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Posts Tagged ‘Read’

CalDigit launches new, rugged 512GB ‘Tuff nano’ USB-C SSDs with 1055MB/s read speeds

23 Oct

Computer accessory manufacturer CalDigit has released its ‘Tuff nano’ series, a lineup of compact external USB-C SSDs.

As the name alludes to, the ‘Tuff nano’ SSDs feature a protective rubber housing around a metal frame, akin to Lacie’s rugged external drives. This design offers a certified IP67 rating with the ability to be submerged under one meter of water for 30 minus, as well as dust and shock resistance.

Inside, the bus-powered SSDs is a Toshiba M.2 NVMe SSD capable of read and write speeds up to 1055MB/s and 900MB/s, respectively. Data is transferred via USB-C (USB 3.2 Gen 2) and although the drives come pre-formatted for macOS (HFS+), they will also work with ChromeOS, iPadOS, Linux and Windows devices.

The drives measure 7.59cm x 5.44cm x 1.45 cm (2.99in x 2.14in x 0.57in) and weigh just 74g (0.163lbs).

CalDigit’s ‘Tuff nano’ SSDs are currently available in 512GB capacity for $ 149.95 on CalDigit’s online store. Color options include ‘Charcoal Black,’ ‘Olive Green,’ ‘Royal Blue’ and ‘Tomato Red.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Thinking about the Panasonic Lumix DC-G95 for video? Read this first

06 Apr
The G95 is being promoted as a video and stills camera, yet its video is more heavily cropped than the G85’s was.

Thanks to its groundbreaking GH series of cameras, Panasonic has developed a reputation for being one of the strongest brands for consumer video. But the release of the Lumix DC-G95 (known as the G90 outside North America) just draws attention to the fact that brand perception doesn’t necessarily convey those qualities across the lineup.

We’ve got used to Panasonic cameras delivering 4K capture from crops of their sensors but it’s beginning to look especially egregious on the G95 for a number of reasons. For a start, we know that Panasonic can do better: the G9 proves that the company is able to provide full-width video. Secondly, Panasonic is explicitly pitching this camera for video as well as stills (the addition of headphone socket and V-LogL speak just as loudly as the press release, in this respect).

But, most pressingly, the standard of the competition has risen: the Fujifilm X-T30 can shoot 4K/30p from a much larger sensor region with no crop (and none of the rolling shutter that holds back Sony’s offering in the class).

The challenges/balances of 4K video

This isn’t easy, of course. Every manufacturer faces a series of challenges (mainly in terms of processing power, battery consumption, heat generation and rolling shutter), and there are various solutions to this problem.

We’ve tried to summarize the trade-offs that each possible solution brings:

Detail level Noise performance Angle of view Processing demand
Full-width Oversampling High High Minimal crop Highest
Pixel Binning Moderate High Minimal crop Moderate
Line Skipping Low (risks moiré) Low Minimal crop Low
Cropped Oversampling High Moderate Some crop High
1:1 Capture Moderate Low Some crop Low

The G95 essentially takes the fifth option here: using a central chunk of its sensor to capture roughly the number of pixels required to produce its 3840 x 2160 video. This isn’t very demanding in terms of processing, so its rolling shutter performance is good and you’ll very rarely need to worry about overheating. But there are significant drawbacks, too.

The G95 / G90 already has a sensor that’s smaller than its APS-C peers, using less than half of it in 4K video mode (area indicated in blue) puts it at a further disadvantage.

The first is angle of view. The roughly 4100 x 2300 pixel region of its 20MP sensor that is used for 4K is pretty small: imposing a significant 1.25x crop. This means that the 12mm ‘wide’ end of the kit zoom ends up giving an angle of view closer to a 30mm lens on full frame, rather than the usefully wide 24mm equiv. it’ll give you in stills mode. That’s likely to be a major creative restriction.

Worse still is the effect on image quality and noise performance. Only using a crop of a sensor is, in essence, the same as using a smaller-sensored camera. The G95 uses a sensor region nearer that of a 1″-type sensor, which means you get noise performance comparable to a smaller (and probably cheaper) camera.

Reality ? reputation

Panasonic is far from alone in offering cameras with disappointing video, despite being well thought-of in this regard. Canon built a reputation for video with its EOS 5D II, but appears to have struggled to live up to it (in its consumer cameras at least). Even Sony, which was first to provide video features such as Log capture seems stuck with 8-bit capture at a time when other brands are providing 10-bit and is still introducing cameras with significant rolling shutter. And, though Fujifilm is beginning to build a reputation for great video, it’s still happy to promote some models as having ‘4K’ when they can only shoot a pitiful 15 frame per second.

Why is this suddenly a big deal?

There are still plenty of people who are adamant that they don’t want video, and perhaps there’s something inherently unfair about expecting every aspect of a new model to exceed the best performance we’ve seen in its class (rather than just showing strengths and weaknesses relative to each specific rival). But to our eyes, the increased crop of the G95’s video doesn’t fit with our expectations of a contemporary camera being pitched as a stills / video tool. Especially not compared to a camera it nominally sits above, and from a company that trades to a degree on its video expertise.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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CFexpress Type B memory cards double read speed to 1.7GBps, write speed to 1.4GBps

03 Mar

Sony has announced it will introduce the next generation CFexpress memory cards this summer, and promises read speeds of up to 1.7GB per second and write speeds up to 1.48GB/s. The Type B cards will use the third generation PCI-E interface that allows them to read and write at twice the rates of current models.

To make the most of the new cards a faster card reader will be launched — called the MRW-G1 — that will be backward compatible with existing CFexpress cards as well as XQD memory cards. The new cards will be more drop-proof than their predecessors and will be able to withstand a force of 70N.

The cards are aimed at industrial users as well as professional photographers. The first cards will come in a capacity of 128GB, but later units will offer 256GB and 512GB of space. For more information see the Sony website and the Compact Flash Association.

Press release:

Sony develops CFexpress Type B memory card boasting ultra-fast read and write speeds of up to 1700MB/s[1] and 1480MB/s1

  • Incomparably fast speed, designed for professional and industrial use, supports future evolution of digital devices
  • High reliability in extreme conditions thanks to TOUGH performance and smart software
  • New Sony CFexpress card reader, MRW-G1, takes full advantage of Sony CFexpress Type B’s high-speed performance
  • The Sony CFexpress Type B memory card and the CFexpress Card Reader will be in the market in early summer 2019

Sony today announced the development of the CFexpress Type B memory card (CEB-G128), a new ultra-fast next generation memory card2 that is ideal for professional and industrial use. With its super-fast speed of up to 1700MB/s (read) along with highly reliable toughness, this memory card supports the future evolution of digital devices.

Enhancing Sony’s high performance, value-added memory card line-up, the CFexpress Type B is designed based on a new specification which adopts the latest interface, PCIe®3 Gen3, standardised by the CompactFlash Association.

The Sony CFexpress Type B memory card offers a 128GB capacity, with higher capacity models of 256 GB and 512 GB planned for the future.

Incomparably fast
The Sony CFexpress Type B memory card is around 3 times faster than Sony’s fastest CFast memory card (with 530MB/s read speed). With a write speed of up to 1480MB/s, this card meets future requirement needs for secure industry data-recording or requirements from professionals to capture hi-resolution images or high-bitrate video.

With an ultra-fast read speed of up to 1700MB/s, even large-sized data files can be transferred quickly, when compared to existing memory cards. For example, when making copies or backing up large-sized data from multiple memory cards, transfer time will be dramatically reduced. This greatly improves work efficiency.

