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Posts Tagged ‘Photos’

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning

20 Apr

The holy grail of travel photography is a stunning photo looking into the vast distance taken at sunrise or sunset. It seems to just work as a blend of color, composition, and light to create something that often makes the viewer utter that famous word that any photographer wants to hear, “Wow!”.

But why is it then that so often when you look at your own sunrise or sunset photos they don’t look so stunning? Here are 5 reasons why your sunrise or sunset photos don’t live up to your expectations.

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning - sunset on the coast

#1 – What’s the point?

I remember a picture editor once told me, “This might sound controversial, but a sunrise or sunset is actually pretty boring.” What he was referring to was the lack of compelling subject matter in a photo of a sunrise or sunset like for example an empty beach with just the setting sun.

While sitting on a beach and seeing a sunset can seem like a wonderful experience, unfortunately, the camera cannot replicate that. Most successful photos of sunrises or sunsets have a point of interest in them, in that there is a subject that is the main story and the sunrise or sunset is providing the light and the atmosphere.

That story doesn’t necessarily have to be a person or an object in the frame. The story could be the beautiful scenery or the crashing waves against the coast. But the key point is that there is something that gets the viewers’ attention. So, don’t just rely on the sunrise or sunset, try to build your composition using it as an addition rather than the story.

boring sunset photo - 5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning

This photo just isn’t very interesting. There’s a lack of interesting clouds or even water movement.

In this image, the big rock in the foreground, footsteps in the sand and the people all add interest and context to the photo.

#2 – Clouds or no clouds?

For example, one element that can dramatically improve your sunrise or sunset photos is some clouds. Take your generic empty beach scenario from above, but this time add some dramatic clouds that the light can bounce off and suddenly you’ll go from something mundane to something that looks fantastic.

The clouds here add drama to the scene.

Of course, you can’t control the elements and no clouds in the sky means, there’s nothing you can do. In that scenario, you just have to work harder to frame your shot and give the viewer a point of interest.

While you generally want some clouds in the sky, too much cloud cover and you will often find the light seems flat and dull and the whole photo looks uninteresting (unless the sun can set below the clouds and light them up from underneath). So, in conclusion, while you ideally want some clouds, it’s important not to have a completely overcast day. You can, of course, plan your shoots around times when you will have the best conditions.

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning

#3 – Are your highlights and shadows correct?

One of the big challenges in photographing sunrise or sunsets is the vast contrast you get between highlights and shadows. Your highlights are the light areas of your photo (such as the sky for example) and your shadows are the dark areas in the photo (for example your foreground).

If either is pushed too far you will get completely white areas for highlights and completely black areas for shadows. This means that these areas contain no pixel details and is something you want to avoid.

The problem you face when photographing sunsets or sunrises is that your sky will be bright, and your foreground will be dark (a high dynamic range). The way that you can ensure that your highlights and shadows are exposed correctly in this scenario is to use a graduated neutral density filter to balance out the difference in the highlights and shadows.

There are also other techniques such as exposure bracketing as well that can help you achieve this in post-production and actually just brightening or darkening these areas in a software like Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom. But whatever you decide, just make sure that your highlights and shadows are exposed correctly and fine-tune them if you need to in post-production.

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning - clipped shadow areas

The blue areas on this photo indicate where the shadows are being clipped (black with no detail).

Here the same image has been adjusted in post-processing to hold more detail in the shadow areas. 

#4 – The image isn’t framed correctly

One of the key elements in ensuring the final photo looks great is to frame your composition correctly.

The easiest way to do this and a good starting point for any photographer is the famous Rule of Thirds where you try to place key points of interest on the intersection of the lines. But the Rule of Thirds is also worth remembering for your horizon line. Usually, you will find that placing the horizon either on the top third or the bottom third will look better than slap bang in the middle.

Horizon centrally framed.

Using the rule of thirds, the horizon here is on the lower third – off-center.

But try to consider the whole picture when framing your shot. Think if there are any areas that are just wasted space where you can crop in tighter. Or if your camera angle is slightly off and you can benefit by just moving a little to either side.

The beauty of photography these days is that you can usually take as many photos as it takes to get your shot framed right. So, play around with your composition and capture a few alternatives that you can then review later in post-production.

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning

Your camera may have the option to display the Rule of Thirds grid when you’re shooting or in image playback mode.

#5 – You haven’t fixed mistakes

Usually, the first bit of feedback that I often give newbie photographers when I look at their sunrise or sunset photos is on elements that could easily be fixed in post-production. Whether you are an advocate of post-production or not there are certain things that you simply should not forego on any photo.

The two biggest of these are:

  1. Ensuring that your photos are straight, that means the horizon line needs to be dead straight.
  2. Making sure you have the correct white balance for the photo (if you haven’t already done so when taking the photo). Think about the scene that you are showing, is it a warm and golden scenario or is it a cool and crisp setting? Either way, tweak your white balance until it is correct.

If you do nothing else in post-production, just making sure these two settings are correct will immediately improve your photos.

5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning - crooked horizon line

This image is clearly not straight as can be seen from the horizon line.

Here the image tilt has been corrected.

Conclusion

Sunsets and sunrises are wonderful times in the day to photograph things. The soft golden light can transform an ordinary scene into an extraordinary one. When done well, they are often the photos that will be the “show stoppers” in any portfolio.

But always remember that a sunset and sunrise needs to work in combination with your composition and subject matter to create a wonderful photo. Follow these tips and you’ll be on your way to capturing great photos of sunrise and sunsets.

Now it’s your turn to get involved. Share your great sunrise and sunset photos below.

The post 5 Reasons Why Your Sunrise or Sunset Photos Don’t Look So Stunning appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Photos of violence and escape win 2018 Pulitzer Prizes for photography

17 Apr

The 2018 Pulizer Prizes were announced yesterday, and in the two photography categories, images of violence and escape from violence took home the coveted gold medals.

In the Breaking News Photography category, photojournalist Ryan Kelly won for his shocking image of a car plowing into counter-protestors of the Unite the Right protest in Charlottesville, VA on August 12th, 2017. As Poynter reports, this photograph was actually taken on Kelly’s final day as a staff photographer for The Daily Progress. He left the job due to the “state of the industry, stress and schedule,” but not before capturing a photograph seen around the world:

In the Feature Photography category, not one photographer but an entire staff received the award. The medal went to “The Photography Staff of Reuters” for the publication’s coverage of Rohingya refugees fleeing violence in Myanmar. Reuters has shared several GIFs and still images on the Reuters Pictures Twitter (embedded below), but you can see the full series at this link.

