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Posts Tagged ‘More’

Halide update brings Smart RAW, Apple watch update and more

09 Oct

Popular iOS camera app Halide has received its latest update. Halide version 1.10 comes with a new Smart HDR feature, an improved watch app for the Apple Watch Series 4 , and more.

Smart RAW is a feature specifically designed for the new iPhone XS, XS Max and XR models. In a recent blog post Halide founder Sebastiaan de With detailed how the new iPhones tend to use higher ISO values and more aggressive noise reduction than previous iterations, presumably to enable Apple’s new SmartHDR feature and/or reduce motion blur on moving subjects.

Smart RAW uses an exposure logic that is different from the default iPhone camera and uses lower ISOs for lower levels of noise and better image detail in Raw files. The feature is unnecessary on the iPhone X or 8 as those older models use smaller sensors and are by default programmed to use the lowest possible ISO setting.

The update also brings a feature that lets you easily compare JPG image output to its Raw counterpart, allowing you to decide which format is best for a particular job. The Halide watch component has been optimized for the larger screen on Apple’s new Watch Series 4.

The developers say they have also done some cleaning up of the code and have shrunk the app down to half the size of the previous version. You can download Halide version 1.10 now from the Apple App Store for $ 5.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Add More Interest to Your Astrophotography With Light Painting

05 Oct

Photographing the night sky is a lot of fun and can result in some stunning photographs. You don’t need to look far to find some incredible, out-of-this-world astrophotography.

As the low-light performance of cameras continues to improve, astrophotography has come within reach of more photographers.

joshua tree astrophotography light painting

You may have tried your hand at photographing the stars and the Milky Way, or you may be fantasizing about going out to play while the world sleeps. If you aren’t new to astrophotography, you’ve likely found that it isn’t as easy as you might think. Even with the right gear, it takes a lot of practice and can be incredibly frustrating at times.

Even if you’ve managed to come home with some sharp, well-exposed images of the stars, you may be wondering what’s missing. What are so many night sky photos missing? It’s easy to get so focused on photographing the sky that you can forget that it’s the earth that makes them interesting.

Adding Interest to Your Night Sky Photos

One of the best things you can do to add depth to a landscape photo is include some foreground interest. Astrophotography is no different.

This is why you’ll find that some of the most stunning astrophotos include natural or man-made elements like rock formations, lighthouses, or old barns.

beach astrophotography light painting

BEFORE: A 20-second exposure using only ambient light.

beach astrophotography light painting

AFTER: The same scene with the sand illuminated by light painting with the screen on my phone.

You may have already tried including some foreground interest into your night sky photos. The problem is that the best places for astrophotography are the darkest places. As far away from light pollution as possible, with little or no moonlight. Unfortunately, this means there is very little ambient light to illuminate the foreground that you’re trying to include.

One simple solution is called light painting. It comes in many forms and can be done using many different techniques. The basic principle is that you add light to parts of the scene to illuminate them. It can not only transform your astrophotography, it’s also a lot of fun.

The best part is that you don’t need any fancy or expensive gear. All you need is a light source. You can use anything you have lying around. A flashlight, light bar, camping lamp, your phone, or your car’s headlights. I’ve even seen people using a drone. I always take a headlamp so I can see what I’m doing so that often does the trick.

How to Paint With Light

Light painting isn’t difficult, in fact, it’s really easy. Once you have your camera set up and ready to go, take a photo of the scene with ambient light to make sure you’ve exposed for the sky and stars.

When you’re happy with your settings, either you or a buddy will use the light source to paint light onto the foreground elements that you want to illuminate. Start by painting a small amount of light into the scene, then check the image. You’ll rarely get it right the first time.

camping astrophotography light painting

BEFORE: A 25-second exposure of a camping scene with the light of the fire and an LED placed inside the tent.

camping astrophotography light painting

AFTER: The same scene with the vehicle illuminated by my headlamp to the right of the scene.

Take multiple exposures, slowly painting in more light as necessary. Try experimenting with painting from various angles to see how it changes the way the foreground looks. Don’t be afraid to walk into the frame. With exposure times of 20-30 seconds, you won’t be visible as long as you keep moving. Just be careful not to shine the light source into the lens. I find wearing black helps you stay invisible.

As you’re photographing tiny amounts of ambient light, you’ll find it’s easy to overdo it with the light painting and overexpose the foreground. Less is more with this technique. If you find the foreground is too bright, paint less light in or use a light source that isn’t as bright. I find the light from the screen on my phone works well. It also allows you to choose the color of the light.

