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How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

15 Dec

The post How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Are you looking to spice up your photos in Lightroom? Do you want a few quick edits that will really make your photos pop?

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

That’s what this article is all about.

I’m going to give you four key edits that will absolutely revolutionize your Lightroom post-processing. You’ll come away knowing exactly how to make your photos stand out…

…just by moving a few sliders.

Sound good?

Let’s get started.

1. Boost the overall contrast with the basic panel

If you want to make your photos pop, then you should start with contrast.

Because contrast is the lifeblood of punchy, impactful photography.

Contrast can take a photo looking dull, boring, flat, and lifeless, like this:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

And singlehandedly turn it into something worth looking at, like this:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Now, there is such a thing as too much contrast. But most photos need more contrast, not less! So I give you my permission to really crank up that contrast in Lightroom. Even if it feels like your photos already have enough contrast, I recommend you add some and see how it looks. Boosting the contrast can be an eye-opening experience. You may realize that you’ve been depriving your images for years.

There are a few ways you can boost the contrast, and they all start by heading over to the Lightroom Develop module:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Take a look at the Basic panel on the righthand side:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Then, if you want a quick and dirty way to see how your photo looks with more contrast, just crank up the Contrast slider.

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

And for a lot of images, this is enough.

But if you want to take things further, you can work with the Tone sliders. In particular, raising the Whites and dropping the Blacks can combine contrast with some much-needed tonal range. In other words, this will make your photo span the entire spectrum of tones, from black to white (which often looks great!).

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Bottom line:

A bit (or more than a bit!) of contrast can go a long way.

2. Add Clarity or Texture to give the details some punch

Once you’ve finished working on the overall contrast, it’s time to consider amplifying the details.

And that’s what the Clarity and Texture sliders do really, really well.

Both of these tools sit in the Basic panel, just like the contrast sliders:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Now, Clarity offers a powerful, punchy effect. The slider adds contrast to the mid-tones of your photos, and the result is to make details and edges really stand out. Check out the before (left) and after (right):

make-your-photos-pop-clarity-before-after

Texture, on the other hand, is a bit more refined. This slider basically sharpens the detail in your images, (but leaves the fine details alone). So Texture is a great option for dealing with images that have, well, texture. Rocks, walls, and peeling paint all look good with the Texture adjustment applied.

Here’s the same photo, without Texture (left) and with Texture (right):

make-your-photos-pop-texture-before-after

Because Lightroom is non-destructive, there’s no harm in trying out both adjustments and seeing which you prefer. Personally, I use Clarity more often than I use Texture, but they both have their place, and they can both make your details stand out.

A word of caution, however:

Clarity and Texture are both pretty easy to overdo. If your photos start to look crunchy, then it’s time to back off. Making details stand out is all well and good, but you don’t want to take things too far!

3. Boost the Vibrance or Saturation for rich colors

Up until now, I’ve talked about the value of contrast to make your photos pop.

But what about making the colors pop?

Deep, rich colors can add a lot to your images. Look at the difference between the colors in this photo:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Versus this one (where I’ve applied some basic color edits):

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Neat, right? And it doesn’t take much effort at all to pull this off. I regularly punch up my colors using either the Vibrance or Saturation slider in Lightroom. Just push the relevant slider to the right, and you’re done.

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

But how do you know whether to boost the Vibrance slider or the Saturation slider?

Well, as with Texture and Clarity, there’s no harm in testing out both options. But it’s worth knowing the difference between the two:

The Saturation slider boosts the intensity of your colors all throughout the image, whereas the Vibrance slider is more refined (kind of like a Smart Saturation tool). Vibrance will boost the intensity of colors, but only those colors that are less saturated, as well as skin tones.

So Vibrance is often a better choice when you’re dealing with variations in saturation levels, or when people are featured. Vibrance will keep colors from becoming oversaturated and will keep skin tones looking natural.