The winners highlight the importance of photojournalism on vastly different scales. As Kelly told Poynter, his Pulitzer Prize win “is a super valuable reminder for people of the power of local journalism.” The Reuters win, meanwhile, highlights the role photojournalism can play on a global scale, exposing the rest of the world to realities it might otherwise never see, or choose to ignore.

As always, the winners each receive $ 15,000 prize money and the coveted gold medal.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

13 Apr

Your camera can’t see the light and tones as well as you can. Cameras have not yet been developed to a stage where they can record a tonal range in a single, unmanipulated image as broad as you can see with your eyes.

Portrait of a senior woman being made by a photographer - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Our brains are constantly evaluating the light and making adjustments dynamically so you get to see far more detail in the brightest and darkest areas of whatever you are looking at, as well as in the mid-tones. Understanding this difference between what you see and what your camera records will help you to become a more creative photographer, (and save you time post-processing your photos.)

Different Types of Light

Basically light can be hard or soft, direct or diffused. Direct light, usually from a relatively small light source, creates a hard-edged shadow, like on a sunny day. Light that is diffused, like you experience when the sun is behind a cloud, makes soft shadows or virtually no shadows at all.

Woman selling fresh fruit at a market in Chiang Mai - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Hard light – characterized by high contrast, hard edges, and lots of texture and detail.

Unloading produce at a market in Chiang Mai, Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Soft light is characterized by gentle or no shadows, lower contrast, and less texture and detail.

Light will have various other qualities as well depending on the time of day, season, atmospheric conditions, and geographic location. Light can be warm and have a golden tone, mostly in the mornings and evenings. It can also be cold and have a bluish tone, often in city streets where buildings block the sun or on heavily overcast days.

Different Tonal Ranges

Typically with soft light, you have a narrower tonal range (lower contrast). In conditions with soft light, your camera will be more capable of producing images with detail in the shadows and also the highlights, if you expose your photos well.

Tricycle Taxi Rider in Chiang Mai, Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Soft Light

With hard light, the tonal range between the brightest and darkest parts of an image can be far more extreme. Your camera may not be capable of recording detail in the highlights and in the darkest parts of your image, in a single frame (I am not concerned with HDR or other manipulations here).

Street scene in Thailand with tricycle taxis and traffic - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Hard Light

As you learn to see light and understand the type of light in which you are photographing, you will get a feel for it and become more creative and more precise technically with your photography.

Using Light to Fit the Mood

If you want to create a gentle portrait with soft, relaxing tones you will not just need your subject to be in the right mood, but you will need the lighting to fit with the mood as well. A soft, diffused light will help you reach your goal whereas trying to create this style of portrait outdoors in the middle of a bright sunny day will be far more difficult.

Portrait of a young Kayan girl - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

Soft light here allows for detail in all areas of the image and for a flattering portrait of the girl.

Sometimes working with soft light can be challenging if it is just too flat and dull and offers very little tonal range in your subject. In these situations, I will look to add some alternative light source from a flash or reflector to add a more dynamic look to my photos.

Hard light can make for more dramatic pictures. Using the contrast range so parts of your composition are isolated, either because they are too bright or too dark for your camera to record, is often an effective method towards producing more creative photographs.

Close up of a Hmong woman hand sewing - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

The hard light here highlights the hands making the background completely black.

Carefully Control Your Exposures

Taking control of your exposure so you are only rendering the detail in the highlights and allowing the shadow areas to show little or no detail, is a great technique to learn. Alternatively, in hard light situations, you can set your exposure for the dark areas of your composition and you will lose detail in the highlights.

Photographers who are more technically oriented and believe you must have an evenly exposed image with no loss of detail may struggle with this concept.

Buddhist monks walking in the morning, Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

When you have a concept for a photograph (or series of photographs) you want to make, creating the photos in the best lighting will have a significant impact on your results. Choosing the optimum lighting to create the feeling you want to capture in your photo brings a greater depth to your pictures and more feeling of connection with those who view them.

Concerning yourself primarily with technical details will not have the same effect in many cases.

Getting Creative With Light

Lighting can be a bit of a dilemma if it does not fit the mood or scenario you are wanting to photograph. Pushing yourself to create interesting, captivating images even when you are faced with adverse lighting conditions is a great challenge to embrace and will help you grow as a photographer.

Street festival in Mae Hong Son - Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos

I used some off-camera flash here because the ambient light was very flat.

Pay attention to the light wherever you are, even if you don’t have a camera with you, just see light. Think about it. Consider the qualities of light and how they will affect the photos you take.

Will the light help you or hinder you in creating the style of photographs you want to make?

Buddhist monk lighting a candle taken during a Chiang Mai Photo Workshop

Learn to See Light

If the light is not right for what you want to achieve in your photos you will need to make changes by adding light, from a flash or reflector or another additional light source. Sometimes even just changing your point of view in relation to your subject will have a significant influence on the mood and look of the lighting. For example, using backlighting instead of front or side lighting.

The more you can learn to see the light and understand how it will affect your images, the more creative you can become with your camera. There are some additional tips in the video below to help you see the light.

The post Tips for Learning How to See the Light and Take Better Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The Gnarbox 2.0 SSD lets you backup photos, make selects, review footage and more

03 Apr

If you’re looking to seriously speed up your on-location photo and video workflow without carrying around a laptop, the new Gnarbox 2.0 SSD should probably be at the top of your gear wishlist.

Debuted earlier through crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, Gnarbox 2.0 SSD allows you to backup your photos and video in the field, review and rough-cut footage, cull and edit images, showcase selects, and seamlessly transition all of this into your professional workflow once you’re back in the studio.

Gnarbox does so much it’s kind of hard to describe, but the video above and Gnarbox’s own description from the Kickstarter campaign below do a pretty good job.

GNARBOX 2.0 SSD is a rugged backup device for content creators who prefer to travel without a laptop. Unlike other portable hard drives, we have assembled an ecosystem of mobile applications that serve the professional workflow from the field to the studio.

With single-step backup, dedicated workspaces for photographers and videographers, and integrated access to professional editing software, GNARBOX will save you time and make you a more reliable creator.