As with any form of photography, don’t forget that off-camera light (light coming from the sides of the scene) gives a much more pleasing look and creates depth in your photos. Instead of standing behind your camera and light painting while the shutter is open, move off to the side or walk through the scene to vary the angles of the direction of the light. Just be sure to check where you’re walking first!

tree astrophotography light painting

BEFORE: A tree silhouetted against the light of the Milky Way.

tree astrophotography light painting

AFTER: I used a camping light to paint the edge of the tree with light, helping to give the scene some depth and lead the viewer’s eye into the stars.

Post-Processing Astrophotography Images

When it comes time to edit your photos, the more frames you have to work with the better. You may find that there’s one exposure where you nailed the exposure and light painting in one frame, in which case you can go ahead with post-processing it.

In the more likely scenario that you like different parts of different frames, which you can easily blend together in Photoshop to create a composite.

This is where your base exposure with no added light will come in handy. Go through and select the images that you want to create the composite with, including the base exposure, then use this digital blending technique to combine them in Photoshop. I like to do a basic edit to the images in Lightroom before exporting to Photoshop, then I add final touches after blending them into one image.

joshua tree astrophotography light painting

BEFORE: Rocks and Joshua trees are slightly illuminated by the ambient light pollution.

joshua tree astrophotography light painting

AFTER: The same rocks and trees painted with light from my flashlight as I walked through the scene.

It’s easier than you think

Light painting may seem like a complex photographic technique, but it’s actually quite simple. It can take your astrophotography from good to great, and you’ll find the process is very enjoyable, even addictive!

Next time you head out into the night with camera in hand, pack an extra flashlight and give light painting a try. You’ll be glad you did.

The post How to Add More Interest to Your Astrophotography With Light Painting appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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iPhone XS Max teardown reveals new sensor with more focus pixels

28 Sep

When Apple announced the new iPhone models XS and XS Max the company told us that the camera’s wide-angle module featured a larger sensor with 1.4 µm pixels compared to 1.22 µm on last year’s iPhone X.

Now a teardown performed by TechInsights has confirmed the new sensor, but has also revealed some additional detail about the wide-angle camera. The sensor is a stacked model provided by Sony and measures 7.01 mm x 5.79 mm (40.6 mm2). This is 7.8 mm2 more than the wide-angle camera sensor on the iPhones X and 8 Plus.

TechInsights engineers noticed an increased density of Focus Pixels

In addition, the TechInsights engineers noticed an increased density of Focus Pixels. This means more regions of the sensor are available as autofocus points and should, at least in theory, improve autofocus performance in most light conditions and shooting situations. Focus Pixels is an Apple term for masked PDAF pixels which were first introduced in 2014 with the iPhone 6.

TechInsight’s teardown is still in progress, so we hope the team can provide some more information and also have a closer look at the camera’s 2x tele-module, which on paper looks unchanged from last year, over the coming days.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Manfrotto launches ‘50% more rigid’ carbon fiber twin-leg tripods for video

27 Sep

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Accessories manufacturer Manfrotto has launched a pair of carbon fiber tripods for videographers that it claims are 50% more rigid than their aluminum counterparts and which come in a choice of configurations. The CF Twin Leg models feature dual risers and offer users a choice of leg spreading braces. The first model has a removable middle spreader half way up the legs and the other has the spreader attached to the feet. Both can have rubber or spiked feet, and are essentially the same in all other respects.

A 100mm bowl comes as standard along with a 75mm adapter to make the set-up compatible with a wider range of heads, and the legs are available as an optional kit with the Nitrotech N8 and N12 video heads as well as the 504. The legs in either configuration will cost £659.95/$ 699.95 with no head, and are available for pre-order on the Manfrotto website.

Press release

{pressrelease}

MANFROTTO EXPANDS ITS VIDEO SUPPORTS RANGE WITH TWO NEW TWIN-LEG TRIPODS IN CARBON FIBRE

  • Carbon fibre with new internal lock mechanism
  • 100mm bowl with 75mm aluminium adapter
  • 50% increased rigidity*

Manfrotto, world leader in the photography, videography, imaging equipment and accessories industry, has expanded its video tripod range with two new twin-leg video tripods made of carbon fibre.

The two brand-new, twin-leg video tripod models are the perfect solution for professional videographers looking for robust, rigid and lightweight support.