4. Add a subtle vignette to focus on your main subject

Here’s the last way you can make your photos pop and stand out:

Vignetting.

A vignette is a darkening effect that is generally placed at the edges of your photos, to keep the viewer focused on the main subject.

Here’s a (too strong) vignette for the sake of demonstration:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

In fact, the best vignettes are barely perceptible. Too much vignetting, and your photos will look muddy and unprofessional.

You want a vignette like this, instead:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Do you see what I mean?

Now, here’s how to create a beautiful (but still subtle!) vignette in Lightroom:

Open your photo in the Develop module. Scroll down the panels on the right side until you find Effects:

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Then, under Post-Crop Vignetting, drag the Amount slider to all the way to the left. You should notice an immediate vignetting effect on your photo.

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

Next, if your subject takes up much of the frame, you may want to boost the Midpoint slider a bit, to make sure that your main point of interest stays out of the vignette’s path.

And you’re also free to change the shape of the vignette (with the Roundness slider), as well as the transition strength (with the Feather slider). You can even preserve the highlights by boosting the Highlights slider if you so choose.

Finally, dial your vignette back by boosting the Amount slider…

…until you end up with a vignette that’s so slight that you can hardly even tell it’s there.

And that’s it! Now you’ll have a vignette that will focus your viewers, and they’ll hardly even know it.

How to make your photos pop in Lightroom: Next steps

As it turns out, it’s not difficult to make your photos pop and be much more eye-catching. All it takes is a few quick edits with the Lightroom sliders.

I recommend you go back to photos of yours that you’ve edited previously. Give them a bit of a contrast boost, and punch up the colors with some saturation. See how that makes them look.

You’ll be surprised to find that these simple changes can go a really long way!

Do you have any favorite Lightroom edits that instantly make your photos stand out? Share them in the comments!

How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!)

The post How to Make Your Photos Pop in Lightroom (With Just 4 Quick Edits!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

16 Nov

The post A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Do you want to capture amazing photos of birds? If so, you have to master bird photography compositions.

Composition refers to the arrangement of elements within the photo. And it’s often the difference between a creative, compelling image, and an image that just falls flat.

In this article, I’m going to share with you everything you need to know about bird photography composition. I’m going to give you several tips that ensure you capture beautiful bird photography compositions, without fail.

Sound good?

Let’s dive right in.

amazing-bird-photography-compositions

The composition basics: Capturing a gorgeous bird photo

When you take a bird photo, everything in the frame matters.

The bird. The position of the bird. The position of the bird’s head. The background. Any elements behind the bird. Any elements in front of the bird.

It’s all important.

Because the key to a gorgeous bird photography compositions is keeping the shot focused on your main subject.

amazing-bird-photography-compositions

You want to make sure that the bird stands out in the frame. You want to make sure everything else in the photo emphasizes and enhances the bird.

So how do you do that?

A few simple ways, starting with:

Simplify the entire composition to make the bird stand out

If your composition is chaotic, then the viewer is going to get lost.

And that’s absolutely not what you want.

Instead, you should aim to simplify the composition as much as possible. The best compositions tend to include a bird and a background. That’s it.

A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

While it’s possible to create beautiful shots by including additional birds or interesting features (e.g., shells, flowers), I recommend avoiding that as much as possible. These mess up compositions more often than they enhance them.

Also, in the interest of simplicity: If there’s anything in the frame that’s distracting, get rid of it. So make sure there are no branches behind the bird. Make sure there’s nothing in the background that dominates the frame or draws the eye.

That’s how you’ll keep your bird photography compositions beautiful.

And speaking of backgrounds:

Aim for a uniform, simple background that makes the bird pop

If you want a beautiful bird photography compositions, then you need a beautiful background.

What does this involve?

First, the best bird photography backgrounds are simple. They’re also uniform.

Like this:

A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

Notice how the background is a nice uniform color.

It keeps the attention on the bird. It doesn’t distract.

