launched and we got ample shooting time with it in New York City. DPR’s Carey Rose also got his hands on several freshly-launched Sigma lenses in Japan, including the Sigma 45mm F2.8 Contemporary, the Sigma 14-24 F2.8 Art and Sigma 35mm F1.2 Art. We also spent time with Tamron’s wide, sharp 17-28mm F2.8 and took Sony’s excellent do-everything pocket camera, the RX100 VII for a spin.

    Other notable galleries include the Canon EOS M100 (in Mexico), the Panasonic Leica 10-25mm F1.7, the Sony 35mm F1.8, the Fujfilm GF 50mm F3.5 and the Rokinon AF 85mm F1.4. Gosh that’s a lot of galleries. But our hands-down favorite Belvedere photo was shot with one of our favorite portrait lenses of the year, the Canon RF 85mm F1.2L. Just look at that happy boy! He knows the bokeh is creamy.

    See our Canon RF 85mm F1.2L
    sample gallery

    August 2019 – Belvedere at 14 months

    ISO 125 | 1/30 sec | F2.8 | Canon G5 X mark II


    August saw major launches from two brands, Canon with its enthusiast APS-C siblings in the Canon EOS 90D and Canon EOS M6 Mark II and Sony with its APS-C siblings in the Sony a6100 and the Sony a6600. We also finally got our hands on a final production Fujifilm GFX 100 as well as a final production Panasonic G95.

    Additionally we shot with the very sharp Nikon Z 35mm F1.8 S, the Canon RF 24-240mm F4-6.3 and the Tamron 35-150mm F2.8-4. Finally Canon’s two latest compacts, the Canon G7 X III and the Canon G5 X II also showed up at our office for sample shooting and testing. Our favorite Belvedere photo from the month was taken on the latter. Note: If Belvedere looks extra fluffy in this image it’s because he had just received a bath after his very first puppy swim.

    See our Canon PowerShot G5 X II gallery

    September 2019 – Belvedere at 15 months

    ISO 64 | 1/2500 sec | F1.8 | Nikon Z7 + Z 85mm F1.8


    September was a somewhat quiet month for sample galleries, yet Belvedere managed to sneak his charming face into two of them. These included the all around-excellent Tamron 35mm F1.4 gallery and the also-impressive Nikon 85mm F1.8 S gallery. We also shot with the iPhone 11, Sony 16-55mm F2.8 and Phase One IQ4.

    Now I’ll be honest, my dear humble readers, I truly struggled with which Belvedere photos to pick as the winner for this month (OK, I shot them all). My decision ultimately came down to which image had the most likes in our gallery (10). Either way, September was a very good-looking month for our dear staff pup.

    See our Nikon Z 85mm F1.8 S
    sample gallery

    October 2019 – Belvedere at 16 months

    ISO 1000 | 1/100 sec | F2.8 | Canon M200 + EF-M 32mm F1.4
    Photo: Carey Rose


    October saw the launch of the Olympus OM-D E-M5 III, the Fujifilm X-Pro3 and the Nikon Z50 – cameras we were able to shoot galleries for, prior to announcement. We also got our hands on Canon’s impressive RF 24-70mm F2.8L lens and shot our very first test samples on the Nikon Z 58mm S Noct (under very controlled settings). Additionally, we were thoroughly impressed with the real world output of the Google Pixel 4.

    But our favorite Belvedere sample of the month came from Carey Rose with the Canon EOS M200. I’m not sure if Carey set out to capture Belvedere working hard on the job, but he sure did. Warming laps takes a lot of practice and dedication!

    See our Canon EOS M200 sample gallery

    November 2019 – Belvedere at 17 months

    ISO 100 | 1/800 sec | F2.8 | Leica SL2 + Sigma 45mm F2.8


    We had the chance to shoot with some really nice telephoto glass in November, including with the Fujifilm XF 200mm F2 as well as the jaw-dropping Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8L. We also took Sony’s 70-350 F4.5-6.3 for a spin and explored around the city with the super-compact Sigma fp full-framer.

    But it was the beastly Leica SL2 behind November’s top Belvedere pic. And if you zoom into 100% you can even seem some dreamy bokeh from the Sigma 45mm F2.8 on my dear dog’s nose.

    See our Leica SL2 sample gallery

    December 2019 – Belvedere at 18… no wait, 6 months

    ISO 1000 | 1/200 sec | F1.4 | Sony a6500 + Sigma 56mm F1.4
    Photo: Carey Rose


    December has been a busy (and dark month) and it’s not over yet! As such, we’ve only published a handful of galleries so far. These include our Panasonic S Pro 24-70 F2.8 gallery, our Canon RF 15-35mm F2.8L gallery and our full-production Nikon Z50 gallery. But sadly, none of those galleries contain images of our fuzzy pal (what fools we are!).

