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Posts Tagged ‘scene’

The new Honor 10 features portrait lighting and advanced scene recognition

17 May

Huawei has just launched the latest flagship model of its sub-brand Honor, and at 400 Euros (approximately $ 475) for the 64GB version or 450 Euros (approximately $ 530) for the 128GB variant, the Honor 10 offers the same Kirin 970 top-end chipset as Huawei’s flagships P20 and P20 Pro at a significantly lower price point.

The camera specifications are different to the Huawei models—unfortunately, there is no P20 Pro-like triple cam—but, at least on paper, the specs still look pretty good. The Honor 10 features a dual-camera setup that comes with a 16MP/F1.8 main camera and a 24MP monochrome secondary chip.

Image data from the latter is merged computationally with the main camera for advanced digital zoom, lower noise levels and better detail. And, of course, there’s a native monochrome mode as well.

Huawei puts a lot of emphasis on the camera software, too. As is currently en vogue, AI is used for object recognition, and the Honor 10 has 22 shooting modes that recognize and adjust to different objects and scenes in real time. However, the Honor 10 goes one step further than most similar systems.

It can identify several elements of a scene and optimize them individually, according to the context of the image. This can happen in real-time, thanks to dedicated Neural Processing Unit (NPU).

Finally, the Honor 10 also includes an Apple-like Portrait Lighting mode that works with both the rear cameras and the 24MP/F2.0 front-facing cam.

Other specs for the affordable flagship smartphone include 4 GB RAM, a 5.84-inch IPS LCD panel with Full HD+ resolution and 19:9 aspect ratio, and a 3,400 mAh battery. A 3.5mm headphone jack is included as well, but the phone does lack a memory expansion slot.

The Honor 10 is available in Europe starting today. No information for availability in other regions has been provided yet. To find out more, watch the video below or visit the Honor website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Xiaomi unveils Mi 6X with dual-camera and AI-powered scene detection

25 Apr

Dual-camera equipped devices have really been taking off this year, and with the Mi 6X, Chinese manufacturer Xiaomi has just thrown its hat into the dual-cam ring as well. As has been the norm with virtually all recent device launches, Xiaomi is putting a lot of emphasis on the Mi 6X camera capabilities: claiming the new model competes with rivals such as the iPhone X or OPPO R15 in the imaging department.

We’ll have to get hands on a test unit to confirm if that’s true, but the camera specs do look promising. The main camera uses a 1/2.9″12 MP Sony IMX486 sensor and F1.75 aperture lens. The secondary camera comes with a 1/2.78″ 20MP sensor and the same lens specifications as the main camera. Xiaomi says the secondary camera uses a 4-to-1 pixel binning mode for reduced noise levels. It is also deployed to generate a fake-bokeh portrait mode.

The front camera uses the same Sony IMX376 sensor as the secondary unit, which should ensure image quality that is a cut above your average small-sensor front camera.

It’s not all about hardware, though. Like some other recent high-end devices, the Mi 6X uses artificial intelligence to detect more than 200 scene types and adjust camera settings automatically—including 12 different portrait scenes. According to Xiaomi, the AI algorithms are capable of learning, providing better detail and subject separation in portrait mode the longer you use it.

Non-camera specifications include a Qualcomm Snapdragon 660 chipset, 4/64 GB, 6/64 GB, and 6/128 GB memory combinations and a 5.99-inch LCD display with Full HD+ resolution. Security is covered with a fingerprint reader on the back and Face Unlock support.

Pricing is in line with Xiaomi’s tagline: “the same specifications, at half the price.” In China, prices start from CNY 1,599 (approximately $ 250 USD) which, considering the specifications, makes the Mi 6X an enticing option. The global version of the device will likely be called Mi A2 but no international pricing information has been provided yet.

More information, including some camera samples, is available on the Xiaomi website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

02 Apr

My wife can be very unkind about my photography. She’ll often flick through my edits and ask me where the good shots are… I don’t think she has cottoned on to the fact that us creative types are deeply sensitive.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

She said to me recently:

Wouldn’t it be amazing to show people how many bad shots you take before you get any good ones?

She is most obviously not a photographer…

But then I started to think about how much time we photographers spend putting out our very best work, and only our best work – as we should!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I started to think that perhaps she was right. Maybe it would be good to show you the photos I took before I got the shot before I nailed it. Definitely a good teaching idea.

There’s a book I love by Magnum photographers who published a collection of their contact sheets. It shows all the mediocre shots of some of the great masters of the art. That is kind of reassuring, right? If even the masters can’t get it right with one shot, there’s hope for the rest of us!