A 50% increase in rigidity* is achieved thanks to the combination of carbon-fibre tubes and a new patent-pending internal leg lock mechanism.

Manfrotto’s two new twin-leg carbon-fibre video tripods feature a 100mm bowl and include a 75mm aluminium adapter, for compatibility with a wider range of video heads.
Moreover, the tripod feet with spiked option give great versatility when it comes to different shooting locations.

The twin-leg carbon fibre tripods are available in two models: the first with an easily removable middle spreader and telescopic arms, and the second with a ground spreader, telescopic arms and incorporated rubber shoes.

Both twin-leg carbon-fibre tripods are also available in combination with Manfrotto Nitrotech N12, N8 and 504 video heads.

All Manfrotto video tripods are engineered with a focus on quality and dedication to continuous innovation. These products are the perfect solution for all videographers looking for a great support for their video shooting. Manfrotto’s new twin-leg carbon-fibre tripods will take support for their video gear to the next level.

*Compared with the Manfrotto aluminium versions 546B, 546GB, 545B, 545GB.

RRP £659.95. For more information, please visit www.manfrotto.co.uk

{/pressrelease}

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony to release 12 more E-mount lenses in two years, add AI to cameras

26 Sep

At Sony’s press conference at Photokina the company announced that 12 more E-mount lenses will be arriving over the next two years, bringing the total to 60.

In addition, the company emphasized its focus on both speed and integrating artificial intelligence into its approaches. One application of the latter Sony talked about was using machine learning to train its Eye AF algorithm to detect and track eyes of animals, with benefits to both wildlife and pet photography.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Pixelmator Pro update adds Light Leak effect and more

08 Sep

Pixelmator has announced an update to its Pixelmator Pro image editing software. Version 1.1.4 to brings new effects, a new AI-powered Auto Selective Color adjustment tool and more.

The Auto Selective Color feature uses machine learning to automatically apply selective color adjustments, improving specific colors in an images. A new Light Leak effect adds a vintage film look to your photos and the Bokeh effect simulates the shallow depth of field of a fast lens on a DSLR, similar to what we are seeing on many current smartphone cameras.

There is also a new Spin Blur effect which creates circular motion effects. The Noise effect is something we have seen before on other editing applications and simply lets you add grain to your images. Other new effects include Threshold, Mask to Alpha, Clouds, and more Tile and Distort effects.

Auto White Balance and Auto Lightness preserve skintones better and are 30 percent faster than in previous versions of the software

Pixelmator did not only add new features, however, but also improved some of the existing tools. The company says Auto White Balance and Auto Lightness preserve skintones better and are 30 percent faster than in previous versions of the software. The Color Adjustments and Effects sub-menus now come with Copy, Paste, Reset and Flatten Adjustment options. In addition you can now use a new keyboard shortcut (O) to show the original image while editing.

You can find a full list of improvements and modifications on Pixelmator’s What’s New page. Pixelmator Pro can currently be downloaded for $ 29.99 from the Mac App Store. That’s a $ 30 discount off the regular price.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Photograph a Wedding – A Guide to Equipment, Shooting, Editing and More

07 Sep
  • Have you ever entertained the thought of being a wedding photographer?
  • Or have you ever been asked by a friend to photograph their wedding?
  • Or have you already taken the leap into wedding photography and it’s not quite going the way you hoped?

If you you answer yes to any of these questions – our brand new Wedding Photography ebook is for you!

Best of all – if you grab it this week it’s 50% off the normal retail price – so it’s your for just $ 9USD!

This beautifully designed eBook was written by Lily Sawyer who many of you will know as a regular writer for dPS.

Lily is also a professional photographer and draws on her experience of photographing more than 500 weddings, events and portrait sessions to share some practical advice for anyone hoping to embark on a similar journey into wedding photography.

7 Chapters of Practical Wedding Photography Advice

Included in this eBook are 7 chapters covering:

  • How to be a good wedding photographer
  • Equipment for wedding photography
  • A step-by-step guide to photographing a wedding day
  • Editing and batch processing
  • Products you can offer your clients
  • Pricing and how to find your happy place
  • Marketing your business

Click through for more details and to preview sample pages and to grab your copy of the eBook.

We think this is one of the best risk-free instantly downloadable resource you can buy to help you on your journey as a wedding photographer – no hype, no over-promising or relentless hustle speak – just realistic advice and practical tips.