The Gnarbox 1.0—which we actually recommended in last year’s holiday gift guide—provided a compelling solution for photographers and videographers who do a lot of work on-location. And everything 1.0 could do, the Gnarbox 2.0 SSD can do better and faster.

Inside the newest build you’ll find a 2.4 GHz Intel Quad Core processor, 4GB of RAM, and up to 1TB of NVMe SSD storage; photos and video can be uploaded to the device using either the SD card slot or one of the two USB-C ports; and the whole thing is powered by a replaceable battery that promises enough juice to back up 36,000 photos, review up to 10 hours of 4K video, and transfer one full TB of data.

All of that hardware works together with a set of dedicated apps—Safekeep, Selects, Sequence, and Showcase—that allow this little computer-in-a-box to do all of the things mentioned above.

  • Safekeep: The most complete field backup experience, with tailored file/folder organization and sleek tools to manage file transfers across your devices.
  • Selects: Provides super-fast RAW image preview and easy-to-use tools to mark your selects, manage metadata, and save time preparing your shots for edit.
  • Sequence: Has the tools you need to review footage, start rough cuts in the field, and seamlessly transition your video project to the studio.
  • Showcase: Lets you view your photos and videos in high resolution on any HDMI-enabled screen.

Here’s a closer look at the new Gnarbox 2.0:

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As we said at the top, this is a pretty compelling solution for on-location photographers and videographers who don’t want to carry a laptop. And apparently, we’re not the only ones who think so: it only took 39 minutes for the new Gnarbox 2.0 to breeze past its Kickstarter funding goal.

As of this writing, with 59 days to go, the company has already raised nearly $ 200,000, which makes us pretty confident they’ll deliver product come December.

To learn more about the Gnarbox 2.0 SSD or order one for yourself—pledges start at $ 300 for a 128GB version and max out at $ 700 for the largest 1TB build—head over to the Kickstarter campaign. If you’re quick, you might even snag one of the very last Early Bird deals still available when we hit Publish.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Create Silky Split Toned Black and White Photos Using Luminosity Masks

22 Mar

Have you ever found it hard to choose between processing an image in color or black and white? It can be a tough decision. Enriching colors that instantly captivate your attention versus a timeless black and white photograph full of texture and complex shadows.

There’s every chance you’ll process both versions because you can’t have the best of both worlds, right? Well, with split toning, maybe you can – sort of.

1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Split Toning 101

At its core, split toning is a pretty simple editing technique. You can create a split tone effect by simply introducing color into the highlights and/or shadows of your photograph.

It’s often used by photographers (and extensively by film makers) to recreate a film look and to create a consistent style across a series of images. In recent years, it’s become renowned for creating the ever so popular “orange and teal” look.

These days, the mere thought of split toning your photograph is greeted with groans of “not another Insta-image”. But for all of its popularity on social media platforms, perhaps split toning is most effective when applied to black and white photographs. This is where its subtle tones combine with texture and luminance to create sumptuous results.

2 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Black and White Versus Color

Colors are powerful. Not only do they add excitement and interest, but they also set the tone for your images. By default, colors come with a little extra baggage – they’re moody, symbolic and represent a preconceived tone.

3 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Tones such as reds, yellows, and oranges are usually associated with warm, gooey feelings of love and comfort.

4 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Whereas the cooler tones such as blue, cyan and magenta are typically associated with melancholic feelings of calmness and reflection.

You could almost think of color as a way of spoon-feeding the viewer with the tone, style, and mood of your images. Essentially, colors can make your job of storytelling a lot easier.

With this in mind, you’d be forgiven for wanting to enhance the emotion of your photographs by pumping up the saturation of your colors. But there’s a consequence. They’re too powerful.

Color Can be a Distraction

For all of their excitement and emotional qualities, colors have the potential to be overly dominant and cause major distractions. I’m not going to pretend I know the science behind why this is, but have you ever noticed that black and white photographs appear to offer a little more oomph? A particular grittiness.

It’s almost like they have a 3-dimensional quality that seduces your eyes and encourages them to roll around in the graduating tones. Okay, maybe it’s just me.

The theory goes that the presence of strong color can make it more difficult for your eyes to detect luminance, perceive depth, and absorb the finer detail in your images. A problem black and white photographs need not worry about.

5 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

You may notice that your primary focus flickers from color to color instead of exploring the shapes and textures of the building in this image.

6 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Removing the color helps your eyes to journey through the maze-like building to explore the textures, lines, and shapes.

Enter Split Toning

Without color, your eyes turn into luminance seeking missiles as they journey deep into your image to revel in silky graduating tones, land on interesting shapes, and explore complex textures.

So how do you combine the moody nature of color with the textural qualities of a black and white image?

This is where split toning makes its grand entrance. Applying a subtle color to the highlights and shadows of your black and white photographs gives you a slice of the emotional qualities that color can offer, without disguising the depth and texture of your black and white photograph.
Who said you can’t have the best of both worlds?

7 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Basic Color Theory 101

Before you dive in and start splashing color around as if you’re celebrating the Holi festival, it’s a good idea to have a basic understanding of color theory. Then you’ll know exactly what colors to combine when you split tone your black and white photographs.

The Adobe color wheel is a great tool that represents the relationship between primary, secondary, and tertiary colors. Photographers, designers, and artists often apply basic color theory to the color wheel to create visually appealing color palettes for their work.

8 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here are three common color schemes you can use to develop a subtle, harmonious, or contrasting color palette for your split toned black and white photographs.

Analogous Color Scheme

An easy way to understand the analogous color scheme, which also avoids you having to pronounce it, is to think of it as a really good set of next-door neighbors.

9 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Analogous color schemes use colors that are directly next to one another on the color wheel. They are naturally harmonious and can often be found in nature.

Triadic Color Scheme

10 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Triadic color schemes use colors that are evenly distributed around the color wheel. This type of color scheme is typically more vibrant and interesting than an analogous one.

Complementary Color Scheme

11 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Colors that are directly opposite one another on the color wheel are known as complementary colors.

If you have watched almost any movie in the last 10 years or scrolled through your Instagram feed in the last 10 minutes, it’s highly likely you would have noticed a strong presence of orange and teal colors. This is a perfect example of a complementary color scheme.

Brief Recap

So far I have briefly covered the advantages of color and black and white photographs and how, in theory, it’s somewhat possible to combine their qualities to get the best of both worlds using a split toning technique. I’ve also introduced a basic level of color theory, so you will know how to create visually attractive color combinations in your split toned images.

