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12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography

29 Jun

The post 12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

12 tips for indoor natural light photography

Feeling frustrated with indoor photography? Want to know how you can capture beautiful indoor photos with only natural light?

Working with natural light indoors can be tricky. So in this article, I’m going to share plenty of tips and tricks I use in my own photography. And I’ll also share plenty of examples along the way – so that you can see my advice in action!

Let’s dive right in.

1. It’s all about the windows

Indoor photography comes with a significant problem:

A lack of light. And without light, you can’t get beautiful, well-exposed photos.

So what do you do? Some photographers turn to artificial lighting, such as studio strobes and flashes. But I prefer to keep things natural, which is why I look for light coming through windows, and I use it to illuminate my subject.

In fact, as soon as you’ve chosen a subject, walk around your indoor space. Think about the quality of light that the different windows provide; does it flood the room softly? Does it beam in, bouncing off the walls and floors? How would it look when illuminating your subject?

Soft light will add a soft glow, and harsh light will give a dramatic or moody look.

Also recognize that the color of light changes throughout the day. Light looks warm at sunrise, cool at midday, and warm at sunset.

Once you know indoor lighting well, you’ll be able to use it to achieve the perfect effects.

2. Turn off the lights

Natural light doesn’t like competition.

Specifically, natural light doesn’t like electric lights, which cause two problems:

Electric lights cast unexpected shadows and will interfere with the directionality of your main window light.
Electric lights produce warmer or cooler illumination, which contrasts with the color of the natural light.

In particular, skin tones can look odd when artificial and natural light start to mix.

The easiest way to fix this?

Just turn off all electric lights! That way, you can keep your colors looking natural while focusing on a single light source.

3. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode

In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture while your camera chooses the shutter speed. This gives you flexibility over your exposure without stepping over into the Wild West of Manual mode.

Aperture Priority is generally marked with an AV or an A, as shown below:

aperture priority for indoor natural light photos

So what settings should you dial in for the best indoor natural light photography?

I’d recommend starting with a wide-open aperture to let in lots of light. Choose a low f-number such as f/2.8 or f/1.8 to keep your exposure nice and bright.

Plus, when you use a wide aperture, your depth of field will be shallow. So your subject will stay in focus while your background is left soft and blurry. This adds a beautiful effect to portrait, nature, and product shots.

Note that, for portraits, an aperture of around f/5.6 or f/6.3 will keep the entire face in focus (though this will depend on your focal length and your distance from the subject). Focus on your subject’s eyes for best results.

Also, shoot in RAW. A RAW file will give you a lot more to work with when editing – so you can enhance your indoor photos for stunning results.

4. Choose your white balance in advance

Some photographers like to select their white balance during post-processing (so they’ll leave their camera set to Auto White Balance when shooting).

But while this can work, it’s often easier to get the white balance right before taking a photo (plus, it’ll save you lots of time during editing).

So take your camera off Auto White Balance. Observe the light and consider which white balance preset works best for your situation.

For instance, I generally use Daylight for indoor portrait photography, though you might also pick Cloudy for a warmer look. And the other white balance presets can work, too, depending on the effect you’re after.

Honestly, I’d recommend you try several different white balance settings when first starting out – that way, you can determine which looks you like and which looks you’d prefer to avoid.

(Always bear in mind, however, that the white balance results will change depending on the quality of the light. Applying a Cloudy white balance to a shot lit by cloudy light will give a neutral look, while applying a Cloudy white balance to a shot lit by warm evening light will actually enhance the warm effect.)

And remember:

If all else fails, you can always adjust your white balance while editing.

5. Use a light-catching backdrop

Remember how I said that indoor settings tend to lack light?

That’s why you’ll need to maximize existing light. And a simple way to do this is with a reflective backdrop.

Specifically, a white backdrop will help catch the light and bounce it back onto your subject. Here’s the type of setup I’m talking about:

light catching backdrop for natural light photography

The white material helps cradle the light around the flowers:

And creating a simple light-catching backdrop isn’t hard, either. The one featured in the above photo was made with a freestanding collapsible clothes rack and a long piece of white material.

(It’s very easy to set up and very easy to move around!)

6. Use a light box

A light box will create a similar effect as a reflective backdrop, but it will help control the light even more.

In fact, you can construct a light box with lots of cloth – but instead of putting it behind your subject, wrap it all around. Here’s a makeshift light box I used for this food still life:

use a natural light light box for indoor photos

And here’s the final image:

7. Use a reflector

A reflector bounces light back toward your subject.

And it’s a great way to keep your entire subject nicely lit.

For the shots below, I set up a backdrop and positioned my daughter so that her left side faced the window. She held a reflector in her right hand, which helped lighten the shadows:

tips for indoor natural light photography

And here’s a behind-the-scenes photo:

use a reflector for natural light photography

8. Use a mirror

A mirror is another great way to control natural light. Simply hang a mirror in the window; I used a large suction cup with a hook to hang the mirror pictured below:

Then have your model look in the mirror. As you take your shot, make sure your reflection doesn’t appear. (It can take some patience to get the angles and reflections under control, but it’s worth it.)

I used a small handheld mirror for this shot. A larger mirror would require less cropping:

9. Tidy up

There are often things lying around the house, especially if you have kids. And this clutter can be distracting in a photograph. It’s worth taking a couple minutes to tidy up before you start shooting.

In fact, a backdrop can serve a double purpose here: it can control light, while also covering up all the background clutter! It can help make a small space more workable.

For most of the photos in this article, I pushed our sofa and table into the middle of the living room, then I set up in front of our largest window. Without the backdrop, this location would look far too busy.

10. Place your subject close to the window

Earlier in this article, I talked about the importance of windows when doing indoor photography.

But it’s not enough to just use windows. You also need to carefully position your subject.

Specifically, place your subject a foot or two away from the light source. That way, you’ll make use of the natural light, and you’ll also avoid the harsh contrast that comes from being too close to the window.

One more tip:

Experiment with lighting effects. Try backlighting, sidelighting, and frontlighting (just have your model face in different directions and follow them with your camera!).

11. Use the curtains

If the light is harsh, you’ll get unpleasant shadows and contrasty subjects – unless you can diffuse it!

So here’s what I recommend:

Use curtains or blinds!

If you have translucent curtains, let them cover the window completely. If your curtains are opaque, consider closing them partway, then let the light feather onto your subject.

Alternatively, if your curtains aren’t suitable for diffusing the light, you could hang a piece of diffusive material over your curtain rods.

12. Shoot reflective objects

Natural light can turn the most common thing (like the moisture on the window pictured below) into something beautiful.

Personally, I think reflective objects look gorgeous when hit by sunlight. Here are just a few examples:

So have fun playing around with reflective objects and natural light. The light will create all sorts of interesting reflections, and it’ll even glisten off shiny objects:

natural light through water on the window

Indoor natural light photography: You’ve got to love it!

It’s easy to love indoor natural light photography.

The setup is inexpensive, portable, and easy to use, plus you can create beautiful photos no matter the weather or time of day.

Don’t forget to have fun and let that inner beauty shine through!

Now over to you:

Have you tried indoor natural light photography? Let me know how your natural light shoots go by commenting below!