To create a background like this, you want to start by ensuring a large separation between the bird and the background. One trick is to get down low, on the bird’s level; this will cause the ground behind the bird to fall away, creating a more distant background.

You should also make sure you use a decently wide aperture, such as f/5.6 or f/6.3 (the particulars depend on the size of your bird, because you don’t want to accidentally make parts of the bird soft!).

Finally, you should ensure that the background doesn’t include colorful elements that catch the eye. Before you take a shot, look behind your bird, and ask yourself: Will anything in the background dominate the frame? Will anything pull the viewer away from the bird?

If the answer is “Yes,” then you should consider moving slightly to the left or right so that you’re no longer stuck with a distracting background.

Use the rule of thirds to position the bird’s eye

Now that you know how to capture beautiful backgrounds, it’s time to look at your main subject and how to position it.

Generally speaking, you’ll have a single bird in your photos. And you need to position this bird carefully.

You don’t want to put it smack-dab in the middle of the frame. That’s a recipe for a boring, static composition.

Instead, I recommend you place the bird so that its eye falls along a rule of thirds power point.

What is the rule of thirds power points?

They’re simply points that are a third of the way into the frame, both vertically and horizontally.

The eye in this photo, for instance, falls along a power point:

A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

It’s a third of the way down, and a third of the way from the left.

Now, the rule of thirds is misnamed; it’s a guideline, not a hard-and-fast rule. But it is a great way to position your bird and will ensure that the shot feels a lot more interesting.

So use the rule of thirds whenever you can to position your bird within the frame.

Point the bird into the frame to add movement

I’ve talked about positioning your main subject using the rule of thirds, but there’s another aspect to positioning that you should always, always consider:

The direction the bird is pointing.

You see, most bird photos have some empty space in the frame.

And when they do…

…you want to point the bird into the empty space, rather than away from it.

amazing-bird-photography-compositions

You see, by making sure the bird is looking into the empty space, it adds a sense of completeness and a sense of motion to the frame. The viewer’s eye follows the birds line of sight, and everything feels satisfying.

Whereas if you point the bird out of the frame, the whole shot feels tense. The viewer wants to know what’s outside the frame, with no resolution in sight.

That’s why bird photographers love to point the bird into the frame. It’s far more satisfying, and can turn the shot into something powerful.

Capture the bird in a creative pose for increased interest

Now, when it comes to bird photography, you can capture birds in a normal standing pose.

And that’ll get you some nice photos.

But sometimes…

This isn’t enough.

If you want to create truly creative bird photography, you need to go beyond the simple standing pose. And capture the bird doing something interesting.

What counts as interesting?

For one, preening birds look really interesting. They appear wonderfully tranquil as they clean their feathers.

A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions

And birds that are sleeping also give off a sense of peace that I love.

You can also go for action shots: Birds feeding, for instance, can create a lot of interest. You can capture photos of birds that are about to catch food, are currently catching food, or have just caught food. Think of a bird with a huge fish in its mouth.

It’s guaranteed to add interest.

Cool, right?

You can also go for shots of birds fighting or, as is a common bird photography practice, shots of birds flying. Photographing birds in flight can be a challenge, but a really rewarding one.

So whenever you’re able, don’t just take a standard bird photo. Go beyond this.

Make something unique!

A quick guide to amazing bird photography compositions: Conclusion

You should now have a sense of the best ways to capture beautiful bird photography compositions.

And remember:

Getting amazing compositions isn’t hard. You just have to use the tips that I’ve given you, and you’ll be taking stunning photos in no time.

Have other tips for gorgeous bird photography compositions? Share them in the comments!

amazing-bird-photography-compositions

The post A Quick Guide to Amazing Bird Photography Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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Quick and Easy Poses for any Couple During a Photoshoot

11 Jul

The post Quick and Easy Poses for any Couple During a Photoshoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Engagement sessions can feel intimidating and you might feel like your poses or photos are starting to look all the same. Or perhaps you’re having trouble getting a start at sessions? If that is the case, these poses will help you at your next engagement session and they work for all couples!

