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Posts Tagged ‘Images’

Video: Photographer Sean Tucker on recoloring images using Photoshop

22 Feb

Photographer and filmmaker Sean Tucker has published a new video teaching viewers how to accurately recolor their images using Gradient Maps in Adobe Photoshop. The process involves selecting the objects to be recolored using the Pen Tool, then using the Gradient Maps to choose the target colors and transform the selections.

The new tutorial, which is approximately 20 minutes long, joins Tucker’s other videos, which include everything from discussions on ‘law and ethics in street photography’ to tutorials related to street photography, editing portraits in Photoshop, color grading footage and more.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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DIY: How to Create a Coffee-Stained Texture for Aging Images in Photoshop

21 Feb

The post DIY: How to Create a Coffee-Stained Texture for Aging Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

coffee-stained-texture-in-photoshop

As a kid, I remember coffee-staining scrap paper to create ancient maps that marked out treasure in the backyard. Nowadays, I’ve discovered that the same process can be great for photography projects too. With help from Photoshop, experimenting with textural layers is a great way to introduce an aged look to your images. But sometimes it can be hard to get a hold of quality textures on the internet. That’s where a bit of DIY comes in. By making your own coffee-stained texture, you can create seemingly aged canvases, which can then be applied to your images.

coffee granules

What you’ll need:

  • 1/4 cup of instant coffee granules
  • 1 teaspoon
  • a damp cloth, sponge or paper towel
  • a few pieces of white paper (I use plain old sheets of A4 copy paper. While copy paper does pucker when water is introduced to it, I think it adds to the overall aged effect. Plus, it’s less expensive than good art paper!)

How to coffee-stain paper

  1. First, lay out your sheets of paper on a wipeable surface. I prefer to work on the kitchen bench.
  2. Sprinkle some instant coffee on your sheets of paper – about a teaspoon per sheet.
  3. With a damp cloth, sponge or paper towel, begin to press the instant coffee granules into the paper. As the coffee moistens, you can start to spread the granules around the paper with broader strokes. The more varied the strokes, the rougher the effect will be.
  4. You can add more coffee and a little water if you need it. The more coffee you add, the darker the coffee-stained paper will turn out. You can even leave some partially-dissolved coffee granules on the page.
  5. Once you coat the paper, place the sheets somewhere safe and leave them to dry for a few hours.
  6. Sometimes the drying process can lighten the stained effect somewhat. If this happens, add more coffee and water to darken the paper further.

Here’s my result:

coffee stained texture paper

How to apply coffee-stained textures in Photoshop

Once your coffee-stained paper is dry, scan or photograph the page/s and save the files somewhere handy on your computer.

Next, open an image in Photoshop. This will be the image we’ll apply the coffee-stained texture to. I went with the image below:

flower original image

1/100 of a second f/4.5 ISO 100

With your chosen image open, add a Black & White Adjustment Layer by clicking the Black & White icon in the Adjustments panel (the names of the icons appear when you rest your mouse on them).

If you can’t see the Adjustments panel, select Window from the top toolbar and then click on Adjustments. The Black & White Adjustment Layer will non-destructively convert your image to black and white.

black and white

black and white adjustments

Toggle the Black & White Adjustment Layer settings until you are satisfied with your image.

Next, with the Black & White Adjustment Layer selected in the Layers panel, click File from the top toolbar. Then select Place… and locate and select the coffee-stained image file.

The coffee-stained texture layer will be imported over your original image.

placing coffee-stained texture

If needed, adjust the dimensions of the coffee-stained image by dragging its corners to completely cover the entirety of the canvas.

With the coffee-stained texture selected in the Layers panel, click on the Blending Modes drop-down menu located within the layers panel. Set the Blending Mode to either Overlay or Soft Light. Overlay is a bit harsher in contrast than Soft Light, so test out both options before settling on one.

blending modes panel

coffee stained texture overlay blending mode

Next, select the coffee-stained texture layer and click on the Curves icon in the Adjustment Layers panel. Adjust the Curves settings until you are happy with the overall contrast of your image.

coffee-stained texture curves adjustment

At this point, you can refine the Black & White Adjustment Layer further or even add additional coffee-stained layers to increase the intensity of the aged effect.

This is my finished result…

coffee-textures overlay final result

Here are two more images I’ve attempted to age a little with the same method…

coffee-stained textures travel landscape

coffee-stained texture aircraft stearman

What do you think? Up for a cuppa? If you’ve given the coffee-stained texture method a try, be sure to share your results in the comments!

The post DIY: How to Create a Coffee-Stained Texture for Aging Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Sony World Photography Awards receives backlash over alleged censorship of Hong Kong protest images

20 Feb

Update (Wednesday, February 19th): it appears that the galleries are available to the public again. However, Chung Ming’s more sensitive images are not displayed.