But also shows the process of refining an interesting scene into a great shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Photographic composition is all about being able to see interesting elements out there in the world and arranging them in a pleasing, interesting way. That sounds easy enough, right?

Here are some examples of what kinds of things I notice – and how I work the shot from being a good to great composition.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Scene One

I was in Hong Kong and I was totally awed by the density of skyscrapers, the busy port, intensely colorful lights and the tropical weather.

I am usually a great lover of capturing the emptiness of cities at first light – but for me, Hong Kong was all about evening and nighttime. The play of lights and finding intriguing moments to capture amongst the density of excitement of the city became my goal.

Walking around on my first evening in Hong Kong I saw a red sign in the blue twilight that caught my eye. It had a great contrast of colors. I noticed a nice shapely arrangement of skyscrapers in the distance that created an impressive background across the image.

I’d use a wide aperture to make them a bit soft and create more depth with my red sign. Good start, I’m thinking!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But this isn’t very interesting, right? So I tell myself, “Stop fixating on the red!” Red does tend to keep our attention longer than it really deserves. I start to look around for something else to add to the frame because the elements I have so far are not super-interesting.

I ask myself, “Where are the balance and harmony? Why did I cut my subject in half? Was I so drawn to the skyscrapers that my subject became a secondary thought?”

Yes, that is what I did. I fixated on the red sign and I took a rubbish shot because of it. Where was all my great compositional skill? The image could definitely be improved. So, I move around the scene and moved back.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Okay, this is getting better. Although – can you see in the top right-hand corner there is a little wedge of something. Now I know you can remove things in post-production – but I always aim to get the frame as perfect as possible in camera. It’s more fun for me that way. Plus, if you aren’t checking your corners you are not considering the whole frame, the whole composition.

There is one important point that is obvious here which I tell all of my students – check your corners! I am a believer that you will not create consistently great images if you do not practice total photography. Your subject is only one piece of the perfect puzzle you are attempting to create.

That image you have in your head needs to be constructed – all the pieces assembled with intent. This is a skill separate from camera skills that you must also practice. Just keep shooting with intent and it will come.

Getting back to my images, “Now I’m getting somewhere” I thought. These elements next to the sign, including the circular mirror (why didn’t I see that first? I blame the red!) and the orange light look very compelling to me. So I recompose ever so slightly…

That time though the orange light was off – it was blinking! It took me several frames to get the timing right and capture the orange light.

So after a few minutes of working the scene, I end up with this:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Bang! Now, this is the one. Can you see what’s different in this shot? What I got by moving a little more, and also by timing the shot just right?

You want to get the most impact with every element in your photo. And those details in the mirror are very cool.  You can see how I made the reflection really pop in post-production by creating a circular mask just on the mirror and increasing the contrast, exposure, and clarity some. Sweet.

Scene two

I was in a very industrial part of the city. There were shipping containers everywhere and signs of work around the port. It was an intriguing scene because the ubiquitous skyscrapers were looming in the background.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But the first shot I took, above, is not very interesting, even with decent composition (again it was me thinking that red is really good!) Can you see where I might have thought that there are some interesting elements here that I could work to juxtapose?

I walked up a little further and some vests caught my eye which could be juxtaposed with a backdrop of buildings. But the next shot is not right either.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I saw the work vests and the skyscrapers and thought of the disparity of wealth in this world, especially in cities like Hong Kong – it’s staggering! I got the idea to juxtapose these elements and work a narrative into the image (always a good idea).

I also like this contrast of imagery. You have the workers’ vests draped over the rails – almost like they are exhausted – with the strength and power of the vertical lined building next to them. There is lots of structure contrasted against the softness (weakness) of the workers’ vests.

Even if the narrative was coming together, the photo was not. So I moved around and see what else I could conjure up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

In the shot above I moved back and took in a wider view of the scene. I was really liking this now. The shape of the shipping containers shot at this angle, with the skyscrapers looming in the background works. I still had that strong structure but now with the addition of dynamic lines. Juicy!

I wasn’t totally happy yet – the balance was still not right between the foreground and the background. I needed balance to make the composition neutral and let the viewer pick a side, so to speak.

So I moved a bit more and then – bang – I got the shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I am proud of this shot because it displays some of my favourite techniques to compose with – line and form.  These all help to construct a narrative.

I often see people on my workshops who will work a scene, but they stop before they have taken their very best shot because they are thinking “Oh, I can work this in post-production. I can crop it, etc.” Or they’re thinking that it’s “good enough”.

