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11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography

08 Aug

The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Candid photography is a great way to capture intimate, honest photos – the type of images that tell real stories about their subjects.

But how can you capture beautiful candid photos? How can you create candid shots that you can be proud of?

In this article, I share 11 tips to take your candid photos to the next level. Note that these tips are not about taking sneaky, voyeuristic, or true paparazzi shots. Instead, they’ll help you add an authentic, candid feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, images at events, and more.

Let’s get started.

1. Take your camera everywhere

The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.

When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.

Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.

2. Use a long focal length

To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens widely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.

That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.

3. Kill the flash

Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.

So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.

You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.

4. Take a lot of shots

Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.

In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.

So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.

5. Position yourself strategically

While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.

So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?

If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.

6. Photograph people doing things

Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.

For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of story (and these elements takes their focus off you!).

Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.

Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.

7. Photograph people with people

When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:

You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.

Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.

candid photography tips man and woman dancing

8. Shoot from the hip

Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:

Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm.

Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting.

Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.

And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.

This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.

9. Change your perspective

Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?

For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).

Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but you feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all), try shooting from the hip (as discussed in the previous tip). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.

10. Frame images with foreground elements

If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, etc.

Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.

The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.

11. Take posed shots into candid territory

It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.

Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.

I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.

By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.

Candid photography tips: final words

Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful candid shots of your own!

So grab your camera, remember these tips, and have fun shooting.

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for candid photography? How do you capture those beautiful candid moments while photographing unnoticed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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10 Tips for Beautiful Smartphone Landscape Photography

05 Aug

The post 10 Tips for Beautiful Smartphone Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

10 tips for beautiful smartphone landscape photos

You’ve likely heard this before: The best camera is the one you have with you. Trite, but absolutely true. The high-end DSLR or mirrorless camera you might own is totally worthless if it’s sitting in your car, your hotel room, or your home when a great photo opportunity presents itself.

On the other hand, we almost always have a smartphone on hand, and their photo capabilities continue to improve by leaps and bounds. So if you want to capture stunning landscapes, why not learn to take better photos with the camera you always have with you? Why not learn to do smartphone landscape photography?

smartphone landscape photography of a beach — My current Android smartphone (an LG V30 H931) may not have the best camera, but it’s often the best camera I have with me, and that’s what counts. All the photos in this article are smartphone images, often made on my V30.

More than a few times, I’ve chatted with talented photographers who scoff at the idea of serious photography with a smartphone. Knowing I shoot both phone and dedicated camera images, they sometimes admire an image I’ve made, but then ask, “Did you take that with your real camera?”

My “real camera?” Why do some think a smartphone camera isn’t real, or that a person that shoots with one isn’t a real photographer?

I would argue that if you make a nice image, it doesn’t matter what you use to make it. Has anyone ever looked at a da Vinci painting and asked whether he painted it with a real brush?

mountains with storm clouds — This truly is “drive-by shooting,” as I snapped it out the car window while racing down the road. My DSLR was still stashed in my backpack.

The fact is that most modern smartphone cameras have far better specs than DSLRs from a decade ago. Sure, certain factors favor DSLRs, such as the greater control, the ability to use interchangeable lenses, and the larger sensor size. But the idea that you can’t make great images with a smartphone camera? Hogwash, I say!

So let’s give you 10 tips on how you can get better images when doing smartphone landscape photography.

trees and windmill at sunset — I’ve photographed this windmill before, so upon witnessing the sunset while driving home, I raced for the spot with the only camera I had with me: my smartphone.

1. Make photographs, don’t take snapshots

To be a better photographer, you must move beyond the idea that you “take” a photo. Ansel Adams said it succinctly:

“You don’t take a photograph, you make it.”

What’s the difference? The idea is that you think about what you’re trying to communicate with your photo, then do everything you can to include that, and only that, in your shot. Another way to put it: Snapshots are taken by people who just point and click. Photographs are made by artists who give thought to the image they are creating.

Ultimately, it doesn’t matter what instrument you use, smartphone or high-end digital camera. What counts is the thought you put into your work. You generally won’t need to make a landscape photograph in a hurry, so slow down and think about what you’re doing.

If you only take one tip from this article, make sure it’s this one. Your smartphone landscape photography will be far ahead of the rest of the happy snappers who just point and shoot.

waterfall with flowers smartphone landscape photography — I’d driven past this location many times and had already visualized the image in my head. So one day, I just had to stop, pull out my smartphone, and record the photo.

2. Compose, then expose

wheat field at sunset — Getting down in the wheat field with the stalks just inches from the smartphone lens gave an immersive feel to this image. Smartphone optics are good for this kind of thing!

Composition is king in photography, no matter your camera.

So study compositional techniques such as the rule of thirds. Use the thirds grid on your smartphone to assist you. Do “border patrol” of your shot, looking for distracting elements around the edges of the frame.

Consider whether you should use portrait (vertical) or landscape (horizontal) mode for the shot. Just because you typically hold your phone vertically doesn’t mean you should always take photos that way. In fact, most landscape images benefit from a landscape mode composition. (Guess that’s why they call it that, huh?)

barn on a hillside — Composition is still king in smartphone landscape photography. Note how the horizon is on the top third line and the barn sits at the power-point intersection of the right third line: the rule of thirds at work.

Of course, sometimes portrait mode is better suited for a shot. Thanks to their small sensors and wide lenses, smartphones feature excellent depth of field, which can make for beautiful near/far images (with everything sharp from foreground to horizon).

beach in the afternoon — To emphasize the height of the cliffs and the stretch of the coastline, I decided that portrait mode was the proper orientation for this shot.

Note that creating such an expansive depth of field would require an ultra-narrow aperture – or even a focus stack – on a DSLR. But on a smartphone camera, it requires nothing extra.

rock textures — With a 1.78mm lens, even an f-stop of f/1.9 gives a huge depth of field, spanning from inches away from the lens to infinity.

3. Seek the light

Since we have our smartphones with us most of the time, we can make photos whenever we like. But images in midday sun usually won’t look great no matter what camera you use. Nice light is always going to make for a better photo.

So if you can do your smartphone landscape photography in the early morning or late evening – the “magic hours” – you’ll almost always end up with more dramatic images.

sunset at a park — This location at a local park is nothing special during the day. With a night sunset, however, it makes for great silhouettes. Seek the light!

Modern smartphone cameras have also become much better at low-light shooting, so don’t overlook the possibility of night photos.

4. Take control of your settings

Beginning photographers, even with higher-end cameras, often stick to the simplicity of automatic modes and let the camera determine the focus, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance.

Yet while early smartphone cameras offered no option for manual control, many modern smartphone cameras now offer full manual control over settings. You can also find apps that expand your camera control, such as A Better Camera for Android-based phones or Camera+ 2 for iPhones.

By taking control of your camera settings, you can create better landscape photos – so make sure to explore these options, even if you currently feel more comfortable with your smartphone’s Auto mode.

5. Use all available lenses

huge trees in a forest — My smartphone has two cameras, one with a wider angle of view than the other. Some newer smartphones now have four cameras on the back, a response to the lack of interchangeable lenses.

It used to be that a distinct advantage of standard cameras over smartphone cameras was lens interchangeability. A smartphone had one lens with a fixed focal length, no optical zoom, and a set aperture.

But look at the back of a modern smartphone, and you’ll see multiple cameras. An iPhone 12 Pro Max features three cameras, while a Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra sports four. There’s also the selfie-cam on the front, but that’s not one you’re likely to use for landscape photography.

trees on a sunny day — Go wide and go vertical, a great way to emphasize these towering redwoods.

If you have additional lenses, take advantage of them! On the other hand, don’t use digital zoom. Sure, it might seem easy to “zoom” into a composition with a simple touch of the screen, but you’re actually just cropping the image and losing resolution in the process.

I’d also discourage clip-on lenses for smartphones. These are always fiddly to work with and almost never produce quality images. Save your money. If you need a more versatile lens than your smartphone but still want something pocketable, check out some of the great point-and-shoot cameras that have superzooms and good specs.

6. Three legs are better than none

As a mostly landscape photographer, I shoot from a tripod about 85% of the time. However, I often see other landscape photographers happily working away with no tripod in sight.

Yes, lens and IBIS (in-body image stabilization) has brought us a long way, and if the light permits, a fast shutter speed might negate the advantage of a tripod. Still, I firmly believe that using a tripod will improve your landscape photography.

waterfall long exposure — You need three legs to make this shot. A four-second exposure requires the steadiness of a tripod and manual control of your smartphone camera.

But being a tripod-evangelist isn’t an easy assignment. People don’t want to be bothered. Now try convincing smartphone photographers they should use a tripod!

Yet I’ve got to say it: A tripod does have a place in smartphone landscape photography. When the light is low and your shutter speed gets longer, being able to keep the camera still is the difference between a fuzzy shot and a tack-sharp shot. Add the ability to take really long exposures (yes, many smartphone cameras can now do this), and a tripod can sometimes make a lot of sense.

There is one good thing, however: you don’t need a big tripod for your tiny cellphone. Pocketable tripods can do the trick; couple one with a Bluetooth remote trigger, and you can do multi-second exposures with your smartphone. Joby, the company that invented the GorillaPod, is a good place to look.

By the way, if you’re going to be using your standard tripod with your smartphone, a smartphone adapter is a good addition to your bag.

7. You’re not done until you’ve edited

Some photographers believe you should get your image right in-camera so you don’t have to edit. They don’t like to edit their images, ever.

I disagree.

Whether taken with a regular camera or a smartphone, almost any shot can be made better with some editing. You will often want to crop, adjust exposure, and perhaps go even further. Fortunately, there are excellent editing apps for smartphones, and they’re often free.

My absolute favorite is Snapseed. It’s available for both Android and iPhone and is completely free. It’s very easy to learn, has a nice array of tools, and it is rare that any smartphone image I consider a keeper does not get the Snapseed treatment.