The 2020 Sony World Photography Awards recently removed active links to images from three separate finalists due to their ‘sensitive nature.’ Ko Chung Ming’s Wounds of Hong Kong, David Butow’s Battleground Hong Kong and Adam Ferguson’s Hong Kong Protestors series are still in the running to win an award. However, links to their work have been deactivated on the World Photography Organization’s (WPO) website, a move that’s raised concerns about possible censorship.

‘We have temporarily taken down the images as part of a standard process which we have to put in place for these type of cases, until we are able to review everything in further detail,’ the WPO said.

Chung Ming first noticed the link to his series, which was nominated in the Documentary category, was broken on Friday. Initially he thought it was a site error. It was only when he tried to view Butow and Ferguson’s series, and received the same ‘404 Page not found’ message, that he realized the WPO was purposely concealing imagery that revealed the brutal reality of the Hong Kong protests.

“We have temporarily taken down the images as part of a standard process which we have to put in place for these type of cases, until we are able to review everything in further detail.”

‘I don’t know who’s complaining and what their concerns are. But why should any ‘concerns’ not be addressed by the judges at the judging phase?’ asked Chung Ming in a response to HKFP. ‘As long as the final result is up to the jury’s professional judgement, I wouldn’t say there’s censorship,’ he added.

As of Tuesday, the ‘404 page not found’ error was still popping up on Chung Ming’s series. On Wednesday, the link was redirected to a ‘Protected Page’ where login credentials were needed in order to view his work. A recent post on Chung-ming’s Facebook account elicited uniform comments of disappointment in the WPO.

‘Photos taken during a war right in the war zone has won numerous awards, but I’ve never seen any of those labeled “sensitive nature.” Anyway thanks so much for your effort and your truthful recording.’ said Sam Si. ‘Worse and much more “sensitive” stuff has been put on WPO before, and the fact that they’re on targeting Hong Kong related photography seriously calls into question the integrity of the organisation.’ adds Galax Chen.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon launches ‘image.canon,’ a new cloud platform for managing and sharing images

14 Feb

Canon has launched a new cloud-based image platform designed for use by select Canon device owners. With the new image.canon service, photographers can have images automatically forwarded from their camera to their computer, mobile device and supported third-party services like Google Drive. The service is free to use and stores images on Canon’s own server.

Put simply, image.canon allows some Canon camera and SELPHY printer owners to register a Canon ID and then use the service to wirelessly transfer images from their supported device to Canon’s cloud platform. From there, the images can then be forwarded to third-party services, a computer and mobile devices.

The platform supports all of the image formats offered by compatible Canon cameras; users can connect an unlimited number of cameras to the service. Likewise, Canon doesn’t have any restrictions on image size or the number of images that can be transferred, though the company says there may be instances where uploads are restricted for ‘operational reasons.’

Image.canon stores the uploaded original images for 30 days, after which they will be deleted from the server. Thumbnails of the images will remain and only be deleted if the user doesn’t use the service for an entire year. The company also offers users 10GB for long-term image storage beyond 30 days. Support for forwarding images to Adobe Creative Cloud and Google Photos won’t arrive until later this summer.

Canon’s new cloud service will officially launch in April 2020.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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High-resolution telescope images show Sun’s surface in ‘unprecedented detail’

01 Feb
‘This image covers an area 8,200 x 8,200 km (5,000 x 5,000 miles, 11 x 11 arcseconds).’ — Credit: NSO/AURA/NSF

The Daniel K. Inouye Solar Telescope has produced high-resolution images that show the Sun in ‘unprecedented detail,’ according to an announcement from the National Science Foundation (NSF). The telescope is located close to the summit of Maui’s Haleakala volcano. Each of the ‘cell-like structures’ visible in the images and video are approximately as large as Texas, according to NSF.

Understanding the Sun is an important step toward improving space weather forecasts, which will help humanity anticipate potentially disruptive events. The Inouye Solar Telescope is a key tool that will shed light on a number of the Sun’s mysteries. According to the NSF, having hours of advanced notice about potential space weather events will give officials time to put satellites and important infrastructure like power grids into safe mode.

The Inouye Solar Telescope features a massive 4m (13ft) mirror and more than 11km (7 miles) of piping as part of the cooling system that protects the telescope and its optics. The NSF explains that Inouye feature’s adaptive optics designed with an off-axis mirror placement that compensates for the blur that would otherwise result from the Earth’s atmosphere.

Astrophysicist and cosmologist Katie Mack chimed in on the above video, sharing a fun little anecdote about how the forces at work on the sun can be seen here on Earth in everyday life:

Ultimately, the Inouye Solar Telescope has the largest aperture of any solar telescope in the world, according to director Thomas Rimmele. The first half-decade of the telescope’s operation is expected to produce more solar data than humanity has generated in the past few hundred years.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images)

30 Jan

The post Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

fujifilm-jpg-film-simulations-guide

When I first bought a Fujifilm Finepix X100 in 2012, I was absolutely stunned by the quality of the images it produced. As the first iteration in Fujifilm’s lineup of excellent fixed-lens compact cameras, it paved the way for the rest of the X-series lineup with its excellent optics and fantastic usability.

