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Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

20 Jan

The post Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

kf-concept-carbon-tripods

Recently, I was given 2 new K&F Concept Carbon tripods to test out.

Founded in 2011, K&F Concept is not a new player in the photographic industry, but they have wasted no time forging a name for themselves into a very niche market. Like most things coming out of China, their products are well designed, innovative and offer great value, so I was excited to get my hands on these tripods.

 

The TC2834L Explorer Series carbon tripod

First up is the K&F Concept TC2834L Explorer Series carbon tripod with a CL40 ball head.

At a glance:

  • Material: Carbon Fiber
  • Net Weight: 1440g
  • Max Height: 1500mm
  • Height without Central Axis: 1235mm
  • Min Height: 430mm
  • Max load: 15kg
  • Price: $ 299.99 (at the time of writing)

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

First thoughts

The tripod comes in a really nice carry bag with all the necessary Allen keys to maintain it. There are also a set of three screw spikes in the accessory bag that I wasn’t expecting.

My first thoughts were correct, and these were to replace the rubber grips on each leg for those times when you need a little more traction. Simply screw off the rubber pads and screw in the spikes. It’s super easy and a very nice addition that you won’t get with many other tripods.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Locking system

K&F Concept has used twist-leg locks to reduce weight and folded size rather than the more traditional lever lock. Aside from the weight and size, the other advantage of the twist legs is their slick design. I have always found that levers tend to snag on the straps of my camera bag when trying to remove the tripod. Whilst, not a huge inconvenience, it generally results in me having a little wrestle with my camera bag.

With the twist-lock, you eliminate this issue.

The primary leg join is a very unique and innovative design that allows the photographer to get the camera as close to the ground as possible. You simply pull the red leaver out and tilt the legs up to one of the other two notches before pushing it back in to securely lock the legs in place.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Tripod size

The tripod is made up of four carbon fiber sections to keep the weight to a minimum and keep it to a compact height.

One of the most notable aspects of the TC2834L is the lack of center column attached to the tripod. Instead, this comes as a separate section that needs to be screwed onto the tripod when needed. Whilst this achieves its goal of a more compact size tripod, it does mean an extra piece to carry as the column doesn’t attach to the tripod (something that would have been nice to be able to do).

However, I haven’t found this to be a huge problem as the standard height of the tripod is 1235mm, which is more than an adequate hight. Plus, generally having a center column raised on a tripod, is not a great idea as it can mean camera shake through any sort of movement.

I never use this, so actually not having the center column means less weight to carry.

After feeling how light the tripod is, I was a little concerned that it may struggle to support a camera and a 70-200mm lens in anything less than perfect conditions.

Thankfully, I was proved wrong. It proved to be very steady and held up as well as any other travel tripod I have used even in blustery conditions.

The tripod is made up of four carbon fiber sections to keep the weight to a minimum and keep it to a compact height.

One of the most notable aspects of the TC2834L is the lack of center column attached to the tripod. Instead, this comes as a separate section that needs to be screwed onto the tripod when needed. Whilst this achieves its goal of a more compact size tripod, it does mean an extra piece to carry as the column doesn’t attach to the tripod (something that would have been nice to be able to do).

However, I haven’t found this to be a huge problem as the standard height of the tripod is 1235mm, which is more than an adequate hight. Plus, generally having a center column raised on a tripod, is not a great idea as it can mean camera shake through any sort of movement.

I never use this, so actually not having the center column means less weight to carry.

After feeling how light the tripod is, I was a little concerned that it may struggle to support a camera and a 70-200mm lens in anything less than perfect conditions.

Thankfully, I was proved wrong. It proved to be very steady and held up as well as any other travel tripod I have used even in blustery conditions.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Ball head

Sold separately to the tripod, the KF-LC40 ball head may just be the best ball head I have ever used! Beautifully designed for ease of use, the ball head has a slick feel.

It uses the Arca Swiss locking system, which is great as this has now become the universally preferred locking method. This means all your old accessories and L-brackets will work seamlessly with this ball head.

The cleverly designed locking lever is placed a little behind the nodal point, making it much easier to adjust when a camera is attached. It does make the ball head a little bigger, but it’s not an issue, and it allows extra space for more substantial support in the ball head.

However, it’s important to remember that the ball head is sold separately.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Verdict

This is a fantastic sturdy, lightweight, pro-level compact tripod that is a joy to use and even easier to carry.

With a price of just $ 299.99 (remember, ball head sold separately) and 30 days, no-questions-asked return policy, there isn’t much to not love about this tripod.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Lightweight Travel Tripod

Next up is the TC2634 (Blue) carbon fiber lightweight travel tripod;

At a glance:

  • Material: Carbon Fiber
  • Net Weight: 3.7 pounds
  • Max Height: 1500mm
  • Min Height: 430mm
  • Max load: 15kg
  • Price: $ 182.28

First thoughts

Like its bigger brother, this tripod also comes in a nice bag with all the same accessories. However, no spikes this time.

It’s amazingly lightweight and compact but still incredibly sturdy. This all makes this tripod perfect for a travel photographer.

You could easily carry this tripod around with you all day without any problem. This is a huge benefit for someone like me who leaves the hotel very early in the morning and ends up having to carry their tripod all day.

This tripod also has a great little trick up its sleeve. One of the legs detaches to become a stand-alone monopod. Just unscrew the ball head and attach the newly removed leg, and you are ready to shoot.

Monopods are great for busy cities and festivals, so it’s nice to have one as easily accessible as this is.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Locking system

Like the TC2834L, the TC2634 uses a twist leg lock, which is great for all the reasons mentioned above. But what this tripod does differently is its 180-degree locking system that makes the tripod even smaller when packed away. It is a little fiddly to get the ball head in the correct spot to make sure all the legs lock closed to be as compact as possible, but you get used to the method after a few uses. This makes the folded up tripod just 430 mm in height!

