The post 11 Tips for Posing People With Confidence (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
How can you pose people in photography with amazing results?
In this article, you’ll discover 11 simple tips to start people posing like a pro (plus plenty of example images).
So if you’re ready to take your portrait photography to the next level, then let’s get started!
(Also, if you’re looking for posing inspiration, check out our handy Portrait Posing Guide, which offers a whopping 67 sample portrait poses.)
Before the shoot
Here are some points to think about before you even pick up your camera:
1. What kind of shoot is it?
The posing requirements for a family portrait shoot are very different than the requirements for a fashion shoot.
So don’t think about posing until you’ve determined the type of shoot you’re doing!
2. Look for inspiration online
Chances are that you have a few photographers you follow on websites like Flickr and 500px. You’ll find some good poses in their portfolios.
So download your favorite poses to your smartphone (or use Pinterest to create a mood board; I cover this in more detail in my article, How to Plan the Perfect Portrait Shoot). That way, you have something you can show to your model.
Don’t try and commit the poses to memory – you will forget them under pressure!
3. Match the pose to your model
This is important.
You’ll see some wonderful poses in fashion magazines. But many of them need a professional model to pull them off.
And your model may not be able to do those – so tailor the pose to your model (not the other way around!).
4. Buy the Posing App
The Posing App gives you over 300 poses that you can access on your smartphone.
Screenshots from the Posing App. The line drawings are easy to understand and follow.
The best way to use the app is to select five to ten poses and add them to your favorites. Then you can show them to your model so they know what you want them to do.
(In fact, the author of the app has written several articles about posing for Digital Photography School you will find useful!)
During the shoot
No matter how experienced or inexperienced your model is, here are some tips to help you capture the perfect pose during the shoot:
5. Build rapport
This is essential. If your model likes you and sees what you are trying to achieve, they will work harder.
Talk to your model about things they like; this will help produce more life in their eyes and get better expressions, including natural smiles. And they’ll be more relaxed.
But if your model is tense, you are going to struggle to get natural-looking portraits. In that case, take the pressure off the model and bring it back on yourself. Assure them that if the photos don’t work out, it’s your fault, not theirs. Build their confidence.
6. Look for natural expressions
As you talk to your model, you will notice natural expressions and mannerisms that you can capture.
Don’t be afraid to say “Hold that pose!” or “Do that again.”
I noticed that this model had an interesting mannerism, so I asked her to repeat the gesture. The result turned out to be one of her favorites!
7. Adapt poses
When you suggest a pose to your model – such as a pose used in another photo or a pose from the Posing App – treat it as a starting point. Then adapt it to suit the model.
In other words: If your model looks unnatural in a certain pose, then change it! Adjust each pose to suit your model’s body and clothes.
The pose on the left is one I found in the Posing App. For the second portrait, I asked my model to drop her left arm so I couldn’t see it. Don’t be afraid to tweak poses; sometimes a small change makes a big difference.
8. Simplify
Keep everything as simple as possible. This applies to composition, as well as the clothes and jewelry your model is wearing.
If your model has too much jewelry, ask them to remove some. It’ll improve the composition.
If you’re struggling to find a good full-length pose, move in closer and shoot from the waist up, or do a head-and-shoulders portrait. The background will go more out of focus, and there will be less of the model in the photo (i.e., the shot will be simplified!).
Simplification in action. The closer you crop, the easier it is to pose your model. This is a good technique to use if you are struggling to make a certain pose work.
9. Pay attention to detail
Pay special attention to hands, which often look better turned sideways. Look at photos where the model’s hands look elegant or are nicely posed, and ask your model to do the same.
Check your model’s hair to make sure stray strands aren’t blowing across their face or eyes. Look at their clothes to make sure they aren’t wrinkled or creased in a strange way.
10. Find something for your model to lean on
This makes it much easier to create a natural-looking pose.
Two different ways to use a wall to give a model something to do. The Posing App has lots of poses for leaning.
11. Use props
If the model has a prop to hold or otherwise interact with, it gives them something to do.
The model in this photo was into hooping. Using the hoop as a prop gave her something to hold and added interest to the portrait.
And if they’re having fun with the props, you’re more likely to get a great expression!
I suggested the model bring her horses along to the shoot. The horses are a natural prop, and her interaction with them led to photos like this one.
Posing people with confidence: conclusion
There you have it:
11 easy tips for posing people!
So the next time you’re photographing a person, make sure to try some of these tips out!
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for our readers about people posing? What has worked for you? Share your experiences, tips, and images in the comments below.
The post 11 Tips for Posing People With Confidence (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
These days we are bombarded by visual content. We see images everywhere from giant billboards on the side of the road to handy little Instagram-sized squares in the palms of our hands. Chances are, every once in a while you see a photo that stops your mindless scrolling in its tracks. You are captivated by what you see and feel Continue Reading Photodoto
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The post 9 Night Photography Tips for Nailing Your Exposure (Every Time) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.
In this article, I’m going to tell you everything you need to know about getting beautiful night photography exposures.
As a longtime night photographer, I’m well-equipped to share with you the best night exposure techniques – so that you can create stunning shots every time you take out your camera.
Specifically, I’m going to discuss:
the best exposure mode for night photography
the best night photography shutter speed, aperture, and ISO settings
a quick way to check your night exposures
much, much more!
So if you’re ready to become a night photography master, then let’s get started!
Note: If you’re serious about night photography and want to really take your night photos to the next level, check out my night photography course. It offers easy-to-follow night photography tutorials with hours of helpful videos and case studies.
1. Work in Manual mode
Here’s your first night photography tip, and it’s a big one:
Make sure you’re shooting in Manual mode.
In Manual mode, you will set the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. This gives you complete control over your camera.
When shooting at night, your camera will be on a tripod, and you will be working slowly. So there is no need to use any automatic mode; even if you’re not totally comfortable with camera settings, you can take your time, carefully dialing in your aperture and shutter speed and checking your exposure.
Further, there might be a little trial and error with the exposure settings (the camera can be fooled by the large differences in bright and dark areas of the picture), and you want to make sure you have plenty of control over this process.
Manual mode gives you that control.