    But not to worry! DPR’s Richard Butler reminded me of a classic Belvedere photo shot by our very own Carey Rose with the delightful Sigma 56mm F1.4, this time last December (no, Belvedere isn’t Benjamin Button).

    See our Sigma 56mm F1.4 sample gallery

    12 days of Belvedere – The wrap

    ISO 64 | 1/320 sec | F1.4 | Nikon Z7 + Tamron 35mm F1.4


    And that’s a wrap on the year. There you have it, 12 months of Belvedere in 12 days. Thank you kind reader, for following along on this fun and important journey through puppyhood and gear reminiscing. Hopefully you’ve enjoyed each slide, one at a time and didn’t jump ahead. But even if you did, Belvedere forgives you. He’s just that kind of dog.

    Until next year. Woof!

    See our Tamron 35mm F1.4 sample gallery

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • DPReview TV: The best and worst cameras and lenses of 2019

    Our 2020 ‘Best and Worst’ episode is here! Will Jordan’s art house movie trivia drive Chris to madness? Can you make martinis with pickled tomatoes? Find out what gear the boys from Calgary liked most – and least – this year, and learn a few things you didn’t know you wanted to know.

    If you disagree with their selections, tell us in the comments! If you make your own pickled tomato martinis, let us know how that works out.

    Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

    • Introduction
    • The game
    • The drink
    • Best lenses
    • Most improved camera
    • Best hybrid camera
    • Best camera
    • Worst lens
    • Worst camera
    • Thanks for a great 2019!

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • A Simple Technique to Put the Pizzazz Back Into Your Photos

    The post A Simple Technique to Put the Pizzazz Back Into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

    Kent DuFault’s Complete Guide to Long Exposure Photography

    Day 3 of dPS Holiday Deals comes courtesy of our good friends at Photzy, who can always be counted on for fantastic quality photography training.  Today you can pick up Kent DuFault’s Complete Guide to Long Exposure Photography from Photzy + 2 bonuses worth $ 60 for just $ 17 USD.

    Save 71% Now

    Do you yearn to rediscover the excitement and joy that filled your creative soul when you first picked up your shiny new DSLR? 

    Today, you are going to take a major step in your photography – mastering long exposure.

    Imagine showing your friends and family your own, gorgeous long exposure shots. And imagine other photographers online, seeing your shots and jealously asking you: “How did you do that?” That’s where you’ll be after reading this guide!

    “The Complete Guide to Long Exposure Photography” is your exclusive guide to creating magical long exposure shots, from best-selling photography teacher, Kent DuFault. There is no other training out there that will turn you into an amazing Long Exposure Photographer with greater speed and accuracy!

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    Best wishes,

    Darren and the team at dPS

    PS – You can still grab yesterday’s amazing two course Composition and Light combo deal from Photography Concentrate – save 75%. Buy here.


    We receive an affiliate commission when you purchase from our trusted partners.

    The post A Simple Technique to Put the Pizzazz Back Into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


    Digital Photography School

  • Nikon Z50 Mirrorless Camera Review

    The post Nikon Z50 Mirrorless Camera Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

    This week, I thought I’d share some reviews of the Nikon Z50 APS-C mirrorless camera.

    This is Nikon’s first APS-C mirrorless camera, and it looks to have some interesting features. The good news about this camera is it is a Z-mount camera, meaning lenses for the Z6 and Z7 cameras will also fit this lens. Moreover, with one adapter, all the Nikon autofocus lenses will work with this camera too.

    When launching the Nikon Z50, Nikon also launched two DX zoom lenses: DX 16-50mm f3.5 and the DX 50-250mm f4.5/6.3.

    Check out this review by Jared Polin.

    ?

    And this review from Ken Rockwell:

    Also, this review from DP Review:

    ?

    You may also find the following helpful:

    • Video: Canon RF vs EF Lenses on the Canon Mirrorless System
    • Review: Sony A7R IV Mirrorless Camera
    • Nikon to Produce Mirrorless Crop-Sensor Camera and Two Z Lenses
    • Canon and Sony Announce New DSLRs and Mirrorless Cameras
    • Review of the Nikon Z6 Mirrorless Camera
    • Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You?
    • Gear Review: Canon EOS M50 Mirrorless Camera Kit

     

    The post Nikon Z50 Mirrorless Camera Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


    Digital Photography School

  • Adobe announces record Q4 with annual revenue of $11 billion in 2019

    Adobe has announced its fiscal fourth quarter and fiscal 2019 financial results, revealing that they set new quarterly and annual revenue records for the company.

    During its fourth quarter, which ended on November 29, Adobe saw quarterly revenue of $ 2.99 billion, a 21% year-over-year increase. With that quarter finalized, Adobe has revealed record annual revenue totaling $ 11.17 billion, a 24% year-over-year increase over its fiscal year 2018.

    Adobe President and CEO Shantanu Narayen called the performance ‘phenomenal,’ citing both loyal customers and product innovation as among the reasons for its success.