At this point, you might be wondering how to apply all this wonderful information and actually split tone your photographs. So, let’s dive in and bring it all together.

How to Create a Silky Split Tone Effect

A common and very easy way to split tone your images would be to use the Lightroom Split Toning tab in the Develop Module.

12 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

This allows you to select a specific hue for the highlights and shadows, adjust the saturation, and the balance of the effect.

13 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

While this method is extremely fast and produces acceptable results, it lacks the ability to infuse your images with a triadic or analogous color scheme. More importantly, it doesn’t allow you to control how the split toning effect is applied to the different tones in your image.

Using Luminosity Masks in Photoshop

Having more control can help you to create a silky split toned black and white photograph that makes you want to instantly hit print and proudly publish it for all to see. To gain this level of control you’ll need to take a deep breath and join me as we take a big brave step into Photoshop.

Step 1: Creating Luminosity Masks

To get started you’ll need to open up Photoshop and load a series of luminosity masks.

If you’ve just exhaled that deep breath with a, “Huh!? What is that!?” there’s no need to run a “What’s a luminosity mask?” Google search. All the basic information you need (and a free action that does all the work for you) is available right here.

Originally developed and thoroughly documented by Tony Kuyper, luminosity masking is regarded as one of the most effective techniques to control your images in Photoshop.

Despite its complex sounding name, luminosity masking is a relatively easy technique you can use to apply subtle adjustments to your images in a clean and effective way.

14 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Several tonal adjustments were applied to this image using luminosity masks to gradually build contrast and depth in this image.

Luminosity masks are commonly used among landscape and architecture photographers to seamlessly blend bracketed exposures, gradually build contrast, and create silky black and white photographs. They work by creating a series of selections that isolate the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows on a granular level, which allows you to target specific tones based on their luminance (brightness) value.

Sadly, the process of creating luminosity masks is nowhere near as fun as using them. So, to save you (and me) from:

  • Death by 100 confusing screenshots detailing how they are created
  • Spending 15 minutes creating luminosity masks every time you want to split tone an image in Photoshop

Here’s a link to download a Photoshop Action that includes all the information you need to install and create luminosity masks in a just a few clicks.

15 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Luminosity masks in Photoshop.

Essentially, having a selection of luminosity masks at your disposal gives you ultimate control over your photographs. It means you’re able to work with the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows independently of one another. Which, if you’re partial to the odd black and white photograph, provides you with the perfect system to create a beautiful split toning effect.

Step 2: Create a Color Palette

With your luminosity masks created, head over to the Adobe color wheel to create a visually attractive color palette. Note down the hex value of your desired colors, as you will need these in the next step. For this example, we’ll create a complementary color scheme.

16 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 3: Apply your Shadow Color

Create a Solid Color Adjustment Layer and enter the hex code of the color you’d like to introduce into your shadows.

17 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 4: Color Blending

Change the blend mode of the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to “Color”. As you do so, you’ll notice that your entire image will be colorized with the hue you selected. Now select the default white layer mask and delete it by dragging it to the trash can icon.

18 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 5: Select a Luminosity Mask

Navigate to the Channels tab and locate the luminosity masks you created using the Photoshop action in step one. You’ll notice that seven luminosity masks with varying degrees of intensity have been created for your highlights, likewise for your shadows, and two luminosity masks will target the mid-tones of your image.

15 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Luminosity masks are stored in the Channels tab.

The aim here is to apply one of these luminosity masks to the Solid Color Adjustment Layer you just created. This will restrict the effect of the adjustment layer to only appear in specific areas of your image.

Clicking on each of the luminosity masks allows you to preview the target areas of your image.

Luminosity masks work much in the same way as regular masks. The white areas of the mask will reveal the effect and the black areas of the mask will conceal it. The grey areas of a luminosity mask will partially reveal the effect which helps to create a subtle and clean finish.

19 1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Clicking on a luminosity mask allow you to preview what areas of your image it targets.

The general aim is to select a luminosity mask with just enough white (and gray) in the areas where you’d like the color to be visible. As a rule of thumb, when choosing a luminosity mask to add color into your highlights, selecting the “Lights 2” or “Lights 3” mask usually works well.

If you intend to introduce a color into the shadows of your image (like in this example), then you may find that using the “Darks 2”, “Darks 3” or “Darks 4” luminosity masks will provide you with a silky-smooth finish.

19 2 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

The white areas represent where the blue tone will be revealed.

Step 6: Load Luminosity Selection

With your chosen Luminosity Mask selected click on the “Load mask as selection” button at the bottom of the Channels panel. Upon doing so, you’ll notice that the marching ants appear to indicate the selection.

20 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 7: Create a Layer Mask

Navigate back to your layers tab, select your solid color layer and click the “Add Layer Mask” button. This will create a layer mask using the luminosity selection which will restrict the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to only be visible in the white areas of the mask.

In the example, you can see that the blue color tone is now only visible in the darker areas of the image.

21 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Loading the “Darks 4” luminosity mask helps to restrict the effect to the shadow areas only.

Step 8: Refine Your Color

At this stage, there’s every chance the effect will look a little too strong and not very subtle. This is where working with adjustment layers and masks gives you complete control.

To refine the effect, double-click on the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to reduce the saturation and brightness. If need be, you can also adjust the overall opacity of the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to soften the effect.

22 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Reducing the saturation and brightness helps to create silky smooth shadows.

If your effect is still too strong then you may want to consider deleting the layer mask and repeating steps 5 and 6 to select a luminosity mask with a softer selection.

Step 9: Housekeeping

To help keep your layers neat and tidy, you can rename the Solid Color Adjustment Layer to “Shadows”.

23 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Step 10: Mid-tones

Repeat steps 3-8 to apply your desired color to the mid-tones. Only this time, when you get to step 5, you’ll need to select the “Midtones 1” luminosity mask.

25 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Note: When you load the “Midtones 1” luminosity mask as a selection, Photoshop will display a warning which states “No pixels are more than 50% selected. The selection edges will not be visible.”

24 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

You can safely ignore this warning. Your mid-tones will still be selected, this message is just Photoshop’s way of saying, “Woah there! You are making a selection so subtle that the marching ants can’t show you where it will apply.”

Step 11: Highlights

Finally, you can now introduce a color into your highlights.