The new CFexpress Card Reader, MRW-G1, is optimised for Sony CFexpress Type B memory card and takes full advantage of the card’s fast read speed. This reader is also compatible with Sony XQD card G series and M series.

TOUGH performance
The Sony CFexpress Type B memory card has superior strength, surpassing the CFexpress standard by a factor of three, being able to withstand 70N of force in bend, and five times greater withstanding falls from up to 5m high.

The card is also temperature proof, X-ray proof, anti-static and has a UV guard so it can perfectly support usage in tricky or tough environments.

Peace of mind
Media Scan Utility and Memory Card File Rescue are available as a free download to Sony CFexpress card users.

Media Scan Utility is PC software that automatically scans your Sony CFexpress memory card every time you connect it to a PC via your MRW-G1 card reader4. The software keeps you informed of the condition of your card and lets you know if you’re nearing or have reached the flash memory limit.

Memory Card File Rescue eradicates every photographer’s worst nightmare – deleting photos accidentally and losing your precious work. The software recovers accidentally deleted files including RAW or high-resolution images and videos, so your work is safe from whatever obstacles are thrown your way.

The Sony CFexpress Type B memory card and the CFexpress MRW-G1 Card Reader will be on the market in early summer 2019.

– Ends –

[1] Based on Sony internal testing. Actual performance may vary and is dependent on environment and usage.
2 Based on memory card standard announced from the CompactFlash Association in 2017 as the next generation of XQD memory card and CFast memory card. CompactFlash is a trademark of CompactFlash Association.
3 PCIe is a registered trademark of PCI-SIG.
4 MRW-G1 is required to scan Sony CFexpress memory card

[1] Based on Sony internal testing. Actual performance may vary and is dependent on environment and usage.
2 Based on memory card standard announced from the CompactFlash Association in 2017 as the next generation of XQD memory card and CFast memory card. CompactFlash is a trademark of CompactFlash Association.

3 PCIe is a registered trademark of PCI-SIG.
4 MRW-G1 is required to scan Sony CFexpress memory card

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Apple launches its 2019 ‘Shot on iPhone’ contest, but don’t forget to read the fine print

24 Jan
Shot on iPhone 6s by Mariko Klug.

Apple is launching its 2019 ‘Shot on iPhone’ photo contest by inviting iPhone photographers to submit their best photographs shot on an Apple device. Photos can be submitted from now to February 7th and will be judged by an impressive panel including photographer Pete Souza and Annet de Graaf, as well as Apple’s VP of Marketing Phil Schiller and head of camera software team Jon McCormack. Apple says winning images will be featured on billboards in select cities, Apple retail stores and online.

Shot on iPhone 6 by Mandy Blake.

To participate you can post images on Instagram or Twitter using the hashtag #ShotOniPhone. In the image caption you should note which iPhone model it was captured with. Alternatively images can be submitted by emailing them in full resolution to shotoniphone@apple.com with the file format ‘firstname_lastname_iphonemodel.’ Photos can be straight out of the camera or edited.

If you’re thinking about submitting your photos you should probably have a look at official rules on the Apple website, to make sure you know what participation in the contest means for your images. Photographers are essentially handing over exclusive commercial ownership of their images in exchange for photo credit. In a post on Reddit, photographer Trevor Mahlmann shared his thoughts on the campaign and the issues he noticed with the fine print.

Shot on iPhone 7 by Erdem Summak.

In the fine print Apple says: ‘you retain your rights to your photograph; however, by submitting your photo, you grant Apple a royalty-free, world-wide, irrevocable, non-exclusive license for one year to use, modify, publish, display, distribute, create derivative works from and reproduce the photo on Apple Newsroom, apple.com, Twitter, Instagram, in Apple retail stores, Weibo, WeChat, on billboards and any Apple internal exhibitions. Any photograph reproduced will include a photographer credit.’

The company goes on to say: ‘If your photo is selected to be featured on a billboard, you further agree to grant Apple exclusive commercial use of the photo for the life of the license.’

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!)

18 Dec

The post How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Camera manuals are notoriously difficult to read and understand. Often they are not read as much, or as well, as they should be. You need to read your camera manual because it contains vital information that will help you to become a better photographer.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Night Camera

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Just as we need to learn the alphabet before we can learn to read and write, we must learn the basics of operating our cameras in order to take the best photos we can.

Reading it from cover to cover is not necessary. There will not be a test on how much you can remember.

The best way to use your camera manual

Begin to skim with your camera in your hands. Look through the contents and take note of what’s covered. Mark which items you think may be of particular interest to you. Some you will be able to just glance over. Others may be just painfully obvious, like this from the Nikon D800 manual;

“When operating the viewfinder diopter adjustment control with your eye to the viewfinder, care should be taken not to put your finger in your eye accidentally.”

I would add that it’s always a good idea not to put your finger in your eye, even when you are not adjusting your diopter.

If you’ve just bought a new camera and it’s a model you’re not familiar with, you’ll need to pay more attention to the manual. For camera users who are upgrading you will be best to scan the book for what’s been upgraded since your previous model. Sometimes these may be highlighted.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Camera In Hand

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Break your reading down into bite-size chunks. Don’t attempt to read and understand everything you need to know about your camera in one sitting. It’s a complex piece of equipment. Spread your reading out over a few days or a week.

Give yourself time to practice what you are reading about. Getting hands-on experience will help you retain what you’re learning about and make it much more relatable.

Do not read it all

Choose to learn the essentials first. Find out how to focus it and set the exposure well. There will be various options available to you. Start reading about the ones most applicable to the way you like to photograph.

If you are completely new to photography and not yet sure which exposure mode you prefer, take some time to read through all the options.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Happy Photographer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Getting a good start by understanding the basics of your camera leaves you freer to concentrate on photography. Don’t be filling your mind with more than you need to know. At the start you are not likely to need information about producing video, making multiple exposures or how to adjust the customs settings on your camera. These things can wait until you can find your way around your camera comfortably.

Carry your manual with you

Download a PDF of your camera manual to your phone. Take it with you everywhere so you can refer to it when you get stuck with a camera setting.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Chinese Woman Photographer

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Practical application of the information contained in this little book will help you get to know your camera better. But only if you use it well. Hands on is best.

Once it’s on your phone you can take a few minutes to read a little more on the bus or train or whenever you have a few minutes to spare.

Consider buying a book specifically about your camera (that’s not the manual)

I have purchased books and resources about cameras I own by Thom Hogan. Thom is well known for his incredibly detailed writing about Nikon cameras. I find he’s much easier to read than the camera manuals.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Learning Photography

©Pansa Landwer-Johan

His books are well laid out and the information is broken down so it’s readily consumed.

This may be beyond the needs or wants of many photographers, but for those who have the time and want the resources, picking up a book, other than your camera manual will help advance you towards better picture taking.

Aim to be able to forget it all

As you become more confident and competent with your camera, you will have little need for your camera manual. Well, I would hope that before long you have put what you’ve read to good use and can remember it effortlessly.

How To Read Your Camera Manual Camera In Hand 2

©Pansa Landwer-Johan

Having the ability to pick up your camera and have it ready to take photos in any situation is well worth aiming for. The more you can concentrate on what’s happening in front of you the better photos you’ll obtain.

Gazing down at the camera in your hands as you try and figure out which settings you want to use leads to you missing out. You may be able to take your best photos when you are focused more on what you are making photographs about than what you are making them with.

The post How To Read Your Camera Manual (and why you really, really should!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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Taking your drone to a wedding? Read this first

20 Apr

Best practices for flying your drone at weddings

It’s spring, and that means wedding season is upon us!* If you’re one of the many photographers planning wedding shoots this year, it’s also a great time to think about including aerial photography in your plans.

