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Posts Tagged ‘More’

Snapchat launches more realistic AR face masks for iPhone X users

07 Apr

It looks like more and more third party developers are starting to make use of the iPhone X’s TrueDepth front camera that was originally implemented on the device for Apple’s FaceID unlocking feature. Yesterday, Bellus3D launched a 3D face scanning app for the iPhone X. Today, Snapchat has delivered an update to its iOS app which lets iPhone X users decorate their selfie images with augmented reality masks that take advantage of Apple’s advanced facial mapping technology.

Apple’s TrueDepth front camera will help the masks more realistically superimpose onto the user’s face, and face motion will be tracked more precisely than for Snapchat users with other mobile devices. To start with, there are three Snapchat lenses that utilize the TrueDepth technology: a Mardi Gras-style mask, a Day of the Dead skull, and a gold-plated eye cover. More masks are expected to be made available in the near future.

The TrueDepth camera also allows for DSLR-style blurring of the background, and more accurate application of small details and 3D objects that reflect and react to ambient light in the image.

If you happen to own the iPhone X, let us know in the comments how the new feature works for you. With similar technologies being adopted by other smartphone makers, we’d hope the new Snapchat masks make it to Android devices (at least high-end ones) in the nearer future as well. Snapchat for iOS can be downloaded free of charge from the App Store.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Gnarbox 2.0 SSD lets you backup photos, make selects, review footage and more

03 Apr

If you’re looking to seriously speed up your on-location photo and video workflow without carrying around a laptop, the new Gnarbox 2.0 SSD should probably be at the top of your gear wishlist.

Debuted earlier through crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, Gnarbox 2.0 SSD allows you to backup your photos and video in the field, review and rough-cut footage, cull and edit images, showcase selects, and seamlessly transition all of this into your professional workflow once you’re back in the studio.

Gnarbox does so much it’s kind of hard to describe, but the video above and Gnarbox’s own description from the Kickstarter campaign below do a pretty good job.

GNARBOX 2.0 SSD is a rugged backup device for content creators who prefer to travel without a laptop. Unlike other portable hard drives, we have assembled an ecosystem of mobile applications that serve the professional workflow from the field to the studio.

With single-step backup, dedicated workspaces for photographers and videographers, and integrated access to professional editing software, GNARBOX will save you time and make you a more reliable creator.

The Gnarbox 1.0—which we actually recommended in last year’s holiday gift guide—provided a compelling solution for photographers and videographers who do a lot of work on-location. And everything 1.0 could do, the Gnarbox 2.0 SSD can do better and faster.

Inside the newest build you’ll find a 2.4 GHz Intel Quad Core processor, 4GB of RAM, and up to 1TB of NVMe SSD storage; photos and video can be uploaded to the device using either the SD card slot or one of the two USB-C ports; and the whole thing is powered by a replaceable battery that promises enough juice to back up 36,000 photos, review up to 10 hours of 4K video, and transfer one full TB of data.

All of that hardware works together with a set of dedicated apps—Safekeep, Selects, Sequence, and Showcase—that allow this little computer-in-a-box to do all of the things mentioned above.

  • Safekeep: The most complete field backup experience, with tailored file/folder organization and sleek tools to manage file transfers across your devices.
  • Selects: Provides super-fast RAW image preview and easy-to-use tools to mark your selects, manage metadata, and save time preparing your shots for edit.
  • Sequence: Has the tools you need to review footage, start rough cuts in the field, and seamlessly transition your video project to the studio.
  • Showcase: Lets you view your photos and videos in high resolution on any HDMI-enabled screen.

Here’s a closer look at the new Gnarbox 2.0:

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As we said at the top, this is a pretty compelling solution for on-location photographers and videographers who don’t want to carry a laptop. And apparently, we’re not the only ones who think so: it only took 39 minutes for the new Gnarbox 2.0 to breeze past its Kickstarter funding goal.

As of this writing, with 59 days to go, the company has already raised nearly $ 200,000, which makes us pretty confident they’ll deliver product come December.

To learn more about the Gnarbox 2.0 SSD or order one for yourself—pledges start at $ 300 for a 128GB version and max out at $ 700 for the largest 1TB build—head over to the Kickstarter campaign. If you’re quick, you might even snag one of the very last Early Bird deals still available when we hit Publish.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Instagram updates news feed, makes it a bit more chronological

24 Mar

Yesterday, Instagram announced some changes to the News Feed that might quiet some of the grumbling that’s been going on ever since the app switched from a Chronological to an Algorithmic feed. No, the rumors were not true and the company is not going back to the chronological feed in full, but your Instagram feed will begin surfacing newer posts closer to the top of your feed from now on.

The announcement comes less than a week after Instagram was forced to debunk a viral rumor that it was testing a return to the Chronological feed. But it seems that rumor might have contained a grain of truth.

Yesterday’s update is actually two-fold. First, newer posts are now “more likely to appear first in feed” so you don’t have to scroll through a bunch of posts from several days ago in order to see images that were posted this morning. And Second, the feed will no longer update automatically; instead, Instagram is testing a “New Posts” button that allows you to manually refresh the feed only when you’re ready.

