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Posts Tagged ‘Images’

Kickstarter campaign presents Bokeh, a platform for privately sharing images

09 May

A Kickstarter campaign seeks funding for Bokeh, a new photo sharing platform that enables users to privately share images with friends and family. Bokeh is presented as an alternative to traditional social media services, offering users a focus on privacy and a lack of ‘creepy ads,’ according to Bokeh creator Tim Smith.

Bokeh is an ad-free image sharing service where accounts are set to private by default (the option exists to make them public), accounts are only searchable by username, and followers are hidden from public view. The platform includes features to help keep content private and users safe, such as an automatic prompt to block a user after their follow requests have been declined three times.

The Boken interface resembles Twitter profiles, at least based on the Kickstarter previews. Rather than selling user data and showing advertisements to fund the platform, Bokeh will charge users a fee to use the service. Individual accounts will cost $ 3/month with the option to pay $ 30 per year. Family accounts (up to five users) will be offered for $ 5/month or $ 50 per year.

Smith explains in his campaign:

I believe that your data shouldn’t be mined to sell you targeted ads, that your timeline should be chronological and not based on some algorithm, that tech CEOs shouldn’t allow hate groups to flourish on their platforms, and that we need more social networks that are privacy-focused and ethically sustained.

The Kickstarter funds would be earmarked to develop the service. As with any crowdfunding campaign, there are risks involved and a final product may never reach the market.


Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Twitter now supports adding images and other media to retweets

08 May
Image by Twitter via The Verge

Twitter has announced support for adding images, as well as videos and GIFs, to retweets and quoted tweets. Users had requested this feature for years, but Twitter explained to The Verge that it was tricky enabling media comments on retweets and quotes while maintaining a logical design that viewers could readily parse.

The new support, which is currently rolling out Twitter’s mobile apps and mobile website, allows users to add an image, video, or GIF after tapping the ‘Retweet with comment’ option on an existing tweet.

The company has chosen a design that nestles the original tweet with a timestamp and thumbnail under the full-width media published by the user who responded to the original tweet. This design only appears on mobile at this time, however, and The Verge points out that GIF comments on retweets look clunky on desktop.

It’s unclear when the feature and mobile-like nesting design will arrive for desktop users. The new option is rolling out on Android and iOS now.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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OnePlus shares official sample images from OnePlus 7 Pro’s triple camera system

04 May
OnePlus 7 Pro leak from @OnLeaks via PriceBaba

On May 14, Chinese smartphone company OnePlus will officially announce the anticipated OnePlus 7 Pro Android smartphone. Though many details are lacking at this time, the OnePlus 7 Pro previously leaked as featuring a rear three-camera system, something OnePlus confirmed on April 25, 2019. Following that confirmation, OnePlus has shared three official sample images captured with the the triple camera.

OnePlus shared three images captured with the OnePlus 7 Pro via Twitter on April 30. Though the company didn’t provide details on the device, the images seemingly confirm leaks that claim the model will feature both ultra-wide and zoom cameras in addition to the expected 48MP primary camera.

The OnePlus 7 Pro will allegedly feature a Snapdragon 855, 8GB of RAM, USB-C, a single speaker, notch-free display, and complete lack of a headphone jack. Official features will be revealed by OnePlus next month.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Creative Commons launches improved CC Search tool with access to 300 million images

03 May

Creative Commons has fully launched its new CC Search tool following a beta period, the organization has announced. The tool provides rapid access to a library of more than 300 million images indexed from 19 different collections, including the Cleveland Museum of Art, Metropolitan Museum of Art, DeviantArt, Behance, Flickr, and Thingiverse

Users can search for images using keywords and filter the results based on the license type and/or the collection from which the content is sourced. The new search tool has a cleaner interface with improved navigation and direct access to attribution code and text.

The old search portal is still accessible online, but Creative Commons says the new CC Search tool has been given a number of changes that speed up loading times and also improve search phrase relevance. As well, CC Search implements a number of critical bug fixes that aren’t available on the old search portal.

Starting later this year, Creative Commons plans to start indexing open textbooks, audio, and other CC-licensed materials with CC Search.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Develop a Photography Workflow that Preserves Your Images

28 Apr

The post How to Develop a Photography Workflow that Preserves Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.

“I love spending time in front of a computer working on my images – sorting them, cataloging them and editing them,” said no photographer ever!

Well, maybe a few of us like to be sitting in front of our desk pouring over image after image, shoot after shoot. But let’s face it, as photographers, we would much rather get out there and photograph in the field than be chained to our desk and computers indoors.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

This is where having a good solid workflow that can help you ease the post-shoot process is very important. Workflows are not just for the editing portion of your life as a photographer. In fact, a workflow is something that can help you before, during and even after your photo shoot.

Whether you are a busy professional photographer or an active hobbyist, having a good solid workflow and method of organizing images is crucial.

Having a workflow is even beneficial if you just photograph on your smartphone.

We have all been in situations where your phone runs out of space because you have images from three years ago that you have done nothing with. Sorting through three years worth of data to find images to delete under pressure of missing a key moment is no joke!

I wear many different photography hats as a wedding, lifestyle and travel photographer. So my workflow is slightly different based on the type of session I am photographing. But for the most part, I follow the same series of steps.

Here is my process. Hopefully, you may be able to replicate some or all of these steps to create a process that works for you in your photography.