4s | f/5.6 | ISO 400
2. Make sure you are comfortable with Bulb mode
Manual mode only works for exposures up to 30 seconds.
So if you need a shutter speed that is longer than 30 seconds, the only option is Bulb mode. Therefore, while you should generally shoot in Manual, you should also get comfortable with Bulb.
In Bulb mode, the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button. When you hit the button, the shutter opens. When you release the button, the shutter closes.
(Of course, to avoid introducing any shake or movement into the exposure, you must use a remote shutter release when working in Bulb mode.)
With Bulb mode, you can make your exposure several minutes long. If your remote shutter release doesn’t have a built-in timer, make sure you keep another timer handy (e.g., on your phone).
Also, if your remote does not have a timer, make sure it has a locking feature, so you don’t have to hold the shutter button during the entire exposure.
6s | f/5.6 | ISO 1600
3. Shoot in RAW
When shooting at night, it is particularly important to make sure you are shooting in RAW format.
RAW files coming out of most cameras are 14 bits, whereas JPEGS are only 8-bit files. The more bits, the higher the range of available colors and the smoother the transitions between them.
(In other words: RAW files look better.)
Plus, most of the colors a camera can capture are at the top (bright) end of the scale. The range of available colors at the low (dark) end of the scale is extremely limited. At night, your pictures will almost always include a large dark portion. A JPEG file, with its reduced color options, will likely display (very ugly) banding.
So always, always, always shoot in RAW.
4. Bring a flashlight
Knowing your camera controls pays off at night. You can make changes to the settings without being able to see everything.
Nevertheless, a small flashlight is tremendously useful. Keep one handy to make sure you can see everything on your camera and tripod.
(It occasionally comes in handy for lighting areas of your picture, as well!)
10s | f/9 | ISO 200
5. Choose proper settings
Proper settings will always depend on the situation. Nevertheless, there are some helpful guidelines for choosing settings at night:
Aperture: Open up your aperture more at night than you would during the day (i.e., use a lower f-number). Most night photographs tend to require less depth of field than shots during the day. Plus, the background and sky will be black. The larger aperture also has the benefit of letting more light into your camera.
ISO: Keep your ISO setting as low as you can. Night photography always has dark areas, and these dark areas inevitably lead to digital noise. Raising the ISO will compound the problem.
Shutter speed: Whereas shutter speed might be the first exposure setting you worry about during the day, it should generally be the last one you think about at night. Since you will be shooting from a tripod, you can let the shutter stay open as long as you need. If you have traffic (streaking lights), a fountain, or running water in your picture, the longer shutter speed will create a very cool effect. (Note, however, that if you’re shooting in high winds or if the ground is unstable, you’ll need to boost your shutter speed to prevent blur.)
One other setting to check is Long Exposure Noise Reduction, which will be in your camera’s menu. If you enable this option, the camera will take two exposures, one normal and one with the shutter closed. Your camera will then use the second image to filter out noise from the normal picture.
Of course, photos shot with this option enabled will take twice as long to expose, but they’ll also be less noisy.
6. Meter for the highlights
Determining the proper exposure level can be tricky at night, and each metering mode presents its own challenges.
If you use evaluative metering, the camera is likely to be confused. If you use spot or partial metering, the meter will jump around, depending on whether you’ve aimed at a bright light or a dark background.
One answer to this problem is to use spot metering and expose for the highlights. So meter off the highlights, then set your exposure between +1 and +2. The +1/+2 setting will keep your highlights looking bright but will also keep the highlights within the dynamic range of your camera.
Do not worry as much about the dark portions of your picture. If the dark areas happen to turn black, it is nighttime, so there is supposed to be some black. But you can always take test shots and adjust as necessary.
5s | f/16 | ISO 400
7. Take a test shot at a high ISO
You should make liberal use of test shots when shooting at night.
However, you generally don’t want to sit around for 30 seconds, a minute, or even longer, just waiting to see if the test shot is going to work out.
So the best way to create a test file without wasting a lot of time is to take a shot at a much higher ISO than you would ordinarily use.
Let’s say you think the proper exposure settings for a given shot are 30 seconds at f/5.6 with an ISO of 400. Rather than taking that shot and waiting around 30 seconds for the exposure, just crank up the ISO, then boost the shutter speed by the same number of stops. The exposure will stay the same, but it will take much less time to capture the test picture.
For the above example, I would raise the ISO to 6400. Why? Well, raising the ISO by one stop takes it to ISO 800, two stops increases it to ISO 1600, three stops to ISO 3200, and four stops gets you to ISO 6400.
Once you’ve set your ISO to 6400, you can reduce your shutter speed by four stops to 2 seconds. After all, reducing the shutter speed by one stop shortens it to 15 seconds, two stops shortens it to 8 seconds, three stops to 4 seconds, and four stops takes the shutter speed down to 2 seconds.
Then, when you are satisfied with your exposure, just decrease the ISO and lengthen the shutter speed by a comparable amount to get back to the final settings.
8. Bracket your photos
Night photography is one area where you will want to bracket your photos. Blending and HDR can work wonders at night, but even if you don’t like to use those processes, bracket your photos anyway. Think of it as exposure insurance.
After all, if you overexpose or underexpose your file, having a bracket on hand will be the difference between a failed and a successful photoshoot.
30s | f/11 | ISO 200
9. Verify the exposure with the histogram
After you have taken your exposures, you should always check them on your camera’s rear LCD.
However, while the picture on the LCD will show you if the exposure is close to correct, you should also check the histogram.
Why?
Because a histogram is more accurate than your camera’s LCD. You can use it to carefully determine whether the exposure is within your camera’s dynamic range.
Specifically, make sure to keep the highlights on the right side of the histogram, but avoid a spike on the far right. If the dark areas spike on the left side of the histogram, that’s okay; parts of your picture are supposed to be black.
In general, however, keep as much of the image as possible within the range of the histogram, though err on the side of keeping the highlights from blowing out.
4s | f/11 | ISO 400
Night photography exposure: final words
When you follow the night photography exposure tips I’ve given above, you are likely to get some great shots. Every city lights up its major attractions, bridges, and museums – often in colorful ways. So a scene that might be boring during the day can offer great photos at night.
