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Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

6 Reasons Why Photography Matters

27 Jan

The post 6 Reasons Why Photography Matters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

6 reasons why photography matters

Why does photography matter?

It’s a question that we all ask at one time or another. After all, why do we keep waking up at 4:00 AM to photograph the sunrise, when we could be warm and comfortable lying in bed? Why do we spend long hours tweaking our compositions and learning about photography fundamentals when we could be watching television or out with friends?

And some days, when we have no creativity at all and pressing the shutter button seems like the hardest thing in the world, we continue to persevere – but why? What is it about photography that’s so compelling?

What motivates us to keep going?

In this article, I’m going to share six reasons why I think photography matters. Hopefully, these ideas will help you find clarity and motivation – and will encourage you to capture images, even when it feels like everything is pointless and you should put down the camera forever.

Let’s get started.

1. Our photographs tell us what is important to us

When you ask people what possessions they would rescue from their burning house, one of the most frequent answers is a photograph album or a computer with all their digital images.

Interesting, isn’t it? We would grab photos over valuable jewelry, even in moments of panic.

This impulse to save our recorded memories is a powerful force, one that tells us much about the role of photography in our lives – and speaks to our constant desire to distill our most precious moments into images.

Why photography matters tree with spotlight

We preserve the important events and people in our lives. The ceremonies of birth and birthdays, marriages and anniversaries, holidays and new houses are all recorded because they matter.

Photographs are our personal story, a timeline of our lives filled with faces and places that we love. They are our story, which we can then share with others.

Ultimately, the thousands of images we take come together to form a narrative of our lives.

2. Photographs are part of our legacy

I remember sitting on a train as it passed a playground where children were standing at attention for the annual school photograph. In the front row sat the teachers, and behind them, hundreds of children were neatly preened and uniformed. For the briefest second, the entire assembly was motionless. We passed just as the photographer clicked the shutter.

Then, as if in slow motion, the huge group scattered as children escaped their enforced immobility. The neat rows dissolved and broke down into individuals who were kicking balls or huddled with friends.

None of those children realized that the photograph was probably going to outlive them. A couple of generations later, the school photo might resurface among old papers in an attic, and someone would search for their grandfather among the fresh, young faces.

Photographs matter because they freeze moments of our lives that pass unremarkably and which seem to have little importance to us at the time. The significance of a photo might not even be ours – instead, it might be for others who search for the person we once were or the places we once knew.

Each photo can be a small piece of a jigsaw that completes the larger picture of our lives.

misty mountains

3. Photographs allow us to share and to communicate

Images are much more than a simple record. Photography speaks to the best and most generous part of our human nature – the desire to share what we find beautiful and interesting with others.

You only have to look at the multitude of photo-sharing sites to see this impulse at work, where millions of people share their personal, passionate, and sometimes quirky take on the world around them.

In other words, our images can share our lives with strangers. How powerful is that?

mountain landscape

4. Photography makes us artists

Photography allows us to express ourselves through an art form. We notice a beautiful landscape or an old man’s lined face and we want to capture it.

Each of us will have a different specific reason to take a photo, but we all want to create something.

However humdrum our nine-to-five lives may be, the creation of an image makes us an artist. It feels good.

5. Photography is a complex language

Our images can express joy and sorrow, wonder and sympathy. Every human emotion can find a place in photography.

For many years, I never valued my photographs of overcast landscapes, because I believed there was no beauty in a land with muted colors and a leaden sky. I wanted the land to be alive with color and vibrancy.

However, the lack of color in a landscape makes you search for other things that often go unnoticed in bright sunlight. This could be the symmetry of hills or a tree standing out from a forest of thousands.

To expand this further:

I have suffered from depression for most of my adult life, and photography gives me a language to express feelings for which I can find no words. We have a miserably poor vocabulary for mental illness, but photography has allowed me to develop a visual language for some of my most difficult emotions.

foggy mountains

6. Photography has the power to move us

Photographs can grab our attention and speak directly to our emotions. There are plenty of powerful photos – such as Nick Ut’s photograph of a crying Vietnamese girl whose clothes have been burned away by napalm – that can make us feel things.

On a more subtle level, photography teaches us lessons about a whole range of emotions. Grief has the power to wash away the brightness and color of our lives. There is no magic way to restore these. We have to be patient. But while waiting, we can search for the shapes and patterns that are still present in the grayness. They will lead us back to color eventually. During moments of great sorrow in my life, I have used images to express that hope of returning color.

Why photography matters sunbeams in a forest

Photography, at its best, is a powerful language that speaks to our emotions. It allows us to tell our story and shows others our framing of the world around us.

Why photography matters: Conclusion

Hopefully, you now have a better sense of the different reasons people pursue photography – and why photography is important.

Now I’d love to know:

Why do you do photography? What motivates you to keep taking pictures? What is it about photography that inspires you?

Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Declan O’Neill is a professional photographer who lives in the South Island, New Zealand. He travels extensively, capturing the beauty of New Zealand’s extraordinary landscape. The photographs that accompany this article are part of a series entitled “The Anatomy of Melancholy,” which is dedicated to the memory of his sister, Ann, who died from Multiple Systems Atrophy.

The post 6 Reasons Why Photography Matters appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.


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Backlighting in Photography: The Ultimate Guide to Beautiful Backlit Images

21 Jan

The post Backlighting in Photography: The Ultimate Guide to Beautiful Backlit Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

backlighting in photography the ultimate guide

When used creatively and intentionally, backlighting can be an incredible tool to take your photography to the next level.

However, the concept of backlighting seems somewhat counterintuitive.

After all, when your subject is backlit, the main source of light is coming from behind, not from the front – and conventional photography wisdom generally says that your subject should be well-lit from the front.

So how can you create backlighting that looks good? How can you capture backlit images that really stun the viewer?

That’s what this article is all about.

Let’s dive right in.

Backlighting spider
Nikon D750 | Nikon 50mm f/1.8G | 50mm | 1/250s | f/4 | ISO 1100

What is backlighting?

In order to understand how to use backlighting, you should know what the term means.

So what actually is backlighting?

The following diagram depicts a standard photography scenario with the main source of light behind the camera.

frontlighting diagram

Using this type of setup, the subject is well-lit, and there is a shadow cast on the wall directly behind the subject. The result is a detailed, evenly-exposed image that conforms to the basic principles of photography.

In contrast, backlighting reverses the subject and the light source.

The light goes behind the subject (and points toward the camera), which causes the shadow behind the subject to vanish. Backlighting results in a photograph where the subject is usually much darker than normal.

Backlighting diagram backlight

Also, placing the light behind the subject often results in a silhouette or glow effect. This makes the final image look different from a normal photograph and can be jarring, at least at first.

But with a little practice, you can use this technique to create images that are unique and stand out from the crowd.

Backlighting in portraits

Backlighting is a tried-and-true portrait photography technique – one that can get you some stunning photos.

