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Nikon Z 24-50mm F4-6.3 sample gallery

20 Oct

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The Nikkor Z 24-50mm F4-6.3 is Nikon’s most compact and affordable ($ 400 MSRP) lens for full-frame Z-mount cameras. It’s also one of two lenses available as a kit with the excellent, entry-level Nikon Z5 body, and collapses down to a mere 51mm (2″) when retracted. While it’s certainly not the fastest glass in town, it is respectably sharp for a modern kit lens. Take a look for yourself.

See our Nikon Z 24-50mm F4-6.3
sample gallery

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Nikon Z6 II and Z7 II: Should you buy one?

20 Oct
My much-used Nikon Z7, purchased used from a friend (this guy) in late 2018.

Please note that the following article is very much a personal take, written from the perspective of someone who has been using an original Z7 for some time. Your needs (and your experience) may well vary greatly from mine, and I’d encourage you to read our launch content to get a feel for how well (or not) the Nikon Z6 II and Z7 II meet your requirements.

And with that out of the way…

Here at DPReview we get to use a lot of cameras and lenses in the course of our work (lucky us) but despite the availability of free loaner equipment, most of us still own and maintain a personal collection of gear. I’m talking about cameras, lenses and accessories purchased with our own money, for those times when we’re not testing the latest and greatest new thing. Much of my favorite gear of the past few years has – when finances have allowed – made its way into my personal collection.

For two years, my main camera (alongside models from several other manufacturers, I hasten to add) has been the Nikon Z7. The Z7 divided opinion when it was released in 2018 (who knew that so many people couldn’t live without a second card slot…?) but it met my fairly basic requirements very well. I needed high resolution in a compact body, image stabilization, a high–resolution viewfinder (with a priority on detail, rather than refresh rate), and a menu system which I could navigate without getting a headache. Something to replace my D810, with an emphasis on image quality rather than speed.

I had a running list of things I wanted fixed – or at least improved – in a future Z7 replacement

Fast-forward two years and my needs haven’t changed that much. That being said, after spending so long with a single model as my primary ‘creative’ camera (and having used the raft of competitive full-frame options released by Canon, Sony and Panasonic in the intervening time), I had created a mental list of things I wanted fixed – or at least improved – in a future Z7 replacement.

In no particular order, here’s my list – all of which might equally apply to the Z6.

  • Backlit controls
  • More customization for Fn buttons (for example the option to toggle silent shooting on/off)
  • Improved VR
  • Faster AF, better focus reliability in low light
  • A proper analog for 3D AF tracking as found in Nikon’s DSLRs
  • Compatibility with 10–pin MC–30A release (the plug–in MC–DC2 is fiddly and flimsy)
  • A proper vertical grip
  • A less intrusive EVF electronic level
  • Greater articulation of rear LCD (and a less sensitive EVF/LCD switch)
  • More effective sensor cleaning / dust–reduction

Two things not on my list, but I know are very close to some peoples’ hearts: Improved video, and twin card slots.

Of the 12 improvements and additions mentioned above, the Z7 II addresses four of them (highlighted in bold), but only two from my main list. The Z6 II and Z7 II are nearly impossible to tell apart from their predecessors, and that’s quite revealing: They’re extremely similar. Even the old MB-N10 battery grip will fit the the new cameras, which is good news for the five people who bought one.

Unlike the original Z6 and Z7, the new Mark II models are offered alongside a true vertical control grip, which duplicates controls for portrait-orientation shooting.

Is the provision for a proper vertical grip, and improved autofocus enough to make me upgrade from my Z7? Honestly…? probably not. I say ‘probably’ because I’m reserving judgement until I can judge for myself the improvement to AF in low light and the handling difference that the new grip makes when shooting with the Z 70–200mm F2.8 VR S. The fact is that – for me – the original Z7 is still a great camera, and here at DPReview, even two years on, we still consider the Z6/7 to be among the most pleasant to use of the full-frame ILCs currently on the market. If I buy a new camera in the next year or so, it might just end up being a second Z7, if the prices drop low enough. But if I do upgrade, at least I know that the process will be unusually painless (even custom tripod plates for the Z6/7 will fit the new models).

