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Panasonic Leica DG 15mm F1.7 shooting experience

22 Jul
The Panasonic Leica DG 15mm F1.7 is a sharp-looking lens that also happens to be very sharp optically as well.

Whenever I see a lens with the name ‘Leica’ stamped on the front, I assume two things; first, it will be at least ‘good’ optically. Second, it will be a little pricey. The Panasonic Leica DG 15mm F1.7 reinforces both of those assumptions.

This 15mm F1.7 prime lens is for the Micro Four Thirds system and offers a unique 30mm-equivalent field of view. This made it especially exciting to me, as I’m a fan of both the 28mm and 35mm focal lengths, but I can never really decide which I like better – so maybe something in the middle will be just right.

This is the only 30mm-equivalent focal length prime lens on the market today, and that makes it pretty special.

It features a dedicated aperture ring, and is very compact despite offering nine elements in seven groups – with three of those elements being aspherical. It has seven aperture blades, and the diameter of the lens barrel is among the smallest available for the m43 system, meaning it matches particularly well with Panasonic’s (discontinued, sadly) GM1 and GM5 ultra-compact cameras.

The diminutive Panasonic Leica 15mm F1.7 pairs magnificently with Panasonic’s equally diminutive, though discontinued GM5.

And compactness is something I value pretty highly when it comes to camera gear, despite having a general affinity for full-frame sensors. After all, a smaller kit means I’ll bring it along more often and take more pictures, and I do find that the Micro Four Thirds system comes with an excellent balance of portability, speed, features and image quality.

This lens launched at an MSRP of around $ 600, but it’s been on the market long enough that it’s quite likely you’ll get a better deal than that, especially if you’re buying used.

On the camera and in the hand

The build quality of the 15mm F1.7 is nothing short of superb. It feels dense without being heavy, and it offers that pleasant coolness-to-the-touch that indicates mostly metal construction. There’s a ring on the front of the lens that detaches to allow the use of an optional bayonet-mount hood.

Here’s all the controls you get: an AF/MF switch, aperture control, and a nicely damped manual focus ring.

Handling is fairly straightforward. There’s an aperture control ring near the front of the lens, which offers great ‘click feel’ when you change your settings. Unfortunately, it’s only functional when the lens is mounted on one of Panasonic’s Micro Four Thirds cameras, so you’ll need to use a command dial for aperture if you put it on an Olympus, for example. The AF / MF switch takes a good amount of effort to move, so you won’t likely bump it accidentally, and the manual focus ring is exceedingly smooth and well-damped.

While the build quality of the lens inspires some confidence, be aware that Panasonic makes no claims of weather sealing, and there are no signs of any either; not even a rubber gasket around the mount.

Time to start shooting

The Panasonic Leica 15mm F1.7 focused fast enough to grab a sharp shot of this adorable and potentially vicious creature. Processed to taste in Adobe Camera Raw.
Olympus PEN-F | ISO 2000 | 1/80 sec | F1.7

This lens is fast; not only in terms of maximum aperture, but in operation. All recent Panasonic lenses have been designed to support the company’s Depth-from-Defocus (DFD) technology, which results in the use of very lightweight and very fast-moving autofocus elements.

This lens is fantastic for environmental portraits and casual documentary photography.

You’ll still get good autofocus speeds on Olympus m43 cameras, but when you mount the 15mm F1.7 on any current Panasonic camera, the autofocus speeds are downright impressive under just about any lighting conditions (this contributed to my getting a huge number of keepers of furry and feathered critters over my weeks of shooting).

‘Please don’t bark at the other dogs. Please don’t bark at the other dogs. Please just sit there and be cute.’
Olympus PEN-F | ISO 200 | 1/80 sec | F1.7

Having shot many 28mm-equivalent and 35mm-equivalent lenses, I found the 30mm-equivalent focal length of the 15mm F1.7 was comfortable for me to use. I tend to find shooting 28mm a little more challenging than 35mm; I end up getting a little closer to my subjects to exaggerate perspective with the former, and I tend to layer compositional elements more with the latter. With this Panasonic, I was doing a bit of both, and I liked it.

But let’s move on to image quality; as I mentioned earlier, with that name stamped on the front of the lens, I had some high hopes for the 15mm F1.7, and I wasn’t disappointed.

The quality of blur, both in the foreground and background, was something I really enjoyed about the 15mm F1.7. And quality of blur is obviously of tantamount importance when shooting portraits of chickens. Processed to taste in Adobe Camera Raw.
Panasonic GX85 | ISO 200 | 1/125 sec | F1.7

With the Micro Four Thirds sensor size, this lens isn’t going to be an absolute bokeh machine at F1.7 – but that’s not the point. If you want to obliterate your backgrounds into blurry swaths of color, well, you’ll probably want both a longer lens and a larger sensor, and so this isn’t quite the setup for you. That said, I found the quality of the blur that you can get with this lens to be pleasing on both sides of the focal plane.

The Panasonic 15mm F1.7 is just plain fun.

You can shoot this lens close to wide open all the time and still find your images are sharp enough, with enough of your scene in focus to provide some context. It’s a fantastic option for environmental portraiture and casual documentary photography, where its small size will let you blend in a little more and keep your subjects from being too intimidated.