What impressed me the most, perhaps, was the quality of the JPGs that the camera produced – they were lightyears ahead of anything I’d seen with other camera systems.

In this article, I will introduce you to the commonly available Fujifilm JPG film simulations, including the characteristics of each one and when you might like to use them.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations

I still have an X100 – but this is the latest iteration in the series, the X100F.

Fujifilm history of film

Fujifilm has been a leader in the photographic industry for decades. Not only are they world leaders in optics, but they are also the biggest producer of instant film and cameras left in the market.

In the heyday of film, they were also one of the leading brands for the production of 35mm and 120 films, making film emulsions loved by photographers everywhere. Some of these famous film stocks (Acros and Fuji Pro 400 H) still exist.

Fujifilm took their color science know-how from the film days and created a range of film simulations for their digital cameras that feature a very high level of color accuracy and reproduction.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations

You can easily choose the Fujifilm film simulations via a button on the back of X-Series camera bodies.

Do all cameras have all Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

No, the Fujifilm JPG film simulations available to your X-Series camera depend on the model and the firmware updates you have applied. Although the number of film simulations has grown over the years with the release of new generations of cameras and sensors, new film simulations don’t always roll out to older model cameras.

For example, it is rumored that the newest film simulation launched with the X-Pro 3 – Classic Negative – will be rolled out to cameras, including the X-T3 and X-T30, very soon via a firmware update.

This is part of Fujifilm’s ongoing improvements they make to their cameras and lenses.

How can I shoot with Fujifilm JPG film simulations?

First of all, you’ll need an X-Series camera body. Next, you need to set it up to shoot JPGs.

When you do this, the default setting to shoot with is the Provia film simulation. This setting will be applied to all the JPGs produced until you change it. You can easily do that via a button on the back of your camera body, where you can cycle through all available options.

It’s fun to change the film simulations to see what different effects they give you. Another reason why I love mirrorless cameras is that you can even see the effect each film simulation will have through the viewfinder and on the LCD screen – very helpful.

Can I change the film simulation after I’ve shot a JPG?

No, once you shoot the JPG with that film simulation, you can’t change it. So if you’re only shooting JPGs, make sure you’ve selected one that will complement your subject, or shoot JPG+RAW.

Image: You can even convert RAW images to JPG with Fujifilm JPG film simulations in-camera, but that...

You can even convert RAW images to JPG with Fujifilm JPG film simulations in-camera, but that’s a topic for another day.

Can I apply a Fujifilm JPG film simulation if I shoot RAW?

Yes, there are a couple of different ways you can do this after you have taken an image. The first is using software such as Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. The second is by applying the simulation to a RAW file in the camera after you’ve taken it. This is something that often surprises X-Series users. Yes, you can actually process your RAW files as different film simulations in-camera.

Introduction to the Fujifilm JPG film simulations

Provia

Provia was the name of Fujifilm’s most popular color transparency (slide) film. With its medium contrast and saturation, this is the most neutral film simulation and is suited to most genres of photography. It’s the default film simulation on X-Series cameras and is also labeled as “standard” in the menu.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-provia

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Provia JPG. There are some noticeable differences over the RAW file, such as higher contrast and more saturation.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Provia JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Provia JPG.

Velvia

Velvia was the nature photographer’s go-to film back in the film heyday. It’s bold colors brought to life the natural world. Velvia’s high contrast and high saturation make it a winning formula for wildlife and landscapes, though it’s one to avoid for portraits.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-velvia

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Velvia JPG. Velvia is showing its rich colors here, with both the greens and the blues highly saturated.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Velvia JPG. Skin tones look too saturated and unnatura...

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Velvia JPG. Skin tones look too saturated and unnatural, so this is best avoided for portraits.

Astia

This is another simulation named after a slide film, in this case, the film that was very popular among portrait and fashion photographers. Astia is known for its softer colors and contrast, giving a more subdued look overall with beautiful tones. I quite often use this simulation for shooting portraits.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-astia

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Astia JPG. Great tones and colors, though slightly subdued.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Asita JPG. Lovely colors and tones, though they are no...

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Asita JPG. Lovely colors and tones, though they are not over the top.

Classic Chrome

This Fujifilm JPG film simulation is not based on a classic film emulsion. Instead, Fujifilm developed it to emulate the look of classic documentary-style photography.

Classic Chrome has lower color saturation and full-bodied tones, giving it a distinctive look. Skies look different with this simulation, as it removes magenta. Reds and greens also appear quite unique.