There are many other great smartphone editing apps, though. Adobe Lightroom has a mobile version that is very good. Some may argue that the whole idea of smartphone photography is “quick and easy photography” and therefore balk at editing. I get it, but I still think that almost any image can be improved with some fine-tuning.

before and after editing — You’re not done until you edit! The top shot is straight out of the smartphone camera. The bottom version is edited with Snapseed. You can almost always improve a photo with a little editing.

8. Got a backup? Make one!

With standard cameras, we typically have image files stored on a card in the camera. Remove that card, copy the files to the computer, and make a backup – that’s the standard workflow.

Shooting with a smartphone, however, the images are stored in internal memory and sometimes on a micro SD card in the phone. You can connect your phone to your computer or plug in the micro SD card, but who does that? Most people just let the images stay on their phone. Which is fine, until your phone crashes, the storage is corrupted, or you break or lose your phone.

Now, what if your images were backed up to the cloud – as soon as you shot them? Not only would you have a backup, you’d have the images in a place where they could be easily shared to social media, emailed, whatever you prefer. There are many apps that will do this, but as an Android user, I look no further than Google Photos. iPhone users can also use Google Photos, but might instead opt for iCloud.

motorcycle on the road — I don’t like carrying my regular camera on a dirt bike ride, but my smartphone camera? Yup, it’s the one that’s always with me. As long as I’m in range of a cell tower, my photos are immediately backed up as soon as I shoot them.

Whatever option you choose, the idea is to have an app that immediately and automatically syncs your smartphone images to the cloud for safe backup.

9. Use GPS data to track your photo locations

Almost all smartphones will embed the GPS coordinates of a photo in the EXIF data. Bring up a photo, and in many apps, you will be able to see exactly when and where that photo was made. Some apps will also present pins on a map showing where a collection of photos was shot. If you decide you want to go back to that spot, it’s easy to find it again.

Oregon Secret Beach — They call this beautiful spot on the Oregon coast “Secret Beach,” but even though it’s not signed, enough people have posted GPS-tagged images of it online that it’s not much of a secret anymore.

There is a downside to photos being tagged with GPS data. If you post a GPS-tagged image on social media, viewers can determine exactly where the photo was taken. This has caused an ethical dilemma for landscape photographers. Places that used to be known only to a few are now known widely. Photographers seeing a great photo online often think, “I want to go to that spot, too!” The problem is that beautiful places are being overrun, trampled down, littered, and even vandalized by unscrupulous people. Some places are now closed off because they were “loved to death” by the crowds who discovered them online.

So as an ethical landscape photographer, you may wish to consider stripping off the GPS data from your images before posting. It may not be necessary for the most well-known spots, as people already know where those are. But if you find a really great waterfall way up a mountain trail, consider keeping it a secret. Not only will you have an exclusive shot, but you’ll prevent hordes of people from descending upon it.

GPS data for a lighthouse image — Take a look at a GPS-tagged photo with Google Maps or Lightroom, and you can see right where the photo was taken. The Portland Head lighthouse isn’t much of a secret, but think twice before posting GPS-tagged photos.

10. Previsualize with your smartphone camera

When out on a landscape photo outing, I almost always have my smartphone in my pocket and my main camera and equipment in a backpack. Often, I will use the smartphone as a tool to previsualize and help compose a shot. I’ll make some photos, consider my vantage point, and then determine if I even want to set up my tripod and bring out my other gear. This has several advantages.

bristlecone pines in California smartphone landscape photography — These bristlecone pines in the White Mountains of California are the oldest living things on earth (over 5,000 years old!). I wasn’t going to forget my DSLR when I went to shoot them, but I first did these previsualization shots with my smartphone.

If the shot doesn’t have merit, I will move on, not even going to the trouble of bringing out my DSLR. On the other hand, if it is a good shot, I will have captured GPS data, plus I’ll have a smartphone image that will be uploaded to the cloud.

And here’s the kicker: Occasionally, my smartphone shot will be better than what I later shoot with my DSLR. There have been times when, with changing light, the first capture is best. Sometimes the smartphone camera will process the image as a JPEG and achieve better results than I get when editing the RAW file from my main camera. There have also been times when I didn’t bother to shoot a DSLR photo – the smartphone shot was all I took – and was later happy I did because it turned out great.

black and white rock formations — We left the cameras in the car and hiked down to the shore of Mono Lake to check out the tufa formations. Good thing I had my smartphone camera, as this rain squall passed over the island in the distance. By the time I got back with my DSLR, the shot was gone.

smartphone landscape panorama — Here’s a shot using the sweep panorama feature within my smartphone that automatically stitches the images together.

panorama of the ocean — Want a really big pano with your smartphone? Shoot a series of vertical shots (maybe 20 or so) and let a smartphone app like Bimostitch assemble them. The finished image of this 180-degree panorama is 6227×2753 pixels.

11. Try shooting in RAW

The article title promised 10 tips, but I’m going to throw in this 11th item, just for free! Really, it’s not so much a tip as something for you to explore.

Many newer smartphone cameras can now shoot in RAW format. My current LG V30 does this, and I have successfully brought its DNGs into Lightroom for editing.

That said, I often find that the additional work this requires (plus the huge file sizes and the drawback of not having an easily uploadable JPEG) makes RAW smartphone shooting too much of a hassle. AIso, I’m usually hard-pressed to edit a RAW file into a better image than a JPEG.

flowers with water droplets — Many smartphones excel at macro shots. I could have shot this in a RAW format, but I doubt I could’ve processed it any better than this JPEG. If the smartphone can do a better job, why go to the extra work of shooting RAW? (Note: I did edit the JPEG with Snapseed.)

If your smartphone can shoot in RAW, give it a test and see what you think. I typically advocate shooting in RAW, but if the end result isn’t any better, why do it?

Smartphone landscape photography tips: conclusion

I’d never tell you to sell your dedicated camera and shoot only with a smartphone. As a dedicated photography tool, your DSLR or mirrorless camera should generally be capable of making superior images, especially if you’ll be printing large. But smartphone cameras get better with every generation, and it’s become impossible to dismiss them as not “real cameras.” As has been the case since the early days of film, it is the photographer, not the camera, that makes a great photograph.

Of course, practice makes perfect. If using the camera you have with you causes you to take more photos and get the shot you otherwise would have missed, then by all means, start doing more smartphone landscape photography!

Smartphone landscape photography FAQs

Is my smartphone camera adequate for doing quality landscape photography?

Most likely. Some believe a smartphone is not a “real camera,” but modern smartphone cameras are now more sophisticated than the DSLRs of just a few years ago. Unless your intent is to make large prints, your smartphone images will be more than adequate for most purposes.

What is the most important thing to remember in smartphone landscape photography?

The answer is the same for any kind of photography, regardless of what kind of camera you use: composition is king. Take the time to frame up your image using the standard rules of good composition, and your shots will automatically be better than those of the “happy snappers” who just point and shoot.

What should I do to take my smartphone landscape photography up a notch?

Learn to use the manual controls of your smartphone camera. These may be built in, or you may need an app, but just as serious photographers using standard cameras learn to work in manual modes, you should learn to do the same with your smartphone camera.

What else can I do to make better smartphone landscape photos?

Edit your images. Many smartphone photographers think they’re done when they click the shutter, but almost any photograph can be improved with some editing. For smartphone photography, Snapseed is a great place to start.

The post 10 Tips for Beautiful Smartphone Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

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5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)

01 Aug

The post 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Melinda Smith.

If you’re looking to capture beautiful, flattering musician portraits – the kind that every musician will appreciate – you’ve come to the right place.

As an experienced portrait photographer, I’ve done quite a few musician photoshoots. And over time, I’ve picked up some tips that will make a huge difference to your photography.

Specifically, I’m going to explain:

How to ensure you create natural, realistic portraits of musicians
Some unorthodox image ideas that musicians will really appreciate
Quick research you should do before the session to make sure you’re prepared
Much, much more!

Let’s get started.

1. Trust the musician (and ask lots of questions)

As a musician myself, I love photographs with gorgeous instruments in them – but I am especially bothered by photos that don’t capture those instruments naturally. Sometimes I’ll come across a photo that makes me cry out, “Why? Nobody would ever hold their instrument like that!”

Because here’s the thing: You can still be creative with your photos without making them awkward. There are plenty of easy ways to capture stunning musician portraits, and you don’t need to rely on ridiculous posing gimmicks (like a flute on top of the head, cellos held under the chin, etc.).

And it all starts with trusting the musician, especially if you’re not familiar with the instrument you’re photographing.

So start your session by asking your subject how they hold their instrument. You might ask how they hold their instrument while playing, and how they hold it when they’re relaxing between songs. If it’s a big instrument, like a piano, ask them how they stand next to it before they perform, or how they sit by it when they’re thinking about what to practice or while waiting to play. If it’s a small instrument, like a violin, ask them to demonstrate how they carry it from one place to another.

These might seem like silly questions, but you can really get a sense of what positions and holds are natural. Then you can build from there.

As an example, a violinist may tell you she holds her violin under her right arm when resting. So you could ask her to sit on a chair in a formal pose, position the violin under her arm, and get a beautiful portrait of a girl and her violin.

The key is to remember that the musician knows how to naturally pose with their instrument, and that you are much less familiar. Of course, if you do happen to know the instrument well, feel free to use your knowledge to get beautiful natural poses, too.

2. Do your homework

While I definitely recommend asking the musician how they hold their instrument (it can vary slightly from musician to musician, after all), you can take steps ahead of time to become knowledgeable (that way, you can start thinking of posing ideas before the session even starts).

For instance, you could watch some videos on YouTube of a musician playing the instrument you’ll be photographing. Pay careful attention to how the musician sits/stands, as well as how they position their head and hands relative to the instrument.

You might also find a professional musician who plays the same instrument, then look at their website to see what kind of photos they feature.

You may have a client who is very shy and needs more guidance posing, so it’s helpful to have a few ideas in mind ahead of time.