1. Choice of Gear

Camera

My camera of choice is a Canon 5D MKIII. At this point, I only have one digital camera. I used to have a Canon 5D MKII as my backup, but ever since I starting working with a second shooter for my weddings, I didn’t find the need for my Canon 5D MK II. So I sold it.

For commercial shoots or bigger gigs that require multiple cameras and lenses, I just rent what I need. I am lucky in that I have a big camera store close to home that has all the gear I could need. They even have a studio that I can rent out should I need more space.

Batteries and Cards

I purchased two extra batteries when I was a full-time wedding photographer, and because I sold my backup gear, I am now left with extra camera batteries for my primary camera.

This works really well because I carry all my batteries with me when I am traveling or going to a multi-day event. That way I don’t have to worry about finding a plug point or charging my camera battery in the field.

This was a lifesaver earlier in the year when I traveled to Portugal and lost my power converter/adaptor. Try figuring out how to say power adaptor in a part of the world where you don’t speak the language! I drained out my batteries to the very last percent of battery juice during that trip!

Side tip: try shaking the battery to squeeze out every last bit of battery juice if you are running out of battery life. I’m not joking. I have tried this successfully many times in Portugal to get that last shot before the battery died!

I have 5 x 32GB CF cards, 3 x 16GB CF cards and a handful of 8 GB CF cards. For the most part, all these cards travel with me for a multi-day shoot or a personal travel trip that is several days long.

Part of my pre-shoot workflow includes downloading all my cards, charging my batteries and packing my bag with everything I need the night before.

Camera bag

My camera bag is a backpack that I used not just my photography but also for excursions and trips around town. I ditched the proverbial camera bag many years ago when I started traveling with my family of young kids. Carrying a camera bag, diaper bag, and a purse was just not practical. Also, once I got used to carrying a day pack that held all my treasures, it just seems second nature to me to pick that bag up no matter what the occasion.

Since I have just one camera/day pack, part of my workflow is to make sure the bag is empty and ready for the next adventure as soon as I come back home from a shoot/trip or even just going around town.

Luckily, it has enough pockets to store batteries, CF cards and other things like filters, and flashes.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

At a recent class I taught, I loved seeing the diversity in terms of camera bags that everyone was using!

2. During the shoot

There is nothing quite like learning the importance of having a workflow than losing data or content in the absence of one. I learned the hard way when I lost all my images from a shoot on a card that failed. Luckily it was for a family shoot that I could reschedule.

So from that point onwards, I change my camera data card with each logical break in the event I am photographing.

For example, if I am photographing a wedding, I have the getting ready activities on one card, the ceremony on another card and the reception on a third card.

Even though the cards are not full, this gives me the security of losing only a part of the day should anything go wrong.

Of course, my backup for weddings is my second photographer who does the same thing.

For non-wedding related client work, I use a backup SD card in my camera. The Canon 5D MkIII has a dual card slot, so I take full advantage of the technology at my fingertips. If I am on a personal assignment, I change out my cards every night and download the photos onto an external drive.

Another thing that is important to note is how you store used and unused data cards. Figure out a system that works for you in how you separate the two. For me, used CF cards from a photoshoot are placed in a separate pouch from unused CF cards. I place those in another pouch in my camera bag.

In terms of the actual shoot, try and come up with a game plan for what you are photographing. As a wedding photographer, one of the key things I make sure to discuss with my wedding couples is a shot list. A shot list is a list of all the key moments and images that the couple absolutely wants to have taken. Typically these are around photos with family members.

With client and commercial shoots, the clients typically have a list of images they want to get from you. Use this concept of a shot list to list down all the ‘must have’ images you want to get out of a photographic excursion.

Shot lists save you effort, and they help you become more efficient with your time in the field.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta 2

Wedding photography can be quite stressful. There isn’t really a do-over option if you mess up. Having a workflow is critical and life-saving for a wedding photographer.

3. After the shoot

When I am back home from a wedding or a lifestyle shoot, the first thing I do is pack away my gear. I separate my camera body from my lenses and pack them away separately. All batteries are removed, including those from my flash. I have heard horror stories where batteries, especially AAAs, have leaked into the flash socket, so I don’t want to have to deal with that mess! Plus I use rechargeable batteries for all my flashes and external lights. Once they are out, I put them back in the case ready to be recharged for the next photography gig.

If I am at a multi-day shoot, all batteries are plugged into the charger slots right away.

These are the steps I take with my images:

  1. I download all the images from my CF cards onto TWO external hard drives, that act as a storage for my RAW images. 
  2. Once the RAW images are successfully transferred to my external hard drive, I go through and spot check the images and the total image count to make sure all the images are moved over.
  3. Images are moved over based on the shoot, location or event. For example a wedding will be downloaded as follows on the primary storage drive:

20190101_ClientNameWedding_GettingReady

20100101_FamilyName_LifestyleShoot

20100101_Personal_VacationLocation_Day01

  1. The secondary drive is less formal and has images just based on the event. For example:

2019

WeddingClientCard01

WeddingClientCard02

FamilyLifestyelShoot

Personal_TripCard01

Personal_TripCard02

  1. I then format the cards in camera. This is done on the camera rather than the computer. The reason for this is because I have found that sometimes all the images are not cleaned out and the card still retains some data that occupies unnecessary space.
How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

Treating every client shoot like it was a wedding really helped me nail down a process and workflow that works for me. Now it is second nature and something I don’t even have to think about.