26 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

To do this, you’ll need to repeat steps 3-8, modifying step 5 to select a “Light” luminosity mask. Often the “Lights 2” or “Lights 3” masks will create subtle results.

27 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here’s an example of the shadow, mid-tone, and highlight layers combining to split tone the image.

28 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Before and After

14 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here is the image prior to applying the split toned effect.

1 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Here is the image after applying a complementary split toned effect.

As you can see, the subtle toning helps to add a little emotion to the cityscape without losing the sense of depth of the original black and white image. And because the toning has been applied with luminosity masks and layers, you’re able to tweak and control the precise tone until it has a silky quality that makes you want to jump inside the image and roll around in its graduating tones.

Examples

Here are a few examples of different color schemes applied to the cityscape using the exact same process.

Warm Analogous Color Scheme

29 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Warm analogous color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

30 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

A Cool Analogous color scheme

31 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Cool analogous color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

32 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Triadic color scheme

33 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

A vibrant Triadic color palette created with the Adobe color wheel.

34 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

Conclusion

Whether you are looking for a way to add a little more emotion into your black and white photographs or simply trying to work out if you prefer an image in color or monochrome, you may find that split toning a black and white image can often give you the best of both worlds.

35 How to split tone black and white images using luminosity masks

And besides, in a world full of heavy saturation, smartphone filters, and HDR, it can be refreshing to strip away excess color and produce a sumptuous split toned black and white photograph.

I hope this encourages you to play with the color wheel and experiment with split toning effects. If you decide to give it a try, I’d be delighted to see your photographs in the comments below.

The post How to Create Silky Split Toned Black and White Photos Using Luminosity Masks by William Palfrey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos

17 Mar

I love photographs of foggy scenes. It can be a view of a busy street, a sprawling city skyline or a secluded mountain valley. Mist and fog are transformative and can give a well-known location a completely different feeling, filled with mystery and depth.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos

There are so many things you can do with your foggy images to give them the kind of mood and feel you want.

In this article, I’m going to choose an image that features fog and edit it a few different ways. I’ll show you a few simple factors that you can put to use to help you learn to completely control the mood of your misty and foggy images.

The Photo

This is the photograph that was kind enough to lend itself to be a guinea pig for our little experiments.

foggy image of a tree - How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos

It’s an image I made early one morning in the mountains of Virginia and of course, it is a RAW file…for now. Below we’re going to look at how some easy changes can literally transform this photo.

Contrast

We all know about contrast to some extent. At its core, contrast is simply the difference between light and dark in an image. When there’s a big difference and the lights are bright and the shadows are dark the photo is said to be high contrast. The opposite is true with low contrast photos where there is a very little gradient between the lights and darks.

The reason I’m refreshing you with a little Photography 101 is that fog inherently makes most images low contrast. You can choose to further reduce the contrast or bump things up as I’ve done in our first example.

Here’s our test photo with a large amount of increased contrast (using the Contrast and Blacks sliders) applied.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - higher contrast tree image

A relatively large amount of contrast in a misty scene instantly changes the tone of the photo by adding a sense of brooding. The light areas become brighter and the shadows deepen. High contrast images, in general, have more impact but that’s more of a preference than a rule.

Alternatively, you can choose to embrace the softness of foggy images and decrease the contrast even more. Now I’ve lessened the contrast using the Tone Curve to fade out the tree.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - lower contrast tree image

Low contrast can make your image extremely delicate which imparts an artsy, nearly abstract vibe. Oddly enough, low contrast foggy photos can be surprisingly workable in black and white as well.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - b/w tree

Color Temperature

Believe it or not, color temperature has one of the most perceivable impacts on photos of fog and mist. Perhaps even more so than anything the feel of the photograph and how it conveys mood is determined by the temperature of the color tones.

Now I’m going to take that high contrast version of the photo from the last example and change nothing but the color temperature. The version is nice and soothing cooled down. I adjusted the White Balance from 6150K to 4350K.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - cool image of a tree

Next, let’s warm the color temperature back up considerably from the base 6150K to 7350K

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - warmer image of a tree

See what a difference that makes? Misty and foggy images with a cooler color temperature are more ethereal and give the viewer a more ominous, darker experience. On the flip side of the temperature coin, warmer toned images are generally viewed as more upbeat and comforting.

It’s funny how changing the color temperature can have such a drastic effect on identical scenes.

Brightness

The overall all brightness of a photo is very subjective but when it comes to foggy photos there’s a very particular change you can make to your photo to take it from mundane to wow. “Wowdane” maybe? You know what I mean.

You accomplish this by making use of your old friend in Lightroom, the Graduated Filter. I’m going to use the cool toned image from the last example but the only change I’ll make is to add some increased exposure in the top portion of the photo.

How to Control Mood in Your Foggy Photos - darker

By brightening up the fog in the tree top the entire photo becomes more impactful and punchy. The fog seems to “glow” and becomes more like something out of the pages of a storybook.

Experiment with your photo by moving the Graduated Filter around to add directional lighting or even opting for the Radial Filter to localize the effect even more. I use a Graduated or Radial Filters (or both) in virtually all of my landscape and nature photos and it becomes especially useful in those which feature fog or mist.

Embracing the Haze

Some final thoughts on working with images of mist and fog include using the suggestions above, but I also encourage you to revisit the same image more than once while editing. Look for ways to change the mood and tone of the photo by changing the color temperatures. Don’t be afraid to go to extremes with contrast.

The great thing about working with these types of scenes is that they offer incredible creative opportunities for both you and the viewer.

The post Tips for How to Enhance the Mood in Your Foggy Photos by Adam Welch appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Google explains the tech behind the Pixel 2’s Motion Photos feature

15 Mar

Apple was the first mobile manufacturer to popularize still/video hybrid files with its Live Photos that were introduced on the iPhone 6s. Google then launched the Motion Stills app to improve and stabilize Apple’s Live Photos, and ported the system to the Android world soon after.

For the new Motion Photos feature on its latest Pixel 2 devices Google built on Motion Stills, improving the technology by using advanced stabilization that combines the devices’ soft and hardware capabilities. As before, Motion Photos captures a full-res JPEG with an embedded 3 second video clip every time you hit the shutter.

However, on the Pixel 2, the video clip also contains motion metadata that is derived from the gyroscope and optical image stabilization sensors.

This data is used to optimize trimming and stabilization of the motion photo and, combined with software based visual tracking, the new approach approach aligns the background more precisely than we’ve seen in the previous Motion Stills system (which was purely software-based). As before, the final results can be shared with friends or on the web as video files or GIFs.