Because of the effects of the lights, you’ll often be surprised by what you end up with (in a good way!). Taking your time and applying these tips to nail the exposure will help you maximize the experience.
And remember:
If you want to improve your night photography skills fast, then check out my night photography course. It’ll teach you everything you need to know about night photography through hours of helpful videos and case studies!
The post 9 Night Photography Tips for Nailing Your Exposure (Every Time) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.
The post How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Are you looking to capture stunning environmental portraits?
You’ve come to the right place.
In this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about environmental portrait photography.
And by the time you’re finished, you’ll be ready to create some beautiful portraits of your own!
Let’s get started.
What is an environmental portrait?
An environmental portrait is a photo taken of a person in a place that says something about who they are. It is often a place where they work, rest, or play.
Why do I prefer environmental portraits?
Environmental portrait photography:
gives context to the subject you’re photographing
adds additional points of interest to compositions (though this is something you need to watch, as you don’t want to distract from your subject too much)
helps the subject relax
often gives the viewer real insight into the personality and lifestyle of your subject
Environmental portraits sit somewhere between the purposely posed shots of a studio portrait (environmental portraits are posed and are unmistakably portraits) and candid shots, which capture people almost incidentally as they go about their daily lives.
Now let’s turn our attention to some how-to tips for stunning environmental portraits:
Tips for beautiful environmental portrait photography
Capturing gorgeous environmental portraits can seem tough.
But there are actually a few simple ways to enhance your portrait photos, starting with:
Spend time getting to know your subject
Before you select a location and start shooting, spend some time getting to know your subject.
Find out where they spend their time, what the rhythm of their life is like, and how they behave.
This will not only help you find appropriate locations but will also help you get a feel for the style of shots that might be appropriate for the session.
Plus, you’ll begin the process of helping your subject relax! If you can, you might even want to accompany your subject to some possible locations; that way, you can see both whether the location suits them, as well as how they behave and interact there.
Choose the right location
Sometimes a location chooses you – but on other occasions, you need to be quite deliberate and purposeful when making your choice. It can take a lot of searching.
You ideally want to find a location that:
says something about your subject. After all, that’s what this style of photography is all about.
adds interest to the shot. As I’ve written in previous tutorials, every element in an image can add or detract from the overall look. The environment in which you place your subject needs to provide context and interest without overwhelming the composition.
doesn’t dominate the shot. Sometimes the location can dominate the image so much that it distracts your viewer from your main focal point (i.e., the subject). So try to avoid cluttered backgrounds (and foregrounds) and colors that are too bright, etc. Keep in mind that you might be able to remove the distractions with clever cropping, depth of field, and subject placement.
Use props naturally
Props can make or break an environmental portrait.
If your props are subtle and naturally fit in the environment, then they can be very appropriate and add to the image nicely.
But you’ll want to avoid any props that don’t quite fit or that distract the viewer.
The same goes for the clothes that your subject wears. Try to be true to the context without getting too outlandish.
Think about posing your subject
What sets an environmental portrait apart from a candid portrait is that you pose your subject.
(In truth, it’s a fine line between candid portraits and environmental portraits; you might end up doing a bit of both in any given shoot.)
Don’t be afraid to direct your subject to sit, stand, or act in a way that fits the environment. Some of the poses might seem slightly unnatural and dramatic, but it’s often these purposely posed shots that are more interesting and give a sense of style to your photography.
The expression on the face of your subject is also very important in environmental photography, and you should consider how it fits with the overall scene.
For example, if you’re shooting in a formal environment, it may not be appropriate to photograph your subject with a big, cheesy smile; you might prefer a more somber or serious look.
Ultimately, just mix it up to see what does and doesn’t work!
Deliberately choose your camera settings (especially your aperture!)
There is no right or wrong way to set up your camera for an environmental portrait. It will depend completely upon the effect you’re after and the shooting scenario.
You might find that shooting at a smaller aperture (i.e., a larger f-number) will be appropriate as it’ll help keep the foreground and background in focus.
I generally shoot environmental portraits with a wider focal length to give the environment prominence in the shot.
Of course, that doesn’t mean you can’t shoot with a longer lens or with a large aperture and shallow depth of field. In the end, anything goes – plus, you’ll probably want to mix up your shots a little.
How to photograph environmental portraits: conclusion
Environmental portrait photography is a great way to create unique and beautiful images.
So the next time you’re doing portrait photography, try applying some of these tips.
You’ll love the results!
Now over to you:
Have you done any environmental portrait photography? What tips would you give other readers? Feel free to share your tips (and images!) in the comments below.
The post How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
The post 10 Tips for Beautiful Black and White Headshots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.
Black and white has long been a popular way to capture headshots with impact and visual interest. The lack of color helps to emphasize the subject while discarding information that isn’t relevant.
And in this article, I’m going to share 10 black and white headshot tips to help you get the best results.
Let’s get started.
Headshots vs. portraits
A headshot is always a portrait, but a portrait (including a closely cropped portrait) is not always a headshot. Remember, headshots (no matter the type) come with a specific goal.
If you’re new to portrait photography, it might help to clear up what a headshot actually is before you try to create one.
Portraits: In general terms, a portrait photograph is a representation of a person. Portrait photography is a broad genre that encompasses nearly every subgenre that involves photographing people. It doesn’t matter if we’re talking studio portraits, street candids, or fashion photography. If it has a person in the frame, it’s probably a portrait.
Headshots: Headshots are a subgenre of portrait photography. The difference is that headshots serve a very specific purpose. Whether it’s actors’ headshots or corporate headshots, the purpose is to sell something. That something could be an actor’s ability to fit a role’s physical requirements, or it could be your business professionalism.
Headshots are limited to close-up images of the subject’s head. They can also include head and shoulders as well as half-length shots. Before capturing a headshot, it’s important you understand where and how the photo will be used so you can get the right shot for the right purpose.
Tips for black and white headshots
Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro | 50mm | 1/80s | f/5.6 | ISO 100
There are no hard and fast rules for creating headshots. However, following these tips will hopefully help!
And as always with photography, remember: There is no one way to do anything.
In other words, nothing listed here is a rule of any sort. If a tip fails to help you get the results you want or need, then discard or revamp it.