How does this work?

It helps to see some actual portrait photos that illustrate the concept of backlighting versus frontlighting. This first image is a fairly standard portrait shot:

maternity frontlit
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 122mm | 1/350s | f/4 | ISO 800

The subjects are lit from the front, and the image is evenly exposed without any harsh shadows. It’s a great photograph, and it meets all the normal criteria for a maternity shot someone would want to put in a frame or a photo book.

Now, let’s look at another photo of this couple, this time shot using backlighting:

Backlighting maternity couple
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 180mm | 1/3000s | f/2.8 | ISO 400

The parents-to-be are shrouded in shadow (which I was able to boost in Lightroom, thanks to the RAW file format), and the woman’s hair is glowing with a brilliant golden halo. The man has a glowing outline around his head, and the entire scene has a slightly mystical quality to it.

This is all due to the creative use of backlighting.

When you light your subjects from behind, you can get images like this, which pack glowing hair, brilliant outlines, and a beautiful background. This type of photo does take practice, but with a little trial and error, you can use backlighting to get similar results.

Here’s a head and shoulders portrait of a young man:

Backlighting senior portrait frontlit
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | 1/250s | f/2.8 | ISO 100

The sunlight is coming from the front, his face is evenly lit, and the background is colorful and easy to see.

Now compare that image to its backlit counterpart:

Backlighting senior portrait
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | 1/180s | f/2.8 | ISO 320

His hair suddenly looks like it’s on fire, and his ears have a bit of a glow. The right side of the background is lush and green, whereas the left side, where the sun is positioned, is almost entirely blown out. Even the man’s shoulders are outlined in gold, and the photo has an energy to it that the frontlit photo just can’t match.

As you can see, knowing how to use backlighting to your advantage can result in portraits that stand out from the pack. It may be a little tricky at first, especially if you’re using natural light instead of studio light.

But with a little practice, you’ll get the hang of backlighting – and you’ll get the type of pleasing reactions from your clients you never knew you were missing.

Backlighting isn’t just for portraits, though! It can be used in a variety of situations for creative, inspiring images, including nature photography:

Backlighting in nature

To illustrate the power of backlighting for nature photography, check out this backlit landscape image:

Backlighting sunrise pine trees
Nikon D7100 | Nikon 35mm f/1.8G | 35mm | 1/3000s | f/4 | ISO 200

Once you start looking for the light, you’ll notice shots like this everywhere. In fact, one of the best ways to learn backlighting is to go out in nature and simply experiment by putting your subjects between the camera and the sun.

Sunrise and sunset are great times to try out backlighting. Look for situations where your subjects are at a bit of a distance; it also helps to have a general idea of where the sun will be at dawn and dusk. Metering with backlight is tricky, so I like to use Aperture Priority to control the depth of field and then dial in exposure compensation to get my shots as light or as dark as I want.

A rule of thumb I like to use in these situations:

Expose for the highlights, then bring up the shadows in Lightroom. Basically, try not to make your photo too bright, because you may end up with clipped highlights (i.e., white, informationless areas that cannot be darkened).

Backlighting sunset wind turbines
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | 1/4000s | f/22 | ISO 100

You can also look for more mundane subjects on which you can practice, like interesting leaves:

backlit leaves
Nikon D7100 | Nikon 50mm f/1.8G | 50mm | 1/1500s | f/2.8 | ISO 100

Remember:

When shooting in nature, the main source of light is the sun, but you don’t have to use direct sunlight. In the image above, the mid-afternoon sun made these leaves glow. The sun isn’t in the frame, but it still lit the leaves from the back and gave me a fun photo opportunity.

I used a similar technique for the image below. You can see how my use of backlighting made this large blade of grass appear almost translucent. The shot was not an accident, and I was only able to capture it by looking for new ways to shoot familiar subjects. In this case, I was only photographing a simple piece of grass!

Backlit grass
Nikon D7100 | Nikon 50mm f/1.8G | 50mm | 1/500s | f/4.8 | ISO 100

Most people would pass by this scene without a second thought, but it just goes to show how backlighting can give new life to even mundane subjects.

Silhouette backlighting

One interesting way to use backlighting is to obscure your subject altogether. This technique is known as silhouette backlighting, and it can be a fun and creative way to showcase people, animals, and other objects.

How does this work?

You create silhouette images by shooting directly into the light source – which completely darkens your subject. The result is a photo that shows a shape or outline instead of a well-exposed subject.

To get the image below, I pointed the camera at my main source of light, then waited for someone to walk by. The fountain itself doesn’t emit light, but instead reflects what comes from the sun – and it was so bright that it completely darkened my subject. The image tells a story, even without seeing any details of the person.

silhouette person fountain
Nikon D7100 | Nikon 85mm f/1.8G | 85mm | 1/1000s| f/4 | ISO 200

I used a similar backlighting technique to get this shot of a young woman in the early morning:

silhouette person sunrise
Nikon D200 | Nikon 50mm f/1.8G | 50mm | 1/6000s | f/4 | ISO 200

I knew where the sun was positioned, so I waited patiently until a person walked into the frame. By putting my subject directly between the camera and the main source of light, I was able to capture a silhouette. The end result is much more interesting than a normal, properly-exposed image taken in broad daylight.

Silhouettes aren’t just for people. You can use silhouette backlighting for a variety of subjects; all it takes is a little creativity and a willingness to try something different.

Some type of Manual mode (either full Manual or Aperture Priority with exposure compensation) is best for these shots. It’ll give you better control over the final image, and you won’t need your camera to make exposure decisions in tricky lighting conditions.

goose fountain
Nikon D750 | Nikon 70-200 f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | 1/4000s| f/2.8 | ISO 100

One of my favorite ways to use silhouette backlighting is to create sun stars, like this:

Backlighting sun flare
Nikon D200 | Nikon 50mm f/1.8G | 50mm | 1/400s | f/16 | ISO 200

I start by putting a large building between my camera and the sun.

Then I move around until the sun is poking out from behind a corner of the building. I shoot with a small aperture, usually f/8 to f/11, and I shift the camera position until I get the shot just right.

This technique takes practice, but you can easily get the hang of it in under 15 minutes.

Use Aperture Priority and exposure compensation, and look for ways to use the light that might not have occurred to you before.

Backlighting in photography: Conclusion

If you’ve never experimented with backlighting, then I encourage you to give it a try and see what happens.

You might think shots like the ones in this article are beyond your skills, but all it takes is a bit of practice, a dash of patience, and a willingness to try something different.

Backlighting is a fun, creative technique, and you might just find yourself using it far more than you expected!

Have you ever tried backlighting? What did you think of it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Backlighting in Photography: The Ultimate Guide to Beautiful Backlit Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration in 2021

20 Jan

The post 15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

ways to find photography inspiration

Photography inspiration is easy to lose.

Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to ignite your creativity and get you excited about shooting again!