There are a lot of ‘single issue voters’ out there in the camera–buying world

Of course, that’s just me. There are a lot of ‘single issue voters’ out there in the camera-buying world, whether that issue is the number of card slots, USB power, battery life, which way the focus ring rotates (FINALLY something you can customize in the Z6/7 II…) or whatever else.

The Z6 II and Z7 II have twin card slots. They can be powered over USB. They are, undoubtedly, faster and more powerful cameras than their predecessors. Nikon claims that their twin processors allow for improved low light AF performance, as well as more versatile face/eye-AF, reduced blackout time between shots, and faster continuous shooting. Hopefully, the increased processing power will allow Nikon to add more features via future firmware updates, too.

There will be a lot of people reading our launch coverage of the Z6 II and Z7 II and thinking (and no doubt already commenting) ‘these are the cameras that the Z6 and Z7 should have been’. I think that’s unfair (hindsight is cheap – R&D isn’t), but they’re certainly better cameras – and a more convincing entry-point into mirrorless for existing Nikon DSLR owners.

Because the new Z6 II and Z7 II are physically identical to their predecessors, custom plates from the likes of Acratech (shown here) Kirk and Really Right Stuff designed for the older cameras will also fit the new models.

That’s crucial, because while the answer to the question ‘should you upgrade from a Z6 or Z7 to the Z6 II or Z7 II?’ is a resounding ‘maybe…‘, for Nikon users considering whether to move into mirrorless for the first time, it’s much more clear–cut.

If you’re a D750 or D850 (or D5000–series or D7000–series) owner, you’ll probably find these new cameras more attractive upgrade options than the original Z6 and Z7. They work in broadly the same way (if not exactly the same) as the DSLRs that you’re used to, autofocus should be a little better, you can use your existing SD memory cards if you want, without the short–term need to invest in a new media type, and if you need proper vertical controls for portraits or long lens work, you got ’em. Meanwhile the extra processing power makes them a little more future-proof when it comes to firmware updates.

But what if you’re not an existing Nikon DSLR user? Is the Z6 II a better option than (say) the Canon EOS R6, or Sony a7 III, or Panasonic Lumix DC–S5? That’s not a question we can answer yet. They certainly look pretty competitive on paper, and you can see how their specs compare in our database, but bare numbers can only tell you so much. Rest assured though that we’ll be testing both the Z6 II and Z7 II (and adding them to our Buying Guides) as soon as we receive final production samples.

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Ilford Photo Darkroom Guide video series reveals printing techniques and more for beginners

20 Oct

Black and white film and paper manufacturer Ilford Photo has produced a series of videos to help beginners get to grips with essential darkroom techniques. Hosted by Rachel Brewster-Wright from Little Vintage Photography the collection of videos tackles some of the basics of common darkroom questions in a simple to follow format.

So far, subjects covered in the 16-video playlist include dodging and burning, selenium toning, using multi-grade paper and more. The series sits alongside a mass of other educational content from the film-maker that covers issues such as how an enlarger works, pinhole photography, a checklist for setting up your own darkroom and processing your first roll of film. This is mixed with inspirational interviews with black and white photographers and printers, as well as footage inside the Ilford Factory in the UK.

If you want to get started in black and white film photography, or you want a refresher on how it’s all done check out the Ilford Photo YouTube channel.

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Mobile by Peak Design is a new line of smartphone cases and accessories with unique ‘SlimLock’ design

20 Oct

Peak Design is back with its latest crowdfunding campaign. This time, the San Francisco-based accessory manufacturer has found a way to put a unique spin on a new line of cases and accessories for smartphones.

The legs of the tripod accessory fold out wide to create a sturdy base. If you’re using larger, heavier devices, the case even has a built-in hex tool for tightening the joints of the ball mount and legs.

The new Mobile by Peak Design lineup consists of smartphone cases and universal mounts that use Peak Design’s ‘SlimLink’ hardware to easily connect an ecosystem of accessories, including an ultra-compact tripod, various magnetic and locking mounts, a wallet and even wireless charging mounts.