1. Remember that a headshot is different from a portrait
Yes, we’ve already discussed this – but when you’re in the middle of a session, it’s easy to get caught up and start changing your approach. This may not be a problem in a normal portrait session, but with headshots, you need to make sure you’re focused on the specific end result. If you change tack and the results aren’t showing your subject in the desired manner, you’ll have wasted time and effort on images that are unsuitable for the subject’s uses.
One way to help keep you on track is to ask your subject to share the purpose of their headshot. Allow them to be as specific and detailed as possible. Once you have an answer to that question, you should find it much easier to stay on track.
If you are photographing an actor with representation, ask them for their agency’s headshot guidelines (or ask the agency yourself). This will give you a strict set of limitations and help to ensure you get the required result.
2. Getting it right in-camera is just as important as ever
By shooting with black and white in mind and getting it right in-camera, you can help make the conversion process much easier. Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro | 50mm | 1/125s | f/5.6 | ISO 100
Depending on where your headshots are going to wind up, you might find that you can’t do any edits beyond basic retouching. You should be allowed a black and white conversion and some basic blemish removal, but much more than that might not be acceptable.
Therefore, do whatever you can to get your images right in the camera. Light your images well with good exposure and good contrast. Learn your lighting patterns and use a meter if you have to.
Get this step right, and you might find that you have little more editing to do beyond the actual black and white conversion.
3. Start in color
It might be tempting to set your camera to a black and white mode at the point of shooting. You can do this – but if you shoot JPEGs, I would advise against it.
By choosing this route, you will be discarding a huge amount of color information at the very beginning. For the best conversions, you’ll want to later manipulate your color information to get the very best black and white results.
(However, note that RAW shooters can use a black and white mode while still retaining color information.)
4. Avoid shooting to crop
By cropping down to a head-and-shoulders composition, you discard most of the information in the frame. Instead, try to get your compositions right at the shooting stage.
This might be controversial, but I’ll stand by it. When you are creating black and white headshots, try to get your composition as close as possible to how you want it to end up.
Doing this will ensure that your images are as big as possible and have as much detail as possible when you pass them on to your client. If you shoot before cropping out significant parts of your image, you will lose out on a large chunk of resolution.
5. Control contrast with light, not post-production
Using a medium-sized octabox up close allows for extremely soft light, thus controlling the contrast. Also, at camera right, you see a background light that reduces the overall contrast in the image.
This point goes back to getting it right in-camera, but specifically for lighting.
One of the quickest ways to ruin a portrait is to add a lot of unnatural contrast in the post-production phase.
Avoid this by setting up your lights to get the contrast you want from the very start.
You can do this through modifier selection and lighting ratios.
6. Use fill to control your contrast
Left: Without fill. Right: With fill. Here you can see how a fill light might help you lift the shadows and control the contrast in your images.
If you want to decrease contrast, make sure to do it in-camera.
You can do this with fill light. Whether you work with a dedicated second light source or a reflector, introducing fill into your images is a great way to control exactly how your black and white headshots turn out.
7. Think in values rather than color
In this image, you can see four distinct areas of value: The highlights of the skin, the midtones of the sweater, and two shadow areas for the hair and the background. Being able to see these at the time of shooting will help you design your black and white headshots better. Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro | 50mm | 1/160 sec | f/4 | ISO 100
Because you are starting in color, it can help to think of things in terms of values.
At its most basic, value simply describes where colors fall on a spectrum between pure white and pure black.
Now, once converted to black and white, almost everything in your images will appear as a shade of gray. If you can visualize how the colors you see with your eyes will be represented in a black and white conversion, you will be better able to design your lighting before your subject even arrives.
How do you learn to do this?
Practice. A lot of it.
Get out there and photograph anything and everything you can, then convert to black and white so you can build this skill.
Remember, different conversion techniques affect color and value in different ways, so be sure to practice with as many conversion methods as possible.
8. Minimize details in the frame
Because we are talking about headshots, you’ll need to remember that the entire point of the photograph is the person. Any extra details will only serve to detract from your subject.
So do what you can to minimize the impact of the background, the subject’s clothing, and other elements in the photo.
For backgrounds, you can focus your efforts on finding the cleanest, most non-distracting backdrop. For clothing, ask your subjects to dress without distracting elements that would take the focus off of them. Patterns can be fine, but it might be best if you avoided particularly bold choices like leopard-print and zebra-stripe tops.
9. Focus on form
When you are lighting your subject, take the time to ensure that you’re using the light to shape their features in the best way possible. Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro | 50mm | 1/100s | f/9 | ISO 100
This goes back to basic lighting skills.
You need to shape your subject’s face in a flattering way that also helps it stand out in the frame.
You are trying to minimize other details, so it is the subject’s features you must focus on. Make as much use of them as you can.
10. Eyes and expressions are more important than ever
With headshots, expressions and eye contact are more important than ever. Do what you can to develop a rapport with your subjects.
As the goal of a headshot is to make your subject look as good as possible, and as you have already reduced the impact of distracting elements, your subject’s eyes and expression become more important than ever.
Lighting for the eyes will keep them bright and prominent in the frame. Doing this also means you won’t have to spend time processing the eyes, which might work well for your client’s requirements.
Also, to get the best expressions, ensure that your subject is comfortable and that you have a good rapport with them.
Black and white headshots: (not) the end
On their own, headshot photography and black and white photography are broad topics that are truly impossible to distill into a short list of tips. However, I do hope that these ten tips for black and white headshots will help you get started on your journey.
As always, none of these tips are rules, just guidance. If you feel that something I said doesn’t suit you or your photography, that’s perfectly fine.
Now over to you:
Which of these black and white headshot tips did you like the most? Do you have any tips for black and white headshot photography? Share your thoughts (and photos) in the comments below!
Should I shoot headshots in black and white mode?
If you’re shooting in JPEG, no. But if you’re shooting in RAW, you can decide whether to shoot in black and white or color (you won’t lose any image information in either mode).
Is black and white a good option for headshots?
Yes. Black and white allows you to strip down the information in the photo to its key elements (in this case, the person whose headshot it is).