Many street photographers seem to use this film simulation if they are shooting color for a raw, edgier look.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-classic-chrome

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Classic Chrome JPG. Look at the difference between the sky and the grass in these shots.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Classic Chrome JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Classic Chrome JPG.

Pro Neg Hi

Pro Neg Hi is ideal for portraits with slightly enhanced contrast, especially when contrasted against Pro Neg Standard. Modeled after Fujifilm’s most popular print film for portraits, Fuji Pro 400H, it’s the film simulation I most use for portraits (alongside Astia).

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-pro-neg-hi

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg High JPG.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Hi JPG. I love the colors, contrast, and tones...

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Hi JPG. I love the colors, contrast, and tones of this film simulation.

Pro Neg Std

This is another of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations that is ideal for portraits. It simulates NS160, a professional color negative film for studio portraiture. It has softer graduations and skin tones, especially when compared to Pro Neg High.

For best results, use it with creative lighting choices, or you may end up with a flat, boring-looking image.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-pro-neg-st

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Pro Neg Standard JPG. The tonality of this image is quite soft compared to others.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Std JPG. Out of the box, it produces a flatter...

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Pro Neg Std JPG. Out of the box, it produces a flatter file with softer colors and tonality.

Acros

Fujifilm’s classic black and white emulsion brought to life digitally with rich details and excellent sharpness. Fujifilm claims that this film simulation matches the tonal range and even the film grain of its analog offering, which is quite impressive.

You even have the ability with the Acros film simulation to apply yellow, red, and green filters in-camera.

The red filter gives more contrast and a dramatic feel. The yellow filter seems more subtle. The green filters seem to work best when photographing people.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-acros

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG.

Image: Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Acros JPG.

Top: Kids in a filed RAW file. Bottom: Acros JPG.

Image: Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the red filter. Red filters have long bee...

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the red filter. Red filters have long been used in black and white photography to increase contrast and make images look more dramatic.

Image: Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the green filter.

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Acros JPG with the green filter.

Monochrome

This was the original black and white Fujifilm JPG film simulation on X-Series cameras until Acros came along. Many people bypass it completely, choosing to create black and white images in post.

As with Acros, there are three variants for this mode; you can add a red, yellow, or green filter.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-monochrome

Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Monochrome JPG.

Sepia

Sepia gives your image a reddish-brown look to mimic the feel of a vintage photo. I’m not sure why anyone would use this filter, but each to their own.

your-guide-to-fujifilm-film-simulations-sepia

Left: Isle of Wight RAW file. Right: Sepia JPG.

 

Conclusion

I hope you have enjoyed this introduction to the world of Fujifilm JPG film simulations. Fujifilm produces the best straight-out-of-camera JPGs from any camera manufacturer. The ability to choose a Fujifilm JPG film simulation, many based on classic film emulsions, is the icing on the cake.

I’ve loved playing around with different looks to my images over the years. The ability to see through the viewfinder or LCD is incredible.

Which is your favorite of the Fujifilm JPG film simulations? Share with us in the comments.

The post Your Guide to the Fujifilm JPG Film Simulations (with Sample Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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GANPaint Studio uses neural network to ‘paint’ new elements into images

24 Jan

A team of researchers with IBM Research, MIT CSAIL and MIT-IBM Watson AI Lab has launched a new online tool called GANPaint Studio that utilizes a GAN neural network and semantic brushes to ‘draw’ entirely new elements into existing images. In the case of this particular tool, the elements include grass, clouds, brick, doors, trees, sky and domes.

Unedited before image.

As demonstrated in the images above and below, GANPaint Studio is more of a fun demonstration rather than a serious tool for modifying images. The input images are stripped down to a very low resolution when uploaded; the resulting images are clearly edited, though the neural network is capable of some surprisingly realistic edits.

After adding grass, trees and clouds.

In addition to drawing elements into the images, the tool also features an eraser icon that, when clicked, enables the user to erase elements from the input image. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen a demonstration of a neural network capable of producing realistic elements in an image using a basic ‘drawing’ tool.

In March 2019, for example, NVIDIA Research demonstrated a similar tool it calls GauGAN to generate a photorealistic image from a series of crudely painted marks, each mark made to represent types of elements like water, trees and sky. NVIDIA has published a sizeable body of research on AI and its potential for generating photorealistic images.

As for GANPaint Studio, anyone can access the photo editor here; it comes populated with a selection of preloaded images, but users also have the option of uploading their own image. While using the tool, we found that the images need to be at a fairly low resolution, such as 800 x 500, for the editor to successfully upload the input image.

The MIT and IBM researchers have made their research on the project publicly available [Note: This is a 48MB PDF].