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Tripod size

Given the compact size of this tripod, you could be mistaken for thinking it is going to be pretty small and not sturdy. This is certainly not the case. Whilst it is not as sturdy as the larger TC2834L, it held up fantastically well in all conditions except a fairly fast flowing river where there was some noticeable shake.

However, I expected that, as this tripod is not designed for that purpose. You can’t have super compact and lightweight without some sacrifices. To help avoid any shake issues, the center column has a hook that can be weighted down to add extra stability.

With the 180-degree leg locking system, it means you can get your camera as low to the floor as you wish. The camera will be upside down, but that’s nothing a rotate tool won’t fix in post-production.

k&f-concept-carbon-tripods

Ball head

This is a very sturdy and well-designed Arca Swiss 360-degree ball head. It’s a little smaller than I would normally like, but this doesn’t affect performance in any way. Unlike the previous tripod, the ball head is included with this tripod, making this an even more attractive option.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Verdict

This tripod is quite a lot smaller than what I normally work with, so I was a little skeptical beforehand. But it turned out to be great, and I really enjoy using it. So much so that I will be adding it to my own photography kit.

It’s a great option for a city break and offers more than enough support for the DSLR or mirrorless systems.

Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test

Overall

I have had my existing tripod for almost 15 years, and I never thought that I would replace it with anything other than just a newer model when it was time.

But having tested these tripods, I must confess that I am now using them instead of my existing tripod.

Note: The author was given these tripods and ball heads free of charge to test and was offered no incentives. This review is an unbiased opinion of his experience in using the products provided.

The post Review: 2 K&F Concept Carbon Tripods Put to the Test appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.


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The Canadian Internet Registration Authority has created a free and funny stock photo library

20 Jan
A lumberjack checking out a hockey player is a Canadian take on the ‘distracted boyfriend’ meme. Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA.

The Canadian Internet Registration Authority (CIRA), the organization in charge of Canada’s ‘.ca’ top-level domain, has published a series of stock photos that poke fun at Canadien stereotypes. In a bid to get more people to add something ‘uniquely Canadian’ to their projects, they’re offering up their library of stock images for free.

Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA

Anyone can use small, medium, large or extra-large sized images from the library, though they ask for an email address to access the extra-large 4K files. All CIRA asks, in return, is that a credit along the lines of ‘photo by CIRA/.CA,’ along with a link back to their website, is included.

Photo courtesy of CIRA/.CA. Also, no, this is not long-lost relative of Jordan—so far as we’re aware.

CIRA has their own version of the popular ‘distracted boyfriend’ meme, featuring a hockey player, and other distinct nods to Canadian culture including a moose interacting with backpackers and a lumberjack taking a swig of maple syrup. Anyone with the desire to add to this collection of images is encouraged to contact CIRA.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Nikon D750 vs D780: Should you upgrade?

19 Jan

The Nikon D750 vs D780: Should you upgrade?

The Nikon D750 was one of the best enthusiast-and-up DSLRs on the market at the time it was announced and is still a popular workhorse for many photographers today. Its 24MP sensor is still very competitive but its video specs in particular are looking very outdated.

If I were a D750 shooter today, ‘should I upgrade?’ would be a question on my mind. Our own Dan Bracaglia had some thoughts of his own on this, but let’s take a slightly deeper dive into just what Nikon’s updated, and whether those updates are worth it.

Autofocus

Probably the first thing most D750 owners will start to notice if they move across to the D780 is the improved autofocus. The D750 is certainly a capable camera in this regard but the D780 gains a couple of updates that should boost its performance.

In conventional DSLR mode, the D780 uses the same 51-point AF module as its predecessor but the AF system is informed by information from a 180,000 pixel metering sensor, rather than the 91,000 pixel sensor in the D750. This, combined with algorithms derived from those of the D5 professional sports camera, should significantly improve the D780’s AF performance, particularly in terms of subject tracking.

Even more significant will be the autofocus improvements in live view mode, which we’ll come to in a bit.

Newer sensor and JPEG engine

Although both cameras have sensors that come with 24MP, the unit in the D780 is a newer design, either identical or closely related to the one in Nikon’s existing Z6 mirrorless camera. This means it has a BSI (backside-illuminated) design and, more significantly, dual-gain architecture. In essence, this allows the camera to have maximum dynamic range at base ISO with improved noise characteristics at higher ISO values where absolute DR isn’t as crucial a consideration.

We would expect the D780 to produce better JPEGs compared to the D750

We’d expect the D780 to offer a slight upgrade over the D750 for Raw shooters, but one that’s only really visible in comparison and that won’t come close to justifying upgrading.

On the other hand, Nikon’s JPEG engine has improved by leaps and bounds over the past five years. We’ll have to do some more testing to be sure, but we’d expect the D780 to produce JPEGs with better sharpening, more pleasing color and more sophisticated noise reduction compared to those from the D750. And that also makes those JPEGs that much better for sharing over the updated Snapbridge wireless system that the D780 supports.

But that 24MP sensor isn’t all about BSI and dual-gain architecture. It also comes with…

On-sensor phase detection

The D780 has on-sensor phase detection, which provides the kind of distance information needed to quickly drive DSLR lenses. It also gains the AF tracking system from the Z-series cameras, including Face and Eye detection modes. The Face and Eye detection will be a distinct improvement for portraits and people pictures, compared with the D750.

The D780’s live view interface is directly borrowed from the Z-series cameras. This means it works slightly differently that the through-the-viewfinder system: AF tracking needs to be actively cancelled, and always resets to the central position, rather than a pre-selected one, and the Face / Eye detection modes feels like it’s been glued on top of the interface rather than designed to be part of it.

But if you’ve only shot with a DSLR before, you’re likely to be immediately impressed by how well the live view AF performs. Particularly for taking pictures of people, it can be fast, simple and dependable, in a way that even Nikon’s 3D Tracking system isn’t.

Video

Along with live view autofocus, one of the clearest enhancements on the D780 is its video performance. This is immediately apparent from the fact it can shoot up to 4K/30p or 1080/120p, rather than the 1080/60p of the D750, but it runs a lot deeper than that.