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-1

The following poses work for all couples. Give them a try and add variety to your photo session.

T-Bone Pose

This pose works for any couple as it is in the shape of a “T.” Place one person (the taller person) 45-degrees from the camera. Then place the other person’s shoulder into the armpit area of the taller person.

From here, the couple can hold hands, snuggle into the pose, look at each other, and even hug. Also, you can have the taller person, or the person standing at 45-degrees, kiss the person who is leaning into them on the forehead or cheek.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-2

See the shape of the “T” as the woman leans into the man’s chest in this photo and they snuggle close.

You can use this same pose with a little distance between the two and have them hold hands. Doing the pose this way can make it feel more powerful and strong.

Standing with arms interlocked

Start by having both people stand facing the camera. Ask one person to wrap their arms around the other person’s with the hands around the tricep/bicep area. Once they are in that pose, you can have the person who is wrapped around also lean their head on the shoulder.

Here you can add variety by getting up close and photographing the rings. Have the leaning person look down at their hands and get detail photos of their face. Alternatively, get one from farther back and have the couple look at each other in this pose.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-3

This particular pose also works if you photograph the couple from behind and ask them to touch noses, foreheads, or to kiss lightly.

One person in front and one person behind

This pose can offer many different photos since you can photograph it from different angles. Have one person standing slightly in front but off to the side of the other person.

Here they can stand holding hands, or you can even have one person facing backward and angled so that their back is to the camera but facing the other person. From here, you can ask them to look at each other. Have one person look at the camera, or have them get closer little by little while you capture their reactions.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-4

Have them face the camera and ask them to walk a bit with one person trailing behind. Do this a couple of times with them looking down, looking at each other, laughing or talking, or strolling. All of which will bring about authentic expressions while you’re photographing the pose.

Sitting down

Sitting down is another great pose for any couple. It can offer lots of different variations all within the same spot. You get different photos and won’t have to move your couple very much.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-5

A combination pose sitting down using the t-bone set up along with the arm wrapped around and the head leaning on the shoulder.

This pose works best if you have a staircase, ledge, or stool of some kind to offer different height options. However, don’t worry, it also works if they sit on a curb or the grass.

The key here is to have the couple sit comfortably as if they were sitting on their own during a date. From there, you can make adjustments to hand positions and where they are facing.

Have the couple sit next to each other at an angle. Or have one person leaning into the other in a sitting t-bone shape. You can even have one person sitting and the other standing.

Photograph them in this position from behind, side, and front. This will give you a lot of variety within the same pose. Have them snuggle, hold hands, caress or fix each other’s hair, kiss, close their eyes and go forehead to forehead, or touch noses. All of these are great variations of the same sitting down pose.

Using different focal lengths and apertures will give you a lot of different types of photos of the same moment.

Natural posing

When in doubt, natural posing may just be the best pose for all couples. It can be extremely useful at times during the session when it can seem like the poses are getting stale or repetitive.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-6

Natural posing is when you ask the couple to simply walk and enjoy the moment, or just sit and tell each other something they love about one another. You can also tell them to enjoy their surroundings or that you’ll be photographing them hanging out together as if you weren’t there.

This can bring about a lot of natural expressions, gestures, and relaxed poses from the couple that is much more authentic than any other pose you can put them in.

Usually, this works if you give them something to do like enjoying the moment or walking and exploring the location where they are. You can also tell them that you’re getting the settings right and just catch them being natural and relaxed.

This type of posing is really helpful at the beginning of sessions since most couples are nervous about having their photos taken. Getting them to relax while not having the pressure of looking at the camera or knowing how to pose can help them look natural.