The tripod accessory is tapered and easily snaps into place on the rear of the case or universal mount.

What makes the SlimLink connection on each of the cases and adapters unique is its ability to work with both hard-locking (mechanical) and soft-locking (magnetic) mounts. This means some of the accessories, such as the mobile tripod, can connect with a quick snap of the built-in magnets, while mounts that need a more secure hold, such as the bike and moto mounts, can lock into place for a more secure hold.

A close-up shot of the proprietary SlimLock system.

The SlimLink connection is made of ceramic-zirconium, meaning it will still allow Qi charging to work through the case. At launch, the Mobile by Peak Design lineup will offer dedicated Peak Design Everyday Cases for the following devices (other phones will work using the universal adapter):

  • iPhone 12 (6.1” + 5.4”), Pro Max, Pro
  • iPhone SE2
  • iPhone 11, Pro, Pro Max
  • Samsung S20, S20 Ultra, S20 +
The universal mount ensures nearly any older device—even those with cases—should be able to be adapted to work with the Mobile by Peak Design system.

Peak Design is also supporting cross-compatibility between its mounting system and the new MagSafe connection found in Apple’s latest iPhone 12 devices. Specifically, Peak Design says its soft-locking mounts and accessories (tripod, wallet, charging stand, wall mount and car mounts) will work with Apple’s MagSafe phones and cases. Peak Design also says iPhone 12 devices in the Peak Design Everyday Case will work with Apple’s MagSafe charger and notes Apple’s MagSafe accessories, such as their wallet, will be able to be connected to a Peak Design Case, but it doesn’t specify how exactly that will be achieved.

As of the announcement of the Kickstarter campaign, Peak Design lists four different cases or adapters and eleven different accessories. An infographic overview of the ecosystem is shared below:

You can find out more information on the Mobile by Peak Design lineup by heading over to the Kickstarter campaign. Below is an infographic with a pricing breakdown for the various accessories, adapters and cases. As with all of Peak Design’s other products, all cases and accessories are individually serialized and guaranteed for life.

This is Peak Design’s 10th Kickstarter campaign and should, if it reaches its goal, ensure Peak Design surpasses smartwatch manufacturer Pebble for the all-time most money raised through Kickstarter campaigns — $ 43.4M.

After a successful funding and launch on Kickstarter, the Mobile by Peak Design system will be available to purchased through Peak Design’s online shops as well as partnered retailers in Spring 2021.


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.

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7artisans releases $255 35mm F0.95 manual prime for APS-C mirrorless camera systems

20 Oct

7artisans has announced yet another affordable ultra-fast manual prime lens, the 35mm F0.95 APS-C lens for Canon M, Fuji X, Micro Four Thirds, Nikon Z and Sony E mount camera systems.

The lens, which retails for just $ 255, is constructed of 11 elements in 8 groups, has an aperture range of F0.95–16, offers a minimum focusing distance of 37cm (14.5”) and has a 12-blade aperture diaphragm. It offers a 43º angle of view, has a declicked aperture dial and weighs just 369g (13oz).

Photo Rumors, who is an authorized 7artisans retailer, has shared a gallery of sample images taken with the lens attached to a Sony a7 III:

7artisans 35mm f/0.95 sample photos

The 7artisans 35mm F0.95 APS-C lens is available to purchase for $ 255 through 7artisan retailers, including Photo Rumors.

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Adobe Lightroom Classic 10.0 released, includes Color Grading and more

19 Oct

Adobe has released Lightroom Classic version 10.0, ushering in a variety of performance improvements and new features, including new controlled color grading adjustments for shadows, midtones and highlights.

With Lightroom Classic’s new color grading tool, users can control the color separately in midtones, shadows and highlights, or adjust the color of your entire image with a global control. The Color Grading panel replaces Split Toning and offers additional control overall color. Within Color Grading, you can adjust hue, saturation and luminance by moving the point in each color wheel. When making adjustments, if you hold the Shift key or Command key, you restrict wheel movement for Saturation or Hue adjustments, respectively.