If you are interested in more technical details of the Motion Photos feature, head over to the Google Research Blog. A gallery of Motion Photo files is available here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Broccoli Tree and the dangers of sharing photos of the places you love online

13 Mar

Landscape, wildlife, and adventure photographers (among others) will often keep their most treasured locations and subjects secret. And while this might seem rude or selfish or mean, the tale of The Broccoli Tree in Sweden—told beautifully in a recent vlogbrothers video by best-selling author John Green—explains exactly why this practice might also be necessary.

The Broccoli Tree, for those who aren’t familiar, is (or was) a tree in Huskvarna, Sweden that somehow became social media famous.

Photographing this tree became a passion project of photographer Patrik Svedberg, and over the course of 4+ years, the tree gained quite a following on Instagram. In fact, it kind of became Insta-famous so-to-speak, accruing over 31,000 followers to date.

But Insta-fame comes with consequences in this day and age. No matter how beautiful or inspiring, no matter how much joy something brings to the general populace, there will always be those people who get some deluded self-satisfaction out of destroying it.

This is what happened to The Broccoli Tree.

One day in September of 2017, Svedberg went to photograph his favorite tree, only to find that someone had sawed one of the tree’s branches almost all the way through. It wasn’t long before the whole tree had to be cut down.

Ever since the tree got viral a couple of years ago the number one joke has been ”what if someone cuts it down..?” Or ”What´s next, maybe you should cut it down and take photos haha.” I´ve never had good answer to that question, or joke. It´s not like we´re planted together, we live different lives the tree and I. This question was so common so I guess it was just a matter of time before some guys mentally retarded enough would crawl up from under a stone and make it happen as a part of a bet or something. Clearly it´s a obsession in lots of minds out there for some inscrutable reason. One of the trees branches has now (a couple of days ago..?) been sawn in almost all the way through and it´s just a matter of time before it´ll fall off. I won´t be around to document it, others will for sure so I guess you lunatics who did it can enjoy every moment. You can win a bet. Get cheered at. Even get a bit infamous. Congrats. What an accomplishment. I guess you were excited like little children while you did it, must have taken quite a while. For sure you are excited now, aspecially when the word is out. Now is your moment. High fives, maybe some back slapping. Suck it in. Time will erode those memories, excitement will turn into second thoughts. But the saddest thing of all, however You absolutely cannot un-saw a tree. —– I leave the judgement to others and have to move on to work, you can talk to each other about this below of course, but I feel for now this is what I have to say in this matter. Cheer up, there will be a tomorrow after this. // Patrik

A post shared by A tree on Instagram (@thebroccolitree) on

You can hear the entire story in the video at the top of this post, although you might be surprised to find that Green’s takeaway isn’t that people should keep these locations a secret, or not share photos of them at all. In fact, he comes to a totally different, if somewhat melancholy, conclusion:

The truth is, if we hoard and hide what we love, we can still lose it. Only then, we’re alone in the loss. You can’t un-saw a tree, but you can’t un-see one either. The Broccoli Tree is gone… but its beauty survives.

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A Quick Guide to Using Bounce Flash for More Natural-Looking Photos

09 Mar

Creating a portrait using flash is a whole lot more than just pointing your flash at your subject and taking the shot. Learning how to use flash creatively opens up a variety of new lighting options – which you can use to make the picture you envision in your head show up on your camera’s LCD screen. In this article, we’re going to look at using bounce flash.

Bounce flash is a handy trick you can use in a pinch to improve both the quality and amount of light in your finished picture using a flash unit right on top of your camera.

A photo taken using bounce flash to light the subject

The soft lighting for this image was created using a single flash, positioned on the camera and pointed directly up at the ceiling.

What is bounce flash?

Bounce flash is exactly what it sounds like. You aim the flash unit on your camera at a ceiling or nearby wall so that the light reflects off it and then back towards your subject.

This may seem like a really roundabout way of providing illumination, but there are a number of excellent reasons why you would want to bounce your flash, such as:

  • It quickly creates soft light.
  • It can be used to create directional light.
  • Helps you avoid the drawbacks of direct flash.

Let’s go through each of these points in more detail to get a better sense of how to use bounce flash to improve your photography.

Left: On-camera flash rotated to bounce off a wall to the side. Right: Built-in flash that cannot be rotated or bounced.

1. How does bounce flash create soft light?

One of the most important factors in determining how soft the light in your image will be is the apparent size of the light source. Notice I said “apparent size” – not “actual size”.

Your pop-up flash or attached speedlight are small light sources – so if you aim them directly at your subject you get harsh lighting. This is why photographers often use softboxes, umbrellas or other modifiers to create a larger source of light – which makes the light softer.

You can use this same concept to quickly create a larger apparent light source by bouncing your flash off a roof or wall and spreading out the light.

Direct flash is that which is aimed right at the subject.

Direct flash – not flattering to the subject and creates a harsh shadow on the wall behind.

Flash aimed at the ceiling to bounce the light and soften it.

Flash bounced off the ceiling – much more even and softer lighting.

2. How can bounce flash create directional light?

Understanding the direction from which the light is coming – and using that to your advantage – can have a huge impact on the quality of your photos.

Without flash, you’re at the mercy of whatever ambient lighting is available. When you are indoors in a dimly lit room, that ambient light is often rather unpleasant as the light usually comes from the ceiling overhead. This casts deep and dark shadows under people’s eyes – not at all a flattering look for a portrait.

By setting up near a wall, you can bounce your flash off it and effectively create a new light source that sweeps in from the side. Think of it as creating a new window to add more light to the scene. This new light will fill in those ugly shadows for a much more pleasing look.


The result of the flash being bounced off the wall to camera left is more directional light as seen here.

3. How does bounce flash improve on direct flash?

Sometimes a direct flash can significantly improve an image. Sometimes it results in redeye, awkward shadows, and a deer-in-headlights look.

Using bounce flash solves the red-eye problem since that is caused by light reflected directly back at the camera from the back of the eyeball. When your main light is bouncing in from overhead or from the side, you can also say goodbye to large shadows cast by your subject onto the background.

Lastly, direct flash creates boring lighting that flattens facial features and textures. Bounce flash results in more sculpted light that can be used to accentuate features and show depth.