For a start, the vastly improved AF and tracking of its live view mode extend to its video shooting, meaning the autofocus is faster, smoother and more reliable (the difference between being usable and unusable, basically). In addition, the D780 gains Nikon’s latest approach to video settings, which lets you configure different settings, including different button customization, if you wish. You can have the video mode mimic your stills settings if you like, but you can also set it to use a different color mode, or white balance setting if you prefer, meaning it’s easy to jump back and forth between stills and video shooting.

Overall, the D780 is a very capable video camera. It’ll even output 10-bit Log footage to an external recorder, if you’re taking things really seriously. Panasonic’s S1 and S1H are some of the only full-frame cameras to offer significantly better video specs. That’s a huge step forward from the D750.

What’s similar?

Many of the rest of the D780’s specs are broadly similar: it’ll shoot at 7fps rather than the D750’s 6.5fps, but that’s unlikely to make much of a difference. Switch to live view and electronic shutter mode and the D780 will deliver 8fps or 12fps if you’re willing to take the slight dynamic range penalty of dropping to 12-bit mode. However, electronic shutter risks movement being distorted by the rolling shutter and increases the range of situations in which you’ll see banding from the flicker of artificial lights, so it’s not useful for all applications.

The optical viewfinders are the same, too: pentamirror finders with 100% coverage and 0.7x magnification.

Also, the D780 still has an in-body (screw drive) focus motor and AI tab, to allow its use with a broad range of older F-mount lenses. The D750 had both features, but notably the FTZ mount adapter for the Z-mount cameras doesn’t.

What’s different

The D780’s rear screen still tilts up and down on a rugged-feeling cradle like the D750’s did, but the dot-count has doubled and it’s now touch-sensitive, making the camera much more usable in live view mode.

The other big difference is that the D780 uses Nikon’s Snapbridge communications system, rather than the more conventional Wi-Fi system on the D750. Snapbridge maintains a constant Bluetooth connection between a smart device and the camera, which makes it quicker to establish a Wi-Fi connection.

We weren’t impressed with the early implementations of Snapbridge but it’s gained a lot in the way of features and stability since then. There’s an option to auto-send 2MP versions of every image you shoot, you can set the camera to transfer images you’ve marked in playback mode (these transfers will happen even when the camera is off), or you can browse the images on the camera from your phone. It now supports Raw and video transfer over Wi-Fi, along with geotagging of images based on phone location and extensive remote control of the camera.

The D780 has a new shutter mechanism, capable of 1/8000 sec exposures. The downside is that its shutter shock at moderate exposures is more pronounced than on the D750. You can work around this by selecting ‘Electronic front-curtain shutter’ in the menus and always shooting in Quiet mode (apply the minimum 0.2 sec exposure delay when resolution is really critical), but it’s worth being aware of.

What’s missing?

Not all of the D780’s specs are an improvement on the older model, though. The D780 repeats some of Nikon’s recent product planning decisions that omit some features that were included in the D750.

The most immediately apparent difference is the lack of internal flash. Nikon says the camera can be better weather-sealed if you don’t include a pop-up flash, but anyone looking to use the D780 with off-camera flashes will have to consider the significance of that trade-off for their shooing. You can mount a variety of flash commanders to the hot shoe or push a WR-R10 radio transceiver into the Remote socket on the left of the camera, if you have the latest radio-controlled Nikon Speedlights.

The other obvious omission on the D780 are the connectors to allow duplicate controls on an accessory grip. There’s nothing on the base of the camera and nothing in the battery compartment meaning that, if Nikon does decide to offer a battery grip, it’ll be like the one for the Z6 and Z7, that just adds room for a second battery.

We suspect a lot of users will find the D780’s rating of 2260 shots per charge more than sufficient (especially considering it’s common to get more than twice the rated number, depending on your usage). However, there will be some users that liked the extra reassurance or improved portrait-orientation ergonomics that an accessory grip offers.

Batteries and memory cards

The D780 uses the latest EN-EL15b battery. It looks like a slightly more angular version of the existing EN-EL15 batteries, the distinction being that the ‘b’ variant can be charged over the camera’s USB socket. The D780 can still use the older 15a and 15 batteries but without USB charging, and with significantly reduced battery life if used with the original EN-EL15 batteries not marked Li-Ion20.

Interestingly, like the D750, the D780 continues to use twin SD card slots, now compatible with the newer UHS-II cards. This may seem odd, given the closely-related Z6 uses the more exotic XQD card format. But there’s not much that the D780 does that would demand higher throughput that the 90MB/s rates maintained by the latest v90 SD cards.

Equally, if we see the D780 as an F-mount alternative to the Z6, then it makes sense that it should maximize its backwards compatibility in terms of cards as well as lenses and (to an extent) batteries.

Should I buy a D780?

Considered in isolation, the D780 is a tremendously well-rounded, capable camera, much as the D750 was, but with that capability now extending to video as well as stills shooting. However, it’s also worth considering the question ‘why would you buy this instead of a Z6?’

The Z6 was launched for $ 300 less than the D780 and that was over a year ago, so the current price difference is even greater. The Z6 uses Nikon’s latest lenses, and clearly represents the direction the company and its development efforts are going in, so what would prompt people to still buy a DSLR?

The most compelling reasons would be either because you have a significant investment in F-mount lenses, your style of shooting demands an optical viewfinder, or simply that you prefer using an optical viewfinder. In which case, the D780 looks like a great do-everything option, and one that has been appreciably improved, compared with the D750.

We suspect this is a trend we’ll see from Canon and Nikon for at least a generation or two of camera releases: a variant of their latest mirrorless cameras, built into (perhaps modestly updated) versions of their DSLR bodies, since both companies have die-hard DSLR users. The breadth of the model range might contract, over time, making it less likely that there’ll be a model at the price you want to pay, but there are enough Nikon lenses out there that there’ll be an audience for Nikon DSLRs for a while yet.

Should I upgrade from my D750?