Image credit: Adobe

The Color Grading panel also includes Blending and Balance sliders. The Blending slider ‘adjusts the amount of overlap between the shadows and highlights.’ The Balance slider balances the effect of sliders between highlights, midtones and shadows. If the value is greater than zero, the effect of highlights will be increased. A value below zero increases the effect of the shadows. If you want to recreate the effect of the old Split Toning effect, set the Blending slider to 100.

A few weeks ago, Adobe showed a sneak peek at the new Color Grading feature. You can view the early look at the feature below.

Lightroom Classic version 10 includes performance improvements as well. Adobe promises faster editing when using brushes and gradients when GPU acceleration is enabled. Further, the new version delivers faster scrolling through the Library Grid, Folders and Collections, particularly for users with large catalogs.

When using the Loupe, Compare and Reference views in Lightroom, there is improved control over zoom levels with new Scrubby zoom and Box zoom options. Scrubby Zoom can be used while dragging your move left or right while pressing the Shift key. This is only available when GPU acceleration is enabled. The Box Zoom is available in Library and Develop modules by pressing Ctrl on Windows or Command on macOS while drawing a box with your cursor. The Navigator panel has been updated as well, it now offers Fit/Fill, 100% and Zoom percent options (ranging from 6% to 1600%).

A summary of Lightroom Classic version 10.0’s new features. Click to enlarge. Image credit: Adobe

For Canon camera users, you can see what you are shooting in real-time when tethered to Lightroom Classic version 10. Your connected camera’s live view will appear in a new, resizable window with orientation options. The tether bar includes focus control buttons and an autofocus button. To learn more about this feature, check out this article.

In addition to new tethered support, Lightroom Classic 10.0 includes new camera and lens profile support. The Fujifilm X-S10, Panasonic Lumix S5, Sony A7C and Sony A7S Mark III are all now supported. A variety of Sigma lenses and Voigtlander lenses have new support in Lightroom Classic 10.0. You can view the full list of supported cameras and lenses via the following links: Supported cameras and supported lenses.

When you update Lightroom Classic to the latest version, you will be prompted to upgrade your catalog. When doing so, a new feature will allow you to control the name of your catalog. To learn more about the new features in Adobe Lightroom Classic version 10.0, click here.

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Fujifilm Announces the Mirrorless X-S10, With 20 FPS and IBIS

19 Oct

The post Fujifilm Announces the Mirrorless X-S10, With 20 FPS and IBIS appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Fujifilm X-S10 announcement

Last month, we were fortunate enough to get a major camera announcement from Sony: the a7C, a compact-yet-full-frame option designed for vloggers, hybrid shooters, and anyone looking to gain top-notch image quality in a smaller body.

But now it’s Fujifilm’s turn to offer a camera guaranteed to impress vloggers, hybrid shooters, and more.

Just last week, Fujifilm announced the X-S10, an APS-C mirrorless model that combines a compact design with standard Fujifilm performance, while also sporting impressive video capabilities, continuous shooting speeds, and in-body image stabilization.

The X-S10 will feature a 26.1-megapixel X-Trans sensor, which is in line with Fujifilm’s current flagship options (the X-T3 and X-T4) and will undoubtedly perform well. You also get a decent viewfinder (2.36M-dot) which, while not quite as high resolution as the new X-T4, should satisfy most photographers.

And the 3” rear LCD is fully articulating, for anyone looking to shoot at awkward angles or do some inconspicuous photography from the hip.

Fujifilm promises lightning-fast autofocus, claiming that the X-S10 is adept at “achieving focus in as fast as 0.02 seconds in some cases, even at -7.0 EV.” And the X-S10 is also “equipped with high-precision Tracking AF for moving subjects and Face-Eye AF function to track a subject’s face and eyes.”

When it comes to continuous shooting speeds, Fujifilm has never been a company to let its customers down. The X-S10 continues this trend, featuring a walloping 20 frames-per-second continuous shooting speed when using the electronic shutter (though this drops to 8 frames per second when working with the mechanical shutter).

