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Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

Photography Hot Spots – Love ‘em or Hate ‘em?

16 Nov

I hear much maligning the days about photography hot spots. You know them, they are the places photographers seem to flock to: Mesa Arch, Tunnel View, Horseshoe Bend, Kjeragbolten (that rock wedged between two other rocks in Norway), etc… The list goes on an on and they tend to be natural wonders. Although, cityscapes are certainly included (e.g. New York’s Manhattanhenge).

Photography Hot Spots - Delicate Arch

But do those photography hot spots deserve their increasingly bad reputation? I asked some fellow photographers to give their perspective on the love and hate of shooting at photographic hot spots.

On The Side Of Love

The Sheer Beauty

Let’s face it; these places are popular for a reason. They are gorgeous! Maybe not when there is a crowd (even the Mona Lisa is hard to enjoy from four rows back in a packed crowd), but there is a reason these locations draw people, with or without cameras.

For instance, we see a picture of symmetry and grandeur of the Taj Mahal and we are drawn in.

Photography Hot Spots - Taj Mahal

And all those photography hot spots in National Parks around the world? Those parks were set up to protect and preserve the often astonishing and sublime beauty we humans are lucky enough to share with this world.

Photography Hot Spots - Machu Picchu

Good Practice And A Chance To Learn

The hard part of photography can be finding subjects. For outdoor and landscape photographers, in particular, more effort is put into researching, getting to and finding the right location than actually shooting.

Hot spots make the learning more readily accessible when the pain is taken out of the hunting process. These days almost any hotspot can be found online with direction or precise coordinates on a map. It is a chance to get out and shoot more and an opportunity to learn from other photographers at the hot spot.

Photography Hot Spots - Seattle

Camaraderie And Socializing

Photographer Eileen Descallar Ringwald explains what she enjoys about the social aspect of hot spots.

While I value getting away from crowds, I do see advantages to be had when in groups. Once in Yosemite on a climbing-focused trip, a photographer I met by chance in the El Cap picnic area told me the elusive moonbow conditions were going to occur that night. I went out at night to the Lower Yosemite Falls Bridge and was at first shocked to see just how many photographers and even non-photographers were there. However, everyone was very polite. People made way for tripods and shared long exposure settings throughout the night. One photographer even shared where he normally went to shoot the Upper Falls. I had a fun time and got some decent shots as well. This was an experience I would have missed if I hadn’t decided to ‘follow the crowd’.

When you get in with the right group, the benefits can multiply. It can lead you in directions you would not have discovered on your own.

Photography Hot Spots - Socializing

Gateway Drug To Other Offerings In The Area

Landscape photographer and instructor Gary Crabbe spends a lot of his time outdoors with this camera. He has used photography hot spots as a means to an end.

The lure of great iconic photo locations should not be ignored or dismissed on the pathway to developing our own personal vision. I always recommend that once you’ve nailed a certain shot, dare to explore further afield or venture off the regularly traveled path. This will allow you to seek out more unique or personal compositions. Regardless of what primary area my travels take me, I always like to find one or two nearby lesser-known locations that fuel a bit more of the journey with an eye toward photographic discovery and adventure.

Photography Hot Spots - Mesa Arch, Utah

I shot Mesa Arch at sunrise (pictured above) because it makes for a beautiful image. I visited the park with my friend Michael Riffle. As we were spending three days in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, he suggested a location nearby that I hadn’t previously explored.

It was Dead Horse Point State Park and at sunrise in October, it looked like this:

Photography Hot Spots - Dead Horse Point

While Mesa Arch and the ‘Big 5’ National Parks of Utah are a big draw, there are so many other unique and interesting sites to explore. While I wouldn’t have planned a trip to Dead Horse Point if I were alone, it, and many other sites, are valuable add-ons made possible by first hitting the Gateway Hot Spots.

It’s Never The Same Place Twice

Sure, you’ve seen the photos and you might have even been to that photography hot spot. But times and weather change. Different light means a different mode. Fewer people, more people. A chance encounter with wildlife.

It all makes hot spots different for everyone on each occasion. They are an easy way to grow as a photographer because they teach us not to be complacent and accept that, “Well, I shot that already. It never changes.”

For instance, another day at the Taj Mahal can bring a new feeling. Maybe the shot works better with people? Maybe the light isn’t as crisp? Take the opportunity to learn from them.

Photography Hot Spots - Taj Mahal

On The Side Of Hate

Crowds

Photographer and tour operator, Genevieve Hathaway, knows a thing or two about crowds.

Crowds at locations can provide challenges for photographers. Especially iconic travel locations can be very crowded making clean compositions tough, making it hard to find spots to shoot. It’s also hard to try and capture more authentic, idyllic scenes. It’s great that so many people are traveling, but this provides photographers with new challenges in composing our shots and even in competing with other photographers for the coveted angles. I think these challenges can push us to be creative. They are opportunities to find new angles at favorite sites, wake up early to beat the crowds and to even discover more off the beaten path locations to shoot.