What kind of light should I use for headshots?
Any soft light that flatters your subject is a good choice.
How should I do black and white conversions for my headshot photography?
Use whatever method suits you and your workflow best. Photoshop and Lightroom both offer great options for black and white conversions.
The post 10 Tips for Beautiful Black and White Headshots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.
The post 12 Tips for Stunning Black and White Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.
Black and white street photography is classic and timeless. Stripping away color renders a rawness and an alternate reality to street life.
But merely removing the color will not make a compelling street shot. If you want to create strong street images with no color, you need to be intentional. And that’s what this article is all about.
I’m going to give you 12 tips for capturing beautiful black and white street photos. And by the time you’re done, your classic street photography will be much improved.
Why is black and white great for street photography?
Choosing monochrome for street photography can make for great images. That’s because black and white photos often appear more emotional or mysterious. There’s something missing, so we automatically have a sense of wonder.
Whether you are out in the streets or working on the highway, your street photos will convey a different mood in black and white. If you’re intentional about creating this feeling from the start, you can make your photos more compelling.
So how do you take beautiful black and white street photographs?
Here are my 12 best tips:
1. Start well
Pay attention to your camera settings so you can capture in-focus and well-exposed images.
When you nail your settings, you’ll get image files you can work with in post-production.
For instance, you’ll be able to manipulate a well-exposed image without risking quality degradation. Even with the simplicity of black and white, you need to be careful to maintain image structure.
So know the look you want to capture, then choose the camera settings that will achieve it.
Digital photography means it’s easy to capture images in color and later decide to render them in black and white. This will sometimes create good monochrome photos, but not always.
Thinking in black and white and intentionally shooting without color is best.
Despite the amount of control that’s available when converting color photos to grayscale, pictures deliberately taken for black and white editing are often stronger.
3. Look at light and tone contrasts
Without color, you must rely more on tone and light to shape your images.
When you compose your photos, look for where light and dark meet. How do these tones relate to each other? What graphic impact do they have on your composition?
Tone is largely dictated by light. If you are out in the street on a sunny versus a cloudy day, this will affect the style and mood of the photos you’ll be able to take.
Think about how the light looks in black and white – and work with it because you cannot change it.
Figure-to-ground photography is when the main subject sits in stark contrast to the background. This means your subject is most prominent in your photo, even if it only occupies a small portion of the frame.
You can create this look when your subject is in the sun and the background is in the shade:
Or when your subject is in the shade and you have a very bright background. (A silhouette is another example of figure-to-ground photography.)
5. Find a good background
Finding a good background is important for color or black and white street photography. However, when working in monochrome, your background choice is influenced more by lighting.
Will a background that’s completely in the sun or in the shade suit your subject best? Will the type of images you want to create be stronger if there’s more or less tonal contrast in the background?
Once you find a good background, be patient. Wait for some interesting activity to occur – and when it does, take a photo.
6. Be comfortable with what you’re doing
The more comfortable and confident you are when you are out taking photos, the better your images will be.
So if you’re not comfortable in one location, move somewhere else, because worrying about your situation will distract you from being creative.
When you are comfortable, you’ll be able to think more clearly and visualize the scene in black and white. Focus your thoughts on how the parts of your image will look. Observe the colors and imagine how they will look when converted to grayscale.
Don’t get consumed with worries about how other people will notice you and what they might think.
Be aware of everything you include in your frame. Make sure to only shoot what’s relevant to the main subject and to the style of photograph you want to create.
If you are capturing too much and it’s not making your photo stronger, move closer or change your focal length.
Look at the light and shadow and use these intentionally as compositional elements. Include strong shadows to help shape your images. Frame your subject with light and dark areas.
Don’t only focus on capturing a moving subject at the decisive moment; make sure to include it meaningfully in your composition.
Filling your frame does not mean it needs to be cluttered. When it’s intentional, negative space in your black and white street photography can be used very effectively.
When space is left in a photograph without purpose, it weakens the image. But deliberately including empty space will often create a more compelling image.
Think about the lighting and tone in the empty space. Is it going to take away from the main subject? Or will it help the main subject stand out?
Being in control of how your camera autofocuses and exposes your photos means you can be more precise and more creative.
I prefer to use single-point focus as it allows me to focus on the part of my composition I want sharp. If your camera has touchscreen focusing, you can do precise focusing very quickly and easily.
Manual mode and semi-automatic exposure modes put you in charge of which tones in your image will be well exposed. Sometimes, you may want shadows to render black. Other times, you may want highlights to completely blow out while you capture shadow detail. You can manage all of this in Manual mode.
Black and white street photography looks classic. But capturing images with the intention of rendering them in monochrome requires that you think carefully about the light and tones in your compositions.
So before you head out with your camera, take a look at some black and white street photography from the masters. Check out Bruce Davidson, William Klein, and Robert Doisneau, for starters. Look for the secrets of style in their work and let it inspire you.
And remember the tips I’ve shared today!
Now over to you:
What’s your favorite tip from this article? Which tip are you going to implement immediately in your work? Share your thoughts (and your black and white street photos) in the comments below!
How do you change a street photo to black and white?
All image-editing software allows you to convert images to black and white. Desaturating is the simplest way to make a color photo black and white, but it will not bring out the best in the image. You will see better results by controlling the conversion.
Should I shoot in black and white or convert later?
You can adjust your LCD so it shows you a black and white image. On cameras with electronic viewfinders, you can also do this with the display. When you capture a RAW image, it’ll be in color; by converting to black and white from a RAW file, you’ll get the highest-quality results.
What does black and white do to an image?
Black and white can make an image look timeless!
The post 12 Tips for Stunning Black and White Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.
Modeling is one of those extremely competitive careers complete with its own fairytale-like model discovery stories. We’ve all heard about how Kate Moss was discovered at JFK airport or how Gisele Bundchen was found in a shopping mall. However, actually getting yourself signed to an agency and booking modeling gigs can be (and usually is) more similar to getting any Continue Reading Photodoto
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The post 9 Pet Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.
If you’re looking to capture some stunning pet photography, then you’ve come to the right place.
Because while pets are unbelievably cute, taking pictures of your best friend isn’t easy.