And as for image stabilization:

Fujifilm found a way to keep the IBIS down to a reasonable size, stating that the “camera’s IBIS mechanism is approximately 30% smaller in volume and weight than the previous, similar X series model” (here, Fujifilm is referring to the X-T4). This means that Fujifilm was able to successfully slip its IBIS technology into the X-S10, which is a huge deal, especially for photographers who frequently find themselves in low light situations. The handholding boost provided by a bit of IBIS can be the difference between sharp and blurred images.

Finally, we have the X-S10’s video capabilities to consider. While there’s no 4K/60p recording, you do get a respectable 4K/30p. Combine this with the image stabilization and the fully-articulating screen (discussed above) and you have yourself a useful little camera for vloggers and video hobbyists.

So if you’re a vlogger, a hybrid shooter, or simply a photographer looking for a compact mirrorless option, consider the Fujifilm X-S10.

The camera will begin shipping toward the end of November for $ 1000 USD (body only), $ 1400 USD (with an 18-55 f/2.8-4 kit lens), and $ 1500 USD (with a 16-80mm f/4 kit lens). But you can preorder your copy right here.

Now over to you:

What do you think of the Fujifilm X-S10? Would you rather have the Fujifilm X-S10 or the Sony a7C? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post Fujifilm Announces the Mirrorless X-S10, With 20 FPS and IBIS appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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DPReview TV: The quality of light, and how different types of lights affect your photos

19 Oct

Having light is critical for photography, but what about the quality of light? Our resident mad scientist, Don Komarechka, explains how different light sources can impact your photos.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week

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Video: How to create ‘mind-bending’ drone photos with a little creative thinking

19 Oct

The Cooperative of Photography, better known as COOPH, has shared ‘Droneception,’ a quick tutorial video that breaks down how to create ‘mind-bending’ drone images using two-shot, three-shot and more advanced multi-shot methods.

The video is three-and-a-half minutes long with only visuals and text overlays for instructions, but it’s succinct and manages to effectively convey the steps required to get the shots and make the final compositions. These methods should work with nearly any drone, so whether you’re using the newest DJI or a few year old no-name brand, the magic happens with the creative thinking ahead of time and the post-processing done afterwards.

For more videos, head over and subscribe to COOPH’s YouTube Channel.

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10 Tips for Improving Your Wildlife Photography

18 Oct

The post 10 Tips for Improving Your Wildlife Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

A guest post by wildlife photographer Morkel Erasmus.

wildlife photography tips

Ever since DSLRs became readily available, more photography enthusiasts have started venturing into wildlife photography.

It seems that wildlife photography, in conjunction with landscape photography, has really seen a huge growth spurt over the last few years, at least as it pertains to the number of people practicing it as serious hobbyists or budding professionals.

This is especially true in my native country of South Africa, where it’s long been many a family’s tradition to visit legendary self-drive safari locations such as Kruger National Park. Having neighboring countries like Namibia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe doesn’t affect this trend negatively!

Yet spend some time on your favorite online photography forum (at least those that allow the posting of photos) or on other sites like Facebook or Flickr where photosharing is common, and you might notice that not every photo taken of a wild animal really speaks to you.

I’m not sure whether many folks just snap away and hope the image comes out half-decent, or whether many just think they’re doing their subjects justice (when that is not at all the case). Let me say outright that no offense is intended, and I also take photos that fall into the above categories.

In fact, I do it on every photographic trip I take.

But it’s stepping beyond that and getting a rare wildlife image that ticks all the right boxes that we all need to strive for. And we must be prepared when the opportunity comes along.

zebras fighting

In today’s article, I will attempt to provide you with some easy-to-apply tips and advice for improving your wildlife photography.

Some of these tips might seem like common sense, and you’ve probably read a similar list of “how-tos” elsewhere. But remember that common sense is not so common at all these days and that everyone has their own take on things, however similar it may be.

I do think I will cover a few points that are not just based on pure technical skill; photography is, after all, an art-form. Sometimes we need to be freed up to capture the vision we have in our mind’s eye, rather than stick to conventions and norms.