Photography Hot Spots - Crowds

Rude Photographers More Interested In Getting ‘The Shot’ Rather Than Ethical Or Polite Behavior

We’ve all met them: rude photographers. They seem to care only about themselves and getting ‘the shot.’ I asked Canadian photographer Michael Russell for his take.

I have to wonder if the photographers who yell and scream, push people out of the way, damage plant life and infrastructure, or otherwise act to disrupt others, have any understanding as to why a great view at an iconic location is special? Even when the light isn’t great or there are too many tourists on the trail in front of their camera; do they feel anything? A photographer who acts out because something went wrong while hunting for a preconceived trophy is at best missing the gift of visiting these places. At worst, ruining the visit for everyone else who does.

Photography Hot Spots - Rude Photographers

Uninspired Execution

Pam Boling, a talented, multi-faceted photographer from Las Vegas, sees a lack of effort and originality as a common outcome.

I am most inspired when I am shooting portraits or landscapes. My most lucrative client, however, is the commercial client. Commercial content rarely inspires me. Getting the exposure right in commercial environments can sometimes be the most challenging: I am often faced with window light, fluorescent lights, OCF, harsh backlight, and sometimes reflective surfaces. I think the photographic process – whatever the subject – eventually becomes the driving force once the toolbox is worn around the edges. Some photographers don’t go beyond the normal tools and the results are uninspired.

Photography Hot Spots - uninspired

False Impression That Photographers Are Great When Copying

Freelance writer and photographer Peter Tellone put it most succinctly when it comes to copying others.

Copying greatness does not make you a Chef, it makes you a Cook. The entire point in this madness that is art is to be the Chef.

If you don’t expand your vision, if you don’t break out of the mold of others, you are nothing more than a fancy copy machine.

These hot spots make it easy to take a great photo because the scene, in and of itself, is already amazing. You just need some decent light to get a decent photo. To be great you need to build, expand and reinterpret what others have done, and what the scene gives you.

Photography Hot Spots - No so great

Conclusion

I have tried presenting both sides to the controversy of iconic photography hot spots. Honestly, I can see both sides of the story. Some positive aspects and some negative.

What do you think? Do you love or hate photography hot spots?

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Google’s Night Sight allows for photography in near darkness

15 Nov

Google’s latest Pixel 3 smartphone generation comes with the company’s new Night Sight feature that allows for the capture of well-exposed and clean images in near darkness, without using a tripod or flash. Today Google published a post on its Research Blog, explaining in detail thecomputational photography and machine learning techniques used by the feature and describing the challenges the development team had to overcome in order to capture the desired image results.

Night Sight builds on Google’s multi-frame-merging HDR+ mode that was first introduced in 2014, but takes things a few steps further, merging a larger number of frames and aiming to improve image quality in extremely low light levels between 3 lux and 0.3 lux.

One key difference between HDR+ and Night Sight are longer exposure times for individual frames, allowing for lower noise levels. HDR+ uses short exposures to provide a minimum frame rate in the viewfinder image and instant image capture using zero-shutter-lag technology. Night Sight waits until after you press the shutter button before capturing images which means users need to hold still for a short time after pressing the shutter but achieve much cleaner images.

The longer per-frame exposure times could also result in motion blur caused by handshake or to moving objects in the scene. This problem is solved by measuring motion in a scene and setting an exposure time that minimizes blur. Exposure times also vary based on a number of other factors, including whether the camera features OIS and the device motion detected by the gyroscope.

In addition to per-frame exposure, Night Sight also varies the number of frames that are captured and merged, 6 if the phone is on a tripod and up to 15 if it is handheld.

Frame alignment and merging are additional challenges that you can read all about in detail on the Google Research Blog. Our science editor Rishi Sanyal also had a closer look at Night Sight and the Pixel 3’s other computational imaging features in this article.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography

14 Nov

It’s now estimated that of the 12 million households in the UK, 44% have pets. This equates to approximately 51 million pets owned. Of those, 9 million are dogs and 8 million are cats. With dogs and cats recognized as legitimate members of our families, just like our children, it’s no wonder we want to share them with the world. Pictorially speaking.

4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography 1

Cavachon, Dorset © Andrew Sproule

Adult dog owners post a picture or talk about their dog on social media on average six times per week. They also watch dog videos or check out dog pictures about three times a week — and, one in ten has a social media account exclusively for their beloved woofer. It’s a similar picture (pardon the pun) in many countries around the world.

The perpetual advancements in smartphone camera technology allow us to be able to snap and share good quality pics of our very special soul mates, anytime and virtually anywhere.

Despite the ever-ready benefit of having a camera at hand (or should that be ‘in hand’), the demand for superior quality, longer lasting, tangible keepsakes such as albums or wall art has never been higher.

As a working dog photographer, I am inundated with questions pertaining to all aspects of pet photography as you can imagine. And I love to help where I can. The questions that I’m asked most often relate to lenses:

‘What is the Best Lens for Pet Photography?’

Now, this is a somewhat loaded question. However, the answer really depends on you. What you’re trying to achieve, your style, your budget, whether you’re a hobbyist or professional, a generalist or targeting one type of pet etc. If your chosen system is Nikon, Sony or another, that’s absolutely fine. Rather than focus on the brand, this article outlines how particular lenses can be used to create different effects in certain situations.

