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Posts Tagged ‘Landscape’

6 Ways to Easily Improve Your Landscape Photography

27 Feb

The post 6 Ways to Easily Improve Your Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Capturing beautiful scenery is one of the most enjoyable aspects of outdoor photography where you can fully immerse yourself in a breathtaking landscape and record the scene unfolding right before your eyes. There is so much available to shoot when out in the field photographing landscapes, from epic vistas of majestic mountains to lush, and green rolling hills. Here are 6 ways to help you improve your landscape photography:

1. Include a point of interest

Lavendar, Provence, France © Jeremy Flint

Usually, when people are first starting in landscape photography, they take pictures of the countryside to show a view of the land and sky but don’t consider other aspects such as adding an interesting feature to their frame.

One way to bring your landscapes to life is to add a point of interest in your photograph.

Some suggestions for points of interest could be an outbuilding, a fence, gate, tree, hedgerows or anything else you can find that would enhance your images. This extra feature could lift your landscape images from ordinary to excellent.

2. See the light

Namibia © Jeremy Flint

Light is one of the great aspects of photography that can help to improve your landscape images. Have you ever been to a location only to find the weather was cloudy and overcast? While this can be great for some types of photography, such as coastal and seascape scenes, having some light shining on a landscape scene can help to improve your image. Landscape scenes without light can often be flat and uninteresting. So be sure to make the most of the light when the sun is out as it can bring your landscapes to life.

I recommend looking out for changing patterns of light and be aware of how the sun affects your shots. For example, during the middle of the day, the sun is much higher in the sky and lights up most of the landscape from above. Whereas, when the sun sits lower in the sky, shadows can form where some parts of your scene become shaded.

© Jeremy Flint

3. Consider where to place the horizon

Depending on what you are photographing and what you are trying to achieve, it would be advantageous to consider the horizon and where you intend to place it in your landscape images.

Whatever you find most appealing, you may want to consider including more sky or foreground in your frame. If you find the sky more interesting, place the horizon on the lower third section of your image. Alternatively, if you think the foreground is more appealing position the horizon towards the upper third of the frame. Also, placing the horizon line in the middle of your pictures could make a landscape more balanced. It is entirely your choice and comes down to how you want your final image to look.

© Jeremy Flint

4. Eliminate distractions

The elimination of distractions may seem like an obvious aspect to consider when photographing landscapes. However, it is amazing how many photos include distracting elements. Remember that sometimes less is more and that by taking certain eyesores out of your frame, such as unsightly telephone wires or lampposts, can improve your landscape photos dramatically.

5. Time of day

© Jeremy Flint

The time of day you decide to capture landscapes can affect how your images look. I appreciate that you may be limited on time or are only able to take photos at certain times of the day due to work, family or other commitments. Therefore, use this to your advantage as landscape photography can look good at any time of day – daytime, sunrise or sunset.

Don’t limit yourself to the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset as you waste far too much of the day. You can take great pictures at any hour! For example, daytime can be just as good as sunset, especially if it is a cloudy day as the clouds complement the scene and can add drama.

Talybony-on-Usk, Brecon Beacons © Jeremy Flint

6. Focus

The last element to consider when looking to improve your landscapes is the focus. Ask yourself are you looking to get the entire landscape sharp or would you prefer a part of the image to be out of focus?

Using a wider depth of field enables your images to have front-to-back sharpness, whereas using a narrower depth of field renders the foreground or background out of focus. Applying the latter technique can be used for creative effect if you are looking to emphasize a particular part of your image, such as a prominent tree or object.

Conclusion

I recommend putting these tips into practice to see how they may help you improve your landscape photos and share the pictures you take with us below. What methods do you find help improve your landscape photography that you would like to share?

The post 6 Ways to Easily Improve Your Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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Eyeing post-Brexit landscape, Sony announces Amsterdam office will become new European HQ

24 Jan

According to a report from Nikkei Asian Review, Sony is moving its European headquarters from the United Kingdom (UK) to the Netherlands in an effort to avoid shipping and customs disruptions that are expected as a result of the UK leaving the European Union (EU).

In its report, Nikkei had the following to say regarding the transition:

‘The Japanese technology giant will merge England-based Sony Europe, which manages its European electronics business, into a new subsidiary in Amsterdam. The new entity will begin operations in April, after Brexit at the end of March, while the U.K. arm will continue to manage product imports and sales, with no personnel to be relocated.’