In this article, you’ll discover 15 ways to feed your photographic inspiration.

Let’s dive right in.

1. Make a list

Photography inspiration can manifest in mysterious ways. And while it may seem removed from the photographic process, list-making can actually help inspire new creative photography ideas.

Try compiling a list of photography goals to work through, or make a list of subjects to photograph. These lists can be as detailed as needed, so grab a pen and paper and brainstorm your next move.

flower abstract
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | 1/6400s | f/1.8 | ISO 100

2. Get some exercise

Researchers have found that mood and creativity can be improved by physical exercise.

So if you’re in the midst of a creative lull, lace up your shoes and head out the door for a quick walk around the block – you could even bring your camera!

3. Try a new medium

photography inspiration pastels
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | 1/80s | f/4.0 | ISO 100

Trying a new artistic medium can often provide surprising artistic perspectives that feed into photographic inspiration.

Activities like drawing or painting can open you up to fresh compositional insights that inspire intriguing creative possibilities.

4. Keep a journal

Maintaining a written journal is a great way to get down your important photographic processes on paper.

Journaling encourages introspection, which will help you nail down the effective aspects of your photography (and which you can reflect on later).

Ultimately, keeping a journal can give you a clear sense of creative direction, inspiring new photography ideas and approaches.

5. Make time for photography

It’s easy to get wrapped up in the day-to-day. But actively setting aside dedicated photography time feeds photographic inspiration and facilitates creative growth.

Regularly making time for photography will help exercise your creative muscles – even if it’s only an hour a week.

6. Try new equipment

photography inspiration extension tubes flowers
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | 1/250s | f/2.8 | ISO 100

Trying new equipment can broaden photographic possibilities considerably.

Simple and cost-effective accessories like extension tubes, prisms, and filters are economical ways to inspire new methods of photography.

7. Make a mood board or a visual diary

Mood boards and visual diaries are used by artists to keep creative information in one place. By creating an accessible source of inspiration, artists can more easily expand on their own processes and ideas.

Traditionally, visual diaries were kept on paper. Today, websites like Pinterest and Tumblr allow you to maintain a visual diary or mood board online.

No matter which method you use, mood boards and visual diaries are a tried-and-true source of valuable photographic inspiration.

8. Catch up on art history

Art has a rich and varied history dating back millennia. Familiarizing yourself with art history contextualizes, informs, and expands creative output.

In fact, a good knowledge of art history can help you identify the subjects and approaches that have inspired creatives over the centuries, which you can then use in your own photography!

9. Revisit old photographs

black and white deer
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | 1/160s | f/5.0 | ISO 100

The depths of a photographic library can be a great source of inspiration. When sifting through old photographs, opportunities to revisit past subjects and locations may reveal themselves, inspiring new photography ideas.

Looking through old photographs can also reveal consistent errors to fix in future photoshoots. And it can draw attention to how far you’ve developed over a period of time, encouraging a positive sense of creative growth.

10. Check out art establishments

Art establishments, such as galleries, are full of inspirational material.

And since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, plenty of galleries have added online tours and online events that allow you to experience art from the comfort of your own home.

11. Read photography books and magazines

photographer index
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | 1/1000s | f/2.5 | ISO 100

These days, most visual art material comes from a digital screen. But reading photography books and magazines can inspire a greater appreciation for printed photography, which can feed new creative possibilities.

12. Find photography inspiration by learning from past mistakes

From forgetting gear to technical or practical mishaps, photography, like any art form, is full of easy mistakes.

But when mistakes happen, don’t get discouraged. Instead, make a note of what went wrong – and be inspired to do better next time.

13. Reach out to fellow photographers

Photography often seems like a single-person endeavor, but reaching out to other creatives is an important way to generate and share inspiration.

From Instagram to in-person photography meetups, there are plenty of ways to connect with fellow creatives; ultimately, you can encourage growth and creativity in yourself and other photographers.

14. Photograph a favorite subject

aircraft photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | 1/400s | f/16 | ISO 100

Photographing a favorite subject can help you remember the reason you took up photography in the first place.

While it isn’t always easy, prioritizing a session of photography simply for the sake of reconnecting with a favorite subject is an effective way to boost photography inspiration.

15. Challenge yourself

Photographing challenging subjects supports creative growth. Sure, photographing tricky subject matter can be intimidating. But getting outside your comfort zone is a surefire way to generate photography inspiration.

If you like landscape photography, give portraiture a try. Or if you’re into abstract photography, why not focus on wildlife for a change?

In short, take the opportunity to branch out. This will broaden your photographic experience and help you develop a more versatile approach to capturing images.

Ways to find photography inspiration: Conclusion

From photographing a favorite subject to maintaining a journal, there are many simple ways to get out of a creative rut.

And while it’s true that photography inspiration can be elusive, making these changes to your creative habits is a great way to build your skills and develop new approaches!

Do you have any additional tips for finding photographic inspiration? Share them in the comments below!

The post 15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration in 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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13 Snow Photography Tips: A Beginner’s Guide

17 Jan

The post 13 Snow Photography Tips: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

snow photography tips for beginners

Does your heart jump a little on a snowy winter day?

Do you want to run outside and start shooting?

I know how you feel; I love snow photography, too!

So if you’re after some stunning snow photos…

…then read on!

snow photography tips a beginner's guide

13 snow photography tips: a beginner’s guide

The tips in this article will help you get some great photos in the snow – while also keeping your camera safe.

So make sure to keep these tips and techniques in mind the next time you head out for a snow photoshoot!

beginner's tips for photographing show

1. Focus on contrast

Autofocus can have a hard time when everything is white. So you’ll need to be extra-careful, and do your best to focus on a contrast-heavy area of your snow scene.

It helps to focus on something dark, like the bark that’s just below a lump of snow on a tree branch.

Remember:

Your camera’s autofocus system uses contrast to focus, so a plain white mound of snow may cause issues.

Press your shutter halfway. If the focus won’t lock on, move your focus point to a darker area of the subject and try again. This usually does the trick.

photographing snow beginner's tips

2. Camera settings

Set your camera to shoot in RAW. When you take photos in RAW, you will have more information to work with when editing – whereas JPEG files are compressed, so they don’t allow for much post-processing latitude.

(Learn more about why you should shoot in RAW here.)

Choose Evaluative metering (which is called Matrix metering on Nikon cameras). Evaluative metering will do a good job of getting you a correct exposure, and it’s what I used for all the photos in this post.

If the weather is really sunny, you may also want to try Spot or Partial metering to see if it can handle the light better.

Exposure compensation. Your camera will try to make snow look gray, so set your exposure compensation to +1 or +2. That will keep the snow looking white. You can also adjust the exposure during editing.

3. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode

Aperture Priority mode (AV on Canon, A on Nikon) will allow you to quickly change your depth of field. When shooting in Aperture Priority, the camera will choose the ISO (if the camera is set to Auto ISO) and the shutter speed, so all you have to do is switch between aperture settings.