4. After the shoot (remote)

When I am traveling for work or pleasure, I carry one WD My Passport Ultra external hard drive and all my camera data cards. Earlier in my career, I would carry two external hard drives and create primary and secondary backups in the field. Now I have found that I don’t photograph as much because I am more thoughtful about what I photograph.

So now I just carry all my cards, and one external hard drive to back them up in the field. I avoid taking an external hard drive when I am just traveling for pleasure or personal work to reduce my load.

When I get home, the RAW files from the CF cards used during the trip are copied over to both external hard drives (primary and secondary) that house all my raw images. They are deleted from the WD Ultra so that it is ready for my next trip.

Early in my photography career, there were times where I would travel with almost every lens I owned, a laptop, two external hard drives, and many camera cards to be safe. Perhaps it is age, or perhaps it is maturity (I like to think it is a little bit of both), but now I try to travel light and take only what is absolutely needed to get the job done.

If I need something along the way, I either borrow, rent or figure out creative solutions to make things work.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

I would argue that personal photos are more important than professional ones – especially as the dedicated photographer of the family. I love documenting our journey for no-one but me!

5. Editing workflow

Eighty percent of my editing happens in Lightroom (LR). Photoshop is used sparingly if I have to make any advanced editing. I have invested in the Adobe Creative Cloud for LR and Photoshop. I’ve installed them on my iMac (my primary editing device), as well as my MacBook Pro (my travel companion).

My Lightroom catalog lives on an external HD. I understand some people have concerns over running a LR Catalog on an external HD, because of potential LR speed issues. So far, I have not experienced any issues with LR in terms of speed by having the catalog on an external HD. However, if you are concerned about speed, then your LR catalog can be put on your computer’s hard drive, and keep a backup on the external HD. A backup of my LR catalog lives on a cloud service that is updated every six weeks.

I used to use iPhoto on my iMac to store all my images and only upload selected images to Lightroom. I tried to use Bridge for a few years to select images that I want to import into Lightroom. Now I use Photos on my Mac to select images that I want to edit and upload them into Lightroom.

I know it is probably easier to just upload all images to Lightroom and sort them via the software to save an extra step. I have one Lightroom catalog that houses all my work since 2012, and so there are quite a few images in the catalog. I had found that when I used Lightroom to sort and select images, it takes forever to load.

My Lightroom catalog is sorted by year, and I use the following naming convention for my Lightroom. I am less worried about the naming convention in Lightroom than I am with my primary and second storage units. This is just my personal preference.

YYYYMMDD_ClientName_TypeoftheShoot.

After editing is complete, I export my client images onto the same WD Ultra external hard drive as my Lightroom catalog.

The client folders get arranged by the date of the session.

This time the naming standard is as follows:

CompanyName_ClientNameEvent_Date

All images have the same naming convention as the folder, along with an image sequence number.

Every few years I go through and delete edited galleries from the external hard drive. I don’t delete client RAW files – just the edited files. I have found myself going back to many client galleries and re-editing images as my style evolves and changes. There is no point in keep multiple copies of the same image.

I use a mix of presets and hand edits for my images. It took me many years to finally come up with a style and method of how I want my images to look. Ninety percent of my edits follow that same process. Every once in a while I drastically change my “look” to keep things fresh.

As a rule, I spend no more than a minute on each image. I would much rather be outside photographing than indoors editing.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

Exact same image – two different looks. And I love them both.

6. Editing Remotely

I really avoid extensive editing of images in the field. I prefer to focus on documenting and photographing rather than same day edits. I would much rather take a quick snapshot on my iPhone and edit using phone apps for a quick social media preview than spend time and effort in editing in the field.

A couple of years ago, I traveled out of the country for three months over the summer. This was before Lightroom came up with their cloud version. Because I was gone for so long, I took my Lightroom catalog with me on an external drive and used that for 3 months.

Recently, I started using Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC for my workflow. I primarily used them for working when traveling. When I know I need access to my files for a particular project or a particular job, I upload those files to my Lightroom CC and work on them while on the road. Once back home, I ‘sync’ Lightroom CC as a collection in my Lightroom Classic and have all those edits readily available.

7. Client workflow

I use an external portfolio service to host my images for client work. These client galleries are only online for three weeks, and then they are deleted. My wedding photography packages all include edited images on a personalized flash drive whereas my family portraiture clients have the option of purchasing digital images if they want them for future use.

Every few years I go through and update client galleries and delete old ones. Keep in mind these are just the edited files. My client RAW files are stored indefinitely in case a client comes back after a few years for the images. If you don’t want to delete client images, you can invest in an external cloud storage system.

How to setup a workflow to protect your images Karthika Gupta

In Conclusion

While it might seem like a lot, my workflow has simplified over time. Just as I limit the gear I own and use, I also try and limit the images I capture – for both client and personal work. Having 100 photos of a spectacular sunset no longer make sense to me. I also stick to my workflow because it saves time in the long run.

One of my favorite things to stock up on are external hard drives. Every so often they fail, and I have to replace them. As cloud storage gets more accessible and less expensive, I can see myself moving things over to the cloud and simplifying my process and workflow even more.

I encourage you to use this, or some variation of this workflow and tweak it to make it your own. If you do it consistently and often enough, it becomes second nature and saves you time so you can do what you enjoy doing – photographing.

 

The post How to Develop a Photography Workflow that Preserves Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.