Processed to taste in Adobe Camera Raw. Panasonic Lumix GX85 | ISO 200 | 1/500 sec | F4

Stopping the lens down a bit gets you great sharpness across the frame, though for landscape photography enthusiasts, you may find the sunstars to be slightly lacking. I’ve also found some occasional weirdness with the flare this lens produces, but it didn’t happen often enough to be a major concern.

Sunstars look decent, but at F11 (F22 equiv) this is a little further stopped-down than I usually like to go on Micro Four Thirds. Funky flare. It’s a unique look I didn’t mind too much, but it won’t be to everyone’s personal taste.

Wrapping up

The Panasonic Leica 15mm F1.7 is a lens I can wholeheartedly recommend to just about anyone with the requisite cash. It may not be weather-sealed, but the build quality is still excellent, and the straightforward handling and lightning autofocus both do their parts to keep your kit from getting in the way of your photography. It’s also just plain fun to use.

Most importantly, this is (so far as I can find) the only 30mm-equivalent focal length prime lens on the market today,* and that makes it pretty special. For ‘walk around’ purposes, this lens slots right in the middle of my go-to focal lengths of 28mm and 35mm, and just feels right. If you enjoy this focal length range on the Micro Four Thirds system, the Panasonic 15mm F1.7 is definitely worth a look.

It may be a little pricey for some folks, but as a carry-everywhere walk-around lens, I found the Panasonic Leica 15mm F1.7 hard to beat. Processed to taste in Adobe Camera Raw.
Olympus PEN-F | ISO 200 | 1/1250 sec | F1.7

* There is, of course, the Pentax 31mm F1.8 Limited, but 31mm isn’t 30mm. That said, I definitely want to give the 31mm a go on the Pentax K-1.

Additional sample images

We’ve updated our earlier sample gallery with more images from the Panasonic Leica DG 15mm F1.7. Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter / magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review), we do so in good faith, please don’t abuse it.

Panasonic GX85 | ISO 1000 | 1/125 sec | F1.7

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Panasonic Lumix G Leica 15mm F1.7 sample gallery

55 images • Posted on Jun 23, 2017 • View album
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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Demystify Shooting Video With Your dSLR

12 Jul

It’s almost impossible these days to get a camera that doesn’t have a video mode yet I’m going to guess that you have either never pushed the record button, or you have and you weren’t happy with the results so never pushed it again. Or maybe you’ve avoided pushing the button simply because you don’t want to deal with editing the video. It becomes one of those things that’s easier to avoid than it is to try and possibly fail at mastering immediately. And while it’s true that the record button is red, you shouldn’t let that stop you shooting video.

shotting video - red button

If you are one of those photographers, let’s demystify some of the ins and outs of shooting video with your DSLR and open up a new string to your bow. The biggest tip? Just to get out there and shoot some video. Not all the footage will be amazing, but the more you do it the more you’re going to learn and the more comfortable you’ll get with it. Dare I say, you may actually have some fun learning something new as well.

Why bother?

But why would you want to add the shooting video to your arsenal in the first place? Let’s be honest, even if you aren’t making money from your photography, if you’re like most of us, you really like getting attention online and engaging with others. Video is a great way to get attention on social media and begin a dialogue. A fake survey that I am about to make up said that people are 800,000% more likely to stop and look a post if it includes a video.

On a serious note though, video can help improve your storytelling and it’s fun to learn new things. Perhaps if you find yourself in a bit of a rut, it could be just the thing to help get your creative juices flowing.

Smiling shooting video

Storytelling and video editing

Video, just like photography, is about telling a story.

The first thing to think about with video is that you will most likely have to edit it, not much, but at least just a bit. It’s important to have at least some idea of what your edit is going to look like before you shoot video. I’ve been working in the film industry for almost 20 years and even I have times where I get back to the editing suite and realize that I’ve forgotten to get a shot that would really help. The more you shoot, the more you’ll realize how many different angles and shots you actually need to tell the story.

Interview shooting video

A good tip is to always get wide and tight shots. Your close-up and medium detail shots are most likely going to be your beauty shots, artsy-fartsy if you like. Then the wide shots will help you establish your scene and let your audience know where your story is taking place, which is absolutely vital. Once you have those shots, just have fun and be creative. Take more shots and angles than you think you’ll need. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did!

Camera settings for shooting video

When it comes to the settings on your camera, you can go really deep but don’t let it stop you from starting! There are some basics to start with:

1. Select a frame rate

If you’re in North America or Japan, select 30 frames per second and if you’re anywhere else select 25 frames per second. There are a few other options and reasons for all of them, but this is a good place to start.

Frame rates are normally found in the “movie settings”, which is at the bottom of the “Shooting Menu” on Nikon.

With Canon, you may have to turn on Live View mode before the movie options will appear in the menu.

2. Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed

These work exactly the same in video as they do when taking still photos, so that’s easy.

But shutter speed is slightly different. As a general rule, set your shutter speed to double the frame rate. This is so that movement in your video will look natural. If you set your shutter speed low – in video mode, most cameras won’t let you go under 1/20th – then any movement will be blurry. If you set your shutter speed higher than 1/60th or so, then things moving in your video may appear too sharp. Yes, too sharp can be bad in video – try it and see for yourself.