This is great in cold weather (where cold fingers make it tough to change settings on the fly), and allows for a lot of creativity.

4. Capture snow while it’s still fresh

There’s nothing like a fresh snowfall.

snow photography tips

If you want footprint-free snow, you should plan the photos you’re going to take and the order you’ll take them in (so you don’t trample the snow during the shooting process!). 

Capturing fresh snow might also mean going out early to shoot (before the kids get up!).

5. Keep your batteries warm

In cold weather, your batteries won’t last long. So charge two, and keep one in an inside pocket.

When the battery in your camera runs low, replace it with the warm one. Then put the drained battery in your pocket; you may even be able to use it again once it warms up.

6. Bag your camera

Condensation can form on the outside and inside of your camera when you bring it in from the cold. That’s scary, but it’s easy to avoid.

When you are heading out into the cold, just bring along a large zip-lock bag. I usually keep one in my camera bag or jacket pocket. 

Then, when you’re ready to go inside, put your camera in the bag and make sure the lock is sealed tight.

Once you’re in the house, put your camera somewhere it can warm up slowly. When the camera reaches room temperature, you can take it out of the bag and use it normally.

I leave my camera bag in the car while I’m taking photos. But before getting back into the car, I put my camera in the zip-lock bag, then in the camera bag. That way, the camera comes up to temperature slowly and condensation doesn’t form.

7. Don’t let the weather stop you

Snowy landscapes look good in both sunny and cloudy weather.

On cloudy days, when everything is white, include elements that will break up the monotony and add interest to your photo. 

Also, if it’s snowing, use an umbrella to protect your camera. And if it’s too cold to go out, roll down your car window, grab your shot, and roll it back up.

snow photography tips for beginners

While I don’t take my camera out in super cold weather, some people do. Read more about protecting your camera and yourself in cold weather (by David Shaw, who’s in Alaska and knows all about cold weather!)

8. Act fast

Snow can change quickly. It can start or stop falling in an instant. 

And when the sun comes out, snow can start melting very fast. Those beautiful trees can go from dazzling to drab in no time at all.

snow photography tips for beginners

So don’t wait.

Get out there and do some snow photography!

9. Be patient

Light can change fast.

The sun can go behind a large cloud and totally change how the snow looks. You may need to wait for the sun to come out again. This can be hard when it’s cold, but it’s worth it!

After all, sunshine and shadows add beauty and drama to a snowy scene.

photographing snow: a beginner's guide

10. Keep all your images

Don’t delete any photos from your camera.

Instead, wait until you’re warm and comfy and you’re sitting in front of the computer.

You’ll be able to see your photos more clearly, and your fingers won’t freeze!

11. Play with perspective

Shoot from different perspectives. Try to show the way snow blankets the ground, weighs things down, and clings to everything.

tips for photographing snow

But watch out for falling snow. It’s not so nice to have a clump land on your camera!

12. Play with shutter speed

Shutter Priority mode allows you to choose your shutter speed while the camera takes care of the rest (assuming you’re using Auto ISO). 

And by experimenting with your shutter speed, you can create all sorts of cool effects!

For instance, with a fast shutter speed, you can freeze falling snow in midair.

With a slow shutter speed, you can turn those flakes into long white streaks.

Nice, right?

13. Capture some bokeh

A sunny winter day is a great time to create bokeh. And with all that sparkling snow and ice, this shouldn’t be too hard!

To create bokeh in your photos, look for a subject that has something bright or shiny in the background.

This could be the light reflected off the ice or melting snow. Use a wide-open aperture (e.g., f/2.8 or f/4), and make sure there is some distance between your subject and the shiny background.

With a shallow depth of field (from the wide aperture), your subject will be in focus, but not the shiny background elements.

And this will create lovely background bokeh, like in the photo below:

13 tips for photographing snow

Let it snow!

Will you be out taking photos on the next snow day? I’m planning on it, and I hope you are, too. 

Have fun with your snow photography, and experiment with different settings for creative results. Just remember to dress for the weather and bag your camera.

If you have some snowy photos to share, I would love to see them! I hope you’ll share your favorite snow photography tips, too – just add them in the comments below!

The post 13 Snow Photography Tips: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.


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7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography

17 Jan

The post 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

tips for black and white portrait photography

In the era of digital cameras capable of capturing millions of colors, why would you choose to do black and white portrait photography?

For me – and many others – it’s a simple matter of aesthetics. A good black and white treatment has a way of stripping unneeded information from an image, helping you emphasize specific elements without the distractions color can create.

And fortunately, portrait photography is a genre where black and white images can really shine.

However, like any photographic technique, there are tips you can follow to make sure your images have the most impact. In this article, I offer 7 simple tips that will instantly improve your black and white portraits – no matter your level of experience.

So if you’re looking to take your black and white portrait shooting to the next level, read on!

1. Start with black and white in mind

Black and white portrait photography tips

For many photographers, black and white is more than a creative choice at the post-production stage; instead, it’s a mindset. If you can start creating an image knowing that you ultimately intend it to be black and white, you can take steps to ensure that all of the elements of a good monochrome image are in place before you press the shutter.

Things like tonal contrast, lighting contrast, and appropriate expressions from your subjects are all elements that are difficult, if not impossible, to fix after an image is taken.

If you have trouble imagining how an image may look in black and white, try using the monochrome setting on your camera. While I don’t recommend you use an in-camera black and white conversion for your final image, as long as you shoot in a RAW file format, then all of your image’s color data will still be present in the file, and Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw will reset the photo back to color once it’s imported.

Working in black and white will give you an idea of how an image will look without color, while still providing the highest amount of versatility in post-production.

2. Keep the eyes sharp and well-lit

Black and white headshot in black and white

In the majority of portraits, the most important part is the eyes. Eyes are usually the focal point that the rest of your image is built around.

And this is especially true in black and white.

Due to the lack of color, a black and white image often breaks down into graphic forms and shapes. Eyes are shapes that everyone recognizes, and they immediately capture the attention of your viewers.

So make sure that your subject’s eyes are well-lit and in-focus for a stunning black and white portrait.

3. Expressions are emphasized in black and white portraits

woman's expression emphasized in black and white

As with the eyes, other facial features become very prominent in a black and white portrait.

Use this to your advantage by conveying emotion in your images. Even tiny changes in your subject’s expression can make a difference. Things like a raised eyebrow, a twitch at the corner of the mouth, and smile lines under the eyes can all be used to great effect.

Here is an exercise you can do with your portrait subjects to get a mixture of great expressions:

Prepare a list of words or phrases, then ask your subject to react to each one.

The words you choose can be simple descriptors of emotion, such as love, sadness, joy, anger, and melancholy.

For more diverse expressions, try abstract words. You can even go for funny words, such as cheeseburger, politics, Teletubbies, or Hulk smash. Plus, if you have a subject who’s tense or nervous, this can easily lighten the mood.