Whether it’s worth upgrading from a D750 is a more difficult question. If you primarily shoot stills, it might not be. There are certainly improvements in terms of image quality particularly on the JPEG side of things, but these alone are unlikely to justify the cost of upgrading. If you only shoot stills through the viewfinder, and haven’t found yourself hankering for improved AF tracking, then it probably makes sense to stick with the D750.

If you only shoot stills through the viewfinder then it probably makes sense to stick with the D750

However, if you would like a camera with the simplicity and accuracy that eye-detect AF brings, it’s well worth a look. It’s also certainly an easier camera to shoot at high and low angles, thanks to its much more usable live view. Most of all, if you have even the slightest interest in video, the D780 is a significantly better camera. If nothing else, it’s a great way to get that familiar DSLR feel with the option of experiencing what Nikon’s Z-series cameras are like to use.

But then, if it’s the video and mirrorless features of the D780 that make you want to upgrade, maybe you’d be better off with a Z6.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

19 Jan

The post Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

portable-portrait-studio

It is wonderful having a permanent studio to work in. But imagine being able to pack that studio into your camera bag and take it with you anywhere you want. You can do this by creating a portable portrait studio.

The problem is, portable studios tend to take up a lot of space.

I traveled from school to school with a portable studio. But it would take up my entire car, leaving no room for a passenger!

Half the fun of being a photographer is embracing constraints. So I decided to see how minimal I could get with a portable studio. Could I create a studio that fits into one small camera bag?

This is an important project because when you are confident that you can make nice portraits with minimal gear, you can take your studio down any road and into any situation. Your limits fade away, and the whole world becomes your studio.

portable portrait studio

This is my portable portrait studio. One camera, one lens, two speedlights, a rainbow of colored gels, one light stand, one umbrella, one reflector, and one piece of white fabric.

A studio is a place to study. By making your studio small and portable, you can study anywhere you desire.

Three things to consider as you travel with your portable studio

1. The person

The person you’re photographing is more important than your gear, your schedule, or anything else. Put all your focus on the person you’re photographing in order to achieve a good portrait. I tested out my new studio with a person, but if you don’t have a model you can practice with toy figures.

2. The light

When you need to make a portrait, look for a good light source.

A larger light source creates softer shadows and a smaller light source creates crisp shadows. Often, softer shadows are pleasing for a portrait.

The first thing I look for is a large window for my light source. If I can find a large window, then I don’t even need to use the lights in my bag. In that case, my portable portrait studio whittles down to a camera and a reflector.

But if I need to create my own light source, then I use a speed light and umbrella or softbox. By itself, the speedlight is a small light source. But the umbrella converts it into a larger light source and softens the shadows.

3. A clean background

You don’t want distractions in the background of your photo. Either keep the background clean and simple or make it part of the story. There isn’t much in your portable portrait studio, so you’ll have to work with the backgrounds you find on location.

The goal for all of these photos is a simple portrait with nice light and a clean background.

Portraits with a large window

Let’s begin with a simple scenario using a large window as the light source.

When you place your subject near the window, and you expose properly for their skin tone, much of the background will fall into darkness.

portable portrait studio

This is not a pleasing environment for a portrait. However, don’t be concerned with what the whole room looks like, only how your final portrait will look. Notice where the girl is positioned in relation to the window.

 

portable portrait studio

The large window has created soft shadows on her face. The catchlights bring her eyes to life. There are some distractions in the background that could have been taken care of with a slightly different composition. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/400 sec.

Portraits with a small window

Smaller windows can produce harsh shadows. The secret is to keep your subject as close to the window as possible. The closer they are to the window, the larger the light source becomes in relation to your subject.

Image: She is placed extremely close to the window.

She is placed extremely close to the window.

 

portable portrait studio

The light on her face is quite nice but the background is distracting. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/400 sec.

 

Image: I moved her to the other side of the window.

I moved her to the other side of the window.

portable portrait studio

I used the wall as the background for the portrait. 50mm, ISO 1600, f/4.0, 1/320 sec.

A portrait using a neutral-colored wall

I found a really good bit of neutral-colored wall but it was not near a window. This is when you need to set up your speedlight and umbrella.

Neutral color background

This patch of grey wall will be perfect as a background.

 

portable portrait studio

The umbrella illuminated both her face and the wall but didn’t cast any harsh shadows. 50mm, ISO 100, f/8.0, 1/200 sec.

 

Creating a white background

You can create a white background by using a white wall or a white piece of fabric in your portable portrait studio. Make sure to illuminate the white background with the second speedlight in your bag.

how to make a white background for portraits

The white piece of fabric will be taped to the wall to use as a background. The second speedlight will light up the fabric so that it turns pure white instead of grey.

Creating a white background

 

portable portrait studio
Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

Turn any background into black

You can turn any background black with two simple steps.

  1. Move your subject as far away from the background as you can
  2. Light your subject with your speedlight but don’t let the light fall onto the background (this is why we’re keeping the background so far away).
how to make your background black

The background is about 20 feet away

 

portable portrait studio

You may need to darken the background a tiny bit more in post-processing. 50mm, ISO 100, f/9.0, 1/200 sec.

 

Make a colored background with gels

You can turn that neutral wall a different color using gels on your speedlight.

how to use gels with your speedlight

Place the colored gel over the speedlight to transform the color of the wall.

 

portable portrait studio
Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road

Go crazy with the light!

There comes a moment in every session when you just have to try something completely different.

Being a fan of backlight, I put both speedlights with colored gels in the background and pointed them right toward the camera.

portable portrait studio

Don’t settle for the same old photos every session. Always try at least one new thing. This was her favorite photo.

 

How to make your studio infinitely larger

It’s good to have a permanent studio as a home base, but even a full-scale studio can become a limiting place. Figure out the minimal amount of gear that you need to make a portrait, pack it into one bag and then go and explore your world with your portable portrait studio.