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 Beginner Tips for Creating Beautiful Images Without an Expensive Camera

24 Jan

The post 10 Beginner Tips for Creating Beautiful Images Without an Expensive Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Shreyas Yadav.

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

I can’t take beautiful pictures because I have a basic entry-level camera.

My pictures are not looking great, it’s time that I should upgrade to the higher version of the camera.

My images aren’t looking excellent, ummm! I think it is because my camera is not full frame, does not have a high dynamic range and high ISO capability.

I am not getting beautiful images with my DSLR, I should upgrade to Mirrorless camera.

Does this sound familiar to you? Are these types of thoughts stopping you from making great pictures?

Well, I have good news for you.

I am going to show you the exact photography techniques that I use to create beautiful images without an expensive camera.

And the best part is…

These proven techniques work great with any type of camera, such as entry-level DSLR, Mirrorless, and so on.

You can start using these techniques to create beautiful images right away.

Let’s get started.

Here are 10 tips for creating beautiful images without an expensive camera

  1. Rule of thirds
  2. Golden Spiral
  3. Color wheel – choosing opposite colors
  4. Including the foreground object
  5. Patterns
  6. Symmetry
  7. Leading lines
  8. Negative space
  9. Rule of odds
  10. Including the frame

1. Rule of thirds

Let’s start with one of the fundamental ‘rules’ in photography – the Rule of Thirds.

Refer to the image below.

Image: Rule of Thirds – Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher

Rule of Thirds – Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher

 

In this image, the Kingfisher is the main object; hence, I have placed the Kingfisher at the line of intersection.

Divide the frame into nine parts by using two horizontal and vertical lines. Horizontal and vertical lines intersect at four points.

When you are composing the picture, position the main object on a point where horizontal and vertical lines intersect.

If there is a secondary object in an image, try to compose the secondary object where the line intersects.

Note – In your camera, turn the Grid option on. This will enable the Grid display while you photograph your image.

Rule of Thirds will improve your composition significantly and will significantly impact the visual appeal of your image.

2. Golden spiral

The golden spiral (or Golden ratio, Fibonacci spiral or ratio) is a composition technique based on the Fibonacci series. It has been in use from ancient times in arts, sculptures, and architecture. The golden spiral technique is useful in creating beautiful and pleasing compositions in photography, as well.

Check out the below Spiral (Golden Spiral)

Image: Golden Spiral – Crab on the tree

Golden Spiral – Crab on the tree

The main object here is the crab. Hence, I have positioned the crab where the spiral converges.

Place the main object at the smallest rectangle/square. Place the secondary supporting object along with the other rectangles. Try to place the other objects on the spiral curve. The Golden Spiral composition technique will be useful for you to create eye-pleasing compositions.

3. Color wheel

Check out the basic color wheel.

Image: Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

For example – red and green or violet and yellow are opposing colors.

One of the best ways to pop up the color in your image is to look for objects with opposing colors. Also, include objects with contrasting colors.

When you include the two opposing colors in an image, the image will look beautiful. This technique you can try with common objects as well. Instead of making an image of everyday objects as it is, photograph the common objects against an opposite-colored background or surroundings.

Here is an image of Red Munia.

Image: Color Wheel – Red Munia bird against green grass

Color Wheel – Red Munia bird against green grass

I had an option to photograph the Red Munia against yellowish-white flowers, blue water of the lake, and green grass. I changed my position to photograph the Red Munia against the green grass.

Here is one more example.

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

Color Wheel – Corynandra flower with yellow and violet color.

 

This is a close-up image of a flower.

At the center of the flower, the color is yellow, whereas the surroundings (stamens) are of violet color. Yellow and violet are the opposite colors on the color wheel. Learn more about color in our Mastering Color Series.

4. Include the foreground object

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

Foreground object – Waterfall and the rocks.

 

Apart from the main object and background, the foreground is an essential part of the image too. Adding a foreground object will give depth to your picture – especially landscape and cityscape images.

In general, most of the images in which we click have the main object and background as a part of an image. Include the object in the foreground. It will add depth to the picture.

An image is two-dimensional. Adding an interesting foreground object will make the image feel more three-dimensional because of the depth.

In the image of a waterfall, I have included rocks in the foreground. Foreground rocks add depth to the picture. Without a foreground object, the waterfall image would have been appeared flat.

5. Patterns

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

An image showing patterns in the rice field.

Image: Patterns of the Utricularia flowers

Patterns of the Utricularia flowers

 

In the first image, I photographed the paddy field during the rainy season. Instead of taking a general view of the rice field, I focussed on the repeating pattern of the rice field.

The second image is of the Utricularia flower, whose flowers bloom during monsoon season. I have photographed the flower from the top. There colors and shape of the flower is repeating in the pattern.

Patterns are a repetition of objects, shapes, or colors. While you are photographing outdoors, you will always find patterns.