Here is a quick overview of the points I will cover in this article:

  1. Know your gear
  2. Know the wildlife
  3. Know the wildlife photography “rules;” break the wildlife photography “rules”
  4. Work the light
  5. Shoot wider; shoot closer
  6. The more, the merrier
  7. How low can you go?
  8. The content-technical dichotomy
  9. Patience isn’t a virtue; it’s a necessity
  10. Be there and enjoy it

These are the points that I try to cover when leading a photographic safari or presenting a workshop.

(Also note that I include the genre of bird photography in my definition of wildlife photography.)

Let’s get cracking!

a wildlife photography example of a lion on a dune

1. Know your gear

This sounds like the biggest cliché, but you know that it’s true.

The really great, action-packed moments in wildlife photography last, on average (based on my experience), between 5 and 20 seconds. If you are not deeply familiar with the settings of your camera or the abilities of your chosen lens, you will either miss the shot or blow the images you do manage to capture.

Here’s what’s important:

  • Know the minimum shutter speed at which you can obtain a sharp image with your camera/lens combo
  • Know any added margins that the in-camera or in-lens stabilization gives you
  • Know how to quickly toggle between focus points or focus modes
  • Know how high you can push your camera’s ISO setting and still achieve acceptable results

In general, I like to say that you need to be able to make most, if not all, of the necessary adjustments to your exposure/focus settings without lifting your eye from the viewfinder.

The action you see between the cheetahs in the following image lasted all of 10 seconds, even though we sat with them for more than an hour:

cheetahs playing

2. Know the wildlife

This goes without saying, right? Since much of wildlife photography is based upon capturing fleeting moments of natural history (read: interesting poses or behavior), it pays to be able to somewhat predict your subject’s behavior beforehand.

Granted, not every species is as predictable as the next. But there are patterns of behavior ingrained into every animal species. Knowing your subject can make the difference between being ready and prepared for capturing that “golden moment” and watching in agony as it flies by.

Now, there is only one way to get to know wildlife:

Spend time with it. Don’t just hang around for a few minutes and seek out the next subject if the one you are observing or photographing isn’t delivering the goods. Sit with wildlife. Watch wildlife. Wait.

(This also ties into patience, which I will discuss in more detail later.)

This image was captured by knowing what the Lilac-breasted Roller was going to do to its grasshopper-lunch, and being ready for it:

roller eating lunch

3. Know the wildlife photography “rules;” break the wildlife photography “rules”

There are certain unwritten rules that form the foundation of good photography, regardless of genre. And, of course, then there are certain “rules” that find their application mostly in the genre of wildlife photography.

Understanding proper exposure and the use of the histogram, as well as creating proper compositions using a guideline such as the rule of thirds, are all important to ingrain in your subconscious. You want to be able to instantly capture that fleeting moment properly.

In wildlife photography, much is made about eye contact with the subject, as this gives life to the image. In the case of avian photography (birds), you can take this a step further: the head angle in relation to the camera’s imaging sensor needs to be at least perpendicular to it, but ideally turned a few degrees towards the sensor (and therefore turned towards the viewer, who ultimately gets to view the image captured by the sensor).

The image below, for example, follows strong rule-of-thirds compositional guidelines:

wildebeest on a dune as stunning wildlife photography

Once you know the “rules” and the guidelines, and once you know when and how to apply them, it’s time to start breaking them. You should test the boundaries a bit, you know? You don’t want your photos to always look like the standard images that every photographer is getting.

Take a look at the image below. I mentioned the “need” for eye contact. Yet sometimes it can work to shoot an image in which the subject is not giving the photographer eye contact (this often means the animal is busy with something else and too busy to turn its attention to you).

thirsty Zebra foal makes for intimate wildlife photography

4. Work the light

The first piece of advice I got from a professional wildlife photographer when I started shooting is to stick to the hours of golden light.

This means getting up early in the morning and being in the field before sunrise, and going out in the afternoon to make the most of the last hours of sunlight. The light at midday (mostly between 11:00 and 16:00, at least where I live) is generally harsh and robs images of that spunk that they need. The exception is on overcast days, when the clouds act like a massive softbox and filter out the light evenly.