Here is a short video to help you with video settings:

3. Audio

Lastly but probably most importantly, think about your audio. Without realizing it, you’ll find it makes all the difference in your video. The built-in microphones on most cameras are not great, so a good way to get round that is… don’t use it.

So what DO you use? Well, microphones are a bit like cameras, the best one is the one you have with you. So just use music over your whole video to cover anything until you can get a better audio source.

Gear

What about gear, you ask? Don’t you need loads of different equipment than what you use for photography? What about external monitors, tripods, and video lights? Do you need a fancy rig? Sure, you can get a whole lot of new gear but you don’t NEED anything to get started. It’s too easy to let a lack of gear stop you but if you have a camera with a record button, you have everything you need to start.

record button shooting video

shooting video gear shooting video fancy rig

Conclusion

You just need to get out there and shoot – anything. Just press the red button, because this is one situation where red means go. Go shoot some video and have some fun like this!

The post How to Demystify Shooting Video With Your dSLR by Lee Herbet appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Photo of the week: Shooting the northern lights in Norway

02 Jul

This image was taken in Skagsanden beach is—my favorite location in the Lofoten Islands—with one of my Lofoten workshop groups earlier this year. The Northern Lights were dancing wildly all over the sky, and I arrived at the beach after having shot another location earlier that night.

This time around, I decided to try and shoot the Aurora with this beautiful stream and its black & white sand patterns in the foreground. Luckily, the lights were reflecting on the stream, emphasizing those patterns.

To get the whole scene in the frame, I used the Canon EF 11-24mm F4L, one of my favorite lenses. Even though the lens is only an F4, the Aurora was very bright and there was some moonlight as well, both of which gave me enough light for a decent exposure.

The final image above was focus stacked from two shots, both taken at 11mm and F4, with my Canon 5D Mark IV set to 8 seconds and ISO3200.


Erez Marom is a professional nature photographer, photography guide and traveler based in Israel. You can follow Erez’s work on Instagram, Facebook and 500px, and subscribe to his mailing list for updates.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The same but different: Canon EOS 6D Mark II shooting experience

29 Jun
Spot the difference: on the outside, the Canon EOS 6D Mark II looks a lot like its predecessor, but it’s a considerably more powerful camera.

The Canon EOS 6D is something of an oddity in digital camera terms, having been in continuous production for almost five years. But finally, the time has come for an update to one of Canon’s most popular models, and it has arrived in the shape of the EOS 6D Mark II.

Unusually for a new Canon product, we had the chance earlier this month to use a late pre-production EOS 6D Mark II ahead of its official announcement. What follows is a first take on how the camera performs, based on a two-day shooting excursion, organized by Canon, to the Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming.

Detail is rendered well by the 6D Mark II’s new 26MP sensor, and Raw files sharpen up nicely.

EF 24-70mm F2.8 II | 1/400 sec | F8 | ISO 100

The first thing that struck me about the EOS 6D Mark II is how similar it feels to the original 6D. Ergonomically, Canon really hasn’t changed the basic recipe much. When the two cameras are compared side by side, it’s pretty hard to tell them apart from a moderate distance and even in use, there are more similarities between the models than there are differences.

Key specifications:

  • 26.2MP full-frame Dual Pixel CMOS sensor
  • 45-point PDAF autofocus system (all cross-type)
  • Dual Pixel live view / movie AF (80% coverage vertical / horizontal)
  • 7560-pixel RGB+IR metering sensor
  • ISO 100-40,000 (expandable between ISO 50-102,400)
  • 6.5fps continuous shooting
  • 1.04 million dot, 3″ fully-articulating touchscreen
  • 1080/60p video
  • Built in Wifi + NFC and GPS

The major operational difference is also the most obvious. The 6D Mark II’s rear LCD is fully articulating, and touch-sensitive, in line with recent Canon DSLRs like the EOS 80D. In fact, the 6D Mark II handles a lot like a slightly up-sized 80D in general. It also shares a lot of the same technology, in particular the same 45-point PDAF system and Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and movie modes.

The 6D Mark II handles a lot like a slightly up-sized EOS 80D

As such, for 80D users looking to make the jump into full-frame, the 6D Mark II would be a very sensible upgrade – aside from the lack of a built-in flash on the 6D, there’s virtually no learning curve.

From behind, you can see that the 6D Mark II offers almost exactly the same control layout as the original 6D. There’s no dedicated AF joystick, but the rear 8-way controller can be configured for direct control over AF point positioning via a custom function.

The 6D Mark II incorporates a latest-generation Digic 7 processor, which enables an impressively fast continuous shooting rate of 6.5 fps. I haven’t had a chance to shoot any action with the 6D II yet, but even during extended shooting of bracketed Raw images it didn’t keep me waiting. Canon claims a burst depth of 25 Raw + JPEG Fine shots at 6.5fps with a fast UHS-I card and this seems accurate, based on my experience.

The downside of adopting the 80D’s PDAF autofocus system is obvious when you put your eye to the viewfinder

The 6D Mark II’s viewfinder experience is pleasant, thanks to a magnification of 0.71x and 98% coverage vertically and laterally. Sub-100% viewfinder coverage is just one of several differentiators that Canon uses to distinguish its non-professional models (a single card slot being another) but the loss of that 2% is unlikely to cause any problems in normal photography.