Easy-Poses-for-any-Couple-During-a-Photoshoot-7

Also, use this when you feel like your poses are getting repetitive, or you feel like you’re out of ideas. Natural posing can also lead to natural cuddles that you can ask your couples to repeat and hold so that you can get the shot.

Natural posing can break up the session and make it more fun, especially if you’re at a location like a coffee shop, carnival, or doing an activity with the couple.

In conclusion

Using poses that work for all couples can a great solid foundation when you’re getting started in couple shoots.

Also, these poses work for all couples and therefore, can be helpful when you have run out of ideas or need something new to use at your next couples shoot.

Which pose will you try at your next couples session?

The post Quick and Easy Poses for any Couple During a Photoshoot appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

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DPReview TV: Fujifilm XF 16mm F2.8 quick review

27 Mar

Want a compact, wide angle prime for your X-mount camera? If so, Fujifilm’s new XF 16mm F2.8 might just be the lens for you. In this quick review, Chris and Jordan put it to the test – which, somehow, involved shooting through the glass floor of a skyscraper.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

Introduction
Perspective
Shooting from the Calgary Tower
Design
Autofocus
Close focus
Bokeh
CA and distortion
Wrap-up

Sample gallery from this week’s episode

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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3 Quick Tips for Achieving Moody Portraits with Natural Light

04 Mar

The post 3 Quick Tips for Achieving Moody Portraits with Natural Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

If, like me, you are drawn to moody portraits and have been wondering how to take them, read on. Achieving moody portraits with natural light can be quite simple. I hope this takes the mystery our of dark moody portraits in natural light.

3-tips-moody-natural-portraits-dps-lily-sawyer-photo

Before you start, plan your photo shoot first by keeping the following in mind: mood, tones (light or dark), outfits (colors to complement the tones), and the time of day to shoot. This may not make a difference to you, but to me, with my window north-east facing, I know I get decent light between 10am and 2pm, and after that, light availability deteriorates. This is the limitation of shooting with natural light. You are dependent on the amount and quality of the available light.

1. The importance of background

The easiest way to achieve a natural light moody portrait is by using a medium to dark background. The darkness of the background adds depth and the illusion of space and getting drawn into it. In effect, it also gives the illusion of a three-dimensional space. Not only that, but it also helps provide contrast between the background and the face of the subject which you want to emphasize and focus on. You draw the viewer’s eye to the image, and the background effectively provides context and setting.

There are various types of backgrounds: plain solid color, textured, scenery, and patterns such as wallpaper. Choose one that doesn’t clash with your subject (unless clashing is your intention) so that the portrait subject is the star of the show and the background is just that – background.

With a plain background, you can always add texture in post-production and change the tones up if you wish. Below is a side-by-side comparison of the photo without texture (left) and with a warm texture added (right).

3-tips-moody-natural-portraits-dps-lily-sawyer-photo

2. The importance of lighting

Because we are limiting ourselves to available natural light, it is a good idea to work with it. In most spaces, especially in homes, natural light comes from a 45-degree angle streaming from a window unless you have skylights in which case light comes from the top. You would want to cover that skylight and limit yourself to one light source coming from one direction, preferably 45-degree angle from the side. You want to place your subject in such a spot where the light hits them at this angle. Beware of placing the subject too close to the window as this tends to illuminate the face too much.

You want just a small amount of light touching the subject to achieve that ambiance and mood you are after. Before you shoot, look at the shadows on the face and especially under the nose. Position your subject by moving them around adjusting to the light and how the shadows fall on the face.

From a 45-degree angle window lighting where the window is higher than the subject, shadows on the face get cast at a slightly downward angle to the side opposite the light source. This is felt to be a pleasing shadow and is also known as the Rembrandt lighting. I have written an article touching on this with both natural and artificial lights on here.

With Rembrandt lighting, you need a reflector positioned on the opposite side of the light. The aim is to reflect some of the window light back onto the subject’s face, so you get a softer gradation of shadows instead of a very sharp drop from light to dark. If you don’t have a reflector, you can use a white sheet or white piece of cardboard.