Working to find the very best composition definitely pays off. You will never regret spending those extra minutes just being still and looking at a scene for angles and new ideas. You need to make that kind of effort all of the time. And don’t forget to use your imagination. Make up a story. Open yourself to random crazy thoughts. You never know where they may take you creatively.

The cool thing is – you’re loving every moment because you’re out making images. What could be better right?

Scene Three

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

This last series of images was taken in Havana, Cuba. I was walking about with my assistant just absorbing some back streets when we came upon this scene with the factory smokestack over a residential neighborhood. Ouch! The light couldn’t have been better – it was just before sunset and the light was very warm.

My first instinct when I come upon something that strikes me is to take a shot. I think we all do it. But it is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as you accept that there is more to be done.

So I took the reactionary shot above. Dull and uninspired I thought. After looking at the scene a little more I felt motivated to get something, anything else.

I had a dedicated flash on my camera for some other types of images I was making so took this next shot, with the idea of getting a great image with the smoke. But this too was more of a reaction to the young man in the frame – maybe if I timed it right I would get a good pose.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Nope.

I realized at that point that I was shooting way too wide for what I saw in my head as a vision for this scene. It wasn’t totally clear what that was yet but I knew those first two shots were not it. No way.

I kept moving towards the smoke (at that point our eyes started to itch and our mouths had the taste of bad oil). Next, I took this image:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

The man on the fourth floor stands out to me but not to my lens. Way too wide for that – still, this is somewhat better than the previous two shots. I didn’t really want to take an image of the old man sitting at the bottom left of the frame. It is really not my style to be invasive without being social to people first and I was interested in the smoke (fixated really).

At that point, though (a good 3-4 minutes since the first frame shot), I was after a great image. So I took one of the old guy sitting down (I said hello first):

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Better. This is a very good image but I wanted one where the smoke was more prominent. I knew I could create that image in my head if I just kept looking for it. So I walked a bit more. I still had my 17-40mm on the camera (I believe it or not, that was all I had with me) and got really close to the smokestack, regardless of my burning eyes and itchy skin.

But right underneath the smokestack, it became substantially more ominous and horrible and I instantly knew how I felt about it – confused and frightened. So I took this last shot and was really pleased with it.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

It is an odd composition without a lot of “rules”, which I feel is reflected well in the chaotic nature of the wires and the industrialness of the location, even though there were children practically under my feet. Finally, I got my smoke!

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed that little meander through my shots. I like to think that turning my head inside out can give you a bit of insight into the creative process.

Here are the key ideas points covered in this article:

  • Find a subject or scene that you are fascinated by.
  • Work the scene until you have the best shot you can get.
  • Move around!
  • Be patient – wait for the best light, best weather, interesting people or expressions – whatever it takes.
  • Have perseverance.
  • Use your imagination to create narratives. Open up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I would love to know if you found this process I go through to capture my shots useful? Does it help to see that we all take a bunch of boring shots? Taking photos is more than just pressing a shutter (anyone can do that), but an artist is something we all are inside and photography is our journey/path in finding that inner artist.

Please comment below and let me know what you have learned or how this might have helped you. Thanks!

The post Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Sony a7 III studio scene published

21 Mar

The Sony a7 III is a 24MP full frame mirrorless camera with a BSI CMOS sensor. It’s the third generation of Sony’s entry-level full frame camera but it comes with a significant number of the features and improvements introduced with the pro sports a9 model.

On paper, at least, the specifications look like an impressive all-rounder, with very little in the way of corner-cutting to keep the camera down to a certain price or capabilities omitted to avoid cannibalizing the sales of more expensive models.

Key Features:

  • 24MP full frame BSI CMOS sensor
  • 93% AF coverage (693 phase detection points, 425 for contrast detection)
  • Oversampled 4K/24p video taken from full width 6K (cropped-in 5K for 30p)
  • In-body image stabilization
  • 10 fps continuous shooting
  • 2.36m dot OLED viewfinder
  • AF joystick
  • Touchscreen
  • Larger, ‘Z-type’ battery
  • Dual SD card slots
  • USB 3.1 Type C

Stills

The move to a BSI CMOS sensor, combined with the adoption of the latest technologies, such as dual gain design promises improved low light performance, compared with the somewhat under-performing chips in the previous models.

The Eye AF function, which finds and focuses on eyes within the scene makes extremely simple to shoot in-focus portraits.