Also, as part of your research process, look at photos of the instrument (and do a bit of reading on instrument care, as well). Consider challenges that it might bring, such as unwanted reflections in brass, the immobility of harps or pianos, sensitivity to temperature or weather, and so on. Then make a plan to counteract these issues; that way, neither you nor the musician feel uncomfortable or uncertain during the session.

3. Ask the musician to play for you

Posed musician photography is nice…

…but if you can get your subject to give you a little performance during the photo session, you’ll get some stunning action shots. It usually helps loosen your subject up a little bit too, and will bring out natural smiles.

Some musicians are self-conscious, especially when playing without preparation. So remind them that it doesn’t matter if they make mistakes; your camera won’t catch any audio. Emphasize that you’ll only capture the perfect physical movements of their playing. And remind your subject that you aren’t there to judge their skill. You just want to capture the relationship they have with their instrument.

As they begin to play, move around the scene, catching the beautiful moment from every possible angle. Get down low, try to find a higher vantage point, get in close, move back far – all of it can make for outstanding images!

portrait of a musician with a violin playing

4. Get close-ups of the action

For most musicians, hands are a big deal. After all, the hands generally play the instrument, so they’ll offer a window into the musician’s engagement with the music.

So focus on the hands. Capture some close-ups, where you zoom in close on the hands as they play. Shoot the hands from every angle: above, from the side, from down low, from behind. Try focusing on the hands as you shoot down the neck of a guitar, highlight the fingers on a flute, or shoot hands that are frozen in midair during a drum solo. Getting in close on these details can create beautiful action photos that really tell the story.

In fact, hand photos often end up being some of my very favorites (and the musicians love them, too).

Pro tip: If your subject’s hands are moving too quickly for you to focus, ask them to freeze while you get the shot, then instruct them to continue playing.

5. Make the instrument the star

With musician portraits, you’re expected to photograph the person – but I highly recommend you also capture a few photos of the instrument on its own.

Why? Well, musicians love their instruments, and they will love photos that show their beauty. (These photos often make for great website and social media cover photos, as well.)

Of course, if you need to adjust or move an instrument while shooting, be sure to ask permission. You can even ask the owner to do all of the touching and moving, while you walk around the instrument to get the photos that you’re after. Instruments can be extremely expensive, and even more importantly, they can have sentimental value that can never be compensated.

Keep this in mind throughout the session, whether your subject is in the photo with the instrument or not. And never ask the musician to do something that could harm or damage the instrument; it’s a very easy way to lose the musician’s trust, make them feel uncomfortable, and cause the session to go up in flames.

So when you’re ready to take some instrument photos, simply tell the musician what you have in mind, and they will most likely be happy to help you get some amazing instrument photos. If they’re not – or if they seem uncomfortable – don’t push it. A good photo isn’t worth upsetting your subject.

Musician portrait tips: conclusion

portrait of a musician in the grass playing guitar

Every time I’ve been asked to do musician photography for album covers, headshots for websites, art to print and frame, or just to capture someone’s favorite hobby, my goal is to create a photo that the musician will love. One that will stay true to what they would naturally do with their instruments.

And by following the tips I’ve shared, you can do the same!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you resonate with the most? Do you have any musician portrait tips of your own? Share your thoughts (and photos!) in the comments below.

Portrait Photography

GENERAL
- 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
- 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
- How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
- 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
- 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
- Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
- 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
- How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
- The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
- 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
- How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
PREPARATION
- Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
- 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
- Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
- How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
- 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
- 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
- How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
- A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
- How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
- The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
- How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
SETTINGS
- The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
- How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
- How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
- Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
- Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
- 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
- Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
- Shooting for HDR Portraiture
- How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
- How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
LIGHTING
- 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
- Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
- How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
- Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
- 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
- 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
- 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
- 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
- How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
- How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
- How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
- Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
- A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
- How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
- How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
- DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
- Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
- Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
- 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
- A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
- How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
- Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
- 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
- Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
- Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
- How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
- What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
- How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
- Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
- Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
- 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
- How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
- Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
- The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
- So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
- How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
- 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
- How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
- Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
- What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
- How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
- Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
- 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
- Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
- How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
- High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
- 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
- How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
- How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
- Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
- How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
- How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
- Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
- Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
- Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
- How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
- Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
- 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
- A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
- Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
- A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
- Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
- How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
- A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
- Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
- Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
- Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
- How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
- How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
- Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
- How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
- How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
POSING
- Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
- Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
- Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
- Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
- How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
- Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
- Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
- Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
- How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
- Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
- How to Pose People for Headshots
- Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
- 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
- How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
- Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
- Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
- Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
- Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
- Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
- Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
- 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
- What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
- Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
- Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
- A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
- Tips for Posing Men
COMPOSITION
- 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
- 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
- How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
- How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
- How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
- How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
- 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
- Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
- Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
- How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
- How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
GEAR
- Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
- Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
- 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
- Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
- 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
- Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
- Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
- Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
- Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
- How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
- Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
ADVANCED GUIDES
- 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
- Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
- 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
- 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
- 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
- Tips for Doing Fall Portraits
- 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
- 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
- How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
- Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
- Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
- Self Portrait Photography Tips
- What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
- 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
  - 1. Trust the musician (and ask lots of questions)
  - 2. Do your homework
  - 3. Ask the musician to play for you
  - 4. Get close-ups of the action
  - 5. Make the instrument the star
  - Musician portrait tips: conclusion
  - 1. Trust the musician (and ask lots of questions)
  - 2. Do your homework
  - 3. Ask the musician to play for you
  - 4. Get close-ups of the action
  - 5. Make the instrument the star
  - Musician portrait tips: conclusion
- 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
- 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
- How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
- 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
- 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
- Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
- Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
- How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
- The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
- 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
- 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
- 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
- Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
- 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
- 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
- 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
- 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
- The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
- Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
- Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
- 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
- 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
- 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
- How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
- 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
- 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
- Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
- 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
- Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
- Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
- 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
- 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
- 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
- The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
- 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
- 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
- Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
- How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
- How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
- How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
- How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
- How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
- Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
- 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
- How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
- Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
- Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
- Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
- How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
- 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
- Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
- 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
- How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
POST-PROCESSING
- 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
- Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
- How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
- How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
- How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
- How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
- Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
- 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
- How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
- Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
- How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
- How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
- How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
- How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
- How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
- Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
- How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
- Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
- How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
- Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
- 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
- How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
- 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
- Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
- 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
- Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
- How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
- Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
- 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
BUSINESS
- Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
- How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
INSPIRATION
- 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
- DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
- 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
- 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
- 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
- 18 Stunning Self Portraits
- Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
- 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
- Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
- Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
- 21 Spooky Portraits
- Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
- 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
- Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
- Triptych Portrait Series
- 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
- An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
- Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
- 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
RESOURCES
- Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
- The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
- The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
- The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
- Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
- People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

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The post 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Melinda Smith.

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12 Tips to Capture Stunning Vegetable Photography

29 Jul

The post 12 Tips to Capture Stunning Vegetable Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Are you interested in vegetable photography? Then you’ve come to the right place.

In this article, you’ll find plenty of tips and tricks for photographing vegetables; if you’re a food photography beginner, you’ll learn how to get started, and if you’re already a food photography enthusiast, you’ll discover easy ways to improve your results.

Now, I’m not a botanist or a chef, so I apologize in advance if my example photos contain food that’s not technically a vegetable. And in photography, the categories are more flexible. (If you think of the most famous vegetable photographs, you’ll probably think of Edward Weston’s Pepper series, and peppers are technically a fruit!)

In any case, feel free to use these techniques with raw produce in general: fruits, vegetables, legumes, mushrooms, etc.

Now that we got that out of the way, let’s get started.

1. Handpick your produce

selection of chili peppers on white — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/4.5 | 1/250s | ISO 100

If you were taking a professional portrait, you would cast your model, right? Well, the same should be true for vegetable photography – before getting out your camera, you need to carefully pick your “hero” subject.

If you’re photographing for commercial purposes, you might want to look for the shiniest, roundest, most perfect vegetable you can find.

However, if you’re doing a personal project or a still life, you can take some liberties. You don’t need to use the best looking product; instead, aim to find produce that looks interesting. Find a vegetable that complements the props you’re using or that features a noticeable texture, etc.

No matter what individual item you end up using, the point is that you take the time to choose. You should find a market or a store that allows you to pick the produce yourself (don’t order online!). And try to get to the store early in the day so you can have first pick of the produce. Also, avoid peak hours so that you can take your time.

Consider talking to the seller. Explain what you usually look for in products. Once you make friends, they can be of great help and may even give you some insider tips on how to treat the produce.

2. Pay careful attention to composition

The composition is the way you organize the items inside the frame. And the right composition will help the viewer navigate your picture.

There are many guidelines that can help improve vegetable photography compositions, but the most basic tip is to use the rule of thirds, which suggests that you position key elements a third of the way into the frame. And because most cameras and smartphones have a handy rule of thirds grid overlay, it’s an easy way to get started.

There are many other compositional guidelines you can follow, ranging from simple leading lines to more complex triangles and the rule of odds, so make sure you familiarize yourself with these composition tips.

3. Choose the right shutter speed, aperture, and ISO

vegetable photography tomatoes in a little bowl — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 200

Your camera settings will determine both the exposure and the final look of your photos. So while getting a correct exposure is important, you also need to consider the impact that each setting will have on your shot.

Specifically, you’ll want to think about your three primary settings: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.

A fast shutter speed is key when you have a moving element. In the case of vegetable photography, this could be a splash of water or even a hand that’s chopping the produce. Shutter speed is also helpful if you’re shooting handheld; the faster your shutter speed, the more likely you are to eliminate camera shake.

The aperture helps determine the depth of field. Smaller apertures give a deeper depth of field, while larger apertures will give you a nice background blur. Keep in mind that the focal length and the distance between the camera and the subject influence depth of field, as well.

Finally, there’s the ISO. This setting is often overlooked by beginner photographers, but a small ISO value will ensure a smooth image while a high ISO will introduce noise.

4. Change the angle of view

onions in different perspectives — Canon 70D | 42mm | f/4 | 1/100s | ISO 100

The position of the camera in relation to the subject is very important – it affects the composition, the depth of field, and it helps define what you are communicating with your picture.