The latter change is a response to feedback that “it can feel unexpected when your feed refreshes and automatically bumps you to the top.” I can personally relate to this annoyance, and I’m sure some of our readers can, too.

Profile names and hashtags are now clickable in your Instagram bio.

Finally, right before this announcement went live, Instagram also revealed that it would now allow users to link hashtags and profile links in their bio. So if you add your professional photo profile to your personal bio or visa-versa, that @-name will now be clickable. Same goes for hashtags.

Adding a level of security to this, whenever you link someone’s profile in your bio, their account will receive a notification, and they can choose to remove the link.

All of these changes are rolling out now, although the News Feed changes still in the ‘testing’ phase. To take advantage of the updates yourself, just make sure you’re using the latest version of Instagram on either iOS or Android.

Press Release

Changes to Improve Your Instagram Feed

Today we’re introducing changes to give you more control over your feed and ensure the posts you see are timely.

We’ve heard it can feel unexpected when your feed refreshes and automatically bumps you to the top. So today we’re testing a “New Posts” button that lets you choose when you want to refresh, rather than it happening automatically. Tap the button and you’ll be taken to new posts at the top of feed — don’t tap, and you’ll stay where you are. We hope this makes browsing Instagram much more enjoyable.

Based on your feedback, we’re also making changes to ensure that newer posts are more likely to appear first in feed. With these changes, your feed will feel more fresh, and you won’t miss the moments you care about. So if your best friend shares a selfie from her vacation in Australia, it will be waiting for you when you wake up.

Over the next few months, we’ll be sharing more about improvements we’re making to feed. Our goal is to be the best place to share and connect with the people and interests that matter most to you.


Introducing Hashtag and Profile Links in Bio

Today, we’re introducing hashtag and profile links in bio, a new way to express yourself and the things you care about. Now when you include a # or @ in your bio, they become live links that lead to a hashtag page or another profile.

In December, we introduced the ability to follow hashtags, giving you new ways to stay connected with the interests, hobbies, passions and communities you care about. With hashtag and profile links in your bio, you can express yourself and your interests right in your profile. Whether you’re a #guitarlover, into #pencilsketching or have a #makeuptutorial account, now you can link to any hashtag or profile you want.

To add a hashtag or profile link in your bio, just tap on Edit Profile and go to the bio section. When you type a # or @, you will see a list of recommended hashtags and accounts in the typeahead. Once you select the hashtags and accounts you want, they will automatically be linked in your bio.

When you mention someone else’s profile in your bio, they will receive a notification and can choose to remove the link to their profile. Their profile will remain in your bio but without a link.

Instagram has always been a place for self-expression, and now there are even more ways to express yourself and your interests. To learn more, check out the Help Center.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Report: Agfa Vista film is no more, stock drying up world-wide

13 Mar

According to a report by Japan Camera Hunter, Agfa Vista color negative film is no longer being produced. The site says the information—which has been rumored for a few months—has now been confirmed by ‘reliable industry sources,’ and that supplies are drying up around the world.

The film has become popular for its low cost and punchy colors, but obviously not popular enough for it to remain in production.

Since the demise of AgfaPhoto GmbH in 2005, the film was distributed by Lupus Imaging and Media, a marketing company that bought the rights to use the Agfa name on a range of items from film to memory sticks. At first, the company slit the remaining stock from Agfa’s factory in Leverkusen, but in more recent times it is widely believed Fujifilm was the manufacturer of the Vista films.

Japan Camera Hunter’s dramatised Death of Vista illustration.

Agfa was one of the very early experimenters with color photography, bringing a color emulsion to the market shortly after Kodak introduced Kodachrome. Agfacolor Neu was much easier to process, however, as it needed only one pass through the chemistry to develop all three colors.

Rolls of Agfa Vista in both ISO 200 and 400 varieties are still available from specialist stores and even Amazon UK, so panic buying hasn’t quite taken hold yet. But JCH doesn’t expect stock to last too long.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Major ON1 Photo RAW update adds tethered shooting, better noise reduction and more

10 Mar

ON1 just released a major update to its photo editing software ON1 Photo RAW. The update, version 2018.1, brings with it a host of feature upgrades, including: better auto-alignment for the HDR mode, improved high ISO noise reduction, and more detailed image sharpening. The update also includes a new tethered shooting function for certain Nikon and Canon DSLRs, as well as a new import utility that allows metadata to be added as images are sucked in from the camera.

Video files can now be seen in the browser, and new sort features allows user to browse imported images in a number of ways, such as by file type, date, file name or rating. Users can also batch rename groups of images, and a date-and-time editing function lets you adjust the recorded moment an image was shot.

Finally, the company has also made some changes to the way images are debayered to improve the amount of micro detail preserved in the final render.

ON1 says its priorities are image quality and processing/handling performance:

“Version 2018.1 isn’t just about the new features, although there are many powerful new additions,” says ON1 Director of Product Dan Harlacher. “Image quality and performance are the top priorities in every update, and we are very excited for our customers to experience these improvements for themselves in this update.”