90% of my work is focused on dogs, predominantly in outdoor on-location situations. I use two Canon full-frame camera bodies, which has inevitably influenced my choice of lenses.

I would love to be able to provide you with a catchall solution to this question. Nevertheless, it’s only right that I concentrate on providing you with details about what works for me. I trust that you’re able to take away information that you find helpful and constructive, and that you can use in your own unique situations.

4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography 2

Springer Spaniel Sussex © Andrew Sproule

So, here’s an overview of what I tend to use on most of my dog photography sessions. As a heads-up, I’ve avoided the technicalities of each lens and instead focused on how these lenses can be used creatively.

Clients hire me based on my style and my approach to dog photography. That works for me because I’ve always liked to get up close and personal. I often get at or below the dog’s level to afford me a dog’s eye view of the world.

Now, I have a certain style, but when it comes to a commissioned shoot, my focus and my duty are to offer my clients a gallery of images jam-packed with diversity. One sure-fire way to achieve this is through the use of several different lenses. In this post, I’m going to concentrate on the four that I tend to use the most.

Zoom Lens: 70-200mm f2.8

I like to ease myself into most photo sessions to ensure the client’s dog is relaxed right from the offset. I tend to stand back a bit (or lay down in most cases!) and start with the 70-200mm f2.8. This zoom lens (although quite heavy for its size – over 3lbs) is a real workhorse. It has a very handy focal range, outstanding autofocus, and excellent image quality. Because I always work hand-held (often in varying light conditions), its 3-stop image stabilization (IS) is a godsend.

However, if I need a bit more focal length I will pair the 70-200mm with a 1.4x extender. There is the inevitable small drop in image quality, which can be more noticeable in older versions of the extender. However, if it’s this versus no shot at all, then it’s a no-brainer.

The 70-200mm f2.8 is an extremely versatile lens that allows you to capture a variety of shots from playtime, scenic, group, portrait and so much more. It’s a lens that is always with me on my photo shoots.

4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography 3

Labradoodle, Kent © Andrew Sproule

Prime Lens: 85mm f1.2

For situations that call for stunning background blur, I reach for my 85mm f1.2 (non-IS). I absolutely love this prime lens for its light gathering properties and superb image quality. Again, for its size, it’s heavy. That is to be expected though as there’s an awful lot of glass in there. In fact, there’s so much heavy glass that it affects the autofocus speed.

Therefore, I use this lens primarily when I know I’m going to have subjects that can remain fairly still, even if it’s just for a few seconds. I hardly ever shoot at f1.2 either. The plane of focus is so narrow that you can often see a difference in sharpness between a dog’s eyes. A dog that is facing me! It’s that narrow. I find f2-f4 is the sweet range.

Zoom Lens: 24-70mm f2.8

If I were only allowed to use one lens on a dog photography session it would be the 24-70mm f2.8. This lens, which offers my most-used range of focal lengths, is often described as ‘the best performing Canon full-frame compatible general purpose zoom lens available.’ And breathe!

And, I have to agree.

The 24-70mm is super sharp, super fast and super accurate, so I can forgive Canon for this lens’s lack of image stabilization. They (Canon) sacrificed IS to ensure this lens would retain ultimate image quality and I can live with that.

The amount of flexibility and control the 24-70mm lens affords me means that, on average, over 65% of the images I present at my clients’ viewing appointments have been taken with this lens.

4 of the Best Lenses for Creative Dog Photography 4

Pug, London © Andrew Sproule

Wide-Angle Zoom Lens: 16-35mm f4

Finally, the lens I most like using is the 16-35mm f4. It’s an extremely sharp ultra-wide angle zoom that’s full-frame compatible. It is incredibly fast and quiet, extremely accurate and the image quality is excellent. This is the lens that allows me to truly have some fun with my subjects. If I’m working with a dog that’s unfazed by having a lens unusually close to them, then I can truly come away with some magical and whimsical portraits.

As you’ve read, it’s horses-for-courses. In my case, it has taken quite a few years to get to this point. The crucial take-out is that you need to discover for yourself what works for you. The best advice I was given was to get out there and shoot. The more dogs I photographed the more I was able to hone in on what lenses worked for me.

So, don’t be afraid to invest in pro-quality lenses, especially if you’re a working professional. You owe it to your clients to be using pro-level gear. And, these lenses really hold their value. They can be resold or part-exchanged if they don’t quite work out for you. If it’s a toss-up between several lenses, consider hiring first. It’s an effective way to help you narrow down the many choices available.

Good luck out there!

What lenses do you use for dog photography? Share with us your experiences in the comments below.

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Wedding Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out

12 Nov

What’s in your bag?

dps-equipment-wedding-photography

Weddings are vibrant and full of emotions, making it all too easy to have a purely romantic view of the day. For the couple and guests, that is very true. However, if you are a supplier on the day, it can be a very different experience. All the more if you are the wedding photographer! The pressure is on, and you have a huge responsibility to capture the day.