There are three common angles used in food photography: down from above, table level, and a 45-degree angle that mimics the way you see food when you’re sitting down to eat. So use these as your starting points (though bear in mind that they are just guidelines, so feel free to move around until you find the perfect viewpoint.)

I advise you to get your main shot the way you initially envisioned it. Then experiment with other angles. You might happen upon a great perspective that you hadn’t considered!

5. Use color to make your photos stand out

complementary pepper colors — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/5.6 | 1/80s | ISO 100

Color can be a great way to improve your vegetable photography. The great thing about natural subjects such as vegetables is that they already have colors that work wonderfully together, so use these to your advantage. Find orange carrots with their green leaves or a colorful variety of chili peppers, then arrange them in striking compositions.

That said, you don’t necessarily need to use contrasting colors that make the subject pop – you can also go monochrome to create a mood or to help the viewer focus on shape and texture.

And you can always use the color wheel to discover new color palettes and color palette inspiration. Adobe has a wonderful tool called Adobe Color, and it’s available even if you don’t have a membership. It can even show you color trends and color palettes based on concepts and ideas.

6. Experiment with close-ups

Vegetable photography textures — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/50s | ISO 800

One of the things I enjoy most while shooting vegetables is getting up close and capturing wonderful textures and patterns.

If you’re shooting for commercial purposes, close-ups may be less feasible, but they’re great for personal projects. You don’t need lots of specialized gear, either; a macro lens is a big help, but you can also work with a telephoto or wide-angle lens and focus as close as possible.

Then, you can create your final result with some cropping in post-production. Keep in mind that you will be losing pixels with this process, so use the highest resolution camera that you have available.

7. Use light modifiers (and a tripod)

vegetable photography still life — Canon 70D | 45mm | f/8 | 1/100s | ISO 800

You can do great vegetable photography with natural light and a handheld camera. However, adding some accessories to your setup can help you achieve better results.

Light modifiers make a big difference whether you use artificial light or natural light. Use diffusers or lightboxes to soften the light and avoid hard shadows. And reflectors can bounce back the light to fill in the shadows, while flags can help you block and direct the light. All of these can be purchased for cheap, or you can DIY them.

A tripod is important when there isn’t lots of light for handholding. Plus, it can help with your compositions and special techniques like focus stacking.

8. Think about lighting direction and contrast

tomatoes in a bag — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/8 | 1/3s | ISO 100

Careful use of lighting will shape your photos the way you want them. In vegetable photography, you’ll often work with natural light, though you can also use artificial light to achieve a specific mood (or when you don’t have enough natural light available).

Either way, there are two main aspects of light you need to consider: its direction and its contrast. In other words, where is the light coming from and how harsh does the light appear?

If you want dark, defined shadows, you need hard light. If you prefer even lighting with diffused shadows, you need soft light.

As far as the lighting direction, backlighting offers many creative choices. Sidelighting helps to highlight texture and add depth. Frontal lights flatten the elements, which is great for flat-lay shots.

Feel free to experiment with different setups. And make sure you study the work of other photographers to determine what you like and how it’s done.

9. Use a complementary (or non-distracting) backdrop

artichokes with a pink backdrop — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/2.8 | 1/6s | ISO 100

As with any type of photography, the background is just as important as the subject. You should choose a background that complements the subject – or, at the very least, doesn’t distract from it.

You can’t go wrong with neutral, solid backgrounds. However, they can be a bit limiting for your creative vision. Wood backdrops are a nice match for vegetable photography, especially if you’re going for a rustic, just-harvested look. You can also use marbled tabletops or tiles if you want to create a kitchen feel.

The background will help you create the mood. Unfortunately, not everybody has the budget and the space to have a lot of backdrops at home, but you can always use printed sheets or digital backgrounds displayed on your TV or your computer.

10. Style before you shoot

many vegetables arranged together — Canon 70D | 28mm | f/8 | 1/80s | ISO 100

Styling is a big part of food photography, including vegetable photography. Even if you decide to isolate a single vegetable, that’s a styling choice, as is the decision to position it whole, chopped, peeled, etc.

If your vegetables aren’t isolated and you decide to introduce props, these will also require careful consideration. Do you want to present the food in a wicker basket or on a designer plate? Do you want to add cutlery? Do you plan to introduce a human element?

Different stylistic elements will help you to create your chosen ambiance and convey a specific message with your photos.

11. Enhance your vegetable photography with editing

If you want to really take your vegetable images to the next level, I highly recommend you do some editing.

Start by fine-tuning the composition using the Crop tool. Most programs like Photoshop or Lightroom even include some composition overlays to guide you while cropping.

You can adjust the white balance and exposure, if necessary, though I recommend you do the best you can while shooting in-camera to avoid having to fix problems in post-production.

(That said, try to shoot in RAW to maximize the amount of information you have to work with when processing.)

When editing vegetable photography, I recommend keeping it on the realistic side. Of course, you can add your own aesthetic style – by giving the file a vintage look or using warm tones to simulate the golden hour – but make sure you don’t overdo it.

One more tip: If any of your vegetables have a dent or a damaged spot that’s distracting, feel free to fix it with the Clone Stamp or Healing tools.

12. Have fun with levitation (and other special effects)

creating a levitation onion photo (before and after) — Canon 70D | 38mm | f/6.3 | 1/80s | ISO 100

If you want to spice things up in your vegetable photography, try adding some special effects.

There are different choices that you can make – for example, you can do splash photography or chiaroscuro photography – but today I’d like to talk about levitation photography.

This is really trendy right now and it looks very impressive, but it all comes down to a simple composite. I’ll give you the basic steps, and you can then make your shot as elaborate as you want.

The levitation shot

You’ll need props to hold up the vegetables and arrange them in a pleasing composition. There’s no hard rule about this as you’re going to remove the items in Photoshop later; you can use toothpicks (like I used in the example image above), or you can use threads if you want to hang the food from outside the frame.

If you’re just starting out with levitation photography, try to use a very soft light. That way, you won’t have to deal with toothpick shadows (shadows are usually the hardest part of any composite). A dark background can provide a little extra help.

Once you have all the elements where you want them, position your camera and set the exposure. Make sure you adjust your settings manually as they need to be the same in all the pictures you use for the composite.

Once you capture the first photo, take away the subject and snap a picture of the empty background (remember, the settings and focus should stay the same!). For a simple shot like the one above, you’ll only need two images, but you can always take a picture of each element to achieve a more professional result.

Editing your photo

Start by opening both images as layers in Photoshop. Make sure the image with the subject is on top. Then add a Layer Mask and grab the Brush tool. Using black, paint over the toothpicks or threads that you used to hold up the vegetables.

The mask will hide the props and reveal the empty background from the other layer, creating the levitation effect. If part of the produce is covered by a holding prop, use the Clone Stamp tool or the Healing Brush to subtly remove it.

Vegetable photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

12 tips to take your vegetable photos to the next level.

All that’s left to do now is practice – and have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to implement in your own vegetable photography? Do you have any vegetable photo tips? Share your thoughts (and photos!) in the comments below!

Vegetable photography FAQs

How do you make vegetables look fresh?

Photograph them while they’re still fresh! Keep them away from heat while you prepare the scene and maybe spritz some water on them before the shot.

Can you photograph fruit in the same way as vegetables?

Yes. The same tips and techniques apply for fresh fruits, herbs, tubers, mushrooms, vegetables, and other types of raw produce.

Is vegetable photography only about fresh produce?

The most common use of the term vegetable photography refers to raw produce – once it’s cooked, it’s normally classified as “food photography.” However, you might run into a client or a photographer who also includes cooked vegetables in the “vegetable photography” category.

Is vegetable photography a kind of still life photography?

Yes, normally vegetable photography refers to a still life composition using raw produce. Although you can also do lifestyle photography shoots with vegetables.

Can you use cooked ingredients for vegetable photography?

You can use a cooked dish as part of the composition. However, vegetable photography normally has raw produce as the main subject.

The post 12 Tips to Capture Stunning Vegetable Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography

25 Jul

The post 6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

black and white landscape photography tips

Are you looking to take your black and white landscape photography to the next level?

You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, we share six easy-to-follow tips that’ll improve your black and white landscapes; we also share plenty of examples, so you can understand exactly what goes into a good black and white photo.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

The best camera settings for black and white photography
How to enhance your b&w landscapes with filters
What to look for in a landscape scene
Much, much more!

So if you’re ready to capture black and white shots like the pros…

…then let’s get started!

1. Learn what scenes work well in black and white

When shooting in color, you can rely on the strength of hues to create drama and interest. Often, the key to good color landscape photography is to find a dramatic scene and photograph it in the most beautiful light possible. That’s why so many color landscape photos are taken during the golden hour or just after sunset.

Black and white landscape photography is very, very different. Without color, you have to work to create strong compositions. You can’t rely on color contrast and golden light; instead, you need to learn to look for the building blocks of photographic composition, such as leading lines, shapes, patterns, tonal contrast, and texture. In other words, you must learn to see in black and white.

For example, this photo works well in black and white because of the contrast between the twin waterfalls and the dark rocks:

Educate yourself about black and white landscape photography by looking at the work of masters, like Ansel Adams and Edward Weston, who worked predominantly in black and white. Also, look at what modern-day photographers are doing on Instagram and 500px. Some names to search for include Cole Thompson, Rob Dweck, Arnaud Bertrande, Thibault Roland, Joel Tjintjelaar, and Nathan Wirth.

When you look at their work, ask yourself: What makes their black and white landscape photos so dramatic and powerful? What light are they shooting in? What photographic techniques are they using? How do they approach composition? The answers will teach you a lot about black and white photography and will help you understand which elements and scenes lend themselves to black and white and which are best avoided.

2. Look for tonal contrast and texture

I touched on this in the previous tip, but I want to emphasize it here because it’s so important.