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How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part Two

21 Apr

The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part Two appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

In part one of this series, I presented the reasons why images printed in magazines and publications can appear lackluster, dark, and dull rather than detailed and vibrant as when printed on an inkjet printer. In this follow-up article, I address the unique requirements and limitations of printing presses and some ways to produce rich and detailed images in print.

Fine Tuning the Process for Print

Paper surfaces

The depth and detail that a press can reproduce in the darkest (shadow) portions of an image are limited by several print-related factors, with the paper grade (quality) being the biggest factor. Printing papers come in various grades, textures, and shades of white.

White is a relative term, and newspapers are a prime example. Newsprint isn’t actually pure white and the ink printed on it never appears black.

Printing inks

Newspaper inks are nearly in a liquid state as opposed to other forms of print. The tack level (stickiness) of these inks must remain very low since the newsprint paper composition is quite soft. Full-bodied inks printed at high speed would tear the paper apart. Instead of appearing as black ink on white paper, newspapers appear more like charcoal colored ink on light gray paper. This factor alone dismisses the visual contrast in pictures. Newsprint absorbs ink like a paper towel, which is why pictures in the newspaper lack contrast, punch and depth.

Magazine paper surfaces

Publication (magazine) presses fair much better. However, they still have limitations. Paper grades for publications are still lower quality than those of brochures and coffee table books because of the economy of the project. Most publication stocks are made from recycled papers in which many of the whitening agents and glossy coatings used in higher grade papers are absent. This results in less reflective surfaces and varying shades of off-white colors. While the recycled paper is good news for the environment, it’s bad news for print quality.

The challenge

High-speed presses must also reduce the tack level of their inks to keep these papers flowing through the presses. When the tack level goes down, so does the opacity of the inks, and when the tack level of translucent inks is reduced, the contrast in the images (and image detail) is also reduced. You can see where this is headed…

The creative solution

Thus the challenge is to maintain as much apparent contrast in each image as possible under less than ideal circumstances. Here is where the creative magic of contrast “compensation” enters the picture. Prior to the era of digital editing, this creative level of tonal manipulation was simply out of reach. While adjusting the overall contrast (white, middle, and black points) of printed images has always been possible, serious contour shaping was not. But within current digital image editing software, the entire internal range of tones can be tuned and cajoled with great precision. Success simply takes a clear understanding of the limitations and a good knowledge of the tools in the digital tool chest.

The Sun backlit the subjects in this photo causing the darker areas to hide significant detail. If sent to press without compensating adjustments, the printed results would have looked even darker and important detail would have been lost.

Pictured here are the settings that produced the civil war reenactment photo above. Information contained in the middle tones and shadow tones was recovered by powerful tonal adjustments available in each of the four software applications. Very similar settings produced very similar results. The panels (from left to right) include Adobe Camera Raw, Adobe Lightroom, On1 Photo RAW, and Alien Skin X4.5. Camera Raw and Lightroom produced identical results from identical settings for obvious reasons, while the development engineers from On1 and Alien Skin used unique routines and algorithms in their software to affect very similar results.

 

The secret to success in adjusting the internal contrast of an image is in developing a distinct visual difference between the whites and highlights and the shadows and black tones. This is best addressed within the six major tonal sliders provided by most RAW editing software (Lightroom, Camera Raw, On1 Photo RAW and Alien Skin’s Xposure X4.5) best address this.

Don’t let the term RAW scare you away. These editors can open and process just about all image file types (RAW, JPEG, TIFF, etc.). Each of these packages provides very similar tonal area adjustments (Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks) though each maintains a slightly different range for each. Additional controls to fine tune the tonal values include the Tone Curve adjustments of Highlights, Lights, Darks, and Shadows.

The beauty of all these controls is the fact that they are nonlinear, meaning they can be adjusted in any order and at any time during (and during follow-up) editing sessions. Using these editing packages, truly non-non-destructive image editing can be made to RAW, TIFF and JPEG image files.

Backlighting and a black cat provided a serious challenge in this image. These adjustments were needed even if the picture was not going to press.

Three aspects of tonal controls

Familiarize yourself with these three general aspects of tonal controls to prepare your photos specifically for the printing press.

One

Since camera image sensors capture very little shadow detail, digital images require significant internal contrast adjustments to the lower portion of the tonal scale.

Shadow tones of each image are the most challenging areas to print cleanly on press. Therefore, you must create a sharp distinction between the darkest darks (Black slider) and the three-quarter tones (Shadow slider).

Use the Exposure slider in conjunction with the Blacks slider to bring out all the detail in the darkest portion of the image. Reference the histogram to gauge the actual pixels that will print darkest.

Two

Lighten the middle tones and accent the difference between the quarter tones and the highlights.

Use the Curves tool to affect the middle tones while adjusting the Shadows slider and Highlight Slider to define the middle tones further.

Three

Reference the histogram again to monitor the lightest tones (White slider). White is a misnomer in the labeling of this slider as its influence is on the extreme highlight tones. Draw a distinction between the light tones and absolute white by using the Highlights slider and the White slider.

The Exposure slider and the Contrast slider play an important part in this tonal ballet. Choreograph these controls to achieve the best balance of internal tones and check your progress by occasionally tapping the “P” key to preview the composite effects of all your adjustments against the original image.

Seemingly lost detail in the darker areas was completely recovered by some severe adjustments to individual tonal areas throughout the tonal range. The image was recovered with only the use of the sliders shown. No further editing (dodging, burning, etc.) was required.