Here are more tips for portrait lighting as you travel:

  • 5 creative portrait lighting tricks using only phone light
  • How to create awesome portrait lighting with a paper bag an elastic band and a chocolate donut
  • 6 portrait lighting patterns every photographer should know/
  • One speedlight portrait lighting tutorial
  • 5 places perfect natural portrait lighting
  • How to use an outdoor studio for natural portraits
  • Portrait lighting project rainy day

The post Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.


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Irfanview – The Free Program You Need in Your Photo Editing Toolbox

19 Jan

The post Irfanview – The Free Program You Need in Your Photo Editing Toolbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

irfanview-software

You would typically expect an article on a photo editing/utility program to be about the new latest-greatest thing to come out.  Instead, this article will tell you why Irfanview, a program that has been around since almost the dawn of digital photography, is still as useful as ever and, as a photographer, it’s something you’ll want in your toolbox.

This is the main screen that will greet you on the Irfanview.com site.

This is the main screen that will greet you on the Irfanview.com site.

The “Swiss Army Knife” of digital photography

You no doubt have heard of Swiss Army knives, those pocket multi-tools that have all manner of flip-out gadgets to perform whatever task you might require. Need a knife, a corkscrew, scissors, screwdriver, bottle opener, saw, tweezers, you-name-it? You can get all those things in one pocketable tool.

The largest such knife made by the company Wegner is the model 16999, and it has 87 tools that can perform over 141 functions. It’s hardly pocketable, but probably more of a demo of what is achievable. More typical Swiss Army knives have about 15-30 functions and are very pocketable.

Sure, a dedicated screwdriver or saw might do a better job, but the idea of having an entire toolkit in your pocket is the attraction.

The Victorinox SwissChamp knife

Irfanview is like a Swiss Army Knife – Lots of tools in one compact package.

Such is the case with the utility program Irfanview.

This little do-all program is the brainchild of student Irfan Škiljan, from Jajce, Bosnia/Herzegovina, who first introduced the program in 1996. To put that into perspective, the first commercially successful consumer digital camera, the Apple Quicktake 100, was introduced in 1994. I would venture that some of the readers of this article weren’t yet born.

Not only has Irfanview been around for 23 years, like the Swiss Army knife, but it also is small, compact, can fit on, and even be run from a thumb drive and performs more functions than I’ll even be able to cover here.

If you could only have one digital photography tool to work with, I daresay this might be the one you’d want. (Providing you work on a PC, sorry Mac users, this one’s not available for you unless perhaps you use a Windows emulator).

If you have been involved in digital photography for a long time, you may already be familiar with Irfanview. (Especially considering that since 2003 it’s been downloaded over a million times each month.)

It could be that you’ve used it in the past, but have forgotten about it. If so, you might learn some new tricks it can do now that you didn’t know about.

If you’ve never heard of it, it’s time you did. Either way, the list of Irfanview tools, features, functions, and tricks is impressive.

And did I mention it’s all free?

Yes, Irfanview has always been free, though Irfan Škiljan does accept donations and sells the product when used for commercial use. He has pretty much been able to live off the program.

The Apple Quicktake, released in 1995 was the first consumer digital camera.

The Kodak-made Apple Quicktake, released in 1995 was the first consumer digital camera.

What can’t it do?

I bought my first personal digital camera in 1999, a Nikon Coolpix 950. One of the first tools I used to work with my photos was, yup, Irfanview.

Over the years, new features and functions have been added, many of those created by other contributors who’ve created “plugins.” Adding to the already impressive list of functions the native program can perform, there are now over 70 plugins for Irfanview, expanding its capabilities even further.

It might be easier to list what the program can’t do rather than what it can do, but I will attempt to give you an overview of its basic functions. This will not be a “how-to-use” Irfanview article. One of the great things is the program is very easy to learn, and there’s no end of support available.

Pick the 32 or 64-bit version of Irfanview for your particular computer.

32 or 64-bit versions of Irfanview are available. Pick the version (and the plug-ins) for your particular computer.

Acquiring, downloading and installing

The official site for Irfanview is what you’d expect, Irfanview.com. Once there, you will see there are now two main versions, one for 64-bit and the other for 32-bit versions of Microsoft Windows. It will run on Windows XP, 7,8, and 10. If for some reason, you need older versions, those are available too.

Pick the version suitable for your computer. I suggest downloading the versions with the installers build in (these will be .EXE files).

Once downloaded, just double-click the file, tell it where you want it installed, and let it do its thing. (I also mentioned if you want a “portable” program, you can download and install it to a flash drive. It can be handy to have the program with you when you may want to use it on someone else’s computer and not have to install it to their machine.)

The Installation menu for Irfanview

The installation menu for Irfanview.

The Plug-ins

You don’t have to install the plug-ins, but I don’t know why you wouldn’t, as they greatly expand the list of what Irfanview can do. 

The easiest way to do this is to download and install the All Plug-Ins Installer. Be sure to pick the one that matches the version of the main program you downloaded and installed, 32 or 64-bit

Run the .EXE file just as you did the main program. It will find Irfanview on your machine (install that first) and then put the plugin-ins where they need to go. The whole process is very easy and straightforward.

You can configure Irfanview as the default view for whatever filetypes you choose.

You can configure Irfanview as the default view for whatever filetypes you choose.

Exploring the functions

With so much capability, I think the easiest way to give you an overview of the features is to look at the kinds of tasks you might want to accomplish and how Irfanview can handle those. I’ll briefly describe common tasks, though this will not be an in-depth instruction on how to perform the functions.

You might find this website a good resource for that purpose. The beauty of Irfanview is it’s very easy to learn and quite intuitive.

Open, view, save and convert files

As a photographer, you will likely be working with image file types like JPG, TIF, PNG, GIF, or possibly raw files like Canon CR2 or Nikon NEF.  What’s great is Irfanview opens dozens of different file types, even things you probably haven’t even heard of.  Here’s a link to a full list.

Open a file and view information in Irfanview.

You can learn lots about your image when you open it and use the Information option in Irfanview.