Autofocus response in one-shot mode is fast and positive, but the downside of adopting the 80D’s PDAF autofocus system is obvious when you put your eye to the viewfinder. Because it is inherited from a cropped-sensor camera, the AF array occupies a comparatively small, central area of the 6D II’s frame. The relative lack of lateral AF coverage means that the 6D Mark II won’t be particularly versatile when it comes to off-center compositions or tracking, but to be quite honest, I suspect that most potential buyers won’t care.

If you really need super-accurate AF tracking from a Canon DSLR, you’ll need to save up for an EOS-1D X Mark II. But based on our experience of the closely-related 80D, the 6D II’s 45-point cross-type AF system, coupled with the 7560-pixel RGB+IR metering sensor is likely to be more than adequate for everyday shooting of mostly static subjects.

A handheld shot at the long end of Canon’s latest 100-400mm telezoom, straight out of the camera. At ISO 1250, some noise is visible, but it’s not problematic.

EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 II | 1/320 sec | F5.6 | ISO 1250

By contrast (no pun intended), autofocus in live view and movie modes is peerless, thanks to Canon’s Dual Pixel AF system. With 80% vertical and lateral coverage, and the option to set focus point by touch, the 6D II arguably offers better autofocus with the mirror locked up than it does in conventional viewfinder shooting mode.

Video: No 4K, and nothing flashy.

I didn’t shoot much video in Yellowstone (certainly nothing good enough to include in this article) but the 6D Mark II’s video mode is essentially the same as other recent non-professional Canon DSLRs. That means 1080/60p with a familiar, standard feature set. No 4K, and nothing flashy. Sorry, videographers – the 6D Mark II isn’t the low-cost 4K B-camera you might have been hoping for.

Some people will be largely ambivalent about this. After all, this isn’t 2009 anymore and following the arrival of Sony’s a7-series there are plenty of other options out there for enthusiast videographers that want to shoot 4K video with Canon EF lenses. It’s a shame though, because an affordable 4K-capable camera with Dual Pixel AF really would be a wonderful thing. Maybe one day…

At any rate, I have no doubt that several video-dedicated sites are typing furious blog posts about it even as we speak.

Despite the unexciting video specification, Dual Pixel AF does makes the 6D Mark II a very simple, relatively versatile movie-shooting camera, and certainly an enjoyable one, especially for casual hand-held shooting.

A big difference compared to the original 6D is the Mark II’s articulating screen. This is great for tripod-mounted shooting, and for grabbing low-angle stills. It’s useful in video mode, too, where setting focus by touch is especially handy. The 6D Mark II’s Dual Pixel AF system in live view and video is excellent.

Even for stills, the articulating touch-sensitive LCD is extremely handy. The majority of my dawn and dusk shooting in Yellowstone was conducted with the 6D Mark II on a tripod, in live view mode with exposure simulation turned on. Compared to a fixed screen, the 6D II’s articulating LCD is a lot more useful, as well as being a lot more comfortable to use from waist height. And while some people will always make the case for tilting, as opposed to side-articulating displays, I came to really appreciate the ability to pop the screen out for vertical compositions, too.

A tripod-mounted shot, taken at as long an exposure as I could manage without an ND filter. This image was composed vertically, in live view mode. Although the 6D Mark II doesn’t offer focus peaking, the magnification feature in live view mode provides a detailed enough on-screen image for accurate manual focus.

EF 24-70mm F2.8 II | 0.3 sec | F14 | ISO 100

Canon’s live view implementation is pretty mature at this point, and features like a real-time histogram, and powerful magnification for accurate manual focus are very useful. I wish the electronic horizon could be overlaid on the live view display, but it’s not hard to work around. I also wish the 6D Mark II offered focus peaking, but in practice the 10X magnified live view display offered enough contrast for accurate focus, even in pre-dawn light. And of course Dual Pixel AF is so good that there’s less need for manual focus anyway.

I don’t know what this insect is (perhaps a reader could tell me?)* but I think it enjoyed the 6D Mark II’s flip-out screen as much as I did.

The 1.04 million dot LCD features an anti-smudge coating, but not an anti-reflective coating. As such, dirt and fingerprints clean off the screen very easily, but I did find myself increasing screen brightness for live view work in bright conditions.

* UPDATE: A reader tells me that this is a Salmon Fly (Pteronarcys dorsata). That was quick!

While I wasn’t able to perform any controlled testing, the 6D Mark II’s newly developed 26MP sensor appears to deliver excellent results across its native ISO sensitivity span. In good light, at low / medium ISO sensitivities, images look exactly as I’d expect from a modern Canon DSLR. I don’t really care for Canon’s default JPEG rendition, which tends towards rather mushy detail at a pixel level, but the colors are great and there’s a lot of detail in Raw files.

Because of the current lack of 3rd-party Raw support (and to honor a request from Canon) my workflow up to now has been to perform a basic tonal conversion in Canon’s bundled DPP software, before outputting files as 16-bit TIFFs to Photoshop for sharpening. While I’d probably never find myself shooting in the ‘Landscape’ Picture Style except by accident, I did find that applying (and then modifying) this profile in DPP gave pleasantly bright, vibrant images of the Yellowstone springs.

The 6D Mark II is dust and weather-sealed (but only with a lens attached). This view shows the remote control port, to the lower right of the lens mount, covered with a rubber cap.