New users can take advantage of a free trial, or purchase the software in its entirely (usually $ 120) for a special limited-time price of $ 80. If you’re already using Photo Raw 2018, the new version is free.

For more information, visit the ON1 website.

Press Release

ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 – New Update Available

Portland, OR – March 1, 2018 – ON1, Inc. is pleased to announce the immediate availability of the new ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1, the first major free update to Photo RAW 2018. Version 2018.1 includes image quality enhancements, performance improvements, and key features to optimize the photographer’s workflow.

“Version 2018.1 isn’t just about the new features, although there are many powerful new additions. We’ve been very focused on image quality and the results customers get from using ON1 Photo RAW. Image quality and performance are the top priorities in every update, and we are very excited for our customers to experience these improvements for themselves in this update,” says Dan Harlacher, Director of Product at ON1.

New Improvements

  • Debayering – The algorithms have been improved to increase the amount of micro detail while reducing aliasing, yielding photos that are noticeably crisper with less color artifacts.
  • HDR – HDR alignment and deghosting have improved, yielding sharper results with less ghosting, noise, and color fringe. Users now have the ability to select which frame is used for deghosting and can also adjust the amount of motion visible in water and clouds.
  • Faster Cataloging – The thumbnail and preview generation of images is now faster. Searching photos has also been improved.
  • Noise Reduction – Improvements to reduce large noise from very high ISOs. Automatic hot-pixel removal has been added, and green and purple color aberration reduction has improved.
  • Sharpening – The sharpening algorithms have been improved to enhance micro details and provide sharper initial results.
  • Panorama – The panorama merge dialog now does a better job with vertical panoramas as well as really large ones. It can now stitch together up to 25 photos at a time. Blending of photos to compensate for differences in exposure and white balance have been improved.
  • Preview Quality – The preview window has been improved to more accurately reflect the details and sharpness in photos at different zoom levels.

New Features

  • Import – Get photos from your camera to your computer, choose where you want the photos to go, assign metadata, and more.
  • Tethered Shooting – Get your photos to your computer instantly and apply import settings. Currently supports Canon and Nikon.
  • Soft Proofing – Simulate what your photo will look like when it’s printed.
  • Metadata Templates – Add metadata to a group of photos using presets. This allows you to choose and save only the information you want applied to your photos.
  • Video Browsing & Organizing – Now supports viewing video files so you can organize those as well. Copy, move, name, add metadata, and more.
  • Custom Sorting – This option in Browse allows you to put your photos in any order you choose.
  • Batch Rename – Rename all of your photos in a batch to add unique information to filenames.
  • Edit Capture Date – Adjust date and time on your photos so they match the actual date and time they were taken.
  • Auto Advance – Automatically switch to the next photo during the culling process when rating or tagging photos.
  • Additional Camera & Lens Support — Added support for several new cameras and many new lenses. See the full list here.

About ON1 Photo RAW

ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 is the only photo editor designed by photographers for photographers. ON1’s unique community-driven development approach via The Photo RAW Project gives customers a voice in how it’s designed, allowing users to submit ideas and vote on new features. With fast photo management, hundreds of customizable photo effects, powerful masking tools, HDR, panos, layers, and other Lightroom and Photoshop-like features, Photo RAW 2018.1 is the ultimate all-in-one photo editor and raw processor with no subscription.

Craig Keudell, CEO of ON1 says “Our vision for Photo RAW has always been that it would the fastest, most flexible, and easiest-to-use raw processor and photo editor on the market. A single photography centric photo editor with powerful Lightroom® and Photoshop®-like features photographers can own and enjoy for many years. Photo RAW has come a long way in a short time and we are both excited and very busy building new exciting technologies for our next update.”

ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 isn’t just for raw files. Supported file formats include JPEG, TIF, PSD, PSB, PNG, and DNG are supported and benefit from the speed, performance, and abundance of editing tools in the app. Photo RAW 2018.1 continues to work seamlessly within current photography workflows. The app integrates as a plug-in for Adobe® Lightroom® Classic CC and Photoshop® CC and further builds its case as a complete standalone photo editor or alternative to the Adobe Photography Plan. Version 2018.1 also integrates with the major cloud services to allow for uploading, managing, and editing photos across multiple computers. This allows users to sync photos and their edits across multiple computers or in a studio setting.

Price and Availability

ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 is available now for an introductory price of $ 79.99 for a limited time (Reg: $ 119.99). A free and fully functional 30-day trial is also available on the ON1 website. A single purchase of ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 will include both Mac and Windows installers and activation for up to five computers. It comes with a 30-day money-back guarantee, world-class customer support, hundreds of free video tutorials, and free ON1 Loyalty Rewards every month.