When you first begin photographing weddings, it is important to have a love for weddings and a connection to the occasion. If you hate weddings – which some people do – I suggest you steer clear of wedding photography. It is also beneficial to have a creative eye. If you lack both, it will be apparent on the images you capture.

When starting as a wedding photographer, it is quite understandable that you may not have the full arsenal of cameras, lenses, flashes, etc. Often we start with only the basic equipment in our bag and plenty of creativity (and for some, a healthy dose of confidence).

If you are considering being a wedding photographer and exploring what you can achieve with a basic kit, then this article is for you. These are also just my suggestions. I do not assume that you could not become a competent wedding photographer otherwise.

dps-equipment-wedding-photography

1. Camera

A full-frame professional camera is ideal, but if you only have a crop-sensor camera, there’s no reason you can’t shoot a wedding. The main impact of this would be the lenses. Unless it is a dedicated crop-sensor lens, a crop-sensor only uses a section of the lens, causing some loss in light and sensor use.

Newer cameras are equipped with better technology to handle noise, especially in low-light conditions. This technology is crucial because regardless of season, weddings will always involve low-light. Often very little natural light. The pixel size of images from newer cameras is also generally larger allowing more room for adjustments like cropping. It also allows better enlargements of your photographs in print. 24MP is now average for a newer camera whereas it was around 12MP 10-years ago.

2. Lenses

I feel lenses are a must. If you want to shoot weddings, at least have the 50mm or 35mm prime lens. They open to larger apertures than the kit lenses (the ones that come with the camera body). A maximum aperture of f/1.8 will do, but even better is f/1.4 and f/1.2. However, these lenses can be pricey though. If you tend not to use a flash unit, the advantage of these lenses is made clear.

A zoom lens is a massive help when capturing unfolding events during a wedding day. You don’t have to zoom with your feet as you do with a prime lens. In my opinion, you can get away with using a zoom kit lens for candid captures and don’t have to shell out for a pricey f/2.8 zoom when starting out. I must also add that these f/2.8 zooms are amazing pieces of glass and are worth the investment if you can afford it.

Top tip: Use a hood or a UV filter on your lens to protect it from knocks and breakage. Some people say filters affect the sharpness. That may be so, but I’d rather have an intact lens and a 99% sharp photo than a broken lens and a 100% sharp photo. The difference is pixel-peeping minuscule.

3. Flash Gun

Many people call themselves a natural light photographer. There is nothing wrong with that. However, if you want to shoot weddings, I encourage you to be open-minded and explore the possibility of learning to use flash. Weddings, especially evening receptions can be notoriously dark and having a flash gun will serve you well.

Top tip: Use a diffuser or bounce card.

dps-equipment-wedding-photography

4. Memory Cards, Spare Batteries, Remote Triggers or Transceivers (If You Use Off-Camera Flash)

These are self-explanatory. Have spares and spares of spares!

5. Backup Equipment

If you have to borrow extra equipment for back-up, do so. You never know when something will unexpectedly pack-up! When I shot my first wedding, I owned one camera body (a crop-sensor), and I borrowed my sister-in-law’s camera, just in case. I didn’t use it but having it with me gave me peace of mind.

dps-equipment-wedding-photography

6. Other Helpful Equipment But Non-Essentials

The following can come in handy but in my opinion, you can do without them:

Grey card – You shoot at a fast pace in various lighting scenarios during a wedding – indoors, outdoors, tungsten, LED, natural lights, etc. It would be crazy to use a grey card every time you moved! You can shoot in Kelvin or use Auto White Balance. The important thing is that you shoot in Raw so you can adjust the white balance in post.

Reflector – I used to carry a reflector when I first started, but now I take my flash guns instead. And I never go without at least two of them! But a reflector is handy. Because I don’t carry one with me most of the time now, when I shoot small details, I use a small piece of white card or anything white that may be handy.

Tripod – I never carry a tripod as I find it too cumbersome and heavy! But you’d never see me cover a wedding without a monopod. They are easier to lug around!

7. Non-Essentials That Add Value to Your Service

Brides are often grateful when you magically produce things that they did not expect you to have. For instance, bobby pins, hair grips, scissors, or tissues. Likewise, if you help in other ways when you can, for example, putting the buttonholes on, helping with jewelry, etc. As they say, it’s in the little things.

dps-equipment-wedding-photography

Lastly, invest in a good, well-padded camera bag. Your equipment will love being in it!

You can read more about lenses for wedding photography in an more exhaustive article I have written here.

I hope you found this article helpful and I wish you the best in your journey as a wedding photographer! Do share your thoughts or any equipment you may want to add in the comments below!

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DPReview TV: Time-lapse photography

10 Nov

Digital cameras have made it incredibly easy to do time-lapse photography, thanks to the ability to take hundreds—or even thousands—of photos without interruption. However, creating a time-lapse sequence that achieves your artistic intent may require a bit of planning or even some camera accessories. This week, Chris and Jordan walk us through the process of planning and shooting compelling time-lapse videos.