Tonal contrast is the term used to describe variations in brightness between different parts of the image. Take the photo below as an example; the jetties are dark and the sky is much lighter. That is tonal contrast. And it looks amazing in black and white.

lighthouses out at sea in black and white

The alternative – low tonal contrast – tends to look very mushy and flat. Tones don’t separate out, key elements fade into one another, and the composition loses impact. Remember: You can’t rely on changes in color to differentiate key elements, so it becomes all about the tones.

Texture (and contrast between textures) is super helpful, as well. If you think about the elements that appear in landscape photos – cliffs, rocks, grass, trees, mountains, oceans, along with human-made objects like piers, jetties, and old barns – you’ll notice that they all have distinct textures. Some feature rough, heavy textures, while others are intensely smooth.

In the photo below, the arch, the cliffs in the distance, and the rocks in the foreground are all heavily textured. The sea and the sky are much smoother. There is a strong contrast between the roughness of the rocks and the smoothness of the sea and the sky.

And thanks to that textural contrast, the photo is much more impactful!

3. Shoot in black and white mode

Did you know that your digital camera can teach you to see in black and white?

All you have to do is set it to its black and white (monochrome) mode. Your camera’s rear LCD will show you a black and white Live View feed – and if your camera includes an electronic viewfinder, it’ll turn black and white, too (you can literally look at the world in black and white – how cool is that?).

As you can imagine, constantly looking at the world through a black and white LCD or viewfinder helps you see how black and white scenes are rendered. This, in turn, makes it easier to see how a photo will turn out in black and white. And it’s also just far easier to compose black and white shots in black and white because you can see how tonal contrast, texture, lines, shapes, patterns, and light will affect the landscape.

One note, though: Don’t forget to set your camera to shoot in RAW. RAW files contain all the information captured by your camera’s sensor, including color – so if you decide you don’t like an image in black and white, you can always convert it to color and process it that way instead.

4. Learn to use neutral density filters

Neutral density filters are the secret weapon of the black and white landscape photographer. Grab one (or more) of these accessories, and you’ll be able to capture jaw-dropping images beyond your wildest dreams.

(Am I exaggerating? Honestly, I don’t think so. Neutral density filters are a huge deal.)

But what makes ND filters so special?

ND filters are basically dark pieces of glass that go in front of your lens and prevent too much light from hitting your camera sensor. In other words, ND filters block out the light.

Now, as a landscape photographer without an ND filter, you’ll often be using a shutter speed between 1/2s and 1/125s, assuming you’re shooting with a relatively narrow aperture of f/13 or so (which is generally a good idea).

But what if you want to increase your shutter speed for creative effect? By lengthening your shutter speed, you can blur water, stretch clouds, and create all sorts of other cool effects that look amazing (especially in black and white).

Unfortunately, in most situations, dropping the shutter speed beyond 1/2s or so just can’t be done. The light is too strong; if you try it, you’ll end up with an overexposed image.

Unless you have an item that can block out the light – such as a neutral density filter! The ND filter keeps your camera from overexposing the scene even when you’re dealing with lots of light. That way, you can get the stretchy clouds and blurry water that you’re after.

For an example, check out the photos below. The first was taken at dusk with a shutter speed of 1/5s; slow enough to introduce some blur into the water, but not slow enough to really flatten out the water while making the clouds turn into interesting streaks:

Then I added a neutral density filter and made the next photo using a shutter speed of 180 seconds. The water is completely blurred, and the clouds have moved across the sky for a streaking effect:

long exposure black and white seaside landscape photo

Bottom line:

Neutral density filters give you control over your shutter speed, which you can then use to enhance your black and white landscapes.

5. Don’t just take photos like everyone else

Black and white landscape photographer Cole Thompson has an interesting idea. He practices what he calls “photographic abstinence,” where he doesn’t look at the work of other photographers. The theory is that it enables him to see the landscape through his own eyes without being influenced by other people’s photos.

I’ve never taken this idea to its extreme; I believe it’s important to research an area before you go to find its most photogenic parts. But the problem is that the most powerful images you see during your research tend to stick in your mind. The natural tendency is to want to create similar images – which then end up looking like everybody else’s.

Resist this urge. Instead, take some black and white images that are truly you.

Let me give you an example. A few years ago, I visited the Playa de las Catedrales (Cathedral Beach) in northern Spain. Search for it on Google or 500px, and most photos will look something like this, showing the cathedral-like arches for which the beach is named:

Anybody who visits the beach will naturally want to take photos of those arches. They’re the reason the spot is famous, after all. But this can be a hindrance when it causes you to miss other possibilities.

So after getting my rock arch photos (such as the shot displayed above), I really started looking. I saw some rocks in the sea that made an interesting minimalistic composition. I made the following photo:

It doesn’t feature the arches the beach is famous for. But it’s more personal to me and was more satisfying to make.

6. Travel when you can

All the photos that I have shown you so far were taken while traveling – and unless you are lucky enough to live in a breathtaking area, it’s likely that, like me, you need to travel to find inspiring landscapes to photograph.

Even if you do live somewhere with spectacular landscapes, you will need to travel to expand your experiences and add depth to your portfolio. All my favorite landscape photos were taken while traveling, and the two activities really do go together very well – travel is more interesting and exciting when there’s a purpose behind it, and landscape photography can give you that purpose.

Without travel, I would never have experienced and photographed places like this (taken in Bolivia):

At the same time, I recognize that traveling is costly and time-consuming. So even if you can’t travel, try to cultivate a traveling mindset – where you see the world around you with fresh, new eyes. Tackle more familiar scenes with this newfound excitement (and you’ll be amazed by what you start to see!).

Black and white landscape photography: final words

Hopefully, this article has given you plenty of helpful tips and tricks for black and white landscape photography.

So get outside. Give black and white shooting a try! It’s a new way of seeing the world – and one that can be a lot of fun.

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for black and white landscape photography? Share them in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

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How to Mount Gopro on Your Ski Helmet + Shooting Tips

22 Jul

You’re skiing or snowboarding down the mountain, trying to capture as much thrilling footage as possible. You’ve got your GoPro mounted on your helmet, in a random spot that “felt” right. As the terrain changes, you’re constantly moving and tilting your camera, trying to predict what will look best when viewed later. If your GoPro is not properly mounted, it Continue Reading
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10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples)

19 Jul

The post 10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Have you ever wondered how you can capture stunning images of rural landscapes? Whether you live and shoot in rural areas or you’re simply taking a trip to a rural location, this rural landscape photography guide is for you.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

The best lighting for rural landscape photos
Key tips to take your compositions to the next level
Ways to use weather for dramatic results
Much more!

Let’s dive right in, starting with…

What is rural landscape photography?

Rural landscape photography refers to “photography in the countryside” and covers the rural environment.

While rural landscapes often contain architecture – much the same as urban landscapes – rural landscape photography is more about capturing the life and elements found in the countryside. This can include humans in the landscape as well as elements of human influence.

Rural landscape photography can also encompass rural scenes including buildings, animals, and stunning countryside scenery.

Now that you understand what rural landscape photography actually is, here are some tips to help you capture your own rural landscapes:

1. Experiment with different rural subjects

Rural landscape photography offers you the chance to capture a whole range of interesting subjects, including:

Old barns
Towers
Churches
Machinery
Buildings in disrepair

You might also include modern rural elements, such as houses, working farms, and more.

When doing rural photography, don’t confine yourself to a single subject. Instead, experiment with all these different options. If you find an old barn, take the time to photograph it – and if you find a shiny new farmhouse, photograph that, too!

2. Shoot when the light is soft

You can photograph rural landscapes at any time of the day…

…but golden hour, blue hour, and nighttime offer some of the best times to get out with your camera. The light tends to be soft and flattering, perfect for rural subjects.

Golden hour provides a magical glow that can elevate your images, while blue hour adds a cool tone that works well with subjects such as old houses and derelict buildings.

If you prefer to photograph at night, you may need to be more creative, as the building lights will likely be switched off. I recommend taking a flashlight and painting light on your subject to make it more visible in the final photo.

3. Think about the sky (and the weather)

Want to capture creative rural landscape photos? Make sure you spend plenty of time thinking about the sky, which has the power to elevate – or ruin – your images.

Ask yourself: What type of atmosphere do I want to capture? For moody photos, you can head out during rain, snow, or fog. And for upbeat, colorful images, shoot in strong sunlight.

By the way, you’ll want to consider whether the sky should be included in your photo. On overcast days (where you don’t have much cloud moodiness, but you also don’t have any nice sky color), you may want to leave out the sky completely. But on stormy days, or during dramatic sunrises and sunsets, the sky will add an extra dimension to your photos.

elevated rural landscape with city in the distance

4. Use architecture to anchor the viewer

I find that architecture makes for a great focal point in rural landscape photography; it often contrasts beautifully with nature.

Traditional structures can work great, especially barns with rugged, weathered facades. They’ll create a rustic look and feel, which can really capture the viewer’s imagination. For instance, take a look at this image of an old barn:

Other architecture that makes for interesting rural landscape images includes abandoned houses, old farms, and buildings that have been left behind by people moving to cities. You can capture their aging, rundown characteristics within the surrounding countryside.

5. Don’t be afraid to include people

People often make great subjects in the countryside! After all, they are an integral part of the rural landscape.

One great thing about rural settings is that there is always human activity. At farms, people can be seen tending to their land and farm animals. And people may be out riding horses, exercising, or operating machinery, all of which can make for beautiful images.

6. Animals and the rural landscape

When you go out into the countryside, you will always come across animals. These might be wild animals, which are often well hidden and harder to photograph. Or they might be captive animals, such as horses, cows, and sheep.

Take advantage of these photo opportunities. Experiment with different forms of lighting to create unique farm-animal images. And don’t be afraid to shoot when the weather gets foggy; it’ll offer plenty of stunning atmosphere to play with:

7. Carefully position your subject for better compositions

As with all landscape photography, composition is an essential part of the best rural photos – so it’s important you get it right.

Start by asking yourself: What is my main subject? What is it that interests me most about this scene? Then determine where you want to place that main subject in the frame.