For More Information

* ON1 Photo RAW 2018.1 Introductory Special
* Free 30-Day Trial
* The Photo RAW Project
* About ON1

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Halide update adds ‘blazing fast portrait mode,’ depth maps and more to the iOS app

10 Mar

Halide—the feature-rich third-party camera app for the iPhone—just released version 1.7 which adds support for the dual-camera setups of the iPhones 7 Plus, 8 Plus, and X, using the two lenses to “see” in three dimensions.

When shooting a photo, you can now apply a background-blurring portrait effect or darken the background, similar to Apple’s ‘Portrait Lighting’ effect. But this isn’t just Apple’s portrait mode pasted into Halide, the app allegedly does it better:

In an App Store first, Halide’s Portrait mode uses a combination of smart facial detection and point-of-interest detection to allow Portrait mode with zero waiting; users can snap a shot at any time to get beautiful background blur effects on a subject.

Additionally, the app is capable of storing the actual depth map as a separate .png-file for later fine-tuning of the results in an image processor, and a new ‘Augmented Reality Depth Photo Viewer allows you to “place Depth-Enabled captures like images shot with Portrait Mode in AR.”

Once placed into 3D space, you can walk around and through the captured scene and ‘explore’ your depth map. It’s gimmicky… but actually really cool:

Halide 1.7 is already available to purchase on iTunes for $ 3. To learn more about the app’s new depth mapping feature set, head over to the Halide blog. And if you’re curious about Halide in general, you can read our hands-on of the app’s launch version here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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A Quick Guide to Using Bounce Flash for More Natural-Looking Photos

09 Mar

Creating a portrait using flash is a whole lot more than just pointing your flash at your subject and taking the shot. Learning how to use flash creatively opens up a variety of new lighting options – which you can use to make the picture you envision in your head show up on your camera’s LCD screen. In this article, we’re going to look at using bounce flash.

Bounce flash is a handy trick you can use in a pinch to improve both the quality and amount of light in your finished picture using a flash unit right on top of your camera.

A photo taken using bounce flash to light the subject

The soft lighting for this image was created using a single flash, positioned on the camera and pointed directly up at the ceiling.

What is bounce flash?

Bounce flash is exactly what it sounds like. You aim the flash unit on your camera at a ceiling or nearby wall so that the light reflects off it and then back towards your subject.

This may seem like a really roundabout way of providing illumination, but there are a number of excellent reasons why you would want to bounce your flash, such as:

  • It quickly creates soft light.
  • It can be used to create directional light.
  • Helps you avoid the drawbacks of direct flash.

Let’s go through each of these points in more detail to get a better sense of how to use bounce flash to improve your photography.

Left: On-camera flash rotated to bounce off a wall to the side. Right: Built-in flash that cannot be rotated or bounced.

1. How does bounce flash create soft light?

One of the most important factors in determining how soft the light in your image will be is the apparent size of the light source. Notice I said “apparent size” – not “actual size”.

Your pop-up flash or attached speedlight are small light sources – so if you aim them directly at your subject you get harsh lighting. This is why photographers often use softboxes, umbrellas or other modifiers to create a larger source of light – which makes the light softer.

You can use this same concept to quickly create a larger apparent light source by bouncing your flash off a roof or wall and spreading out the light.

Direct flash is that which is aimed right at the subject.

Direct flash – not flattering to the subject and creates a harsh shadow on the wall behind.

Flash aimed at the ceiling to bounce the light and soften it.

Flash bounced off the ceiling – much more even and softer lighting.

2. How can bounce flash create directional light?

Understanding the direction from which the light is coming – and using that to your advantage – can have a huge impact on the quality of your photos.

Without flash, you’re at the mercy of whatever ambient lighting is available. When you are indoors in a dimly lit room, that ambient light is often rather unpleasant as the light usually comes from the ceiling overhead. This casts deep and dark shadows under people’s eyes – not at all a flattering look for a portrait.

By setting up near a wall, you can bounce your flash off it and effectively create a new light source that sweeps in from the side. Think of it as creating a new window to add more light to the scene. This new light will fill in those ugly shadows for a much more pleasing look.


The result of the flash being bounced off the wall to camera left is more directional light as seen here.

3. How does bounce flash improve on direct flash?

Sometimes a direct flash can significantly improve an image. Sometimes it results in redeye, awkward shadows, and a deer-in-headlights look.

Using bounce flash solves the red-eye problem since that is caused by light reflected directly back at the camera from the back of the eyeball. When your main light is bouncing in from overhead or from the side, you can also say goodbye to large shadows cast by your subject onto the background.

Lastly, direct flash creates boring lighting that flattens facial features and textures. Bounce flash results in more sculpted light that can be used to accentuate features and show depth.

Example of a photo taken using direct flash as the key light

This portrait was taken with direct flash, causing a harsh shadow on the back wall and a bad case of red-eye (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

Example of photo taken without using any flash, high ISO

Without using flash, I had to bump the ISO up to 6400 in order to keep the right exposure. The colors are dull and there is a lot of noise in the shot (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 6400)

Example of a photo taken with bounce flash

With bounce flash, the light on the model is soft and even. There is a glimmer of catch-light in the subject’s eyes and no shadow on the back wall. (Settings: 1/80th, f/3.2, ISO 500)

What do you need to get started with bounce flash?