Also, make sure to read our article Behind the scenes: Shooting a motion time-lapse in the Canadian wilderness.

Get new episodes of DPReview TV every week by subscribing to our YouTube channel!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Challenge – Industrial Photography

10 Nov

This week’s photography topic for our weekly challenge is INDUSTRIAL photography!

Weekly Challenge - Industrial by Caz Nowaczyk

View of Steelworks and Port from Christy Drive in Port Kembla NSW Australia by Caz Nowaczyk.

Industrial is quite a broad topic and can consist of industrial landscapes through to close-ups of industrial equipment, textures or their environmental impact.

Think industrial buildings, rusting old silos and equipment, metal industrial pipes, smokestacks, and manufacturing spaces.

Weekly Challenge - Industrial by Caz Nowaczyk 2

Views across the Illawarra from Mt Keira including steel industry by Caz Nowaczyk.

 

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on finding and shooting industrial pictures.

How to Photograph Industrial Deserts

Working with Textures – 8 Ideas to Get You Started

 

Photography Weekly Challenge – Industrial

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSINDUSTRIAL to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Weekly Challenge - Industrial by Caz Nowaczyk 3

Steelworks in Port Kembla, NSW Australia at night by Caz Nowaczyk.

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7Artisans shows off new 35mm F/5.6 FE lens designed specifically for drone photography

09 Nov

Chinese lens manufacturer 7Artisans has introduced a new 35mm F5.6 FE lens designed specifically for drone photography.

The unusual-looking lens features an FE mount for full-frame Sony cameras and weighs just 49 grams. Its optical construction is specifically designed to reduce perspective distortion and minimize any vignetting around the edge of the image frame.

7Artisans also notes that the lens can be locked to infinity focus by using three screws to lock the lens into place. The below image is the only sample image 7Artisans has supplied.

7Artisan lenses can be purchased through B&H, but the 35mm F5.6 FE lens isn’t yet posted on B&H and 7Artisans doesn’t mention pricing or availability on its website (translated). We have contacted 7Artisans regarding these details and will update accordingly when and if we hear back.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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What I Learned From 30 Days of Black and White Photography

08 Nov

Color is an amazing phenomenon.

Most of us can appreciate color, even if we don’t understand the complex nature of light. Color Illuminates the landscape of our daily lives, and naming them is one of the first things we learn in childhood. We use them as a language and a way of expressing emotion. They affect both our brain and our bodies and fill our world with variation and even the occasional surprise.

So why would I ditch color for black and white for an entire month?

Up until the mid-1930s, color photography wasn’t widely accessible. And color printing wasn’t an affordable option until the 1960s. Pioneer photographers such as Ansel Adams and Henri Cartier Bresson set the standard in black and white photography. They emphasized composition and the controlled use of light without color, revealing the artistic merits of black and white photography that resonate to this day.

As a photographer, I shoot predominantly in color. But with such a wealth of modern photographic history steeped in black and white photography, I thought it would be interesting to prioritize monochrome instead.

So, I set myself a challenge: to photograph in black and white with my digital rig at least once a day for a month.

Here’s how it went.

Getting Started

Setting the Camera to Monochrome Mode

Okay, first things first. I wanted to shoot black and white images in-camera, so I needed to put my camera in Monochrome mode. In this mode, the camera records photos in black and white when photographing in JPEG. The LCD also previews photographs in black and white in Live View and the gallery.

While shooting in this mode does encourage a bit of ‘chimping’ (checking the photo after every shot), being able to review your pictures in black and white is very useful. It helps your eyes adjust to seeing your surroundings in black and white.

I’m using a Canon 5D MKII, so in ‘Shutter Priority’ mode (‘Aperture Priority’ and ‘Manual’ work too, depending on your preference) I selected the ‘Picture Styles’ tab on the main menu.

I then selected the ‘Monochrome’ (or M) option from the ‘Picture Styles’ menu.

Pressing the ‘Info’ button with ‘M’ selected in the ‘Picture Style’ screen allows further adjustments to ‘Monochrome’ mode such as ‘Sharpness,’ ‘Contrast,’ ‘Filters,’ and ‘Toning.’ I increased the Contrast parameters a tad, as using the Monochrome Mode by itself can make the images seem a little flat.

For Nikon or other camera brands, check the manual to find out how to set your camera to Monochrome mode.

Changing Your Quality Settings

The next step was to set my camera to photograph in dual RAW and JPEG modes. Why? Because even in Monochrome mode a RAW file will revert to color when uploaded to the computer. Whereas, a JPEG file retains the monochromatic scheme used in-camera.

Unfortunately, a JPEG retains less quality than a RAW file. So what do we do? We shoot both! If you take a fantastic black and white shot as a JPEG, you’ll also have the quality RAW file to edit in post-production.

But make sure you have some decent space on your memory card.

On my Canon 5D MKII, I set dual RAW and JPEG mode by selecting the ‘Quality’ tab on the main menu.

I adjusted my settings with the ‘Main’ and ‘Quick Control’ dials so I had both RAW and JPEG selected, and pressed the ‘Set’ button.