    The company reports growth across multiple business segments, including a 22% year-over-year Digital Media segment quarterly revenue increase to $ 2.08 billion. Adobe’s Creative and Document Cloud segments also grew during Q4 with revenues of $ 1.74 billion and $ 339 million, respectively.

    Adobe expects its performance to continue trending upward through its first fiscal quarter of the new year. In Q1 2020, the company is aiming for around $ 3.04 billion in quarterly revenue with continued growth in its Digital Media and Digital Experience segments.

    Looking outward at the full fiscal year 2020, Adobe is targeting annual revenue of around $ 13.15 billion with significant growth in its Digital Media and Digital Experience segments, as well as growth in its Digital Experience subscription revenue and bookings.

    Via: Adobe

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Which Sony RX100 is right for you?

    Introduction

    There have now been eight variants of the RX100 series, with at least seven of them still considered to be ‘current’ models. This variety of choice and the similarity of the names can make them difficult to tell apart, or choose between, so we’re going to look at the differences.

    If you’re not fussed with the details and just want to know which model is best for what, feel free to skip to the conclusion: Click here on desktop, or tap here on mobile.

    Lenses

    The biggest differences are the lenses: the first two versions were built around a 28-100mm equivalent lens with a bright maximum aperture at the wide end but one that’s much slower at the telephoto end.

    The Mark III saw a move to a wider, shorter and much brighter lens: a 24-70mm equivalent zoom with F1.8-2.8 maximum aperture, bringing significant benefits in low light and allowing shallower depth-of-field than before.

    Most recently, the Mark VI and Mark VII moved to slower but much more flexible 24-200mm equivalent zooms. This puts the RX100 into travel zoom territory.

    Beyond this, we’ve tried to summarize the development of the series in terms of spec:

    Price (MSRP) Lens Video AF Screen Viewfinder
    RX100 $ 400 28-100mm
    F1.8-4.9
    1080p60
    Line-skipping
    Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ fixed None
    RX100 II $ 600 28-100mm
    F1.8-4.9
    1080p60
    Line-skipping
    Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting Optional 2.36M-dot
    RX100 III $ 750 24-70mm
    F1.8-2.8
    1080p60 Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting 1.44M-dot pop-up
    RX100 IV $ 900 24-70mm
    F1.8-2.8
    4Kp30

    Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting 2.36M-dot pop-up
    RX100 V $ 850 24-70mm
    F1.8-2.8
    4Kp30

    Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
    RX100 VI $ 1000 24-200mm
    F2.8-4.5
    4Kp30

    Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting touch-enabled 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
    RX100 VII $ 1200 24-200mm
    F2.8-4.5
    4Kp30 Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting touch-enabled 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
    A more complete comparison of these specifications may be found here.

    Viewfinders

    The RX100 II added the option to attach an external viewfinder, while for the Mark III Sony found the space to squeeze a pop-up viewfinder into the body. The resolution of the finder was updated in the Mark IV and the refresh rate increased in the Mark V(A) and VI. The Mark VI also saw the finder mechanism redesigned, so that it can be deployed or stowed with a single button press.

    Video

    The RX100 IV gained a Stacked CMOS sensor with memory built into the chip. This allowed much faster readout, allowing 4K video and an electronic shutter mode, widening the range of lighting conditions in which the camera’s wide apertures can be used. The IV, V and VI can also shoot High Frame Rate video at up to 1000 fps, taken from increasingly low res crops of the sensor then blown up to 1080p.

    The small body of the camera limits its ability to dissipate heat. This sees 4K video capture limited to around 5 minutes. The cameras will also dull their rear screens to minimize heat build-up as they approach this limit, which can make outdoor video shooting difficult in warmer climes.

    Autofocus

    Of particular note is that the Mark VII inherits Sony’s ‘Real-time Tracking’ technology, which allows the camera to seamlessly transition from subject tracking to face-and-eye-detection on the fly, with very little input from the user. It’s powerful and simple, and is the first time on an RX100 that you don’t have to assign a separate button to initiate Eye AF. Here’s a video of it in action.

    Sony RX100

    Key specs:

    • 20MP 1″-type CMOS sensor
    • 28-100mm F1.8-4.9 zoom lens
    • 1080/60p video
    • 10fps burst shooting
    • CIPA rated to 330 shots per charge
    • 3″ fixed rear display
    • Slimmest RX100 of the line

    The original RX100 was the first camera to put a relatively large 1″-type sensor into a camera you could consider pocketable, and it started a revolution. Today, not only do you have five 1″-sensor models from Sony, but you have multiple competitors from the likes of Canon and Panasonic, too (and, hopefully, Nikon at some point).