In order to shoot bounce flash, the bare minimum you will need is an external flash unit with a head that can swivel and tilt.

If you are planning on buying a new flash, make sure to research how it can be maneuvered. Some cheaper models will provide more flash power than your standard in-camera pop-up flash, but if they can’t be adjusted to tilt and swivel then you won’t be able to use them for bounce flash lighting.

Get a flash that can both rotate (swivel) and tilt (up and down) in order to do bounce flash.

Balancing the light

When shooting with flash in a bright room, you need to perform a balancing act in order to keep the light looking natural. This is the case with bounce flash as well.

A flash picture essentially has two exposures:

  1. The ambient, or available light, which is all the light from windows, light bulbs, candles, chandeliers, etc.
  2. The light from your flash.

As the photographer, you need to balance these two exposures to create the image you want. Fortunately, this doesn’t mean that you need to go around flicking light switches until you get the exact amount of brightness needed for each shot – your camera settings can control how much light will be in the final shot.

In this image, the flash is too strong and the exposure is not well-balanced with the ambient light in the room. Exposure here was: 1/125th, f/4, ISO 250, flash was ETTL with +2 Flash Exposure Compensation.

Aperture:

Opening up the aperture will allow more light in, effectively increasing the flash power and also making the camera pick up more of the ambient light

ISO:

Increasing your ISO means the sensor “collects” more light. Again, this effectively increases the power from your flash as well as the influence of the ambient light.

Shutter Speed:

Here’s where a lot of control comes in. As long as you stay within your camera’s maximum sync-speed, your flash will influence the final shot regardless of the shutter speed. On the other hand, a long shutter speed will collect a lot of ambient light, and a short shutter speed will collect less, often drastically affecting the final image.

It may take some time to get used to this balancing act with aperture, ISO, and shutter speed so that your bounce flash shots give you well-lit subjects with natural-looking lighting.

The inside of a car, lit by bounce flash

Firing a flash into the roof of the car creates soft, bounced light that really makes all the surface details shine.

Other details to keep in mind

Flash Power

Since the light from your flash has to travel the extra distance to bounce off a wall or ceiling before reaching the subject, you can’t use your camera’s ETTL metering as is to determine the amount of power needed. Your camera assumes that you are using direct flash, so if you don’t make any adjustments, the flash power will always be a bit too low.

Increase your camera’s flash exposure compensation depending on the distance to the surface you are using to bounce the light. For a typical ceiling in a home, this might be an adjustment of +1/3 or +2/3. If you are photographing in a hall with high ceilings, you may need to boost your flash by +1 or even more.

A young man photographed using bounce flash

A seamless background and soft light from bouncing the flash off a slanted ceiling gives this picture the type of quality you might expect from multiple flashes and a studio setup.

Color

Important question: What color is going to be reflected back at you if you shoot a flash into a pink wall?

Yup, you guessed it – it’s gonna be pink. The light from your flash is going to take on whatever color it bounces off. So unless you’re going for that funky, unnatural pink look, you’ll want to make sure you bounce your flash off neutral-color surfaces like whites, grays or blacks. (Alternatively, you can shoot or convert to black and white.)

Don’t blind people!

As you start to discover how fun it is to swivel your flash around and create dramatic and interesting light, it can be easy to forget where your flash is pointed. If an unfortunate passerby steps between the wall and your flash just as you fire off a shot, they might get an unwelcome blast of light. It’s a good idea to check and make sure the coast is clear before snapping each shot.

Give it a shot!

Bounce flash is a handy trick in your arsenal to help you land that perfect shot when the situation allows for it. So tilt your flash up and give it a try!

The post A Quick Guide to Using Bounce Flash for More Natural-Looking Photos by Frank Myrland appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Show More with Your Photographs by Thinking Outside the Frame

19 Feb

In its simplest form, a photograph is a representation of a very limited part of space at a very limited point in time. This article is about choosing which tiny bit of reality to represent and how that choice can make a photograph into much more than just a record of time.

01 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The most obvious elements of any photograph are the subject, the foreground, and the background. The light and the time it takes to create the photo are equally essential. In this article, I’ll be focusing on an ingredient which may be less obvious, sometimes even overlooked, but never absent: the frame.

What is the frame?

By frame, I don’t mean a picture frame, but the edges of the photo.

02 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Take a look at the photo above. What’s going on? There’s the subject (a cat) the foreground, a bench, the background (a pink wall) and a branch of some kind. So what does the frame have to do with all this?

The frame of a photograph is what separates the obvious from the inferred. It’s part of why a good photograph means different things to different people because that which is inferred is subjective.

Consider the photograph of the cat again. The cat is about to pounce, which means that there’s something going on outside the frame. Maybe another cat is walking by, or maybe there’s a delicious-looking bird on the ground.