4. Do your lighting carefully

Black and white portrait headshot

When it comes to lighting black and white portrait photography, there are no hard and fast rules. If you like high-contrast images with hard gradations in tone, then choose a harder source of light. If you like soft tones and subtler images, then you want a softer light source.

It’s all about personal preference, here. If you’re not sure what you like, search for black and white portraits on the internet. Find the first ten black and white portraits that stand out to you the most and see if you can deconstruct the lighting.

Then try to use those lighting techniques in your own images!

5. Add contrast with light

tips for black and white portrait photography

If you want to create high-contrast black and white portrait photos, the best advice is to add contrast with light, not Photoshop.

Small global adjustments are okay and won’t hurt your images, but definitely do not crank the Contrast slider to 100. Try to keep it between +15 and -15.

For local adjustments in post-processing, use a dodging and burning technique of your choice. The key point here, and in all post-production, is subtlety.

Ultimately, you can use contrast adjustments while editing. But strive to make the largest changes with your lighting setup!

6. You can’t save a bad image with black and white

If you’re working on an image that you feel isn’t up to scratch and you ask yourself if it might work in black and white, the answer is probably “No.”

A black and white treatment will often emphasize the flaws that made you question the image in the first place – and a bad photo is a bad photo, regardless of its color scheme (or lack thereof).

7. Choose black and white in spite of color

Certain subjects practically beg to be shot in black and white.

Other subjects may not be so obvious.

Bright, punchy hues make for vivid color photos. But by removing the color element, you can completely change how a subject or scene is perceived. When you want to ensure your viewer is focused on a particular element, color can become a distraction.

So try getting rid of it.

This can be a difficult concept to understand without seeing it in action, so I have included the color version of one of the black and white portrait photos above.

Look at the image, then ask yourself: How did my perception of the photo change? What did I notice first in each version of the image? Do I respond differently when I see the image in color versus black and white?

headshot with bold colors

Hopefully, you can see that even though bold colors can make for vivid images, so can a lack of color.

Black and white portrait photography: Conclusion

If you’re new to black and white portrait photography, do remember that these are guidelines, not rules.

So if you need to stray from my tips to get the result you’re after, do so without hesitation.

Finally, if you try black and white and you like it:

Welcome to the addiction!

Now it’s your turn:

Do you have any tips for black and white portraits that I missed? Do you have a favorite black and white portrait technique? Share your thoughts in the comments!

The post 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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How to Use a Snoot in Photography: The Complete Guide

15 Jan

The post How to Use a Snoot in Photography: The Complete Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

how to use a snoot in photography

What is a snoot in photography, and how can you use one for stunning photos?

That’s what this article is all about.

I’m going to take you through everything you need to know about snoots – including what they are, why they matter, and how you can use them to capture stunning images.

So if you’re ready to become a snoot expert…

…then let’s get started.

What is a snoot?

A snoot is basically a tube that goes over the front of your flash unit and creates a hard, concentrated beam of light.

a snoot and a snoot-shaped Rogue FlashBender
Two examples of snoots mounted to flashes.

A snoot allows you to light your main subject – without lighting the surrounding scene. And this can be great for dramatic, low key photography.

snoot in photography
A snoot is good for directing the light and creating low key images with lots of contrast.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 50mm f/1.2L | 1/20s | f/2 | ISO 400

Now, you can pick up a snoot from plenty of off-camera lighting manufacturers. (More on that in a moment!)

But because snoots are simple, you can actually make your own, which is what the next section is all about.

Making your own DIY snoot

You can make your own snoot using basic household objects. You just need to make a tube that fits over your flash!

There are some design elements you must consider, though. For instance, you’ll want a color-neutral material, because if your snoot includes intense colors, you might get unwanted casts in your photos.

Bearing this in mind, here are the two simplest options for creating snoots:

  • Cereal box: Cut the box into a rectangular prism with a hole at either end. Add black tape around the outside of the snoot to prevent light from leaking out.
  • Pringles tube: Cut a hole in one end of the Pringles tube for the flash to fit inside, making sure the tube sits straight on your flash (so you get a clear, directed beam of light).

In either case, you can modify the type of light the snoot creates by making the snoot longer or shorter.

Just remember:

The longer the snoot, the smaller and more concentrated your source of light will be.

Buying a snoot

The other option is to buy a snoot, and there are plenty of good snoots available for you to choose from.

Here’s a nice snoot you can grab at a great price.

That said, given how easy it is to make an effective snoot yourself, if you’re going to buy one, you may want it to have some sort of extra functionality.

That’s why I highly recommend the Rogue FlashBender, which can be used as a snoot, a reflector, or a softbox.

(In other words: You get your money’s worth!)

When to use a snoot in photography

A snoot can be a highly useful tool in the studio.

Broadly speaking, a snoot produces hard light, which creates lots of shadows. A snoot also creates lots of contrast between your subject and the background (assuming the background isn’t lit independently).

Let’s take a look at a few cases where you might want to use a snoot:

Spotlight

Have you ever used a flashlight on a dark night to light up your face in a spooky way?

If so, you’ve essentially spotlighted your face – and broadly speaking, you’re doing the same with a flash and snoot.

Now, you can go for that spooky effect with a snoot, but you can also direct your light in different ways for different spotlight effects. You can highlight various parts of your subject while keeping the background dark, which tends to look both stunning and dramatic.

Low key effect

Low key photography involves partially underexposing your shots for a mostly black image.

Like this:

low key snoot photography
This is an example of low key light produced by a snoot.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 135mm f/2L | 1/60s | f/5.6 | ISO 640

And a snoot is the perfect tool to create this type of image.

Simply direct your light at the main subject, whether that’s a still life or a model’s face. And ensure the light falls off before hitting the background for that dark, dramatic, low key look.

Rim light

You can use snoots to create beautiful rim lighting – which is any form of light that hits the edge of your subject.

And one of the most useful forms of rim lighting is the hair light.

By using a snoot to direct rim light (i.e., hair light) onto the back of a model’s head, you can add depth and interest to a photo, without impacting the front of the subject or the background.

For the best results, keep the rim light a little to the side and out of frame.

Of course, a rim light is only part of a lighting setup, so you’ll want to use it in conjunction with other lights. That way, you can capture a portrait like this one:

snoot for a rim light effect
A hair light helps create a better-quality portrait photo.
Canon 5D Mark III | Canon 135mm f/2L | 1/200s | f/3.2 | ISO 100

Flare

While photographers generally keep their off-camera lights out of the frame…

…there may be times when you want the lights to appear in your photos!

Specifically, you can use a snoot to create lens flare, as shown in the photo below:

snoot in photography to create lens flare
Snooted strobes can be used to create lens flare when pointed toward the camera.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 17-40mm f/4L | 42 seconds | f/5 | ISO 250

Now, you can create this artistic effect with several light modifiers (or just a naked flash).