You might put it right in the center of the shot, or you might put it off to one side. It often pays to remember the rule of thirds, which suggests you position your main subject about a third of the way into the frame (either vertically or horizontally).

Also consider whether you want to capture the entire countryside or if only part of it appeals to you. Wide-angle lenses are great for landscape shots, but don’t be afraid to go tight for a more intimate perspective, one that highlights details within the scene.

8. Use the right settings for sharp photos

For rural landscape photography, the best camera settings vary depending on the shots you’re after as well as the weather.

Generally speaking, a mid-range aperture of f/8 will give you an adequate depth of field to keep everything in focus, and this often works well. But if you want to throw parts of the frame out of focus, go with a wider aperture – f/4 is a good starting point, with f/2.8 decreasing the in-focus area even further.

You will want to keep the ISO fairly low, so go for an ISO of anything between 100 and 400. Any higher, and you’ll be risking unwanted noise – but if you’re shooting in low light, an ISO of 800 and beyond may still be necessary.

As for shutter speeds: If your scene includes moving subjects (such as a swaying horse), you’ll need at least 1/100s and probably more. For scenes without significant movement, I’d still recommend keeping your shutter speed above 1/60s or so (though you also have the option of using a tripod).

Of course, shutter speed often does involve experimentation. So don’t be afraid to test out different speeds and see what works best.

9. Head out when the weather is bad

It’s true:

Bright, sunny days – especially around sunrise or sunset – offer great conditions for rural landscape photos.

But shooting in bad weather can bring another level of drama to the scene. For instance, fog can add tons of atmosphere, rain can look gloriously dreary, and snow can take your photos to new heights.

So don’t confine yourself to good weather. Instead, be prepared to shoot whenever the rural landscape looks dramatic (which is often on the most unpleasant days!).

10. Take a walk in the landscape

Here’s your final rural landscape photography tip:

Take a walk. Head out with your camera. Have fun.

After all, the countryside is a beautiful place, and you never know what you may find. You might come across wildlife, blooming flowers, hay bales, and more – all great subjects for photography!

Rural landscape photography tips: conclusion

I hope you found these tips on rural landscape photography helpful. The countryside truly is a wonderful place to explore!

Now over to you:

Do you have any favorite rural landscape subjects? Do you have any tips for composition, lighting, or subject choice that we missed? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples)

11 Jul

The post 10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Summer is a welcome period for landscape photography, as it offers fully-leafed vegetation, the prospect of warm, sunny days, fields carpeted with flowers, and the opportunity to capture dramatic images of our natural environment.

But how can you create beautiful summer landscape photos? That’s what this article is all about; in it, you’ll find plenty of tips, tricks, and secrets for amazing results.

So whether you’re new to landscape photography and are looking to do some fun summer shooting, or you’re an enthusiast aiming to improve your images, here are some tips and ideas to help you on your way!

1. Start with an idea or a theme

To capture successful images of summer, start by thinking about the types of themes and subjects you want to photograph. Ask yourself: What subjects interest me most?

Of course, what you shoot largely depends on what is around you; for example, in the UK, summer is a brilliant time to see wildflowers in bloom. There is always an explosion of reds and pinks, as fields are often carpeted in poppies. There are also bursts of purple as lavender fields flourish, and this can also make great subjects for summer landscape photography.

Summer also provides a great opportunity to capture fully leafed vegetation such as trees and hedgerows, as well as gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, plenty of joy, and beautifully dramatic weather.

2. Think both wide and abstract

Water – such as lakes, rivers, and streams – as well as dramatic weather, make great subjects for wide-angle summer landscape photography.

But in addition to capturing the sweeping vistas of gorgeous landscape scenes, don’t forget to look for the finer details. You may find stunning gems, such as insects or animals hidden in the landscape, or intimate aspects of wider scene, such as individual flowers emerging from the soil.

beautiful reflection of mountains and trees

3. Don’t forget to location scout, if possible

A great way to identify good places to shoot? Do some location scouting!

Of course, you may already know places in your local area that are great for photography, but make sure to look at them with a photographer’s eye; consider where the sun will be at different times of the day, how the location will be affected by the weather, etc.

In addition to relying on locations you already know, do some research. You can simply walk around and explore – you never know when you’ll stumble across a great scene! – or you can do a bit of Googling. Look for places other photographers have shot, recommendations from locals, and lists of the best landscape photography spots near you.

Then, the next time you’re ready to head out with you’re camera, you know exactly where to go.

field of poppies with mountains in the background

4. Check the weather (in advance)

When undertaking summer landscape photography, be sure to always check the weather conditions before heading out. Although the weather can be more stable in summer, there are often periods of heavy rain and dramatic conditions that can severely impact the outcome of your images.

Aim to shoot on the days when the weather suits what you would like to achieve. For example, if bright landscapes are your preferred shooting subject, go out on sunny days. Alternatively, if dark, brooding skies or rain is your thing, then look for overcast, gloomy, stormy days to capture the shots you’re after.

5. Consider the time of day

Days are longest and nights are shortest during the summer, with the day length decreasing after the summer solstice. There is therefore a longer period between first and last light compared with the spring or autumn.

Consequently, the sun will stay higher for longer during the summer, which means you will have more daylight time to do summer landscape photography. On the other hand, it makes night photography difficult, plus it pushes the golden hours (see the next tip!) into the early morning and late evening.

So make sure you always think about the changing light before heading out, and always check a sunrise and sunset calendar; that way, you can maximize your shooting time and get the type of shots you’re after.

6. Shoot when the light is best

Consider the light you like best for summer landscape photography. Do you prefer harsh light? Soft light? Dramatic light? Make sure you get out to shoot when the light fits your interests.

Generally speaking, the best light is at the start and end of the day – because as the sun rises and sets, the light offers golden hues and magical contrast. The vibrant colors at this time are amazing for summer landscape photography, so aim to set your alarm early and stay out late to maximize the best of the summer light.

seaside cliffs and rocks in summer landscape photography

In contrast, the light at midday is usually a lot harsher, especially when you have direct sunlight. So make sure to take this into consideration when photographing the landscape.

If you are out doing summer landscape photography in the middle of the day, be aware that the midday heat brings haze, which can make images look flat. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it’s important to be aware of the effect so you can use it – or avoid it – in your photos.

7. Make the most out of the conditions

Often, you have limited time at your chosen location to do summer landscape photography, so make sure you get the most out of the conditions you are presented with. Whether you’re dealing with rain or bright sunlight, you’ll have ample opportunities to capture the landscape at its best.

For instance, you can use overcast skies and rain to your advantage. There are still subjects that you can photograph; woodlands are great areas to shoot under cloudy skies, as are waterfalls. The rain can increase waterfall fullness, and both waterfalls and woodlands tend to look more photogenic in overcast light.

8. Use leading lines

One thing you can utilize in your landscape images during summer is leading lines. It’s a pretty popular technique because they’re a great way to lead the viewer’s eye into the frame.

In summer, there are specific things you can find in the landscape that you can use to lead the eye, such as roads, walkways, hedgerows, lines of flowers and vegetation, coastal paths, and trees.

9. Keep your gear protected

If you like to capture dramatic weather, make sure you keep your camera protected at all times. Always bring a rain cover and look to capture your summer landscape images in the period just after a storm has passed. You may even get lucky and see a rainbow.

10. Select your settings carefully

I am often asked about the best camera settings for summer landscape photography, but in truth, it really depends on what you are trying to achieve and what you want to emphasize in your scene.

As a general rule, an aperture of around f/8 to f/16 will help create more depth in an image and keep your entire scene sharp. If you want to keep parts of the frame out of focus, an aperture of, say, f/4-f/5.6 is the way to go. And a low ISO will give a sharper image (such as ISO 100-400).

As for the shutter speed: If you’re shooting handheld, stick to 1/50s or above. Of course, a sturdy tripod will let you go much lower, and you can create all sorts of interesting artistic effects, such as motion blur in waterfalls.

vibrant green trees and hills summer landscape photography

Summer landscape photography tips: final words

Although the high sun can be harsh during the summer, wildflowers such as poppies and lavender can bring color and freshness, plus you have other subjects such as hedges, trees, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and woodlands to add interest to your scenes.

It’s important to remember that landscape shooting should be enjoyed, so have fun with your summer landscape photography and appreciate being out in nature.

With these tips in mind, go and explore the landscape near you. See what you can capture!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for beautiful summer landscape photos? Do you have any summer images you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post 10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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12 Tips to Master the Clone Stamp Tool in Photoshop

09 Jul

The post 12 Tips to Master the Clone Stamp Tool in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.

The Clone Stamp tool is one of Photoshop’s most useful editing options. After all, it can get rid of all sorts of unwanted objects! Yet for beginners – and even more experienced photo editors – it can be intimidating, frustrating, and discouraging.

That’s why, in this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about the Clone Stamp tool, including how it works, how to use it to remove unwanted items from your photos, and the simple tips and tricks that will make you a Clone Stamp master.

Let’s dive right in.

When should you use the Clone Stamp tool in Photoshop?

Photoshop offers several tools for making minor adjustments to your photos (e.g., the Healing Brush tool and the Spot Healing Brush tool). But while such tools are great for minor edits – such as removing spots and power lines – when it comes time for serious, intensive surgery on your photos, the Clone Stamp tool is the way to go.

You can use the Clone Stamp tool to:

Remove people standing in the background of a portrait
Remove people walking through your travel shots
Remove cars that are positioned in awkward places
Remove distracting street signs
Remove distracting shadows
Remove distracting reflections

And those are just a few of the many applications of the Clone Stamp tool.

Clone Stamp Tool example on the Palais Garnier interior — You will not often find the stairs of the Palais Garnier in Paris free of people, so you will need to put the Clone Stamp tool to work if you want a clean picture. This applies at many other tourist destinations, as well.