Pets, unlike humans, do not understand what we are trying to do. They won’t just pose for the camera!
That’s where this article comes in handy.
I’m going to give you nine simple tips for pet photography…
…that will get you taking beautiful pet photos in minutes!
Let’s dive right in.
1. Use natural light
When doing pet photography, always use natural light.
Why?
For one, flash can cause the red-eye effect, which looks, well, bad.
Plus, flash bursts can scare animals.
That’s why I recommend shooting outside (go out when it’s cloudy for some soft diffused light).
You can also try shooting indoors, but make sure you’re in a well-lit room (ideally one with a large window).
2. Keep the eyes sharp
Sharp eyes are always important in portrait photography – and pet photography is no different!
As they say, “The eyes are the window to the soul.” And your pet’s eyes can be very expressive.
So make sure to focus on your pet’s eyes. Keep them tack sharp.
(If you’re working with a shallow depth of field and can only get one eye in focus, make sure it’s the one closer to the camera!)
These days, some cameras offer eye AF for animals. With eye AF activated, your camera will identify your pet’s eyes – and nail focus consistently! So if your camera does offer this feature, I highly recommend you try it out.
3. Go to your pet
It is very important that your pet feels comfortable and at ease.
So instead of forcing your pet to come to you…
…go to them.
Most importantly, get down on your pet’s level. Sit on the floor or lie on your belly and remember to shoot from your pet’s eye level or below.
We all know how a dog looks when viewed from above; this is the way we always see them.
Instead, show us how your pet sees the world!
4. Highlight your pet’s character
You know your pet better than anyone else, and a successful picture is one that conveys the character of its subject.
So try to display your pet’s character in your photos.
If you have a lazy cat, show them yawning. If your animal is of the playful type, show them in action performing their favorite trick.
Really, the opportunities are endless! Just ask yourself: What is special about my pet?
And then try to communicate that in your next photo!
5. Go macro
Macro pet photography is intimate and often stunning.
And it’s not tough to do, either.
Simply use a macro lens, a telephoto lens, or some type of close-focusing camera.
Then fill the frame with your pet’s face and fur!
You’ll soon find that close-up shots make some of the best pet portraits!
6. Surprise your pet
One of the most difficult aspects of pet photography is keeping your pet still.
(Especially if you have a pretty energetic pet…)
So here’s an easy trick:
First, let your pet play quietly.
Then, once you have your camera set up and ready, give a quick whistle.
This will surprise your pet. With luck, you’ll have a few seconds to capture them in a nice, alert posture!
7. Time your session carefully
If you want to capture some formal-looking pet photography, then “schedule” your photoshoot when your animal is somewhat sleepy.
You might shoot after your pet has woken up from a nap. Or you might shoot late in the day, when your pet is tired and lacks energy.
That way, it will be much easier to capture a sharp shot.
Of course, if you want a more dynamic series of shots, then grab your camera at a time when your pet is especially active!
8. Be patient
Pet photography requires a lot of patience.
Dogs, cats, and other pets can be pretty excitable – but if you’re patient enough, your furry friend will end up relaxing.
And that’s when you can get some of your best shots!
In fact, you might consider starting your photoshoot with action images.
Then, as your pet calms down, you can capture intimate close-ups, cute poses, and more.
9. Experiment
Here’s your final pet photography tip:
Experiment!
Because while the advice in this article will certainly get you some great shots…
…there’s always room to try new things!
So take your time and enjoy the session. Don’t be afraid to test different approaches, angles, and compositions.
Shoot a lot; you can worry about the results later!
Pet photography tips: Final words
Hopefully, you now feel well-equipped to capture some stunning pet photos!
By getting low, being patient, carefully timing your session, and more, you can practically guarantee gorgeous results.
Now over to you:
What pets do you like to photograph? Share your favorite pet photography in the comments below!
This guest post on pet photography was submitted by Antoine Khater at All Day I Dream About Photography.Read more unique photography and retouching tips on Antoine’s website or subscribe to his RSS feed.
Table of contents
Pet Photography
GENERAL
9 Pet Photography Tips
1. Use natural light
2. Keep the eyes sharp
3. Go to your pet
4. Highlight your pet’s character
5. Go macro
6. Surprise your pet
7. Time your session carefully
8. Be patient
9. Experiment
Pet photography tips: Final words
1. Use natural light
2. Keep the eyes sharp
3. Go to your pet
4. Highlight your pet’s character
5. Go macro
6. Surprise your pet
7. Time your session carefully
8. Be patient
9. Experiment
Pet photography tips: Final words
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
Beginner's Guide to Photographing Horses
Why Taking Pictures of Your Pets Will Help Make You a Better Photographer
How to get the Money Shot in Pet Photography
What Are Your Pet Photography Peeves?
PREPARATION
6 Tips for Working with Unruly Animals in Pet Photography
LIGHTING
Tips for Great Lighting for Pet Photography
GEAR
4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography
Pros and Cons of Photographing Dogs with a Prime Lens
CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
Five Tips for Creative Pet Photography
10 Amazing Camera Hacks for Better Dog Photography
POST-PROCESSING
Fixing Animal Eyes in Lightroom
BUSINESS
Five Things You Need to Know Before Starting a Pet Photography Business
ADVANCED GUIDES
6 Tips for Photographing Dogs in Action
How to Shoot Animal Portraits
How to Photograph Agility Events and Other Dog Sports
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The post 9 Pet Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.
The post 12 Tips for Beautiful Long Exposure Night Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
Long exposure night photography can seem tough.
But it doesn’t have to be.
Because there are a few simple tricks you can use…
…that’ll ensure you get great long exposures, consistently.
And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to give you 12 easy tips for long exposure night photos. Specifically, I’ll tell you:
Every piece of gear you need for pro-level night photography
The simple secrets for keeping your long exposure shots sharp
The best time of day to capture long exposure night photos (hint: It’s not at all what you’d expect!)
Plus a whole lot more.
Are you’re ready to become a master of long exposure night photography?
Let’s get started.
1. Scout your location ahead of time
Most photographers think that scouting is overkill.
But here’s the thing:
Knowing where the best locations are for night photography ahead of time can pay huge dividends.