But a snooted flash will help you control the light, so the source appears to be some sort of street light, rather than a flash unit.

How to use a snoot effectively

When using a snoot in photography, you’ll want to think about a few key factors, including:

  • The direction of the light
  • The distance of the flash
  • The length of the snoot
  • The brightness of the flash

These will dramatically impact how your photos turn out – so if you’re looking to really fine-tune your snoot photography, make sure you pay careful attention to the next few sections.

Direction of the light

Thinking about the direction of light is important in all forms of photography, but it is essential when working with a concentrated beam of light.

By positioning your snoot behind the subject, in front of the subject, or off to the side of the subject, you’ll get dramatically different results – so before taking a single shot, ask yourself:

What am I hoping to achieve with this snoot?

And position your snooted flash accordingly.

Distance of the flash

The distance from the flash to the main subject has three effects when used with a snoot:

First, the farther the flash is from the subject, the less bright the light becomes. If you position your light at the back of the room, you’ll get a darker image (though you can always adjust your exposure to compensate for the reduced light intensity).

Second, the farther the flash is from the subject, the harder the light becomes. If you’re looking for a softer effect with more gradual shadows, you’ll want to keep your snooted flash close to your subject – whereas if you’re after a harder effect with abrupt transitions from light to shadow, then you’ll need to increase the distance between the flash and the subject.

Third, as the distance between the flash and the main subject increases, the light radius becomes larger. This allows you to light more of your subject – so if you want to light your subject’s entire body, move the snooted flash back, whereas if you want to light only your subject’s head, you’ll need to move the flash in close.

Length of the snoot

Snoots can come in different lengths, with longer snoots offering a more concentrated beam of light, and shorter snoots producing wider lighting effects. Depending on the snoot length, you can create a precise spotlight effect, or you can widen the flash beam to light the entire scene.

Some snoots are actually adjustable, and if you make DIY snoots, you can create several of differing lengths.

Brightness of the flash

Of course, the brightness of the flash also needs to be considered.

You see, the light you’re creating with a snoot is going to be hard light. The subject will be lit, and the background will likely be dark.

But if you wish to show some background detail via ambient light, you can reduce the intensity of the flash and increase the exposure on your camera.

The key is to make sure the area lit by the flash is correctly exposed, then adjust your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO accordingly.

How will you use a snoot in photography?

smoke with direct strobe light
The smoke in this photo was picked up by directed light from a strobe.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 135mm f/2L | 1/200s | f/7.1 | ISO 160

Using a snoot in photography gives you plenty of artistic options.

A snoot is a simple, cheap, and effective way of doing something different with your photography.

So make sure you remember the tips and techniques I shared in this article…

…and start practicing with a snoot right away.

Have you tried photographing with a snoot? How did it go? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post How to Use a Snoot in Photography: The Complete Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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Long Exposure Fire Photography – 5 Tips for Beginners

11 Jan

The post Long Exposure Fire Photography – 5 Tips for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

long exposure fire photography tips

Do you want to capture stunning long exposure fire photography?

A long exposure photo can make flames look soft and feathery, capture spark trails, and create a romantic or cozy mood. 

The tips in this article will help you get started taking gorgeous long exposure fire photos, today!

Long exposure fire photography: 5 tips for beginners

A word of caution:

Be careful as you practice your fire photography. Fire can be dangerous, and it’s easy to be careless when thinking more about your photography than the fire. Maintaining a safe distance is important for you and your gear.

tips for long exposure fire photography
5s | f/10 | ISO 100

1. Use a slow shutter speed

To take a long exposure photo, the camera shutter needs to be open long enough to blur motion and light. Here are a couple of ways to ensure that the shutter stays open:

  • Shutter Priority mode: Here, you choose the shutter speed and your camera selects the aperture
  • Aperture Priority mode: Here, the camera chooses the shutter speed, but you can control its choice based on the aperture you select

Fire photography with Shutter Priority

Put your camera in Shutter Priority mode, choose your desired shutter speed, and let the camera do the rest.

This will force your camera to let in light for the amount of time you’ve chosen. Your camera will choose your ISO (if it’s set to Auto) and your aperture.

Shutter Priority will give you different results depending on how much light is available – and shooting this way can be a lot of fun.

When you choose a shutter speed of five or six seconds, you can capture interesting flame shapes and lots of spark trails. In fact, the bonfire and torch photos in this article were captured in Shutter Priority mode.

long exposure fire photo
6s | f/10 | ISO 100

Fire photography with Aperture Priority

You could also set your camera to Aperture Priority, choose a mid-range aperture (f/8-f/11), set a low ISO (100-200), and let your camera choose the shutter speed. If you’re shooting at night (when it’s really dark) and the fire is your main light source, your camera will choose a slow shutter speed. This should give you a photo with a large depth of field, and one that’s relatively free of grain (i.e., noise).

If Aperture Priority causes your shutter to be open for longer than you want, increase the ISO. This will decrease the shutter speed, though it will also start adding noise (fortunately, this can be reduced during editing). 

The card game and match photos in this article were shot using Aperture Priority mode.

long exposure flame photo
1s | f/11 | ISO 100

Anyway, those are just a couple of suggestions to get you started. Long exposure fire photography is all about playing around and having fun! Make sure to try lots of different apertures and shutter speeds. 

If you’re like me, you’ll get excited as you review each shot and see the interesting shapes you’ve captured.

2. Set your camera on a tripod

When capturing a long exposure fire photo, you’ll want to reduce camera shake, which results in blurry photos. 

Camera shake occurs when the camera moves while the shutter is open. Slow shutter speeds (of more than one second) make it impossible to handhold your camera and still get sharp images. 

But using a tripod will keep your camera steady – and therefore prevent camera shake plus the resulting blur.

3. Use a remote shutter release or set the self-timer

A remote shutter release (or the camera’s self-timer) can also help you cut down on camera shake. 

You see, when you press the shutter release, the camera moves slightly – and this can cause blur in your photos.

But when you use a remote shutter release (or you set your camera’s self-timer), you don’t have to worry about this movement.

Using a remote shutter release may seem like a small thing, but it can significantly affect your image sharpness.

long exposure fire spark trails
6s | f/6.3 | ISO 320
Spark trails.

Note that, when capturing match flames, a remote works best. While a self-timer will prevent camera shake, the delay makes it tough to capture that initial burst of flame with any real precision.

4. Choose your subject

Do you want your main focus to be the fire itself? Or are you trying to capture the mood created by the fire? 

When capturing the mood, it can be tricky to get sharp shots of people. It’s not easy for anyone to sit still during a long exposure, and movement will create blur in your photos.

So first identify your subject, and then adjust your camera settings to keep the subject sharp.