A drone is a great way to capture unique shots that can help tell the story of a memorable day, and in my experience more couples are requesting drone photos than ever before. I expect that trend to continue. On the following pages, I’ll share some of my best practices for flying drones at weddings, and give you some hints about things to pay attention to.

* Apologies to those in the Southern Hemisphere. We haven’t forgotten about you.

Get certified or licensed to operate commercially

In the US, pilots who fly drones for commercial purposes are required to pass the FAA Part 107 exam. Passing this exam is beneficial beyond just getting a certificate: in the process of studying, drone operators will learn important rules, regulations, and best practices for flying responsibly, all of which will make you a more knowledgable, safer pilot.

You can self study for the FAA exam using the study materials provided by the FAA, or by taking one of the numerous available online test prep courses like this one from Drone Pilot Ground School.

Outside the US, many countries have similar regulations, so make sure you know what the rules are where you’re operating and ensure that you have obtained any necessary permits, certificates, or licenses.

Register your drone with the FAA

After you successfully pass the Part 107 exam, you’ll need to register your drone’s serial number with the FAA. This registration is necessary if you’re flying your drone for commercial purposes, and costs $ 5. The registration number must be clearly marked on your drone so it can be identified if there are any issues or potential accidents.

It should be noted that this registration process is also required for recreational drones, and pilots who intend to fly their drones as a hobby. The FAA had previously removed the registration requirement for recreational drone use, but has recently reinstated it.

Get a good UAV liability insurance policy

Get a liability insurance policy that covers your drone activities. It’s not just a good idea – it will may in fact be required by certain venues before you’re allowed to fly. Venues (and commercial clients) might dictate how much liability coverage you need, or even ask to be listed on a rider, demonstrating that they are protected from any liability during your flights.

Having no liability protection during a wedding flight could be disastrous; despite careful planning and preparation for your flight, unpredictable things can happen. Having UAV (unmanned aerial vehicle) liability coverage will ensure that you’re protected against the potentially large financial burden that could occur if an unforeseen situation arises.

Get a good UAV liability insurance policy

A common question I get is where to buy UAV insurance. Liability policies are offered through special aviation insurance companies, and traditional agencies will typically offer annual coverage based on the policy amount and number of drones covered. You can also purchase UAV insurance on a daily basis, for very specific places and time periods, and even specify the amount of coverage required.

If you intend to fly commercially on a frequent basis, it’s best to buy an annual policy since they tend to be a better value for long term use. However, if you will only be flying the odd commercial gig once in a while, then getting coverage for the day may be the smarter option. I’ve had an annual policy from Costello Insurance for the past two years, and they’ve been great to work with, but if you’d like to look at an on-demand provider, then you might want to take a look at Verifly, which has iOS & Android apps that can be used to book coverage straight from your mobile device.

Update your drone to the latest firmware

Verify that you’re using the latest software and firmware on all of your devices and drones. This includes updating to your drone’s latest mobile app on your phone or tablet, as well as updating the firmware on your controller, drone, and maybe even your batteries. All of these components operate in synergy, so if one part is out of sync you could be exposing yourself to unnecessary risk.

I always go through my checklist several days before a flight, ensuring that I check for updates on all of my devices, and making sure everything is properly charged and calibrated.

Calibrate your IMU and compass before your flight

This is something that I used to take for granted, until I had a very scary close call while trying to capture a beautiful sunset. I decided to pull over by a beach, and proceeded to send my DJI Phantom 3 Advanced up for a quick flight. The drone jumped up and immediately lost it’s GPS and compass heading, putting it into an uncontrolled frenzy in ATTI mode. I struggled through almost the entire battery charge to get it under control, and experienced the highest degree of stress I’ve ever experienced when flying a drone. I was lucky to get it back on the ground without damaging anything.

Looking back, if I had taken a few minutes to calibrate the compass and IMU, I would have a beautiful sunset to look back on instead of the stressful memory of that dreaded flight. Don’t let this happen to you, especially at a wedding. I now always calibrate my compass and IMU before each flight.

Monitor wind conditions

Knowing the wind speed and direction is a critical skill for any drone pilot. When flying downwind it can seem like wind isn’t an issue, but you don’t want to discover that it is when flying back upwind with a low battery. Pay attention to the wind and know both where it’s coming from and at what speed. I use an iOS app called Windseeker to help keep tabs on the wind conditions. It has geolocation abilities, and can even give you an augmented reality overlay of the wind direction for easier planning.

Wind can always be a factor when flying a drone, though to what degree may depend on which model you’re flying. I’ve found that the DJI Phantom series are pretty resilient, and can typically fly in moderate to strong winds. Smaller drones like the DJI Spark and Mavic Pro may not be able to fly in strong winds as adeptly as bigger drones. No matter what drone you’re flying, always use your judgment. If it’s too windy to fly, stay on the ground.

Use a visual observer

Having a visual observer is a requirement for any FAA Part 107 pilot flying for commercial purposes. It serves to cover the line of sight requirement during commercial operations, and is generally a good idea for any flight in my opinion. It’s very difficult to pay close attention to your controller and maintain line of sight to your drone at the same time.

Creating cinematic shots often requires close attention to your display, the controls, and your technique, and breaking that focus to maintain your eyes on the drone in the air will pretty much undermine all of those things. Play it safe and make sure you always have a visual observer to handle this task so you can focus on nailing that epic shot.

Keep a respectful distance

Flying with tact and consideration is a must in my opinion; when planning your shots, do so in a way that doesn’t intrude on the ceremony. I never try anything too fancy without discussing it with the bride and groom. If I need to shoot something that requires me to get relatively close to the ceremony, I always make sure it’s OK with them, and that everyone is aware of the audible noise that my propellers will cause.

Also, consider what type of drone is best for any given situation. If maximum image quality is needed I may use a DJI Phantom 4 Pro, but if image quality takes a backseat to noise, then I can often get more subtle shots with a less intrusive DJI Spark. My advice is to always balance respect for the wedding with the need to get the perfect shot, and discuss this with your clients. They’ll appreciate your need to get the best shots without causing a huge distraction that potentially overpowers their special moment.

Best practices for flying your drone at weddings

These best practices should allow you to get great drone photos or video at a wedding, while also ensuring that you’re operating safely, legally, and respectfully.

I’m interested to hear about other best practices you may have developed over time. Please share them in the comments below! We can all continue to learn and benefit by implementing them into our workflows.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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ProGrade demonstrates first ever 1TB CFexpress card with 1,400MB/s read speed

10 Apr

Memory card manufacturer ProGrade claims to have shown off the first public demonstration of a CFexpress Type B card with 1TB capacity at NAB 2018 in Las Vegas. The card, which is backwards compatible with XQD formats, makes the most of the CFexpress specifications with blistering read/write speeds of 1,400MB/s and 1,000MB/s, respectively.

CFExpress is the latest standard from the CompactFlash Association, and is seen by many as the natural successor to the CFast and XQD formats. It was first announced in September of 2016, and the final specifications for version 1.0 were published in April of 2017. According to the specification list, version 1.0 of CFexpress Type B cards has a maximum transfer speed of 1970MB/s—roughly twice the maximum speed of XQD 2.0 cards—so ProGrade isn’t leaving much on the table with its debut version.

In its statement to DPReview last month, ProGrade said, “XQD cards [can] be upgraded to operate with the new CFexpress Type B cards if the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) chooses to update firmware in those devices.” This puts the onus on camera manufacturers such as Nikon and Sony to upgrade the firmware in its cameras with XQD card slots so CFexpress cards can be used.