On days like that, I shoot all day (as long as there are willing subjects!).

Since photography is all about painting with light, you need to know how to use the light to your advantage in wildlife photography. Often, we will find ourselves in a position where the light isn’t ideal or, heaven forbid, the light is sweet but from the wrong direction (and we aren’t in a position to move to a better spot).

The good news is that light from the wrong direction can add lots of mood to an image. Shooting into the light is tricky to pull off, but if you adhere to my first tip (to know your gear), you can get some pretty interesting images from a less-than-ideal light position. The image below is one such photo:

backlit sprinboks at dawn

5. Shoot wider; shoot closer

Too many wildlife photographers get fixated on what I call the “focal-length debacle,” where it becomes an obsession to have the longest/biggest lens possible.

Now, I know this is location-dependent, as you might need more than 600mm just to get any shot at all in certain wide-open spaces. But the issue I want to tackle is more related to our obsession to get as close as possible to the animals and isolate them totally from their environment. The result is often an image that looks like it could be taken of a captive subject in a controlled location, with a perfectly smooth background and no idea of the real environment in which the animal finds itself.

Instead, challenge yourself to shoot at a wider angle to give the viewer a better idea of where you took the image and where your subject has to eke out a living in the wild. This is applicable to any species you photograph, from a squirrel to a deer to an elephant.

The elephant below was photographed with a wide-angle lens and a polarizing filter to give you a sense of the environment, as well as to make the most of the clouds and sky:

elephant in the landscape as wildlife photography

The flip side to shooting wider is (you guessed it!) shooting closer.

And I mean way closer. Get in-your-face close (by changing your position or by using a longer lens with an optional teleconverter) to create different and interesting studies of the animals and birds you photograph. This will also help you think in terms of more abstract compositional arrangements.

Have a look at this photo of a Cape buffalo, for example:

buffalo abstract close-up of ear

6. The more, the merrier

No real intricate explanation needed on this one. In wildlife photography, one is company and two is often a crowd, especially when there’s food or shelter involved. If you have a good view of more than one member of a species, stay a while!

Look at the images below. First up: a solitary African spoonbill, minding its own business on a perch, happy as can be. Throw another spoonbill into the mix, and you have a recipe for good interaction:

spoonbills in the trees; the more the merrier wildlife photography tip

7. How low can you go?

This is not a trick question, nor is it a call to do the limbo. The point of view of a wildlife photograph is just about everything. How you portray your subject can make all the difference in the world.

In short, try to get an eye-level perspective (or go even lower if you can). This brings the viewer of your image right into the scene and confronts them with the view of the world from your subject’s perspective.

Obviously, what counts as eye-level is relative (you will pretty much always be at a lower perspective than a giraffe, for example), but you get the idea.

Always bear in mind the constraints of your environment. In most reserves in South Africa, you are not allowed to get out of your vehicle in the field. This restricts you to a certain perspective.

Look at the images below for illustration. The first African painted dog was photographed from an open game viewer. The result is a somewhat bland shot; it’s nothing special to my eyes.

The second image, however, was taken lying flat on my stomach in a sandy riverbed not 20 meters from the pack of canines, and the alpha male was checking me out. This perspective makes the image come alive.

wild dogs

8. The content-technical dichotomy

This is an interesting one. Does great content trump a technically great image that includes average content every time?

It may be different where you live, but I am particularly relating this one to the African safari experience. Every tourist wants to see the “big 5,” or at least a lion. But if you’ve ever spent time around wild lions in the daytime, you will know that they are actually shoddy models for photography. They sleep up to 20 hours per day.

Conversely, I have had great photo opportunities from impala, who are the most common ungulate you’ll come across down here in the bush. My advice to the discerning photographer would be to look for great opportunities regardless of the species when the light is good!

Have a look at the contrast between these two images: an impala jumping gracefully and a “standard” portrait of a male lion, both in good light. Which do you prefer?

a lion (above) and a leaping impala (below)

Let’s use a second example, lest it look like I am becoming blasé about the subjects I am fortunate to be able to photograph in our wonderful part of the world:

Squirrels.