Nikkei notes Europe is a ‘crucial market’ for Sony, with a reported €14.5 / £12.7 / $ 16.5 billion in sales in the 2017 fiscal year — more than 20% of its total revenue.

The BBC also reported on Sony’s transition, saying:

‘In a statement Sony said the move would mean “we can continue our business as usual without disruption once the UK leaves the EU. All our existing European business functions, facilities, departments, sites and location of our people will remain unchanged from today.”’

Both reports note Sony isn’t alone in its transition. Electronics manufacturer and Sony rival Panasonic announced it too was making a move to Amsterdam in October 2018 due to tax issues as a result of the UK’s decision to leave the EU.


Update (January 23rd, 2019): Headline has been updated for clarity regarding the situation of Sony’s transition.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Edit Landscape and Nature Photos with the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask Features

05 Jan

The post How to Edit Landscape and Nature Photos with the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask Features appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Lightroom has always had a rich set of tools to allow photographers to get the most out of their images. However, until recently the ability to edit landscape and nature photos was a bit lacking.

While, global adjustments, like changing white balance and exposure have always worked great in Lightroom, fine-tuning edits can be problematic. Recent updates have seen incredible improvements to the Filter tools in Lightroom. An added tweak called Range Mask makes all the difference for photographers who need complete control over the precise implementation of their edits.

Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask

The three most common ways to edit specific parts of an image in Lightroom are through the use of the Graduated Filter, Radial Filter, and Adjustment Brush. If you want to smooth the skin on your portraits, increase the saturation of your skies, or change the color cast of your clouds these tools can be just the ticket. But what if you have a tree that sticks up into the sky or an uneven horizon dotted with buildings and power lines?

The usefulness of the filter tools is somewhat restricting when you want to limit your edits to particular sub-parts of a picture. Until recently the Auto-Mask option was the best way to confine your edits to certain colors or locations within an image. Landscape and nature photos are especially tricky because of the uneven edges and jagged borders that exist between sections of the photo that need editing. However, the Range Mask option solves almost all of these issues with ease.

How it works

To illustrate this, I’m going to walk you through the editing process of the following image. My brother Andy took it while he was on a tour of the swamps in Louisiana, USA, with his family last summer. The initial image has a nice composition but feels dull and uninteresting, which is a far cry from the real experience.

Adjusting White Balance with a Graduated Filter

One change to punch things up is altering the white balance of the sky to bring out the bright blues and make the image more vibrant.

The first step is to click over to the Graduated Filter panel. Dial in a white balance that skews more towards the cooler end of the spectrum and reduce the exposure just a bit. Next, click and drag from top to bottom on the image to put the filter in place.

The sky is now a rich blue, however, a big problem becomes evident: the color cast of the trees has changed too. This result is not what I want. Clicking the Show Selected Mask Overlay button in the bottom left corner under your image reveals that the graduated filter has been applied to everything including the trees as well as the sky.

Fine-tuning the Graduated Filter using the Range Mask

Fine-tuning a tool such as the Graduated Filter, used to involve a series of steps. These steps included brushing out the mask in places you didn’t want it in combination with the auto-mask feature. It worked, but results were often a little sketchy. They also required a great deal of tweaking and fine-tuning. That’s not to say the brush option is useless-far from it! I have an example later in this article that shows how useful it can be.

However, all this has changed in recent versions of Lightroom. You can now use the Range Mask to apply any of the three filter tools to specific parts of an image based on lightness or color similarity.

The default value for Range Mask is Off, but with one of your Filter adjustments selected you can then choose to enable Range Mask for Color, Luminance or Depth.

  • Color applies the filter to specific parts of the image based on how similar they are to color values that you select.
  • Luminance applies the filter to specific parts of the image based on how light or dark those parts are.
  • Depth works only with cameras that record depth information and applies the filter to specific parts of the image based on how close or how far away they are. Some mobile phones have this feature but most traditional cameras do not, so Depth will often be disabled unless you are editing images taken with certain mobile phones.

Range Mask – Color

For this image, I’m going to use the Color option, though Luminance works great in many nature and landscape photos as well.