The post 12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

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The Weekly Photography Challenge – Food

26 Jun

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Food appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Food photography comes in many shapes and sizes, from a phone in a cafe capturing your coffee, to high-end cookbooks and beyond. This week your challenge, thanks to our dPS Group member, Julia, is food! And it can be anything that’s food related (not drinks, that’s in a few weeks)

Share your photographs in the comments section under this post (Details at the bottom) or on social media and make sure you tag us in your post and include the hashtag #dPSFoodChallenge

We have SO many great food photography tips and articles on our website, I’ve made a small collection for you.

Food Photography Tips and Tricks? Click Here For The Lot

I personally love food photography (I’m still learning!) and I can’t wait to see what you all photograph and share! Remember, the dPS Photo Challenges are about pusing yourselves to make a new photograph, so I will be doing that, too! I have a couple of ideas in mind and will venture out to grab a photograph or two!

Your ‘Food’ photograph could also incorporate the process of food, above the chef was getting ready to toss something over the flame – looks fun, don’t singe your eyebrows!

Now, how do you post your photograph in the comments under this post? Here’s the deal… Upload your photo into the comments field below this post (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section below this post) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

If you do get stuck, you can contact our friendly (mostly!… ok, well.. after coffee he’s ok!) support guy. He’s on the email support@digital-photography-school.com ?

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Food appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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12 Phone Photography Ideas for Fun Photo Outings

25 Jun

The post 12 Phone Photography Ideas for Fun Photo Outings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.

I will be honest: I didn’t want to love taking photos with my phone. But then I fell in love with having a small, portable camera at hand at all times, and I was both shocked and exhilarated by what my photography could become with an extra piece of kit in my pocket.

And you can fall in love with phone photography, too! That’s why, in this article, I’m going to share 12 phone photography ideas – so you can have plenty of fun with your phone camera and start capturing some amazing mobile photos.

(I’ll also share plenty of practical tips along the way!)

Let’s get started.

1. Photograph the light

“Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.”

George Eastman

If you ask me what I like to shoot, I will answer: light. Light is the number one subject in all of my photos.

I don’t really care what I am shooting; my eternal search and my greatest passion is light. That is why I am not a genre-specific photographer – I always think of light as my subject.

I love light in all of its formations – the subdued winter light when the cloud cover is thick, which creates a feeling of melancholy. Dappled spring light making shapes on a brick wall, which feels fresh and joyful and fun. The hard light of a summer’s afternoon, creating cutting shadows and making the world look flat.

If I were to offer one piece of advice for phone photography, it would be to get to know light. You may think you already know light, but most people don’t notice the endless variations of light all around them.

close-up of an eye fun phone photography idea

Become familiar with how light behaves and what it’s doing to your subject, and your photography will automatically take big leaps forward.

Tip: To make sure your photos aren’t under- or over-exposed (i.e., too dark or too bright), you can manually adjust the exposure (brightness). Most good phone cameras allow you to do this. It’s usually as simple as tapping on the phone where you’d like to focus; an exposure slider will appear, and you can make the image lighter or darker from there.

2. Look for interesting textures

Textures make up the world. They are everywhere, and they can be infinitely fascinating.

Exploring textures can help us find beauty in even the most mundane of subjects. I like to look for textures at my feet, on walls, and around buildings. I look for natural textures, too, such as slick shiny stones or porous old wood.

Textures are all around, so explore them with your phone camera!

For me, the key to getting the best shots is to use the natural qualities of our phones to improve the composition. Specifically, phones are amazingly mobile; I am always bending down and shooting reflections in puddles, or delving into corners or crevasses, finding little tufts of grass or cool patterns.

So use the mobility of your phone camera to help you change perspective. Seek new and interesting angles that reveal cool textures!

shadows on a wall — I also make sure the light is interesting when I shoot these textures. Interesting light makes every subject interesting!

Tip: Make sure your subject is in focus. (It’s something people often forget with phone photography.) To set the focus, simply tap the part of the scene you want to stay sharp, and your phone will do the rest of the work!

3. Use the rule of thirds

The rule of thirds is one of my favorite compositional rules. It lets you compose interesting shots, and it’s a helpful way to determine where to place key elements in a scene.

So here’s how it works:

Divide the frame into thirds both horizontally and vertically. You’ll end up with a grid of nine equal parts, like this:

Then place your subjects and supporting elements along the different lines and intersection points. This will prevent your photos from becoming too boring – including a subject sitting in the left or right third of the image, with another element in the opposite space, can be a lot more interesting than a centered subject.

street with palm trees — Can you see how this photo is separated into thirds?

Tip: All phones have a built-in camera grid (i.e., a rule of thirds overlay!). This can be super useful when you’re composing with the rule of thirds. So go to the camera settings, find the grid option, turn it on, and compose away!

4. Don’t be afraid to photograph landscapes

In general, landscape photography is considered very technically demanding, and landscape photographers tend to own some of the biggest, priciest gear available. Yet I was astonished by the quality of the landscape photos I captured in Vietnam with my phone. Of course, it helps to have an astonishing landscape in front of you, but it also has to do with phone cameras and their now-impressive capabilities.

So give it a try and experiment with landscape photography.

I recommend shooting landscapes during the early morning or late afternoon/evening golden hours. I’d also recommend heading out during interesting weather – clouds generally add an interesting texture to the sky, for instance.

Try composing your scene with layers – specifically, it helps to find foreground, midground, and background points of interest to create depth. That’s what I did for the photo below:

Tip: I have a tiny tripod that my kids bought for making stop-motion films. It’s super useful for low-light landscapes (you can combine it with your phone’s self-timer to prevent camera shake).

5. Shoot panoramas

Capturing a panorama on your phone is so easy – you simply activate the Pano setting, and your phone does all the work for you. It will either ask you to move the camera across the scene or to take several photos which it then stitches together. Super cool!

I love panoramas because it’s hard to capture the full scale and wonder of a landscape without seeing the vastness of the location. Panos are particularly useful for city shooting, where it’s often tough to capture the expanse of a view in a single frame.

Tip: It may sound obvious, but for the best image quality, clean your lens. Phones sit in pockets and bags attracting all kinds of dust and dirt, and this makes the lens get dirty, fast. Blow the lens to remove any grit, then wipe with a soft cloth.

6. Take selfies

I used to really dislike selfies. But then I realized they’re a great way to record myself in the places I travel to. I don’t know about you, but I am always the photographer in my family or friend group – which means I almost never have my photo taken!

I also think shooting ourselves puts us more in touch with the experience of shooting portraits and helps us empathize with our subjects. Most people don’t mind having their photos taken, but there are people who are reluctant. So experiencing life on the other side of the camera is immensely useful when trying to put portrait subjects at ease.

Tip: Try shooting yourself in reflections. It adds to the playful feeling of a selfie!

7. Look for color

Color is joy. One does not think of joy. One is carried by it.

Ernst Haas

For me, color is a key language in photography. Color is powerful; it can communicate feelings and atmosphere. It can even tell stories. I love to encourage people to play with color and discover the emotions and meanings different colors bring to their images.

It’s definitely worth investigating what the colors in your photos mean to you!

looking up at flowers phone photography idea

Tip: If you want to get more control over color and go a little deeper with your editing, use the Snapseed app (for Android or iOS); it’s very powerful, and it’s also free!

8. Drop your expectations about what you want to see

One of the greatest enemies of finding interesting photos is your expectations.

This is especially true when you arrive in a famous location. You might expect to capture certain iconic places. You may even have a few specific shots lined up in your head.