ProGrade says its CFexpress cards will be available in 256GB, 512GB and 1TB capacities when they’re released later this year. We have reached out to Nikon and Sony regarding whether or not they plan to support CFexpress cards in the future, and will update this article accordingly when we hear back.

In addition to teasing its upcoming CFexpress cards, ProGrade also launched a collection of V90-rated SD cards with maximum read/write speeds of 250MB/s and 200MB/s, respectively. The cards will be available in early May in 64Gb, 128GB, and 256GB capacities for $ 100, $ 190, and $ 380, respectively.

ProGrade Digital is First To Publicly Demonstrate CFexpress™ 1.0 Technology in 1TB Capacity

1,400MB/Second Data Transfer Speed Reaches New Milestone

NAB, LAS VEGAS, NV – April 8, 2018 1:00 am Pacific—ProGrade Digital, founded with a mission to provide the highest quality professional grade digital memory cards and workflow solutions, has become the first company to publicly demonstrate the CFexpress™ 1.0 technology with 1TB of capacity. Debut of this important next generation digital memory card form factor, presented by CEO Wes Brewer and VP of Marketing Mark Lewis at NAB in Las Vegas, provides solid proof that the industry is moving toward productization of this new standard.

“The CFexpress standard has been evolving for several years within the CompactFlash Association as a successor to both CFast™ and XQD™ formats. We are pleased to be working within the CFA and aside device manufacturers to bring to market this next generation removable storage standard,” said Brewer. “Industry adoption of CFexpress will allow for much higher resolution and higher bit rate image capture than ever before in many still image and video capture devices. Faster offload speeds will also greatly benefit the post-capture workflow through the extremely high read speeds it provides. With our demonstration today, we’ve also been able to show compatibility for the CFexpress Type B form factor with XQD memory cards–showing operation of both card standards in a common Thunderbolt™ 3 reader.”

ProGrade Digital demonstrated performance benchmark speeds exceeding 1,400MB/second and burst write speeds of greater than 1,000MB/second–nearly three times faster than CFast memory cards and more than four times those for SDXC™ UHS-II.

CFexpress 1.0 Demonstrated Technology Key Features:

  • Industry-leading speeds
  • Greater than 1,400MB/second read
  • Greater than 1,000MB/second burst write
  • CFexpress Type B format factor with two lanes of PCIe® and NVM Express® support
  • XQD form factor interoperability
  • Dimensions: 29.6 mm x 38.5 mm x 3.8 mm

The founders of ProGrade Digital are industry veterans in the removable storage and digital photography industries. Each, having spent time at leading companies such as Lexar and SanDisk, brings extensive expertise in the design, development and manufacture of digital storage products, plus longstanding relationships with key manufacturing and supply chain partners. The company focuses exclusively on development of memory cards, card readers and workflow software for professional imaging markets. Flagship products, ProGrade Digital CFast 2.0 and ProGrade Digital SDXC UHS-II, are optimized to render maximum performance when paired with high-end DSLR, mirrorless, ­­­camcorder and digital cinema cameras from manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Sony and Blackmagic. ProGrade Digital memory cards expand the creative visions of cinema and photography professionals around the world.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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This Copy of the Book ‘Fahrenheit 451’ Can Only Be Read When Heated

19 Oct

[ By SA Rogers in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

Science, art and dystopian fiction come together in a fascinating new project that puts a highly appropriate heat-sensitive twist on Ray Bradbury’s classic novel, Fahrenheit 451. Charles Nypels Laboratory, which is part of Holland’s Jan van Eyck Academie, an institute for fine art and design, collaborated with graphic design collective Super Terrain to create a very special edition of the book. Check out the effect in their video below.

This week our colleagues from Super Terrain are working in the Lab as a last stop on their all-over-Europe printing adventures. They showed us this remarkable book they made "Fahrenheit 451". — @superterrain #printingadventures #heatsensitive #fire #experimental #artistsbook #allblack #screenprint

A post shared by Jo Frenken (@charlesnypelslab) on

Made in a lab, the pages are coated in thermochromic pigment, which disappears when a flame is held close to it (but not too close – you don’t want to actually reenact a major plot point of Fahrenheit 451, in which all books are contraband, and any that are found must be burned by ‘firemen.’) In the comments on the Instagram post, the designers note that the book will turn black again once it cools down, so you’d use a whole lot of lighter fluid (or matches) to read the whole thing.

This week our colleagues from Super Terrain are working in the Lab as a last stop on their all-over-Europe printing adventures,” says the Charles Nypel Lab on Instagram. “They showed us this remarkable book they made ‘Fahrenheit 451.’”

(h/t My Modern Met)

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[ By SA Rogers in Design & Graphics & Branding. ]

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Opinion: Thinking about buying medium format? Read this first

24 Mar

The recent announcements of Fujifilm’s GFX 50S and Hasselblad’s X1D have turned a lot of heads, and for good reason. To take the GFX 50S specifically (since it’s more likely to represent an affordable option for DSLR shooters), we love Fujifilm cameras. It’s hard not to – they offer excellent ergonomics with a level of direct control that photographers itch for, and Fujifilm’s color science renders images that harken back to the days of film, while retaining all the advantages of digital. Meanwhile, the X-Trans color filter array (CFA) offers a number of advantages compared to traditional Bayer CFAs, showing decreased false color and a slight noise advantage due to a (relatively) greater proportion of green pixels.

Ultimately, though, the image quality of Fujifilm’s best cameras was limited by their APS-C sized sensors, which simply cannot capture as much light as similar silicon in larger sizes. And if you’ve kept up with our recent technical articles, you’ll know that the amount of total light you’ve captured is arguably the largest determinant of image quality.

‘Fujifilm skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format.’

That left many of us wondering when Fujifilm would step up to full-frame (35mm). But Fujifilm went one better – they skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format. In a rather compact, lightweight mirrorless form-factor at that. That made a lot of sense especially when you consider Fujifilm’s heritage in medium format film cameras, and its experience making medium-format lenses for other brands.

So, finally, here comes the GFX 50S: Fujifilm ergonomics and colors, but with all the advantages offered by larger sensors. But while heads turn, eyes widen, and colleagues fight over who gets to take the camera out for a shoot, personally I’m in need of a little convincing. And think you should be too, if you’re thinking about plopping down a fat wad of cash for this seemingly drool-worthy system.

But what’s not to like, you ask? Bear with me…

Theoretical advantages of larger sensors

The potential advantages of larger sensors can broadly be split into four areas: noise in low light, dynamic range, subject isolation (shallow depth-of-field), and resolution. But zoom into the following 36MP at 100% – are any of those lacking?

ISO 64 on a Nikon D810 gets me medium format-esque signal:noise ratio (image cleanliness), along with subject isolation I can’t get on medium format just yet, not at this focal length anyway (which would require a non-existent 44mm F2.5 MF lens). The incredible sharpness of this lens means I get good use out of those 36MP even wide open at F2. Photo: Rishi Sanyal (Nikon D810 | Sigma 24-35mm @ 35mm F2)

The question is: does the GFX 50S currently deliver on all, or any, of these advantages over what the best of full-frame has to offer? Let’s look at each separately.

Low light (noise) performance

For the same f-number and shutter speed (or ‘focal plane exposure’), a larger sensor is exposed to more total light. The same light per unit area is projected by the lens, but the larger sensor has more area available capturing it. An image made with more light has less relative photon shot noise (the noise that results from the fact that light arrives randomly at the imaging plane). The more light you capture, the more you ‘average’ out these fluctuations, leading to a cleaner image (that’s the laymen’s description of it anyway; read about it more in-depth here).

That’s why a full-frame camera generally gives you cleaner images than your smartphone.* So if more light means better images, that’s a clear win for the GFX 50S, right?