Video

The a7 series is the last in Sony’s lineup to receive 4K video capture, but gets one of the best implementations, as a result. It can read the full width of its sensor (roughly 6000 x 3375 pixels) then process and downsample the footage, resulting in higher detail levels than would be possible shooting with a 3840 x 2160 pixel sensor. This

Beyond this, the a7 III has all the other video support tools and features Sony tends to include: focus peaking to aid manual focus, zebra warnings to help guide exposure and the ability to display a corrected preview when shooting Log footage.

Ergonomics

The a7 III gains the same body as the a7R III, giving it a more substantial grip and an autofocus joystick on the rear plate. There’s also an extra custom button on the left rear shoulder. By default this acts as a ‘Protect’ button for ensuring your favorite images don’t get deleted but there’s also the option to assign it to rate images, with a menu option to select how many rating steps are used.

As with the other recent Sonys, you can assign different functions to each custom button for stills and playback (and video?)

There’s also a touchscreen, primarily used for setting the AF point, either as a touchpad, when the camera is to your eye, or for direct selection when it isn’t.

Compared to its peers:

Sony a7m3 Sony a7m2 Sony a7Rm3 Nikon D750 Pentax K-1 II
MSRP (body only) $ 2000 $ 1700 $ 3200 $ 2300 $ 2000
Pixel Count 24MP 24MP 42.4MP 24MP 36.4MP
CMOS type BSI FSI BSI FSI FSI
Cont. shooting rate (fps) 10 10 6.5
Rear LCD res
Rear LCD articulation Tilt up/down Tilt up/down Tilt up/down Tilt up/down Tilt up/down
Viewfinder magn. 0.78x 0.71x 0.78x 0.70x 0.70x
Viewfinder res (dots) 2.36m 2.36m 3.69m N/A N/A
Highest video res UHD 4K/30p 1080/60p UHD 4K/30p 1080/60p 1080/30p (as 60i)
Max bitrate 100 Mbps 50 Mbps 100 Mbps ~24 Mbps ~20 Mbps
Mic / Headphn Yes / Yes Yes / Yes Yes / Yes Yes / Yes Yes / Yes

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Use ND Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

12 Feb

Photography is the art of capturing light. In many instances, harnessing the light and properly exposing a scene means controlling it first. This is necessary for many landscape scenes where contrast is high. You have likely seen high contrast many times: a sunset with dark foreground elements, a church with deep shadows, or a moonrise over a snow-filled background. Each of these situations (and many others like it) will present a challenge for you to overcome.

One of the tools that you have at your disposal to alter the amount of light hitting your camera’s sensor is neutral density filters (ND). These dark gray pieces of glass come in many styles (graduated, 1-stop, 2-stop, 10-stop, etc.) and do not alter the color of your image but do restrict the amount of light.

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

I stacked a Graduated ND filter and ND Stopper for this image to control the gray sky and flatten the water around the island with a long exposure.

They provide an opportunity to control your exposure or create long exposures that emphasize static elements. This article will focus on Graduated ND filters that are clear on one half and dark on the other, as well as ND stoppers which are completely dark.

You can find more info here on dPS for learning about the fundamentals of using in ND filters. The rest of this article will focus on a few creative ways that you can experiment with ND filter angles, grades, and techniques to create unique shots.

Stack ‘em

You can easily combine ND filters to control more light in the scene as filter holders usually have more than one slot for multiple filters. Having multiple slots is a huge advantage because it allows you to stack filters on top of each other to control the light.

Be sure to think about creative combinations of filters to give you the most out of a scene. For instance, you may want to shoot a really long exposure to flatten out the water in a sunset, or you may want to control very bright highlights such as the sun. The table below outlines some of the possibilities that stacking filters can provide you.

ND GRADUATED ND STOPPER
GRADUATED FILTERS Graduated ND filters can be stacked on top of each other to control light and feathering at the horizon. Try stacking a hard-edged grad with a soft-edged grad to control more light high in the scene and then feather into a lighter foreground. An ND stopper filter will evenly stop out the light in the scene. You still need to control the highlights! Add an ND grad to control highlights in the scene and bring up the foreground shadows.
ND STOPPER You can combine an ND stopper with a flipped ND grad (i.e, put the dark side of the grad on the bottom). This approach is non-conventional but could be used if your highlights are at the bottom of a scene. See the Flip ‘em section of this article for more. Stacking ND stoppers on top of each other can give you very long (>1 minute) exposures even in the brightest conditions. This is a great tool for you to use to extend creativity mid-day.
How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

For this image, the boats in the harbor were important to complement the sunrise overhead. I stacked a Graduated ND filter and ND Stopper to control the sunrise and raise the foreground shadows.