This article is hardly an exhaustive explanation of how to prepare images for publication inasmuch as it does not address the critical issues of color, sharpening, resolution, etc. But it will get you started on the most critical issues of tone sculpturing images for reproduction. In every example shown, ONLY global adjustments to the seven sliders was required to bring full life back into lackluster photos. The most critical aspect of post-production involves an image’s internal tonality.

Shape each image’s internal contrast specifically for the press and paper being printed. If you don’t, the printed image will probably hide shadow detail, lose their “snap” in the highlights, and produce muddy middle tones. Slight but deliberate accenting of the tone curve will produce significantly better images in print.

Working on images in these RAW Interpreter software applications provides amazing latitude in recovering both shadow and highlight detail. This example shows how On1 Photo RAW found significant detail in what appeared to be blown out highlights of a JPEG image.

Chasing light

At the core of the issue is light.

Everything about photography concerns light, and that includes viewing photos in print.

The reason images appear more vibrant and colorful on a monitor is because the background “white” is projected light, not paper. Images printed on paper will ALWAYS appear less vibrant. Paper is only as white as the light reflecting from it. The darker the paper and the dimmer the reflecting light, the less bright the picture appears. Images in print will never look as good as images on your monitor simply because reflected light cannot compete with projected light.

Conclusion

Preparing images to print correctly is a serious challenge, but one that delivers an amazing result. If you want to test your image editing skills, it doesn’t get more challenging than this. The reward for all your print-editing efforts will last a whole lot longer than a post on the Internet and will be seen by thousands (if not millions) more than a print hanging in a gallery. People collect well-produced publications and display them for others to see.

Virtually all images deserve thoughtful preparation before presentation. The camera can’t evaluate tonality balance by human standards. Learning the reproduction habits and limitations of different devices and understanding how to best compensate for each will pay serious visual dividends.

Of course, the final challenge in preparing images for publication is converting the color mode from RGB to CMYK. Check with your publication about this matter before you arbitrarily choose CMYK from the Image/Mode menu. There are a number of workflows that publications use to produce their final files for the printer. I suggest you leave the color conversion decision up to the magazine’s production staff. The conversion process is a complex issue that deserves much more attention than I’m addressing in this series.

Please feel free to comment and question what you’ve just read. Life is a collaborative effort, and we’re all learning.

The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part Two appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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Shutterstock AR feature lets customers preview stock images as wall artwork

18 Apr

Shutterstock has announced the launch of its first augmented reality feature. The new tool ‘View in Room’ has been added to the company’s iOS app; customers can use it to preview stock images as virtual artwork on their office or home walls before deciding whether to make the purchase.

The ‘View in Room’ feature can be used with any of the millions of images available on Shutterstock, according to the company, which powers the tool with its own computer vision technology and the iOS ARKit framework. The feature first arrived as a hack to the future employee hackathon project.

According to Shutterstock, a growing number of its customers are purchasing images to use as artwork or decor. The augmented reality feature enables them to preview exactly what the final product would look like on their wall, eliminating the need to visualize it using less precise methods.

The Shutterstock iOS app can be downloaded from the App Store here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One

14 Apr

The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.

It is a known fact that images viewed on computer monitors don’t always match what comes out of inkjet printers. This is because the color pixels captured by digital cameras are defined quite differently than the pixels portrayed on the computer monitor and the monitor’s pixels differ quite significantly from the ink patterns that are literally sprayed onto the paper.

But even though both inkjet printers and printing presses both use CMYK inks, the images printed on inkjet printers usually don’t produce the same appearance when printed in publications. This is quite true, but why?

Color images are displayed differently on each device because the technologies for each medium use different processes; monitors (left), inkjet (middle), and halftones (right).

The answer to this mystery eludes many of today’s magazine publishers and even many publication printers. This is a problem that the digital imaging community (photographers, image editors, and pre-press operators) have struggled with for decades. Color Management Professionals (CMPs) undergo rigorous color science studies to understand how to maintain the same look in color images that are reproduced on different substrates and a variety of printing processes. Since you may want to produce your images in print, we’ll look at a synopsis of what the challenges are and some surefire ways to produce the results you’re looking for.

First and foremost, cameras and monitors capture and project color images as RGB light but all ink-based printers must convert these RGB colors into CMYK colors behind the scene! Even though you send RGB files to your inkjet printer, the printer doesn’t rely on RGB inks to produce all the colors in the prints. RGB colors are for projecting colors while CMYK colors are used to print colors.

Projected colors are always viewed in RGB while printed colors are always produced from some formulation of CMYK inks. That’s simply how color science works. Printers don’t print the RGB colors directly. While you send RGB images to your inkjet printer, it converts those colors into some form of CMYK during the printing process. Even when you send an RGB file to your eight-color printer, the base CMYK colors are augmented by slight amounts of Photo Cyan, Photo Magenta, Red, and Green colors. However, there has been one printer (the Oce´ LightJet) that produced color prints from RGB, but it didn’t use printing inks… it was a photographic printer that exposed photographic paper and film using RGB light. This printer is no longer manufactured.

Each printing process utilizes a unique pattern to express the variable tones between solid and white.

Viva le difference

The inkjet printing process is completely different from the print reproduction process. As a matter of fact, the two systems are overtly dissimilar. If your images are headed for print and you are not sure of which printing process will be utilized, you might be headed for trouble. Here’s why.