Here’s the problem:

When you have expectations, you are essentially focusing your attention on the obvious. You’re limiting your awareness so that you may fail to see what is truly in the location around you.

If you expect to see certain things, your brain focuses on those things and blocks out other visual information. For example, if you’re going to Paris, you may fixate on obtaining a good Eiffel Tower shot. So you fixate on the Eiffel Tower – yet you don’t see all of the interesting subjects surrounding it, which may offer a better shot, better angle, or better elements.

This problem sounds simple, but I see it time and time again on my workshops: people tunnel-visioned by their expectations. Drop the expectations, focus on finding original shots, and you will see so much more.

9. Take your time, wander, and get lost

Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.

Pablo Picasso

Without a big camera around your neck, when you go out wandering, you could be anyone doing anything. You can blend into the background and nobody will see you as a photographer. It’s a freeing experience, and it lets you capture more honest, authentic moments.

To me, using a camera phone is all about roaming, getting lost, and figuring out how to photograph the place at which you end up. So take your phone, wander, and have fun. Then try to absorb the atmosphere and life of each place you choose to shoot.

Tip: Investigate your phone camera’s hardware and software. Many phones have added lenses and offer more control with every iteration. So check out your phone manual or look up the specs online.

10. Photograph the moments of life

Taking pictures is savoring life intensely, every hundredth of a second.

Marc Riboud

Did you know that you can use photography to create something extraordinary from your life at any moment? Focusing parts of our life on creating and not just consuming or doing brings so many benefits.

This is where using a phone camera to keep a diary of the interesting moments of your life really comes into play. Personally, I want to savor my life. I want to weave being creative into my everyday activity!

So look around you. Appreciate what’s going on. And photograph moments of interest.

Now, when you always have a camera at hand, it can be tempting to just snap away and record everything you do. I don’t encourage that. Instead, live the moment, be in the moment, and – at times – use your camera to be intentionally creative.

Tip: When I am shooting fast-moving subjects – like my kids! – my phone’s burst mode offers a great way to get the subject in motion. Depending on your phone, you may be able to hold down the shutter button and capture a burst (and if that doesn’t work, check your manual for instructions specific to your phone).

11. Look for emotion

Photography for me is not looking, it’s feeling. If you can’t feel what you’re looking at, then you’re never going to get others to feel anything when they look at your pictures.

Don McCullin

Admit it: Most photos you see on social media or on your camera roll are boring. But why?

One very common reason is that they lack any type of feeling; they have no emotional impact. The photos are flat and uninteresting because the photographer was so busy focusing on the technical aspects of shooting, or on the subject and composition, that they forgot to include that magical element of emotion.

Humans are emotional beings, and we communicate through our emotions (just think about how adverts play on our emotions and manipulate us into wanting to buy stuff!).

It boils down to this: If you stand in front of your subject and don’t feel anything, it’s unlikely your future viewers will feel anything, either.

So look for subjects, places, people, things that make you feel something. It’s an easy way to figure out what to shoot. And you can feel any emotion: sadness, joy, awe, excitement, or delight.

Tip: Most up-to-date phones now come with a Night mode, and it helps the camera compensate for limited light. With Night mode on, you can do handheld shooting even at night. On most phones, you need to manually activate Night mode (but iPhones will do it automatically when they sense the low-light conditions).

12. Train your eye with mini-seeing projects

To me, photography is an art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place…I’ve found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them.

Elliott Erwitt

There are billions of pieces of visual information around us at all times. But our brains block most of it out – otherwise, instead of getting to the task at hand, we’d be constantly looking around and feeling overwhelmed by all that we see.

While blocking out all this visual noise is helpful for getting things done, it’s not helpful when we are trying to discover interesting shots. We want to see more of what’s around us. We want to open up our awareness.

I recommend using mini-seeing projects to help you do this. Specifically, pick a subject – and take a picture every time you encounter it. Yellow cars, discarded gloves, people with red hair, snail trails; the world is full of items worth noticing!

You’ll soon start to see how much you miss because you are basically just distracted with your life.

I always have something like this going on. I’m currently collecting photos of torn posters, interesting cloud formations, and things crushed in the street. It’s a really fun way to develop your seeing skills.

And of course, phones are a great way to do these mini seeing projects, because you can carry one with you at all times!

12 phone photography ideas: final words

So that’s it for my phone photography ideas! Hopefully, you’ll feel more excited and liberated as you go out and shoot with your phone.

Now over to you:

Do you have any additional phone photography ideas? Do you have any mobile photos you’re proud of? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

flowers against a blue sky phone photography ideas

The post 12 Phone Photography Ideas for Fun Photo Outings appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anthony Epes.

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Black and White Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Getting Started

22 Jun

The post Black and White Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Getting Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

If you’ve never tried black and white photography before, you may feel a bit intimidated. After all, how do you get started? Should you be shooting black and white on your camera, or should you be converting color images to black and white? And how can you create stunning black and white images, anyway?

In this article, I aim to answer all those questions. I’ll explain the value of black and white, how to do it, plus I’ll share some tips along the way!

Why is black and white photography important?

In the photographic world, black and white is an art form of its own. Some would even say the best photographers work in monochrome. It’s a medium with a rich history; look at the work of Ansel Adams, Edward Weston, or Henri Cartier-Bresson for some truly stunning examples.

Just as importantly, working in black and white can help you become a better photographer.

How?

It’s all about seeing.

Color is very powerful. It tends to dominate photos – to the point that beginners struggle to see other key elements like contrast, texture, shape, form, and quality of light.

Experienced photographers instinctively see these things, regardless of whether they work in color or black and white. But if you’re just starting out, you may need some assistance. Black and white strips away color, allowing you to focus on the other elements that matter.

seaside black and white — Black and white emphasizes the textures of the rocks and sea in this landscape photo.

Naturally, there are certain subjects that tend to work better than others in black and white. In particular, black and white lends itself to landscapes and portraits.

So if this is your first time shooting in black and white, then those are great starter subjects!

black and white portrait — Black and white portraits emphasize expression and light.

How to shoot in black and white

Before digital photography, the only way to work in black and white was to use black and white film.

But these days, you have two options:

You can shoot in color and convert your photos to black and white in Lightroom, Photoshop, or some other post-processing program.
You can switch your camera to its Monochrome mode.

I highly recommend you choose the second option, and here’s why:

By shooting in black and white from the beginning, you’ll get black and white previews on your camera’s LCD. You’ll also be able to see in black and white via your camera’s Live View mode. And if you use a mirrorless camera, you can look through a black and white viewfinder – so you know exactly how the different colors will convert before you press the shutter button.

(If you’re not sure how to switch your camera to black and white, check your camera’s manual. Don’t worry; it’s not difficult!)

One last piece of advice here:

Shoot in RAW, not JPEG (or shoot in RAW+JPEG, which will give you a file in each format every time you press the shutter button).

RAW essentially offers you insurance. If you decide you don’t like your shot in black and white, your RAW files can be reverted back to color with the click of a mouse. And if you decide to extensively edit your photos in post-processing, RAW gives you a lot of flexibility.

However, if you’re new to photography, I recognize that you may want to work exclusively in JPEG, and that’s okay. Just know that you’ll probably want to switch to RAW eventually (it’ll deliver better image quality in the long run).

Working in Monochrome mode

As explained above, I highly recommend you set your camera to Monochrome mode. And to get basic black and white shots, that’s all you need to do.