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

Preserving foreground highlights and shooting sunbursts can be difficult because of the extremely high contrast. I double-stacked graduated filters for this shot to give me a firm control of the highlights (the sun) and maintain the snowy landscape in front.

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

This image was captured on a cold night in Minnesota (about -25F). At those temperatures, the sky after sunset has a purple hue, which was exacerbated by the double-stacked graduate filters that I used to control the light of the moon and allow you to see its craters.

Rotate ‘em

ND filter holders rotate easily around the lens giving you flexibility in the angle you choose. ND graduated filters are often aligned to the horizon by the photographer. This makes great sense if you have a flat horizon, but what if a mountain range is sticking up in front of you? You can take a little bit of creative license and easily align the ND filters to the angle of the mountains. Examine your scene and think about how the orientation and filters could emphasize foreground elements or draw the viewer’s eye.

In the images of Nugget Falls (below) in Juneau, Alaska I shot one image with a graduated filter flipped with the dark side of the sky and one over the falls. Although I personally prefer the images with the brighter falls, you can see how the lighter sky draws your eye to the mountain and glacier beyond the falls.

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

Hold ‘em

Let’s face it, you are not going to have a filter holder for every lens in your kit. However, that does not mean you cannot use filters! You can also hand hold a filter in front of your lens in a pinch.

I recommend that you mount your camera on a tripod before trying to hand hold filters. It will make them the easier to handle and allow you to compose your scene before adding the filter.

How to Use Neutral Density Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene

I was not carrying a filter holder for a 100mm lens, but handheld the filter on this shot to raise the foreground shadows. Sometimes you have to make due with what you have.

Practicing in the Field

As you begin to use and experiment with ND filters you are going to grow as a photographer. Keep creativity in mind to give your shots a distinguished and unique look. As I like to say, “pixels are cheap” so be sure to make lots of pixels as you experiment with your ND filters.

I would love to hear how you have extended your photography through creative uses of ND filters.

The post How to Use ND Filters Creatively to Make the Most of a Scene by Ian Johnson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5S added to studio scene comparison

15 Jan

Our test scene is designed to simulate a variety of textures, colors and detail types you’ll encounter in the real world. It also has two illumination modes to see the effect of different lighting conditions.

$ (document).ready(function() { ImageComparisonWidget({“containerId”:”reviewImageComparisonWidget-17234702″,”widgetId”:585,”initialStateId”:null}) })

We’re hard at work on our review of Panasonic’s video-focused Lumix DC-GH5S and have added it to our studio comparison tool. Here’s a quick look$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-3892–2071317688”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(3892); }); }) at how it stacks up against the GH5 at very high sensitivities, and another versus Sony’s a7S II$ (document).ready(function() { $ (“#icl-3893-1117426504”).click(function() { ImageComparisonWidgetLink(3893); }); }).

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III added to studio test scene comparison

09 Dec

Testing of the Canon G1 X Mark III is well underway, inside of the studio and out. We’ve just added it to our test scene comparison tool, where you can take a look at its performance side-by-side against peers like the Sony Cyber-shot RX100 V.

See the Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III in our studio scene comparison tool

See our Canon PowerShot G1 X Mark III sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony a7R III added to studio scene comparison

17 Nov

We’ve had our hands on the Sony a7R III for about a week now, and the camera has quickly impressed our reviewers both in the studio and on the road. Currently, a couple of our staffers are traipsing around Arizona capturing beautiful photos we’ll soon be adding to our a7R III sample gallery, but back in Seattle we wasted no time putting the camera in front of our standard studio test scene.

See how the Sony a7R III stacks up against its closest competitors by clicking the button below. And don’t forget to compare the a7R III’s Pixel Shift Multi Shooting mode against the Pentax K-1’s (both are available in the studio scene tool). Pentax debuted the first full-frame pixel-shift tech with the K-1 in February of 2016; has Sony managed to improve upon it with their version?

See the Sony a7R III in our studio scene comparison tool

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nikon D850 added to studio scene comparison

29 Sep

We’ve had some time to get to know the Nikon D850 and so far it’s safe to say we’ve been really impressed. Its low ISO dynamic range is class-leading, and it has proven so far to be a versatile tool for shooting everything from wedding receptions to white water rapid kayaking. We’ve also had a chance to put it in front of our standard studio test scene for your viewing pleasure – see how its 46 megapixels look side-by-side with its peers.

See the Nikon D850 in our studio scene comparison tool

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nature Sets the Scene in Hot River, Iceland

27 Sep

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