Not so fast…

No, literally, not so fast. The lenses available for the GFX format simply aren’t as fast as those offered by full-frame competitors. The fastest lens on Fujifilm’s GFX roadmap is F2, which in full-frame equivalent terms is F1.56** (the concept of equivalence is out of scope for this article, but you can read about it in-depth here; for now, just remember the GFX has a reverse crop factor, relative to full-frame, of 0.79x). And most of the current MF lenses hover around F2.8 and F4, or F2.2 and F3.2 equivalent, respectively. That means that if they had the exact same underlying silicon technology (or sensor performance), a full-frame camera with an F2.2 (or F3.2) lens should do just as well as the GFX 50S with its F2.8 (or F4) lens. Even if were were to think ahead to the MF 100MP sensor Sony provides in the Phase One cameras, its 0.64x crop factor at best yields an F1.3 full-frame equivalent lenses from the one F2 lens announced, still not beating out the Canon 85/1.2, and barely beating out the plethora of available F1.4 full-frame lenses. So even if the newly announced G-mount lenses cover the wider medium format image circle (which I’d sure hope they would), things still aren’t so exciting.

But full-frame can do better than that: F1.4 and F1.8 lenses are routinely available for full-frame cameras, typically for less money too. An F1.4 lens projects twice as much light per unit area than an F2 lens, and 4x as much as an F2.8 lens, amply making up for the 1.7x smaller sensor surface area of full-frame.

That means full-frame cameras can capture as much, or more, light as the GFX 50S simply by offering faster lenses. But wait, it there’s more…

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Companies like Sony have poured a lot of R&D into their full-frame (and smaller) sensors, and the a7R II uses a backside-illuminated design that makes it more efficient than the sensor used in the 50S. It also offers a dual-gain architecture that flips the camera into a high gain mode at ISO 640, allowing it to effectively overcome any noise introduced by the camera’s own electronics. In other words, the a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor – ironically a sensor made by Sony itself – in the G50S (or Pentax 645Z, or Hasselblad X1D). This allows it to match the low light noise performance of the larger sensor in the GFX (and Pentax 645Z and Hasselblad X1D) even at the same shutter speed and f-number. See our studio scene comparison widget above.

‘The Sony a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor’

So if we start with parity, guess what happens when you open up that aperture on the a7R II to an f-number simply unavailable to any current medium format system? You guessed it: you get better low light performance on full-frame. Whoa.

Dynamic Range

Although the same f-number and shutter speed give a larger sensor more total light, they receive the same amount of light per unit area. Most sensors of a similar generation have broadly similar tolerance for light per unit area (technically: similar full well capacity per unit area). But a larger sensor devotes more sensor area to any scene element, so can tolerate more total light per scene element before clipping. That means that for the same focal plane exposure, despite clipping highlights at a similar point, a larger sensor will render shadows (whose noise levels define the other limit of dynamic range) from more total light. And the same logic that applies to low light noise applies here as well: more total light = less relative shot noise and less impact of any noise from camera electronics. That means cleaner shadows, and more dynamic range.

So another clear win for the larger sensor GFX, no? Well, no. Because someone poured a lot of R&D into the Nikon D810 sensor (noticing a trend here?), giving it higher full-well capacity per unit area than any other sensor we’ve measured to date: its ISO 64 mode. Each pixel can hold more total charge before clipping, relative to equally-sized pixels on any other sensor in a consumer camera. That means it can tolerate a longer exposure at ISO 64, longer enough (at least 2/3 EV, or 60% more light) to capture as much total light as the 68% larger sensor in the GFX 50S exposed at its base ISO (100). Don’t believe us? Check out our real-world dynamic range comparison of the Nikon D810 vs the Pentax 645Z, which ostensibly shares the same sensor as the GFX 50S:

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In this shoot-out, we exposed each camera to the right as far as possible before clipping a significant chunk of pixels in the brightest portion of the Raw (in the orange sky just above the mountains). The D810, in this case, was able to tolerate a full stop longer exposure***, which allows its (pushed) shadows to remain as clean as the 645Z. That’s the (scientific, not baloney) reason we claimed the Nikon D810 to have medium format-like image quality. Because its dynamic range and overall signal:noise performance at ISO 64 rivals many current medium format cameras their base ISOs (though not the huge new 100MP MF Sony sensor in the new Phase One). Just look at its massive SNR advantage (read: image cleanliness) for all tones at ISO 64 over the Canon 5DS R at ISO 100 – we intend to plot the Fujifilm GFX 50S on the same graph, and don’t expect it to show any advantage to the D810. Because science.

Read about this all more in-depth in our D810 review here, and check out Bill Claff’s quantitative data that shows a 0.22 EV base ISO dynamic range difference between the D810 and 645Z – hardly noticeable, much less something to write home about.

‘OK but it’s not fair to compare ISO 64 to ISO 100!’

Fair enough, there’s a little more to the story. ISO 64 does require more exposure than ISO 100, either via a brighter lens, or longer exposure time. But one might argue that under circumstances where you care about dynamic range – i.e. high contrast scenes – you’re typically not light-limited to begin with, and can easily give the camera as much light as needed. Either because you’re shooting on a tripod, you’re using studio lights and can just crank them up, or because there’s so much light to begin with (it is a high contrast scene, right?) You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV exposure by opening up the lens or lengthening the shutter speed a bit.

‘You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV shutter speed’

But, yes, if you’re in a light-limited situation (i.e. you’re not shooting at base ISO) and it’s high enough contrast that you care about dynamic range (have to expose for highlights then push shadows), then the GFX 50S will have the upper hand here. But dare I say, that’s quite the niche use case: keep in mind that most situations demanding higher ISOs tend to be in lower light, where you care more about general noise performance, not dynamic range (since low light scenes tend to have lower contrast). And if that’s what you care about, there’s the a7R II which, although it may clip highlights a bit earlier, can give you as good, or better, low light noise performance… [link back to Noise section above].

But I’ll concede – if you want both the base ISO dynamic range of the D810, and the low light noise performance of an a7R II (albeit with F2 or slower lenses), then the GFX might be your ticket.

Shallow Depth-of-Field

As we calculated in our ‘Low light (noise) performance’ section above, the fastest lens on Fujifilm’s roadmap is ~F1.6 full-frame equivalent, with most current available lenses being F2.2 equivalent or slower. Since full-frame routinely has F1.4 (equivalent) lenses available, you actually get more subject isolation, and blurrier backgrounds, with full-frame than with medium format.

And, no, the ‘but larger formats have more compression because you use longer focal length lenses for the same field-of-view’ argument is false. Just say no to the compression myth. For equivalent focal lengths/apertures, there’s no extra compression. Compression is relative only to equivalent focal length and subject distance (or subject magnification), and its relative distance to the background. Not the format you’re shooting on. Don’t believe us, have a look for yourself:

46mm F2.8 on APS-C is roughly equivalent to 70mm F4.3 on full-frame – meaning the two shots above should be virtually identical. And they are, save for a tiny bit more DOF in the full-frame shot because F4.5 was the closest I could get to F4.3. Now, of course, you can get shallower DOF on full-frame, for example by shooting at F2.8. But that’s because those faster lenses are available for full-frame.

They’re not in Fujifilm’s lineup, which includes two F2.8 lenses, one F2 lens, and a few F4 lenses – which are equivalent to F2.2, F1.6, and F3.2 in full-frame terms, respectively.

Without brighter lenses, there’s just no reason to get excited about medium format for subject isolation and blurry backgrounds. If you’re a bokeh fanatic, full-frame’s arguably the sweet spot.