The following photos were shot in Aperture Priority mode with an aperture of f/8. For the first photo, I set the ISO to 100, and my camera chose a shutter speed of 5 seconds. That was too long for my daughter to stay still, so the photo turned out blurry.

long exposure fire photography tips
5s | f/8 | ISO 200

For the second photo, I set the ISO to 400, which cut the shutter speed in half (to 2.5 seconds). That made it easier for my subject to stay still, and the photo is sharper.

long exposure fire photography tips
2.5s | f/8 | ISO 400

5. Switch to manual focus

Autofocus doesn’t always work well in the dark. And autofocusing on a moving fire can be tough.

That’s where manual focus comes in.

Now, you don’t need to turn off your autofocus immediately. Instead, try autofocusing on something near the fire, then switch to manual focus to capture the shot you’re after.

How do you do this?

First, shine your flashlight on an object near the fire. Train your camera on the object, and press the shutter button halfway. When the autofocus locks on, turn off the flashlight and switch to manual focus.

Finally, without adjusting anything on the camera, take your shot. Your camera will maintain the same focus point – and you’ll end up with a sharp photo.

Note: You could also try back button focus!

Where will you practice?

Do you enjoy a cozy fire at your campsite or bonfires on the beach? Do you like candle-lit dinners? What about backyard marshmallow roasts? All of these would be great places to practice long exposure fire photography.

long exposure bonfire
6s | f/5.6 | ISO 160

Experimenting with long exposures around a campfire can be a little addictive. The more you practice, the more fun you’ll have.

And don’t forget your flashlight! You’ll need it to see your camera controls, to help with focusing, and to get you safely back to your car.

long exposure fire photography tips
5s | f/16 | ISO 100

Now over to you:

Do you enjoy creating long exposures of fire? Share your tips and photos by commenting down below!

The post Long Exposure Fire Photography – 5 Tips for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.


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How These 5 Photography Quotes Can Impact Your Photographic Practice

07 Jan

The post How These 5 Photography Quotes Can Impact Your Photographic Practice appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

inspirational photography quotes

Techniques, theory, approaches, and equipment; there are many items that feed into the art of making successful images. Luckily, we have the authority of countless photographers to guide us!

In this article, we’ll look at five photography quotes and the insights we can glean from them.

photography quotes quotation marks

1. No place is boring, if you’ve had a good night’s sleep and have a pocket full of unexposed film – Robert Adams

photography quotes roll of 35mm film
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon 50mm f/1.8 with extension tubes | 1/20s | f/2 | ISO 200

Robert Adams finds interest in the seemingly mundane. He shines a thoughtful light on the vastness of the wilderness and the hum of human expansion.

However, as Adams argues in one of his better-known photography quotes: It isn’t just a pocket of unexposed film that staves off boredom, but a night of quality sleep.

This is good advice for those of us who often burn the candle at both ends.

2. The camera is an excuse to be someplace you otherwise don’t belong – Susan Meiselas

The second of our five photography quotes comes from Susan Meiselas. Seeing into the veneer of everyday life, photographers such as Meiselas use the camera as a tool to investigate, motivate, question, connect, and share. The camera acts as a passport, as well as a reason to explore and push boundaries.

Today, a generalized knowledge of photographic technology means that most people are aware of a camera’s appearance and function. Nevertheless, those witnessing a photographer in action will frequently respond with interest or curiosity. With a camera in hand, a photographer is often viewed as a person guided by artistic and technical authority.

This gives photographers an entry point into the inner workings of an environment and its inhabitants.

3. Photography is a language more universal than words – Minor White

Photography quotes abstraction black and white
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L | 1/100s | f/4 | ISO 100

Minor White sought to make images that stood as “a record of something in front of the camera and simultaneously a spontaneous symbol…A photograph of the bark of a tree, for example, may suddenly touch off a corresponding feeling of roughness of character within an individual.”

Photographs, as we know, have many layers of meaning. With a conscientious approach to composition and execution, photographers can start a dialogue that transcends the boundaries of language.

In referring to the universality of photographic language, White encourages you to carefully consider the many ways in which a subject can be photographed. This hopefully prompts you to capture the subject with a deliberateness and mastery that goes beyond words.

4. Taking pictures is like tiptoeing into the kitchen late at night and stealing Oreo cookies – Diane Arbus

You’ve probably experienced the thrill of sneaking tasty morsels from the kitchen at a late hour: the anticipation, the apprehension, and then the reward.

But Arbus’s quote isn’t just about stealing food and photos; it’s about the driving force behind photography. Why does photography matter? What makes photography so compelling in the first place? And what makes us keep coming back for more?

Establishing why a photographer does what they do can be tricky. There are many different reasons a photographer might take up a camera.

Nevertheless, developing a good grasp of the motivations that spur on your own photography can help you find direction, especially in the event of a creative block.

5. Searching is everything – going beyond what you know. And the test of the search is really in the things themselves, the things you seek to understand. What is important is not what you think about them, but how they enlarge you – Wynn Bullock

abstract camera movement black and white
Photography is often about the journey as much as it is about the results.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L | 1/20s | f/4.0 | ISO 200

It was during a tour in Europe during the mid-1920s that singer Wynn Bullock first encountered the artworks of Man Ray and László Moholy-Nagy. Recognizing photography as a powerful vehicle for creativity, Bullock bought a box camera and began taking pictures himself.

Interested in art as well as psychology, physics, and philosophy, Bullock constantly sought to build on his own photographic practice. Many of Bullock’s photography quotes emphasize personal growth, affirming the need for deliberation and mindfulness.

Encouraging photographers to absorb as much as possible from every photographic subject and experience, Bullock’s words instill a sense of constructive curiosity in photographers that expands personal practice and furthers the medium overall.

Conclusion

There are so many photography quotes that have been recorded throughout history that it’s nearly impossible to list them all.

Nevertheless, reading and absorbing the advice uttered by pioneering photographers can help you understand the minds that helped shape the trajectory of photography!

Now over to you:

Do you have a favorite photography quote? Share it in the comments below!

The post How These 5 Photography Quotes Can Impact Your Photographic Practice appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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How to Use Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography

03 Jan

The post How to Use Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Francesco Gola.

graduated neutral density filters landscape photography

If you want to create stunning landscape photos without significant post-processing, then you need a graduated neutral density filter.

But why are GND filters so important? What do they do? And how do you use them?

That’s what this article is all about.

So if you’re ready to discover how you can capture beautiful landscape images with GND filters, let’s get started!

Dynamic range

Since the camera was invented, we have tried to copy one of the greatest wonders of our body: the human eye. Unfortunately, while it’s been nearly 200 years since we first captured light with the camera, we are still far from overcoming Mother Nature.

Why?

Because the eye sees much better than the camera.

beautiful lighthouse at sunset

The parameter that describes this behavior is called dynamic range. It basically defines the difference between the minimum and maximum value of brightness that a device (like your eye or the sensor of your camera) is able to record. From a practical perspective, dynamic range defines the ability of your camera to see details in very dark areas and very bright areas of a scene.