    At the time of this writing, the RX100 can be had brand-new for $ 370, making it the cheapest 1″-sensor compact out there (the Canon G9 X Mark II is slightly more expensive still, but with a different feature set and even slimmer size). That makes it a great option for budget-conscious folks that still want to have a camera with them all the time. This model produces a bit softer and noisier JPEGs than the others, albeit not by much (image quality is largely determined by sensor size, common across all models). AF can be challenged in low light, particularly with low-contrast subjects like facial features, and the screen doesn’t tilt like it does with all subsequent RX100s, and there’s not even an option to add a viewfinder. But hey – that’s why it’s the cheapest.

    The original RX100 is still available and is now comparatively inexpensive. However, once you’ve experienced things such as the better lenses, improved responsiveness, viewfinders, up-rated video and more attractive color rendering of the newer models, it’s hard to go back. We’d tend to recommend saving up a little bit more for at least the Mark III, since that way you get the full IQ advantage of that big sensor at more than just the wide-angle setting.

    Sony RX100 II

    Key updates:

    • New Bionz X image processor
    • Multi-function hot shoe for a flash or electronic viewfinder
    • 3″ tilting display (90 degrees up, 40 degrees down)
    • Wi-Fi built-in

    The multi-function hot shoe, which could work with either an electronic viewfinder or external flashes, was only seen on the RX100 II.

    For an extra $ 180, you can get the second RX100, which added an impressive number of new features without appreciably increasing exterior dimensions.

    The RX100 II has the highest-rated battery life of all the models in the range (CIPA rated at 350 shots), so if you want to avoid carrying extra batteries around, this is likely the best bet. There’s a modest improvement in image quality, with more detail in low light JPEGs and less noise at the highest ISOs in Raw thanks to the BSI sensor. The RX100 II also has a multi-function hot shoe, which can be used for an external flash unit, or Sony’s grotesquely expensive FDA-EV1MK electronic viewfinder (at least it’s high quality – which it should be, for $ 450 MSRP). The LCD can tilt, and its at this point where Wi-Fi with NFC was introduced to the lineup. The Mark II was the last RX100 to have the 28-100mm zoom lens, so if you value the reach of this model over the speed or cost of later iterations, this is your best bet (or, of course, you can check out other manufacturers’ offerings).

    If you can swing the extra cost and size – the Mark I is appreciably slimmer and lacks the hotshoe hump – the RX100 II offers quite a bit over the original model, with Wi-Fi in particular being a valuable addition. But it’s not as massive a leap as comes later in the series. If you can’t live without a viewfinder, it’s best to skip this model and go for the next one, which has a viewfinder built-in – but with some other changes that you may want to consider.

    Sony RX100 III

    Key updates:

    • New 24-70mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 zoom lens with built-in ND filter
    • Pop-up 1.44M-dot EVF
    • New Bionz X image processor
    • Full-sensor readout 1080/60p video with higher bitrate
    • 3″ screen now tilts 180 degrees for selfies
    • Battery life drops to 320 shots
    • Hot shoe eliminated
    • Improved customizable Function menu
    • Greatly improved JPEG engine

    Sony’s innovative pop-up electronic viewfinder has found its way into a few other models, and we’re big fans.

    The RX100 Mark III was a big jump for the series. As you can see at right, there’s a substantial list of changes (mostly improvements) that you get for an additional $ 100, with this model’s MSRP jumping to $ 650.

    The biggest changes from a usability standpoint are the addition of an industry-first pop-up electronic viewfinder, which will make sunny-day shooting much easier, and a much needed custom Fn menu for quick access to most features. The new 24-70mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 lens is a showstopper as well, providing excellent optical performance and faster speed compared to the previous lens, though it gives up quite a bit of zoom reach. Whether you value the extra speed over the extra reach is a profoundly personal decision, but we often felt just a bit limited with this newer, though brighter, design. Note, too, that this is the beginning of some significant battery life reductions that only continue on later models.

    Beyond that, there are some impressive leaps forward in image quality as well. Raw files are largely unchanged over the Mark II, but JPEGs throughout the ISO range are sharper (albeit with some haloing) and less noisy. Full-sensor readout for 1080/60p video results in much sharper footage with fewer artifacts.

    Sony RX100 IV

    Key updates:

    • New 20MP stacked BSI-CMOS sensor
    • 16fps continuous shooting
    • 4K/30p video with Log gamma
    • Up to 1000/960fps high-speed video
    • Up to 1/32000 sec exposures with electronic shutter
    • Pop-up 2.36M-dot EVF
    • Improved Auto ISO control
    • Eye AF-C and faster, more accurate AF performance
    • Battery life drops to 280 shots

    The RX100 IV is shown here sandwiched between the III and V, which are virtually identical in terms of body and design elements.

    The fourth iteration of the RX100 series brings the MSRP an additional $ 150 higher, to $ 800 (though it launched at $ 999). After three iterations of (albeit, slowly) evolving physical design, Sony has changed literally nothing about the outer design and handling with the IV.