Reflectors come in different colors which cast a tint on the face so choose carefully. See here for a side-by-side comparison of what different types of reflectors do.

3. The importance of light diffusion

Diffusion is passing the light source through a translucent material so that the light is spread out instead of coming from a concentrated source. Once spread, it touches the subject more softly thus removing the harshness of otherwise undiffused light.

One can argue that, on a cloudy day, available natural light coming from a window is already diffused by the great big clouds above. I agree with this. However, if you have the option to diffuse, I would still do it. On a sunny day where the light is powerful, I would say diffusion is an absolute must.

In the photo above, the window light is frosted at the bottom and covered in a voile fabric at the top thereby acting as a diffuser. From my experience of shooting for more than a decade, I have learned to see the difference between undiffused and diffused light and the former is definitely softer and better for the skin.

Overall, it’s a factor that contributes to achieving the type of moody portrait I am aiming for in this shoot.

I hope you found this helpful! Do share your moody portraits here and any tips you have too!

The post 3 Quick Tips for Achieving Moody Portraits with Natural Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

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6 Quick Tips for Low Light Smartphone Photography

18 Aug

The team over at COOPH consistently come up with some great video tips. In this one, get 6 tips doing some creative low light smartphone photography.

Low Light Smartphone Photography Tips

Summary of the tips:

Backlit portraits
Light painting portraits
Dark object photography
Side-lit portraits
Ghostly exposures
Nighttime cityscapes

?
We have articles here on dPS covering those topics in more detail if you want to try them out with your smartphone or your regular DSLR or mirrorless camera.

The dPS Ultimate Guide to Taking Portraits and Photographing People
How to Create a Dynamic Light Painting Portrait
Five Essentials of Doing Dark Food Photography
Why You Should Make Dark Images
6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
How to Take Unique Double Exposures Without Using Photoshop
How to Create a Luminous Look for Your Photographs
How to Find the Best Possible Time to Shoot Cityscapes at Blue Hour
How to do Long Exposure Photography and Light Trails at Night

Want more info on smartphone photography? We got a few on that too:

Equipment List for Making Better Smartphone Videos
Tips for Better Smartphone Photography
9 More Great Apps You Need for Your Smartphone
Review: Struman Lenses for Mobile Phones
How to Use a Cell Phone for Dramatic Night Photography
8 Ways to Use Your Smartphone for Photography
How to Get Stunning Macro Photos with Your Mobile Phone

Tell us, do you haul your main camera with you everywhere you go? Or do you use what you have on you at the time, your smartphone? Do you have any additional tips for better low light smartphone photography? Let us know in the comments below.

The post 6 Quick Tips for Low Light Smartphone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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A Quick Primer On Resolution and Photo Scanning

08 Aug

When you are setting out to digitize your collection of old photos and film, scanning resolution is an important attribute to consider. This number is crucial when you are thinking of printing your scanned images rather than just viewing them on a screen. Since most people, at some point or the other, will want to create memorable keepsakes – framed Continue Reading

The post A Quick Primer On Resolution and Photo Scanning appeared first on Photodoto.

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9 Quick Tips for Better Black and White Photos

28 Jul

Here’s an 11-minute video from Jamie Windsor that is filled with 9 quick tips that you can use to improve your black and white photos in an instant.

“For most of us these days, black and white is an after-thought,” says Windsor. “It’s a creative filter that we have on Instagram.”

But Windsor points out that black and white photography is “much more than an editing technique” – and he would be right!

To make strong, powerful monochromatic images, it is important to approach the shot knowing that it will be the final result. It allows you to think differently, adapt your creative techniques, and see the scene in front of you in a different light.

Once you’ve finished watching the video, make sure to check out dPS’s own black and white photography eBook for further tips and tricks!