Download it Now $ 9USD

P.S. As with all our books and courses, we offer a 60-day money back guarantee, so you can buy it confidently today, risk-free.

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How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

27 Aug

Semi black and white or selective color photos are quite effective. It’s an old trick by some photographers considered a cheap trick, nevertheless, it is a quite effective one. And just because it’s an old idea it should not hold you back from experimenting with it.

Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color - old ship in Denmark

A selective color photograph of the Viking ship “The Sea Stallion” in Roskilde, Denmark.

In this article, you will learn a couple of different ways to make selective color photos and you how to spot or photograph the candidates. It’s not a technique that is applicable to all photographs, but for some, it can make a big difference.

You most likely already know some famous selective color photos. A classic image is of a 7-year old boy kissing a 7-year old girl while holding a red rose, where the flower is the only thing in color. Or a photo of a red bicycle, and everything else but the bicycle is black and white.

These examples are probably part of the reason the technique is considered a cheap trick.

street in europe at night with orange lights - Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

Background information

Before diving into the technique, you might want to know the theory. The pioneer landscape photographer Ansel Adams used a technique in his darkroom to change the exposure locally on various parts of a photo. This way he could make some areas brighter and others darker.

The human eye naturally seeks the brighter parts of a photo and by using this knowledge, Ansel Adams could emphasize what he wanted and guide the viewer around in his photos. This technique is called dodging and burning.

selective color landscape scene - Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

You can use a similar technique with colors. Just as the human eye is attracted to bright areas in an image, it is also attracted to more saturated areas. In this way, it is very similar to dodging and burning. You can use this as a tool to guide the viewer’s eye around a photo.

Just to be clear: It is the difference in saturation that the eye can spot not just high saturation. If you have even saturation all over your photo, you can’t control the eye through color. Increasing or decreasing the overall saturation will not change that situation and if everything gets too saturated it often becomes painful to look at.

If you only turn up the saturation on certain objects of interest in your photo, the eye will seek those out. This way you will be able to guide the viewer to the important objects in your photo.

Chicago the Bean - Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

You can achieve the same effect by decreasing the saturation from everything else but the subject. If you go to the extreme end and completely remove all color, except a few elements, you will have a semi-black and white or selective color photo.

By using this technique you will create stronger photos.

The classic technique to create selective color photos

You can create the classic “boy kisses girl” or “red bike” photographs, but you can also go searching for something else. This example is from the famous Nyhavn in Copenhagen. These old houses are very colorful, which can look great, but also can be quite an eyeful of colors.

row of houses in Copenhagen - Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

By removing colors from all houses except the two yellow ones, the attention is strong on those two houses. Any house or two houses picked to be saturated, would attract attention, but the two picked are good candidates, because:

  1. They are both the same color, which creates balance.
  2. They are approximately the same size, which also adds to creating balance.
  3. Most importantly, they have symmetrical placement in the photo.

Composition

Notice that the houses are placed the same distance from the edge of the frame. That emphasizes the composition and makes it a stronger photo than most other available choices.

Notice also that the windows between the two yellow houses have some color. That is a spice that allows the viewer to discover more subtle details, making the image more interesting to look at.

Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

You can use the selective color approach to create a different kind of composition within your photo. You can plan this when you are photographing. Or, as I did in this case, you can discover it when you post-process the photos. It is the final result that counts, not the path you chose to get there.

The next photo is a similar example from a metro station. Again you can see the clearly separated colored stairs. Just like before, you can also find a little spice in the blue color added to the stairs. You can do that kind of trick to make the image more intriguing.

red and blue stairs - Learn How to Use the Strength of Selective Color

If you want to create photographs like these, search for something that you can make stand out. Then frame it, like it was more or less the only object within the frame. You have to think of it as a very simple composition, even if it is a busy scene.

When you desaturate the rest of the image, the balance will change. The colored elements will be the primary focus points, regardless of everything else in the photo.

How to make a classic selective color photo

There are several ways to do this, in this example, you will learn an easy-to-learn approach in Adobe Lightroom. First, you have to find the photo that you want to work on and then follow these steps.

Step 1 – Go to the Development Module

Lightroom Develop - How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

Step 2 – Pick the Adjustment Brush tool

Step 3 – Set brush settings

At first, make sure you have edge detection (Auto Mask) disabled and the brush is at 100% flow and 100% density. Then reset all settings (double-click on the word Effect) except Saturation, which you will then set to -100.