With Color selected, you can either click and drag on your image to select a range of colors or can click multiple points by shift+clicking. This selection is where the mask gets applied. I find that shift+clicking generally works better, although your mileage may vary depending on your editing goals and the type of picture you are working with.

You can click up to five spots on the image to refine your color selection. Use the slider in the Range Mask panel to fine-tune things further. This slider hones the edges of your Range Mask. If you find that the border between the edited and unedited portions of your image is a bit stark, adjusting the Amount slider will help mitigate this issue.

The result of this one Gradient Filter, along with the Range Mask, is an image that is already much improved from the original.

Looking at a 100% crop of a portion of the image reveals just how precisely the Gradient Filter has been applied thanks to the Range Mask. Here is a portion from the top-right of the original unedited image.

Here is the same portion with the Gradient Filter applied, using the Range Mask to apply the Filter to only selected color ranges. In this case, the color of the sky.

Notice how precisely the edits were applied, and how intricate the edges around the tree leaves are. This illustrates why the Range Mask option is so useful for landscape and nature photos. There are many tricky edges and small parts of the image that can take a very long time to fix without it.

Range Mask – Luminance

Another way to use the Range Mask is with the Luminance option. This option only applies the mask to the brightest or the darkest portions of the Gradient, or other Filter, that’s applied.

The overall idea here is the same, but the implementation is a tad different. Instead of selecting colors where you want the Range Mask applied, you use the Range sliders to concentrate the mask on the lightest, darkest or mid-range parts. One of the most useful things here is the Show Luminance Mask box which gives you a real-time preview of where your mask application. This helps you as you are adjusting the sliders.

Here’s an image I shot while hiking in the mountains near Seattle. It’s not bad, but a few edits would help improve the picture. Edits may help it look a little closer to how it appeared when my wife and I were tromping around in the wilderness that day with my cousin.

I want to bring out the color in the foreground trees in this image. A Graduated Filter with Luminance Range Mask is perfect in this scenario because the edits can be applied just to the darker portions of the image. With the filter in place and the mask tweaked to be applied only to the darker parts, I can ensure my edits are going to show up just where I want them to by checking the Show Luminance Mask option.

Fine-tuning using Brush

As demonstrated above, the Range Mask is extremely useful for nature and landscape photographers. It applies the Graduated Filter to just the right portions of the image and not the entire picture evenly. If you want to customize your Graduated Filter further, click the Brush option (not the Brush Adjustment Tool) and proceed to add to, or erase, the Filter wherever you want.

In this case, I’d like to remove the Graduated Filter from the lake in the foreground. Even though I can tell from my Luminance Mask overlay that it’s not being applied too heavily to that area, removing all traces of it with the brush will help me get the exact picture I want.

The end result is a photo with much warmer green tones in the trees and a lake that reflects the blue sky above, which is just the look I was aiming for.

Conclusion

Hopefully, these examples give you an idea of how powerful the combination of Graduated Filters and Range Masks are for nature and landscape photographers. I’m always eager to hear from the DPS community. Have you found this particular tool useful? Are there any other tips you’d like to share about using the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask? Leave your thoughts in the comment section below.

The post How to Edit Landscape and Nature Photos with the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask Features appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos

04 Jan

The post These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

Mark Harpur

These landscape photographers are taking some inspirational photos.

We thought we’d share these with you to get you inspired to go out and take some fantastic landscape images. They are in no particular order.

1. Rach Stewart

 

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2. Daniel Greenwood

 

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3. Jacob Moon

 

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4. Daniel Tran

 

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5. Jay Vulture

 

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6. Warren Keelan

 

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7. Gergo Rugli

 

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8. Mads Peter Iversen

 

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9. John Weatherby

 

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10. Tony Hewitt

 

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Who inspires you? Let us know in the comments below.

The post These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2018

28 Dec

The post The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2018 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week on dPS we’re featuring some of the top articles in different categories that were published on the site over 2018.

We’ve already shown you the Top All-Round Photography Tips, the Top Photography Gear Tips, and the Top Post-Processing Photography Tips of 2018.

This one is all about the best landscape photography tips of the year.