Again, for Nikon or other camera brands check the manual to find out how to change the Quality settings.

Ready, Set, Go

With my camera settings sorted, I was ready to begin my 30-day challenge. Here are a few things I learned during my ‘Month of Monochrome.’

Adding a New Layer of Interest

One thing I quickly realized was the power a stripped back color scheme has in lending a unique atmosphere to an image.

Having worked in black and white before (both with film and digitally), I know how evocative an excellent black and white image can be. But working digitally in black and white with no other option was new and refreshing. It hammered home the way a black and white photograph can separate the everyday world and its portrayal. This separation presents subjects in a new and thought-provoking light that generates a significant connection between the viewer and the image.

Minimizing Distraction

When you work in ‘Monochrome’ mode, you appreciate the dominance color can have over a photograph. While confining myself to black and white photography, I could experiment within a gradient, free from the distraction of color. Black and white photography strips an image back to the basics of composition and light. Without the color distraction, I had space to hone in on what makes a compelling story – creating a visual study of a subject.

Learning How Light Behaves

A lot of photography is about observation: watching people, landscapes, light, and shadows. And most photographers have a basic knowledge of how light behaves from these observations.

But black and white photography highlights the fragility of light in every environment with higher acuity than a lot of color photography.

The way an image gets read is affected by degrees of light. Hard light creates a highly contrasted image with dark, hard-edged shadows. It emphasizes drama and immediacy. Soft light is more subtle, rendering a soft, lower-contrast image.

Black and white is all about degrees of light versus shadow. My 30-day challenge encouraged me to take more notice of the light. In each environment, I embraced different lighting situations as a chance to test out my skills and experiment.

Seeing Differently

After the fourth day of my 30-day black and white challenge, I started scrutinizing everyday things with more of a photographic eye. Walking down my street, I began noticing plant life that would look interesting in black and white. The texture on the path I was dawdling along stood out. Because I deliberately made time for my photography each day, my mind started working creatively to seek out more photographic opportunities.

I felt more inspired. There was a greater impetus to hang out to get the best shot rather than the most shots. I felt in the zone.

Conclusion

Photographing in black and white for 30 days was a fun and rewarding challenge. It helped me to rediscover a freshness in photography and inspired me to experiment.

Sure you can convert any photograph to black and white in post-production, but to go out and photograph in black and white in the moment is a different process.

If you ever find yourself in a photographic rut, why not challenge yourself to a month of black and white photography? You never know what you might discover.

Do you have some black and white photography you’d like to share? If so, put them in the comments below.

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Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography

07 Nov

Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography 1

Extreme sports photography is a discipline all of its own.

Each sport has its intricacies, rules, and set of specialists who operate in each arena. Me, I am a long time skateboarder. I’ve been a skate rat since I was a kid. I’ve looked at thousands of images, know how a trick should look and know what the rider is looking for. Put me with a BMX rider and I may have an idea of how they want the trick to look, but I will be unsure of exactly what they’ll be doing. The key, like any genre of photography, is to know what you are shooting and work with your subject to form a bond of trust. 

To those who haven’t shot extreme sports before, it may look easy. But the truth is, unlike posing a model in a studio, sports photography is unpredictable and extreme sports, even more so. With this in mind, here are my top 5 tips to up your extreme sports photography game. 

1. Know The Sport

Ever photographed a ballerina? If you have, you know they will pick out the minute detail in a photo you take. Finger placement or how high they are on their toes will dictate whether a photograph is one they love or one they hate. Extreme sports athletes are exactly the same! The best way to know what a great shot looks like is to start by doing your research. Look on websites such as Thrasher and Ride BMX. See what their photographers are taking. Look at where the photograph is taken from, try to figure what lens they used and how it was lit. As with any photography, breaking it down and visualizing how you want things to look before you shoot is key. The only difference with extreme sports is that the person you are taking a photo of will more than likely be risking personal injury for your photo. You need to be ready, know what settings you want to use and have an angle in mind. Which brings me nicely to….

2. Camera Settings

To quote my all-time favorite movie Ferris Bueller’s Day Off:

 ‘Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.’

Extreme sports is fast. Whole tricks last barely a second. And you need to freeze an incredibly small percentage of that. There are two ways to freeze motion in extreme sports; one is to use a high shutter speed, the other is to use a flash with a small flash duration. Unless you know what you are doing with off camera flash or are shooting at night, using a high shutter speed is a much better option when you are starting out. You need to have your exposure nailed quickly and a high shutter speed will be the easiest way for you to do this. 

You should put your camera into ‘Shutter Priority’ and aim for a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second. This will mean your images will not suffer motion blur, which is important to capture those beautiful moves. The obvious pay off here is aperture and ISO. I would personally suggest when starting out to use a higher ISO and keep a wider aperture. This gives you a larger depth of field to work with and a higher chance of a sharp image. 

This is great when shooting outdoors, but when shooting at an indoor skatepark, you need to think about using flash. Plan your shoot accordingly.