Step 4 – Paint everything black and white

How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

Step 5 – Switch to the Erase brush

Step 6 – Paint in the objects you want to have color

Set the size of the brush to something that is fitting for your subject and paint roughly over it. The Erase Brush will remove the black and white, and you will get a colored object.

Step 7 – Zoom in and make sure you have the edges right

Next Zoom in (press Z) and switch between the Brush and the Erase Brush to make a perfect edge.

Depending on your photo, you may have to use either Feather at 0 or you may be able to use Auto Mask, which is the automatic edge detection. In this case, the Auto Mask cannot figure out the edge and I had to use a brush at 0 Feather (hard edge brush).

How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

Remove some colors

You can also use a different approach. Instead of limiting the colors to a specific object, you can remove certain colors. This approach works well on photos that have unwanted colors or a color cast.

In the example below of the Vikingship, the photograph was shot during the blue hour. Because the blue light reflects in the snow it becomes too much and it is not flattering. By removing the Blues and the Cyan/Aquas the photo changes and becomes a piece of fine art. Use the HSL panel to do this.

How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images - before and after images

Just by removing blue and cyan/aqua a photo can become a piece of fine art.

This technique gives photos that have a much more complex separation between the black and white and the colored elements and the viewer can go searching for details. In the photo above, you can find a second Viking ship with Christmas lights on in the background.

Here’s another example from The Scoop in London. There was a light drizzle, which was enough for the blue light to shine and appear to glow into the air. By removing all other colors than blue and purple the photo is changed dramatically.

This third photograph below is from a train station in Geneva.

If you study the photos you can see the colored selections are much more complex and not something you can do by hand.

The photograph from London is about the shape of The Scoop. The original photograph had an orange sky, which did not work well with the blue light of The Scoop. By using the selective color black and white technique, the focus is on The Scoop.

How to remove individual colors

You can very easily remove specific colors in Adobe Lightroom. Find the photo you want to work with.

Step 1 – Go to the Develop Module

How to Use Selective Color for More Dynamic Images

Step 2 – Go to the HSL module

HSL panel
Play with pulling some of the sliders to zero and leaving some at 100. You may have to dial several of the sliders to zero to achieve the desired effect.

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How to Work a Location to Get More Great Photos

20 Aug

I wouldn’t be able to count the number of potentially great photos I’ve missed because I visited a location with only one image in mind. It’s easy to fall for the temptation to set up, get your shot, then pack up and leave. I’ve done it countless times, and I’m sure you have too.

How to Work a Location to Get More Great Photos- photo of a rocky coast and trees

Every location on earth has the potential for thousands of different images. Even a simple beach scene can be photographed in a huge variety of ways to create many beautiful images. You don’t need to have stunning scenery to come home with a collection of great images.

It only takes a little planning combined with the ability to improvise and adapt to the environment. Here are some tips to help you work a location to come home with more and better photos.

Step 1: Plan Plan Plan

I’m a huge advocate of planning your photos. In landscape photography, you’re at the mercy of mother nature, so the more prepared you are, the better your chances are of getting the shot.

How do the top landscape photographers in the world manage to consistently produce gorgeous images? They’re in the right place at the right time. Of course, there’s a bit of luck involved, but it’s largely down to a lot of careful planning.

How to Work a Location to Get More Great Photos - sunset and reflection in water

Once I’ve chosen a photography location I’ll almost always do some planning for the shots I want. This usually involves looking at satellite and topographical maps on Google Maps. This will give you an idea of the landscape and features of the location.

Consider the time of day

Once you have an idea of the photos you want to take, it’s worth considering the best time of day. Golden hour at either end of the day provide great light, but you also may need to consider other factors like the tide and travel time.

There are many tools available to help you research and plan your photos. My favorite by far is PhotoPills. It’s a paid app, but worth every cent. It includes too many features to list here, and I can’t recommend it enough.

Photo sharing sites like Flickr and Instagram are great for finding inspiration. Experiment with a variety of tools and find what works for you. Whatever you decide on, be sure to use them. Planning your landscape photos will dramatically increase your rate of keepers.

How to Work the Scene to Get More Great Photos - overhead view of a rocky beach

Step 2: Work the Location

Once you’ve planned your photos, the obvious next step is to go and create the beautiful images you’ve imagined.

Make sure you’re well prepared. Nothing will ruin well-planned photography like flat batteries or full memory cards. Watch the weather forecast and get to your location with plenty of time to spare. Wear comfortable shoes because you’ll likely be doing some walking.