Here are the top landscape photography tips articles of 2018:

1. How to Choose the Right ISO for Landscape Photography

How to Choose the Right ISO for Landscape Photography

2. Tips for Shooting Landscape Photography Towards the Sun

Tips for Shooting Landscape Photography Towards the Sun

3. 5 Tricks to Make Your Landscape Photos Stand Out

5 Tricks to Make Your Landscape Photos Stand Out

4. 3 Techniques and Tips for Photographing the Moon in the Landscape

3 Techniques and Tips for Photographing the Moon in the Landscape

5. 7 Tips to Help You Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

7 Tips to Help You Capture the Perfect Landscape Photo

6. How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos – 4 Steps

How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos – 4 Steps

7. Tips for Shooting Landscapes With a Telephoto Lens

Tips for Shooting Landscapes With a Telephoto Lens

8. Using Layers and Foreground Interest for Better Landscape Photography

Using Layers and Foreground Interest for Better Landscape Photography

9. Understanding Aperture and Landscape Photography – Why F16 Isn’t the Only Choice

Understanding Aperture and Landscape Photography – Why F16 Isn’t the Only Choice

10. Getting Started with Landscape Photography – 4 Easy Tips for Beginners

Getting Started with Landscape Photography – 4 Easy Tips for Beginners

11. How to Add a Sense of Scale to Your Landscape Photos

How to Add a Sense of Scale to Your Landscape Photos

12. 5 Landscape Photography Mistakes That Keep Your Images From Standing Out

5 Landscape Photography Mistakes That Keep Your Images From Standing Out

13. Beginner’s Guide to Natural Light in Landscape Photography

Beginner’s Guide to Natural Light in Landscape Photography

14. How to Work with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

How to Work with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

15. 7 Landscape Photography Tips You’ll Wish You Knew Earlier

7 Landscape Photography Tips You’ll Wish You Knew Earlier

Next up, we’ll show you the dPS Top Portrait Photography Tips of 2018.

The post The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2018 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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10 of the Best Wide Angle Lens for Landscape Photography

13 Dec

There’s a reason that wide-angles are the go-to lens of choice for most landscape photographers. With their ability to get the bigger picture –wide-angles are perfect for capturing sweeping landscapes, adding depth and dimension to an image, and drawing the viewer into the scene. Wide-angles certainly offer a number of benefits for landscape photographers –compositions that include plenty of interesting Continue Reading

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How to Take Better Winter Landscape Photos

01 Nov

Winter is personally my least favorite time of year – it’s cold, it’s depressing, there’s barely any sun out. But one thing that even I have to admit is that winter landscapes make for positively fantastic photographs – if you know how to approach them.  There are a couple of issues that even amateur photographers will notice when they take Continue Reading

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How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

31 Oct

A tripod is an essential piece of equipment for a landscape photographer. Sure, you won’t always need to use it. But you’ll find yourself in situations where it can help you capture a high-quality image you wouldn’t be able to get otherwise.

But how do you choose the right tripod? There are hundreds (if not thousands) of options out there, with prices ranging from $ 10 to more than $ 1,000. How do you know which one will best suit your needs? Should you just go for the most expensive tripod you can find? It must be the best, right?

Not necessarily.

Why You Need a Tripod

Before we get into the best options for you, I want to go over a few key reasons why you need a tripod.

Tripods are essential for capturing razor-sharp images, especially in low-light situations where you want to keep your ISO low.

While increasing the ISO lets you use a quicker shutter speed, it can introduce unwanted grain/noise and reduce the overall quality of your image. But keeping the ISO low means you’ll need a longer shutter speed. (Yes, you can adjust the aperture. But I won’t be talking about that here).

Capturing a sharp image using a shutter speed of 1/10th of a second or slower with a handheld camera is almost impossible. It’s very difficult to avoid any camera movement which, with such a slow shutter speed, means you’ll introduce some blur into the image.

How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

Mounting the camera on a tripod lets you use slower shutter speeds and still capture sharp images. The camera sits still on the tripod, so you don’t have to worry about the motion of you holding it.

Using a tripod also allows you to use even slower shutter speeds and capture long exposures (i.e. images that make use of extra slow shutter speeds).

What to Consider Before Buying a Tripod

The first tripods I bought were cheap $ 20 aluminum models from the local electronic shop. While most photographers start with such a tripod, I strongly advise you not to buy one. For landscape photography, they simply won’t do a good job. In some situations, they may even do more harm than goods. These also break more easily than something of a higher quality.