Everyone photographs squirrels, right? In the images below, the top squirrel is munching something with nice soft light and a nice low angle. And at the bottom, a mommy is carrying her youngster at a precarious height over a large branch at speed by biting down on the youngster’s stomach flap with it holding on for dear life. The light in the tree canopy wasn’t the best, but this is clearly a case of content trumping a technically good image.

squirrels

The jury is still out on this one. Awesome sightings of lions won’t always provide awesome images. Learn to see the potential in the mundane to create amazing photographic moments, then go out and make good images.

The obvious ideal is to capture a wildlife image with great content in great light shot with just the right settings: the utopian photo that most of us will never get right.

9. Patience isn’t a virtue; it’s a necessity

As a wildlife photographer, your images are predicated on the fact that things in nature are unpredictable.

Anything can happen at any time, but most things happen only rarely. Or, at the very least, they rarely coincide with the exact time that you are in that specific spot.

It is therefore imperative that you become patient. Very patient.

Now, I sometimes catch myself being very impatient out in the field. It’s something you constantly have to work on.

In fact, it’s almost a culmination of many of the things we’ve discussed so far. Observing your subjects and getting to know their behavioral patterns requires a great deal of patience.

Often, the implication is that you need to return to the same spot for days before things start to happen. And even if you do that, you run the risk of nothing happening and wasting your time.

The image below was captured after staking out the tree with the impala kill for more than five hours. I had also driven past this tree many times earlier that day to see if there was any action. I knew the leopard would return, but I had no guarantee that it would return before nightfall.

a leopard ascends a tree to find its kill

10. Be there and enjoy it

I will conclude this lengthy article with the following advice (I do hope you haven’t been bored to tears reading this!):

Be there and enjoy it!

running cheetah wildlife photography example

By this, I don’t just mean that you need to physically show up and be at the right place at the right time (although of course that applies).

I actually mean that you need to be present in the moment. Don’t get so caught up in the technical issues and your settings that you don’t take in the moments you are witnessing while out photographing birds and wildlife. We need to be mindful of the privilege of spending time in nature and being in places where humans haven’t quite exerted their full force.

landing kingfisher wildlife photography example

Maybe for you this is just the most isolated spot in your local park where you can sit and observe and photograph squirrels and birds. Or maybe it’s facing a wild Kodiak bear on the Alaskan floodplains.

giraffe with a rainbow in the background wildlife photography

Regardless, enjoy what you are doing! Have fun doing it! How does it help us to spend so much time on this amazing hobby cum art form if we are not enjoying the time spent?

I hope these wildlife photography tips will stand you in good stead out there in the field. They have for me. Good light and good sightings to you all!

About the author: Morkel Erasmus

After having been an avid naturalist from a very young age, picking up a camera for the first time early in 2009 proved to be a pivotal moment in the life of Morkel Erasmus. Since then, he has been infused with an unbridled passion for capturing forever fleeting moments of natural history and sharing them with people to showcase the wonderful natural heritage of his native Southern Africa, and to create awareness to conserve this heritage for future generations.

“I absolutely love being in the wild and unspoiled places of this world,” says Morkel, “and living in South Africa means there are plenty of those to choose from.”

An industrial engineer by profession and an accomplished artist across many genres, from music to poetry, Morkel has always enjoyed whatever allows him to express his creativity to the fullest. Photography turned out to be the perfect marriage of his engineering brain and artistic soul. Showing off God’s glorious creation is something he enjoys immensely. He is also a Nikon South Africa ambassador.

Besides being widely published, Morkel has been honored for his commitment to his craft with various awards in the short span of his photographic career, most notably by receiving a “Highly Commended” award for one of his images in the 2010 BBC Veolia Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition. Morkel is a devoted husband and a proud father of a beautiful daughter and soon-to-be-born son.

See more from Morkel on his homepage or blog, and connect with him on Facebook, Twitter, 500px, and on Instagram.

The post 10 Tips for Improving Your Wildlife Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.


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