Resolution

OK, finally, some good news. Well, theoretically anyway.

If you have two differently sized sensors with the same pixel count, the smaller one will be more demanding on its lens (it samples the lens at more lines per mm for the same scene frequency). Manufacturing larger lenses is also slightly easier, since the same relative tolerance level can be achieved, despite a larger absolute variance.

So if you’re looking for true 50MP of detail across the frame, you’re more likely to get it with the GFX 50S than with a comparable 50MP full-frame sensor, simply because of the realities of lens design and tolerances. That said, we’ve been told that some of the newer full-frame lens designs were designed with 80 to 100MP in mind, on full-frame sensors. And with the eye-popping performance of some of the newest full-frame lenses we’ve seen, from varied manufacturers, we’re not inclined to disagree. We’ve seen some 50MP files from the 5DS R paired with truly stellar lenses where we simply can’t imagine anything better, resolution-wise. In fact, at ~F5.6-6.2 equivalent, I’m not seeing a major resolution advantage of the medium format cameras over the full-frame cameras in our studio scene comparison tool, and the 50MP full-frame image below isn’t exactly starved for resolution, is it?

50MP Canon 5DS R image, shot with a Sigma 24-35mm F2 lens at F2. At F2 full-frame equiv., this image would have been impossible to shoot on the Fujifilm GFX 50S without a 44mm F2.5 lens, which doesn’t exist, nor is on Fujifilm’s roadmap. And despite the 5DS R’s smaller pixels for the same total pixel count sensor, this image isn’t exactly starving for resolution and sharpness at 1:1 viewing, thanks to modern lens design. Photo: Rishi Sanyal

Put another way: if you’re seeing eye-popping resolution at F2 above and here and here (and even at F1.4 on some new lenses) when viewing a Canon 5DS R 50MP full-frame file at 100% (do click on the above image and view at 100%), do you want or need a truer 50MP? Or do you want even more than 50MP, particularly if it’ll come at the cost of more depth-of-field, since there are hardly any F2 equivalent lenses that’ll give you the subject isolation and background bokeh you see in the full-frame shot above?

Only you can answer that question, but it is true that physics being physics, larger sensors will always tend to out-resolve smaller sensors with equivalent glass. And so this is the area where we most expect to see an advantage to the Fujifilm system, especially over time as we approach 100MP, and beyond. It’s probably easier for an F1.8 prime paired with the GFX 50S to out-resolve an F1.4 prime on a 5DS R when both systems are shot wide open, but whether that will be the case (or if Fujifilm will even make an F1.8 or brighter prime for the system) remains to be seen. I certainly don’t think it would be a cheap combination.

Thanks, DPR, for saving me money / killing my hopes and dreams

Still excited about the Fujifilm GFX 50S and Hasselblad X1D? Perhaps you still should be. You get Fujifilm ergonomics and color science in a body capable of far better image quality than Fujifilm’s APS-C offerings. But remember you can emulate much of that color science in Raw converters with proper profiles (we’re looking into a separate article on this). More importantly, remember that equivalence tells us that an F1.8 medium format prime is what the GFX 50S actually needs to at least match the performance from modern full-frames paired with F1.4 lenses, from the perspective of noise and shallow depth-of-field. And that’s before you consider the advanced silicon technologies we’ve seen in different full-frame (and smaller) sensors that we haven’t yet seen in any medium format sensor. These advances have, for example, allowed a Nikon D810 to catch up to the dynamic range of the Pentax 645Z at base ISO, and the BSI, dual-gain a7R II sensor to catch up to the GFX 50S in low light noise performance.

Still, as I’ve said, physics is physics. For equivalent apertures and final output resolutions, we do expect medium format to yield a slight resolution advantage, thanks to its lower demands on resolving power of lenses. But the extent of this advantage, especially given some of the tremendous progress we’ve seen in recent lens designs, remains to be seen: I’m not starving for eye-popping detail at 1:1 viewing of 50 and 42MP files when pairing a 5DS R or a7R II with stellar modern prime lenses.

‘as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format.’

Of course, as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format. But this will require both the silicon to keep up, and for the development of faster lenses. At least as fast as the fastest lenses full-frame offers. One thing does make us hopeful – recent conversations with some forum members alerted us to the fact that certain full-frame lenses, like the Zeiss Otus primes, actually project an image circle large enough for at least a square crop on Fujifilm’s new MF format. That would essentially get you high quality F1.1 equivalent glass on the GFX 50S. Cool, if you can focus it, anyway… (the GFX focus even with native lenses is anything but fast or intelligent, by the way). But if we see more and more fast full-frame lenses able to cover the image circle of the GFX G50S, then we’re more likely to actually experience the benefits of the larger sensor format, though native fast lenses (that aren’t slow unit focus, please) are really what we need.

Else, the potential advantages may be outweighed by the disadvantages: the extra weight, heft, price and severely lacking autofocus. And the GFX 50S has given up some of the noise and false color advantages their X-Trans cameras show…

For now, we hope that looking at the problem through the lens of equivalence at least gives you an idea of how big (or small) you can reasonably expect the differences to be. Maybe it even saves you a dime or two. Or makes you want to yell at us for bringing up equivalence, again.

But at the end of the day, equivalence has left me rather equivocal about medium format digital. What about you? Let us know in the comments below.

Editorial note: The headline of this opinion article has been updated to make it clearer that the points expressed are not intended to be taken as being specific to a single product, but represent discussion of the pros and cons of the emerging enthusiast medium-format camera class as a whole. 


Footnotes:

* It’s also why ‘multi-shot’ modes yield cleaner images than single shots: these modes essentially capture more total light, averaging out shot noise. It’s also why brighter scenes generally look cleaner than low light scenes: more light = more photons captured = less relative shot noise = higher signal:noise ratio (SNR, or ‘cleanliness’ in laymen terms).

** The GFX 50S’ 44x33mm sensor has an effective 0.78x crop factor, so you can multiply the MF lens’ f-number by 0.78 to get the equivalent full-frame f-number.

*** We don’t control for T-stop, which could partially explain the drastic exposure difference. This doesn’t affect our experiment though, as we applied well-vetted ‘Expose to the Right’ (ETTR) principles for a fair comparison

**** Blind test: our ISO 12,800 studio scene shots of the GFX 50S and the a7R II have both been resized to 42MP, and a 576px wide 1:1 crop has been taken. Can you tell which is which?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Thinking about buying a Fujifilm GFX 50S? Read this first

21 Mar

Fujifilm’s GFX 50S announcement has turned a lot of heads, and for good reason. We love Fujifilm cameras. It’s hard not to – they offer excellent ergonomics with a level of direct control that photographers itch for, and Fujifilm’s color science renders images that harken back to the days of film, while retaining all the advantages of digital. Meanwhile, the X-Trans color filter array (CFA) offers a number of advantages compared to traditional Bayer CFAs, showing decreased false color and a slight noise advantage due to a (relatively) greater proportion of green pixels.

Ultimately, though, the image quality of Fujifilm’s best cameras was limited by their APS-C sized sensors, which simply cannot capture as much light as similar silicon in larger sizes. And if you’ve kept up with our recent technical articles, you’ll know that the amount of total light you’ve captured is arguably the largest determinant of image quality.

‘Fujifilm skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format.’

That left many of us wondering when Fujifilm would step up to full-frame (35mm). But Fujifilm went one better – they skipped the arguably saturated full-frame market and went straight to medium format. In a rather compact, lightweight mirrorless form-factor at that. That made a lot of sense especially when you consider Fujifilm’s heritage in medium format film cameras, and its experience making medium-format lenses for other brands.