It means you won’t have to work out where to set up when you arrive.
(And setting up is very stressful if you can’t find a spot and the sun is sinking rapidly!)
If you can, scout your location at the same time of day you plan on shooting. This will give you a good idea of what lighting to expect.
Have a good look around the area. And ask yourself:
Will there be any trees or obstacles blocking my view? Are there any lights in the vicinity – such as streetlights or floodlights – that will affect my images?
When choosing your location, also look for sources of movement, including:
Crowds of people
Cars that create dramatic light trails
Boats skimming across the water
Why?
Because movement is great for long exposure photos!
In this photo of the Royal Queensland Show, both lights and people are creating a sense of movement.
If you’re not able to scout a location beforehand, consider your options.
For instance, you can turn up an hour or two before sunset to find the best location.
Or you can research the location by looking through social media. This will give you ideas for potential locations – including what they look like at night.
To learn more about the virtual scouting process, check out this article: Top Tips for Photographing the Best a City has to Offer in 48 Hours.
2. Consider taking multiple shots
Once you’ve determined your shooting location, here’s what to think about next:
Whether you will move your camera and tripod around on the shoot (changing locations, capturing different compositions, and/or using different focal lengths), or whether you will take a series of images that are exactly the same (perhaps for blending in Photoshop).
If you’ve decided on the latter, it can be worth taking a second camera and tripod with you; that way, you can take additional shots and make the most of your trip.
3. Use a checklist to pack your gear
Night photography requires a lot of equipment.
So before you go out to shoot, I highly recommend you create a checklist for packing your kit.
This is a great memory aid and will ensure that you don’t forget anything. Here are some of the things I have on my gear checklist:
Cameras and lenses
Fully-charged camera battery. If you’re capturing multiple images of the same scene to blend in Photoshop, you will have a very hard time lining them all up later on if you have to move your camera to change batteries.
Spare batteries
One or two tripods
Tripod base plates (these small rectangular bits of kit can be the difference between a successful shoot and a disaster!)
SD cards. Make sure you have a formatted card in your camera ready to go, as well as spares.
Water and snacks
Wireless headphones. Often, I’ll be in the same location taking images for several hours. If there’s not a fellow photographer to chat with, I listen to podcasts or music.
4. Set up early and be mindful of others
Try to arrive early so you can set up and be prepared at your preferred location.
When you set up your camera and tripod, be mindful of pedestrians, cyclists, and traffic in the area. Don’t place your gear where it will obstruct paths or where people could trip over it.
Always make sure your gear is not in the way of others during a night shoot in a busy area.
5. Shoot during blue hour for the best skies
If you want to create the most striking long exposure night photography, then I highly recommend you shoot during blue hour.
Specifically, start capturing images as the sun is setting, and keep photographing until all the color has drained from the sky.
That’s how you’ll get images with drama, like the one below:
The best time to take night photos is when there is still color in the sky!
6. Use a tripod
You must use a tripod for sharp long exposure night photography.
Otherwise, your photos will be full of blur.
I bought a Manfrotto tripod in 2005, and it’s still going strong! I also have a smaller, lighter MeFoto tripod for travel.
Owning several tripod quick release plates is also a good idea. That way, you can detach your camera from the tripod whenever you need (and stick it back on quickly, as well!).
A good-quality tripod is a solid investment for long exposure night photographers.
7. Turn on your camera’s electronic level
Most cameras have a built-in guide or electronic level.
If your camera has one, then turn it on.
Why is an electronic level useful?
It’ll let you know if your camera is crooked, just like an old-fashioned spirit level. And you can adjust your camera so that every single image comes back straight.
(On my Fujifilm X cameras, this is a horizontal line across the screen that turns green when the camera is level.)
Of course, you can always straighten the horizon in a program such as Lightroom or Photoshop.
But this can get annoying, especially if it’s a frequent problem.
So find the electronic level, and make sure it’s active before you start shooting.
8. Use a remote release
When taking long exposures, you must minimize any movement of the camera during an exposure.
Which means that you cannot press the shutter button.
Why?
No matter how careful you are, when you tap the shutter, you may create camera shake. And end up with blurry images.
One way to avoid camera shake is to use a remote release. These are small accessories that plug into a socket on the side of your camera, allowing you to trigger the shutter without pressing the shutter button.
Many camera companies also have a smartphone app you can use to activate the shutter of your camera.
You can trigger many cameras via an app.
9. Use the self-timer feature
Here’s a second way for you to minimize camera movement during an exposure:
Use your camera’s self-timer feature. I actually prefer this method of hitting the shutter button for two reasons:
I usually take two cameras on shoots, so using a smartphone app is not an option since it can only connect to one camera at a time.
The two cameras I take use different types of remote releases, and I’d rather not have to remember to bring both of those accessories.
Instead, I recommend you set up a two-second self-timer delay in advance. That way, you can hit the shutter button, wait for any vibrations to fade, then get a tack-sharp shot.
(Just remember to deactivate the self-timer feature after the shoot is over!)
The self-timer feature is a great way to minimize camera shake.
10. Try interval shooting for great results
Do you want to capture the beauty of a scene over a long period of time?
Try interval shooting.
With interval shooting, you can fire off photos with a set time interval (so you capture one photo every two minutes, for example).
I set my camera to take a photo every two minutes during the early part of my shoots, then – when the light starts to get interesting and the city lights come on – I set my camera to take a photo ever 20 or 30 seconds.
You can also set this feature to stop after a certain number of exposures.
Handy, right?
Interval shooting essentially sets your camera on autopilot, leaving you free to take images with a second camera.
Just be careful not to bump or move your main camera when adjusting settings during your shoot.
11. Turn off image stabilization
If you want sharp long exposure photos, you must turn off camera and lens image stabilization.
Now, you’re probably thinking:
What? Image stabilization makes photos sharper, not blurry!
And you’re right…
…mostly.
But remember:
You should always use a tripod for long exposure night photography.
And when image stabilization meets a tripod, it causes problems. You see, your tripod should be completely still, yet your image stabilization technology will often move your camera and/or lens slightly – resulting in unwanted blur.
Some newer lenses can sense when a camera is mounted on a tripod and turn off image stabilization automatically.