If you’re wondering how much more your eye sees compared to your camera, the answer is staggering. Your eye can see about twice as much dynamic range as older cameras (though camera technology has come a long way in recent years!).

long exposure seascape

The problem

Thanks to the eye’s massive dynamic range, when you look at a marvelous sunset, you’re able to see all the details in the scene (in both the sky and the land).

But as soon as you try to capture the scene with your camera, you’ll get an overexposed sky or an underexposed foreground. The dynamic range of your camera is limited, and can therefore capture detail in only one of these areas, so you have to choose.

Given that limitation, how can we hope to shoot a beautiful sunset or a wonderful sunrise and capture all the marvelous details, both in the sky and on the land?

There are different methods to overcome this problem, but my favorite is the use of graduated neutral density filters (also known as GNDs).

stormy seascape

What is a graduated neutral density filter?

A graduated neutral density filter is a piece of glass made up of two distinct parts:

A completely transparent area, and a darker section.

Now, by positioning the darkest part of the filter to correspond with the brightest portion of the scene you’re photographing, you can reduce the exposure difference (dynamic range) in the frame.

In other words, by positioning the dark part of a graduated neutral density filter over a bright sky, you can reduce the difference in brightness between the sky and the land for a much more even exposure.

To reduce the exposure difference is to reduce the dynamic range of the scene – so your camera can simultaneously capture detail in both bright and dark areas of the scene. GND filters are like sunglasses for your camera – except that the sunglasses are only applied to a portion of the image, rather than the entire shot.

Types of graduated neutral density filters

Graduated neutral density filters are typically distinguished by the type of transition between the transparent and dark areas of the filter. There are three main families of GNDs:

  1. Hard-edge filters are characterized by a clear boundary between the transparent and dark areas. You use a hard-edge GND when the separation between the bright and dark areas of your scene is very defined, such as when photographing a seascape with a flat horizon.
  2. Soft-edge filters are characterized by a soft transition (they change from light to dark more gradually), and are therefore used when the transition between light and dark areas is less distinct. A classic example is a mountainous scene, where the mountains intersect with the sky.
  3. Reverse filters are nothing more than hard-edge GNDs with a dark area that fades away as you move from the line of separation to the upper border of the filter (so the filter is darker in the middle than on the edge). Reverse GNDs were invented to better manage sunrises and sunsets, where the light is more intense on the horizon line (in the middle of the scene). If you love seascapes (like me!), this filter will be your best friend forever.
beach and castle at sunset

Another difference between filters is the material. Higher-quality filters are made of optical glass. Putting an inexpensive resin filter in front of a lens worth hundreds (or thousands) of dollars is not a great idea.

Finally, GND filters are distinguished by their ability to block light. In other words, how dark are they at their most extreme?

In landscape photography, you generally need one to four stops of darkness during sunrise and sunset, depending on the weather conditions. This is the reason why most filters on the market offer these gradations.

You can shop for graduated neutral density filters on Amazon or at B&H Photo Video (they ship worldwide).

How to use a GND filter in the field

Using graduated neutral density filters in the field is very simple.

First, try to take exposure readings off the darkest and brightest areas of the scene (usually the foreground and the sky, respectively). The difference in exposure will indicate the intensity of the filter you’ll need.

For instance, if the meter reading for the sky is 1/250s and the meter reading for the foreground is 1/30s, then the difference between those readings is three stops (1/250s > 1/125s > 1/60s > 1/30s), so to balance the exposure you should use a 0.9 (3-stop) GND.

At this point, just mount the filter with its dark side over the brightest part of the scene. This is why a GND screw-in filter doesn’t make sense. You would not be able to align the transition area with the scene, whereas a drop-in filter lets you position the transition area perfectly.

sea stacks long exposure GND filter

To avoid holding the filter with your hands, you can buy a filter holder. Once the holder is mounted in front of your lens, it will hold your filters in place. (Note that you can stack multiple filters this way.)

There are many nice holders on the market, but the best one (in my opinion) is the V6 Holder by NiSi filters. It’s the only filter holder that lets you simultaneously install three different filters and a polarizer without any vignetting issues (plus, it works as wide as 16mm on full-frame cameras).

Graduated neutral density filters in landscape photography: Conclusion

Without graduated neutral density filters, capturing sunrise and sunset scenes will be hard – and sometimes impossible.

That’s why I recommend you always have at least one GND in your bag.

And the limited dynamic range of your camera will just be a bad memory!

How to Use Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography

The post How to Use Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Francesco Gola.


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dPS Top Nature and Wildlife Photography Tips of 2020

31 Dec

The post dPS Top Nature and Wildlife Photography Tips of 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

top nature and wildlife photography tips of 2020

Do you want to improve your nature and wildlife photography, fast?

Then take a look at our best nature and wildlife photography tips from 2020. They’re packed full of helpful advice, all designed to help you capture stunning photos!

Starting with our most popular nature photography article of the year:

1. 5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

5 Camera Settings Every Bird Photographer Should Know

2. 10 Must-Use Bird Photography Camera Settings for Beginners

10 Must-Use Bird Photography Camera Settings for Beginners

3. How to Take Vibrant, Razor-Sharp Macro Photos of Flowers

How to Take Vibrant, Razor-Sharp Macro Photos of Flowers

4. Tips for Doing a Backyard Photo Safari

Tips for Doing a Backyard Photo Safari

5. Macro Photography for Beginners

Macro Photography for Beginners

6. 10 Incredible Bird Photography Tips for Beginners

10 Incredible Bird Photography Tips for Beginners

7. Photographing on Your Home Patch and Why You Need One

Photographing on Your Home Patch and Why You Need One

8. How to Choose the Best Lens for Wildlife Photography

How to Choose the Best Lens for Wildlife Photography

9. How to Photograph Beautiful Winter Snowdrops (or Other Flowers)

How to Photograph Beautiful Winter Snowdrops (or Other Flowers)

10. Nature and Wildlife Photography Tips for Beginners

Nature and Wildlife Photography Tips for Beginners

11. 10 Ideas for Photographing Nature in Your Backyard

10 Ideas for Photographing Nature in your Backyard

12. How to Photograph Sun Flares: 14 Tips for Beginners

How to Photograph Sun Flares: 14 Tips for Beginners

13. 10 Tips for Improving Your Wildlife Photography

10 Tips for Improving Your Wildlife Photography

14. 6 Tips for Near-Macro Photography With a Telephoto Lens

6 Tips for Near-Macro Photography with a Telephoto Lens

15. Tips for Photographing Birds in Flight

Tips for Photographing Birds in Flight

Conclusion

I hope you’ve enjoyed these nature and wildlife photography tips!

And if you want to keep improving your photos, make sure you subscribe to the dPS newsletter. We’ll send you weekly tips, tricks, and techniques – so that you can take your photos to the next level as quickly as possible!

The post dPS Top Nature and Wildlife Photography Tips of 2020 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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