There are two effective ways to shoot patterns

1. Photograph a uniform pattern of the objects or shapes

  • Flowers of similar shape and color
  • Historical monuments
  • Farmlands
  • Raindrops
  • People with similar uniform and position
  • Festival images
  • Wildlife moving in the herd such as Zebra, Elephant, Deers and birds

2. Photograph a uniform pattern along with the object which is breaking that pattern

  • Flowers with similar shape and colors along with the flower of different color or cactus
  • Wildlife moving in a herd with one or another different animal or animal moving in the opposite direction

Photographing a similar pattern adds uniformity to the image, whereas, an object breaking a uniform pattern makes the image dynamic.

6. Symmetry

Image: Symmetry of the Hornbills.

Symmetry of the Hornbills.

 

This image is of Malabar Pied Hornbills during the bunting season. Shown here is a male and female hornbill. I was observing the hornbills for some time before taking a photo. As soon as their beaks lined up and both of them appeared in symmetry, I pressed the shutter.

Symmetrical composition is a beautiful way to photograph an object. You can photograph symmetrical objects, reflections in the water, or symmetrical position of the object.

For symmetrical composition, you can choose the main object to be at the center. Keeping the line of symmetry at the center of the frame will make the image symmetries well-balanced.

7. Leading lines

Composition with the main object and leading lines makes for a powerful image. While photographing the main object, use a line that is directing towards it. The leading lines can be streets, compound walls, floors, stairs, trees, or any objects which form a leading line towards your main object.

Image: Leading Lines – Man walking on the road.

Leading Lines – Man walking on the road.

 

In this image, the main subject is a lonely man walking. The leading lines I have used are flowers and the road. This type of composition will have your attention as these leading lines will point your eyes towards the lonely man.

8. Negative space

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

An example of negative Space – Sunbird

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

Negative Space – Sitana Lizard running

 

In the first image, there is empty space in which the sunbird is looking. With the second image, there is space in the direction of the movement of the lizard.

In your images, look where the main object is moving and leave some space in that area. Alternatively, leave some space in the direction they are looking toward. This space is called negative space. Composing with negative space can make for very effective compositions.

You can apply negative space to a wide variety of images too. You can use it for portraits, wildlife, birds, automobiles, cityscapes, etc.

9. Rule of odds

Image: Rule of Odds – Three Chinkaras

Rule of Odds – Three Chinkaras

 

While you compose an image, try to include an odd number of elements in the frame. An odd number of objects can be three, five or seven, etc. With an odd number of objects, the image becomes harmonized and balanced.

On the other hand, an even quantity of objects can add a sense of comparison.

It is not a rule. Still, we perceive images with an odd number of objects as balanced as compared to that of an even number of objects.

In this image of Chinkara, instead of photographing from eye level, I shot the image from a low level. This helped to get the foreground in the picture. Three Chinkaras were moving around. I waited for some time until three of them looked in the same direction. I pressed the shutter as soon as three of them appeared.

With three Chinkaras (an odd number of objects), the image looks balanced.

10. Including the frame

Beautiful-Images-Without-an-Expensive-Camera

Frame – Spotted Deer in the forest.

 

The frame around the main subject adds depth to the image, driving the viewer’s attention towards it. The main object, along with a frame, gives perspective to the picture.

When you photograph an object, compose a frame in the foreground. Include the frame entirely or partially. Both techniques work well. Some of the frames which you can include are tree branches, forest, windows, car windows, architectural buildings, and flowers.

This deer showed up during the beautiful misty morning in the forest. With sunlight in the background, I tried to include forests in the foreground as a partial frame.

A subtle forest frame in the foreground and partially bright sunlight in the background brings this image alive!

Now it’s your turn

I hope these photography techniques will help you to create beautiful images without an expensive camera. Of course, some of these photography “rules” can be broken.

Now I would like to hear from you.

Which of the techniques are you going to try first? Let me know by leaving a comment below.

The post 10 Beginner Tips for Creating Beautiful Images Without an Expensive Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Shreyas Yadav.


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Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop

15 Jan

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

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If you’re a lover of black and white imagery (like many of us photographers are), then you are probably aware of the many, many options there are for you to convert your images to black in white in Photoshop (and other software packages). Conversion is only the first step in processing black and white images. Once you have gotten rid of the color in your photos, you will still want to control and manage the tones in your images to get the best results possible. This article will introduce you to a few of these Photoshop tools that you can use to create images with impact.

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Global/Local Adjustments

Before jumping straight into the list of tools, it is important to differentiate between two different types of adjustments you can make to your images.

Global Adjustments – Global adjustments are adjustments that affect the entire image. For example, if you use the contrast slider in Lightroom, it alters the contrast in the entire image.

Global adjustments in processing black and white images.

As a global adjustment, this curves layer that was meant to bring down the highlights has affected the whole image and not in a pleasant way.