Open and View

To open a file/image, go to the File dropdown, pick Open and use the next menu to browse to where your file is located.

Click it once and, with the Preview Active box checked, you will see a thumbnail below.  There will also be information on the width and height of the image in pixels, the color depth, the size in RAM, and the file size.

Click Open or double-click the image and it will open in Irfanview.  If you want to go to the next image in the same folder, just click the spacebar on the keyboard or use the arrows on the top menu bar.

File conversion is a real strength of Irfanview.

Open one image type and convert it to something else. Irfanview excels at this. Here a .tif is converted to a ,jpg.

Convert

A powerful feature of Irfanview is the ability to convert one file type to another. For example, open a TIF file and save it as a PDF file or maybe a JPG. It’s as easy as opening the file and then saving it as whatever else you like.

If you like keyboard shortcuts, Irfanview has many. For example, an open image, click the “S” key to Save and then use the menu to tell Irfanview the file name, type, and location you wish to save it.

Irfanview can run video files too, like this mp4 video file.

Irfanview can run video files too, like this MP4 video file.

Not just for image files, Irfanview can play mp3 and other audio files.

Not just for image files, Irfanview can play MP3 and other audio files.

Not just photos

Irfanview goes beyond just opening photos.  It can also load and play audio and video files.  Want to play an MP3 music file or maybe an AVI video file?   Irfanview can do!

Send Irfanview images to an external editor of your choice.

Setting up external editors allows you to send an image from Irfanview to another editor, Photoshop in this example.

Open with an external editor

If Irfanview can’t do what you need, you can have it send the image to an external editor of your choosing.  You can specify up to three different editors in the Properties/Setting Menu.

The Thumbnails menu is Irfanview gives you many ways to look at your image files in a folder.

The Thumbnails menu is Irfanview gives you many ways to look at your image files in a folder.

View Thumbnails

This is a useful option.  (The “T” key is the shortcut).  Pick this, a submenu will open, and you can then browse all the folders on your drives.  Find the image you want, double-click it, and it will open in Irfanview.  The Thumbnails feature is very robust, offering many ways to view your files and see information about them.

Irfanview is a great program for making slideshows.

Irfanview is a great program for making slideshows.

Make a slideshow

This is one of my favorite features of Irfanview.

You can create an impromptu slideshow from images on any drive – even a plugged-in flashdrive. You can have the images automatically or manually advance, set timings, add music, show text such as file name, or even complete EXIF data.

If you want to save and take your finished slideshow elsewhere, you can save it to a self-contained EXE file, burn it to a CD or DVD, or even create a Screensaver file (SCR). With your computer connected to a projector, Irfanview makes a great presentation program, even allowing you to do things on the fly.

The batch conversion-rename tool in Irfanview is very powerful.

A top feature of Irfanview is its powerful batch conversion-rename utility. I’ve found none better.

Batch conversion/rename

I have not found a better program for this kind of work than Irfanview. Say I need to convert 200 TIF images to JPG, resize them to 1200 on the long side, sharpen them slightly, and rename them all to the same name but with sequential numbering. Irfanview has many of these options. You can tell it exactly what to do, how to do it, and where to save the results.

Once set up, it can work with as many files as necessary and, when set in motion (Start Batch), will quite quickly perform the assigned task.

Yes, the menus are quite extensive in this portion of the program, and taking the time to prepare your batch command carefully is important. What’s great, however, is the extensive options giving you very precise control of what you want.

There’s only one caution I’d give (and the default settings will usually protect you from doing this); if you convert or rename your files, be sure to set Irfanview to make a copy of those instead of overwriting the originals. You don’t want an “oh no!” moment if you discover you made a mistake and overwritten your originals.

Irfanview is a reasonablly capable image editor.

It’s not Photoshop, but Irfanview is a reasonably capable image editor.

Editing images

I won’t suggest that Irfanview will replace your dedicated photo editors like Lightroom, Photoshop, or whatever editing tool you use. That would be like saying the saw on a Swiss Army knife is a fine substitute for a chainsaw when felling trees.

However, in a variation of the saying about the “best camera,” let me say that the best editor is… the one you have with you.

Since Irfanview can work from a thumb drive, if necessary, without even installing it to the host computer, it’s easy to have it with you.

It’s installed on my desktop and notebook computers, and I carry a copy on a thumb drive on my keychain. Don’t leave home without it!

So what can you do with Irfanview as an editor?  Here’s a quick list:

  • Adjust color, brightness, contrast, saturation, gamma,
  • Resize image, canvas size
  • Crop
  • Add text
  • Paint – adjust brush size, color, shape, type
  • Fill
  • Sample color
  • Replace colors
  • Flip, rotate, mirror vertically or horizontally, straighten
  • Draw lines, arrows, shapes
  • Add borders, frames
  • Convert to grayscale, adjust color depth, invert to negative
  • Show histogram
  • Fix Red-Eye
  • Sharpen
  • Clone Stamp
  • Plus more!
Create multi-image montages with Irfanview.

Use Irfanview to create multi-image montages.

Other editing/compositing functions

Irfan has other great tricks it can perform. Need to create a contact sheet? Make a montage image? Yes, Irfanview can do these things.

While it also has a “Panorama” creation function, this is not a stitching program that can detect and seamlessly merge multiple images. It works better for making horizontal montages with multiple images where the edges need not match.

For stitching panoramas, I would instead suggest another free program, Microsoft ICE, on which I wrote this previous article.

Irfanview can control your scanner, bringing the scanned image into the program for further work.

Irfanview can control your scanner, bringing the scanned image into the program for further work.

Scanning, copying, and printing

Irfanview can connect to scanners and other TWAIN devices to bring images directly into the program. Point Irfanview to the device, and it will allow you to scan single or multiple images.

If you need to make a quick copy of something and have both a scanner and printer connected to your computer, Irfanview has a Copy Shop feature that scans the image and immediately sends it to the printer.

Still more tricks

You will want to explore Irfanview on your own as there are more possibilities than I can possibly write about here. As with many things, the best way to learn is to experiment and get some hands-on experience.