In terms of focus mode for your camera, you should aim to use Ai servo mode. This is designed for shooting action and will give you the best chance of getting the rider in focus. An alternative to this is to pre-focus and then switch to manual focus to keep it locked. This technique involves getting your rider to position themselves where you anticipate taking the photo, focus on this point, then flick over to manual focus. As with everything, read your camera manual, experiment and see which works best for you.

3. Think Don’t Feel

As I said above, extreme sports tricks can last less than a second. By the time you see the perfect moment in your viewfinder, it is already too late. You need to trust yourself and shoot just before the peak moment. Anticipate what is about to happen and trust your instinct. Your instincts will sharpen with practice. With most extreme sports tricks you will have more than one chance to get the shot. In some cases, you may have too many tries. You can help cure your boredom by changing angles if you think of something different, or you can tough it out. However, the unwritten rule of action sports is that the trick must be landed. This argument has been going on for as long as the sports themselves. The rider must make the trick in order for you to put the photo out, otherwise, they are just posing it. Now the even bigger question is: does the photo have to be of the one they landed? This is up to you. Personally, I pick the best photo.

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If I had waited to see this in the viewfinder it would be gone. Try to anticipate and press the shutter just before the peak moment

4. Angles

The best angle for shooting tends to be down low. This adds height to the object and power to the person in your photograph. This technique is one you will see a lot of in magazines, but there are no hard and fast rules. When you get the spot, look around, try taking photos from different angles, until you find the one that makes the trick look powerful. 

In terms of composition, to allow the photo to make sense to the viewer you need 3 key things: where they started, where they are and where they will land. I have lost count of the number of photos I have seen of riders in the air. It has no context, you may as well have just composited the rider onto a sky background. Context is key. 

The third and final tip for composition is to avoid the butt shot. The key to a good extreme sports photo is to be able to see the riders eyes. When finding the angle for your shoot, look at which way the rider approaches the trick and plan accordingly. By getting their face in their frame, you will always get a better photo. 

To answer the question that some of you might be asking, which lens is the best for extreme sports photography? It is the full frame fisheye. The lens gives that wonderful distortion that we associate with this kind of photography. However, this means you are incredibly close to the action, which brings me to my final point.

Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography 3

This was my second to last shot of this shoot. The next try I got hit with a board and cut pretty badly. Be careful!

5. Be Careful

You need to be aware of your surroundings at all times, even if you are shooting with a long lens, there will no doubt be more than one person at the skatepark or spot where you are taking photos. This means people and skateboards will be flying. It is incredibly easy to take a rogue skateboard to the ankle (and incredibly painful) but when shooting with an extremely wide angle lens, such as the fisheye, you can risk taking a rider, board or bike to the head. While it can be easy to feel secure when looking through your viewfinder, you need to remember that being a photographer can be as dangerous as being the rider if the trick goes wrong. Just keep your eyes open and remember a photo is not worth the pain of being hit in the head with a skateboard when a rider misses a trick. Trust me, I know!

Have you tried extreme sports photography? Do you have tips or photos you’d like to share in the comments below?

 

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Blur and Creative Photography – Why Your Images Don’t Need To Be 100% Sharp

06 Nov

Blur and creative photography – Why your images don’t need to be 100% sharp all of the time.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 1

I have an image of a blueberry shot on the end of a spoon with my macro lens. It has a very narrow depth of field (DOF).  Only the front of the blueberry is in focus. The rest has a lovely soft blur.

The first comment when I posted it on Facebook was ‘it would look better if it were all in focus.’

No.

There is a perception amongst some photographers who are very invested in the technicalities of shooting, that absolutely every image has to be 100% sharp. While it is an entirely valid choice – and I fully support the decision to shoot their images that way – it is not the ‘only’ choice.

For those of us who want to explore different creative styles, have fun with different lenses and push the boundaries of what photography can allow us to do in creating art, there are plenty of alternatives.

NOTE: To clarify, sometimes an image ‘just is’ out of focus for whatever reason. This article addresses the photographers deliberate creative choice to use softness or blur in a picture.  It may be a subtle difference for some, but it is a difference.

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Beyond Bokeh

It amuses me that many photographers believe all images ‘must be tack sharp.’ Still, they are out there taking photos of birds, portraits or wedding shots with very soft blurred bokeh backgrounds. However, the reasons they do so are perfectly valid.

Some photographers do so to:

  • soften a distracting background
  • bring the subject into prominence
  • make it aesthetically pleasing
  • give depth and 3D feel to the image

But for bokeh to work well, you need to have some specific elements present and happening. Such as decent quality lenses, a lot of distance behind the subject to the background, and good soft light. Not every shoot offers those situations, nor can everyone afford the best lens.

What if we want even more softness in our image, including the subject? Maybe we want the background sharp, and the subject blurred – a technique often used in some street photography styles.

What about ICM – Intentional Camera Movement? Or Wabi-Sabi, the Japanese/Zen aesthetic of the beauty of imperfection.

There are so many other ways to see the world and present our images with our unique creative viewpoint. If that means smearing stuff on a filter in front of your lens, then smear-away :).

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Learn To Love the Blur

Bring your hand as close to your face as you can, so you can still focus on it. What happens to the background?  If you shift focus to the background instead, your hand blurs.