However, once you’re in Monochrome mode, you may have color filter options. And through careful application of these filters, you can capture even better black and white shots.

Color filters

The color filter settings come from the days of film photography. Photographers would use color filters to alter the tones in black and white photos. These days, digital photographers rarely work with physical color filters – instead, they use camera software or post-processing to mimic filter effects.

Your camera likely includes a few color filter options. For instance, you might use a yellow or orange filter to darken a blue sky or a red filter to turn it nearly black.

Here’s a shot before adding a color filter:

black and white church with less contrast — This scene works quite well in black and white, but it’s not nearly as dramatic as it could be.

And here’s the shot after applying a red filter:

Black and white church with red filter — Applying the red filter setting makes the blue sky go much darker, creating a dramatic version of the same scene.

There is also a place for green filters, which can bring out more detail in green subjects like leafy forests.

Those four colored filters (red, orange, yellow, and green) have made their way onto most digital cameras as black and white settings.

Quick tip: Don’t forget about contrast!

If you take a photo in dull light – in shade, for instance, or under a cloudy sky – the photo may look flat (i.e., two-dimensional), especially in black and white.

So what do you do?

You compensate by increasing the contrast. A contrast boost will deepen the shadows, brighten the highlights, and make your main subject pop!

Here’s a portrait without a contrast adjustment:

b&w portrait with no contrast adjustment — The model was standing in the shade when I took this photo. The light lacks contrast, and the black and white photo is flat.

And here’s the same portrait, but with a contrast boost:

Black and white portrait with contrast adjustment — Increasing contrast creates a much stronger image.

To my eye, the final (adjusted) result is much more powerful.

You can increase the contrast after the photo has been taken (in Photoshop or Lightroom), or you can do it in-camera by adjusting the contrast setting (see your manual if you’re not sure how to do this!).

Composing in black and white

Remember how I said black and white forces you to think about other key elements, such as shape and form?

It’s true. And it’s the reason why composition becomes so important when shooting in black and white.

Unfortunately, there’s not really a quick solution to capturing good compositions; a lot of it just depends on your ability to see shapes, lines, and textures (which you can develop through practice or study or simply by looking at great photography).

However, there is one item that can improve your black and white compositions:

The aspect ratio.

You see, certain aspect ratios (such as the 1:1, or square format) make composition easier. Whereas other aspect ratios (such as most cameras’ native 3:2 ratio) make composition tricky.

So after you’ve set your camera to Monochrome mode, I recommend heading into the settings and changing the aspect ratio to Square. It’ll improve the way you frame scenes (and if your camera has an electronic viewfinder, it’ll let you see the new aspect ratio in real-time!).

Black and white photography in a square format — Cropping to the square format emphasized the shapes of these three pots.

Toning in black and white

Toning is the process of adding color to your images, but only after they’ve been converted to black and white.

This can give very cool effects – for instance, it can turn your shots yellow or purple or red.

Now, your camera may allow you to tone your photos when you take them. But the effect is usually very heavy-handed, which is why I recommend you avoid in-camera toning.

Instead, test out toning in post-processing. You can have lots of fun applying a single tone to your images (such as a nice sepia). And if you want to get really creative, you can add multiple tones, an effect called split toning.

Black and white photography: final words

Black and white is a beautiful medium to work in, one that you will appreciate even more as your skills grow.

In the meantime, have fun and enjoy yourself. You are following a path trodden by some of the most famous names in photography!

Now over to you:

Have you tried shooting in black and white before? How did it go? Do you have any favorite black and white subjects? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Black and White Photography: A Beginner’s Guide to Getting Started appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

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The Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs

19 Jun

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

They’re everywhere! Pets, running back and forth across parks, sitting on the couch beside you as you read this post about the weekly challenge… Dogs, man’s best friend or maybe you’re not a fan of them and that’s ok too (Though it might make this assignment difficult!) this week is simple, the theme is ‘dogs’ and it doesn’t really matter how you photograph your dog, as long as you do.

The Hashtag for this week’s challenge is #dPSDogs for Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. Of course you can join and share your photograph in our private Facebook group!

This little chap used to sit on the counter at the little news shop outside Earls Court Tube in London, I’d see him most mornings.

This is ‘Betsy’ (I didn’t get the bloke’s name, just his dog) they were walking down Portobello Road market… Betsy whipped her head around as I went to grab a photo… you know what they say about photographing pets & children! You have to be quick!

Here are a few articles that might help you out with some technique or ideas for photographing your (or someone else’s) dog.

Why taking photos of your pets will make you a better photographer.
How to photograph your pets.
Tips & Tricks for Photographing your own dog.

If you do get stuck, you can contact our friendly (mostly!… ok, well.. after coffee he’s ok!) support guy. He’s on the email support@digital-photography-school.com ?

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Dogs appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2021)

14 Jun

The post 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Deciding on the best camera for landscape photography can be a daunting task. But don’t worry; whether you’re a beginner looking to get your first camera or a more experienced photographer looking for a more dedicated option, we’ve got you covered.

Specifically, we’ll share a list of our top 10 favorite landscape cameras – including options for every budget and brand preference.

Let’s get started.

10 best cameras for landscape photography

How to choose the best camera for landscape photography

When looking for the right landscape camera, what characteristics should you take into account?

Weight

First, the weight of your camera is considerably important. If you are out walking long distances to your chosen location, you don’t want to be trudging for miles with the burden of a heavy camera and lenses in your backpack.

Resolution

For landscape photography, the higher the number of megapixels, the better; enhanced resolution will give your camera the ability to record those extra details and tones.

Also, sensor size is key. The larger the sensor size, the better the image quality (generally speaking).

Build quality

If you are someone who enjoys capturing landscapes in dramatic weather, it is essential that your camera has appropriate weather sealing to keep out the elements and enable you to carry on shooting when it rains.

ISO and IBIS

While a sophisticated autofocus system with quick subject selection and fast shooting modes is not essential, in-camera features such as high-ISO capabilities and in-body image stabilization (IBIS) can certainly make a difference.

For example, impressive high-ISO performance will help you capture more dynamic range in low light – perfect for anyone who likes to shoot the stars, the planets, or the moon.

Camera type

Generally speaking, advancements in technology mean that smartphones, compacts, and bridge cameras are all capable of achieving great landscape photos. But while these are cheaper options, these camera systems are less practical and adaptable than other setups. Many professional and enthusiast photographers choose either a full-frame DSLR or mirrorless body as their go-to landscape photography camera.

Which is better, mirrorless or DSLR? Most DSLR cameras are part of well-established lineups and therefore offer great landscape lenses. Mirrorless cameras are newer to the photography arena and have fewer lens choices available.

Medium format is also one of the best camera formats for landscape photographers, as it provides the very best quality images. However, disadvantages include weight, size, and high prices.

As DSLR, mirrorless, and medium format cameras are often out of reach for beginners and amateurs due to price, a cheaper and more preferred option is the APS-C system, which is lighter and has a smaller sensor system.

Ultimately, which system and camera you choose depends entirely on your personal needs and budget. With these factors in mind, here are some of the very best cameras available for landscape photographers in 2021:

1. Canon 5DS R

The Canon 5DS R is a 50.6-megapixel full-frame DSLR and a fantastic choice for landscape lovers, thanks to its superb image quality and impressive camera build. It is a firm favorite, featuring beautifully detailed files – and when coupled with the classy L-series lenses, it can match the very best high-resolution cameras available (even if the dynamic range is less sophisticated than its newer competitors). For added functionality, you get 61 phase-detection points. And the 5DS R costs less than Canon’s top-end mirrorless camera, the EOS R5.