What’s outside the frame is just as important

03 photography tips thinking outside the frame

What is left outside the frame can tell a story of its own or be an essential part of the subject of the photo? By creating tension between the obvious and the inferred you wield a powerful tool to make even better photographs. Every image has a relation to the rest of the world, even though the immediate surroundings aren’t obvious or don’t seem to add anything.

04 photography tips thinking outside the frame

So how do you start thinking outside the frame?

I will show you a few examples so you get the idea.

1 – Make it obvious

The obvious way is to make it clear that there is something outside the frame that isn’t being shown. The easiest way to do this is to capture an interesting gaze or photograph a detail.

05 photography tips thinking outside the frame

In the image above, the groom is not looking at the camera, but towards something more interesting outside the frame. For those who recognize the setting, it may be obvious that he is looking towards the church door, which will soon reveal the bride; for others, the interpretation could be different.

06 photography tips thinking outside the frame

These photos show a part of something larger. The hands suggest a person, and might even reveal something about that person. The spiraling tree creates a looping line that continues outside the frame.

2 – Tie the subject to the setting

The scene inside the frame can be tied to a larger setting without the subject directly or indirectly touching the frame. This can make the subject seem large or small, create an open or claustrophobic feeling, or give the surroundings a sense of continuity.

07 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Take a look at the photo above. By surrounding a tiny subject with a single, strong color, that color almost always feels like it continues on and on. In this picture, does it give you a sense of comfort or claustrophobia?

08 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The idea with the photo above is somewhat similar, but the feeling of it is quite different. Here is a playful animal in its seemingly limitless element, suggesting unlimited enjoyment. Or do you see something quite different?

3 – Use pattern or rhythm

By using a pattern or rhythm in the photo, you can create an effect that allows the viewer to imagine infinity. The idea is the same as in the example above, but the execution and effect are different. Here, the pattern or rhythm itself can be the subject, and it’s that subject that leads the viewer outside the frame.

09 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The pattern of cracked sea ice works like a block of color. But since it’s more interesting than just a single color, it can stand by itself and let the eye wander through the details in the photo and the mind continue beyond.

10 photography tips thinking outside the frame

A seascape like the one in the image above can suggest an infinitely large ocean just by showing an unbroken horizon. The ocean doesn’t only continue into the photo, though, it also continues sideways and beyond the edges of the photo. The rhythm of the clouds emphasizes this illusion.

4 – Reflections

Reflections are also an effective way of suggesting a wider world outside the constraints of the photograph. It’s a more direct way of pointing to the wider context.

11 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Concrete walls can suggest many things, but thanks to the reflection in the window it becomes quite clear that the photo is not taken in a concrete jungle, but in a verdant and sunny place. Reading the expression on the subject’s face becomes quite different thanks to the wider context.

Conclusion

Photography is always about choices, conscious or not. The more photography you do, the more deliberate your choices will become. Being aware of this gives you more control over your creative process. The creative decisions you can make based on those choices is what makes photography art.

How you frame your photographs is just one of the things to keep in mind when you photograph.

Do you pay attention to what you leave out when you take a photo? Do you have any examples or thoughts you’d like to share about how you’ve used the frame and what’s beyond as an element in your photography? I’d love to hear about it and see your photos in the comments below.

The post How to Show More with Your Photographs by Thinking Outside the Frame by Hannele Luhtasela-el Showk appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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More than a speed light: Shooting with the Rotolight Neo 2

18 Feb

Introduction

One Neo 2, lit by another Neo 2.

Artificial lighting falls into two categories: Continuous and strobe. Continuous lighting is a great option for beginning photographers, because you can see your results before tripping the shutter (also, they’re handy for the whole ‘video’ thing). Unfortunately, the continuous lights of yesteryear were very power hungry and put out a ton of heat to get light levels that even approached a small, battery-powered strobe.

The advent of LED lights changes this somewhat, offering users a more convenient means of entry into the world of continuous lighting. But their power output still pales in comparison to even a low-end hotshoe flash. Plus, even basic studio strobes come with modeling lights to help with setup, and many on-camera flashes now have LED lights for video shooting in dim conditions.

But Rotolight has come from the other direction; instead of a strobe that happens to include a continuous light source, the Neo 2 is a continuous light source that happens to be capable of strobing at a respectable power output.

The Neo 2’s high-speed sync feature allowed me to get some nice fill-light on Allison’s face at a wide aperture while still exposing for the direct-sun highlights in the scene.
Nikon D5 | Nikon 105mm F1.4G @ F2.8 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 100
Photo by Carey Rose

Designed to be versatile for both on-the-go photographers and videographers, the Neo 2 packs a ton of neat features into a truly portable package. Let’s take a closer look.

Key features

  • Continuous light power of 2000 lux at 3 ft
  • Strobe power of F8, ISO 200 at 3 ft (AC power – roughly half this on batteries)
  • Zero recycle time for strobe work
  • Built-in Elinchrom Skyport receiver for remote high-speed sync triggering (up to 1/8000 sec)
  • Battery or AC power
  • 85,000 full-power flashes or 1.5 hours continuous light on battery power
  • Color temperature adjustable from 3150 – 6300K

Of particular interest to me was the ability to control color temperatures without using gels, the wireless triggering with high-speed sync (HSS) capability, and the lack of any sort of recharge time, even on batteries.