But I recommend you check, just to be sure.
12. Always stay safe!
This is of paramount importance when taking photos at night.
Always be aware of your surroundings and pay attention to who is nearby. I usually have my bag zipped up and next to me at all times.
Often, I put one of my bag straps around my leg so no one can try to run off with my kit.
And while I take wireless headphones, I would only ever use them in busy locations where I feel safe.
Always be aware of your surroundings when shooting in remote places or late at night.
Long exposure night photography: Final words
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to long exposure night photography.
While shooting at night may seem difficult, with some extra thought and planning, you’ll capture some stunning images!
Of course, the best way to improve your photography is to get out there and practice as much as you can.
Now over to you:
Which of these long exposure night photography tips is your favorite? Which one do you plan to use the next time you’re out shooting? Let me know in the comments below!
The post 12 Tips for Beautiful Long Exposure Night Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.
The post 7 Tips – How to Add Depth and Dimension into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
How can you add depth in photography? And how can you make your photos look stunningly three-dimensional?
Depth helps create a sense of place, and it draws the viewer into your images. Plus, it’s a great way to take your compositions to the next level, fast.
In this article, you’ll find seven techniques and tips, all designed to help you convey a stronger sense of depth in your photos.
Let’s get started!
1. Use leading lines
Here’s one of the easiest ways to convey depth in photography:
Use a wide-angle lens and include leading lines that move from the bottom of the frame to the top.
This technique is mainly used in landscape and architectural photos, but you can also incorporate leading lines into portraits, street shots, and more.
The lines don’t have to be obvious. For instance, take a look at this photo:
The rocks form natural lines that lead the eye from the foreground to the island on the horizon.
This photo has a similarly subtle set of leading lines:
The waterways in the middle distance lead the eye to the mountains. But the lines are meandering, rather than straight, which helps give the image a more organic feel – one that fits well with the theme of the landscape.
2. Use perspective
This photo demonstrates how lines can add depth in a different way:
The buildings form converging lines that disappear towards the horizon, creating an effective sense of depth.
Note that this technique is similar to an artist’s use of perspective. I’ve added an overlay so you can see how it works:
3. Think foreground, middle ground, and background
Most photographers are familiar with the rule of thirds, but when it comes to conveying a sense of depth, it is helpful to break the photo up into a different set of thirds:
The foreground, middle ground, and background.
What you’re looking for is a way of connecting each portion of the photo while pulling the viewer’s eye from foreground to background. Having three zones in the image – zones that are distinct but linked – will help create a sense of depth and three-dimensionality.
Leading lines are one way of linking the three zones, but lines are not always present in a scene. So when there are no lines to be found, you’ll need to work with some other compositional element.
Often, this simply means including something interesting in the foreground.
For example, in the photo below, there are some buildings in the background, a concrete jetty in the middle ground, and the edge of another jetty in the foreground. I included the foreground jetty to help create a sense of depth.
Here’s another example:
Do you see how adding the rocks to the foreground creates a composition with three distinct zones (foreground, middle ground, and background)?
And once the zones are present, you get a sense of depth, with the viewer’s eye moving through the shot.
It helps that the wide-angle lens makes the rocks seem quite large in comparison to the distant cliffs.
4. Use aerial perspective
Another technique that helps convey a sense of depth in photography is aerial (or atmospheric) perspective.
This is where the atmospheric conditions make objects in the distance appear hazy.
Of course, you’re often limited by the environmental conditions – but as soon as you see haze in the distance, I highly recommend you try to find a way to include it in your composition.
In the photo below, you can see that the trees in the distance on the left side are obscured by atmospheric haze, which adds depth:
And the depth is further enhanced by the converging lines formed by the walls. So the two techniques actually work together to give increased depth to the final shot:
5. Shoot through a foreground object
The techniques I’ve shared above work well with wide-angle lenses, but are less helpful if you’re using telephoto lenses.
You see, telephoto lenses put distance between you and your subject, which leads to a flatter perspective overall (i.e., a perspective with less depth).
That said, there are still some techniques you can use with telephoto lenses to create a sense of depth.
One method is to shoot through something that is between you and the subject (such as grass, twigs, or windows).
In the photo below, the subject is the setting sun. I shot through the grass (and I actually focused on the grass, throwing the sun slightly out of focus) to add a sense of depth to what otherwise would have been a very flat image.
You can also use this technique with portraits. I created the portrait below by shooting through the branches of a tree:
So the next time you’re shooting a subject with a telephoto lens, look around for objects to shoot through. I guarantee you’ll find an object or two – which you can then use to create depth!
6. Use selective focus
Selective focus is a technique where you deliberately set a wide aperture and focus on the subject (and create a blurry background in the process).
It’s especially effective with portraits, as the blur helps separate the model from the background – and ultimately creates a sense of depth.
The following portrait was taken at f/2.0 with the lens focused on the model’s eyes:
Do you see how the blurry background and the sharp subject creates a three-dimensional image?
That’s the power of selective focus!
7. Convey depth through color
Here’s a question to ask yourself:
What happens to colors in the background when you use a selective focus technique (as discussed in the previous tip)?
You see, when the background is out of focus, colors merge into each other.
And if you arrange your colors carefully, you can achieve a nice contrast between the colors in the background and those on the subject.
What does this do?
It conveys depth!
For example, check out the colors in this portrait:
The background is nearly white, whereas the man’s sweater and hair is a darker red; this separates him from the background.
In fact, you can take this idea to its extreme by using an off-camera flash fitted with an orange gel. When you do this, the model will be lit by orange light (from the gelled flash), but the background will be lit by colder ambient light.
(This technique works well at dusk when the ambient light has a natural blue color.)
Ultimately, you’ll get a nice contrast between the warmer model and the cooler background. For the example below, the model was lit by a single speedlight fitted with a 60 cm softbox and an orange gel.
How to add dimension and depth in photography: Conclusion
Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be well-prepared to create photos with plenty of depth and dimension!
So go out and practice some of the techniques I’ve discussed.
Now over to you:
What other ideas do you have for creating and adding depth in photography? Please let us know in the comments below!
The post 7 Tips – How to Add Depth and Dimension into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
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