2. Canon EOS R5

Canon arrived late to the mirrorless game, but the company now offers one of the best cameras for landscape photography. The Canon EOS R5 is the ultimate mirrorless camera, one that packs a punch with an excellent 45-megapixel count, plus it provides brilliant image quality and a wide dynamic range.

There is a growing range of RF lenses that mount directly on the EOS R5, plus you get the added advantage of 8K video. While the electronic shutter takes a bit of getting used to, the advanced weather sealing is fantastic. The EOS R5 does come with a hefty price tag, and it’s a huge investment for someone who simply does landscape photography as a hobby, so if you like the sound of the EOS R5 but don’t have the budget for it, I’d also recommend the EOS R6 (which costs significantly less).

3. Nikon D850

Nikon D850 the best camera for landscape photography

The Nikon D850 comes highly recommended for landscape shooters, offering outstanding dynamic range, excellent (45.6-megapixel) resolution, and a touch-sensitive LCD screen that tilts. The extended battery performance, impressive ISO performance, and high-quality images make the D850 a popular choice for shooting in the great outdoors. It can record up to 9 frames per second, it packs 4K video, and it’s one of the best all-around DSLRs on the market.

4. Nikon Z7 II

The Nikon Z7 II is a stellar camera, and one of the best mirrorless landscape options available in 2021. Specifically, its lightweight build, in-body image stabilization, touchscreen, 45.7-megapixel sensor, impressive dynamic range, and excellent image quality are all beneficial to landscape photographers, assuming you can afford the price.

The Z7 II is highly responsive in the field and has great focusing capabilities in low light. The camera also packs an exceptional electronic viewfinder and superb customizable features.

Note that the Z7 II is a welcome refinement to the already impressive Z7; the second iteration features a dual processor and dual card slots, which are hugely useful for the professional working photographer.

5. Canon EOS 90D

If you are just starting out and do not want to pay for a full-frame camera, you may find the Canon EOS 90D to be a worthwhile choice. Sure, it doesn’t offer that classic full-frame image quality – but the 90D is a very good camera for landscape photography, thanks to a large optical viewfinder, a strong build quality, and a nice 32.5-megapixel APS-C imaging sensor (that will produce some incredibly detailed photographs and video footage). The 90D’s size makes for easy handling and the camera mounts EF/EF-S glass, so there is a huge range of compatible lenses for you to choose from.

6. Nikon D5600

Another great camera choice for those on a budget is the Nikon D5600. For hobbyist landscape photographers, this midrange DSLR has a 24-megapixel resolution and is capable of capturing great images with fine textures and superbly crisp detail. The 3.2-inch vari-angle touchscreen, 39-point AF system, and new time-lapse movie mode are great additional features, and the ISO range of 100-25600 ensures low-light landscape scenes are handled with ease. The D5600 has a wide range of interchangeable Nikkor lenses at its disposal, and it’s light and extremely portable, ideal for long walks in nature.

7. Sony a7R IV

Sony a7R IV the best camera for landscape photography

The Sony a7R IV is a superb quality camera that would carry well inside the backpack of any dedicated landscape photographer. Key features include a jaw-dropping 61-megapixel full-frame sensor for optimal image quality, the ability to shoot handheld in low light thanks to an in-body image stabilization system, and an attractive array of lenses from extreme wide-angle to large telephotos. The camera has very robust weather sealing and is notably cheaper than the Canon EOS R5.

8. Sony a6000

Are you a newbie photographer looking to invest in a camera for landscape shooting? Then check out the Sony a6000, the ultimate compromise between power and portability. It’s well priced, shoots quickly with 11 frames-per-second continuous shooting, packs 24.2 megapixels, has a built-in flash, and delivers great images of landscapes in all conditions – making it a great entry-level landscape camera and a solid introduction to the mirrorless market. Autofocus is good and you get great video. The absence of in-body image stabilization, as well as a lower resolution viewfinder compared to its rivals, are justifiable tradeoffs.

If your budget allows for the extra cost, the Sony a6500 is a newer option.

9. Fujifilm X-T4

Looking for a camera with exceptional build quality that doesn’t compromise on color tones and dynamic range? The Fujifilm X-T4 is one of the best all-around options for landscape photographers. The camera looks modern, feels great in the hand, and the lightweight system is a joy to operate. It’s a great choice for buyers needing high megapixels, fast shooting speeds, in-body image stabilization, and 4K video capture. If your budget really is limited, consider its predecessor, the X-T3, which houses an identical sensor and comes at a lower price.

10. Fujifilm X-T200

Fujifilm X-T200 the best landscape photography camera

Here’s my final choice for the best landscape camera: the Fujifilm X-T200. It’s one of the best entry-level mirrorless cameras for landscape photographers and comes highly recommended. The retro style and compact size are a nice touch, while the large 3.5-inch vari-angle touchscreen makes the X-T200 extremely versatile for shooting landscapes. It is lightweight, affordable, and excels in low light. Featuring an APS-C 24.2 MP sensor, the X-T200 can create professional-looking images for landscape photography enthusiasts. For those after an even cheaper model, the X-T100 is a great alternative.

Which landscape photography camera is right for you?

With so many great cameras to consider, it can be challenging to decide which is the best camera to invest in.

While it is justifiable to go for the latest mirrorless cameras, a DSLR still handles well and gives great image quality and overall performance (and APS-C cameras are arguably the best value for money). The Fujifilm X-T200 or Sony a6000 are great options for beginners looking to get their first landscape photography camera – or if you’re after a more dedicated and sophisticated camera, a full-frame model like the Canon 5DS R or the Nikon Z7 II packs a lot of features to suit more experienced photographers.

Above all, remember that the best camera for landscape photography is a personal choice and is relative to your budget and needs!

Now over to you:

Which of these landscape photography cameras do you like the most? Do you have a favorite that didn’t make our list? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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4 Tips for Drop-Dead Gorgeous Waterfall Photography

13 Jun

The post 4 Tips for Drop-Dead Gorgeous Waterfall Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Eric Leslie.

4 tips for gorgeous waterfall photography

Waterfall photography is a lot of fun – but coming home with the best shots can be a difficult task.

In this article, I’ll share four simple tips designed to take your waterfall photos to the next level. I’ll discuss the best gear, settings, and light…

…and by the time you’re done, you’ll be ready to capture waterfalls like a pro.

Let’s get started.

1. A camera and a tripod is good enough

Photographers often claim that waterfall photography must be done with neutral density filters, but this is completely false.

All you need is a camera that can shoot in Manual mode and a tripod. Nothing more.

See, the biggest problem that waterfall photographers face is the light. When the sun is bright and overhead, you’ll end up with blown-out highlights and dark shadows that don’t look great. Plus, the light is harsh and flat, not flattering for landscape photography.

And sure, you can put a neutral density filter on your lens, which will block some of the light so you can do long exposures. But even the best ND filter can’t change the quality of the light, which should be your primary concern.

So instead of thinking about your equipment, focus on your timing. Show up at sunrise and sunset, when the light is soft and beautiful. You can also come toward the middle of the day if the waterfall is heavily shaded. Waterfalls are often in deep canyons, so as long as the sun is behind the mountains, you can achieve a long exposure with nice even light, with or without a neutral density filter.