I’m primarily a stills photographer, so I brought along a set of Neo 2’s to a few situations where I’d ordinarily be tempted to use a speedlight. In some ways, they’re hugely impressive, but in others, well, there’s a little ways for Rotolight to go.

Getting started with continuous light

The Rotolight Neo 2’s controls – two clickable rotary dials and a power switch.

As a continuous light, the Neo 2 is really straightforward. You hit the power button on the back of the light; one rotary knob controls the brightness, and the other controls the color temperature. Because the color temperature is varied depending on a ratio of brightness between cool and warm LEDs on the panel, a mix of the two – around 4100K – will give you maximum light output.

When I was wrapping up our iPhone X review, I wanted to take a photograph of the phone being splashed with water, but I wanted to be able to fire the fastest bursts I could to catch just the right moment. That’s tough with a traditional strobe, but perfect for continuous lighting.

Sony a9 | Sony 90mm F2.8 Macro | ISO 6400 | 1/1000 sec | F5.6

I took this shot in an office building lounge area, with some ambient light, the Neo 2 directly behind the subject and firing back at the camera at full power, and my cell phone LED giving a bit of kick to the corner of the phone closest to the camera.

I set a Sony a9 to shoot at its maximum rate of 20fps (which uses an electronic shutter, and therefore is incompatible with traditional strobes anyway), and fired away as my coworker nervously emptied the cup of water from an exaggerated height. The end result, though a little noisy because of the shutter speed I wanted, has all the drama I was envisioning.

Here’s another example of using the Neo 2 in continuous mode in the same room, but with a different subject.

Fujifilm X-H1 | ISO 200 | 1/100 sec | F1.4
Photo by Jeff Keller

Part of what makes a continuous light so fun and easy to use is the instant feedback of how the image looks, and with the Neo 2, it’s small enough and powerful enough to be great for product work. This could be particularly valuable for those who aren’t necessarily comfortable with flash photography, but are looking to up their production value for an eBay or Etsy store.

Then I took our Neo 2 set into the studio for some macro shots, and things weren’t so straightforward any more.

Strobe time

This is the time where I advise you to do what you really should do anyway: read the manual. While the Neo 2’s are perfectly intuitive just as constant lights, using them in flash mode is a little tricky at first, particularly if you’re using the optional Elinchrom Skyport radio controller.

But after some reading (and re-reading) of the manual and a healthy dose of trial and error, I was able to consistently control each of the Rotolights independently in terms of flash output, color temperature and modeling light output right from the transmitter.

Fujifilm X-T2 | Fujifilm XF 80mm F2.8 Macro| ISO 200 | 1/250 sec | F5.6

Though the HSS capability of the system is limited to whichever system you choose at purchase, our Nikon transmitter worked perfectly fine on a Fujifilm X-T2 up to that camera’s maximum sync speed.

For the above image, one Rotolight was behind the subject to the right, with one of the included diffusion panels on the front so that individual LEDs aren’t discernible, and I set the color temperature to the cooler side. There’s an additional Rotolight off camera left providing some fill, and the extra highlights you can see in the reflections off of the iPhone’s lenses are non-dimming ceiling lights.

Overall, it’s a nice system for macro work, but if you require really deep depth of field, your ISO will climb quickly (a later shot with this same setup at F22 required ISO 3200). But at the very least, for macro work, you can place the lights very close to your subject.

Balancing with daylight

One of the main issues with using continuous LED lights as a one-stop shop solution for lighting became apparent anytime you took them outdoors. Without a huge panel and accompanying huge battery, overcoming sunlight or even bright overcast conditions was a non-starter, and you really were just better off with a strobe. The Rotolight Neo 2’s, it turns out, split the difference nicely.

Rotolight Neo 2
Nikon D700 | F4 | 1/125 sec | ISO 200
Ambient Only
Nikon D700 | F4 | 1/40 sec | ISO 200

Although I tend to like each of these images for different reasons, you can clearly see that the single Neo 2 off to camera left changes the feel of the scene entirely. By raising my shutter speed to take the background brightness down, I can ‘shape’ the light effectively with the Rotolight, while still maintaining context. Plus, with high speed sync, I could use the Rotolight to overpower the ambient entirely in this situation, if I wanted to.

Let’s look at how the Neo 2 copes with a much brighter scene involving direct sunlight.

Ambient only
Nikon D5 | F2.8 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 100
Rotolight Neo 2
Nikon D5 | F2.8 | 1/1000 sec | ISO 100

In this situation, I exposed for the brightest highlights in the scene while still maintaining a fairly shallow depth of field. Then I brought in the Neo 2 at maximum power to see if it could keep up – I really like the effect it has here. It’s soft, but the added fill light looks almost like it could be a reflection off of another building.