The possible surfaces for inkjet printing vary wildly and include everything from paper to wood, from metal to fabric, and on virtually every surface and texture in-between. To accommodate this range of printing applications, inkjet “inks” are liquid rather than solid, so they can be applied to varied surfaces and substrates.

Dots versus spots. The peanut butter consistency of press inks and the well-defined shapes of the halftone dots used by the printing industry differ significantly from the liquid inks and less defined “micro-dot” dithering used by the inkjet printing process.

The color spots produced by inkjet printing systems may include more than a dozen colors and are liquid to accommodate almost any surface. Printing press dots are well-defined symmetrical shapes and are much thicker consistency to accommodate the high-speed transfer to paper. Both inks are translucent because they must blend to create other colors.

The extremely small inkjet droplets appear more like a mist than a defined pattern; each pixel value (0-255) creating a metered amount of microscopic spots so small that the human eye perceives them as continuous tones. Due to the smoothness of the tones and graduations of color, inkjet images require a bit of sharpening to deliver detail (detail remember is a product of contrast, and contrast is not a natural inkjet strength).

Dot structure of halftone images (left) and color dither pattern (right).

Both the inkjet and publication systems convert the RGB (red, green, and blue) values of each pixel into equivalent CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) values before printing those colors onto paper. However, after the color conversion, the two processes take decidedly different paths to deliver ink on paper.

While printing presses use grid-based, well-defined dots that are impressed into paper surfaces, inkjet printers utilize micro-dot patterns sprayed onto surfaces. The same image may appear in several different forms during the reproduction process. Original image (far left), digital pixel (near left), printed halftone (near right) and Inkjet dither (far right)

Publications use the geometric structure of halftone dots to interpret pixel values as tonal values on paper surfaces. Each pixel produces up to four overprinted color halftone dots. These halftones dots translate darker values of each color into large dots and lighter values into smaller dots. The full range of darkest-to-lightest tones produce dots that vary in size depending on the press and paper being printed.

To avoid the visually annoying conflict that occurs when geometric grids collide (called a moire pattern), each CMYK grid pattern is set on a very carefully calculated angle. The positive advantage that inkjet images have over halftone images is that the image resolution required for inkjet prints is significantly less than the resolution required by the halftone process employed by publication images.

However, the most important issues to address with print have to do with color fidelity and tonal reproduction. The difference in the way inkjet images and publication images are prepared makes a huge difference in the way the images appear when they come out the delivery end of the process.

Inkjet printers are like ballet dancers while printing presses are more like Sumo wrestlers; not unlike chamber music versus thunder roll. One is quiet, graceful and articulate, the other noisy, violent and powerful.

The biggest difference between the two processes can be seen in the highlight and shadow areas. Inkjet inks are sprayed onto substrates through a very controlled matrix of 720-1440 spots per inch using a slow and measured inches-per-minute process. Publication presses smash ink into the paper under extreme pressure, at speeds measured in images-per-minute, translating the entire tonal range into a limited geometric matrix of just 150 variable-size dots per inch. Publication presses are huge, high-speed, rotary rubber stamps.

Inkjet printers carefully step the paper through the machine in an extremely precise manner while the printing press shows no such restraint. Presses display an amazing ability to control the placement and transfer of images in spite of the blazing speed of the process.

You might be able to dress a Hippopotamus in a tutu, but you can’t expect it to pirouette. There are simply physical limitations. At production speeds, the shadow details suffer, delicate highlights tend to drop-off rather abruptly, and the middle tones print darker. The printing industry is aware of this dot gain issues and compensates for them with G7 process controls and compensation plate curves, but the beast remains a beast.

There’s a pretty good chance that both color and tonal detail will be unwittingly lost in the printing process if nominally prepared images are sent to press. Having spent many years of my career in both photo labs and the pressroom, I can assure you that detail in both the lightest portions and darkest areas (and placement of the middle tones) will need special attention to transfer all the detail on the press. Highlights get flattened, and shadows get closed more easily because of the high speeds and extreme pressures involved.

This means that images destined for print must exhibit more internal contrast in the quarter tones (between middle tones and highlights) and three-quarter tones (between middle tones and shadows as well as a slight adjustment to the middle tones to reproduce at their best. I’m sure I will hear some disagreement about this from some publishers, but as a former pressman, I know that images that do not get some special attention usually print somewhat flat.

The image on the left might look good as a print, but it would reproduce poorly on a press. The shadow areas would get even darker and lose all detail. The image on the right will darken slightly in the lower tones producing an excellent result in print. White balance is also critical in publication printing. Compensating for the unavoidable effects of the press always pays off.

There is a cardinal rule in printed publications that states that even areas of the whitest whites and darkest darks must contain dots. The only “paper white” should be specular (light reflecting from glass or chrome) and even pure black doesn’t print solid black; everything contains dots. Unlike inkjet printers, printing presses cannot hold (or print) dots smaller than 2-3% value (247). Dots smaller than this never make it onto the paper. This is why additional internal contrast is needed on both ends of the tonal range.

Photographers certainly know their way around cameras and software (Lightroom or Photoshop), and they understand color and tonality as it relates to mechanical prints. They are also accustomed to references to RGB (red, green, and blue) colors and may even understand how inkjet printers work, but very few are familiar with the behavior and limitations of huge printing presses. The analogy of ballet dancers versus Sumo wrestlers is an accurate one.

Photographers understand fine art prints and image editing software though few see their photos through the eyes of pressmen. But perhaps they should!