You’ll find plenty of images in our samples gallery, but I’m reserving judgement on exactly how well the files from the 6D Mark II compare to competitive cameras until we’ve received robust ACR support. According to Canon representatives, the 6D Mark II should outperform the original 6D (which it very evidently does) but may not offer the same kind of dynamic range and absolute resolution of the EOS 5D Mark IV.

When shadow areas are lifted by a couple of stops, there’s no obvious banding, but noise becomes prominent

I had the opportunity to accidentally run a kind of halfway test on the 6D Mark II’s shadow dynamic range when shooting bracketed images of a dawn eruption from Old Faithful, heavily backlit by the rising sun. When shadow areas are lifted by a couple of stops, there’s no obvious banding, but noise becomes prominent, suggesting that the 6D Mark II’s sensor probably isn’t ISO-invariant. This isn’t a surprise, but watch this space for confirmation from our lab testing once we receive a shipping sample.

This shot was deliberately exposed for the highlighted vapor cloud of Old Faithful’s eruption, lit from behind by the rising sun. I adjusted the exposure in Canon’s DPP software to recover midtones and shadows.

EF 24-70mm F2.8 II | 1/400 sec | F11 | ISO 100

Something that prospective 6D upgraders should be aware of is that the increase in resolution from 20MP to 26MP will show up flaws in cheaper lenses. I was mostly shooting with Canon’s excellent 16-35mm F4L and 24-70mm F2.8L II on the trip, both of which deliver very good edge-to-edge sharpness, but images from the cheaper 24-105mm F4L II don’t look great towards the edges. That said, I am probably more inclined towards pixel-peeping than the average 6D II buyer will be (certainly more than they should be) and at normal viewing distances, even a stickler like me wouldn’t know the difference.

In summary

Every new generation of cameras brings performance improvements, and after almost five years, it’s no surprise that the 6D Mark II is a considerably more powerful camera than its predecessor. It’s fast, very responsive, impressively easy to use, and offers a good balance of user-friendly ergonomics and customization options (28 in all), which should appeal to its intended user base.

Another tripod-mounted shot, taken at sunset. Although I rarely shoot in anything other than default JPEG Picture Style, I found that applying the Landscape style to Raw files in DPP and then modifying the tones gave a good starting point for sunrise and sunset shots.

EF 16-35mm F4 | 1/5 sec | F16 | ISO 100

Like the original 6D, the 6D Mark II is a solid, predictable, easy to use camera that appears to be capable of excellent image quality. It’s pretty compact, but impressively well built, too, including some degree of weather-sealing. As usual, we don’t know exactly what that means, but I can tell you that during the Yellowstone trip, my 6D II shrugged off a fairly good soaking in an unexpected downpour without any ill-effects.

The 6D Mark II makes an excellent lower-cost alternative for someone considering an EOS 5D Mark IV

The 6D II is unlikely to to be able to rival competitors like the venerable Nikon D750 when it comes to autofocus performance and Raw dynamic range, and I wish there was a dedicated AF positioning joystick, but for a lot of photographers these will count as minor complaints.

On the face of it then, the 6D Mark II makes an excellent lower-cost alternative for someone considering an EOS 5D Mark IV, and a sensible upgrade for 80D users looking to move up to full-frame.

Canon EOS 6D Mark II Samples (pre-production)

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Please note that the samples in this gallery were shot with a pre-production camera. As such, image quality may not be representative of final shipping cameras (although it is likely to be extremely close), and at Canon’s request, Raw files are not available for download.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Metabones enables 10 fps shooting with AF for Canon glass on Sony a9

28 Jun

If you were disappointed by reports that the Sony a9 struggles with long adapted Canon lenses, you might be able to take some comfort from Metabones’ latest firmware update. The update for EF-E Smart Adapter Mark IV/V and EF-E Speed Booster Ultra adds autofocus support for medium and high burst modes on the Sony a9. However, since adapted lens support maxes out at 10 fps with AF, high burst mode simply runs at medium speeds (10 fps electronic, 5 fps mechanical).

We’ve have had a chance to give this update a go with a number of Canon mount lenses (including Sigma lenses), and are impressed with the results: with wider lenses (85mm and wider), you get phase-detect AF over most of the frame at 10 fps in Wide and Flexible Spot modes. With longer lenses (70-200/2.8, 100-400/4.5-5.6), focus starts to falter outside of the central region – something that doesn’t happen with native E-mount lenses. In L drive mode (3 fps), the camera opens up the aperture in between shots – both for adapted and E-mount lenses, allowing the camera to continue focusing beyond F11 (at frame rates higher than 3 fps, the camera reverts to manual focus at apertures smaller than F11 – with both adapted and native lenses).

In manual focus mode, you can shoot up to 20 fps with adapted lenses. This is quite an impressive update for the Metabones adapter, and we’ve confirmed it to function significantly better with the a9 than the Sigma adapter (which has yet to issue a firmware update for the a9).

The firmware is available for download now from Metabones.