But for this situation, I needed to place the Neo 2 pretty darn close to my subject. This was necessary because, over the course of using our Neo 2’s, they would completely synchronize with our Nikon’s all the way up to 1/8000 sec – but between 1/1000 and 1/2000 sec, I started to notice a reduction in the light’s intensity.

A mediocre BTS photo, courtesy of my cell phone, shows how close the Neo 2 was to the subject.

As it happens, this 1/1000 sec shutter speed made for a good exposure for the ambient in this scene while still allowing the Neo 2 to operate optimally. But it should be pretty apparent that in bright conditions, you’ll struggle with framing your subjects wider than just head-and-shoulders with the Neo 2, to say nothing of trying to get a second evenly lit person into the scene.

The recycle time

Instant recycle time means 11fps bursts with flash are as easy as it is for Andrew to juggle this soccer ball.
Nikon D5 | Nikon AF-S 14-24mm F2.8 G | ISO 6400 | 1/1000 sec | F2.8
Photo by Carey Rose

For the above casual demo, I wanted to see just how effective and reliable the Neo 2’s were when shooting bursts. With zero recycle time and 85,000 full power flashes per battery charge, sports and action could be a really neat use case for these lights.

I cross-lit Andrew with two Neo 2’s – one upper camera left, one lower camera right. Check out the illumination on the grass in the lower right to see just how consistent the output is, even as the stadium lights caused some flicker at these shutter speeds.

ISO 6400 | 1/800 sec | F2.8
Photo by Carey Rose

It should be noted, though, that the D5 was set to 11fps instead of its maximum of 12fps – with the current setup, the Neo 2’s would occasionally fail to fire during the D5’s highest burst speed. That said, having 11fps at my disposal as Andrew went through a few penalty kicks still gave me lots of options to choose from.

Thoughts and takeaways

The Rotolight Neo 2 is a really clever device, and the more I use them, the more I enjoy them. I can envision myself really taking advantage of their versatility in a previous job of mine; I could use them as indoor interview lights for an on-location video, and then bring them outdoors to get a nice portrait of the subject to go along with the video. Two uses, one solution, and my bag is that much lighter.

Again, a Neo 2 lit by another Neo 2.
Nikon D750 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm F2.8 AI-s | ISO 100 | 1/125 sec | F8

The quality of the light is nice and soft, and the instantaneous recycle time and long battery life (for strobing) are appealing. The consistency of color accuracy, even during burst shooting, impresses further.

There’s also a litany of features that are far beyond the scope of this experience; impressive lighting simulations, like the glow of a fire or flashes of lightning, are built-in. The CRI (color rendering index) is very high, good enough for broadcast television.

And yet, I can’t help but feel that these are a bit of a niche product, that their appeal will be limited. For people that are primarily stills shooters, smaller, cheaper, battery-powered flashes will offer you far more power (you may need to get some light modifiers to approach the softness of the Neo 2’s).

For dedicated video shooters, you may find you need more power if you’re in bright conditions. For beginners just getting into artificial lighting, there are basic LED light panels all over the Internet for less than the cost of a tank of gas.

Despite all of this, I think that the Rotolight Neo 2’s have their place as a high-end, portable and versatile lighting solution, admittedly for a very specific type of customer. And more than anything else, I’m excited to see how Rotolight continues to develop this technology into the future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DPRSplit will help pull more dynamic range from Canon 5D Mark IV Dual Pixel Raw files

14 Feb

RawDigger and FastRawViewer have released the beta version of an application called DPRSplit, designed for Canon 5D Mark IV owners. With DPRSplit, photographers can input a CR2 file from a Canon 5D Mark IV and then extract a second image from it, one with an exposure value that is about one stop lower than the original CR2 image.

This utility works only if the camera’s Dual Pixel Raw mode was enabled when the shots were taken.

Canon explains how this technology works on its website:

The Dual Pixel sensor’s pixels have a dual photodiode construction. This sensor design means the sensor can receive an A and B signals from the subject and to detect any phase differences between the two signals, allowing them to attain focus as part of the Dual Pixel AF system … During Dual Pixel RAW shooting, a single RAW file saves two images into the file. One image consists of the A+B combined image data and the other only the A image data.

Photographers benefit from this technology by using Canon’s Digital Photo Professional software, which enables users to make “microadjustments” to focus, bokeh shift, and reduce ghosting. However, the software doesn’t enable users to extract both images from the CR2 file separately—that’s where DPRSplit comes in.

With this utility, photographers get access to that second frame, which has half the light of the composite image. This means that, in essence, the camera is automatically capturing two shots, bracketed by about 1EV.

Extracted images are saved as DNG files for editing with any software that supports the format, so you can blend the images back together and get about +1EV more usable dynamic range. And since the exposures are captured simultaneously, you don’t have to worry about motion blur in your image. The only potential “issue” is a minor parallax error between the two frames.

DPRSplit beta 0.8 is free to download for Windows 7 or higher and Mac OS X 10.6 through macOS 10.13. As with any beta software, it is possible users will encounter bugs, but if you’re a 5D Mark IV user and you already shoot in Dual Pixel Raw, this one might be worth a shot.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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