In fact, you can plan ahead to maximize this. Think about it: if the waterfall you want to shoot faces east, the sun will start moving behind the falls in the afternoon. So an east-facing waterfall can be shot with beautiful shade in the late afternoon. You won’t need an ND filter; the shade will let you lengthen the shutter speed all on its own.

2. Choose a shutter speed based on your waterfall

What’s the best shutter speed for waterfall photography? I think the answer varies – like people’s taste in fast food.

Personally, I put waterfalls into two different categories. There are the falls that rage so hard they take your breath away. And there are the falls that are dainty and delicate.

In general, I don’t want my waterfalls to turn out as a blob of white water. So I set my shutter speed (and my other settings) accordingly.

For big, roaring falls, I try to keep my exposure under a second. Anything between 1/4s to a full second will show the water’s motion and still retain lots of detail.

Small, stringy waterfalls just love putting on a show with longer exposures. These falls look great when you can go as long as possible. If you need to narrow your aperture to get a lengthy shutter speed, that’s okay; don’t be afraid of losing sharpness. Photography is always about compromises, and in this case, the slightest loss in sharpness will be greatly outweighed by capturing the water’s movement. For smaller waterfalls, I recommend an exposure between one and four seconds, so stop down to f/22 if you need it.

I usually start with the lowest ISO my camera offers (ISO 100). Then I set my aperture small enough to maximize focus, usually around f/8 or f/10. Finally, I dial in a shutter speed based on my camera’s meter.

Here, my goal is to create a good exposure while also ensuring beautiful water. So if the shutter speed isn’t in the right range, I’ll adjust the aperture or ISO to get the ideal result.

3. Take a second exposure to keep the foliage sharp

Have you ever tried to shoot a waterfall with a long exposure and noticed that the leaves on the trees and plants move with just the slightest breeze? And turn into a messy blur?

It happens all the time, and it’s not ideal. So here’s what you do:

After you’ve bagged your main shot of the waterfall, look around the edges of the photograph. See if the plants are soft and fuzzy. If they are, increase your shutter speed to 1/100s or faster (the goal is to freeze the moving plants). To keep a nice exposure, you can open up the aperture, but make sure you don’t lose your maximum focus. If you still don’t have a fast enough shutter speed, boost your ISO until you get the result you’re after.

Back home, take the two exposures and blend them together using layer masks in Photoshop.

4. Head out when it’s cloudy

Cloudy days are incredible for waterfall photography. (And rainy days? Even better!)

Cloudy days offer all the benefits of shooting when the sun is low or when the waterfall is in the shade – except you have the freedom to shoot all day long without stopping.

I also find you get much better color when it’s overcast, so mossy rocks and autumn leaves really pop. And you get a wonderfully dark, dramatic mood with lots of beautiful shadows:

One pitfall to avoid on cloudy days, though:

Including the sky. Cloudy skies are boring and drab and generally poor additions to a waterfall photo.

So if you can get up high to shoot down on the falls, do it; you’ll eliminate the sky for a more pleasing composition. You can also try shooting falls in heavily forested areas, or you can zoom in for a more intimate waterfall shot (one that keeps the sky outside the frame).

Worst-case scenario, you can frame out part of the sky then clone out the rest in post-processing. But this takes an annoying amount of time, which is why I highly recommend getting it right while out shooting.

Waterfall photography tips: final words

As with all things photography, shooting waterfalls takes practice and experimentation.

But if you remember these tips and persevere, you’ll get great shots in no time at all!

Now over to you:

What do you struggle with most in waterfall photography? Do you have any advice for readers? Do you have any waterfall images you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post 4 Tips for Drop-Dead Gorgeous Waterfall Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Eric Leslie.

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The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports

12 Jun

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

It doesn’t need to be some sort of pro-level sport, it can be a local football game, some skateboarding on the street, Surfing or Soccer… You can choose, but you have to go and find, and photograph some form of sport or something connected to a sport. Easy! As usual, you need to take your photograph this week and share it in the comments below (There is a HOW TO at the end of this post, just keep reading) or you can share your photo in our FACEBOOK GROUP or on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter where you can tag us (how to tag someone on social media)

If you’re tagging your photograph on social media, please use this week’s hashtag #dPSSports

Sports photography, just due to the sheer fact that most sports move at a bit of a fast pace, is usually approached with a faster shutter speed. Not all sports, but a lot. The surfing photo below, combined with a brighter day (outdoors, where most surfing is done, I’m sure you’ll agree!) and some good fast movement by the surfer left me with a 1/8000th shutter speed at f/3.2. I could have stopped down to bring my shutter down some, but my goal, at that distance from the surfer (190mm on a Canon 70-200 f/2.8) was to isolate him from the whitewash in the bottom of the frame, and aim for a nice sharp wave. (Indoor sports photography and Outdoor sports photography can be quite different in terms of light!)

Missed a challenge? Catch up here!

Surf Photography Sydney Australia Simon Pollock

I’ve photographed a lot of my son’s soccer for the last couple of years, just a dad on the sidelines with a camera, for fun, to document his games and the enjoyment he gets from playing his sport, I’ve slowed my shutter a little in this frame to try and get a little movement, depicting the action, I didn’t really achieve it, but it’s one way to show action in sports photography – give it a try!

The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports

Before I sign off for this weekend, here’s a handy ‘Intro to Sports Photography‘ that might make for some good reading before you head out to find your photograph. — Have fun!

If you do get stuck, you can contact our friendly (mostly!… ok, well.. after coffee he’s ok!) support guy. He’s on the email support@digital-photography-school.com

The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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11 Street Photography Ideas to Spark Your Creativity

11 Jun

The post 11 Street Photography Ideas to Spark Your Creativity appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Coming up with fresh, interesting street photography ideas can be a challenge – especially if you’re first starting to explore the genre.

But don’t worry. Because in this article, I share 11 ideas for beautiful photos, all designed to help you get excited about street photography.

Some ideas are a little more abstract than others; some may suit your tastes and others may not. But don’t only consider the ideas you feel comfortable with. Step outside your comfort zone and try something new. It’ll help you grow as a photographer, and it’ll add a richer dynamic to your portfolio of images!

© Kevin Landwer-Johan Tourists in Vietnam — Nikon D1X | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/8s
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

1. People connecting

Instead of photographing individuals or groups of individuals, look for people interacting with each other. Aim to capture their relationship. This may be as simple as the exchange that takes place when someone buys a newspaper or street food.

I photographed the ladies below in a street market in Myanmar. The place was packed, and busy, too, with people coming and going. The two women met in the middle of the street and had a good catch-up. I have no idea what they were talking about, but it seemed like they had not seen each other for a while.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan Two women greeting each other in the street — © Kevin Landwer-Johan

Standing close to them, I took a series of photos. They were engrossed in their conversation and quite oblivious to my presence.

2. Bicycles

I think you’ll find bicycles in most cities, towns, and villages, no matter your location. And they make wonderful photography subjects! You can photograph people riding bicycles, or bicycles that have been parked, bicycles with their owners, and bicycles without.

Look at the shapes and lines. Emphasize the wheels, handlebars, or seat. Come in close and consider the details. All bikes are unique and have some special features that you can focus on.