Firmware upgrade for EF-E Smart AdapterTM MARK IV/V and EF-E Speed BoosterTM ULTRA

RELEVANT PRODUCTS

This information is for the following models:

  • EF-E Smart AdapterTM MARK IV/V (model number MB_EF-E-BM4 / MB_EF-E-BT4 / MB_EF-E-BT5)
  • EF-E Speed BoosterTM ULTRA (model number MB_SPEF-E-BM2 / MB_SPEF-E-BT2 / MB_SPEF-E-BT3)

ABOUT THIS DOWNLOAD

  • Name: Firmware update V0.57 for EF-E Smart AdapterTM MARK IV/V and EF-E Speed BoosterTM ULTRA
  • Release date: 26 Jun 2017
  • Benefits and improvements:
    – Added autofocus support during high speed and medium speed continuous drive (up to 10fps) on Sony A9 (“Green” mode only). Experiment with the “Priority Set in AF-C” setting for the best compromise between hit rate and frame rate for your shooting style. Overall performance depends on lens used. The camera does not use hunting while tracking is in operation. If subject movement exceeds the measurement range of the OSPDAF sensor, autofocus pauses. This is by design. The measurement range of the OSPDAF sensor decreases as the focal length increases. Except for the original Mark I Smart Adapter this feature is available for all subsequent Speed Boosters and Smart Adapters.
    – Enlarged PDAF area on supported cameras when adapter is in Advanced mode, with the advisory that AF performance may be unsatisfactory outside of the central portion of the frame.
    – Enabled AF illuminator (Advanced mode only).
    – There is an AF accuracy issue when using AF-S or DMF on Sony A9 and telephoto lenses with Metabones in “Advanced” mode, which affects this and all previous firmware versions. Green mode, which is set by default on Sony A9, is not affected (except for the original Smart Adapter Mark I, which does not support “Green” mode). A9 users are advised to not use “Advanced” mode but stick with the default “Green” mode. In addition, some telephoto lenses rarely exhibit this issue, such as EF 200/2.8L II USM, EF 400/5.6L USM and Tamron 150-600/5-6.3 VC USD A011. Investigation of this issue is still in progress.
    – Fixed AF issue with EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM and EF-S 18-135/3.5-5.6 IS Nano USM lenses.
    – Fixed smooth iris support for 40/2.8 STM, 50/1.8 STM and Sigma 50-100/1.8 DC HSM Art 016.
    – Fixed CN-E 18-80 T4.4 L IS KAS S servo zoom used by the camera’s zoom rocker and the lens’ rocker in alternation.
    – Fixed CN-E 18-80 T4.4 L IS KAS S auto iris when adapter is in Green mode, where extremely bright conditions no longer causes the iris to close completely.
    – Fixed aperture display with Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM lens and Kenko Pro 300 teleconvertter.
    – Corrected W-T zoom scale display in “Advanced” mode for Speed Booster and Kenko Pro 300 teleconverter (except Mark I/II/III and original Speed Booster).
    – Faster aperture diaphragm for still photography in Advanced mode when Live Vide mode is set to Setting Effect OFF.
    – LED (if available) now shows solid magenta when adapter is connected to USB waiting for Metabones App to run.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: shooting the streets of Tokyo with the X-T20

16 Jun

We’re fans of the Camera Store TV and their highly-entertaining , informative videos. We also think Chris and Jordan are genuinely nice dudes. The duo was recently flown out to Japan by Fujifilm and while there they reviewed the X-T20, both in the streets of Tokyo and while touring a Fujifilm factory.

The video is full of useful information and observations about the camera, from the field. By the end it becomes pretty clear that Chris really enjoys using the X-T20 for travel and street photography. And we tend to agree.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Shooting experience: how the Nikon D7500 won me over

13 Jun
Initially, the D7500 was going to be my secondary camera for a music festival I was shooting, and the D750 was going to be my primary. But ultimately I ended up using the D7500 more.

The arrival of the Nikon D7500 to our office coincided with one of my favorite annual Seattle events, the Big Building Bash, an all-day music festival held in the city’s industrial SoDo neighborhood.

Ordinarily I shoot music with a Nikon D750 and two primes, which vary depending on the space I’m shooting. I run a small publication – along with a group of contributors – documenting the DIY aspects of Seattle’s music community. This mostly means shooting in small, intimate spaces where multiple camera bodies or big lenses would likely raise an eyebrow or two.

But Big Building Bash is a bit more casual in nature than a show in someone’s living room, so I felt comfortable bringing two bodies. My kit included: The D750 with a 24mm F1.8G as my primary camera and the D7500 with an 85mm F1.8D as my secondary. Switching lenses between the two cameras effectively gave me four (equivalent) focal lengths.

Big Building Bash is a charming little music festival held under the West Seattle Bridge in SoDo’s warehouse district. It is a showcase of Seattle’s best up and coming music, with no real emphasis on a specific genre. This leads to a vast array of acts and shooting scenarios, with the strong sun cutting through highway overpass pillars and the occasional passing train engine only adding to the overall charm.

We got to the festival as the first bands on the schedule were starting to play. With attendees trickling in and the mid afternoon sun shining bright and direct, I started dialing in my preferred camera settings.

AF Fine Tune

I fired a couple of test shots with each camera and noticed that the 85mm on the D7500 was front-focused. No problem, the camera has auto AF Fine Tune. A nifty, though strangely hidden feature that automatically corrects front or back focus. It’s great for primes, but less useful for zooms, as only one adjustment value can be saved. A quick Google search pulled up our own video, revealing how to unlock this feature. Within moments my 85mm was perfectly calibrated. It was time to get shooting!