So what should you consider before purchasing your next tripod? Here are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Price and quality (i.e. what does your budget allow?)
  • Flexibility
  • Weight (aluminum vs carbon)

Taking these topics into account before you buy will make it easier to find the best one for your needs.

1. Price

The first thing most of us consider is the price. Photography equipment is rarely cheap, and if you want quality you need to pay for it. As I said earlier, a tripod can cost you anything from $ 10 to several thousand. But are more expensive tripods necessarily better?

In general, yes. A $ 1,000 tripod will outperform a $ 200 tripod in most tests. But that doesn’t mean it’s the right one for you. Ask yourself what you need. What type of photography do you do? Do you need the most expensive model? For most people, the answer is no.

Chances are a mid-range ($ 200) tripod will be more than adequate and perform perfectly in most scenarios.

2. Flexibility / Height

What about the specs? Should you choose a short one or a tall one? Can the legs spread wide, or are they locked into a fixed position? Flip-lock or twist-lock?

Let’s start with the height. In most situations, you won’t need a tall tripod. But there may well come a time where you need that extra leg length. Is it worth paying extra for? If you often find yourself in rivers, rocks or rugged seascapes, then yes. But if you’re not into extreme landscape photography and mount your tripod on flat and stable ground instead, I wouldn’t bother.

While a tall tripod is nice, it’s also nice to have one that lets you get close to the ground. For this image, the tripod held my camera just a few centimeters off the ground, which allowed me to get extra close to the flowers.

How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

So what’s more important to you? Having a tall tripod, or being able to take photographs from a low perspective?

The good news is that some of the more expensive tripods can give you both. While they can stand close to two meters tall, they can also lay more or less flat on the ground for those extremely low perspective shots. 

3. Weight

The final thing to consider is the tripod’s weight. This is important, especially if you head out on long hikes to reach particular destinations. Your backpack can get quite heavy once you add all the gear you need, so the last thing you want is unnecessary weight from a tripod.

Now, a lightweight tripod doesn’t necessarily mean a low-quality tripod. In fact, some of the best tripods out there are lightweight. You just need to make sure they’re sturdy and can support the weight of your camera. However, these tripods are rarely cheap and are often found in the higher end of the price range.

If you’re an avid hiker and tend to go a long way to photograph your subjects, I strongly recommend looking into a lightweight carbon-fiber tripod. These tripods are just as sturdy (if not more sturdy) than the heavier aluminum alternatives.

How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography

But if you’re not into hiking, weight might not be such an issue. In fact, if you photograph in rough conditions you may prefer the extra weight. When photographing beaches in Arctic Norway I depend on having a sturdy tripod that won’t break when hit by waves or move when the waves are receding. In these situations, a low-quality travel tripod is far from ideal. Even strong winds can make these tripods vibrate, leading to blurry images. A heavy and solid tripod is a much better option.

What types of landscapes do you normally photograph? And what do you need to capture those scenes?

Which Tripod is Best for You?

Unfortunately, I can’t answer this question for you. It really depends on who you are and the kinds of photographs you take. But when you’re ready to buy one, consider what I’ve talked about and ask yourself what you need. Do you need a light tripod you can easily bring on long hikes? Do you need a sturdy tripod that can handle wind and rough conditions? Perhaps you need a combination of the two.

And what about the price? Do you really need the most expensive model, or will a medium-priced alternative do the job?

Answering these questions should help you narrow down the options, and help you find the tripod that is best for you.

Personally, I have two tripods: a lightweight travel tripod I can bring on long hikes, and my main tripod that’s a little heavier (and more expensive) but solid enough to use in even the roughest Arctic conditions.

Let us know what tripod you ended up choosing. We’d love to hear about it.

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Why Goal Planning Is the Key to Growing as a Landscape Photographer

09 Oct

“I invest so much time in my landscape photography, but can’t tell how much I’m improving or even where I’ll be in a year. I think I’m getting better, but slowly and haphazardly.”

Do you have a strategy for becoming a better photographer? What areas do you want to improve in over the next few weeks? Most of us learn passively, but what if you could get more out of every shoot and see progress in months instead of years?

It starts with being intentional – something we don’t often practice in the day-to-day.

Taking an active role can double your learning speed. And it starts by setting measurable goals and introspecting your photos – and yourself – often.