Example of a photo taken using direct flash as the key light

This portrait was taken with direct flash, causing a harsh shadow on the back wall and a bad case of red-eye (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

Example of photo taken without using any flash, high ISO

Without using flash, I had to bump the ISO up to 6400 in order to keep the right exposure. The colors are dull and there is a lot of noise in the shot (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 6400)

Example of a photo taken with bounce flash

With bounce flash, the light on the model is soft and even. There is a glimmer of catch-light in the subject’s eyes and no shadow on the back wall. (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

What do you need to get started with bounce flash?

In order to shoot bounce flash, the bare minimum you will need is an external flash unit with a head that can swivel and tilt.

If you are planning on buying a new flash, make sure to research how it can be maneuvered. Some cheaper models will provide more flash power than your standard in-camera pop-up flash, but if they can’t be adjusted to tilt and swivel then you won’t be able to use them for bounce flash lighting.

Get a flash that can both rotate (swivel) and tilt (up and down) in order to do bounce flash.

Balancing the light

When shooting with flash in a bright room, you need to perform a balancing act in order to keep the light looking natural. This is the case with bounce flash as well.

A flash picture essentially has two exposures:

  1. The ambient, or available light, which is all the light from windows, light bulbs, candles, chandeliers, etc.
  2. The light from your flash.

As the photographer, you need to balance these two exposures to create the image you want. Fortunately, this doesn’t mean that you need to go around flicking light switches until you get the exact amount of brightness needed for each shot – your camera settings can control how much light will be in the final shot.

In this image, the flash is too strong and the exposure is not well-balanced with the ambient light in the room. Exposure here was: 1/125th, f/4, ISO 250, flash was ETTL with +2 Flash Exposure Compensation.

Aperture:

Opening up the aperture will allow more light in, effectively increasing the flash power and also making the camera pick up more of the ambient light

ISO:

Increasing your ISO means the sensor “collects” more light. Again, this effectively increases the power from your flash as well as the influence of the ambient light.

Shutter Speed:

Here’s where a lot of control comes in. As long as you stay within your camera’s maximum sync-speed, your flash will influence the final shot regardless of the shutter speed. On the other hand, a long shutter speed will collect a lot of ambient light, and a short shutter speed will collect less, often drastically affecting the final image.

It may take some time to get used to this balancing act with aperture, ISO, and shutter speed so that your bounce flash shots give you well-lit subjects with natural-looking lighting.

The inside of a car, lit by bounce flash

Firing a flash into the roof of the car creates soft, bounced light that really makes all the surface details shine.

Other details to keep in mind

Flash Power

Since the light from your flash has to travel the extra distance to bounce off a wall or ceiling before reaching the subject, you can’t use your camera’s ETTL metering as is to determine the amount of power needed. Your camera assumes that you are using direct flash, so if you don’t make any adjustments, the flash power will always be a bit too low.

Increase your camera’s flash exposure compensation depending on the distance to the surface you are using to bounce the light. For a typical ceiling in a home, this might be an adjustment of +1/3 or +2/3. If you are photographing in a hall with high ceilings, you may need to boost your flash by +1 or even more.

A young man photographed using bounce flash

A seamless background and soft light from bouncing the flash off a slanted ceiling gives this picture the type of quality you might expect from multiple flashes and a studio setup.

Color

Important question: What color is going to be reflected back at you if you shoot a flash into a pink wall?

Yup, you guessed it – it’s gonna be pink. The light from your flash is going to take on whatever color it bounces off. So unless you’re going for that funky, unnatural pink look, you’ll want to make sure you bounce your flash off neutral-color surfaces like whites, grays or blacks. (Alternatively, you can shoot or convert to black and white.)

Don’t blind people!

As you start to discover how fun it is to swivel your flash around and create dramatic and interesting light, it can be easy to forget where your flash is pointed. If an unfortunate passerby steps between the wall and your flash just as you fire off a shot, they might get an unwelcome blast of light. It’s a good idea to check and make sure the coast is clear before snapping each shot.

Give it a shot!

Bounce flash is a handy trick in your arsenal to help you land that perfect shot when the situation allows for it. So tilt your flash up and give it a try!

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How to Shoot and Process Better Waterfall Photos

05 Mar

Everybody loves a good waterfall image with a long exposure, but in this article, I’ll show you how to capture more detail and motion in that fascinating tumble of whitewater. Water is the most powerful force of nature on our planet and there’s a simple technique you can use when photographing waterfalls that more effectively harnesses the fury and chaos of mother nature.

Tip 1 – Use a faster shutter speed

How to Shoot Better Waterfall Images - Comparison

While many photographers would consider 1/3″ (one-third of a second) a slow shutter speed, it’s typically a lot faster than many would use for shooting waterfalls. I’ll sometimes even use 1/6″ (like in the left image above) depending on the volume of water in my composition.

Shooting waterfalls using a 1/6″ to 1/3″ shutter speed captures far more detail and texture in the moving water. It’s still long enough to create motion blur but fast enough to capture the motion of individual water droplets as they blast through your scene.

I feel that these faster shutter speeds tell the story much better than a totally silky smooth white out because the added detail shows the true power of water as it carves through the landscape.

Tip 2 – Use a wider (faster) aperture if required

As a landscape photographer, I usually prefer to stop down to apertures like f/11 or even f/16 so that I can capture the maximum depth of field and sharpness. This is the ideal scenario if you’ve got enough light to work with, but what if there isn’t much available light and using faster shutter speeds just ends up giving you an image that’s way too dark?

There are two things you can do to deal with this problem. Firstly, I’ll open up the aperture to let more light into the camera. For the above images, I was shooting with the Zeiss Batis 18mm and was able to open up to f/2.8. This often gets me closer to the 1/6″ shutter speed while capturing an image that is still bright enough, even in low light conditions.

Tip 3 – Increase ISO as a last resort

Increase ISO as a last resort - waterfall tips

When it starts to get dark I can increase my ISO which makes my sensor much more sensitive to light and enables me to get away with faster shutter speeds in low light situations. Bumping up the ISO is the last resort as it introduces noise and degrades image quality drastically.

Tip 4 – Shoot an overexposed frame at f/11 with a low ISO

Overexposed waterfall photography

This overexposed shot captures bright shadow detail in the mossy rocks. I don’t care about the blown out white water. I’ll be erasing that later in processing.