Local Adjustments – Local adjustments are made to specific areas of an image that you define. For example, you can adjust the contrast for a portrait subject’s eyes and the contrast for their shirt separately.

Local adjustments in processing black and white images.

Using a layer mask allowed for a local adjustment, meaning the curves layer only affected the mid-tones surrounding the subject’s face.

What this means for your images

These distinctions are important because, in most cases, you will want to avoid profound global adjustments on your images. Most photos are made of scenes of different elements. If you think of this in terms of portraiture, imagine a person standing against a studio backdrop, such as the image below.

Isolating areas of tonality in processing black and white images.

Dividing an image into areas of tonality and then making adjustments to those areas separately, gives you complete control over your images.

Here, you can divide the image up into several parts. You have the subject’s skin, eyes, shirt, hair, and background. Each of these elements reacts differently to various adjustments. By using global adjustments, you will alter the appearance of these elements at the same time.

For example, if you want to increase the contrast of the shirt by a large amount to help bring out the texture, then you will also be increasing the contrast of the subject’s skin. As a general guide, you usually don’t want to increase contrast on skin. More often than not, you will want to reduce it.

How do you go about increasing the contrast of a shirt while reducing contrast on the skin at the same time? Through the use of local adjustments.

Tools for applying local adjustments

There are a lot of ways to apply local adjustments to your images in Photoshop. Here is a primer on a handful of them.

The right tool for the job depends entirely on the job at hand. By learning how to use several of these options, you will arm yourself with a variety of ways to use local adjustments while processing black and white images.

Remember, this is an introduction to the various tools that you can use and not a full tutorial.

Layer masks

Layer masks are probably the easiest and most common way to get started with local adjustments in Photoshop. If you’re not already familiar with how to use this powerful yet intrinsic aspect of Photoshop, I strongly encourage you to spend some time reading up on and practicing using them as soon as possible.

A layer mask effectively blocks an adjustment layer (masks it) from affecting parts of the image that you don’t want it to.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images

Layer masks will help you to isolate specific areas of your image that you want to make adjustments to. Here, the subject’s hat is darkened.

In the example above, I made a Curves adjustment layer and filled the layer mask with black. Using a white brush (B) set to 100% opacity, I painted (with the layer mask clicked) over the subject’s eyes. Now, no matter what I do with the curves layer, it will only affect the area that I painted white in the layer mask.

Using this technique, you can create as many Curves adjustment layers as you want (or any other type of adjustment layer) with each one only affecting specific parts of the image.  This way, you are able to treat each element in your image with individual care.

Using layer masks in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see three separate curves layers with their own masks. Each one is doing a different job separately from the other. The first two are darkening areas of the image, while the top on is lightening the background.

Select Color Range

While you are working with your layer masks, it can sometimes feel tricky, or downright difficult, to separate specific areas of an image to work with. One technique that is useful in this situation is the Select Color Range tool (Select->Color Range). This tool works very well when trying to select skin and skies.

Select color range tool in processing black and white images.

Here, you can see what the Select Color Range tool will add to your selection when you click on the brightest part of the image and set the fuzziness slider to max.

Opening this tool will present you with a means to select a specific color range in your images that you can then apply to your layer masks. Because we are talking about processing black and white images, instead of selecting colors, you will be selecting a tonal range.

With the dialogue box open, simply click an area in your image that you want to select to work on. You can now use the slider labeled Fuzziness to adjust how much of the image within that range you wish to select. If you only want the very brightest highlights selected, click on the brightest part of your image and drag the fuzziness slider to the left. With the selection made, you can now create any adjustment layer and Photoshop will turn that selection into a layer mask.

Luminosity masks

For a far more complex option, you can use Luminosity masks.

There are a variety of ways to set these up inside Photoshop and with third-party plug-ins, so do be sure to research the various ways to go about it. Luminosity masks give you a ludicrous amount of fine control for processing your black and white images.

Luminosity masks in processing black and white images.

This is an example of what Luminosity Masks might look like when setting up in your images. I made the selection here with the ‘Light Lights’ mask. With all of these options to easily select specific tonal ranges, you should be able to see how powerful this is.

In brief, Luminosity masks grant you the ability to create layer masks for every tonal range in your image. They allow you independent control over the brightest of highlights, the darkest of shadows and everything in between. With this amount of control, you can fine-tune every part of your image to your heart’s content.

One word of warning though: leaving the Luminosity masks in your files results in very large file sizes. Consider deleting them before you save your images.

Tools for controlling tones

Now that you have a few options for selecting and isolating the various parts and tones of your images, there is a large selection of tools that you can use to manipulate the tonality (and other aspects) of your images.

Selective Color

The Selective Color adjustment layer is, probably, the easiest of these tools to get to grips with. Once you’ve created the layer, all that you have to do is find the drop-down box and choose either: whites, neutrals or blacks. (Because this article is discussing black and white images, you can discard all of the color options for now.)