How to use the Clone Stamp tool: the basics

Getting started with the Clone Stamp tool is simple. You just tell Photoshop two things:

The area you want to target for removal (i.e., the target area).
The area Photoshop should use to supply replacement pixels (i.e., the source area).

So if you were removing a person from a staircase (as I did in the example above), you would set the source area as some nearby stairs, and you would set the target area as the person you wanted to remove.

Here’s the step-by-step process for using the tool:

Step 1: Select the Clone Stamp tool from the Tools panel

You’ll find the Tools panel on the left-hand side of your screen (the Clone Stamp tool looks like a rubber stamp):

Once you have the tool selected, click on the Brush menu dropdown:

And set both the Size and the Hardness.

Step 2: Select the source area

Remember, the source area refers to the portion of the image you will use to source replacement pixels.

So hover your cursor over the source area, hold the Alt/Option key (your cursor will now become a target), and do a single click.

Step 3: Paint over the target area

Release the Alt key and move your mouse over to the area you’d like to remove. Hold down the mouse button and carefully paint in the new pixels.

And that’s it. You’re done! But while the process sounds simple, there’s a lot to understand, especially if you want to become a Clone Stamp expert.

So let’s take a look at some tips and tricks to help you conquer this important Photoshop tool, starting with:

1. Work on a new layer

Before making changes with the Clone Stamp tool, always create a new layer. Then make sure your adjustments all happen on the layer (you can flatten the image when you’re done).

Why should you do this?

There are many reasons. First of all, Photoshop layers are nondestructive – so changes to the layer won’t change the underlying pixels of your image. In addition, if you don’t like where the changes are going, you can always delete the layer and start over.

And if you later decide there are portions of the Clone Stamp changes you don’t want, you can always use a layer mask to selectively delete those changes. Plus, you can apply adjustments specifically to cloned areas if they are on a new layer (as will be explored in more depth below).

Now, creating a new layer is easy. Simply press Ctrl/Cmd+J to create a duplicate of your current image layer, or press Shift+Ctrl/Cmd+N to create a new blank layer.

Working on a new layer with the Clone Stamp tool

Note: If you do create a new blank layer, make sure you have All Layers selected as your source in the Clone Stamp tool settings.

selecting All Layers for the Clone Stamp tool

I personally prefer working on a new layer (as opposed to a duplicate layer), but either way will work.

2. Zoom in (way in)

When working with the Clone Stamp tool, you should always zoom in – in fact, I recommend you zoom way in (potentially to 100% and beyond).

zoomed in image with Clone Stamp tool on the side — I tend to do my Clone Stamp work zoomed in to 100% or more.

Zooming in will help isolate the area you are working on, and it will allow you to work with far more detail and precision than would otherwise be possible. Make your changes look as good as you can with this higher level of detail, then when you zoom back out, the changes will blend in perfectly.

A shortcut for zooming quickly is to hold the Alt/Option key with your left hand while using the scroll wheel on your mouse to zoom in and out. You can also use Ctrl/Cmd and the + or – key on the keyboard. That way, you can zoom in and out with speed.

3. Set your brush size using shortcuts

When working with the Clone Stamp tool, you’ll need to change your brush size often.

Why? You should always make sure your brush size fits the changes you’re making. Big changes require a big brush, whereas small changes require a fine brush for detail work.

Unfortunately, changing the size through the Brush panel is cumbersome, but there are some easy keyboard shortcuts:

The left bracket key [ makes the brush smaller
The right bracket key ] makes the brush larger

Thanks to these shortcuts, you’ll be able to rapidly tailor the tool to your specific circumstances.

4. Set the proper brush hardness

The Clone Stamp tool can be set to whatever hardness you desire. Simply open the Brush panel, then adjust the Hardness slider:

Now, hardness determines the extent to which your cloning will blend in with the surrounding pixels. If you set the hardness toward 100%, the cloned edges will be hard and definite:

If you set the hardness toward 0%, the edges will blend in with the surroundings:

In general, keep the hardness at 0%. It will help you seamlessly blend in your effect. There will be times, however, where you are working near a defined edge, in which case you should increase the hardness. Even then, around 50% will usually do. Setting the hardness any higher creates harsh transitions, and these often look unnatural (they’ll also make it very clear you’ve used the Clone Stamp tool).

5. Clone before making other adjustments

Here’s a quick Clone Stamp tool tip:

Do your cloning before making adjustments (via adjustment layers) to contrast, color, etc. If you apply the Clone Stamp tool after creating those adjustment layers, you’ll bake the changes permanently into your picture when you clone – which can be a problem if you later decide you want to remove some of your earlier adjustments.

However, in some cases, you’ll need to clone, yet you will have already made changes on an adjustment layer. So what do you do? Photoshop actually lets you decide whether to include adjustment layer changes in your cloning, and I generally recommend you don’t include these changes.

Simply select the circle with a line through it in the Clone Stamp tool Options bar:

preventing the Clone Stamp tool from being affected by adjustment layers

And Photoshop will ignore adjustment layers when you clone.

6. Grab the low-hanging fruit

Most of the time, your pictures will have some easy items to clone out – along with some harder items.

Clone out the easy items first, such as small blemishes on a portrait subject, dirt in a landscape, trash in a street scene, etc.

For one, this will give you confidence in your Clone Stamp tool abilities (always a good thing!). Plus, removing unnecessary items will help when the time comes to make hard changes.

How will it help? When using the Clone Stamp tool, the cleaner the space you have from which you can draw pixels, the better. So by making the easy changes first, you’re cleaning up the areas that may feature in your more difficult clone jobs later.

Make sense?

7. Watch for patterns

Sometimes, it’s a good idea to include patterns in your cloning; for instance, if you’re removing a person from in front of a building, you’ll want to use a similar building as your cloning source.

However, there are often times when you don’t want discernible patterns in your cloned areas. For instance, if you get rid of a bird in the sky, you don’t want to replace it with an obvious set of repetitive clouds – that would look super unnatural and would immediately indicate to viewers that you used the Clone Stamp tool.

There is an easy way to avoid patterns: as you clone, frequently choose a new source point. Sample from one area and clone one part of your image, then sample from another area and clone another part, and so on. Keep it up until you’ve finished all the necessary cloning, and you’ll end up with an image featuring zero repetition and an invisible clone job.

removing distractions from a lighthouse photo without creating a pattern — The right side of this image was filled with distractions, and the Clone Stamp tool eliminated them. But I had to be careful not to create patterns in the rocks or in the trees/water!

8. Follow the lines

A key to the successful use of the Clone Stamp tool is making all the lines in your picture match. Even slight deviations from the correct lines will look fake and destroy the effect you are trying to achieve.

For example, if you’re cloning parts of a landscape, make sure the edges of the tree branches match up. In an urban context, follow lines on buildings such as roof edges, doorways, and brickwork.

When you’re using the Clone Stamp tool, I recommend you start with – and stay focused on! – the lines. Let the rest of the pixels fall where they may. Afterward, if you need to go back over other areas, you can do so.

removing a person from an interior shot — Here, I’ve zoomed in on a portion of an architectural shot. As you can see, I’ve used the patterns on the floor and door to recreate the space behind the distracting person.

9. Avoid selecting from adjacent areas

As previously mentioned, a dead giveaway of the Clone Stamp tool is repetition.

Of course, in a sense, the Clone Stamp tool is all about repetition – you’re repeating a part of your image to cover up a part you don’t like – but you need to do it in such a way that the viewer doesn’t notice. If you draw pixels from an immediately adjacent area, you risk the viewer noticing the repetition. So take the pixels from somewhere else in the image instead.

Inadvertently creating a pattern is an easy trap to fall into when using adjacent areas, but at the same time, using non-adjacent areas can be tricky. The immediately adjacent areas are usually the closest in color and tone to the area you want to replace, and as you move farther away, tones and colors change so the pixels get harder to match.

So work hard. Find a way to use pixels from somewhere else in your photo, especially when the adjacent pixels contain obvious patterns. It might take extra time, but it’ll be worth it in the end.

10. Muddle through (and accept the messiness)

Once you’ve made the “easy” changes to your photo, it’s time to tackle a bigger problem – a crowd of people, for instance, or a car that takes up a large portion of the scene. And I get it: it’s the scary part of using the Clone Stamp tool.

The key is to just dive in. Don’t try to figure it all out beforehand (you never will). You can use a couple of different approaches:

Go big first. Set your brush a little larger than is strictly necessary and just replace the entire area in one fell swoop. You should then go back and clean up with a smaller brush.
Go small and steady. Stick with the smaller brush and paint over the problem area gradually. Here, the key is to keep going. Remember that you can go over the area again if necessary. Whatever you do on your first pass, while probably not perfect, will undoubtedly look better than what you started with.

You’ve just got to do it. There is a tendency to freeze up and to try to map out the entire clone job, step by step, before actually doing anything. But this just causes you to stare at the computer screen for long periods of time and isn’t especially helpful.

Remember, you can always undo what you’ve done! In addition, because you hopefully followed the first tip in this article and are working on a new layer, you can always mask out certain areas or even delete them if you don’t get the result you want.

11. Mirror your source pixels

The Clone Source panel contains lots of adjustments you can make to your brush when cloning.

To access the panel, go to Window, then click on Clone Source:

Once in the panel, you can change the angle of the replacement pixels, you can give the tool an offset, and more.

One of the most useful features in the Clone Source panel is the Flip Horizontal option:

using the Flip Horizontal setting in the Clone Source panel

Click on this, and the pixels will be replaced in the opposite horizontal direction to the source.

Confused? Don’t be. You’re basically just mirroring source pixels. For example, in the crop below, I selected the road line on the right as my source, then cloned it off to the left. You can see how the pixels are flipped horizontally:

While this may seem like a pointless trick, it can actually be very useful. Imagine you’re dealing with a symmetrical object; instead of sourcing pixels from above or below the clone target, you can simply use pixels from its opposite (reflective) side.

Here’s a typical example: A person is covering one side of a doorway, and you want to get rid of them. By clicking on Flip Horizontal, you can use the other side of the doorway as your source, and you don’t have to scramble for pixels all around the frame.