There is a significant difference between preparing photos for inkjet printers and preparing images for publication presses. The publication RGB-vs-CMYK conversion thing differs significantly from inkjet conversion in color gamut, image saturation, and tonal reproduction.

When an image is captured, it can potentially possess more than 4000 tones per (RGB) color. That’s a whole bunch of possible colors. But the sobering factor is that all printing processes reduce those possible 4000 tones down to a mere 256 tones per RGB color before any ink hits the paper. Obviously, the post-processing tone and color shaping of camera images are super-critical! Simply put, how the photographer shapes all that data before it is ready for print determines how much detail and clarity will get printed on the pages of the magazine.

Once again, the top picture would print great on an inkjet printer but would lose very critical detail on a press. Compensation for the unavoidable effects of the press is always advised. In Part 2 of this series, I’ll show you exactly what adjustments were made to this photo. Additional sharpening also helps compensate for the slight blurriness of the halftone process.

The old adage “start with the end in mind” comes clearly into focus here. No matter how much data is captured by the digital camera, the publication press is the ultimate arbiter of tones and colors, and deserves the loudest voice in the conversation. The color gamut of CMYK conversion is even more restricted than the basic sRGB gamut of Internet images, making this post-processing exercise perhaps the most precarious scenario of them all. If you ignore the special attention needed for magazine images, don’t expect the images to pop off the page. Ignore the press’s advice, and you’ll pay the price in both detail and color reproduction.

In the follow-up article entitled “Preparing Images for Publication Part 2,” I’ll reveal the literal “trade secrets” for producing great publication images.

 

Preparing Images for Publication - Part one

The post How to Prepare Images For Publication – Part One appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Herb Paynter.


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Leaked images: A detailed look at the unreleased Zeiss Otus 100mm F1.4 lens

11 Apr

It’s not official yet, but it appears Zeiss will soon announce the Otus 100mm F1.4 lens for Canon EF and Nikon F mounts, making it the longest focal length in the Otus lineup. DPReview has obtained leaked images, with permission, from Nokishita showing in detail the impending manual lens and its accompanying specifications from Zeiss.

According to the leaked technical sheets (that appear to come directly from Zeiss), the lens will feature an Apo Sonnar design with 14 optical elements in 11 groups including one aspherical element placed at the very back of the lens and multiple ‘special glass’ elements throughout. It will feature an aperture range of F1.4 – F16, have a minimum focusing distance of 100cm / 39.37in and weighs in at 1336g / 2.95lbs for the Nikon F version and 1405g / 3.10lbs for the Canon EF version.

The lens features a nearly identical design to Zeiss’ three other Otus lenses — the 28mm F1.4, 55mm F1.4 and 85mm F1.4 — and features the same 86mm front filter thread as the other three to negate the need of stepping rings for filters and accessories. Below is a full gallery of product shots of the unreleased lens:

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Being the lens isn’t yet official there’s no detail on availability or pricing, but based on the $ 4,990 price tag for Zeiss’ other Otus lenses, it’s a safe bet the 100mm F1.4 will end up around the $ 5,000 mark.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Photograph Against the Sun for Stunning Images

08 Apr

The post How to Photograph Against the Sun for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

As a beginner in photography, you’ll likely be taught to keep the sun behind you. That’s because you’ll have several problems when you photograph against the sun. These problems are related. They’re an overblown sky, and a poorly lit main subject. That’s a recipe for a poor quality photo. As you learn how to better use the light, you’ll learn there are plenty of times you want the sun in front of you. In this article, you’ll learn all about the techniques needed to make stunning images when you photograph against the sun.

This photo is taken towards the sun not long after sunrise. The sun is lighting up the muhly grass through flare.

Flare

One of the effects you may well see when photographing against the sun is flare. This is sometimes described as the effect seen when a plant such as a reed is lit up by the sun shining on the plant. In the case of a reed, they have a delicate head in the summer which picks up the sunlight. As the head is delicate, it won’t block the sun completely, but is instead brighter and also not silhouetted. In photography, there are a couple of other effects caused by flare that can be used by photographers.

Flare effect on a camera

Unless your photographing a sunset or sunrise, directly pointing your camera at the sun is something you’ll want to avoid. Instead, aim to use an object within the frame to obscure the sun. Alternatively, you can aim towards the sun, but keep the sun just out of frame.

Doing this will result in two effects: You’ll see that your whole frame has a sunlight “glow,” or it’s highly likely you’ll also see a rainbow-like line that consists of arcs of light progressing across your frame. Both of these effects can be used to your advantage to create a more artistic-looking photo. Should you wish to avoid this altogether, using a lens hood helps. You might also try holding your hand above the lens to block sunlight shining onto the lens.

There is a glow to this image caused by flare. You can see this coming into the frame from the top left.

Starburst

The starburst effect is technically another aspect of lens flare. It’s a more desirable effect though, and you have more control over how this effect occurs.

To achieve a starburst effect:

  1. Compose your photo, and aim towards the sun. The time of day isn’t that important, but it’s easier to control this effect during golden hour and into sunset or from sunrise.
  2. You’ll want to obscure the majority of the sun, but allow just the edge of the sun to be shining through. Too little and the starburst won’t be noteworthy. Too much of the sun, and it will overpower your frame. Placing the sun behind the leaves of a tree is an ideal solution here.
  3. This effect is caused by your lens diaphragm. The number of sunburst spikes is determined by the number of arms your lens diaphragm has. You get one spike per diaphragm. If your lens has an odd number, the number of spikes will be doubled. That means you’ll want to choose your lens accordingly.
  4. This effect occurs when you close down the aperture of your lens. Apertures of f/11 and smaller should produce this effect.
  5. Photographing into the sun is likely to mean your photo produces silhouettes. If you wish to see details in the foreground, you will need to overexpose. The overexposure could be +2 or +3 exposure value.
  6. With a small aperture, and a high exposure value your shutter speed is likely to be low. Either use a tripod or compensate for this slow shutter speed by using a high ISO. The high ISO will increase the shutter speed. Choose a setting that allows you to take the photo handheld.