So, finally, here comes the GFX 50S: Fujifilm ergonomics and colors, but with all the advantages offered by larger sensors. But while heads turn, eyes widen, and colleagues fight over who gets to take the camera out for a shoot, personally I’m in need of a little convincing. And think you should be too, if you’re thinking about plopping down a fat wad of cash for this seemingly drool-worthy system.

But what’s not to like, you ask? Bear with me…

Theoretical advantages of larger sensors

The potential advantages of larger sensors can broadly be split into four areas: noise in low light, dynamic range, subject isolation (shallow depth-of-field), and resolution. But zoom into the following 36MP at 100% – are any of those lacking?

ISO 64 on a Nikon D810 gets me medium format-esque signal:noise ratio (image cleanliness), along with subject isolation I can’t get on medium format just yet, not at this focal length anyway (which would require a non-extant 44mm F2.5 MF lens. The incredible sharpness of this lens means I get good use out of those 36MP even wide open at F2. Photo: Rishi Sanyal (Nikon D810 | Sigma 24-35mm @ 35mm F2)

The question is: does the GFX 50S currently deliver on all, or any, of these advantages over what the best of full-frame has to offer? Let’s look at each separately.

Low light (noise) performance

For the same f-number and shutter speed (or ‘focal plane exposure’), a larger sensor is exposed to more total light. The same light per unit area is projected by the lens, but the larger sensor has more area available capturing it. An image made with more light has less relative photon shot noise (the noise that results from the fact that light arrives randomly at the imaging plane). The more light you capture, the more you ‘average’ out these fluctuations, leading to a cleaner image (that’s the laymen’s description of it anyway; read about it more in-depth here).

That’s why a full-frame camera generally gives you cleaner images than your smartphone.* So if more light means better images, that’s a clear win for the GFX 50S, right?

Not so fast…

No, literally, not so fast. The lenses available for the GFX format simply aren’t as fast as those offered by full-frame competitors. The fastest lens on Fujifilm’s GFX roadmap is F2, which in full-frame equivalent terms is F1.56** (the concept of equivalence is out of scope for this article, but you can read about it in-depth here; for now, just remember the GFX has a reverse crop factor, relative to full-frame, of 0.79x). And most of the current MF lenses hover around F2.8 of F4, or F2.2 and F3.2 equivalent, respectively. That means that if they had the exact same underlying silicon technology (or sensor performance), a full-frame camera with a F2.2 (or F3.2) lens should do just as well as the GFX 50S with its F2.8 (or F4) lens. Even if were were to think ahead to the MF 100MP sensor Sony provides in the Phase One cameras, its 0.64x crop factor at best yields a F1.3 full-frame equivalent lenses from the one F2 lens announced, still not beating out the Canon 85/1.2, and barely beating out the plethora of available F1.4 full-frame lenses. So even if the newly announced G-mount lenses cover the wider medium format image circle (which I’d sure hope they would), things still aren’t so exciting.

But full-frame can do better than that: F1.4 and F1.8 lenses are routinely available for full-frame cameras, typically for less money too. An F1.4 lens projects twice as much light per unit area than a F2 lens, and 4x as much as a F2.8 lens, amply making up for the 1.7x smaller sensor surface area of full-frame.

That means full-frame cameras can capture as much, or more, light as the GFX 50S simply by offering faster lenses. But wait, it there’s more…

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Companies like Sony have poured a lot of R&D into their full-frame (and smaller) sensors, and the a7R II uses a backside-illuminated design that makes it more efficient than the sensor used in the 50S. It also offers a dual-gain architecture that flips the camera into a high gain mode at ISO 640, allowing it to effectively overcome any noise introduced by the camera’s own electronics. In other words, the a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor – ironically a sensor made by Sony itself – in the G50S (or Pentax 645Z, or Hasselblad X1D). This allows it to match the low light noise performance of the larger sensor Pentax 645Z even at the same shutter speed and f-number. See our studio scene comparison widget above.

‘The Sony a7R II’s sensor is better able to use the light projected onto it, relative to the MF sensor’

So if we start with parity, guess what happens when you open up that aperture on the a7R II to an f-number simply unavailable to any current medium format system? You guessed it: you get better low light performance on full-frame. Whoa.

Dynamic Range

Although the same f-number and shutter speed give a larger sensor more total light, they receive the same amount of light per unit area. Most sensors of a similar generation have broadly similar tolerance for light per unit area (technically: similar full well capacity per unit area). But a larger sensor devotes more sensor area to any scene element, so can tolerate more total light per scene element before clipping. That means that for the same focal plane exposure, despite clipping highlights at a similar point, a larger sensor will render shadows (whose noise levels define the other limit of dynamic range) from more total light. And the same logic that applies to low light noise applies here as well: more total light = less relative shot noise and less impact of any noise from camera electronics. That means cleaner shadows, and more dynamic range.

So another clear win for the larger sensor GFX, no? Well, no. Because someone poured a lot of R&D into the Nikon D810 sensor (noticing a trend here?), giving it higher full-well capacity per unit area than any other sensor we’ve measured to date: its ISO 64 mode. Each pixel can hold more total charge before clipping, relative to equally-sized pixels on any other sensor in a consumer camera. That means it can tolerate a longer exposure at ISO 64, longer enough (at least 2/3 EV, or 60% more light) to capture as much total light as the 68% larger sensor in the GFX 50S exposed at its base ISO (100). Don’t believe us? Check out our real-world dynamic range comparison of the Nikon D810 vs the Pentax 645Z, which ostensibly shares the same sensor as the GFX 50S:

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In this shoot-out, we exposed each camera to the right as far as possible before clipping a significant chunk of pixels in the brightest portion of the Raw (in the orange sky just above the mountains). The D810, in this case, was able to tolerate a full stop longer exposure***, which allows its (pushed) shadows to remain as clean as the 645Z. That’s the (scientific, not baloney) reason we claimed the Nikon D810 to have medium format-like image quality. Because its dynamic range and overall signal:noise performance at ISO 64 rivals many current medium format cameras their base ISOs (though not the huge new 100MP MF Sony sensor in the new Phase One). Just look at its massive SNR advantage (read: image cleanliness) for all tones at ISO 64 over the Canon 5DS R at ISO 100 – we intend to plot the Fujifilm GFX 50S on the same graph, and don’t expect it to show any advantage to the D810. Because science.

Read about this all more in-depth in our D810 review here, and check out Bill Claff’s quantitative data that shows a 0.22 EV base ISO dynamic range difference between the D810 and 645Z – hardly noticeable, much less something to write home about.

‘OK but it’s not fair to compare ISO 64 to ISO 100!’

Fair enough, there’s a little more to the story. ISO 64 does require more exposure than ISO 100, either via a brighter lens, or longer exposure time. But one might argue that under circumstances where you care about dynamic range – i.e. high contrast scenes – you’re typically not light-limited to begin with, and can easily give the camera as much light as needed. Either because you’re shooting on a tripod, you’re using studio lights and can just crank them up, or because there’s so much light to begin with (it is a high contrast scene, right?) You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV exposure by opening up the lens or lengthening the shutter speed a bit.

‘You’re working at or near base ISO anyway, so you shouldn’t have trouble adding 2/3 EV shutter speed’

But, yes, if you’re in a light-limited situation (i.e. you’re not shooting at base ISO) and it’s high enough contrast that you care about dynamic range (have to expose for highlights then push shadows), then the GFX 50S will have the upper hand here. But dare I say, that’s quite the niche use case: keep in mind that most situations demanding higher ISOs tend to be in lower light, where you care more about general noise performance, not dynamic range (since low light scenes tend to have lower contrast). And if that’s what you care about, there’s the a7R II which, although it may clip highlights a bit earlier, can give you as good, or better, low light noise performance… [link back to Noise section above].