Get the shot, but don’t stop there. There are still many opportunities to get more great photos. Exploring on foot is the best way to find different and interesting photos that you may not have considered when originally researching the location.

Walk in the direction you just photographed and look back the way you came. Hike up to a high place. Walk up a river or climb some rocks. Move your legs. Very few incredible photos are taken from parking lots.

How to Work the Scene to Get More Great Photos - empty beach and blue sky

Change it up

Other than finding different perspectives and subjects to photograph, there are a few other ways to get more out of a location. Try using different gear. A different focal length can open up a bunch of new possibilities for shooting the same scene.

If you’re used to photographing landscapes with a wide-angle lens, put a longer lens on your camera. It will not only allow you to create many more compositions from the same place, but it will also stretch you creatively.

How to Work the Scene to Get More Great Photos - aerial view of coastline

Rent or borrow a macro lens and try taking a look at the smaller details of the location. You have almost limitless possibilities once you start looking at the grass, rocks, sand, or trees around you.

Light is everything

Another option is to wait for the light to change. Within the space of a couple of hours, you can photograph everything from daylight, through the golden hour, and into twilight. The same scene can look very different as the intensity, color, and direction of the light changes. Watch the way the shadows shape a landscape as the sun drops.

How to Work the Scene to Get More Great Photos - tidal pool at sunset

I learned to love photographing blue hour when I went out for sunset and noticed that I loved the light about 30 to 60 minutes after sunset. Try sticking around into the evening and playing with the low light. You could even stay until well after sunset and try including some stars or the Milky Way in the scene.

Finally, using various photographic techniques or effects can add a different look to the same location. If there’s movement in the scene, try photographing it with different shutter speeds. Fast shutter speeds that freeze movement look very different from long exposures that blur movement.

How to Work the Scene to Get More Great Photos - long exposure of ocean waves sunset

The way you expose the light can also change the look of the image a lot. Try exposing for a blown-out back-lit image or an underexposed the foreground for dark silhouettes. Photograph landscapes with both a large and small depth-of-field for a different look.

That’s it!

As you can see, with a bit of creativity, forethought, and patience, your options are many. You don’t need to come home from a location with only one good image.

Since I’ve learned to work a location, I often come home with many more decent images than I expected. Even with plenty of research and planning. Next time you go out to photograph a location, do some planning, get the shot, then walk, wait, and get creative to find a bunch more photos you’ll be happy with.

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11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

16 Aug

Musicians, magazines, fans, and record labels alike turn to skilled photographers to tell a story of a momentous performance and return unique concert photos.

Concert photographers are often on assignment for a publication that has sent them out to capture meaningful pictures that could very well go down in music history. Otherwise, music photographers are individually hired by the performing artists. Whatever brings you to the photo pit, your goal is to capture something wonderful.

That being said, the music photography industry has become surprisingly saturated in recent years. In order to stand out amongst the crowd, you have to take live music photographs that differ from others in your photo pit. Here are 11 tips on how to take more unique concert photographs.

#1 – Don’t Forget About the Detail Shots

still life concert image - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: Behemoth

Although you want to focus heavily on the musicians performing on the stage, the detail shots are just as important.

Many bands put in a significant amount of effort into their live show productions, from stage props to lighting schemes. A unique and effective statement to your live concert gallery are some close-ups of the epic stage props that the band uses.

At the very least, the artist who created the props or the instrument company will thank you!

#2 – Play with Art and Distortion Lenses

blue and pink concert lighting - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: MGT. Shot with the Lensbaby Burnside 35.

Though concert photography is often an assignment from a journalistic outlet, that doesn’t mean that you can’t have a couple of minutes to yourself to do something vastly different. You do not have to be afraid of using artistic or distortion lenses at a live show. If anything, they make the frame exceptionally cool!

The fish-eye lens became very famous by well-known concert photographers by being used at live shows. I, myself, love using the Lensbaby lenses at live concerts. The manual focus can oftentimes be much more effective than relying on autofocus.

Try using a copper tube to create very cool swirls around your subject.

art lenses - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: A Mirror Hollow. Shot with the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM lens.

You can submit the standard shots to the outlet, and the unique ones to the band. I am telling you, the musicians will love a new take on their live performances.