Distant mountains are blurred as we physically cannot focus clearly that far away.

So its natural for blur to be present in our images. Therefore if we choose to use it more creatively to give our pictures a different feel or mood, we are enhancing a natural element in our world.

Painters can represent a tree in different ways depending on their technique and style. It may be rendered beautifully with every leaf painted as an individual element. It may have stark lines representing a trunk and branches, or colorful blobs in the background.

Photography can be playful, creative, stylistic and artistic as well. We can allow ourselves to love blur.

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Intentional camera movement is popular with stands of trees, soft beach scenes, and fields of flowers. To enhance it, even more, some people stretch plastic film in front of the lens. Or wrap it around the front leaving a small opening to shoot through.

I know flower/macro photographers who wrap gauze fabric around the front of their lens for an alternative soft effect and to add some color as well. Stretching pantyhose across the front of the lens is also cheap and effective.

Smearing petroleum jelly on a filter screwed to the front of the lens is reasonably common for an effective soft blur effect.

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Lens Choices

Lenses with an F stop of 2.8 to 1.4 give a very narrow depth of field, which highlights the subject and softens the background. Macro lenses are excellent for this effect.

Many portrait and wedding photographers will have an 85mm portrait lens with an F-stop in this range. Often specifically used to blur the background for a nice effect.

Lensbaby are well known for their special effect lenses. Their lenses offer lots of creative blur effects.  The ‘Composer’ range allows you to select a specific point in the image to be in focus while softening the remainder. The ‘Twist’ range gives a swirly bokeh effect in the background, and there are other options too.

‘Helios’ and ‘Vivitar’ vintage lenses are experiencing a renaissance in popularity. They have many creative bokeh effects (including the swirl style) and are quite cheap in comparison to Lensbaby. They are vintage manual-focus lenses and may need a specialist mount to attach to your modern camera, but can they can be purchased at very affordable prices.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 6

Vintage ‘Helios’ lens gives very swirly bokeh blur in this image

Have Fun

For some people, it can be scary to let go of the need for sharpness and embrace the softer side. Other people sit happily in that place and rarely shoot a classically sharp shot.

There is room within photography as a creative medium for us to be artistic. To let go of the perceived rules, relax and have some fun doing something different.

Yes, some effects are niche, and you may not want to use them all the time. But you wouldn’t use a Fish-Eye lens every day either.

Having a range of choices gives you much more scope to shoot differently, add your unique take on an image. Using different lenses can help us see the world in new exciting ways and open up opportunities to create memorable images.

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Ways to Play

1. Bokeh

Bokeh relates to the quality and smoothness of your blurred background when you shoot the subject with a shallow depth of field. Different lenses give a varied type of bokeh. Usually, the better quality fast primes or macro lenses have the smoothest, most pleasing bokeh.

Bokeh happens when the subject is closer to the camera than it is to the background. Shooting wide open, i.e., F2.8 to F1.2 will give maximum blur of the background.

So try to shoot your subjects wide open with a narrow depth of field. With the background further away from them, you will achieve the nice soft blur.

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2. Selective Focus

When you combine a narrow depth of field, such as F2.8, with selecting a specific part of the subject, it will soften everything else in the image.

Doing so creates a lovely effect with flowers and macro imagery.

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3. Shoot Through

Place something in front of the lens to add some level of softness.  It can either completely cover the lens or be wrapped around it to only soften the edges.

You can use:

  • nylons stretched across the lens
  • gauzy fabric wrapped around the lens
  • plastic film across or wrapped around the lens
  • filters smeared with petroleum jelly
  • hold fabric or flowers in front of part of the lens to add softness (common in flower photography)

4. ICM (Intentional Camera Movement)

Intentional Camera Movement is when the camera is deliberately moved during the shutter opening and closing to add blur to the image. A neutral density filter can assist with giving you a slightly longer shutter speed if shooting in daylight.

You may have seen this used in shots of forests with vertical stands of tree trunks.

5. Vintage Lenses

Try purchasing ‘Helios’ or ‘Vivitar’ Lenses (or other options) and related mounts for your camera. Many of these lenses have unexpected visual effects (sometimes seen as a fault) but can be used effectively for creative shots.

6. Specialty Lenses

Lensbaby offers a range of lens solutions to give you a variety of soft effects.

Blur and Creative Photography - Why Your Images Don't Need To Be 100% Sharp 10

Lensbaby Velvet 56 at F1.8 is very soft and adds a glamour effect

7. Filters

Soft Focus filters get screwed in front of your lens and are useful in portrait and glamour work. Otherwise, many people mimic this effect in post-processing via Photoshop.

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Conclusion

For those who strive to have every image as sharp as possible, continue with your efforts. If you who want more variation, flexibility, and creativity in your work, there is space to play and create that style of an image too.

It doesn’t have to be expensive. The vintage lenses can be bought online for under $ 100 (depending on freight and exchange rates).

Give yourself permission to relax, experiment and play, and create something unique!

Come over to the soft side. We like it here! ?

Share your images with us in the comments below.

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