Sella Towers, Dolomites, Italy

Brunate Lago Di Como, Italy

A couple of years ago I wasn’t noticing much improvement in my photography. It was definitely there, but it happened slowly and I didn’t have a clear direction of how I wanted to improve in the future.

Fast forward to my last trip to Oregon, where I made a point of applying some goal planning and retrospectives before, during and after the shoot. I learned more in two weeks than I had in two years, and brought back some of my favorite photos to date.

Mt Bachelor, Cascade Lakes Bend, Oregon

Smith Rock Bend, Oregon

Maybe you’ve heard of objectives and key results (OKRs) or ‘being results-oriented’ from managers or personal trainers. They seem like fuzzy topics, but there’s nothing more empowering than charting your own course to improvement.

I couldn’t be happier with the improvement I noticed while peeking at photos from just two years ago. Whether it’s a cursory glance or a deeper artistic critique, I can see measurable improvement that directly correlates with intentional goal planning.

And it’s not just the keeper shots that have improved. I shoot noticeably fewer photos (more of which end up being keepers), and it takes less editing for me to finish them up.

Here’s how you can take an active role in charting your own improvement as a landscape photographer.

1. Document Your Objectives

Have you stopped to ask yourself why you’re a landscape photographer in the first place? Your “Why?” doesn’t have to be etched in stone, but it will guide how you invest your time and money into growing.

Here are some example objectives. “I invest time in my landscape photography because:”

  • “I love to travel.”
  • “I want to make a full-time living.”
  • “I want to capture unique locations.”
  • “I want to grow my local following.”
  • “I want to be the best in my craft.”

You probably have several objectives in mind, so the next step is to prioritize them. Which objective(s) trumps the others in the competition for your time? Objectives are critical because they help us identify conflicts of interest. Once you start formulating goals, you want to ensure they naturally support your objective.

For example, you may be a landscape photographer because you love traveling, but your goal is to sell prints to local condos. These may well clash with each other, as marketing your work to local businesses would mean less freedom to travel. You may need to find another way to support your wanderlust – even if it’s unrelated to photography.

2. Formulate Effective Goals

Setting a goal often has a disheartening tone. We’ve all made goals or resolutions that yielded no results other than self-reproach. “Oh, I didn’t lose 10 pounds.” “I didn’t write half as much as I wanted.”

Self-reproach is often a symptom of a poorly chosen goal. Effective goals aren’t about slapping yourself for missing them. They’re about deliberately deciding how you want to invest your time and resources. It’s about determining the trajectory you want to take instead of floating with the fluctuations of each day.

Here are two of my personal goals:

  1. Capture and produce better photography
  2. Expand my photography audience

But while these goals capture a general direction, they aren’t concrete. So I like to follow them up with more specific formulations for what success looks like.

  1. Expand portfolio with shots that have a compelling foreground, middleground and background.
  2. Write for two new publications.

3. Apply and Adapt Shoot Goals

Along with your general goals and results, set specific goals for each landscape photography trip. I often source my shoot goals from notes I took in the field, or frustrations I faced in post production.

On my last trip to Ireland and the UK, I set some goals that I reread during each shoot:

  • Create a sense of depth with fog and haze
  • Root the image with stronger foregrounds
  • Consciously identify shapes in the composition
  • Capture the energy in water and clouds with long exposures
  • Take 20% fewer photos with a higher ratio of winners
  • Shoot more verticals to emphasize height

Man-O-War Bay, Dorset, England

South Stack Lighthouse, Wales

Referencing these goals when I hit the field bumps me out of my status quo. Over the past two years, I’ve found that most of my measurable growth as an artist came from setting and intentionally applying shoot goals.

4. Break Goals into Results

Objectives give you direction. Goals give you outcomes. But neither tells you how to accomplish them or how much progress you’ve made towards them. That’s where results come in.

How will you accomplish your goals? You can’t. They’re too big, and say nothing about what actions you should take. To reach your goals, they need to be broken down into small, measurable steps called results – small tasks you can complete in no more than a day. A well-formulated result must measurably contribute towards the overall goal.

Results need to be carefully phrased so they reflect tangible outcomes. For example:

  • “Edit for one hour every day.”
  • “Spend 30 minutes writing about photography.”

These results are ineffective because they involve time. Who cares whether you spent 30 minutes editing or three hours? Instead, phrase them in terms of tangible outcomes:

  • “Finish a rough edit of three photos today.”
  • “Finish outlining my upcoming photography post.”