    On the inside, though, you get a new sensor that’s ‘stacked,’ meaning it has memory chips built right onto the back of the sensor itself, giving it incredibly fast read-out speed and buffering capabilities. Almost all the improvements you see at right, including some significant improvements to autofocus speed and low light accuracy, come from this industry-leading sensor technology.

    Of course, with more power but the same battery, it’s no surprise that battery life dips to 280 shots, though you also get a significantly higher resolution electronic viewfinder, faster burst rates, and completely silent shooting. Usability improvements include instant 1:1 magnification of the AF point in playback, and best-practice Auto ISO control that allows you to more finely dial in how you want the camera to bias the ISO as related to shutter speed. Stills image quality isn’t drastically improved (though JPEGs are more intelligently sharpened), but 4K video and a host of video support tools like log gamma put it a significant step ahead of the Mark III if you’re looking for more of a hybrid shooting experience, as opposed to just stills.

    Continuing on, we see the addition of new features like continuous Eye-AF and high frame rate video, which really start to overwhelm the RX100’s controls and menu more than ever before. The RX100 IV clearly epitomizes Sony’s new priorities regarding the RX100-series, with vast technological improvements under the hood, but only limited improvements to usability.

    Sony RX100 V (A)

    Key updates:

    • New ‘Front-end LSI’ processor for more speed
    • 24fps burst shooting with full autofocus and auto exposure
    • 315-point on-sensor phase detection autofocus system
    • Oversampled 4K video with almost no rolling shutter
    • HFR clips can now be twice as long as before
    • Battery life drops to 220 shots
    • Further JPEG Engine Improvements

    The RX100 V brings a level of speed and AF performance never before seen in a compact camera.

    The RX100 V received a mid-life refresh in July 2018, bringing the processor and menus from the RX100 VI and losing the ability to run in-camera apps. This article focuses on this “RX100M5A” variant.*

    The V comes at a $ 100 premium over the previous model bringing us back to an MSRP of $ 1000, for which you get even more speed, even better 4K video, and a phase detection AF system that is the most advanced in its class.

    The RX100 V offers little image quality advantage over the RX100 IV, but 4K video, now oversampled from 5.5K, offers greater detail, though the significant reduction in rolling shutter in 4K is going to offer the biggest benefit to your footage.

    Whichever you choose, be aware of the existence of two versions of the RX100 V and make sure you’re getting the one you want.

    This is definitely a camera for speed freaks (not a criticism). 24 fps burst shooting with autofocus tracking and Eye AF is a first for the industry, helping you nail the decisive moment. The doubling in length of high frame rate video clips makes them eminently more usable. For many of us, though, there’s just more speed than we even knew what to do with.

    The update to V ‘A’ status brings better-organized menus and a custom ‘My Menu’ tab, which make it somewhat easier to cope with the camera’s extensive feature set. Sadly, the camera doesn’t gains the Mark VI’s touchscreen, so it remains an astonishingly able camera with a control system that works best when you point and shoot. It’s probably the world’s best point-and-shoot, but it’s hard not to look jealously at the more hands-on control systems on most of its rivals and imagine how easily it could be the world’s best enthusiast compact.

    Ultimately, though, there’s no other camera that offers such impressive AF, such good video and such good image quality in such a small package.

    *You may be able to find an original Mark V at a lower price for a while. This lacks the improved AF performance, updated menus and JPEG color of the Mark VI, but has the ability to install in-camera apps, such as the popular intervalometer app. Whichever you choose, be aware of the existence of two versions of the RX100 V and make sure you’re getting the one you want.

    RX100 VI

    Key updates:

    • 24-200mm equivalent zoom
    • F2.8-4.5 maximum aperture
    • Touchscreen control of AF point
    • SIngle-press EVF release/close
    • Bluetooth for location updates from smartphone
    • Battery life improves to 240 shots
    • Further JPEG Engine Improvements

    The RX100 VI sees the camera gain a longer but slower lens to become an excellent travel companion.

    The RX100 VI is the most radical camera in the series, arguably since its introduction. The adoption of a much longer lens significantly expands the types of photo you can take, making it an excellent travel camera. The trade-off is that the lens has become slower to keep the camera down to essentially the same size as the others in the series.

    As well as the lens, the Mark VI also gains a touchscreen for AF point positioning and control during playback. The viewfinder mechanism has also been revised so that it can now be deployed or stowed with a single click. Both of these are distinct ergonomic improvements and there are further strides forward in operability with the addition of Sony’s latest menu system. This brings a more comprehensible structure and a custom ‘My Menu’ tab, for gaining quick access to the features you want.

    Arguably the world’s best travel camera

    The camera’s underlying performance is superb. The autofocus is hugely impressive (though it begins to struggle as light levels fall), the 4K video is highly detailed and has virtually no rolling shutter and the JPEG color rendering is the best yet. We were also impressed with the lens quality, given its ambitious range and reasonably fast aperture range. We still feel the user interface doesn’t expect you to take too much control over the settings but this makes more sense if you’re traveling and want to capture the moment, rather than intentionally devoting time to photography.