I’ve been photographing bicycles since I got my first camera. By now I have a pretty good collection of bike images.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan street photography ideas - bicycles — Nikon D800 | 55mm | f/3.5 | 1/320s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

3. Shadows and reflections

This idea is a little more abstract, and it’s all about looking for interesting shadows and reflections to photograph.

Note that you can find shadows and reflections made by pretty much anything. And it’s not about the item itself, just the effect of it interacting with the light.

Dark shadows on a bright, sunny day are created by interestingly shaped items. Bikes make wonderful shadows. Trees do, too. Use your imagination when the sun’s out, or at night when passing under a street light.

(Also, think long and hard about whether you want to photograph just the shadow, or whether you want to include the item making the shadow, too.)

Reflections are all around you: In shop windows, the chrome of a classic car, puddles on the pavement after rain. Once you begin to look, you’ll start to see them everywhere.

reflections and shadows street photography — Nikon D800 | 35mm | f/8 | 1/200s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

4. A bird’s-eye view

Look for locations where you are above the action. Capturing a bird’s-eye view of a street scene offers a perspective most people won’t otherwise experience.

After all, a view from above shows the world differently from how most of us see it.

So how can you achieve the bird’s-eye view perspective? Search for a footbridge or an overpass. Balconies, second-floor windows, and mezzanine floors are also all great places to shoot from above.

birds eye view of woman in a market for street photography ideas — Nikon D700 | 35mm | f/4.5 | 1/10s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

5. Interesting modes of transport

How are people getting around? What are they using to carry their stuff from one place to another? Look for unusual and interesting modes of transport to photograph.

You might find an old person pulling a cart or an entrepreneur with a vehicle crafted to fit their specific needs. Maybe you’ll see a business person in a suit on a scooter or skateboard.

Many cities have public transportation that may seem common to their inhabitants – but it’s unique to the location and very unusual outside of those places.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Horse and cart — © Kevin Landwer-Johan

6. Find the best light

Morning and evening are often considered the best time to take photographs because the light is richer and more flattering. But whatever time of day you can get out and about with your camera, always try to determine where the light is best.

In street photography, you need to study your locations and decide where to position yourself to make the most of the light. You can’t change the light, so you must do what you can to manage it well.

When you can’t get out in the morning, late afternoon, or evening, you’ll need to try harder to find the best light. It’s not impossible, just challenging. Look for where the light reflects and plays off surfaces in an interesting way. Position yourself and wait.

You may be surprised at what you can photograph.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Market woman street photography — Nikon D800 | 55mm | f/4.5 | 1/320s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

7. Work one location

Shoot in the same location, over and over again. For a week, a month, or a year. Commit to spending time at the same location regularly – for longer than you think you will need to.

By sticking with a single location, you’ll be forced to push yourself creatively.

Consider what makes the place unique or special. Aim to capture its character. What do you observe happening each time you’re there? Visit at different times of the day and night. How does the light vary? Shoot from as many different angles as possible.

Sure, it’ll seem hard, especially at first. But it’ll be great for developing your eye and your creativity.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan street photography kids playing football — Nikon D1X | 35mm | f/3.2 | 1/125s
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

8. People working

Find people doing what they’re good at. Ask permission and offer free prints of your best photos.

When someone’s engrossed in what they’re good at, it’s easy to capture expression and feeling. You may be surprised at what you can photograph just from walking down the street.

Once you’ve found a person to photograph, observe them carefully. Look for peak moments in their activity. Watch for repetition. Capture the most significant aspects of their tasks with the aim of telling a story about what they are doing.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan. Bike repairs in the street in China — © Kevin Landwer-Johan

9. Shoot in black and white

Working in black and white is a classic – and somewhat cliché – street photography idea, but I feel compelled to include it. Black and white is easy to overlook. But it’s a great way to produce powerful photos.

Some photos are simply stronger in black and white. Some subjects and lighting conditions just lend themselves to monochrome.

Are you struggling with inspiration? Thinking and photographing in black and white can be the perfect way to get your creativity flowing!

Strip away the color. Pay careful attention to the light and tone. Look to present more feeling in your photos.

resting at the market. © Kevin Landwer-Johan — Nikon D800 | 35mm | f/1.4 | 1/4000s | ISO 400
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

10. Photograph people (and interesting things)

Get bold. Take some street portraits. And if possible, get your subject to pose with a prop.

Why? Props help people feel more comfortable. Plus, when a person’s holding something interesting, their attention will be a little distracted. They won’t be totally focused on you and your camera.

Ask the people you photograph some questions about their prop. Show that you are interested. This can also bring up valuable information, which can then lead to other street portrait ideas.

person on the ground with mannequin © Kevin Landwer-Johan — Nikon D800 | 20mm | f/2.8 | 1/60s | ISO 800
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

11. Local animals

Look for birds, dogs, and cats in the street to photograph. Capture them as they sleep and as they eat.

Find a cat who owns the space it lives in. Look for a dog that wants attention from everyone who passes. Capture birds as they clean up crumbs left on an outdoor cafe table.

You’ll end up with some wonderfully intimate street shots!

buying a rooster. Street photography ideas — Nikon D800 | 105mm | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 200
© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Street photography ideas: final words

Hopefully, you’re now feeling far more motivated – and you have plenty of ideas worth photographing.

So choose one or two items that resonate with you. If none of the above work, check out the list below, where I’ve included some additional options. Work on a few to see which ones stick. Then go with the flow, and you’ll soon find you don’t want to put your camera down!

My list of additional street photography ideas:

Environmental portraits
People and signs
Minimalism
Empty streets
Current issues
Hands
Close-up portraits
Silhouettes
Slow shutter speed
Decisive moment
Street art
One color
Shapes (squares, circles, triangles)
Looking through things (frame within a frame)
Worm’s-eye view
Reflections
Photograph from inside
One lens

Street photography idea FAQs

What makes a good street photo?

It captures the essence of a place as you perceive it.

How do I start street photography?

Pick up your camera and head out the door. It’s as simple as that!

What are the rules for street photography?

I know of no rules for street photography. But here are a few suggestions: Photograph what you’re interested in. Be polite and stay safe. Make good art.

Is street photography legal?

In most countries, you are allowed to photograph whatever you like so long as you are on public property.

The post 11 Street Photography Ideas to Spark Your Creativity appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

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10 Must-Know Camera Settings for Concert Photography

05 Jun

The post 10 Must-Know Camera Settings for Concert Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matthias Hombauer.

10 key camera settings for concert photography

What are the best concert photography settings, and how can you use them for great results?

Settings are a key part of getting awesome concert photos, especially in low-light situations. If you get your settings right, the results will be spectacular. But if you get them wrong? Your shots will be blurry, unpleasant, and just all-around bad.

That’s why, in this article, I’m going to share 10 settings for concert photography. These are the exact camera settings I use in my own concert shooting, so you know they work. (And I promise: They’ll help you immediately boost your career!)

Let’s dive right in.

The Rolling Stones
Nikon D800 | 185mm | f/4 | 1/320s | ISO 1600

1. Use Manual mode or Aperture Priority

When I started off doing concert photography, I used Aperture Priority mode. I would dial in the aperture, my camera would set the shutter speed accordingly, and I’d hit the shutter button.

And in general, Aperture Priority works well. It’s great for beginners because it partially automates the exposure process, giving you one less thing to worry about.

But after shooting for a while, I recognized that only Manual mode would give me the flexibility I was after. I wanted to set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO – and then change each setting on the fly based on my requirements.

So depending on your level of experience and comfort, pick one of these two options.