Each of these results produces something of value – edited photos and an outlined post – and can be completed in one sitting. And the faster you complete each result, the sooner you can move on to other things.

Breaking down goals into results is hard to do in any field, whether it’s productivity, photography or software development. And it’s the number one reason we fail to accomplish anything.

Don’t tackle a goal and plan as you go. Planning and execution are two different skills. And when we do them simultaneously we ironically spend the least time on the hardest part: planning. It sounds counterintuitive, but once I break the goal into results, executing them is usually the easiest part.

What about self-imposed deadlines? Personally I’ve had limited success with them because time is a poor measure of progress. I sketch out a rough timeline (“by this time next year”), but I keep those dates with my goals instead of my results. As long as my results are prioritized, deadlines are often arbitrary because I’m always working on the most valuable results.

How are you spending your time so each minute counts? Results are the answer, not time.

5. Do a Retrospective

The learning doesn’t end after a shoot. In fact, I learn the most by reviewing photographs from the shoot that didn’t quite work out. It sounds counterintuitive, but thanks to a cognitive bias called survival bias we tend to:

  • overestimate what we can learn from successful shots
  • underestimate what we can learn from shots that didn’t make the cut.

Consequently, we end up discarding our best source of learning material.

To beat survivorship bias, conduct a retrospective on some of your failed shots to understand why they didn’t work, and what you’ll do differently next time.

Slea Head, Dingle, Ireland

None of my shots from Slea Head on Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula worked out. But later in the trip I applied the lessons I learned about S-curve placement and busy water textures to capture a shot of Loch Garry in the Scottish Highlands.

Loch Garry, Scotland

Retrospectives are incredibly effective at distilling lessons that will set your next shoot up for success. And they often form my shoot goals for the next trip. On this year’s trip to Oregon, my goals changed to reflect the lessons I learned from Ireland and the UK:

  • Capture two stunning images per day for a total of 26 from the trip.
  • Identify the emotion of a scene, then highlight it with composition and light.
  • Spend 30% less time snapping photos, and instead spend it testing compositions.
  • Shoot exclusively at dawn and twilight, and spend the rest of the day trying compositions on my smartphone.
  • Use an ND filter for water without exception.
  • Identify a strong foreground, middleground, and background before snapping.
  • Don’t waste a second on angles filled with busy textures.

I would have forgotten many of these shoot goals if I hadn’t written them down and reviewed them before each shoot. Being intentional paid off. As I said earlier, I learned more in two weeks than I had in two years of shooting, and produced some of my favorite work to date.

Roads End, Oregon

Chart Your Course to Improvement Intentionally

While goal planning comes in many flavors and terminologies, they all share the goal of helping individuals connect desired outcomes with strategic actions. The key to accelerated growth is to learn intentionally, not passively.

Spend a few minutes over coffee today to document why you are a landscape photographer, what you want to become, and how you will accomplish it. Whether you’re in the field, post production, or an office crunching through tangential work, goal planning will ensure you’re investing your time well and learning as much as possible from your efforts.

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7 Landscape Photography Tips You’ll Wish You Knew Earlier

08 Sep

Landscape photographer Nigel Danson has been reflecting on his time as a professional landscape photographer and has come up with 7 things that he wishes he knew when he first started out on his photographic journey.

Unfortunately for Danson, he’s not able to go back in time and tutor himself. But luckily for us, we’re able to learn from these key moments in his career without spending many years getting to those milestones!

“Recently, looking back at some photos I took over 10 years ago, it made me realize how far I’ve come as a photographer.” says Danson. “It made me think about the things I’ve learned over the last 10 or 15 years.”

Landscape photography can be a tricky art to master, and experience in the field is definitely your friend. But hopefully, these tips and tricks will help you to improve your shots in an instant and give you that boost you need to keep your photography developing.

Summary of the 7 Simple Tips to Improve Your Landscapes

  1. Use Aperture Priority Mode
  2. Master the Histogram
  3. Learn to Focus Properly
  4. Simplify Your Images
  5. Use Different Lenses and Stick with Your Camera
  6. Think About Where You’re Standing
  7. Learn and Use Lighting to Your Advantage

Have you got any landscape images you’ve shot recently? Share them with us in the comments below!

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