Here a few other things you may wish to try:

Screen captures

Need a screenshot to save or send someone?  Use the Print Screen function on your keyboard to capture the screen.  Then open Irfanview and Edit->Paste the captured image.  Crop it as desired and save the image for attachment to your email, further editing, or printing.

Add your exposure data to your photo with Irfanview.

Want to have your exposure data show on your photo? Irfanview can do! Display any Exif or IPTC data you like.

Put exposure data (or other text) on photo

There could be times you might want to display Exposure data or other text on your photo.  Here’s a simple way to do it in Irfanview:

  • Open the photo of interest
  • Drag a box on the portion of the image where you want to display the text
  • Click Edit->Insert Text
  • Use the menu that appears to fill in the information you want to be displayed.
  • You can use the Exif data codes to pull data from the file (if you haven’t overwritten it with a previous edit to the file).  A list of all codes is available in the Irfanview Help menu. Click the Help button in the menu to see them.  See an example in the image above.
  • If you want to be able to save the “recipe” you created, you can save it as a Profile which you can then use later.  This same technique can be used within the Batch conversion tool to do multiple images.
Plug-ins offer many more options in Irfanview like this Effects option.

Plug-ins offer many more options in Irfanview like this Effects option.

Plug-ins and filters

When you really want to dig deep into what Irfanview can do, you can explore the plug-ins and filters option. Here you can do such things as OCR (Optical Character Recognition), which will allow you to scan in a page of text and then convert it to editable text.

There is Facial Recognition (which I’m still deciphering), and there are the Image Effects (with an image open in Irfanview, click Image->Effects->Effects Browser, to get an overview of the various looks you can achieve.

Want even more? There are plug-ins under the Effects Menu like Filter Sandbox or Filter Factory. Irfanview can also use any Adobe-compatible 8BF filters.

Conclusion

The Swiss Army Knife analogy is a perfect description of the way I use Irfanview. It may not be the tool I use routinely, and certainly isn’t my primary photo editor, but, like carrying a utility tool in my pocket, it is oh, so handy when I need it. It’s also easy to always have around.

For a few tasks, it even does things commercial programs can’t or does them in a simpler, better way.

I have used the program for over 20 years, and I can say even as I prepared this article, I learned some new things I’d not yet discovered. If you try it, you, too, will find a place in your photo-editing-toolkit for Irfanview.

Let me know in the comments how you found it useful in your work.

The post Irfanview – The Free Program You Need in Your Photo Editing Toolbox appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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Pentax DA* 11-18mm F2.8 sample gallery (DPReview TV)

18 Jan

$ (document).ready(function() { SampleGalleryV2({“containerId”:”embeddedSampleGallery_5548562135″,”galleryId”:”5548562135″,”isEmbeddedWidget”:true,”selectedImageIndex”:0,”isMobile”:false}) });

Check out these full resolution images shot with the Pentax DA* 11-18mm F2.8 ultra-wide zoom lens, captured while shooting this week’s episode of DPReview TV.

Did you miss this episode? You can find it here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video)

18 Jan

The post How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this Photoshop video tutorial from Piximperfect, you’ll learn how you can remove a fence from your photo in Photoshop – you know, those annoying fences in front of your subject.

?

How to remove a fence from your photo in just 3 steps in Photoshop

Use the following steps to remove your fence:

Step one: Painting out the fence on a layer mask

  1. Make a layer mask.
  2. Zoom in close to your fence, then choose a hard-edged brush that is just slightly larger than the edge of your fence (be sure your paintbrush color is black).
  3. To paint the fence, simply click at the beginning of the fence, then hold the shift key, move the brush to the next section of fence and click. This will create a straight line.
  4. Continue this process over every section of the fence. While this can take some time, duplicating the pattern generally won’t work as no two sections will be the same).
  5. While zoomed in, to move around the image, press the space bar to bring up the Hand and then move the image to where you need it. Then continue painting in the fence lines.
  6. Be sure to paint over all the discrepancies in the fence. If some sections of the fence aren’t straight, simply paint in two or three points.
  7. Once you have painted in all the fence lines, you can move onto the next step.

Step two: Apply the Content-Aware fill

  1. Select the background layer and turn off the fence mask layer using the eye icon next to the layer.
  2. Now hold Ctrl (PC) or Cmd (Mac) and click on the thumbnail of the fence mask layer. This will select the fence layer.
  3. Go to Edit->Content-Aware Fill (If you are using an older version of Photoshop, for to Edit->Fill and then choose Content-Aware from the dropdown section).
  4. This will open up the Content-Aware Fill settings. Leave them at the default settings. Just change the Output To: setting to New Layer. Click OK.
  5. Press Ctrl+D (PC) or Cmd+D (Mac) to deselect the fence.
  6. To see how the Content-Aware Fill tool has worked, turn off your background layer momentarily. Then turn it back on.

Step three: Making minor adjustments

  1. The image may look great while zoomed out on the full image, but when zoomed in close, some areas may not look right. This is where the minor adjustments come into play.
  2. Create a new layer.
  3. You can use the Spot Healing Brush Tool. Paint over areas that need fixing with a soft brush. Be sure that the “Sample All Layers” box is checked too. That way, it samples all the layers below the layer you are working on.
  4. For trickier sections, like eyes, select the Clone Stamp Tool.
  5. Take a sample of a similar section by clicking the Alt Key and selecting. If you need to rotate your clone (for example, around an eye). Hold down Shift+Alt+Right or Left Arrows or > (Win) and Shift+Opt+Right or Left Arrows (Mac)
  6. You can also do that by going to Window->Clone Source and then manually entering in the angle of rotation.
  7. Then use the regular Healing Brush Tool. Click the Alt (Win) or Option Key (Mac) to take your sample then paint in the areas that need fixing.
  8. If you are having difficulty fixing areas such as the eyes, consider duplicating the other eye.
  9. To do this, make a new layer. Then use the Clone Tool and make your selection from the same eye. Then repaint it onto the new layer.
  10. Then press Ctrl or Cmd+D to select it and right-click and select Flip Vertical. This then brings up the corner anchors, and you can rotate the eye as you please.
  11. Next, move the rotated eye section over the top of the original eye.
  12. Click on the Mask icon on the Layers panel to create a mask. Select your brush tool. Remember, a black fill will hide your layer (paint it out).
  13. Start painting out the sections you don’t want. You can lower the opacity of your layer so that you can get it’s positioning just right too.
  14. Next, merge your clone layers (not the background or Content-Aware Fill layers). To do this, select the first layer, then press Ctrl or Cmd and click on the next layer. Then press Ctrl or Cmd+E to merge them.
  15. Continue to look for discrepancies and fix those using the same process.