My first three steps explain how I capture all of that lovely motion and detail by using faster shutter speeds. But I’ll also capture a super bright image with maximum depth of field at low ISO which I can use for the rest of the scene. This gives me great image quality for everything in the frame that doesn’t include white water.

I usually stop down my aperture to around f/11 (I used f/8 because my lens performs well at that aperture.) Then I watch my Live View display while increasing the shutter speed and overexposing the image until I can clearly see all of the shadow detail on my display. For this to work, I must have Exposure Simulation enabled on my camera (check the settings for yours).

When you try this you may find that the water is a completely blown out mass of pure white. That’s okay because you’ll be using the water from your darker, faster exposures when you blend these images together.

All we care about with this shot is capturing an image that clearly shows the surrounding area. In my shot, it’s the mossy rocks and cliffs around the waterfall that are the priority.

Putting it all together

There are a few options for blending multiple exposure images like this:

  1. HDR – Fastest, easiest but less realistic and not the best image quality.
  2. Luminosity Masks in Photoshop – Steeper learning curve but often results in the best image quality. Read more on that topic here.
  3. Manual Blending in Photoshop – Easier than learning Luminosity Masks and almost the same image quality.

Photoshop users have more options here and I’m going to assume that if you already know how to use Luminosity Masks you probably don’t need me to show you how to blend these exposures. With that in mind, I’m going to show you an easy way to blend these exposures very simply in Photoshop. Lightroom users might prefer to use the built-in HDR tool of Lightroom to blend exposures.

Waterfall Image Processing

Shooting an Over Exposed Waterfall Image for Shadow Detail

First of all, let’s look at the RAW files and talk about the camera settings I decided to use. This first exposure was shot with an aperture of f/8 for great depth of field and sharpness. I used a long exposure time of 13″ so this is obviously the overexposed frame I talked about earlier.

My next frame was shot at 2.5″ which was the shutter speed recommended by my camera’s light meter. Even though the light meter was telling me that 2.5″ was ideal, it’s still not fast enough for me to capture water detail because as you can see below, the water is just a mushy white blur. So I decided to shoot a couple faster frames even though I knew they’d be underexposed.

How to Shoot Better Waterfalls - Still too long of an exposure

ISO 50, f/8, 2.5 seconds. The exposure was still too long to capture detail.

The next frame was shot at 1/4″ which I achieved by opening the aperture to f/2.8. I would have much preferred to have stayed at f/8, but it was getting dark and I needed as much light as I could get. Even though it’s clearly underexposed and quite dark you can see it captured much more detail in the water.

Finally, for the next frame, I went for an even faster shutter speed of 1/6″ and this is the one I’ll use to blend with the first overexposed frame.

The ideal amount of motion blur for waterfall photography

1/6th of a second was the magic number to get detail in the water.

Step 1 – Process the overexposed image

Even though the water in this image is completely smoothed out, all I really want from here is everything BUT the water. I might choose to keep a few parts of the silky water movement but for the thicker sections of water, I’ll be getting rid of that mushy white stuff.

Processing Overexposed Waterfall Image in ACR

I’ll open this in Adobe Camera RAW and bring down the exposure slightly, brighten shadows by +18 and then brighten the blacks to +8. I’ll also punch the color vibrancy up to +8 and then hit Open Image to bring it into Photoshop.

Step 2 – Process the underexposed image

Processing of Underexposed Waterfall Image

The first thing I need to do here is to increase the exposure to +1.50. This brightens the image up but also kills some of the detail in the brighter sections of the white water. I’ll fix that by pulling the highlights down to -27 and the whites down to -17 then hit Open Image to bring it into Photoshop.

Step 3 – Stack and align the layers

I can easily stack the overexposed image on top of the darker one by clicking in the layers panel and simply dragging it to the tab for the underexposed image. Photoshop will drop a copy of that layer on top of the original.

Align the layers just in case there was any camera movement between shots by making sure both layers are unlocked. Hold down shift and click on each layer so that both layers are selected. Then go to Edit > Auto-Align Layers. I go with the default Auto and hit OK. In this case, nothing happened because there was no misalignment.

Step 4 – Selectively erase the overexposed water

The Photoshop Eraser Tool

This is the fun part where a bit of skill and judgment comes in handy. With practice, you’ll get better at choosing which parts to erase on your own waterfall images. My goal here is to get rid of any boring bits of overly silky water to reveal the more interesting motion blur of the layer underneath. Take your time and use a bigger brush than you think you might need. If you use a brush that’s too small you’ll be able to see the halo edges of your brushwork.

You don’t have to erase ALL of the white water, just the parts you find lacking in action and drama. Some areas may look better from the overexposed shot and others may look better from the underexposed shot. Finding the perfect balance is down to your artistic judgment.

Try switching the top layer on and off by clicking the eye icon next to the layer. This helps you to see if the changes you’ve made work towards creating a better image.

You can also change the opacity of the eraser brush so that the effect is less intense. For the top part of the falls, I’ll use an opacity of 50% so the effect is more subtle. If you prefer non-destructive editing and are already familiar with Layer Masks you could perform the exact same process. I just prefer the fast simplicity of this method and wanted to show you the easiest way to get a quick and effective result.

Step 5 – Fine-tuning the blending

To make the two layers blend more seamlessly I’m going to make the overexposed layer slightly darker. I choose Image> Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast and set the brightness to about -38. I can also brighten up the darker exposure slightly so that it gets closer to the brightness of the overexposed layer by going to Image > Adjustments > Shadows/Highlights and setting the Shadow Amount to 3%.

Shadows / Highlights - processing waterfall images

This result is a nice, flat looking image that has a great dynamic range with lots of texture, detail, and motion in the water. From this point, you can do whatever you like to the image, such as add contrast, play with colors, or dodge and burn – whatever it is you like to do with your nature images normally.

The benefit of using this method is that your water motion will be much more interesting and engaging to your viewers than just a silky smooth white out.

If you prefer, you can watch the whole thing on video, see below:

Final thoughts

How to Take Better Waterfall Photos

I just want to state that all of this is subjective. If you prefer waterfall photos that contain little to no detail in the motion of the water, good for you. By using the techniques I’ve outlined in this article you can get the best of both worlds and decide which combination of options works best for your image in post-production.

It’s always better to have more than you need than to regret not taking a variety of shots. I encourage you to play with different shutter speeds to decide which look is best for you. I hope this helps to improve your waterfall photography and please feel free to post any questions in the comments section below.

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