    The costs of the new lens are twofold: its slower maximum aperture means it can’t capture as much light in low light situations, which means noisier images. These’s also no ND filter in the lens, which would let you use wider apertures for shallower depth-of-field or longer shutter speeds typically used for video, in bright light.

    Overall, then, the RX100 VI is arguably the world’s best travel camera. It’s expensive, for sure, but nothing else can match its combination of size, lens range, image quality, AF and movie capability.

    RX100 VII

    Key updates:

    • 24-200mm equiv. zoom with F2.8-4.5 maximum aperture
    • Real-time Tracking AF for seamless face-and-eye detect
    • Blackout-free bursts at 20fps
    • Microphone socket added
    • Battery life now up to 260 shots
    • Digital + lens-based stabilization for very smooth video

    The RX100 VII is a refinement of the previous model, with better autofocus, and blackout-free burst shooting, but at a slightly lower 20fps.

    The RX100 VII, the series’ latest model, is the most capable pocket camera ever made. While it inherits much of what made up the Mark VI, Sony’s found room to include some pretty dramatic improvements.

    The most significant of these is the inclusion of a new type of tracking autofocus, which transitions seamlessly from incredibly tenacious tracking of any subject, to face and eye detection on people, with little-to-no input from the user. It’s powerful, simple, effective, and simply the best autofocus implementation on the market today.

    The RX100 VII is the most capable pocket camera ever made

    An updated processor also improves 4K video capture, as the camera is now capable of combined digital and lens-based stabilization. This crops your video in slightly, so you don’t get quite as wide an angle as before, but the extra stability is welcome. A newly added microphone socket will make it easier to get better quality audio as well.

    And though burst shooting has actually slowed a bit, at 20fps instead of 24fps on the Mark VI, it now comes ‘blackout-free.’ This means you continue to see a fluid, live feed of your subject while shooting 20fps bursts. It makes following fast-moving subjects much easier.

    The same compromises the previous model made are present in this model as well, though, and these include a usefully long lens that is hampered a bit by a slower maximum aperture, and a lack of any built-in ND filter that would be handy for video. The menus are still dense, and there’s still some overall operational lag. On the plus side, battery life has increased a bit, but you’ll likely still want to carry a spare.

    What’s the right RX100 for you?

    Now, the important part. Which one is a fit for whom?

    With the release of the Mark VI and Mark VII, it almost becomes easier to make sense of the sprawling RX100 series. Now you can choose a camera with a long, slower lens or ones with a short, fast lens: there’s less sense in buying the short but increasingly slow lens models that started the lineup.

    RX100 and RX100 II

    With this in mind, we’d probably only recommend the original RX100 Mark I and II if your budget absolutely won’t stretch further. The latest versions have made so many improvements: in terms of JPEG quality, AF performance and video, and with the addition of useful features like the built-in viewfinders, Wi-Fi… The benefits of saving up for the faster lens of the Mark III, or rivals from Canon and Panasonic are, we reckon, worth it.

    RX100 III – For the budget stills shooter

    The Mark III would be our choice for an entry-level model RX100. It was the first in the series to gain the short, fast 24-70mm equivalent lens. Its F1.8-2.8 maximum aperture means you get the full advantage of that nice big sensor when you’re zoomed-in, rather than just at wide-angle. The Mark III has a lower-resolution viewfinder than newer models, and can’t shoot 4K video, but its image quality is pretty much a match for them, especially if you shoot Raw. Since this camera came out, though, Canon has introduced the PowerShot G5 X Mark II, which houses a similar sensor, more versatile lens and a similar pop-up electronic viewfinder in a body that handles better and has a friendlier interface. It’s also around $ 150 more expensive at the time of this writing, but we feel its worth the extra cash, overall.

    RX100 IV – Stuck in the middle?

    The RX100 IV falls into a similar trap to the first two models: once you’ve seen what can be done with newer technology, the more limited version might not make sense. It gains 4K video and a higher-res viewfinder over the Mark III but, although you’re paying for a more advanced Stacked CMOS sensor, the IV doesn’t have the phase detection autofocus or processing power to make the most of it. We’d either suggest saving up for the Mark V or looking closely at the Mk III, Canon’s G5X II or Panasonic’s LX10.

    RX100 VI – For the world traveler

    The RX100 VI, with its travel-zoom-territory 24-200mm equivalent lens, is a great choice for travel photography. Its maximum aperture of F2.8-4.5 means it’s pretty flexible, though it could be limiting for dim interiors and nighttime shooting. While its autofocus system isn’t quite as capable as the newer Mark VII, it’s perfectly fine for general use. Its 4K video capture is solid (the lack of an ND filter could be problematic though), and the Wi-Fi system means it’s easy to get images onto your phone and off onto the web. In the end, we’d recommend getting the Mark VI and saving a few bucks over the very latest model if you don’t need the absolute best autofocus performance or the most stable 4K video capture.