#3 – Tons of Flying Hair is Great

hair whipping - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: Cradle of Filth

Naturally, try to capture the facial expressions of the performers. However, you are dealing with rockstars here, and part of the cool factor of these rock gods is their wild style.

Take advantage of the flying hair and fun headbanging, they can sometimes make cooler shots than your standard singing portraits.

#4 – Perspective is Everything

band between legs - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: HIM

Although concert photography can be very limited, between shooting time restrictions and limitations on your shooting location, you can still play with perspective.

The key to being different is viewing life through a lens that is more diverse than those around you, no pun intended. Get low, low, low to the ground and shoot up or move yourself to the very far side of the photo pit and shoot from there! Photograph in between the heads of fans or get up on the balcony.

Whatever you do, find new angles, views, and compositions to take advantage of to create more unique concert photos.

#5 – The Musician Doesn’t  Always Have to Look at You

musician on stage - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: Nightwish

It is true that the viewer connects best when the subject is looking at or engaging with the camera.

However, you don’t always have to fight for that type of shot during a live concert setting. It’s okay for the musicians not to interact with you as a photographer. Shots of them looking away or down can be just as eye-catching.

#6 – Embrace the Light, Don’t Avoid it

stage lighting - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: IAMX

Having a good grip on lighting will aid you in your concert photography journey. Stage lighting can differ tremendously between shows, venues, and even what lighting is available for that evening. The lighting can range from bright white strobes to deep reds.

Understanding how lighting is photographed by your camera, how it reflects on the instruments and equipment, and how the bulbs affect the performer’s skin tones will change how you take the photograph.

Most incredibly safe and tame images come from the photographer being wary of taking advantage of the lighting situation at concerts. Don’t be afraid to jump right in there and take advantage of whatever bizarre lighting scheme the performers have cooked up for you.

At the end of the day, the lighting is a part of the concert experience, and your job is to capture that.

#7 – Lens Flares are Rad

lens flare musician performing - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: Epica

On the topic of lighting, lens flares can be very cool!

This is, of course, an aesthetic choice, but I personally find them to be quite fun. You can cause a flare in a similar fashion to photographing during sunset or golden hour. When the light hits the front glass element of your lens at a specific angle, a flare will appear.

#8 – Overexposing and Underexposing Can Work

moody concert lighting - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: The Misfits

To help accurately capture the emotion and feel of the show, it is alright to overexpose or underexpose your frame. This can also create a rather unique and uncommon type of photograph.

Use your best judgment and common sense here to determine when such exposures are appropriate.

#9 – Don’t Be Afraid to Get Close

close up of a band member on stage - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: Jyrki69

Guitarists don’t bite (not hard anyway)! Don’t be afraid to get close to the performers on the stage. Take a wide-angle lens, such as a 16-35mm lens, and get right up in there. The perspective distortion can make for a very cool shot.

However, that being said, be aware of your surroundings. I cannot reiterate this point enough. Absolutely be aware of your surroundings!

It is easy to get lost in the moment and fall into a creative bliss when shooting, but a live music event is not the place to lose yourself.

If you’re not growing eyes in the back of your head, you’ll most likely get clonked right in the temple by a crowd surfer, tangled in a microphone cord, or smacked by a flying guitar. This will help you avoid injury to yourself and others.

#10 – In-Between Moments Tell a Story

singer between songs - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: HIM

The band may have put their instruments down for a moment, but that doesn’t mean that the job of the photographer ends there.

Some in-between moments can become incredible iconic images through their powerful storytelling ability.

#11 – The Moment is More Important than Technical Accuracy

red concert lighting - 11 Ideas for More Unique Concert Photos

Band: IAMX

Let’s face the facts, we all pixel peep. I believe that over time, passionate photographers get a bit anxious about technical perfection in their images (I know I sure do sometimes). However, some niches such as event photography are not as fussed over technical mistakes as long as the moment captured is important.

There is be a fine balance between taking a good photograph by technique and taking a good photograph by design (aka a great and powerful moment). However, if you have to choose between capturing a fantastic story and ensuring equipment perfection, pick the story.

Many wonderful images are overlooked because the focus is too set on ensuring that an image is tack sharp rather than what the subject portrays.

Of course, this isn’t meant to be interpreted as disregarding technical proficiency. You should aim to take exceptional photographs, but don’t get lost in your pursuit and forget your purpose for photographing the event.

Your turn

Now that you have these tips in your photography toolbelt, go out there and take some wicked shots!

Band: Epica

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