Summary of the 9 tips for better black and white photos:

Plan to shoot in black and white
Look for the abstract shots
Shoot in RAW or use Color Filters
Use long exposures
Utilize the Dodge and Burn Tool
Understand how light is affected
Try Using HDR (High Dynamic Range)
Emphasize the mood
Shoot black and white photos that should be in color

Have you shot any black and white images lately? Show us in the comments below!

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Quick Beginner’s Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw

07 Jul

Do you shoot RAW but then open it without processing? When you take a photo in RAW format, regardless of the name each brand gives to it, what you’re doing is saving a bunch of data without processing it inside your camera. This way you have more information to work with during your post-production stage.

But having too much of something can sometimes seem daunting when you don’t know how to approach it and as a result be a limiting factor instead of opening up your possibilities.

Adobe Camera Raw – Processing Raw Files in Photoshop

This quick introduction guide explores the basic tools of Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) so that you can step into post-processing this digital “negative” and understand its possibilities but also its limitations, as not all can be fixed.

ACR Raw Post-processing Photoshop Basic Adjustments

Whenever you open a RAW file in Photoshop it won’t open in the interface that would normally go to when opening a JPG or a TIF file. It will open it in a window known as Above Camera Raw (ACR). Here you’ll see a lot of options that can look intimidating and give you the impulse to just click open and work directly on Photoshop.

However, if you do so then you’re missing out on a lot of opportunities, most importantly its non-destructive qualities. Please note, that I’m not going to explain the tools in the order you’ll find them in the ACR panel because some of them are related to each other and therefore it’s clearer to explain them together regardless of their position.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw

EXPOSURE

The first slider you will see is Exposure. This would be the equivalent of changing your shutter speed or f-stop settings up to five steps up or down. What this does influence the brightness of your entire image. Look at the example below to see how far you can push it in either direction.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw - exposure

CONTRAST AND CLARITY

The next slider you’ll find is Contrast, this refers to the relationship between the lighter and darkest areas of your photo. If you slide it to the right you will increase the contrast which is why a plus sign (+) will appear next to the amount. Moving it to the left will decrease contrast, therefore a minus (-) sign appears. This will flatten the image as there will be less tonal range in between dark and light tones in your image.

A few sliders below Contrast you’ll find Clarity. This is a tool I really like because it gives a nice punch to your photos but it’s easy to overdo it and having them look unnatural, so just be careful. I am mentioning it here because it also adds contrast but this is only to the mid-tones (technically it finds and enhances edges in the image), plus it gives a sharp/unsharp effect to the image.

Note: Clarity is not an actual sharpening tool.

Here’s an example pushing both tools to the limit in either direction so you can see that even if they are related, the result is not the same.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw - contrast and clarity

HIGHLIGHTS AND WHITES

Then there is the Highlights slider which I’ll explain together with another one, Whites. I’m doing this because they are closely related. The names are actually quite accurate but somehow their use is still difficult to grasp. Having said that, I’ll try to make it more clear.

The Highlights slider controls the tonal range from the lighter parts of your image, like this:

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw - highlights slider

The Whites slider should have its name in the singular to make it more clear because what it does is set the white point of your image, in other words, the brightest pixels.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw - whites slider

So if you move the white point of the image, it will have an effect on the range of the highlights. Let’s see them work together.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw - highest highlights

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw

SHADOWS AND BLACKS

In between those sliders you’ll find one called Shadows which together with Blacks works the same way as Highlights and Whites, but in the other side of the light scale.

Therefore, the Blacks slider sets the black point of the image and affects a wider tonal range than the one affected by shadows that refers to the darkest parts. Check the example below to have an illustration of how they work.

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw

SATURATION AND VIBRANCE

Saturation is the next slider on the list. It has an impact on all the colors of your image so keep an eye on the entire image while you are applying it and not just on a detail or a zoomed-in portion. If dragged completely to the left you’ll lose all color and leave your image black and white. Dragged all the way to the right, Saturation can reach very intense colors.