    RX100 V (A), and RX100 VII – Ultimate capability, but for different things

    The updated ‘A’ version of the already impressive RX100 V looks extremely promising. Its quiet introduction sees the camera creep back up to its launch-date MSRP but the benefits of the improved menus and better JPEG color add to what is already a highly capable camera. Updated AF algorithms should further improve things. We still don’t think it’s as engaging to use as some of its rivals but none of them can match the speed, AF performance or 4K quality of the Sony.

    At which point you have to choose between the low-light capability of the RX100 V (A) or the greater flexibility of the RX100 VII’s longer lens. The V has a built-in ND filter, which will be useful for video shooters, while the VII has a touchscreen and quicker-to-use EVF mechanism. But it’s the lenses that should decide it for you.

    It all comes down to what kind of photography you expect to do

    The RX100 V and VII are both fast-shooting compacts that produce great photographs. They each have excellent autofocus and 4K video, though the VII has the edge in both cases thanks to its improved processing power. If you’ve decided the combination of price, performance, image quality and size is the one you want, it all comes down to what kind of photography you expect to do: the bright 24-70mm equiv zoom of the Mark V will shoot at any time, if those focal lengths work for your subject, whereas the 24-200mm equiv of the VII will shoot just about any subject, so long as there’s enough light. Which matters more to you?

    Still can’t decide? Our Buying Guides are designed to help you find the perfect camera.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Shadows in Photography – How Seeing the Shadows Helps You Understand the Light

    The post Shadows in Photography – How Seeing the Shadows Helps You Understand the Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    shadows-in-Photography

    There are many great quotes about the relationship and importance of light to photography.  You’ve read how the very word photography is rooted in the Greek terms meaning “writing with light.”  You likely have heard of groups of photographers like Canon’s “Explorers of Light.”  Yet while we focus attention on the component of light, we sometimes fail to recognize the importance of areas without light, the shadows in a photograph.  As there can be no yin without yang, photography also must “embrace the Tao”, the duality of both light and shadows in photography.

    Let’s explore the relationship in this article on shadows in photography.

    shadows-in-Photography

    The left side is Yin, the right is Yang. As with photography, the shadow has a spot of light within it, the light a spot of shadow. Good photographers understand the “Tao,” the dual nature of light and shadow and use both to enhance their work.

    Image: Yin and Yang in the rocks as light falls across the land.

    Yin and Yang in the rocks as light falls across the land.

    shadows-in-Photography

    More Yin and Yang as light and shadow play across the Bruneau Dunes in Idaho.

    You find what you seek

    Beginning photography students are taught to see and seek the light.  Sometimes they fail to realize that to better see the effects of light, it can sometimes be easier to look at the shadows.

    We use terms like hard and soft to describe the quality of light when what we are really describing is the line between light and shadow.  A sharp delineation between light and shadow, that’s what we call hard light.  A very gradual transition between the two and that’s soft light.  We need to look at both light and shadow to fully understand.

    As with many things, you will begin to see…really see…what is there once you start to look for it.  Taking your camera out with the express intention of capturing shadows in photography is a great way to seek and see the light.

    Image: Sometimes the photo comes to you. When the morning light came through the Venetian blinds, an...

    Sometimes the photo comes to you. When the morning light came through the Venetian blinds, and I saw this, I went for my camera.

    Shadow seasons and times

    It’s late November as I write this, and at my latitude – about 43-degrees north – we’re getting into winter. The days are growing shorter, and the shadows are growing longer. With the winter solstice approaching on December 21, the sun will be the lowest in the sky for us in the northern hemisphere. For my friends down under in the southern hemisphere, that same day will be the longest and the middle of summer.

    Of course, the time of day plays a big part in that too, regardless of the time of year. One reason photographers favor early morning and late afternoon/evening is not just for the golden hour, but for the low light angle and more dramatic shadows.

    Yes, you will find shadows at any time of the day, but their size and characteristics will vary with time of day and time of year.

    Image: When the days grow short, the shadows grow long.

    When the days grow short, the shadows grow long.

    Then there’s artificial light. You can’t control the sun, but you can control artificial light sources. You can control their intensity, color, and direction, and with the use of modifiers, the quality of shadows.

    With regard to shadows, remember that the hardness/softness of shadows is a factor of the size of the light source relative to the size of the subject.

    A softbox makes for soft shadows because it increases the size of the light source relative to the size of the subject. You will also get softer shadows when you move the light closer to the subject (which also increases its relative size).

    You can learn more about the qualities of light in my previous article, “How to Understand Light and Color to Improve your Photography.”

    shadows-in-Photography

    All photos contain both light and shadow. Seeing it, and learning to best use it, is the key.

    Image: Can you study this photo and figure out, by looking at the shadows, how the light was used?

    Can you study this photo and figure out, by looking at the shadows, how the light was used?