12. Change the cloned areas with adjustment layers

Sometimes, your cloned areas just won’t look exactly like the surroundings. Perhaps the source areas you used were too bright or too dark, or perhaps the colors were just a bit off.

But don’t worry; you can fix this without affecting the surrounding pixels. You just need the power of adjustment layers.

Simply create a new adjustment layer (e.g., Levels, Curves, or Hue/Saturation):

Make sure it’s positioned above your cloning layer. Then hold down the Alt/Option key and click on the spot between the two layers:

clipping an adjustment layer to the cloning layer below it

This will clip the adjustment layer to your cloning layer. Now any adjustments you apply will only change the layer below it, and you’re free to brighten, darken, add contrast, adjust colors, etc.

Mastering the Clone Stamp tool: final words

Remember: Using the Clone Stamp tool can be a messy process. So don’t worry if you find yourself having to redo changes or make things up as you go along. There is no magical “clean” method – instead, the Clone Stamp tool involves a lot of experimentation, a lot of problem-solving, and a dose of determination.

Take your time and just keep moving. You can always undo your changes (or, if you are working on a new layer, you can delete the changes without losing the rest of your work).

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips or tricks for using the Clone Stamp tool? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 12 Tips to Master the Clone Stamp Tool in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.

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Creative Phone Photography: 8 Tips for Artistic Mobile Photos

02 Jul

The post Creative Phone Photography: 8 Tips for Artistic Mobile Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

creative phone photography: 8 tips for artistic images

A phone with a camera is great for photography. But it can be tough to break away from a “snapshot” mindset and start taking images that are truly creative.

In this article, we’ll take a look at some tips to help you capture creative phone photography. Specifically, I’ll share:

Key settings to make the most of your phone’s camera
Several tips to get you creating unique, artistic compositions
A simple secret for surreal-looking phone photos
Much more!

So if you’re ready to shoot some creative images, then let’s get started.

1. Shoot in RAW

Familiarizing yourself with the ins and outs of your phone camera is an important way to expand your creative options. Modern camera phones have a surprising range of capabilities that you can use for better photos.

For example, it’s a good idea to shoot in a RAW file format (an option now offered by many native camera apps). While JPEGs are the default format on many phones, they experience a loss in image quality thanks to compression – whereas RAW files are uncompressed and therefore tend to look better.

RAW files also offer greater post-processing versatility. You can adjust colors and tones and recover lost details in a natural, realistic way.

So if you’re after high-quality photos – which allow for extensive enhancement during post-production – then try switching to RAW. (Even if your mobile phone doesn’t offer RAW in its native camera app, you should still be able to find a third-party app that produces high-quality RAW files.)

setting up RAW format on a phone — RAW activated in Pro mode on an Android device.

2. Make the most of Manual mode

As with a conventional camera, Manual mode allows you to take control of your phone’s camera’s settings when capturing a photo. In Manual mode, you can adjust shutter speed, ISO, and white balance – and this additional control allows for greater creative input.

To activate Manual mode (also known as Pro mode) on some devices, open your Camera app and look at the camera mode tray. You should see settings like Timelapse and Panorama, and if you’re lucky, you’ll also have a Pro option.

Simply tap the Pro mode icon, and you’ll be good to go; you’ll gain access to numerous options for adjusting your phone camera’s functionality.

If your phone doesn’t offer a Pro mode, don’t worry. Simply download a third-party app such as ProCamera, Camera+ 2, or Obscura 2. All of these apps feature a Manual mode of sorts, and you can use it to harness your phone camera’s creative potential.

3. Don’t forget about composition!

Over time, plenty of guidelines have been developed to help photographers compose effective images. While none of these guides are inflexible laws, if you’re familiar with some basic compositional concepts, your photos will come a long way.

Of course, compositional knowledge translates to creative phone photography, too! For example, by activating your phone camera’s grid function, you’ll get a useful visual overlay, perfect for positioning key points of interest.

Learn about the rule of thirds, leading lines, the rule of space, triangular composition, and more; each of these will be helpful tools that’ll aid in your creative phone photography.

4. Make use of editing apps

I’ve already mentioned how third-party camera apps can give you increased control over your phone camera. But did you know that editing apps offer a whole other world of creativity?

For instance, Snapseed (Android and iOS) is a (free!) Google-owned application with plenty of tools for tweaking images and applying filters. VSCO (Android and iOS) offers some editing functions for free, including artistic, film-like filters. Adobe Lightroom (Android and iOS) supplies image editing tools similar to its desktop counterpart for free, and it can also be upgraded to a paid premium version for additional functionality.

(Unlike VSCO and Snapseed, only the paid version of Lightroom will edit RAW files.)

editing apps for creative phone photography

There are plenty of fun, creative apps available for both iOS and Android devices. Need a retro aesthetic? Afterlight (above, left) provides users with an advanced toolkit to add light leak effects to an image. Want to combine two images into a single photograph? Snapseed (above, right) allows you to quickly and easily merge image layers to create a double-exposure effect.

There are a multitude of apps that suit a huge variety of purposes and capabilities. The fun part is trying them all out!

5. Try different perspectives

One of the great things about creative phone photography is the mobility of a small photographic device. A camera phone isn’t just an accessory; it’s a pocket-sized machine capable of capturing stunning photos.

So take advantage of the size and portability of a phone camera by physically experimenting to create intriguing perspectives. Place your phone close to the ground, try a high angle, or shoot from off to the side. Just make sure to get a non-conventional perspective, and you’re bound to end up with interesting results.

6. Go abstract

Also known as experimental, non-objective, or conceptual photography, abstract photography avoids depicting immediately identifiable subject matter.

In fact, creative phone photography and abstraction are a good mix. The accessibility of the phone camera allows you to snap abstract images anywhere, anytime. For instance, when you’re out in a city, you might capture abstract images of puddles on the ground, posters torn off a wall, or reflections in a glass building.

And thanks to readily available editing apps, unique abstract perspectives can be rapidly captured, edited, and shared – or even saved as inspiration for a later shoot with a dedicated camera.

7. Photograph details

If you have your phone in your pocket all the time – and let’s face it, most of us do! – you’ll be ready to capture even the smallest occurrences at a moment’s notice.

Even when it’s tough to find inspiration, focusing on the details that shape an everyday environment can make for beautiful photos. Try activating your phone’s close-up or macro function, then get close to a subject. You can even purchase little lenses that attach to your phone for close-up photography. A small tripod or a sturdy surface can help keep the camera phone steady.

8. Experiment!

It may sound obvious, but doing great phone photography can take a little experimentation. Many people assume (due to the advanced and accessible nature of phone camera technology) that every shot will be successful.

But in reality, practice and experimentation are the keys to effective creative phone camera photography. Familiarize yourself with your phone camera’s capabilities and make time to shoot. The more you experiment, the better your images will turn out.

experimental phone photo of a blurry road

Creative phone photography tips: conclusion

Phone photography is a great way to create stunning photos, especially if you want to be artistic without investing in a heavy camera.

Plus, with such a huge variety of apps available, doing creative phone photography has become a much more streamlined process.

There is an old saying: “The best camera is the one you have with you.” And while this might not always be the case, if you take advantage of your phone camera, you can create some truly outstanding images!

Now over to you:

Have you done a lot of phone photography? How do you like it? Which of these tips do you plan to use first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Creative Phone Photography: 8 Tips for Artistic Mobile Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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Posts Tagged ‘Tips’

1. Take your camera everywhere

2. Use a long focal length

3. Kill the flash

4. Take a lot of shots

5. Position yourself strategically

6. Photograph people doing things

7. Photograph people with people

8. Shoot from the hip

9. Change your perspective

10. Frame images with foreground elements

11. Take posed shots into candid territory

Candid photography tips: final words

1. Make photographs, don’t take snapshots

2. Compose, then expose

3. Seek the light

4. Take control of your settings

5. Use all available lenses

6. Three legs are better than none

7. You’re not done until you’ve edited

8. Got a backup? Make one!

9. Use GPS data to track your photo locations

10. Previsualize with your smartphone camera

11. Try shooting in RAW

Smartphone landscape photography tips: conclusion

Smartphone landscape photography FAQs

1. Trust the musician (and ask lots of questions)

2. Do your homework

3. Ask the musician to play for you

4. Get close-ups of the action

5. Make the instrument the star

Musician portrait tips: conclusion

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

1. Handpick your produce

2. Pay careful attention to composition

3. Choose the right shutter speed, aperture, and ISO

4. Change the angle of view

5. Use color to make your photos stand out

6. Experiment with close-ups

7. Use light modifiers (and a tripod)

8. Think about lighting direction and contrast

9. Use a complementary (or non-distracting) backdrop

10. Style before you shoot

11. Enhance your vegetable photography with editing

12. Have fun with levitation (and other special effects)

The levitation shot

Editing your photo

Vegetable photography tips: final words

Vegetable photography FAQs

1. Learn what scenes work well in black and white

2. Look for tonal contrast and texture

3. Shoot in black and white mode

4. Learn to use neutral density filters

5. Don’t just take photos like everyone else

6. Travel when you can

Black and white landscape photography: final words

What is rural landscape photography?

1. Experiment with different rural subjects

2. Shoot when the light is soft

3. Think about the sky (and the weather)

4. Use architecture to anchor the viewer

5. Don’t be afraid to include people

6. Animals and the rural landscape

7. Carefully position your subject for better compositions

8. Use the right settings for sharp photos

9. Head out when the weather is bad

10. Take a walk in the landscape

Rural landscape photography tips: conclusion

1. Start with an idea or a theme

2. Think both wide and abstract

3. Don’t forget to location scout, if possible

4. Check the weather (in advance)

5. Consider the time of day

6. Shoot when the light is best

7. Make the most out of the conditions

8. Use leading lines

9. Keep your gear protected

10. Select your settings carefully

Summer landscape photography tips: final words