But I’ll concede – if you want both the base ISO dynamic range of the D810, and the low light noise performance of an a7R II (albeit with F2 or slower lenses), then the GFX might be your ticket.

Shallow Depth-of-Field

As we calculated in our ‘Low light (noise) performance’ section above, the fastest lens on Fujifilm’s roadmap is ~F1.6 full-frame equivalent, with most current available lenses being F2.2 equivalent or slower. Since full-frame routinely has F1.4 (equivalent) lenses available, you actually get more subject isolation, and blurrier backgrounds, with full-frame than with medium format.

And, no, the ‘but larger formats have more compression because you use longer focal length lenses for the same field-of-view’ argument is false. Just say no to the compression myth. For equivalent focal lengths/apertures, there’s no extra compression. Compression is relative only to equivalent focal length and subject distance (or subject magnification), and its relative distance to the background. Not the format you’re shooting on. Don’t believe us, have a look for yourself:

46mm F2.8 on APS-C is roughly equivalent to 70mm F4.3 on full-frame – meaning the two shots above should be virtually identical. And they are, save for a tiny bit more DOF in the full-frame shot because F4.5 was the closest I could get to F4.3. Now, of course, you can get shallower DOF on full-frame, for example by shooting at F2.8. But that’s because those faster lenses are available for full-frame.

They’re not in Fujifilm’s lineup, which includes two F2.8 lenses, one F2 lens, and a few F4 lenses – which are equivalent to F2.2, F1.6, and F3.2 in full-frame terms, respectively.

Without brighter lenses, there’s just no reason to get excited about medium format for subject isolation and blurry backgrounds. If you’re a bokeh fanatic, full-frame’s arguably the sweet spot.

Resolution

OK, finally, some good news. Well, theoretically anyway.

If you have two differently sized sensors with the same pixel count, the smaller one will be more demanding on its lens (it samples the lens at more lines per mm for the same scene frequency). Manufacturing larger lenses is also slightly easier, since the same relative tolerance level can be achieved, despite a larger absolute variance.

So if you’re looking for true 50MP of detail across the frame, you’re more likely to get it with the GFX 50S than with a comparable 50MP full-frame sensor, simply because of the realities of lens design and tolerances. That said, we’ve been told that some of the newer full-frame lens designs were designed with 80 to 100MP in mind, on full-frame sensors. And with the eye-popping performance of some of the newest full-frame lenses we’ve seen, from varied manufacturers, we’re not inclined to disagree. We’ve seen some 50MP files from the 5DS R paired with truly stellar lenses where we simply can’t imagine anything better, resolution-wise. In fact, at ~F5.6-6.2 equivalent, I’m not seeing a major resolution advantage of the medium format cameras over the full-frame cameras in our studio scene comparison tool, and the 50MP full-frame image below isn’t exactly starved for resolution, is it?

50MP Canon 5DS R image, shot with a Sigma 24-35mm F2 lens at F2. At F2 full-frame equiv., this image would literally have been impossible to shoot on the Fujifilm GFX 50S, without a 44mm F2.5 lens, anyway, which doesn’t exist, nor is on the roadmap, for the Fujifilm. Photo: Rishi Sanyal

Put another way: if you’re seeing eye-popping resolution at F2 above and here and here (and even at F1.4 on some new lenses) when viewing a Canon 5DS R 50MP full-frame file at 100% (do click on the above image and view at 100%), do you want or need a truer 50MP? Or do you want even more than 50MP, particularly if it’ll come at the cost of more depth-of-field, since there are hardly any F2 equivalent lenses that’ll give you the subject isolation and background bokeh you see in the full-frame shot above?

Only you can answer that question, but it is true that physics being physics, larger sensors will always tend to out-resolve smaller sensors with equivalent glass. And so this is the area where we most expect to see an advantage to the Fujifilm system, especially over time as we approach 100MP, and beyond. It’s probably easier for a F1.8 prime paired with the GFX 50S to out-resolve a F1.4 prime on a 5DS R when both systems are shot wide open, but whether that will be the case (or if Fujifilm will even make a F1.8 or brighter prime for the system) remains to be seen. I certainly don’t think it would be a cheap combination.

Thanks, DPR, for saving me my money / killing my hopes and dreams

Still excited about the Fujifilm GFX 50S and Hasselblad X1D? Perhaps you still should be. You get Fujifilm ergonomics and color science in a body capable of far better image quality that Fujifilm’s APS-C offerings. But remember you can emulate much of that color science in Raw converters with proper profiles (we’re looking into a separate article on this). More importantly, remember that equivalence tells us that a F1.8 medium format prime is what the GFX 50S actually needs to at least match the performance from modern full-frames paired with F1.4 lenses, from the perspective of noise and shallow depth-of-field. And that’s before you consider the advanced silicon technologies we’ve seen in different full-frame (and smaller) sensors that we haven’t yet seen in any medium format sensor. These advances have, for example, allowed a Nikon D810 to catch up to the dynamic range of the Pentax 645Z at base ISO, and the BSI, dual-gain a7R II sensor to catch up to the GFX 50S in low light noise performance.

Still, as I’ve said, physics is physics. For equivalent apertures and final output resolutions, we do expect medium format to yield a slight resolution advantage, thanks to its lower demands on resolving power of lenses. But the extent of this advantage, especially given some of the tremendous progress we’ve seen in recent lens designs, remains to be seen: I’m not starving for eye-popping detail at 1:1 viewing of 50 and 42MP files when pairing a 5DS R or a7R II with stellar modern prime lenses.

‘as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format.’

Of course, as medium format evolves, the same gains we see in full-frame over smaller sensors might find their ways into the format. But this will require both the silicon to keep up, and for the development of faster lenses. At least as fast as the fastest lenses full-frame offers. One thing does make us hopeful – recent conversations with our forum extraordinaire Jim Kasson have alerted us to the fact that certain full-frame lenses, like the Zeiss Otus primes, actually project an image circle large enough for Fujifilm’s new MF format. That would essentially get you high quality F1.1 equivalent glass on the GFX 50S. OK, that’s cool. If you can focus it, anyway 🙂 But if we see more and more fast full-frame lenses able to cover the image circle of the GFX G50S, then we’re more likely to actually experience the benefits of the larger sensor format.

Else, the potential advantages may be outweighed by the disadvantages: the extra weight, heft, price and severely lacking autofocus. And the GFX 50S has given up some of the noise and false color advantages their X-Trans cameras show…

For now, we hope that looking at the problem through the lens of equivalence at least gives you an idea of how big (or small) you can reasonably expect the differences to be. Maybe it even saves you a dime or two. Or makes you want to yell at us for bringing up equivalence, again.

But at the end of the day, equivalence has made me rather equivocal about the GFX 50S. What about you? Let us know in the comments below.


Footnotes:

* It’s also why ‘multi-shot’ modes yield cleaner images than single shots: these modes essentially capture more total light, averaging out shot noise. It’s also why brighter scenes generally look cleaner than low light scenes: more light = more photons captured = less relative shot noise = higher signal:noise ratio (SNR, or ‘cleanliness’ in laymen terms).

** The GFX 50S’ 44x33mm sensor has an effective 0.78x crop factor, so you can multiply the MF lens’ f-number by 0.78 to get the equivalent full-frame f-number.

*** We don’t control for T-stop, which could partially explain the drastic exposure difference. This doesn’t affect our experiment though, as we applied well-vetted ‘Expose to the Right’ (ETTR) principles for a fair comparison

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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