I found myself switching the two lenses back and forth between my camera bodies. I’d forgotten how much I enjoy shooting with both a crop sensor and full frame body. The reach of the 85mm on the D7500 proved extremely useful and I appreciated also being able to go as wide as 24mm with the D750. However 35mm is probably my favorite focal length, so the 24mm on the D7500 was also a joy to use.

3D tracking

I’m a creature of the night, and adjusting to live music in a bright environment took some brain rewiring. Normally, I dial in all my settings manually including ISO, and shoot using AF-C and a single, manually chosen point (the center point if it’s really dark). Instead, I switched both cameras to Auto ISO and decided to give 3D tracking a go on the D7500.

The D7500, D7200 and D750 all use the same 51-point AF system. But each has a different metering sensor, which is also used for image recognition. The metering sensor in the D7500 is borrowed from the company’s flagship APS-C DSLR, the D500, and is the highest-res of the bunch: ninety times higher than the D7200 and twice that of the D750.

3D tracking allowed me the freedom to frame as I pleased, as long as my subject fell within the AF coverage area.

I’d used 3D tracking before while writing about the Nikon D5 and was impressed by its reliability. The D5 also uses the same resolution metering sensor as the D7500, but with triple the AF points. And while the D750 and D7500 use the same 51-point AF system, the AF area covers far more of the D7500’s APS-C sensor than it does on the full-frame D750. The limited AF area coverage and the generally low light nature of my work are the reasons I do not often use 3D tracking on my personal camera.

The AF coverage on the D7500 is the same as on the D7200. However the metering sensor, used for image recognition, has been substantially upgraded.

And my inexperience using/trusting 3D tracking on anything other than the company’s most expensive body lead me to commit the unholy act of ‘chimping’ several times during the first band. In my defense, I did this just to be absolutely certain I was actually getting sharp, in-focus shots. Thankfully Carey Rose has set the ‘OK’ button on the D7500 to zoom images in playback to 100% on the focus point. This made double checking sharpness quite simple.

This was one of the very first frames I shot on the D7500 using 3D tracking. Once I trusted its capability, I was free to concentrate on composition.

Once I felt I could trust the subject recognition, it didn’t take long to get hooked on using the D7500’s 3D tracking. The camera stuck to my subjects of choice with ease. And the 51-point AF system provided enough coverage so that I could even place subjects close to the edge of the frame.

‘It didn’t take long to get hooked on using the D7500’s 3D tracking. The camera stuck to my subjects of choice with ease.’

Ultimately 3D tracking freed me up from having to think about autofocus and allowed me to simply concentrate on composition and exposure, which in turn lead me to use the D7500 as my primary camera for the duration of the festival. That plus I liked the reach of the 85mm on it.

Drummers with long hair are photographic gold. I used the camera’s 8 fps continuous drive to try and get the perfect frame.

Burst, buffer and tilting touchscreen

I don’t normally shoot in continuous drive mode, but with an 8 fps burst and a super-deep buffer of 50 Raw files or 100+ JPEGs, I figured, I’d give it a try. An eccentric drummer provided the perfect opportunity to fire off a long burst. After looking back through those images, I decided to keep the camera in continuous drive mode for the duration of the festival, figuring I might as well come back with as many photos to choose from as possible.

The tilting touch LCD also proved useful: I use Live View on my D750 occasionally, but moving the AF point with the D-pad is a slow and annoying process. With the D7500 I could simply tap on the area I wanted to focus on. Of course, AF in Live View is contrast detect only, so speeds are a bit sluggish.

I used the tilting touch LCD to frame this shot toward the start of the show. This was the view from the beer garden. Did I mention the D7500 has great weather beer-sealing? Because it does.

Other takeaways

As the festival pressed onward, and I became comfortable with my chosen settings, I slipped into autopilot mode and simply tried to enjoy and photograph as many bands as possible. It wasn’t until hours later, with the sun dropping behind the buildings, that I started to lose my faith in 3D tracking and switched to old-fashioned AF-C using a single point. To be honest, switching back felt downright prehistoric after a full day of near-compositional freedom.

I ended up shooting over 8 hours and in that time I put away 2,542 images (Raw + JPEG) with 3/5 battery still left. Not bad for a camera with a CIPA rated battery life of 950 shots per charge.

This was one of the last frames I shot using 3D tracking. As the band Snuff Redux finished their set, the sun ducked behind the buildings and I switched back to AF-C using one point.

Ultimately, I brought the D7500 along to Big Building Bash thinking I’d get some time to test it for work. But I photographed the show primarily for my own purposes/publication and as such, getting the shot was paramount to testing gear. Still, if nothing else, I figured the D7500 would be a good compliment to my trusted D750. But it turns my D750 was more a compliment to the D7500.

Note: Images in this story are all JPEGs edited and occasionally cropped to taste (no ACR support yet). You can see the original out-of-camera JPEGs in the sample gallery below.

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Gallery: Shooting a music festival with the Nikon D7500

08 Jun

The Nikon D7500 uses the same sensor and processor as the APS-C flagship D500, as well as the same high-res metering sensor. Though the 51-point AF system is unchanged from the D7200, the camera is seriously capable when it comes to photographing quickly moving subjects: It can shoot as fast as 8 fps with continuous autofocus and has an impressive buffer of up to 50 continuous Raw files.