    The shadow shows

    Looking at a photo, studying the shadows can tell you about:

    Direction

    Look at a photo and study where the shadows are falling.  The light source will be exactly opposite from the directions the shadows fall or from the darkest side of the subject.

    Image: The subtle gradation of light and shadow gives shape and form to these apples.

    The subtle gradation of light and shadow gives shape and form to these apples.

    Shape and form

    The way light and shadows fall, give us clues as to the shape of a subject. Photography is a 2D medium we use to capture a 3D world, and light and shadow help add depth, dimension, and form to subjects.

    Photograph an egg with the light source directly coming from the same direction the camera is pointing, and you will see a two-dimensional oval with little clue as to the depth of the egg.

    Now move the light to a 45-degree angle, and the shadow will begin to give evidence to the true shape of the egg.

    Move the light 90-degrees to the camera direction, and your perception changes again.

    Whatever the subject, the direction of the light, and the areas in shadow are our clues to interpreting our subject.

    Image: Low cross-lighting brings out the texture of these subjects with harsh light and shadow grada...

    Low cross-lighting brings out the texture of these subjects with harsh light and shadow gradation.

    Texture

    Often we want to control how textured a subject looks in our photo. For some subjects, we may wish to emphasize the texture as much as possible. Hard light raking the subject from the side, behind, above, or below the subject will increase apparent texture by creating both lit and shadow areas.

    Sometimes we want minimal texture, perhaps when making portraits. Large light sources like softboxes or nature’s lightbox, the sky on an overcast day, will soften shadows and minimize texture.

    Image: Want drama? Find a way to use the light and shadow creatively in your photo.

    Want drama? Find a way to use the light and shadow creatively in your photo.

    Mood and drama

    What is in light and shadow, what is bright and dark, how and where the shadows fall – all of these work together to communicate the mood of an image.

    This is another example of learning to see how both light and shadow work together.

    Image: Note how non-traditional side lighting adds drama to these portraits.

    Note how non-traditional side lighting adds drama to these portraits.

    We can also use light and shadow as we make portraits.

    Standard three-point studio lighting can make for a pleasing portrait. Still, when we want to emphasize shape, form, texture, or create an edgier, moodier portrait, we will want to look at more dramatic light and, in particular, how light and shadow interplay.

    Image: Photographers travel the world to photograph the Palouse country in eastern Washington State....

    Photographers travel the world to photograph the Palouse country in eastern Washington State. The play of light and shadow on the rolling hills is the main attraction.

    shadows-in-Photography

    Same shot, one color, one monochrome. Note how the simpler mono image is more about the lines, shapes, and tones.

    Color vs monochrome

    If you have worked much with monochrome photography, you may know that one reason for choosing it over color photography is that without the added distraction of color in the image, a monochrome image can be more about the lines, texture, and tones in the photograph.

    When doing shadow photography, you may also be looking for an emphasis on those same things. So, if you are unaccustomed to making monochrome images, you may wish to give it a try when doing shadow photography as the two techniques often complement one another.

    Image: The shadows are as much the subject as the other objects in these photos.

    The shadows are as much the subject as the other objects in these photos.

    The shadow as the subject

    All photographs will have areas of light and shadow.

    A good photographer will pay attention to how both work together to enhance their image.  Sometimes, however, instead of simply having shadows be a component in your photo, you may want to try making shadows THE subject – the main focus of your image.

    I said that you find what you seek, and going out with the specific mission of capturing shadows in photography is a great way to learn to see shadows better and understand light.

    Let’s look at some examples of shadows in photography.

    Image: In the image on the left, the shadows enhance the subjects. In the photo on the right, the sh...

    In the image on the left, the shadows enhance the subjects. In the photo on the right, the shadows ARE the subject.

    shadows-in-Photography

    Go out with the intent of taking shadows in photography and you’ll find some interesting compositions.

    shadows-in-Photography

    Early morning or late afternoon when the light is low is a great time to go “shadow hunting.”

    shadows-in-Photography

    “A Little Fork Music.” Shadows can surprise you. See the hand strumming a guitar?

    Seek and see shadows in photography

    So now it’s all yours… get out there with your camera and go on a shadow hunt.  You’ve always heard that photographers should seek the light.  “Mr. Kodak,” George Eastman obviously knew a thing or two about photography and he said –

    Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.  – George Eastman

    I heartily endorse his advice.  However, I would also suggest that while you learn about the “Yang,” the light, you do not overlook the “Yin,” the shadows.  They are immutably entwined, two sides of the same coin, both to be, to use Eastman’s words, embraced, admired, loved, and known.

    To practice capturing shadows in photography will help you become a better photographer.  When you see the shadows, you will also see the light.

    Do you have any other tips for capturing shadows in photography or shadow photography images you’d like to share with us? If so, share them with us in the comments!

     

    The post Shadows in Photography – How Seeing the Shadows Helps You Understand the Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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