Closing down the aperture allowed the sun to appear as a starburst in this photo.

Silhouettes

When you photograph against the sun you’ve always got a good chance of producing silhouettes. Getting the best silhouettes takes a little more nuance though. You need to plan your photo and choose the best angle to take that photo from.

  1. The first step is to decide which object you’ll silhouette. Is this a person, or an architectural structure? Perhaps it’s a lone tree in the field.
  2. Which direction will you photograph this object from? Will you need to arrive in the morning or the evening so that the sun is behind this object when you photograph it?
  3. Is there a clear line of sight to the horizon? Or is there a reflective surface behind the silhouette which can be used to photograph the silhouette against it? You’re looking for a bright background that you can silhouette the entire object against.
  4. If you’re silhouetting the object against the sky only, you’ll often need to kneel down to an angle. Getting close to the ground and photographing up towards your silhouette, will mean more of the silhouette is visible. Where the horizon line intersects the silhouette, it will often make the lower half of the object not visible as a silhouette.
  5. Look at the position of the sun in the sky. Is it too intense? Can you hide the sun behind an object? Is it possible to create a starburst effect from the sun?
  6. Silhouettes are black, so of course, the silhouetted portion of your image will be underexposed. Typically, you’ll expose to get the sky correctly exposed within your photo. As the sky is very bright, the rest of your image will be dark and silhouetted.

This was an ideal place to take a silhouette. The person is silhouetted against the sky, and the reflective surface of the water.

Sunsets and sunrises

Of all the things photographers photograph, sunsets, and sunrises are surely the most popular. This time of day fascinates photographers of all levels, and you certainly don’t need to be a photographer to appreciate those colors in the sky. This time of day is also the best time to photograph against the sun. Especially while the sun is close to the horizon, as it won’t overpower your photo with too much light.

So what are you looking for to get the best result?

  • Know the angle – The sun changes position in the sky from winter to summer. Uses resources like suncalc to find out how a change of angle through the course of the year will affect your photo.
  • Check the weather – Overcast days won’t produce a sunset or sunrise! Always check the forecast and try and head out for optimum conditions. You’re not looking for a totally clear day either, 30-50% cloud coverage is nice.
  • Scout the location – Knowing a great location to visit on the day a good sunrise arrives is good. Knowing exactly where the best angle to photograph from within this location is even better.
  • Focal point – Unless the sky is truly epic for your sunset or sunrise, you’ll need a focal point to give your photo interest. A lone tree or building structure is often a great subject. Likewise, a river that gives a reflective surface, and perhaps a leading line will also work well.
  • Filters – Landscape photography where you photograph against the sun often need graduated neutral density filters. Be careful that the sun doe not produce unattractive and unwanted flare when you use these.
  • Post-processing – Post-processing can enhance your images. The use of techniques like digital blending, and graduated filters are important tools.

Sunset and sunrise are always captivating times to take photos against the sun.

Equipment

There are some useful pieces of equipment you can have when photographing against the sun. Depending on the type of photograph you take, you’ll need some or all of this:

  • Lens hood – This is needed to minimize or eliminate the effect of lens flare on your photo.
  • Filters – Using a circular polarizing filter is a good idea for photography in general. Photographing towards the sun means using graduated neutral density filters is also a good idea.
  • Strobes – Should you wish to light up a person or object, when you’re photographing against the sun, using strobes is necessary. Without these, you’ll have silhouetted people or objects. Should you wish to avoid this, additional light will be required.
  • Reflecting disc – This can be used to reflect and direct sunlight onto the person or object you’re photographing. They’re more often used for portraits, and can be used on their own or in conjunction with strobes.

In this photo, an external flash was used to light up the couple.

Digital blending

Digital blending is a post-processing technique that uses luminosity masks to control the light across your photo. This has led to an improvement in the quality of images produced by landscape photographers who photograph against the sun. This is a large topic, so to learn more you should read this article.

In order to get the best results from this technique, you’ll need a tripod and to bracket your images when you take a photo. You’ll then need to spend time learning how to blend so you can produce natural looking and professional results. Learning how to do this will significantly improve the final results of your photos. Keep in mind that there are occasions you won’t need to use this style, and using filters, or producing silhouettes is an alternative to this.

This image used digital blending. The rocks in the foreground were lightened, and the sky darkened.

Show some flare, photograph against the sun!

The sun provides photographers with their main source of light. Knowing how best to use it is vital for the best photos. In this article, you’ve learned how to photograph into the sunlight – a trickier proposition than photographing with the sun behind you.

Do you enjoy photographing towards the sun? Which techniques and ideas do you apply in your photography? Do you have example photos you can share with the community? At digital photography school we’d love to see your images both from the past, and perhaps your future images having read this article.

So now it’s time to get out into the sun, and photograph against the sun!

 

The post How to Photograph Against the Sun for Stunning Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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