We brought it along to an all day music festival in Seattle’s SoDo neighborhood where challenging lighting coupled with lively musicians thrashing around gave us the perfect chance to push the camera’s abilities. We mostly shot using 3D tracking in various auto exposure modes and initial impressions are positive.

Of course, these images could benefit from a little time in ACR. Once we get Raw support, we’ll add conversions as well as more samples.

See our Nikon D7500 sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Long Shot 2017 is Saturday, June 10th. Will you be shooting?

08 Jun

Here in Seattle, we are pretty excited when summer arrives. Granted, the warm weather doesn’t actually get here until sometime in mid-July, but that doesn’t stop us from leaving the socks at home and heading out without a raincoat (and then complaining about the inevitable rain and hashtagging all of our Instagram photos with #junuary).

One of the ways we celebrate the coming of summer is with the Photographic Center Northwest’s (PCNW) Long Shot – a global 24-hour photo shoot that is open to anyone, anywhere, with any camera (yes, including your phone). Long Shot isn’t a competition; it’s an opportunity to take a day to focus on photography, share what you capture and see what other photographers are doing. It’s also a way PCNW raises awareness and funds to support its photographic mission.

Photo by Luke Peterson | Long Shot 2016

This year’s Long Shot is on Saturday, June 10th. Between 9AM Pacific on Saturday and 9AM Pacific on Sunday, participating photographers around the world ‘chase the light’. You photograph whatever you want, wherever you are. If you register (there is a $ 20 suggested donation), you can submit up to 5 favorite images from the day and a jury will pick one of your images to include in the annual Long Shot slideshow and pop-up exhibit in Seattle on June 17th. You don’t have to attend the pop-up to participate, and you don’t have to participate to attend the pop-up.

“Ode to 18th Century” by Anna Ream | Long Shot 2016

If you choose not to register, you can still take photographs and share them on social media using the hashtags #longshot2017, #photocenternw and #pcnw. Your images won’t be included in the slideshow or exhibit, but you’ll still be part of a worldwide community of photographers taking part in a fun event.

Take a look at the Long Shot 2016 slideshow to see what last year’s participants photographed. (Note: There are a lot of beards.) What will you photograph this year, if you participate?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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In praise of shooting monochrome landscapes

30 Apr

Taking color out of the equation forces the viewer to focus on shapes and textures

In an age of wide color gamut displays and HDR-everything, DPR regular Nicolas Alexander Otto urges his fellow landscape shooters to embrace shooting in black-and-white. Here are a few reasons why he embraces monochrome for landscape work – and thinks you should too.

Reducing imagery to its essentials, breaking it down to texture and shape, can help render the image more accessible to the eye. In this instance – a shot of the Iceland’s famous Vestrahorn – the patterns in the dunes leading the eye towards the mountain range in the distance are not visually overwritten by the color of the grass in the fore- and mid-ground thus stand out more and suffice to lend the foreground dynamism which might otherwise be not visible enough.

Taking color out of the equation forces the viewer to focus on shapes and textures

In this next example (above) the line work isn’t as important, but the different contrast areas with strong tonal differences are aided by the black and white treatment, enabling the small lighthouse to stand out as a visual anchor and helping to create a focus on the balance between the lighter slopes and dark areas on each side of the cliff.

You can emphasize what’s unique about the subject

I think an abundance of color can indeed sometimes distract from the motif in itself in regards to how it carves out the essence of a landscape. You may get sundown coloring or blue hour at every spot on earth, but a certain shape of rock might be unique to the place you’re shooting. If that’s what you want to capture, you may want to consider shooting black and white in order to prioritize forms over hues.

Pre-visualizing a scene in black and white can help you find better compositions

Pre-visualization is key. This means that photographers have to determine in field what the monochromatic image will look like after processing and decide on site how to compose and shoot accordingly. Subsequently, thinking in black and white may enable us to find better compositions; those which do not need color in the first place.

While I personally enjoy color as much as black and white, I often find myself trying to shut out color while composing, aiming to focus on the abstract rather than the concrete. This helps me to find my way around cluttered foregrounds or difficult light. It’s an approach I find helpful from time to time and would recommend trying, even though it may take some time to get used to (I guess everyone who has the option to use black and white directly in their live view is a lucky camper in this regard). Taking a picture and converting it in camera for a preview might be cumbersome but can be helpful as well.

Black and white promotes detachment from reality

A black and white image is always a departure from our inherent logical view of the world which is secondarily governed by color (primary is light and dark).

This entails certain freedoms such as to depart further from reality, which can be a liberating feeling as a photographer, opening up more creative possibilities. Often times a black and white image can simply ‘get away’ with more dramatic editing and capture technique since it is not regarded as a ‘authentic representation of reality’ as much as a color image.

You can be a bit more aggressive with processing

There’s a perception that editing images, in one way or another, deteriorates the character of the image. Black and white images however don’t seem to be subject to the same amount of critique because they are governed by a different frame of reference.

Take a look at more of Alex’s work and be sure to read our Readers’ Showcase Q&A with him.


Do you regularly shoot monochrome landscapes? Why do you embrace black-and-white? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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