Step Four: Further adjustments

  1. Now, you can make further adjustments to your image, including selective focus.
  2. Next, create a stamp visible layer.
  3. To do this, first, create a new layer and call it “Selective Focus.” Then select Ctl+Alt+Shift+E (win) or Cmd+Opt+Shift+E (Mac). This will bring your image into the layer.
  4. Then convert the layer to a smart object. Go to Filter->Convert for Smart Filters. Click OK.
  5. Then go to Filters->Blur Gallery and choose Tilt Blur. Next, rotate it. Keep in mind that the areas in the middles are focused – they have zero blur.
  6. Adjust the blur level to whatever you like. You can also adjust the width of the blur area by pulling the lines outward.
  7. Always have your eyes in focus.
  8. You can also add other blur types if you like.
  9. You can also add some sharpness to the eyes. Create another Stamp layer as above. Then desaturate it by clicking Ctrl+Shift+U (Win) or Cmd+Shift+U (Mac). Then go to Filter->Convert for Smart Filter. Click OK.
  10. Next, go to Filter->Other->High Pass. Zoom in so you can see the detail. Decrease the radius slowly and gradually increase it. Just when you begin to see the halos, stop.
  11. Change your layer blend mode to Overlay.
  12. You will see the sharpness on the overall image, but you really only want it on the face. So, hold down the Alt Key (win) or Opt Key (Mac) and then click on the mask. This will create a negative (black) Mask.
  13. First, name it “Sharpen.” Then click the mask, select your Brush Tool, then choose a soft brush and paint on the areas you want to sharpen (Be sure your white paint palette is selected).

And that’s it!

Share your before and after results with us in the comments section!

 

The post How to Remove a Fence From Your Photo in Just 3 Steps in Photoshop (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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DPReview TV: The most important Pentax cameras of all time

18 Jan

Pentax week continues! In this video, Chris takes us for a ride on the wayback machine to look at the most important Pentax cameras in history.

Have your own favorite Pentax model? Tell us in the comments.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • Pentax K1000
  • Asahi Pentax 6X7
  • Pentax LX
  • Pentax Auto 110
  • Pentax K10D
  • Pentax 645Z
  • Conclusion

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photojournalists won’t be allowed to capture the handing over of the articles of impeachment against Donald Trump

18 Jan

Image US Capital, West Side. Captured by Martin Falbisoner used under CC BY-SA 3.0

It’s been revealed the United States Senate will be cracking down on the press corps for the Senate impeachment trial of U.S. President, Donald J. Trump, severely limiting photojournalists ability to document the monumental moment.

Later today, when House leaders hand off the articles of impeachment to the Senate, still photographers won’t be allowed to document the monumental moment, an unprecedented move that’s raising concerns over credentialed reporters’ and photographers’ ability to exercise their First Amendment right to the freedom of the press.

According to a report from Roll Call, Capitol Police Chief Steven A. Sund and Senate Sergeant-at-Arms Michael C. Stenger are putting in place restrictions that will allow just a single video camera to be present in the room. No still photographers will be allowed to press the shutter and no audio recordings will be allowed.

Even after today, the remainder of the trial will see only a single press pen set up on the second floor of the Senate, where legislators will enter and exit the chambers. Reporters and photographers won’t be able to move outside the pen, except for before and after the processions when they’re escorted by proper authorities.

Following news of these restrictions, The Standing Committee of Correspondents, a five-member panel of journalists representing the credentialed press in Congress, fired back saying the restrictions ‘fail to acknowledge what currently works on Capitol Hill, or the way the American public expects to be able to follow a vital news event about their government in the digital age.’

Roll Call reports the ‘planned restrictions […] rejected every suggestion made by the correspondents,’ regarding press access during the trial and The Standing Committee of Correspondents has rejected the claim these planned restrictions are being put in place to protect the lawmakers, saying Capital Police have implemented these rules ‘without an explanation of how the restrictions contribute to safety rather than simply limit coverage of the trial’

Other individuals chimed in on the matter, including Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a U.S. Representative for the NY-14 district, who shared the following tweet:

Photographer and teacher David Hobby also shared his thoughts on the matter, saying:

Unfortunately, these restrictions likely mean photographer David Burnett won’t be able to use his now-iconic 4 x 5 film camera to capture the transfer of articles for the third impeachment in U.S. history.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Xiaomi patent shows pop-up camera with up to seven lenses

18 Jan

Pop-up front cameras are an established design to avoid large bezels, ‘punch holes’ or notches on smartphone fronts. If Xiaomi’s latest patent filing is anything to go by the concept could soon be taken to another level, though.

The documentation which was recently authorized by CNIPA (China National Intellectual Property Administration) shows a pop-up camera that comes with a lot more camera/lens modules than anything we’ve seen up to now.

The patent includes three versions, with the most simple one featuring dual-cameras at front and back. The most advanced variant comes with a dual-cam at the front and five modules on the front.

To accommodate all this the pop-up mechanism is wider than on most other smartphones with pop-up cameras but still, image sensors would likely have to be smaller than on more conventional camera setups. As usual, there is no way of knowing if this patent will ever be turned into a final product but it’s good to see manufacturers looking at new ways of designing smartphone cameras.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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