Selective color in processing black and white images.

With the Selective Color tool, you have a fair degree of control over your highlights, mid-tones, and shadows. Just move the Black slider in the relevant box. This doesn’t give the amount of control that other methods do, but it’s quick and intuitive.

With any of those three options selected, find the slider labeled ‘Black’ at the bottom of the dialogue box. Dragging this slider to the right will darken the relevant tones. Dragging it to the left will lighten them. Do this with all three (whites, neutrals, blacks) for every part of your image, and you will have a great deal of control over the tonality of your images with very little effort.

As a bonus, if you’re still getting to grips with Layer Masks, the fact that the Selective Color tool adjust the highlights, mid-tones and Shadows independently within the dialogue box, means that you have a bit of local control over those three tonal ranges without having to use a layer mask at all.

Curves

The powerful Curves adjustment layer is another Photoshop staple that you should learn inside out early on.

By manipulating the curve in the dialogue box, you will gain absolute control over every minute aspect of contrast and tonal range in your image. Combine this tool with Layer Masks, and you have a solution that will get you through most situations.

Curves in processing black and white images.

Here you can see the image before I applied the Curves layer.

 

Curves in processing black and white images.

After applying the slightest of S curves, you can see just how much a difference was made to the image.

 

In terms of processing black and white images, the Curves tool will allow you to increase or reduce contrast as you see fit. Because it is a complicated tool with a lot of nuances (it will take a fair amount of time for you to get to grips with it beyond a simple S curve), do spend plenty of time practicing and reading up on how to get the most out of this tool.

Gradient Map

The Gradient Map tool is another complicated, but powerful, option for controlling the tones in your images. You can use the Gradient Map to do the actual conversion of your image to black and white, but that’s only the start. Note, that you can use the Gradient Map after you’ve done a conversion using any other method and that is what is being described here.

In the Gradient Editor (with the black and white gradient selected) you have a few options. Click on the slider at either side (the black or the white) and a mid-tone marker will appear. Dragging this left or right will adjust the position of the gradient and it will have a drastic effect on how the tones in your image appear.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

With the black and white gradient selected in the Gradient Editor, you can see that there has already been a huge increase in contrast.

If you click anywhere in the middle of the gradient in the gradient editor, it will add another marker that you can use to set the tonal point anywhere in the gradient. This also gives you new midpoint markers between these points. Using these tools, you can control the contrast in the various parts of your images’ tonality in one fell swoop.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

Circled in red, you can see the midpoint slider that will allow you to position the position of the gradient in terms of the tones in your image. Underlined, you can move these slider to control where the black and white point of the gradient starts. Move these inwards to increase contrast.

Combine these options with Layer Masks and you have yet another powerful tool that gives you complete control over how your final black and white images turn out.

Gradient map in processing black and white images.

By adding a third point in the gradient, you can control the exact tone that appears. It also gives you two midpoint sliders to play with.

The end

Tools for processing black and white images in Photoshop

Alongside other retouching tools, using these tools (on their own or in concert with one another) can give you a great deal of fine control over your black and white images.

With these tools, you should see that you have a lot of options when it comes to processing black and white photos after the conversion process. By taking full control of the tonality of your black and white images, you will be able to create images with plenty of impact and fine-tuned contrast. It’s important to note that the concept of local adjustments applies to a lot more than tonality and you can use them for any type of adjustment you can think of in Photoshop. For example, you can sharpen an area of fine detail (like hair) in your image for emphasis without applying that to your subject’s skin.

Do you have any other tips for processing black and white images in Photoshop? If so, please share them with us in the comments. Also, please try these methods out and share your resulting images with us in the comments section.

The post Tips for Processing Black and White Images in Photoshop appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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Canon shows off new AI-powered plugin for Lightroom Classic that will cull images for you

10 Jan

Canon has announced it will soon be releasing a new AI-powered plugin for Adobe Lightroom Classic that will be able to cull through images and sort them based on image quality.

The ‘Photo Culling’ plugin, as it’s so aptly named, uses Canon’s Computer Vision AI engine and ‘technical models’ to select images for ‘sharpness, noise, exposure, contrast, closed eyes, and red eyes.’ As the plugin analyzes images, it will flag the photos with different colored flags within Lightroom Classic for easier curation.

Canon says the settings will be customizable so photographers can ‘remain in complete control,’ but doesn’t elaborate on how exactly the parameters will be controlled. There’s no mention of whether or not this plugin will work with images captured with other cameras, but we’ve contacted Canon for clarification and will update this article accordingly when we hear back.

The Photo Culling plugin will be available exclusively on the Adobe Exchange App Marketplace in Q1 2020 for a monthly subscription.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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