However, if you only want to affect the colors that are dull, to begin with instead of the entire image, then you should use the Vibrance slider. This one can also have a big effect, to the point of reaching unnatural colors so be careful. Look at the difference:

Quick Guide to Processing RAW Files in Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw

When you’re happy with your image, you can just save the changes and leave it as is or you can open the image in Photoshop to continue working on it.

However, if you’re choosing the latter I suggest that instead of just clicking Open Image, press the shift key so that the button changes to Open Object. This way you’ll open your image on Photoshop as a Smart Object and you can come back to these ACR options and make some more adjustments later if you need to.

To learn more about it I invite you to check my tutorial How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop.

Conclusion

I hope this makes it more clear for you. Remember that ACR offers other menu possibilities and there are various menus and tools that were too much to cover in this quick, beginner’s guide. So use this as a base and then keep exploring!

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6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

13 Jun

For many of us in the Northern Hemisphere, it is finally here – sunshine – the time of year most synonymous with new beginnings, transition and growth all thanks to the powerful rays of the sun. After months of dark dreary weather and perhaps a mood that matches staying indoors, we are finally ready to shed those winter blues and head outside with our gear. So in the spirit of getting you out of the house and into the outdoors, here are a few tips to help you do summer photography and revel in all its glory!

6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography - purple flowers

#1 No more excuses period!

Shake off that hibernation mentality and get yourself out the door. Often times, some of the first signs of spring can be spotted right outside your front door so you maybe don’t need to go far. Or better yet, take a walk around your neighborhood and start noticing the transition as spring works its way into summer.

It is amazing how leaves, color, and budding florals can make an old place feel like new again.

white flowers - 6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

#2 Seasons and change can be a good thing

I know the whole time change thing that happens here in the US is debatable to many. But personally, I wait for spring forward. Yes, I lose an extra hour of sleep but it also means that the days start getting longer and that magical golden light at the end of the day is more within my reach.

With each and every day that passes, we are given more daylight, which provides greater opportunity to grab that camera and capture the golden hues. So head to a nearby park or even an open prairie and take in the whole scene. Use your wide angle lens to capture the big picture in your summer photography.

Karthika Gupta Photography - Memorable Jaunts DPS Article 6 ways to photograph spring-7

patio - 6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

#3 Embrace pattern play

As you’re taking in your surroundings, notice unique patterns and textures that are created by plants, water, and trees. Summer has this amazing ability to make everything colorful, so go ahead and use all that color to add a little punch to your photos.

Color, patterns, and textures add so much more interest in photos so use that to your advantage.

plants on shelves - 6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

flower in the garden - 6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

#4 The light and shadow dance

Mother nature really is a wonder. As winter changed into spring, the whole world seems to get lighter and transition into a new phase. You can almost sense that change in the air again.

The quality of light also changes and with that the play of light and shadows is quite spectacular. Use this time as an opportunity to experiment with light and shadows and use these elements to create drama and interest using different subjects.

peony - 6 Quick Tips for Doing Summer Photography

#5 Capture those blooms

When the flowers and trees start blooming all around us it really feels like a breath of fresh air. Capture those blooms and see how vibrant they make everything else appear. Look for a neutral background like white siding or pastel walls to bring highlight to the florals.

Karthika Gupta Photography - Memorable Jaunts DPS Article-8

#6 Work around the weather

Rain showers and sunshine seem to go hand-in-hand with summer. I suggest you embrace all of Mother Nature’s tantrums and photograph around it. Use that rain cover to step out into the rain to photograph the scene. If you don’t have a rain cover for your gear, maybe stay indoors and photograph the outside from your window. Or even get in the car, go for a drive and photograph from the comfort of your car!

Notice how rain changes the light completely and embrace that softness for a very different look to a normally sunny scene.

I hope these tips help get you in the mood to pick up that camera more often and get back into the swing of photography if you have been suffering from the winter blues.

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