(Also, if you do choose Manual mode, make sure to frequently check your LCD preview and your histogram to ensure your exposure is correct!)

Fink concert photography settings — Fink
Nikon D700 | 14mm | f/2.8 | 1/200s | ISO 3200

2. Use your lens’s widest aperture setting

Struggling to decide which lens to use for concert photography? I always give the same advice: use fast lenses and shoot them wide open.

Set your aperture to the smallest f-number your lens allows, which will give you the biggest aperture opening. That way, the most possible light hits your sensor.

A wide aperture is especially important in low-light concert photography. If possible, shoot with an f/2.8, f/1.8, f/1.4, or f/1.2 lens.

If you’re a beginner on a budget, I’d recommend grabbing a 50mm f/1.8 lens, which is cheap, features a wide maximum aperture, and offers surprisingly nice image quality.

3. Use a fast shutter speed

Have you ever been to a concert where the artist was running and jumping from one side of the stage to the other?

This type of action makes for some great photography – but to freeze such movement, you must use a fast shutter speed.

In general, I set my shutter speed to 1/200s or faster (and depending on the level of action, you may want to push this even higher.)

Miley Cyrus
Nikon D800 | 340mm | f/4.8 | 1/320s | ISO 1600

4. Boost your ISO

The higher your ISO, the less light you need for a proper exposure – and in concert photography, where light is generally limited, this is a key setting to get right.

Your camera’s ISO range likely starts at 100. But if you’re shooting a low-light concert, I’d recommend kicking this up to 1600, 3200, or even 6400. Otherwise, your shots will end up far too dark (or you’ll be forced to drop your shutter speed, which will introduce blur).

Unfortunately, a high ISO does come with a significant tradeoff:

Noise.

As you push your ISO from 400 to 800 to 1600, you start to get little flecks of color and light that look pretty bad. The specifics will depend on your camera (modern sensors do a very good job of minimizing high-ISO noise!), but you should always be cautious when boosting the ISO. Only raise it when absolutely necessary, and be mindful of your particular camera’s high-ISO capabilities.

5. Use spot metering

Spot metering limits your camera’s exposure readings to the center of the scene – which allows you to determine the exposure based on a small subject (e.g., a face). It works especially well when your subject and background are differently lit.

And when shooting concerts, the artist will often be lit by a spotlight while the rest of the stage remains dark.

So here’s what you do:

First, switch your camera to spot metering mode.

Then place the artist’s face in the middle of your viewfinder and memorize the recommended exposure settings.

Finally, if you’re using Manual mode, you can dial in the settings, then compose without worrying about fluctuating meter readings. If you’re using Aperture Priority, you’ll need to lock in the exposure; that way, you don’t end up with varied exposures as the performers jump around your viewfinder.

If you don’t like spot metering and it’s giving you bad results, you can try the matrix/evaluative metering mode. The camera will take a light reading at several points in the scene, and this can work – but you’ll want to be on the lookout for overexposed faces, especially when the background is dark.

Atari Teenage Riot
Nikon D700 | 50mm | f/1.8 | 1/2500s | ISO 1600

6. Use the middle autofocus point

Did you know that different autofocus points feature different levels of accuracy?

It’s true. Peripheral autofocus points tend to work fine in good light, but the performance weakens as the light drops.

Whereas the center autofocus point remains effective in both good light and bad.

That’s why I recommend you use the central focus point in low-light situations. It’ll be the most accurate, and it’ll ensure you get the sharpest results, no matter what the artist is doing on stage.

If you don’t want the artist to sit smack-dab in the center of the frame, you’ll need to use a focus-and-recompose technique; simply push your shutter button halfway down to focus on the artist’s face – this will lock focus – then adjust your composition until you get the desired framing. Once you’ve nailed both focus and composition, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

Note: To use this focus-and-recompose technique, you’ll need to set your camera to One-Shot AF, also known as AF-S. Otherwise, the camera will focus continuously while you reframe your picture.

(You can also set up back-button focus, which many shooters – myself included! – love. With back-button AF, you use a button on the rear of your camera to lock focus, then use the shutter button to take the shot.)

7. Use Auto White Balance

White balance combats unwanted color casts in your scene, and it’s important to use if you want good-looking photos.

However, I highly recommend you deal with white balance after taking your photos, during post-processing. So set your camera to Auto White Balance, then ignore the WB setting until you’re back at home.

You see, if you shoot in RAW, the white balance is completely flexible. Whether you determine the white balance setting at the time of capture or whether you wait until you’ve opened up Lightroom days later makes zero difference.

Except that setting the white balance during a concert is difficult to do, especially when you have different lights flashing all around the stage. So do yourself a favor and leave the white balance setting for another time.

Skunk Anansie
Nikon D700 | 85mm | f/3.5 | 1/500s | ISO 1600

8. Use burst mode

Your camera’s burst mode setting, also referred to as continuous shooting, lets you do rapid-fire photography.

With burst mode activated, you can shoot five, ten, or even sixty frames per second, depending on your camera.

And this is hugely helpful in concert photography, for two reasons:

If you take several shots in a row, at least one of them will probably turn out sharp even if the others aren’t in focus.
Multiple photos increase your chances of nailing the perfect frame.

Now, I don’t recommend you set your camera to its high-speed continuous shooting mode and use it nonstop. You’ll run out of storage space pretty quickly, plus you’ll just end up with thousands of unnecessary photos.

But I do recommend analyzing the situation, then – when you’re ready to capture split-second action shots – turn on burst mode and use it judiciously.

Make sense?

9. Never use flash

This is a quick tip:

Don’t use flash at a concert.

For one, you’re not allowed; imagine ten photographers bursting their flashes all at the same time.

And straight flash pictures don’t look great. For good flash photography, you’ll need to position your flash off to the side of the artist (i.e., you’ll need an off-camera flash), which isn’t really feasible in a concert setting.

Korn concert photography settings — Korn
Nikon D700 | 130mm | f/2.8 | 1/250s | ISO 3200

10. Shoot in RAW format

Here’s your final concert photography setting, and it’s a big one:

Always, always, always shoot in RAW.

If you shoot in JPEG, your camera will automatically add processing, such as contrast, saturation, and sharpness. And while it might look nice, it’ll limit your post-production freedom, so you won’t be able to further enhance your concert photos.

On the other hand, if you shoot in RAW, the camera won’t process your photo at all. That way, you can change parameters such as exposure, white balance, saturation, contrast, and clarity long after you hit the shutter button.

(In other words: If you’re careful and deliberate with your editing, you can make your photos look a lot better!)

Must-know concert photography settings: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re well-equipped to capture some stunning concert photos. And for quick reference, here are the concert settings I recommend:

Manual mode
Your lens’s widest aperture
A fast shutter speed
A high ISO
Spot metering
The middle autofocus point
Auto White Balance
Burst mode
No flash
RAW format

So the next time you’re out shooting a concert, make sure to dial in those settings. Your photos will instantly improve!

Now over to you:

Which of my recommended settings do you use for concert photography? Do you have any additional settings you love to use for concerts? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The Prodigy
Nikon D800 | 85mm | f/1.8 | 1/320s | ISO 1600

Zola Jesus concert photography settings — Zola Jesus
Nikon D700 | 50mm | f/1.8 | 1/200s | ISO 1600

The post 10 Must-Know Camera Settings for Concert Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matthias Hombauer.

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